New-York tribune. [volume], September 19, 1920, Page 3, Image 45

About New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924

Image provided by: Library of Congress, Washington, DC

                
w
Gy ?ara Marchall Cooi^
fur
Priceless Pelts
JUDGING by the fur wraps
prepared for this winter, the
good, old-fashioned fur coat
has passed into the discard.
To be really ?mart our fur mantle
Bust be In the form of a cape or
closely resembie a dress or, If a coat
at all, decidedly of the wrappy type.
The fitted sleeve Is seldom seen in
the latter. When there is a sleeve
H is cut as part of the garment,
?ornewbat on the raglan style.
Some of the very newest fur
laments for 1920-'21 are being
made In what is known in Parla as
tije robe mantean style; that is, the
oaat la almost in the form of a dresa.
The leading furriers have taken this
tip, as it were, from the big dress?
makers of Par!??, who are having
remarkable succss with these coat
dresses.
Prom fur to organdie is a far
cry, but in fashion vagaries the
whole gamut 1s often sounded, anei
so the robe manteau is found in
orgar.die and in priceless fur. The
last word In cummer frocks, worn
st the Trouville-Deauville races
was the robo mar.teau in organdie
snd the first fur novelty wrap for
winter is in the re)he mantean style,
Moleskin as Thin
And Pine as Satin
A CHARMING wrap of this char
acter is shown o:j the figure
second from the left at the tup o
this pag?. This mantle is almost a'
exact copy of a dresa :n every line
It is devel iped in moleskins as thi.
aid fino as satin, with trimmir.;
bards of dark Hudson Bay mink
There ':? a muff to match as heauti
fully tailored au if it were of cloth
Another fur coat in the form o
a dress Is shown just at. the left o
the mod', described above. Thi:
too, Jh of moleskin, worked in band
lich f-i.nc horizontal, bias an
ihevron lines. The quaint snu
shoulder cape is new in its slantin
lines.
One of the most interesting dc
velopments In fashions is eeen i
the fur coat of the present day. .
few years ago designers would nc
have thoughl of draping fura in th
?ame way that they Would chiffoi
Very many < f the now fur wraps c
the mar.1.le type show almost price
less pelts arranged in the form <
draped rapes. Following the grei
popularity of silk i.r.r] eerge m*ntl<
nuring the early autumn season
is to be expected that furs mad? :
these stylen will b* equally popula
Both capes and coa's are made
"fern, one falling over the othe
These do not ripple, but wrap ?
drape gracefully about the wear*
rhe Flat H;in<:ring
Back Is Now Decreed
A LL of the new mantles have
very fiat hanging back, whi
eives a square appearance to t
?Iffure, although the front oft
crosses in a diagonal line and wra
the figure snugly. This Is just t
difference between the coats of \i
?inter and those, of 1920-'21?th
indefinable something which mal
?ill the difference between being
the fashion or out of fashion.
Caracul is a fur well suited
these square hanging designs.
lovely new wrap of natura! carai
made in this way has a deep co!
and a straight band of fur arou
the bottom to form a trimrni
There are no slcwes, the ar
?mlng through slits at the Bid
At th? armholes the pointa of 1
^flares are turned hack and h
toned in envelop? effect.
Considerable care was expem
*> the lining of this wrap, wh
14 ef beautiful brown and yell
brocaded silk, with part of the l
Csded design embroidered in yel
breeds, The buttons were sclec
?Hh quite as much attention as \
??en to the lining?an example
toe thought given to every li
<*?*n la the clothe? of to-day. T
*** * ?ray galaJita to blend 1
the soft coloring of the fur, and
arc pear shaped, carved In a beau?
tiful design. t^
Hudson Seal Holds
Its Popularity
ANOTHER gray caracul wrap,
being shown among the newest
models, is made in the form of a
straight cape, but has bands of the
fur placed around the waistline to
I give the effect of two tiers. There
is a deep hanging kolinsky collar
. which really forms a little cape in
I itself.
Hudson seal Is as popular as ever
for general wear. There is much
to recommend it. It is durable and
inexpensive in comparison with
many of the other furs as well as
becoming. The sketch at the lower
left of the page shows a smartly
tailored fur coat developed in Hud
Bon seal. This model has a big cord
; girdle, which pinches it in tightly
? at the waistline. The cuff bands.
shoulder collar and skirt hern show i
the fur worked in bands.
I
For those who do not care for the
all-black coat there is Hudson seal
combined with ether fur. In the
. sketch to-day is shown a tightly
girdled coat of Hudson seal, with a
shoulder cape collar and cutY bands
i of kolinsky.
Lovely Redingotes
Trimmed With Sabio
""pHE fur redingote is seen in a
variety of forms and is being
made in a great many combinations
of furs. Among the more extrava?
gant coats are lovely redingotes
, developed in unborn lamb, trimmed
! with sable. They are in fitted lines
with the exception that the hips
I flare slightly Just where the pocket
openings fall.
Ib th? chcice ?# skins we have
considerable latitude. Almost every
sort of fur is used for the hand*
somest of wraps. It is several sea?
sons since there has been such a
lavish use of moleskin in coats.
There aro wraps of Siberian squir?
rel trimmed with skunk?a durable
old-fashioned fur, which has been
brought into the limelight again
both as a trimming and for small
furs. There are coats, of caracul,
beaver, nutria ? in fact, almost
every fur is used.
Among the almost priceless coats
are those of chinchilla and Russian
sable. Then there is mink?one of
the most popular of thi3 winter's
furs. In addition to being fashion?
able ft is durable?a most desirable
quality considering the present
prices of furs. The placing of the
skins appears to be a very iropor
! tant matter, for in this way new
i and unusual effect? are obtained.
If the wrap is not made in tiers
the skins frequently are placed to
give the effect of tiers.
A wrap created by one of our
American designers is of Eastern
mink in straight cape effect, with
two bands of the fur set below the
collar to give the effect of three
capes graduating in size, the collar
forming the first. The skins are
arranged horizontally on either side
of the front and around the collar
to make a trimming band. There
are no sleeves, merely slits through
which the arms pass. It is lined
wtth a beautiful Mack and gold
bsocaded silk.
A Mink Wrap Like
A Traveling Coat
ANOTHER mink wrap, in one
piece cape effect, has the skins
placed to give the effect of stripes
running around both the collar and
body portion. Trimming bands of
the fur are on either side of the
front and hang in wide loops, which
are arranged at the waist?ine so that
they may be used aa a muff.
Like an oldtime English travel?
ing coat, with little shoulder capes
forming the sleeves, is another mink
wrap. The body is in cape form,
with a ten-inch trimming border
achieved by placing the skins diag?
onally. On this- model the collar is
really small, not more than six
inches wide in the back and becom?
ing gradually narrower in the front
until it disappears at the waist?
line. A striking taupe and. tan
striped satin hand embroidered in
black and gold forms the lining.
Among the evening wraps are
; some new and beautiful models of
ermine. A particularly interesting
one shows a straight cape of the
fur hanging almost to the wa?sthine
in the form of a deep yoke, with &
choker collar. The remainder of
the wrap is white satin, closely
banded with ermine. The designer's
idea in making it after this fashion
was to produee a cloak that would
hang in softer lines than the ordi?
nary fur wrap.
An exquisite shade of Chinese
yellow satin, veiled with pale rose
chiffon, ?a used to line it. .The lining
is trimmed around the bottom with
a narrow band of the ermine and a
ruffle of the rose chiffon. A Rus?
sian sable, made in strips oa the
order of the ermine cape just de?
scribed, has a cape collar in place
of the high collar.
An, unusual evening wrap of er?
mine, with small raglan sleeves, has
cuffs and a collar of Hudson BaJ
sable. The skins are not cut. Th<
whole skin is placed about the wrist
Two animals, one placed above th<
other, are used to make the higl
collar, the tails hanging over th<
shoulder.
Upper roxv left to right?Fur coat made in the form of a dress. It is of moleskin worked in bands which shoxv horizontal,
bias and chevron lines. The slanting lines of the shoulder cape are netv. Tur mantle of moleskin with trimming bands
of dark Hudson Bay mink. Tightly girdled coat of Hudson seal with cape collar and cat} bands of kolinsky. Lower row
left to right?Coat of Hudson seal which has a big cord girdle pinching it in tightly at the waistline. The cuffs, shoulder
cottar and skirt hem show the fur worked in bands. F?r redingote of baby lamb trimmed with sable. Fur wrap of the
mantle type developed in mink and trimmed with kolinsky
> -
Crowning Plumes
THE most striking feature
of the new fall hats is the
profuse use of feathers?
For about six years the
French have been working on imi?
tations of aigrette to be substituted
for the real feathers on hata ex?
ported to America. On July 1, 1913,
the United States government ruled
against the importation of the
feathers of certain birds, among
them heron and paradise.
Aigrette plays an important part
on many of the French hats. As
the American buyers cannot con?
sider models with this trimming, the
French set to work to make an imi?
tation. The imitation of aigrette,
which is ealled in this country
burnt goose, is so realistic that it
is difficult In some cases to distin?
guish it from the original. It is
used in many different ways, stand?
ing straight up about the brims of
hats, bent in loops, or made into
long flowing ornaments that sweep
away from either side of the hat.
8uranne Telbot has Just completed
a small turban of black panne vel?
vet, with a brim turned up closely
all around. Across the front are
spraye of burnt goose, sweeping
down almost to the wearer's shoul?
ders. Feathers that trail in an
exaggerated fashion furnish one of
the newest methods of trimming. On
some hata they are at least twelve
inches long and look like huge in?
verted question marks.
Ostrich Plumes in
Delicate Spirals
A PROFUSION of ostrich is seen
on hats for afternoon and eve
? ning wear. It forms entire brims as
i well as Innumerable kinds of orne
? mentation. To speak of ostrich
feather trimmings brings a vision
of the old-fashioned trailing plumes
that weighted the hata of our grand?
mothers' days. The modern ostrich
trimming, however, in no way re?
sembles these oldtlme garnitures.
It is made Into delicate spirals, bent
to form all sorts of Interesting orna?
ments and bands, as well as lovely
lacy brims.
I
Elaine, of Paris, makes a small
I hat of brown panne velvet, with ?
slightly mushroom brim, and place*
little spiral ornaments of ostrich
completely around the upper brim
and one beneath the brim on either
side, to give an Egyptian effect.
Lace is used more profusely than
I ever. Hats are made entirely of it.
Ever so many of the beat models
show the draped lace veil as part
of the hat itself. This is not a new
fashion, as hata of this type were
shown all last year, but they did
' not attain any degree of popularity.
This year there seems to be a great
demand for them.
The Turban Is Seen
In Many Variations
T^OR general wear the small he
prevails. Many variation? o:
| the turban are seen. The turbai
] is never really out of fashion
I Something closely akin to it alway
? remains in millinery. The infiuenc
of the Far East on recent fashion
has given prominence to the turbar
I
j Many of the smaller hats ar
. draped and soms of the velvet one
are chirred. Medium sized hat
! show brims turned down after th
| manner of tho always becomin
i mushroom Ehape.
f
For country wear there are sma
hats of bright colored oilcloth
j We have had oilcloth hata in plai
! colorings, but these show a gay cor
: bination of a number of differei
: hues in one hat. These are usual
small, with close fitting upturne
! brims.
( Small hats of short haired fu
are being prepared for early winte
Fur and ribbon are frequently coi
?j bined. Usually brocade?! or metal
j ribbons are used. Quantities of r
; bons of all widths are seen, not oi
j in conjunction with furs or veh
[ but to make entire hats.