New-York tribune. [volume], April 04, 1920, Image 47

About New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924

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A Season
By Sara Marshall Cookd
Contrary Fashions
THERE is every evidence in
the present season's models
that the Paris designer is in
no way infiuenced by the
teinperature 0f the sea?on for which
'ne designs.
Paris has just passed through a
coaDess winter, with short sleeves !
?nd no collars.* Now a hot summer
tfaeateng, with long sleeves and i
muffling collar?. Is lt genius or j
oontrariety that has brought about
thlt utter dtsregard of seasonable ,
effects? |
In fact, there are many other |
qnastions about present day dress j
which one might think of asking,
tajocg which is, Why should multi
pja carat diamonds be the fashion
when half the world is starving?
And why, at a time when there ts j
not sufficient material to cover the !
bodies ot the peoples of the earth,
should the mills be engaged on cost- j
ry ftbrics of the slowest possfble I
sonstruction? A close and minute j
analyais might explain the seeming i
aoctradictiona, but there ls no time I
tor this if we are to talk of the new j
models.
Taffeta and Lace
Frequently Combined
AMON'Q the clothes for spring and
summer are many suits and
dresses developed in taffeta. Taffeta
and lace, as well as taffeta and
tulle, are frequently combined to
produce the more dressy effects.
?
I.aees of the flnest and rarest
quality are used?another extrava
jance of thia season. These are all
of a flne tulle variety, hand run or
hand embroidered, and ar* moatly in
black, cream or tea color, the two
latter ?hades being used on black
taffeta models, while the black lace
appears ln conjunction with high
colors and white, Black on black
2b never seen, nor ls whita on white.
The prlncipal novelty ia taffeta cire,
1 tsd whita the most exclusive design
en are using this in their original
enations, many copies are of the
ordinary taffeta.
In the plain taffetaa, tate de negre I
tnd navy blue are the favorite >
eolors, while woven novelties are ln I
ehangeabie and shot effects. One'
that is unarual has a chain or warp
ia nraltt-oolors with an occaslonal
thread of black. Thia la woven with
? aolld color filltng thread, thereby
ffrtng ahnoat the effect of a dark
?tft-or-taiaV* rag carpet, but with
fce pattern inftnitely fine, in fact,
ihnort tovirlbla.
The CoBtltest of
TheTfiff^ta Family
THIS varl-colored chain or fiiiing
la ao elaatva that the fabrio must
* stodied befrrra one can really
kawr how the color tone is aehleved.
W ccrane, thia silk ls the most eost>
^7 cf all the taffeta family. Iraajrine
*? art and the difficulty of setttag
^P the chaln in a thousand colors
??d then blotting it out with a black
W brown flllinjr. Nor are these
,a*rv*lertM taftVtas confined to all
w*r patt*:rr.?; they sre also shown
"Itb woven strjpes. The plain and
'**? itrlped patterns are much com
***& in the new aprlng models.
Othtr novelttea are black taffeta
***?? worked fn Engllah embrol
**7 patterns wlfh steel threads and
?I tteel b*ada. fhe embroldery !s
"*? <h*p on tbe nkirt, Hke the pat
*** of old-fashloned nraalin alrtrt
"t** and the dealgns are almost
^?Btlesl, The aame erobroldery ap
'**? on the bell aleerves, Whieh are
l}*We Jon^r than *lbow length.
*- btatrtifril dreas treated ln this
^ haa the sldrt mounted to a low
Jf*Mn? bodiee cot ln a roundlng
;*? ?t the front and alightly point
[J ??er the hipa, all the fullness
^f maased at the rldes In thick
**?*. Thia elrtrfc la suapended
? ferandatlon of aUre* eloth
**1iae a bladi tatle bem *hee?v
Thit model proves that no color
comblnatlon is too startling to
find favor in these days. It is
of navy blue cotton eponge
combined with French blue
voile in black and tchite plaid
ed design, uith roses embroi?
dered in bright colors
injf between the scallops of the em-j
broidered edge, The bodlce, which
la of the taffeta, opena low in *
point at the front, showing the cQvet
foundation. There ia a ruff ?f
tulle acroea the back cf the nedk tat&
flhlrred piecea of tulle fall from the
elbowa of the sleeves Ifke short eoarf
enda.
To picture thrs dreea one need only
hark back to old-fashioned drcsses
made of whito muslin and trimmed
with footlng and to replace these
cotton effecta with black silk, adding
steel beads and steel threada.
Metal Eyeleta That
Repose on Fabric
AN AflTONISHING eyelet trim?
ming obtained without the labor
of embroldering ls made by hammer
Ing metal eyeleta. Into the fabric;
that ls, they are clamped in just
aa they are on leather shoes. It
aeema very strange to see these
metal eyeleta repoaing on taffeta as
well aa on serge and even on organ
dle and fine hatiste.
The onrtglnatoT of thia Idea effect
ed an eoonomy of labor while de
veloplng a real novelty. In addltlon
to brass eyeleta dreasmakera are also
uslng them ln bright colora and
black ensmeled metal.
Wraps, aa a whole, are of the coat
or mantle type, whether for informal
or dreasy wear. Many of the man
tlea are of the dolman form, but not
with fltted backs. They are sllm
and atraight, while the sleeves are
Uttle more than npnrUiro* through
which the arms pass.
I am athowtng to-day a wt?p eut
on theae llnea, It ls dereloped in
Tfo^jy
Wraf of Drapella, a new wool material with ? tettven border.
The body of the coat is dull yellow and the banding is currant
red. Little ffirfs suit consisting of a dress and jacket of cotton
etonge trirnmed unth embroidery and draumwork. The little
French girl tuho utore this had on black slippert and no tteckings
Drapella, a wool material with a
woven border. The body of the coat
is in ochre and the banding is cur
rant red. Thia coat haa a atraight
box body made entirely without
sleeves and la open at each side.
Over thia falla a oape which forma
two aquare etole enda both back and
front Big llnk buttona hold the
side panels together at the bottom,
the only point at which they are at*
tached, Tha round collatvands?wlth
revera.
Sporta Clothee Thett
Refloct tho Heat
A MONO auita and wraps eepeoially
deslgned for outdoor sports wear
are some ln toile clre and in leather.
"Extreme models nro in a gjoasy black
fabric with bright colored raffla and
silk embroiderien. Plaid and striped
patterns in tlie t.oilo cire aro com
blned with plain colors, such as
black and brown, ln aorae of the
models. It must be admltted, how
ever, that these have a rather hot,
cumbersome look for spring and
summer wear. One g?ts the impres
sion also that they will crack under
the heat of the sun and the strara
of summer sporta.
[
In colors there is a pronotmeed
use of red of a wonderful flame or
yellowiflh tone. Erabroideriea in this
ahade are used on bluo Borges. The
next color favorite is green, in all of
the high Jada and emerald toneg.
Ju,?t as there is e surplus of yellow
ln tha red there ia an utter absence
of yellow m the fashionable greens.
Tbey are cool, pure, Jade greens nnd
the deep, clear emerald shadea.
The Goyeat of Haes
For Street Dresses
'TMiE most vivid rolorn are being
iihed in street clothea na well na
in those for indoor wear. Two strik
ing examplea of the use of gay colors
for street dresses appear ln tha
%7 ^S3be
Tk* most vfoid coittrt eppearln
street clothet as well as those
for indoor wear. The dress
rkctched above shows green and
blue striped taffeta combined
with plain navy blue, the latter
being used for the pleated nnder
skirt and slightly fitted bodice
frocks sketehed to-day. The one at 11
&a center of the page is developed <
from navy blue taffeta uaed in con- i
nection with green and black striped
ta&eta. The striped silk forma a
fcunie which ls hung over a very fme
ty pleated blue undarskirt.
The eofar oombtnattons in cotton
frocks are even more strDdng than
thoae in the eilka. It is interesting
to study some of these because cot?
ton dresses will play a very import
ant part ln the fashionable summer
wardrobe, Their use will not be
conflned to the countryg we will wear
them ln town aa well} in fact, al?
most any place where a simple silk
or cloth frock has been worn in
other years.
Bola Patterns and
High Colorings
COME of the latest novelties in cot
tons show a combination of the
6ponge and voile weaves. These are
in bold patterns as well as in high
colorings. One well known house is
ahowing a charming dress developed
ln copper color, beige fend black,
printed nn<! woven in a oonveuHonal
design.
Another instance in which start
ling colors are used in a cotton frock
appeara in the model at the left of
the page, It la of cotton eponge ln
navy bluo combined with French
blue voile in black and white plaided j
deslgn with roses embroidered in!
high colors. The fact that this
model has proved itself a popular
one goea to show that no color com?
bination in too Htartling to find fnvor
t.hc-se Hnys.
The care which a great deslgner?
Cheruit?gives U> chlldren'a clothea
shows u? how important little folks'
Child'a frt>ck dtrvefopetf frvm
erru and blue linen. This little
miss will not loxe her handker
chief, far there are tiny ve$t
pockets in the dress. Ecrv
stockings and black slippcr.i
make the costume very smart
'ashions are beeomtng. Phe makes I
me charming dress with a skirt of,
jctu handk8rchief linen, over which .
'alls a atraight ahort bodice of rob-!
xx'e egg blue. There ia a watch 1
pocket oontaining a cnnning toyi
tfetch and fob. both made of bluei
iaffeta, The watch has a poreelain ]
face but no worka, The neck of the !
ireas is round and the arms are bare
;o half way above the elbow.
Aa for the tailored suits for chil
rjren they are quite those of the
iTande dame. Nothing that goes
with the dress of the grown-up is
lacking, as is evinoed by a little
three-plece costume of blue serge
sketched to-day which haa a gilet j
and collar of embroidered linen as
well aa extending hip pocketa, panels j
and bell-shaped eleevea. The little;
girl who wore Jt had bobbed red hai'
which gleamed from beneath a
panama hat banded with blue rib
bon.
A Youngster'a Suit
In Rough Cotton
T> OUGH cottons of the character of i
eponge and ratine are being used
ln bright colors for youngsters' suite
conslsting of a dress and jacket The
charming model sketched is ln cot?
ton eponge trimmed with embroid
ery and drawnwork. A coquettish
touch la given through the bands of
black tolle clre which bind the gores
of the coat and skirt and trim the
sleevea. A black clre* ribbon threads
the brim of the Breton hat Bare
legs and black slippers give an ap
pearance of decided relaxation to
this otherwise tailored outfit
Little blue serges, as complicated
in design as one can imagine worn
by tha most exactlng women of f ash
Ion, are being adopted for children;
A typical one*haa a cleverly con
Suits for Uttle </drh are qtdte
like th*>se of the grown-wp*.
This one consists o* a dresr and
coat of blue serqe, the coat
having a gilct and collar of em?
broidered linen, as well as hip
extending pockets and bell
shaped sleei es
ceived jacket bodice with pockets anH
trimmings of bright printed foulard.
Lightweight wool frocks are very
suitable for children to wear in cool
days in the early spring, or for the
mountains later in the season. It
hae alwava been difucult to find
pretty wool frocks other than the
Btandsrd blue osrge sallor suits, of
which we sonietimes grow a little
tired, although they are far too prac
tical to ever lose their place in the
front lir.e of the very best clothea
for children.
Cashmere Dresses
In Bright Colors
^HTS need is now fllled by dri-s&es
of casbmere in bright colors,
such as strong ahadea of reds
and blues. Thon ther? are striped
cashmere frocks which are most at?
tractive. One Ib of very dark blue
with a pin stripe of red?a subdued
red that has atint of blue in it. The
dress is made like a regular chemise
frock that slips on over the head.
A heavy cord covered with the mate
rial is placed around the neck at
yoke depth. lt ejetends onto the
shoulders, giving the appearance of
a very shallow yoke.
e
By connecting the stripes with a
chain stitch of red worsted a unique
trimming is achieved. This takes
tha form of a band around the
Bleevcs and stripes down both the
back and front of the frock. There
is no hem in this model, the bottom
of the skirt being whipped with the
red worsted.
As attractive as the dressea are,
the children's hats this season are
even more wonderful. The double
viscr briin hat with stilf dome crown
is much ln evidence, the distinct
feature of ft being the Tommy At
kins chin strap. An adorable model
of this character has a blue straw
brim and a gray taffeta crown with
four hands and an anehorlng Htrap
of black toilo cir?. Thia latter ma
terial, by the way, is practically
nothing more than a hlghly flnished
oilcloth.
For the Children
THE south of Frsnee ia a
Paradise for children. Theri
they play no small part in the
social activitiee. So many
affairs are held out of doors that
youngsters are not out of placo at
the gatherings for grown-ups. This
spring there has been a perfsct ava
lanche of flower ffttes, which means
a heavenly time for the children.
Parents vie with each other in
dresslng their children for theae oe
casions, arranging their little car
riages and poniea to harmonise with
their clothea. Masses of roses form
saddles for Bhetland ponies thal
prance along with their dainty buv
dens, who are objeots of admiration
of the throng that crowds the prom
enades upon these festive occasioii?.
Evarything ls done for charlty.
The promenade ls ropad off and
everybody must pay an admittane*
fee ln addltlon to buying flowers
I with which to pelt the little parad
j ers. Following the cortege there is
j always the goflter, or afternoon tea,
j where the little folks gather to drink
chocolate or strongly sweetened
orangeade.
Sugp/cstions Sent
From tho Riviera
npHE8E fete days are ocoasions for
the beautiful dresslng of chil?
dren, and it ls from this souroe that
a great many of our ehlldren's fash
ions come. Copies of many of the
little hats worn by youngsters diu
ing the aeason on the Riviera ai?
already in this country. Amoi^
them are some lovely little lingen^
hats of organdie and fine batin'?
with hand erabroidery and oth?*r
! forms of decoration.
One of the prettiest llngerle bs
for a little girl is of white organdi
It has a ftneJy pleated brim and the
top of the round crown ls also
pleated. The lower part of th*1
crown is just a straight organdi?
band covered with a desigri in flne
white cotton braid. Narrow blue
satin ribbons roms from the bottoni
of the crows -to tie in a bow on tbe
tin top, from there floatine away m
6lender streamers.
Another Mngerlo model for a
little girl takea the form of an ad
able cap having b close turned
up'brim that is covered with fine
hand embroidery. The strings, h -
stead of tying vnder the chin, fon ?
a bow on the top of the hat, just. a
plain hand of iht ribbon going be
neath the chin.
A Hat For a Wee
Misa In Taffeta
?OECALLINO tha court of tho Louis
ia a hat for a wee mias ln rose,
colored taffeta trirnmed with a pale
blue ostrich head tip and biue brida.
streamers, the )atter weighted with.
a pink rose.
The most practlcal and I think tv <?
: most charming hats for children a
? the large Breton sailora with pleai
ribbon beneath the brim forxr i .
band about the head. thus giving 1
effect of the Bretor. coif. A grea
; many of these hats are of yelloi
: atraw -yith blue ribbons. The color
: combination is charming.
8peaking of color combina*lona *"
: minds me of an adorablo frock for h
: little girl that I saw last week.
? is made from one of the new dot!<
Swiss muBlins, having a French b>
background fecked with bright r<
and cut on chemise lines with aho
kimono sleeves. There ia a f .
panel of red/ cross-bar dimi'
with sash enda attached to either
side *a.d tying ln a puffy bow at the
back.
Small hat of white straw em?
broidered in glossy black straw
and having a black ribb o n
thin ttrnt*