New-York tribune. [volume], September 19, 1920, Page 5, Image 47

About New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924

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The Difference Between Evaporated and Condensed Milks
e
Evaporated Milks as ?They Come
From the Can Have Twice the
"Solids" of Raw Milk
a N EVAPORATED milk is
A merely a whole, pure milk
* from which a part of the
--te bat been evaporated by heat,
M&ening it so that it is just about
?te ?a thick as liquid milk and has
w twice as moch fat in it. Noth- j
M is added, nothing is taken away ;
gjjpt water, and the only other I
?fer?nees between the evaporated
oi the raw milks are the effects on '
Mb and on vitamine value, pro- i
^ by the heating.
<rn? condensed milks (which will :
u sported on later) differ from the !
^porsted in that a large amount I
?cane sugar is added to them?40 !
B 48 per cent in the finished prod- !
*t?giving them an added value for :
?a* purposes in cooking, but mak- '
m them, In our opinion, an unsuit- ;
Ale food for any normal child, and i
jlrtly preserving: the milk in sugar |
so that it need not be so completely
sterilized as the evaporated.
The advice that evaporated milk
can be diluted with boiling water
according to the size and age ef
child and used for infant feeding
should be taken only with precau?
tions. We know that even pasteur?
ized milk must be supplemented
with orange juice to afford a satis?
factory infant food, that the life of
the milk, its enzyme-and its vitamine
value, is partially destroyed by this
heating. Two tests were made on
these milks and one gave a positive
and one a negative answer as to the
enzyme value. The ferments thua
affected are helpful in digestion and
assimilation, and an authority like
Dr. Rosenau says that evaporated
milks should never be fed to a child
without the advice of a physician
On the other hand, they are sterile
free from bacteria, and may be pre
ferred to an uncertain milk snppl}
when traveling, or in special cases.
pected demanda. It fa a short-1
sighted housekeeper, one who "hunts
for trouble and finds it," who does
not keep half ? dozen cans of evap?
orated milk on her pantry shelf for
special uses and emergencies.,
From the morning coffee to the
dinner dessert?for all sorts of cook?
ing, be it candy, cake or vegetables
?or for thickening the canned
soups, especially the tomato and the
clam chowder and the chicken broth
?these milks will be found indispen?
sable. And whether you are one of
those who like its distinctive taste
in coffee and on cereal or not, we
defy any one to detect it in the
cooked dishes that Miss Stanley de?
scribes as prepared in the Institute
kitchen. Here it is absolutely as
good as raw milk in every way and
? e?
superior in convenience, richness and
in certain cleanliness and freedom
from bacteria. It is just as indispens?
able to the modern housekeeper as to
the camper?it neveT "strikes" or
?ours. A. L. P.
How to Cook With Canned Milks
THE evaporated milks come to
the rescue night and day. No
chance guest can disconcert
you if this versatile liquid, which
can be transformed into everything
from soups to pies and ice creams,
I to say nothing of cakes and biscuits
of all sorts, is on hand. If the vege?
table and fruit are "miracles of the
can," even more so is the evaporated
milk. Such a delicate product as
milk requires careful and scientific
handling, and we are indeed debtors
to the master mind that applied the
process of sterilization and evapora?
tion to this perishable.
In Your Coffee
We opened a can of each of the
listed evaporated milks and tested
them out in various ways. Each
one was tasted in coffee, and it wai
really surprising the slight flavor
it gave. When used undiluted it
is scarcely to be told from cream
except for a slight characteristic
odor. We used one tablespoon of
milk undiluted to the cup. It gave
i a very pleasing golden color to the
beverage, entirely different from
the gray tinge imparted by ordi?
nary milk. With the price of cream
so high this offers ? splendid sub?
stitute at a very small cost. One
j pound can of the milk contains two
j cups, and when diluted with one
j part water you have a fine milk at
| the rate of 18 cents a quart. There
? fore, the convenience and keeping
! qualities cost virtually nothing, as
j compared with winter milk.
Cocoa made with these milks is
j excellent. They give a richness and
, smoothness that is not obtained with
fresh milk. The slight evaporated
taste, of course, is entirely obscured
by the chocolate flavor. We diluted
the milk with one part water for
the cocoa, and made it the same as
though cream or fresh milk were
used. Sugar, of course, was added.
Sonps and Spaghetti
Creamed soups have a quality
when made with these milks also
that is not possible to attain with
ordinary milk. We made cream of
tomato soup a few days ago, using
i canned soup and evaporated milk
j as the basis. We heated the soup
I to the boiling point, and then added
an equal part of liquid, which con?
tained one part of the milk, the
other water, and a very delicious
dish resulted.
Some creamed spaghetti, as well
i as creamed potatoes, was included
in our lasting tests. The cream
sauce for the spaghetti was made by
browning two tablespoons of flour
and blending with two of butter.
One cup of liquid (half evaporated
milk and water) was heated to the
I boiling point and the flour mixture
added together with one-fourth cup
, of tomato sonp and seasonings. This
j was poured over the spaghetti and
! served. It gave a very rich dish,
j with a slight sweet taste which was
! very pleasing. Grated cheese over
j the top is an improvement, of
! course, to any starchy food of this
sort.
j The creamed potatoes were made
in the same manner as when using
fresh milk, the dilution being half
and half.
Quick baking powder biscuits
Standardizing Two
Variables?Milk and Man
OVER no standard established
has there been a wider differ?
ence of opinion among ex?
pert? than on evaporated and con
jiMed milk. Milk is always a trouble
ipot in the food world because it is
H important a food; because it is
?led by children and fed to them in
their defenseless and growing years,
then the nature of their food means
building their bodies right or wrong
la a lifetime ; because it is so per
lihable and difficult to handle; and
because nature herself varies the
jiw material so greatly that it is
bird to standardize it.
Dilution of Evaporated Milk
A Holstein cow will give a milk
with 3 per cent of fat and 11 per
cent of solids ar.d be doing well, and
Ae milk ?9 unadulterated. A Jersey
:ow averages nearly 6 per cent of
fit So if you make a standard that
Il fair to the Holstein, the Jersey's
ailk can be adulterated with water
n partly skimmed and etill have a
Itgal amount of fat. The standard
?mmittees had their troubles when
?hey tried to say just how much
!it and how much total milk solids
should be in a can of evaporated
ailk, but finally 7.8 per cent of fat
wd 25.5 per cent of solids were
ierided upon, though all agree
that this is low for much of the
ailk as bought, and 8 per cent of
fit and 28 per cent of solids are
?tarer the average.
The claim that when an equal
?mount of water is added to the
an you get a legal, whole milk is
tni? in every case of the approved
milks listed on this page; you get
a milk with about 4 per cent of fat
and 13 per cent of solids, a little
better than standard raw milk.
When it comes to price you pay
from 15 to 20 cents for a pound,
or one pint, of the evaporated milk,
or at the average rate of 17.5 cents
a quart when diluted. This, consid?
ering that expense of manufactur?
ing and the container are added to
the raw milk, is seen to give you a
good, wholesome, constantly availa?
ble product without any appreciable
tax for the greater convenience.
The statement that these milks
are reduced to the consistency of
cream of course alludes to their
thickness only, not to their fat con?
tent, which does not approach that
of cream even before dilution. The
total solids are about the same as
in a light cream.
All of the evaporated milks
examined were of good compositions,
containing about 8 per cent of fat
and 27 per cent of solids, instead
of the 7.8 per cent and the 25.5 per
cent of solids legally required, thus
slightly exceeding the standards
and proving that they were made
from standard milk and evaporated
slightly more than is demanded by
law.
Always There?Doesn't Sour
"The milk hasnt come!" is a dire?
ful sound in the morning?almost as
discouraging as the non-appearance
of the cook?and it may happen
to the best of us in case of storms
or accident. And milk delivered may
sour or' "run short" under unex
JF the cat sp?ls the cream,
* or the thunder turns the
milk sour, or the milkman
docs not come till noon, it
matters not to the woman
with plenty of evaporated
milk on her pantry shelf
? ? I I ? ? - ? ?
Seven Pedigreed Pantry
Plan of Work
These products hare been sub?
jected to a chemical test and shown
to be of excellent quality, ac?
curately labeled and free from adul?
teration. Cooking tests in the Insti?
tute laboratory have been made to
determine their edibility and adap?
tation to special uses.
The results obtained are reported
in part on this page, and any fur?
ther information desired may be
obtained ?by application to the In?
stitute. Anne Lewis Pierce,
Director, Tribune Institute
Cows Tested
Armour & Co., Chicago
Armour's Veribest Evaporated Milk,
Unsweetened
Borden's Condensed Milk Com?
pany, New York City
Borden's Evaporated, Unsweetened,
Sterilized Milk, Peerless Brand
Carnation Milk Products Com?
pany, Chicago and Seattle
Carnation Brand Sterilized Evap?
orated Milk
Libby, McNeil & Libby, Chicago
Libby's Sterilized, Unsweetened,
Evaporated Milk
and Approved
Nestle's Food Company,
New York City
Every Day Brand Evaporated Milk
Sheffield Condensed Milk Com?
pany, New York City
Sheffield Sealect Brand Evaporated
Milk, Unsweetened
The Van Camp Packing Com?
pany, Indianapolis, Ind.
Van Camp's Evaporated, Sterilized,
Unsweetened Milk
? -
Nothing Is Added to an Evaporated
Milk and Nothing Is Sub?
tracted but Water
reach the acme of perfection when I
:hese milks are used as the liquid. :
We made some from Presto and the
?vaporated milk diluted with one
part wateg. No trace of the flavor
was evident and the crumb was ten?
der and rich. The second day some
were toasted and were declared to
Laste almost like pastry.
Breads and Puddings
Evaporated milks can play the
r?le of fresh milk in the culinary '
world with only one or two excep
tions: they do not sour and they can
not be made into junket. Aside j
from this, they supplant regular;
milk in a most satisfactory way !
and have a creamy texture and
more fat than the best of milk when
used undiluted.
Ice creams and chocolate or cara?
mel custards, cakes, candies and
puddings, especially those made with
a distinctive flavor, such as molasses,
spices and corn meal, are exception?
ally good. They seem to give a
smoothness and richness that is
very desirable.
Here are a few specially excellent
recipes in which these milks can be
incorporated with very satisfactory
results:
Graham Potato Scones
Mash six medium sired potatoes.
Add one pint of graham flour, one
egg well beaten with one cup of
evaporated milk diluted one-half.
Add one pint of graham flour, one
teaspoon of salt and two teaspoons
of baking powder. Mix into a firm
dough. Roil to one-half inch thick?
ness ; cut with a sharp knife into ob?
long pieces about three inches long
and fry in deep fat. Eat with but?
ter.
Date Dumplings
Combine two cups of sifted flour
and two teaspoons of baking powder
and one-half teaspoon of salt with
one cup of evaporated milk diluted
one-half. Add one cup of choppeel
dates and one well beaten egg. Drop
by spoonsful on buttered dish and
cook in a steamer over a hot water.
Serve with rich sauce of any kind.
Whole Wheat Nut Bread
Beat two eggs and one-half cup of
sugar together. Add one teaspoon
of salt and evaporated milk, diluted
one-half. Add two cups of whole
wheat flour and one cup of white
flour which has been sifted with
four teaspoons of baking powder.
Add one cup of chopped nuts and
one cup of chopped dates. Allow to
stand for twenty-five minutes and
then bake for forty minutes in a
moderate oven. This is very good,
especially for children's luncheons,
wholesomely taking the place of
cake.
In all of the following recipes
use the evaporated milk, adding one
part of water to give a 4 per cent of
fat milk for cooking and then meas?
uring as directed:
Chocolate Mousse
Add two sqruares of chocolate and
one-fourth stick of cinnamon to twn
cups of milk, together with one cop
of sugar and a few grains of salt
Cool and add one cup of whipped
cream. Pour into a mold, seal and
pack in ice and salt for four hours.
Peppermint Ice Cream
Scald two cups of milk with an?
cup of sugar. Add two cups of
cream, one tablespoonful of vanilla
and one-half pound of peppermint
stick candy which has been reduced
to a powder. Freeze as usuaL
Hard Brown Sugar Sanee
Cream one-half cup of butter with
one cup of brown sugar. Add four
tablespoonsful of milk, drop by drop,
to prevent separation. Add one tea
spoonful of vanilla.
Baked Almond Pudding '
Pour one cup of scalded milk over
five lady fingers and the same num?
ber of macaroons. Add one tea
spoonful of vanilla, one-half cup of
sugar, one-half cup of chopped
almonds and the yolks of three eggs
(well beaten). Combine? with the
stiffly beaten whites and pour over.
Bake until brown.
Danish Waffles
Beat one-half cup of butter with
one cup of sugar until creamy. Add
the yolks of three eggs, about three
<"ups of flour and one pint of milk.
Lastly, the egg whites beaten stiff,
with a little salt. Bake in waffle
irons, dust each with powdered
sugar, and serve with jam or pra
crves.
Prune Patties
Combine one-half cup of mashed
prunes with a pinch of salt, nutmeg
and sugar to taste. Add one egg
yolk, one tcaspoonful of flour and
one-half cup of milk. Bake in pastry
shells and cover with a meringue.
Squaeh Pie
Mix three cups of scalded milk
with two cups of strained squash,
one cup of sugar, one teaspoonful of
salt and one teaspoonful of cinna?
mon. Add one-fourth teaspoonful
of ginger and beat well. Add two
well beaten eggs and pour into a
deep pie pan lined with pastry.
Anna Stanley.
(Tested and endorsed by The Tribvmt
Institute.)
PURE
H & H Honey comes fresh
from the fields untouched
by hands. Delicious with
cold meats. Ask your
Grocer for H & H Honey.
You'll like it.
HOFFMAN & HAUCK
Woodhaven, N. Y.
SSHHSfflffiEB
Liver S&asagB
A fin? eoM fosdb nuit, ?%.
padaBy good m santfwfeltas.
Spread it ?a bread Ok? bat?
tae. Gobefa Liver Saaaag*
bm ja* the right spkfeg
tad U made f mm good amt
to model, uuxr
At food food
see
?
Everything the human
body needs for work or
-day it in the whole
wheat
Shredded
Wheat
It the whole wheat, noth?
ing added, nothing
thrown away. It is only
made more digestible by
steam-cooking, shredding
and baking.
A Perfect Ration
A "Universal," Petite Parlormaid, Quiet and Efficient
Tested and Endorsed by The Tribune Institute
The Tools With the
Vacuum Cleaner Are
Meant To Be Used
IT 18 jetting to be ?me to settle
the house for winter, change
"ipi and hangings, and the
JWmn gweeper is one of the best
jrttlers" we have when this time
?fmr comes nmnd again.
Alleged Neglect of Tools
??7 do say that women will not
??the tools of the vacuum cleaner.
?* they use the machine, sweep
**Mhion, for floor work but for
i*&n* ehe. This seems hard to
| UtUdand endorsed by The Tribune
Institute.)
^EE TRIAL OFFER
?SSELL N
! E ' e c t r i c
?uction Cleaner
** Powertnl tad Kltlclent Mad?
?Weh. n"r':>' ?u:Je ,lle feather
??nn a ni? ' ' *? ,ou'-'h of ???
"?*? llfhtly on rubber wheels.
*o Urltly SUk-UIus to I'ueh
^ nuoUE.??d b? T,r,bUM *nd
fsrcox,
57 West 35th St.
*?k ?.*! F'TZROY 3873
^?r ts? Bn.ell Moior Co., Toledo, 0.
believe?and U true it should be
changed, for the tools, light to
handle and especially adapted to
cleaning hangings and upholstered
furniture, mattresses, high-up mold?
ing? and cornices, radiators and all
sorts of inaccessible places, are one
I of the vacuum cleaner's leading
I claims to attention.
Women will often work longer
and more laboriously rather than
adjust a machine, but there is no
j excuse for dreading the adjustment
; of the extra tools on the Universal,
; for the little name plate in the noz
1 zle roof is pushed aside, the highly
polished nickel plug on the hose is
j inserted in the oval opening and
j makes a direct, tight connection
i with the suction. There ia a spring
that may be attached to the nickel
sleeve of the hose and hooked up
. over the button Been on the top of
' the fan housing. This is not neces?
sary, but prevents any possibility
of the hose pulling out as the ma?
chine is pulled about in tool work.
It takes just three seconds to
make this connection, ten being the
average time. Nothing could be
easier, and you are ready to at?
tach the seven-inch drapery nozzle,
the blower for the radiator or book?
case or the hollow brush for
furniture, as you like. The eight
foot hose can be further lengthened
by the thirty-inch extension tube
when a long, stiff handle is needed
for reaching high places.
No more climbing up on ladders
to clean moldings if you have three
seconds to spare 'for attaching a
! tool I Is it possible that the women
1 are failing to take advantage of
these features of the vacuum clean
; ere? The men in the business tell
; us so, and husbands sadly confirm
| the verdict.
Let us hear from the women
! themselves. Do you use the vacuum
cleaner tools or noT And if not,
why not?
It is a special loss with the Uni
I versai, as the air flow with the at
i tachments is 50 per cent better than
the average with this machina, In?
suring excellent cleaning work with
the tools.
Light to Carry and Easy to Push
Another important feature of the
Universal is it? lightness and ease
of operation. It weighs only eleven
pounds with cord, which is over two
pounds lighter than the average for
machines of its type. Two other
points decreasing effort on the part
of the operator are the three rub?
ber-tired wheels on which it runs,
the rear wheel being a 1.5 swivel
caster which makes it very easy to
direct, and the fact that there is less
than average friction at the nozzle,
making the machine easy to push,
though efficiency is not sacrificed, as
shown by other tests.
How It Handles Flour and Lint
For jexample, with the traction
driven brush this little machine
cleared up a tablespoonful of flour
scattered over a square foot of
space in five strokes; without the
brush in four only, a good average
performance.
On the standardized lint test the
brush cleared the 6pace in four
strokes, while the average is eight,
showing that for this type of ma?
chine the work is twice as good as
the average. The lint type of dirt
requires a brush of some sort, as is
shown by the fact that it takes ;
about eighty-three strokes to remove
this amount of lint without any
brush at all, while the traction
driven brush reduces this figure to
four. This efficient little brush ean
be inserted in three seconds-?an?
other time record?it being con?
structed with a steel spindle having
a spring end which is easily pushed
in for removing and returning the
brush when it needs cleaning.
The only criticism, to be made is
that the appearance of a streak
may be left on some perfectly plain,
unpatterned rugs of solid color, with
velvet-like soft nap, owttg to the
fact that the brush and the wheels I
revolve in an opposite direction, and I
so lay the nap contrariwise. Th?3
would only be noticeable on the one I
type of carpet mentioned, and under j
other conditions this arrangement
probably increases efficiency.
Other Good Points
Another good point in operation
is its low clearance. It will go under
furniture only 6.4 inches high, the
lowest figure of eight cleaners ex?
amined, the average being 7.75
inches.
The dustbag is easy to unfasten,
empty and replace, and this isl m
poTtant, as it constitutes the only
unpleasant feature of using a
vacuum cleaner. The bag is double,
of the usual size, and is attachr-d to
the fan outlet by a quarter turn of
a sleeve with a rubber ring washer.
It empties from the top, the C-inch,
foldover clamp, tightened by tin
thumb nut, being much easier to
manipulate than the sliding clamp
too often found. There is a 12:inch
inlet passage, which holds the dirt
in the bag when detached from the
cleaner until one can empty it in a
safe, cleanly way. Both a spring and
a chain fasten the bag to the handle.
It took forty-two seconds to remove
the bag, shake it, and replace it.
This is about an average time when
one is familiar with the machine.
The nozzle of the machine is of
average width (12.6 inches), with a
cleaning width of nearly 12 inches.
| bo that one can clean within three
eighths of an inch of any edge, and
the suction will cover this. The
1 nozzle is not adjustable for height,
I being fixed at 0.15 inch above the
j floor, which is slightly closer than
j the average.
! Characteristics of Fan and Motor
The fan and motor are interest
; ing in that they are somewhal
j smaller and less rapid than the aver?
age, but ara so well designed in re?
lation to the whole machine thai
? more than average air-flow efficiencj
is obtained. The motor is horizonta
and well ventilated, being eoolet
by a four-bladed fan. Runninj
somewhat more slowly than th?
average it runs very quietly, am
with a rise of temperature of on!]
29.5 degrees., whereas 50 degreei
are permitted. Such conditions Indi
cate a long-lived motor, and are to
be commended where efficiency has
not been sacrificed, as is true in this
case.
The motor is started and stopped
by a mere touch of the forefinger
on the small trigger six inches be?
low the top of the comfortable pis?
tol grip handle, and an automatic
spring clip holds the handle upright
when the tools are in use, or one
wishes to leave the machine stand?
ing. The electric cord is unusually
long, over twenty feet, and attaches
to any lamp socket by the most de?
sirable type of plug, i. e., the sepa
rabie, parallel-bladed Hubbell.
"Handsome ?s as Handsome
Does"
The cost of operation is 1.8 cents ?
an hour with electricity at 10 cents!
and 1.12 cents with the New York :
7-cent rate.
The machine is as good looking
as it is well behaved, being almost
dainty in appearance. It is so small
light and ea?y of operation as te?
nt in especially for small apartmert
house use, though it is efficient
enough for any menage. The Alum?
inum nozzle, fan case and motor
barrel are finished in a soft, antique
green tone, which, wiib the black
handle and gray satin finished bag,
gives the machine an unusually at?
tractive appearance.
Altogether, for looks, conveni?
ence, efficiency and price, the Uni?
versal is a cleaner with exceptional
advantages to offer.
The Universal Vacuum Cleaner.
Mad? by Landers, Frary & Clark,
New Britain, Conn.
(For further details a? to prices,
dealers, etc., address The Tribune
Institute, New York Tribune, 154
Nassau Street, or telephone Beek
man 8000).