Newspaper Page Text
COOKBOOKS AS VACATION LITERATURE
By LUCY CALHOUN Illustration by LOUIS M. GLACKENS IT 13 strange that in selecting books for a sum? mer vacation few twrson? consider the ??ualifications of the cookbook as hammock literature. Every one likes to read cook? books. There is something so appetizing about them. Next to the well known book of verses underneath the bough comes the book ?>f recipes. "Thou" would most certainly join in praising the cookbook if it were arjade clear that you had no ulterior motive in suggesting it as a means of whiling away the hours. Perhaps the cookbook ?even ought to be ?flamed before the book of verses as a popular piece of summer solace, for while the verses may breathe of love, a popular topic, as every one wiil admit, the cookbook discusses food, a topic not only popular and enlivening, but eternally welcome, it seems. There are times when we prefer not to speak of love, but. no shyness, diplomacy or discretion prevents our discussing recipes. Consider the times and -siaces in which you have discoursed of food and listened to such discourse. Even at the symphony concert invariably the kitchen mur? mur pursues us. Mrs. Smiggins is telling Mrs. Higgins how to make a mushroom cake out of lima bean 3. ^"John ate three helpings, my dear. I assure you it was just as good as if it had been made out of potato juice" We listened for measurements. "A tea spoonful to a cup and plenty of cream" the voice babbles on through the intermission. The brasses and strings of the orchestra once mere vibrate with the heavenly strains of '?-Vchaikowsky''-- "Path?tique," but the sym? phony is spoiled for us. We are wondering about that cake. Did she say use baking powder or more eggs? Tis thus the spoken cookbooks get us. The written ones are more alluring. Every variety of taste may be gratified in this de? partment of literature. A glance at the cards in the public library shows the institution's catholic quality. There is, for instance, the cookbook which goes under the sounding title "Studies in Right Application of Heat to the Conversion of Food Materials"?clearly a weighty document, destined to be the com? panion of domestic scientists, not mere cooks. And there is the less pretentious but crafty Victorian cookbook labeled "How to Keep a Husband; or, Culinary Tactics." Kitchen gen? eralship was apparently the only way to ac? complish this desirable end in 1872. Close to this is another written by one of the early suffragists who signs herself "A Heretic." She dared to publish a book of "Quick Cooking for Busy Women," taking the then unprecedented stand that there is other work for women than domestic toil. Then there is the encouraging one called "It Is Never Too Late to Learn. Facts for the People or Things Worth Knowing. A Book of Recipes in Which Everything I? of Practical Lse to Everybody.'' "What." as the poet says, "could be fairer than that?" -There ar?i the so-called economy cookbooks by which one may learn how to live on 30 cents a day (and feel like it). There are volumes issued by religious ladies, royalties dedicated to the sacred cause of a new church carpet. ??>pciety women have graciously consented to allow their names to be used?"yes, you may quote me"?in other books whose proceeds go The making of a "pye" in a fifteenth century kitchen to pet charities. Bill to "advertising" en the debutante daughter's account. There are the specialty cookbooks. One in the .list is fatiguingly entitled "Eggs in a Thousand Ways." You would hardi y suppose there could be that many changes rung on the simple egg. Tuskeegee Institute has issued an illuminating work on "How to Grow the Pea? nut and 105 Ways of Preparing It for Human Consumption." Astounding to think of such possibilities in the peanut! Another Tuskee? gee tract relates "How to Grow the Cow Pea and Forty Ways of Preparing It as a Table Delicacy." There are "Simple Soups" (for simple souls). "The Everyday Pudding Book." con? taining 365 recipes for pudding, so that ii your imagination falters over other kinds o^ dessert you can at least count on a different pudding every night. The military takes a hand in the cookbook business, and one Major L. contributes a highly seasoned lot of recipes with a delightful flavor of the world about them. "Breakfasts, Luncheons and Ball Suppers, by Major L." Apparently the Major leads such a hectic life that he never has time to dine. He just skips blithely from luncheon and its ensuing gaye ties right into a ball. From this democratic outburst we turn to the nobility as represented by Lady Maria L'lutterbuck (can't you hear the clatter of egg beater on dish in that name?). Lady Maria's book is enchantingly called "What Shall We Have for Dinner?" and it pleases us when we are worrying over what to give John that Lady Maria, aristocrat as she is, is similarly disturbed ever Lord Maria's taste. We feel, since she writes recipes, that she is probably what Thackeray used so delicately to mention as a "decayed gentlewoman." But decayed or not, she has a title. There is also "Artistic Cookery?A Practi? cal System Suited for the Use of the Nobility and Gentry." And following that "Hints for the Relief of the Poor by Suggesting How They May Procure a Cheap and Comfortable Subsistence in Time of Scarcity," date 1795. shortly after the American Revolution. Post? war poverty in England. Oh. those old cookbooks! Whole civiliza? tions may be reconstructed ;rom a few page.? of them, as a scientist reconstructs a complete monster from ? single jawbone discovered in some hill. And with what vivacity they are written! How gay they are! One has the feeling of being in a perfect whirl as one sees the pen pictures of Major L.'s ball suppers: wax lights in silver candelabra, vast, salads, jellied chicken trimmed with flowers, wines to be iced, and wines that must on no account be iced, truffles, deviled bones, roast young suck? ing pigs, etc. But prize of all prizes in cookbooks is the chunky little brown volume published in Lonion in 1669 "by His Son's Consent," with all the long S's intact and the quaint language of that day. It is entitled "The Closet of the Emmi? nently Learned Sir Kenelm Digbie Kt. Opened Whereby Is Discovered Several Ways of Mak ing Metheglin, Sidcr. Cherry Wine. etc. To? gether with Excellent Directions for Cookery as Also for Preserving, Conserving and Candy? ing." A complete history of social customs in the seventeenth century, this little book. And an invaluable aid to the home brewer. For in stance, if one is a meath drinker here is Sir Kenelm's recipe. He credit? a lady for it as: "My Lady Bellassises Meath." The way of making is thus: "'She boileth honey with spring water, as 1 do. till it be clear scumed, then to every gallon of honey put in a pound or two of good rai_ins of the sun, boil them well until the liquor bear an egge. Then pour into a cowl or tub to cool." There follow directions which might bring down the censure of Mr. Izzy Einstein should they be printed here. The recipe concludes: "And after three or four, months you may drink and it will be ver;, pleasant and quick." This liquor is probably, a direct descendant of the mead whio*h used to flow in gold-rimmed horns for our Saxon ancestors. There are recipes for other enticing drinks, however, that even Mr. Volstead could not fail to approve. For instance: "A Pretty Apple Drink?Put three gallons of fountain water to fifty clean pippins unpared (foT the paring is the cordialest part of them? in a great pipkin and let them boil until they be? come clear and transparent, which is a sign that they be tender. Then with your ladie feto i : arl! pate i. corporated ?-jg ,".' water, Jetting ? ?* that the water may draw j itself ?j the vertue of the apples. Then put to <u! a pound and a half of double refir.ed so? powder, which will soon be dissolve-- A hot liquor. Then pour into a Hippocrasu' and" let it run through it two or three t; b* very dear. Then put it. up into '^ and after a little time it will be a mfiSi J* ant. quick, cooling and soothing ?lr?T?k" There are the mont fa^inating recm?.^ (?eventeeth century foods. We learn that ?is! Lady of Newport Bakes Her Venison B <> An elaborate recipe follows. There ig ? for roasting wild boar. The next timl*^ butcher gets one in consult Sir Kenelm. * close to that is a dissertation or. "pyeg*> ?./ our eminent author: "I made also good ^ of red deer, larding well the Joan and tu laying under it a thick plastron of beef first chopped small and seasoned **e? ?f pepper and salt, then beaten into a ts?t*Z for the meat. And another ?fach esta Jr* the deer's flesh, and so well baked in, gSl crust and soaked two or three hours in*! oven after it was baked through, ^a. quired six good hours. If you- use no suets?* in Butter enough as also put in enough tu g the paste after it is baked and half cold bu? h?le made in the top when it is near to )J> baked." If I am not mistaken this is the r-?-y ??-,,,, That Friar Tuck ate with Robin Kood h* ?tv wood Forest, washed down by draught? ?/ good malmsey. There is a recipe for black pudding, v&% thai which stuck to the young wtmaftsmi the fair- tale. And when you re&t*| gt, powdered almonds, cream and otherjj-j? enta used you will regret the pa*??n-" of -?' puddings from the ear Of course, in reading ? one m?r I not take them too 5-- is Better ii ?? I to treat them as entertaining fictwa. Q^fm * Dickens's heroine who became Mrs. John Eos?. I smith is only ona cf many vmim -: who, relying on a cookbook or casual voIbk ? of "Household Hints" fine- that prop &; I her in an hour of need. Do you reaiesat | how the fascinating Belia used to ?ose fe- I temper over the domineering unreasorab:*. | ; ?- s rjf "The Complete British Bonseviit' A certain poetic license should be a:lo*** the writers and e r .?ookbooks. Tir tnuat be taken literally or disaster wffl ftj?sr. 1 remember distinct].- my first attempt at c omelette. The recipe was an old and sup? posedly reliable one which I found in a Frena grandmother'? cookbook. It said. "E whites of the eggs separately until they an so stiff that you can hold them upside do-r? over your head." ? beat and best until was impossible to bes' ary more. they were ready. ? held le bowl ?rr-dedssi over my head. I got, I remember, a beaotifi egg shampoo, but no omelette. ? "ookbooks make deUghtful reading, te nothing will take tue place of actual espe once in cookery. However, the recipes, a* St Kenelm says in the introduction to his kol "Being so exceller' ii I eir kind, so be? ficial, and so well ordered. I think itunha? some, if net injurious, by the troabie o? ir further discourse to detain thee any iocs?: from falling to. Fail to. therefore, a: ?rood mav do thee. Farewe"!' Kurnagae, of Japan, an expert at kenjitsu as ivell as tennis. His father was a champion fencer By William R. White 44 ^[""-C T"^' is ^"JaP*11-6*5^ tennis player* %/%/ have made such remarkable * ? progress in international com? petition?" Zenzo Shimizu was asked recently. Shimizu, with Ichiya Kurna? gae, met William T. Tilden and William M. Johnston in the challenge round for the Davis Cup, emblematic of the world's cham? pionship, at Forest Hills last year. "To tell the truth, the showing of Japan? ese players has not been remarkable except on the surface," Shimizu replied. "Japanese have been preparing for this game for a thousand years. They ought to be proficient. Although tennis is comparatively new in Japan, schoolboys and young men for gen? erations and generations have been perfecting themselves in one or both of Japan's major sports?jiujitsu and kenjitsu. And the lat? ter game, comparable to fencing, provides ex? cellent training for lawn tennis." Shimizu went on to explain how a kenjitsu expert might stef> on a tennis court having never previously seen a tennis ball or racquet and play a fair sort of game, for the simple TWO WORLDS WITH A NET BETWEEN Tennis Comes Naturally to Kumagae and Shimizu, Their Japanese Ancestors Having Prepared Them for the Game reason that the same muscles are brought into play and the strokes are similar in both games. The skill acquired in kenjitsu would permit the Japanese player to strike the ball with great accuracy and precision. Before taking up Shimizu's explanation it may be well to glance at a few facts and figures. It seems reasonable to believe that there is something more than mere opinion behind his statement, for in the face of the physical handicap of stature Kumagae and Shimizu have attained high ranking i? the tennis world. The latter was placed No. 4 in A. Wallis Myers's authoritative international list last yea/, behind only William T. Tilden, William M. Johnston and Vincent Richards, while Kumagae ranked No. 7 in the United States Lawn Tennis Association's official American list. It is safe to say, therefore, that the two Japanese are among the first ten players of the world. They are slight and of about the same height, Scarcely more than five feet tall. What they lack in height and reach must be coun? terbalanced in agility, accuracy and speed. Kumagae is further "handicapped by the fact that he has to wear eyeglasses at play and by the fact that he is left-handed, necessitating increased efficiency in backhand strokes. Thus when it is taken into consideration that players who have won their way to the top?men like McLoughlin, Tilden, Kingscote, Brookes, Patterson, Lo'renz and Gobert?have generally been tall and rangy and have had great reach as well as speed afoot, it must be conceded that the two Japanese have made almost phenomenal strides in a short time with the odds against them. Only in recent years has tennis been played in Japan. Yet while Europeans from the time of the feudal kings were playing with a ball and racquet the Japanese were engaged in training which has' proved just as effective in preparing the present generation for lawn tennis, so that they stand on an equal footing with players from thirteen ether nations who are to decide which shall meet the American team for the Davis Cup this year. Let Shim? izu explain: "Kenjitsu is played with bamboo swords, really nothing more than light sticks four or five feet in length. Each player is protected about the head and body by pads stiffened with bamboo, and it is the aim of each, as in fencing, to strike his opponent at vital point?. For instance, there are six points by which scores are made?first, by a blow over the head; second, by one at the throat; third, by one on the opponent's left hand or arm; fourth, on the left side of the body; fifth, on the right hand or arm; and, sixth, on the right side of the. opponent's abdomen. These strokes are mote easily illustrated by motions than de? scribed in words and they will be understood by all tennis players if they are translated into tennis terms. "The first movement is identical with the overhand smash of tennis with the arm out? stretched above the head. The. second is seen in the twisting servie? produced by a wrist motion, characteristic of many Japanese play? ers. The blows at the opponent's arms are made by the same motion as is used in the forehand and backhand volley, the action be? ing partly limited to a wrist movement. Like ? wise, the blows at the opponent's body are made in the same manner as the forehand and backhand strokes, sweeping motions, with the arms in full play. "Japanese fencers become so skillful at ken? jitsu that they are able to judge the flight of objects with such accuracy that with a sword they can sever an arrow shot at them and de? flect it from its course. With pocket knives or similar weapons they can kill small birds in flight. This skill, of course, is of great assist? ance to the Japanese tennis player in judging the speed of a tennis bail in flight and" in striking it with just the amount of force needed to send it where desired. "Since the Samurai, the upper classes have played this game for centuries, it is not sur prising, therefore, that Japanese adopted lawn tennis with not a little skill and ability, Kumagae's father was a champion fencer anc Ichiya was one of the leading exponents oi kenjitsu, so that his ability in American tour? nament play was not so reynarkable as hjs ver satility in changing from light, uncovered rubber balls to 'which he was accustomed in -Tapan, to regulation tennis balls and in famil? iarizing himself with playing on gra_s instead of on clay or dirt courts. In fact, it would not be surprising to see Japanese make real progress .in tennis now that a national as? sociation has been formed, regulation balls have been adopted and plans arranged for regular tournaments in which leading players of the country will meet one another." Shimizu's statement is a plausible explana? tion of what has been regarded by American tennis followers as one of the most remarkable achievements in the annals of the sport?the rise of two unknown players from the Orient to the foremost rank in half a dozen years. Kumagae entered tournament play in this country after little or no experience with reg? ulation tennis balls on grass courts, and at the end of the season (1916) was ranked No. 5 in the Lawn Tennis Association's American list. To the uninitiated, it may be explained that to break into the "first ten" after years of stren? uous competition is no mean achievement. No ranking was made in 1917, but in 1918 Kumagae held seventh position. The following year he advanced to No. 3. while in 1920 he dropped back to fourth position. Last year he was placed seventh. Shimizu was virtually unknown before he entered the world's championships at Wimble? don in 1920. Here he established his reputa? tion by winning his way to the finals, facing William T. Tilden. "Big Bill," as all -Ameri? cans know, won from the plucky Japanese stai by his ?.mashing net; play and change of pac? and then dethroned Gerald L. Patterson, leadei of the Australasian Davis Cup team at pres? ent, in the challenge round. Kumagae and Shimizu, aided by Seiichirc Kashio, another promising player, form?e Japan's first entry in international compet? tion for the Davis Cup a year ago, and theii record at Forest Hills in the challenge roujx is too fresh in the minds of Americans to ne?=c ?*epetition. Suffice to say that the Nippon Ciui of New York has recently donated the Ne. York Cup to the Japanese Tennis Associatioi for annual competition in Japan in comment oration of the accomplishments of these thre players. Shimizu maintained his reputation in "Benga and other cities of India before invading Eng land for the Wimbledon tournament of 192. when he astonished the tennis world by win ning his way over Europe's best to the finals only to fall before the wizardry of "Big Bill Tilden. Henri Cochet, French Singles Champion, Rises in One Year From Obscurity to the First Rank of International Tennis -? By John R. Tunis 6 ? IT F "*'?^~ v*m''?"? a3^ec^ mm I Henri Cochet, : the new tennis "^- champion of France, who has but re? cently passed his twentieth anniver? sary, looked up, smiled imperturably, and said nothing. "And if you loFe?" ' . At this question he shrugged his shoulders expressively, and opening his hands with a gesture that was strikingly French, remarked: "Voila- tout." Yes, that was all. If he won. he won; if he lost, well, he lost. Eccause it was only a game of tennis, not the fate of nations that hung in the balance. At last we have a champion who does not believe that the whole future of the world will be* altered by his victory or defeat. A delightfully simple and wholly unusual attitude for a champion to take; but this Latin athlete is a delightfully simple and wholly unusual person. For in the modest young Frenchman who landed last week in this country, and who plays for his nation against the Australians at Longwood next Thursday and Friday, a new star has burst upon the American Rport ing world. Just one year ago this boy who to-day holds the tennis championship of his country, as well as two world championships, was un? known outside his native city of Lyons. At the time he was recognized merely as a fine all around athlete, a fine football player, boxer and oarsman, and a young man who was about to enter the eighteen months' serv? ice with the colors, which the law requires of all Frenchmen of his age. To-day he is the undisputed champion of France, holder of the world's championship on covered courts, and the world's championship on hard courts, which title he won. last spring afc Brussels from the best players in Europe. And be? sides, he is the youngest tennis champion in the world; far younger than men like Alonzo -vtf-l -l?. mBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBB3^ ^* ] Henri Cochet, of France, whom fc?| countrymen call "the Carpenter*! tennis." He is a native of Ly** of Spain, Tilden of America, Kumaf?e ?Tapan and Patterson of Australia, ^c * ? the recent tournament at Wimbledon. I*1 |. short space of twelve months this . has risen from obscurity to the fro*1 ?J of the tennis players of the weri* the best of his native land in a vsy tb*?*| left no room for doubt as to **?* * premier player in France. ^ ? He does not imprest? you as sv. ai;k'ete ?j you meet casually; for he lacks the JW-JJ physique of Tilden or of Patterson. -1 of stature, slight of build, he sta??-! under five feet six inches an weighs b**?! hundred and thirty-five pounds. Bat* f bundle of muscle as sinew; as a writ?* ? the French paper, "Mirror," put rt, ? "fort harmonieusement battu." Pre? set up, as you might say. You notice all this unconsciously- m that first strikes you as you meet bia^ air of diffident boyishness, his ci*?r eyes, his curly blond hair and |'-3 ^ simple and unaffected way of talk???.' himself and his hopes for the f^1* when some one asks him to expiai?) the for his sudden rise in the athletic < becomes suddenly silent. One of the unusual things *boQ* surge to the front rank of the world^in, est athletes is the fact that for ?v? -?** j (Continued on page /<?