New-York tribune. [volume], January 04, 1920, Page 2, Image 44

About New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924

Image provided by: Library of Congress, Washington, DC

                
IV
tf?EW*- YORK TRIBUNE, SUNDAY, JANUARY 4, 1920
I This black velvet
gown trimmed with
ermine is made over
, a slip of silver cloth
Rich Colors
VT 7 OMEN are adopting the
mrmr handsome tea gown as a
? dinner dress for home
wear. So very beautiful
are these tea gowns that in some
cases it is difficult to distinguish
them not only from informal eve
nil? dresses but from formal ones
as well.
There was a time, not far distant,
when? we considered a negligee as a
delicate affair always in pale color?
ings which made it impractical to
wear anywhere bat in one'u own
room. Now most of the models, ex?
cept, those for very intimate wear,
are in the rich dark colorings of the
Orient, in gay, colorful tones of
beautiful brocades and velvets such
as those that are used in the most
dignified gowns and evening wraps.
Tea Gowns Made
Into Evening Dresses
TMFANY women buy these wonder?
ful tea gowns, and with a few
changes here and there convert them
into evening dresses. They are not
quite as expensive as the former and
may be made a little more individual.
This type of garment takes its in?
spiration from the dress of women
in Eastern lands ; most of them are
from the costumes of Japan or those
of/Egypt. Our informal robes,
which make no pretense of being
dresses, are plainly of Japanese
origin. They are selected for their
usefulness, at the same time endeav?
oring to get as much of beauty as
possible along with utility. The
handsome ones, even of these plain
robes, are very expensive, and the
?>''??-'? "? '" '?'?? *" "?.?"??. ?.
of the Orient
best thing to do is make them your?
self. Don't be afraid to practice on
a really beautiful fabric; there is
little chance of failing, because they
are so very simple.
A pretty one which I saw was of
a heavy pink silk. It was lined with
thin white wash silk and there was
an interlining of lightweight flannel.
The garment was perfectly straight
and quite ungirdled, the only trim?
ming being a large rounding collar
of fur.
?A Preference For
Long-Draped Lines
TN THE more imposing negligees
there appears to be a preference
for long draped lines, the garment
usually being cut in one piece with.
the lower portion of the skirt much
narrower than at the hips. In many
cases the draping swathes the ankles,
rather tightly. Even the sleeves, cut
in kimono style, are gradually
shaped so that they lit the arm
Chinese blue crepe is embroidered in contrasting shades of silk
intermingled with, gold and silver threads to form the panel
. '* and sleeves of a blue velvet negligee
1 ? v ?From Gidding
snugly below the elbow and are long ;
some of them coming almost to the
tips of the fingers. -
One new model which I have just
seen has sleeves about four feet
long. Such long sleeves seem very
remarkable for any garment. You
will wonder how the Wearer got her
arms through them. The sleeve
was sewed up the full length just
like any narrow sleeve, but it was
slit at the elbow, allowing the arm
to come through the seam. The rest
of this queer long eleeve hung like !
a streamer. This tea gown was of
black chiffon velvet and was quite
untrimmed, but the long, straight
draping was mpst effective.
Another model of the long draped
type is of ? crushed velvet, dyed
in coral and orange?a remarkably
striking combination. The effect is
obtained in this way: a water dye
and an oil: dye. are put into one
vessel. The fabric is then dipped
into this/ and as the water and oil
will not'mix the cloth comes out in
two tones. The slefves, which are
long and tight, wrinkling on the
arm from the elbow to the wrist,
are made in three sections con?
nected by cording, which goes in
vows about the arm. Weights
start at the bottom of the sleeve
continuo all the Way up it and
down the side seams of the gown
to hold the drapery of the sleeve
in place.
Elaborate Trimming
Is Sometimes Used
'T'HE negligee is one article of
dress'in which we may allow our?
selves much latitude in the matter
of ornamentation, for while some
of these handsome gowns have no
trimming, others are very elaborate?
ly tHnr_ned. One of velvet, made on
exactly the same lines as the one
just described, is lavishly covered
with Chinese stencil work. Another
is trimmed with large eyelets
carrying oixt a design. These, in?
stead of being worked with threads
like the English eyelet embroidery,
.? i->-,-:
^_r- m
Tea gown tf fame colored chiffon velvet faced with
old blue crepe Elizabeth; trimmed with silver lace and white
fur. A long-sleeved tea gown of embroidered silk
are bound with different colored
silks. Still another, of black chiffon
velvet, has Batik work in gold. All
of these robes slip on over the head.
In no dress can art be expressed
in quite the same manner as in the
tea gown, and women are continu?
ally demanding' not only greater
beauty of design, but of colorings
in them. This has brought about
some very interesting methods of
hand dyeing to obtain unusual color
effects. Both velvets and silks are
dyed by dipping a portion of the
material into the desired color and
wringing it tightly with the hands.
The next section of the cloth is
then dipped into another shade and
wrung in the sam? manner, and so I
on to the end of the piece. The
fabric is then hung up so that the
ayes run into each other, making
wonderful shades that vie with the ,
colors of th? rainbow. The efforts
of those who do this work ar? cen?
tered on obtaining uncommon
colors. This they do through the
study of lovely old potteries and
other pieces of art, especially Per?
sian and Indian things. Bronze
. shades are among the favorites, and
some lovely velvets are done in this
tone.
Old Blue Velvet Makes
A Stately Tea Gown
A stately type of tea gown,
shown to-day, is of old blue velvet,
combined with chiffon. It is very
much embroidered; the chiffon being
practically covered with a wondei'
f.ul design of flowers, ducks ?fcd
dragons. Many mellow colors of
silk blend in this embroidery, al?
though at first glance gold and
silver appear to predominate. The
Three of the new head'
dresses that are worn with
tea gowns
?From Gidding
_?^!>^r
embroidery around the reck ana
sleeves is a cross-stitch of gold and
silver threads. The method of put?
ting this garment together is rather
intricate, although the lines appear
simple.
In contraist to these stately robe?
there is the pajama negligee em?
inating from the dress in which the
women of China drink tea. China,
however, furnishes only the basic
idea for these dresse.. When they I
emerge from the hands of our'
American designers they have ac?
quired a frivolous appearance that
is lacking in the Chinese coat and
trousers.
The pajama negilgee is made of
bright colored velvets and si-*?, the
trousers tying in about the ankles
fcith ribbons of silver and gold.
While the splendid tea gowns previ?
ously described are topped fc; a
headdress, these gay little Chinese
costumes are accompanied by jaunty
caps and slippers that match" them.
Many of the caps are small round
affairs with dangling silver tassels.
Deep Cuffs in the
Form of Trousers
J^ NEGLIGEE just imported is o?
dull orange silk crepe embroid?
ered with a very narrow tarnished
gold braid. The lines of the robe
are long and loose, the sleeves in
j this case being flowing and made is
; one with the rest of the dress. At
i the bottom, the gown is drawn is
to dei p cuffs in the form of trousers!
these cuffs are weighted and trio? I
med with the tarnished braid. 1
Another gown which came fro?
Paris at the same time has a d?P
made of tiers of accordion plcst*
flame colored chiffon. The top **
the slip is finished in Empire sty]*
with bands of silver ribbon aero**
the shoulders. From these should*
..traps is swung a lor.g cloak i*
brocaded velvet in the same brip?-? j
tone. The cloak sweeps across W* m
back in cavalier fashion leaving t*J S
frilly chiffon slip to form the ttov I
of the dress. ,**M I