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The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, August 24, 1890, Image 20

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20 THE SUN SUNDAY AUGUST 24 I890TWENTYTWO PAGES
THE WAYS OF SWEET WOMAN
Beyond Finding Out Tot Novortho
losa of Absorbing Interest
1
ONE OP HER LATEST WHIMS
Porfumo Injected Hypodormicallj
Into Her Blood
A Practice tk t JTnrli rhr lel wen
Compolle to ProhlbltOe ITonMi
4 Clok that WM m Dead Fallnre Th <
Dreee or F eh irons Conpitrcd wltk
ttmt f the EnKlukAa Arehdnehei
TaT Hide Aitrlde Queitloa
Bo great U I the passion for perfume amont
Parisian woman that not only are tnolr tresset
bathed la fragrant water tbolr shoes made 01
perfumed leather tbolr clothes folded la odor
o sachets but recently n fair belle of tbc
frivolous oltr discovered n method of render
I nerrery flesh and blood as full of sweol
odors as a rosebud freshly gathered She was
like manr social queons a iatlm of the opium
bablt and had notleod with annoyance that
Are Injecting hypodermlcnlly a strong In
fusion of the drug hor oatlre bodr seemed
jjerraded with Its peculiar odor To coun
teract this effect Iht tried the experiment
of Injecting a few drops of perfume
lectl
la the earns way when to hor grout
dellcbt In a short time after tho operation
i her person was redolent with the sweetness ol
tb perfumes Bho Intended reserving tho
proo is for her own benefit but her inald dl
voiced the secret and presently not a toilet
table was fully equipped without a subcu
taneous perfume srrlnso and the One ladles
I Pal fell mrsterlouslr 111 from Infusing Im
pure perfumes Into tho blood or uplng extracts
distinctly poisonous In tho samo way And
now the doctors are warring against tho dan
r Beroua fashion and Intoud to summarily dis
possess It by petitioning to the legislature to
t mao the practice punishable by law
An English woman writer advances tbe the
El
orr tat the reason Parisian women always
I Mem 1 much better dressed than their sisters
j across the Channel Is because tho French dame
I considers herself Ort and her costume nftor
trard and subordinates her pretty and piquant
tot to tne peculiarities of her own personali
ty I while tb English woman conforms to the
demands of tbe moo and good form forget
I ting In the prestige accords J to her freshness
fUrareand One complexion the necessity of
lot allowing the costume to dominate tho
TToman and unheeding the subtleties of color
Uur and the requirements of IndiYlduol char
acteristics
A French woman Invariably studies her good
points and accentuates them so emphatically
that they an Impressed upon ones memory to
o confusion of her Imperfections In color
combinations she has the Instincts and Intui
tions ofan alt and In designing her toilet
one studies frt of all its effect upon her eyes
I rather than her complexion She knows that a
I cunning touch of red lends duskr shadows and
wonderful lights to dark orbs and that softest
I hades of a and blue deepen blue eyes to
Yiolet She determines just which color In tbe
prism best supplements her beauty and with
rare faithfulness never bestowed upon hus
I bands or lovers she clings t It until she dies
i ringing out happy changes with her wonderful
Ingenuity upon It various shading and mak
ing I her lifelong servitor and vassal In
stead of the monotony anticipated a arising
from such a cure of acton there is a certain
distinctive and Individual charm In the effect
quite foreign t tat obtained by running Ibo
whole Put ot color 1 the average woman
does regardless o its effect upon her beauty
The Ladles Cub as a soda organization is
proving a somewhat dismal failure In London
where a few yeas ago It threatened to destroy
the mao caravansary entirely It Is moral
but lacks merriment virtuous but uncanny
and spiritless It requires the impetus of I
welldefined aim to maintain
4 some weldeOod purpose or malnta I
t its Interest among members Fair woman dos
not 1 a rule smoke or drink or care much
lor oars Eating and drinking without the
presence ot moo is wearisome to the Cosh
Conversation lacks animus without the manly
element and Is like warm champagne without
nap and Insipid to tho taste A collection of I
women gathered together for tho Lord knows I
hat and trying to find out why thor ara
1
there I about a cheerless a spectacle as an
assembly of chickens oaucht In a shower and I
wishing I were over The club that flourishes
typically speaking like tbe green bar tree
br the river side Is the club that is organized
f by men and for men but to which fair woman
is an Invitedhonored guest Ladles who en
tertain their bachelor friends year after rear
receiving their rewnrd only whore all good
deeds are recompensed In tho dim hereafter
rejoice In this new club whore they may turn
the tables on their bachelor guests
Perhaps the onlr person who doesnt really
appreciate tho new departure Is tbo bachelor
lilmseif for an entertainment to lovely I ladles
one of those luxurious and highly aristo
cratic establishments is a heavy tax upon the
financial resources of one whoso Income Is
limited Woman may bo very little lower than
the angels in most waY but the amount of
dainties she manages to consume on such oc
casions as Indicated by the bills Is pomowhat
I startling t one unfamiliar with hor ways and
Beems decidedly of the earth earthy
The most fasclnatlnx articles In tho famous
I trousseau of tbe Archduchess Valerie which
bas for some weeks been on exhibit In the five
Ii Badetzky saloons of the Imperial palace In
i Vienna are those In jewels and linen both tho
work of Viennese artists who bate combined
elegance tat and urtlfltic excellence In their
construction Wonderful gleaming diadems
of dlamondsbr themselves or wrought In with
pearls ot extraordinary size are tipped with
man pinted das the device of royalty or
Batched with edelweiss tho symbol of Inno
cenos Aigrettes ot large and umall stones
take the form ol clusters of tuarlloners set In
rpiavs of nno for froiuis
IPays Empresss fill U I a diamond brooch
from the centre ot which a tear of pearl seems
t drop and earrings In the same design
Uhe Emperors Hoiivenlr Is I a bro ch made of
diamondstudded hal moons and a dlailum
also In the same device
Iso rental bouse lamp of chiselled gold
t BUlterlog with Inrce dlnraonua ruble mid
other precious stones Is one of the most costly
of the jewelled gl ts
The house linen U more noticeable for good
taste and exauislto dcoilgii than for Simula
ostllness and bears 041 on tho most unim
portant bit the AuBtroIluiigurliin crown Inter
wovon with the aims uf tho loyul brllegroon
with tbe brides initials beneath A twofold
character Is curiously suggested by i Imllcu
the of Its royal woaier the Austrian Princess
Who combine tbo Ideal of a leado ol lusulon
able society with the frugal Industry ol tbe
typical Herman house fruu In the largo
white linen aprons and simple soonllod colloo
pawns of pure white loded benld culoo II
urqldsred garments of flnesi batiste and lace
Exquisite needlework daInn derornte some
of the pillow CHSCB on which ure wrought com
plete hunting treuas views of landscapes
towns and lilas In llnest siltche
Heal 1 Valenciennes lure with embroidery and
fine needlework lorni the universal decoration
1 be gnwn of gowns In I nlwplii faille trimmed
w Ith the finest of 1 nglUh point laca and tvoru
With a tellof tullo lli bfgliij k d hod lei
with its exiiulilto lace frlllluus has el bouijuut
of mvrtlo for lie only ornament
With tbe unfailing serenity born ot good
venue sjood judgment and tnuliless taste In
dm entrenched In the happy coniclousues
ot royal place and pjwer la the world of beauty
lad fashion tbe 1rlncuss of Wales Mill clings
t the becoming tournure which Is now > o
generally discarded to tbe detriment of most
toll which depended for their smartness to
no small degree upou that form of skirt
arrangement so sitdlr fallen into desuetude
aurouvbont the teaton dei Ite the mandates
of fashion rulsrt she lias acpmed IIInl81s1
ilUrnt but Tp perceptible Ii most beooui
lax C I figure and leD sbe travelled
L
H
r
I dow to breezy Blsler t nr the nrt
shot at the butt ot new Wlmbledo
In a dresn of deepest violet CA Wlmlllcoi
sprlgi of pain llusnlan violets the ower
NraperlM I pal1 ilBlitlr over h graeefnl tonrnun
drApries was almot bllck In Is depth 01 col
orlng matte with a b > dlro of velvet In tbo
prlro puzzle order in to fantenlng nnd WOtn
with n cnnt ore flowend U atonal Tho
rhnrmof this royal la y R dreB lies quite al
much In an rape Ions Independence In I
adopting mode tn AD original way to her PC
culliir style ol beauty ai in the rarupulnu
neatness pxmimtenesi ot fit and perfection of
detail for which It Is so universally admired
The gymnastic rae neoms well nigh an pre
Talent among the working clashes of Londo
as among tho upper ten thousand and a fOr
Interesting exhibition was recently conducted I
by I reulment ot droismnkers mllllnem am
working girls belonging to the Voung Woman
ChrlMlnn Aogoclntlon Ibo I costume ol tbi
glrln wbneo ages ringad from 1C to t 23 con
slsted of a dark blue tuulo nnd knickerbockers
with a crimson sash tloJ fit tbo Ride with fallIng
Ing rndn Dark blue stocldnun and dark eho8
tied with crimson nnd knot of tbs enme color
beneath tbo broad collar completed a coaturm
crACiful and becoming as well as a model 01
lluhtiiesi iind convenience I ho man ruru
Ihhtles Inlt COIfllenco
n tpmpllphtd weie Intricate aid dimcult ol
doncliitt careful drill and > vell developed mus
cles and Includnil wand moenionlK Dweatst
drill flcuremnrcnes skipping nnd swnrd drills
woideiful evolutions In running mal and
b in vaultinghorse tho result of the training
was mnst 110lnr i and apparent for the girls
> aultod In different moJos now Jumping upon
their knees and thence to tho ground upon
their lent and acaln aulilng upon their reel
with an agility that proved how cnllMhenlo e
orclfo glvni RUonlanom to thn limbs and elas
ticity ti the frump oven though people nn on
gaged In occupations nacrsUntlng a cramped
occupaUoD
Ialeilin
nnd unhealthy position of the body and con
llnoment In closo roms during hours o toll
IhN Intltute of tho Iohteclinlo as It la
culled hat bopn established nbnut two years
nnd Is pxtremoly popular a well a unUoubt
odly bennllclal
Embroidered mirror frames arn the latest
device ot needlewomen and ore very beautiful
In cfTnct as well a puzzling a to origin when
completed When reproduced In cheap mate
rial and Inferior work they will doubtless be
come as undesirable ns are tbo painted frames
oncn HO much admired Tho material em
plod for the frames Is something rich and
Irm In weave and the embroldory Is wrought
In harmonious coloring of soft blue and palo
roEO ehadoA for the conventionalized lowers
Blnvdo < of bronre green for tbo foliage and
sblto Ireen
light gold lllosollo darned work for the entlro
biulk uund Tho omtnoldory when com
PletvU is luld on a flat or curved surlaco at
tho Inner oduo a mount of white enameled
wood lnl hP3 It nn1 I a carved scroll of the
Inlohes carel
onnrnoliod wood surround It The back
ground 14 almo Invariably darned ns Itq
effect U rlchor than any material no mater
how vofttlt and handsome and tbe work room
mendf > 1tsoli lotholadl a to whom One needle
work N I n delight because It requires much
loss tlmo inomplcilon than the largo pieces
frmiuently un lortaken I but left unfinished for
WAtit of ori rtunlly unll tbe fancy for thorn
hoe pasted In the light of somo fresh novelty
Tho croat ride astride question which Is producing
ducing so much agitation and discussion at
present promises to be rre ently solved by fair
devotees to the cycling craze which Is spread
ing rapidly just now In Europe The araor of
our Scandinavian olsters has overcome their
feminine Ideals of docorum and they mount
their cycles as their brothers do In skirts mmt
decidedly bifurcated Viennese ladles are quite
B enthusiastic riders of the blcicle and trl
cycle aud they wear a convenient costume
comnoOl oi lull knickerbockers high boot a
military jacket and an Insignificant little pet
ticoat which looks most abashed at being
among such masculine accoutrements This
uniform Is trenuently elaborated to such an
extent as to airly outshine In splendor tbiit of
an olllcer of a crack regiment In all the Impos
ing regalia of ull dress Meanwhile tbe
Ingenmtv of man Is continually taxed to obvi
ate the necessity ot rldlnc tn carwr by ar
ranging baidt skirts WHirnntad to rip In tbe
ciso nl emergency and pava their wearers
coveicd onlv with contusion and riding
wlb rlnc
breeches In tho midst of tho bun InK field
riding skirt that are not skirts at all hut > only
nprons which Bee in gwolul In the Bsddo but
Bomowhut embarrassingly curtailed nt the I
hun breakfast < > r beton tho mount and last
of nil now saddle whoI iiommol are so
secured as to Ipave tbe saddle by the weight of t
the ildir In case of a spill Evidently the
masculine element resen < thn proposed Inno
vation and clings to ancient tradition
A great meeting has been held at MorIn
Bal to confer upon the formation of a Booletr
for ntfectlna byclonlo reforms In the dross
of women and girls The principal faults of
conventional 1 dress were decided to bo its stlff
nes weight nnd tightness The first resolu
tion proroned was entirely opposed to the
adoption of anything conspicuous or eccentrio
In apparel but advocated that dreos like pronunciation
appnrel
nunciation should have nothing surprising
about II but should be In accordance with
Herbert Spencers Idea of benutlful dreos of
neutinl tnt with one bit of brightness near
tbo face to call attention to the most Intel
lectual part of the body
Mme Antoinette hierllne made some force
ful remarks on ilio subject ol the modem
dressmaker Idoaor figure and heir criticisms
oj her onn brond Hbouldem Put gentlemen
In corsots ohe said and In one week they
will be Imnlshel J foiersr from HO Mr
wi
A Gentleman f note deprecated the use of
heavily trimmed Kato Ursenawar bonnets for
children iind th Inncoesllble and absurd po
sition ot womens pockets
Lndt Ilabb < rtnn of courna Introduced some
of hor extremely advanced iheoriei and con
demned the i rilling modi ications croponej as
Inelliclent and llkeiy to degenerate Into a
dow ly and frurany style of dress
Th ie ideas woro deprecated by the PI l
dont nnd nronounctnt n expressive or tbs doc
tiinanl diefs rivolutlon whereas theimrpose
Ilees
I of the Roclety was elmrly dre s evolution and
upon this basN the aocleti WHS orcxnlrod ol
niem nrs and associates Dm h mombei should
I pay n ceriairt < e per jear while the aHoelatea
were not wxpected to rontribnte to the ro
I FOUl cpo of Hie bOcillcd llealthy and Artistic
Dross Lniou
I
A new organization of waaeenrning women
I hns been founded to Inntiro women agnlnnt
I temporary illness and also arrange to pay their
heirs In consideration of a premium a cer
tain amount In case of death The society
Is arranged and governed entirely by women
and Is pelfeupporting tho management ex
p helnc provided lor by entrance fees
tines and donations 01 friends
A woman of J5 by paying oomethlng less
I thmt3n ichyparwlllrMfivelncasenf sicktiesa
t2awe Kfor six months and II ft week after
that nntll death when her heir 1 reeeliea out
nnt
sm Foralnrcer pieniluin of cours greater
boniMltK a > o received Memtters mAr also sub
I scribe to nn annuity fund in which cats pay
I ments taasowiien the annuity commences
Tho noclutywas foitndol a the riuu t of I
hundreds o wage earnum who > lalmad that
thiir were iitmbltf to tin I In all tbe charitable I
and fr ondly nrgnnlrntlDna for working omfn
ant tociKty nblch Innured them ngulntl turn
imrirv nines or would give them e > en for a
couslderutlon any adequate sick beuellt
I Qtinen Margaret of Ioly ban a fashion of de
termining to hr satisfaction the workings of
the various charitable Institutions In which
I shr > I interoted which lady patrons nf bono
ficenros iinuht do well to consider Her
I JlajfBtv In spIte ol oourt ceremonials and
social fun lions llnds tlmo to vliit tlivso Institutions
tmo Inst
I tutions ebpooinllr too devoted to children
very of Ion bin her visits are always un in
n Minced nnd rondo at most unoxpo ted times
I uhl h iiruooduro keeiH the sunerlntendenta
cuUBuiilh DM the aim Kecoiiilv on her re
turn fiom hur ovunliiK drho tha total
I carrliuo ilnw un bcf ire tho entrance
pi i li Hnital lor iTlpplml boy nnl
leflrmnc that lu Inna n Iind huen put to bed
bliB went UI > into tho dor i tot s und exam
ined Ilium n I p I urn ng tho trentlo ister or
the i < x < iiis order Him crtitunn of the wnrds
I Tin deilght of the chili rOi theli wnndrt ull
urnr H 10 pCtiy I 10 hen a tho IWHuiltuI I
lady In Ilor I rich iiipirul bent over encl lt to
Hiiili ubip > dition ut tha littles flurers like
Koine nntl l vlsltiint tn hinooh the pillows
rlth hi > r whlto iBnellol halt and to apeak
gentle wnrdn o conifTt In hgr oil low voice
I It IH lltiln vvondiir that Uio Italians wurablp
Ibis s iverelgnluly whu rules nv lr thorn wltu
bia h kTicoiiHiiiM nnd tact nnd gyuiputhy
Nev vvni tho summer girl1 so plquanlo
BO piourjKuin and altogether Irresistible us
hhe is thin xoavon when all the Ingenuity and
I Iniontlvenem ol nitlst nmtnmoiB Imvu been
BsiHiid a lit demoip < tritllg thn pomllillltlen of f
ell Inoiiulu wiiiithorproof lluune 1 and cerge
Whether tdja olliibn tame tgued mountain
side In 111 serI or Ilos > liar pajdlo 1 In
poftly fulling llnnriol nf vvondroun hue tho ru
suit U i equally Ihiirmlng and I nnltlo lor the
Herg ihkiant I enud > itli u mawu ln ohlit of
lirillBnt lint and lh ttnnnel Isuieuiurplio e < i
Int I xunuit bit dnrulle elota ce with
lirnldn gh a I lrIA of gold Hid IIIr A
iiMVy InrniHilie inih winch in trannliition
l i e a > n u n ell i Ttti it I ladl w tli it > o
I ro tll
teiilt I < ii irt Ie i i I dm jp hi with I two
Inli 11 l HI rt hl1 i hr111 men K Iur
If f Hi t lio r lii n u bIl i iliith anil
inpfd vKl gull li I ml I Ilm 1 bo lice lia d
loo < 10 lid io t 111 I vtith rl l 9or
over 1 Iluht < culrin > t bauded diagonally
with the color Introduced on the skirt A
I dark blue sailor bar trlmmsd with tbe same
colors and nan blue Blovtf lightly Jlnt
with scarlet complete the Frenoh eostnmi
loarlet
whixie Indlvidua Ity etl style Is Indeed nnex
peeted when evolved from such materlaln
The Introdnotlon 01 Western customs ad
dress among Imitative Japanese I produc
tin of some amusing Incldrnts
The substitution of European dress fo the
I kimono br Japanese court ladles Is Indeed In
creasing and their desire to follow closely tbe
manner ot Its wearers Is mOlt emphatic
A gentleman while waiting for I train at
Yokohama station oberved a gilded Japanes
well In full Euinpean dress approach a pretty
little Jap lady also In the same ilress nnd 1t
Iltto hat jauntily In animation whereupon th <
little lady endeavored to lilt her bonnet In an
Bwerto hln greeting tugging vigorously nt it
fastening which retUcd to vlold to her de lro
Finding her exertions entirely unavnlllnc
Madams lihryanntnomnm slid her hands dowi
the iront nf her furbelowod uowii nnd mode thi
conventional Japanese groetlug in conluelon
English artists evidently believe In tho Intro
duotlon ot art In advertising Mr O D Leslie
I A has Just completed a signboard for
public bouse called the Row Barge The Biln
represents an old state barge towed by six
oarsmen with a canopy In the stern bencatt
which are seated the Mayor and tbe co porn
tlon with the mace benier In the bow ana the
ton Hag floating over all And Mrs Umothi
III noatul all
Tennant Stanley has written a letter of thanke
to a llrm of soap manufacturers who bav
bought her last gallery picture Stieet Aiab
at Play to be used as an advertisement oi
their wares On receiving tne samples of theli
recelvlnl
previous pictorial advertisements which tbey
forwarded to her together with a notice of the
flte ol her picture tbe lady replied Dem
IlrB I am obllaed tn ym for sending me thl
plctute ohllod t think they are ilrst inte I 1
nm ferfoctly satlslleil to have my raRamuuin
done like these think the public ought to be
oblige I to you for gl > lnz them pleasant pictures
oblge
tures to look at I do not see hew tbe boyc
turningHeads oter Tailsns I meant to call
It can be turned Into a Sunlight boap adver
tlsement but Ingenuity can do a great dea
Yours truly DOBOTHT IKKNAMX
The neatest flannel gowns whatever tholi
tnt are those made with bodices to match the
pklrte but they are altogether In the minority
The prevailing BIle In fashioning la almost In
variably after one of the two modelsshins ot
blouses The newest of the blouses are In tar
tan silks or In brilliant color equalling tha
barbiirlasnlondorof tho blazers worn by 10n
Probably Ibo most daring color contrast worn
by ladles Is a combination ot yellow and ma
genta In which a wellknown belle appeared
recently though scarcely Iss gaudy are the
yellow waists quite frequently een with scar
let Mannings The stiffly starched uncompro I
mising cambric ebtrts worn tn tb early par
of the season ate fast being supplanted tbese
warm mornings and scorching noondays by tha
full soltfronted shirts of silk which are Infinitely
111
finitely more comfortable 1 well 1 more be
coming and feminine
Pink seems to be Ibo favorite color for theso
snlrtBjust at present though tbnt doubtless
will b supplanted directly by some other tnt
and pink cars tied in a Bailor knot with tne
ends thrust Into the waistband are also well
worn with white or spotted shirts
A pretty gray dress with an open jacket
worn over a soft red shlit fastened at the I
waist wl h a diamondbuckled belt Impresses
one favorably and a canary oilk shirt worn b
neaihawblie coat and accompanied by a hat
laden with yellow bio > m and ted beneath the
chin with rlbb > ns of the same shade Is re
membered pleasantly among lecent toilets
A new hyglenlo Bklrt for pedestrian tour
and mountain climbing bas been Invented
which Is to all outward appearance a con
ventional affair neat made and nleely hung
but tiaa a foundation skirt that Is I wonderfully
constructed to clnaway entirely with pet nat
11 y some filmple contrivance this foun latlcn
has Ibo oflect of knlckert > okers beneath
which little clothing N I re lulrad For shooting
this foundation Ix I of hea > y cloth and Is ac
companied by heavybuttoned leggings aUoof I
cloth but for ordinary oa the foundation I
of mohair linen or silk
Among the premonitions of an approaching
change In ftjle more marked than any during
the past two rears Is the decided tendency to
ornament tbe skirts of dressesln an elaborate
manner in mal kod contrast to their present
simplicity Dre makers continue to prophesy
a return to voluminous draperies though they
admit that the rldlngbabtcut will be main
tamed for woollens of tbo tnllormade order
and already tha costumes displayed In the shoo
windows are quite the roverie of plain One
ot tie IsaBt complicated iew decorations con
sists of two arrowiboped pieces of laB men
terle following the side soams nf tbo skirt
the one on the rlgnt enclosing the pocket hole
and extending Mtteen inches blow tbe waist
TheA ornaments are made of lace folded to a
point at the lower extremity or of galloon or
braid arranged In tbe required lorm and when
worn with round waists have a belt
or wlb
Prlncessa gowns and polonaises have ele
gantly tilmmed pocket hles on both sides of
the skirt the ornaments stopping just beliw t he
waist and points 1 at the top as well an bottom
Ate iy pretty costume of this kind designed
for early autumn 1 nf Orisons blue surah
made with a plain gathered kirt and bodice
brightened up with dull silver passementerie
extending down the earns of tho skirt and abel
belt oollar and gauntlet cuffs ot the silver
bel oolar gauntet to slTer
A characteristic of the oomlng seasons
gowns Is the eocalled burrrau sklit which Is
wrapped about the blps In two or three folds
the lower one being carried round to tho back
over the TAt to form the lop pleat of a bel
lowspleatad arrangement behind This stylo
makes the waist seem very slender but should
be attempted by slight figures only The folds I
fall In fetoonB In front but the fourrenu Is a
cloe fitting at the lack and sides as Us lame
Indicates and la I go nor a ly bordered with trim I
ming 1 he bodice Is cut a little longer than
tbe waist as thu skirt Is appurently mounted I
upon It but In reality It Is confined by a
belt firmly holding It In place
A croeny cnu wool robe made In this style
has a wide ball of renaissance guipure on I
the hnui and a b > dico of cui ray lorm lao In
front where It ban a eneif nf small pleats I
spreading out to the shoulder sen ran blub i
black velvet sleeves and a necklet of guipure
arranged about the lowcut neck The skirt I i
de < orations taku tbe form of flounces very
I often made in ruchlngs nt the chicory order for I
I binnrt nnd dr y gowns or gathered frills I I
sewed onu 11 to other I to the number of I
ISI with n heading ut tha top one for plainer
dresses Wimh d < > s es hitvn a single flounce
i simply hemmed 0 and gathered on with n I
little braiding whin light wool gowns bam
I flounces trimmed wlh rws ol narrow velvet
rlbl n in n style p evnlent several yean otto
Net flounces are threaded In and out with nar
ane
row ribbons or darnel with elk flosses iu a
pattern
A Saratoga correspondent writes that the
belle of the springs this roar It Miss Julia
UoroslnL Hhe riles down Broadway lr a I I I
tailormade habit of light gray a silk bat net I
ting squarely on the coll of bar dark brown
hair There Is nothing spirituals about Mia i
Moroslnl he adds She Is wall put up and
there IH plenty of avoirdupois Bhn Mts her I
plump chestnut ranro wlih are at dignity and
looks straight ahead between iho roaroB Bars I
At exactly the proper distance the groom in a
hull coat inrdurny knee br eehes nnd too
boots follows upon a stout buy gelding Ho
bas a cockHde on his bnt and be car
I ries a riding i whip braced lnstw lila
I Bldo I nt imt t thh corr t angfe When
JIKS Mornlnl trots thE croom trots
I and when Miss Moroslnl cantors the groom
camera TberhettTiiit mare a Id the lIar geld
I Ing are usually allowed 10 walk down llroad I
wny between thu lioto at a dro s puradn
I Salt Wljon Miu turns Into n sldo street 118 I
I
lmo lnl touched tho maio and away tha pro
cession goes
iiicMBon the plarras have noted that the
I iroom In young and rundtorne with ullni
liber Ian tlut larIIR smooth cheeks Mlts I
I Uorrmlnfn eld < > r ulster Is mid to Li travelling
I II huropn Tne Iredifmed irr Oia Is In no
r Mlsn lulla I vll evor wound the fami
ly nrldu ns Virginia did Mind Julia Is her
fathers own clrL
The mysterious disappearance of a Philadel
phia woman from the Atlantic City surf had an
iiuuslng explanation hue bad Ions bathing
with I gentleman and she liked the water BO
tvell that Bhs stuck to I with occasional visits
to 0 board walk saloon for a little sflmuUnt
Her companion Ifl her In disgust but she was
lot chaurlued Hhe kept up h r course mull
tie kelt
at last there car a reaction when night fell I
md hvr cloihlBit still remained In the littU
hath house the life guards began a search lor a
I onK > Anxious friends rna < ia fre > iu nt visits
to the boa h imt lot a truce of the missing
I female could b peeured Itilghl and early
next morning sleeping sweetly In her Rcant
bathing robe the mltstog woman was found
I under th board waik
I Hloep Is under right conditions a wonderful
ionic lo the human urstiim Pew women real
I ize Its value and > el t It IK I saU that Pattl and
Lucca and all the great singers and actresses
tiidfamou bsautles who like Mine Iteonmler
ima nlruusly boauilf I at an age wbsn lre
Unary notnon retire from thn f stltu scenes of
lir lini OWI l Ibelr oll tiriserteil lieuuty to
I ti Ar the r Mti rr IMJ t nr A
I lumitrnl woman who at W I lmi > h 0 i rl
I I cy 11 t nn In lir IY and skin
ind tho animation iJ gliliood la her
o in deed re < ihm t she bun made It I rule
ill tier life lo rtrl whenever noiltd at U
clock And Aroericaa wnmsn ned t e rest
I and refreshment wbloli sleep atone can elve to I
pverwronpht nerves and overworked systems
If sleep lit I not easily fnduced light physical
I lv
exercise should he taken nightly biMore letlr
Ing until the blood Is directed Intn proper
channels and then upon seeking the conch the
eyelids win closo as naturally as thoo ot a
bealihrulehlld
0 AlA Florence Blythe tbe young woman
whom the California courts bave just declared
to b the only rightful btlr to an estate ot
14000000 hsr guardian proudly Bays that
Florence has alwav inented her own stock
In as and that there Isnt I a girl In CallforcJa
who can make a neater darn than she eAn
Mrs liangirr remarks a wrltorln the Chi
cago Hrrald was discovered by the artist Mil
lols Hero ls I version ot the discovery that I
bate never lon In print I seems that some
IOn of Kuglnnda nobility went to the Isle ot I
Jersey to hunt and fish and Incidentally Mrs
Langtry lade tbclr trip very pleasant Upon i
returning to London one ot thn scions of no I I
bllltr more In gratitude than from any appre I
ciation or knowledge of the beauty of the soon
tobe professional persuaded his mamma to I
Invite his Island entertainer to London an
their guest It was done Mra Langtry I
came with the llralled wardrobe that we
have ben t < dd of so often Among tho
very few dresses was the one black silk
jet and lace sown that IB said to have been I
worn at every reception dinner and ball during
the beautys Ilrst seas n This Inevitable
black gown showed to poneotlon the graceful
cures ol the figure and enhance I the purl I
of the eX11 Ite complexion The marvellous I
classical beauty the wearer did not dawn
u on thoso Londoners however until one
evening at a reception given by thn lady whom
the then obseuro loiscy Lllv was vlltlng
vtllnl
Mlllsls la blddlnrt adieu to bis hostess slld
Madam you have agmldes < as your guest II
That was enough London vvent wild over her
beauty Thsie Is nn exqulslo errhlnc nn rale I
In Prominent art stores by a celebrated Eng
lish artist Komoo and Juliet While H 7s
jot generally kn > wn It Is plainly evident that
Mrs Langtry was tbe model who peneoted the I
artists Idea of Juliet
auuaiiK FASuioiaa ABBOAU
BtrlklBB Ootne of Hinc Kartr Anlnmi
TolUln riie Ilonnnt and Whmt 1 I
Lk lMeit ta nod 8iio NeotalMee
Host of the new eorgo gowns a mae will
plain skirts with one row of braid about the
hem Gold silver red black and white
wblch Is tho latest tint used are all employed
and whatever tbe color it must be matched In
the tnt of the braiding on tbe vest or the shirt
worn In Us place A striking serge of navi
blue boa a narrow rim of scarlet brad about
Its edge a scarlet silk shirt and a jaunty llttla
jacket J faced with the eamo Ilk and with la
pels buttoued back to show their brilliant lining
ing In fair weather but available la case ol
need for protecting the chest
A very pretty white gown of thick clothlike
flannel has a row of gold braid round tbe edge
Its bodice outlined with gold braid and the
sleeves perpendicularly striped with It A white
yachting coat lined with gold Ilk and out
lined with gold braid and a Bailor hat orna
mented with gold braid complete tho costume
Many surprisingly coarse materials rough
of service and suggestive ot horse cloth are
employed with slnguUrly genteel and distin
guished effect arising from the conviction that
none but gentlewomen would dream of affect
ing them Many cowns show spots of contrast
lug color larger than those seen last Tear
Dainty dresses of light wool material fanci
fully made are soon on the decks of houseboats
and the verandas nf summer inns One model
which Is particularly elTectlve Is I navr blue
skirt hung a plainly a possible and tnr
rounded by several rows of black Russian and
gold braid the latter double the width ot the
former the shortwalsted Empire bodice Is of
the new turquolso blue with bands of black
and told round tho iront of the wuUt and
curing lu rows about tie nect
Anutner gown In the same color Is opened In
front and again at the side to show panels of
white oloth Large gilt eyelet boles are punch
ed out In the iloth through wblch gold braid
Is laced tri in side to alda and tied with go d
tugs depending The Meeves which are high
and full f r at the shoulder ww narrow at the
wrist and are slasbvd to be laced across with
Rolil alHo Awhile cloth gnwn has Its softly
fallnl skirt opened In th eo places the edges
of wukh ate bound with white ribbon and
caught down or buttoned to the skirt with
bright brusH buttons Tho full INIAS aro
biaided with gold n1 l over the gathered
badlce Is worn a white zouave of kid edged
with small gold drops
The universal Bailor hat accompanying these
toilets Is occasionally supplanted by a peculiar
urn shan In tie exact form of a ee eaters
wltn an inch taken oil thf brim nnd two lucben I
from tbo depth nf tne crown They are trlni
inti vert little and are decidedly n > tlceable
among the lowcrowned sailors Two daringly
eccentric but fortunately oxoeotlonally beau
tiful woiren appear frequently a outdoor
fctos In oldfashioned nunbonnets with frilled
capes and rtlniy wired crowns frnm which their
fa os pep tlJr with quulntlv charming effect
Thick white gloves nf washable leather and
yellow Kuslan leather or black patent leather
shoes complete the summer girls pretty and
serviceable costume
A reaction Is I at hand In favor of jackets par
tlcuiarv for morning wear and tne tavorlte
morn ng gowns among PArisian Indies are
morrnl cambric or muslin Iud nhort jacket
made foe wool open In front to Bbow a silk
shut ol contrasting nue with ruilles down tho
front tleevI8S1 kets of dull silk back dark
blueor crimsonare worn wit PI etty ede t nv or
muslin or delulue costumes with full slneves
And a Ito Inier on cool eveningswill he seen
handsomely biaided jackets ol dark blue
which pmmlsvs lo he a favorite intumn color
The braiding Is usually of black and black silk
sleeves e nfi 0 utod Greenish gray jackets
will hn braided with fawn pearl era with
lavender and stone color with gold
All the pelerines and inoai jacketsbavehlgh
DAlbertcollars teaching almost to the uiirs
and Inside them will be worn I high tulle rull
A feather boa thiown tarelesxiy about tho
throat adds a piquant touch of style to tho
general offset
Tho materials for tbe earl autumn toilets
are very lliihthued cloth and flannel Inter
woven with coarse Ines of color In plaids and
chfCKH or different shades of blue gray and
mauve strewn with spots about the AI7O of I
sbll Ing A fancy for terra cotta mixtures In
displayed br rngilsh tailors but luo In Its
Ie
various shades of na7 and Orleans promises
to bo thu color pur etfllfnce All those late
rials are made fnr lp simply the jacket bodices
fastei od wltb u double row nf buttons and the
fourreau skirt cut on the cro s
Tho Jeanne d Are Irnck Is the fancy of tho
moment In 1arlsas Introduced fay Hmah Bern
ha dllniher le of the famous Lo olne I he
dress is mudo of ilch mairrlal wonderfully
brocaded In gleaming elusters of lleur de IIor
I royal ifgsr llllei rusfltng In tdlkeu splendor
but ruudu with classic simplicity of outllno
outlno
I and buttunel ut the back
I Quite the newesi thing In necklace was dls
plxHd at a 1 Cell niunlugii In iarln and con
Blsted of I riviere ol diamon Is wblcti crotod
over at tbe biUK anJ I ha i the ends capped with
I two mugiil cent stoneH Ten otber ejuaily
laiiro ana resp onaibt utone wiu unspanned
from the necklace by i exlbie i mini bio wires
and suaied und flashed aninet the wearorB
lock with no vlelbo luonuti of support
Among he many unique dresses displayed
by Iarllm designers Is I one ol white serge
I bordered v Itli whl o An rnkniin and eiuboratoly
embroidered in while and nnl brail und
uiiuther moiesuriulH ngstlll In ot blu shgrax
mator al dsda lim he mat kings nnd guueml
01 eo nl I crucodilii leather Loth toilet uor
nvioinpanled bi feathr bows und soft felt hata
ladou ultli heavy plumoj
A ourloiifly pretty nnd novel material has
just leen inir ducud fur 1 llnl IIIUOBand It
1delkaiely lilnlud ilmt rs VI roth Ieunaut
btanley has Hit the na it of appioval upon I by
employing I in he > wedding iiinkun it U a
I kind ol silvur kid voryno und b autlful and
seeuiu to merit succaaa und popularity
There Is Mill a furor for frilling and the
collarette triumph on all sid Il I eucr feailinr
lulls Mi xren emi n the great race week but In
net und lissu thai are mine the rage i uhe bus
I been abundonnd us loo lershlle i l a tls no
uud buudh oi insoian ict propur d with a
little embroidered edge ut once 111 to iho
I tOUI hand verv ourable of wiilch lour or llvo
yards HI required f racolnrette aiepleatul
lu three raws sud sewed on lie band nf ilbbun
which pauses about he ek and IH Hod lu
long la8el the back ColluiettrB composed
nf a row of largo sutln nr velvet roe ale also
Iso
mHda by sewing Ibs lower devoid of their
mems cliisa ad fat sen I nst thu ribbon wtikh
ties at the back as with the lisas ruttit
Plouncve of lace and other materials grow In
favor aud mOM of the iaierdresstnihaveeliber
lber
I rue h Ing I frill I or a succession pi ounce at
tbw loot luo nf the leader of taebiou ap I
ixiaied at I outdoor IMlhal l reo ntiy In a
I Prlnrrss robe of Una lellon cloth encircled
nbout tne hem and tieek an well with vouml
nnu ruclungs of white trap Poulard cos
I tumes have plsllea I ounce ollaeo sewn on In
slliiblly aivenluiited jemoons and muslin
unnn tiavH I ounces I m hrold > > rr fulled on
1 brlbt ribbon In thnkhlrs Vuluiiblt lace
Id ii mlol not b ru 1 ounced on in pUln
Kkrt I little sluull fl nod eaih llcuuco U I
turned nt tbe sl > iu lu u little cniiuille
which mukrs the efleot of a CHscade ol
laceaelbei lal < > no above the oiber In I all
cases bere lace Is I us d t ornament a skirt It
I ihould appear aUo la the trlmmlnd of the bod
A t A
0r
1
ice either In the form ot sleeves I and chem
isette loose jacket f i nnts or trillings Heverlty
nenis to have roacbcd Its limit and the roae
tlon to frills and iroufrnu hns already set In
wltb cheerful ecthuslam Few women are
sufficiently well moulded tn wear advanta
geously the modes of the present ea on while
even u very ordinary bit of femininity so far as
lure Is concerned is a dellgut ti the eye In a
flutter of dainty Ince and rlbb m softly draped
and fulled toco eeal her deflclem Iss and em
phasize her delicate womauly charm
The entomological craze In bonnot decora
tion Increases as t be seaon advances and but
terflies anil dragon files con t nue to be favorites
AlaigoKoid butterlly with wings nline A
filigree Kuproried by a still Isrgei black lace
but erllv behind It lorms tho entire substance
of a dress hat A dragon n tal upward
against a knot of rale gray chltTon mnamrnts
one bonnet natural bees on a graygreen
crflie ground d cotulo Oither and wasps eo
11111
realistic a to make ono apprehensive iiulver
ing on a i pette of brnwn crtpo ore nn a third
iuntfttlo lacetrimmed hnta laden with
orchids have whnlo Hooks or tbese bntterllles
qu verlnit on the flower srravs Rnd lor fair
hair have folds nf green velvet under the brim
litidesinaldn hath are mad of fine white
horse hair which looks like mlver braid whie
nate crumpled hrlms ando owns covered with
flowers or feathers from whloh fall longfloat
rower of tulle Bunches of Illlnof ihval
ley blend with greon velvet Ile the gleaming
white horohalr LonneU while largai anil bo
coming shapesln black horse hair an trimmed
with popples
Tho mot distinguished stylo In bonnets Is I
suggestive of Grecian head dress s nnd Is I ox
tremeiy becoming as well as nr removed from
tno ordinary ooncettlon of the usual bonnet
A bon et furmnil on a Greek model has a
wreath or purplish ros s resting onaoleoeof
embroldomd nl and I
oftly pleated forming
a point over the forehead the whole tied with
lo flely knotted velvet trlngs I I wih
10Tt Veuve bqniet efsI a 1arlslan novelty so
called from Its lone streamers oi tnllo floating
out like n widows veil The bonnet Irself is
black luce and veils with pink rose in Ieol front
1 he Montabelln hat is also new and Is made
of crinoline with a broad brim In front almost
covered with rows on rows of sweet peas of
lul every Odolt color reproducing nature with wonder
Highest of all in leavening strcngtl > U S Gov Report 1889
BAKING
POWDER
ABSOLUTE PURE
TUB JN CIUNXl l
A Learned Frotrmmnr Look Into the C
ot Fecrntrle Hurnltii VaS
The young Hungarian Countess SsroltaVay
coed her mad career lost January Without
money and without credit shattered by dissi
pation and disheartened by disappointment
routratnttd at every turn by the Inflexible hand
of the law and notorious beyond any othai
European woman of I er gennrntlon she then
took refuge from tho sporting world In tho se
clusion of alrlendn house In Iestb Bho ab
jured drinking betting and gambling fight
Ing duelling and dobt making She contin
ued to wear trousers and cutaways but ceased
ceaBol
to woo and Ir young women under such false
pretences Hor retirement from the sporting
world wblch she had bel pod to lead caused the
I revival of many reminiscences of hor bizarre
record In the high life of Vienna Pesth and
Prague But the Countess and her family and
friends kept their mouths shut so tight con
cerning her carousals that only desultory bits
of her blutory could be picked UP here and
there br the continental dalllos
COUSTIBS SAKOLTA VAT
llecently however Prof Von KrafTtEblmr
got at tbe records of the Vav family from the
tenth century founder down to Counte s Sa
r lift and collected from them the facts or a
psychological anil iitivBiologicalstndt whloh
be has just published Ills hook Is far from
being as heavy and abstract as Its title might
Indicate It cnnta ns a wealth of raw material
foi Blraonpure gossip In the liner drawing
rooms nf Emperor Franz Joephs subjects
Countess Sarolta ny was born In InSft just
nine > ears after her mo tiers msrrlaoo tier
father was Count Ladlslos Vay a General and
nn Imperial Chamberlain He had waited so
long and with BI great anxiety for the tdrth of
an hnlr that when Barolta came her mother
feared to tell him that his llrstborn was only a
grl Wih the aid of the nure she concealed
from him the sex of tie ihlld and as time
passed took all t e nocessan precautions that
0 calon demiinded to keun up tne de option
Barolta went into knlckmboekers and round
abouiB at tbe aa of 5 played boys games
got the elements of a bnys educa ion
and when 12 venrs nf age cmud hunt
flan and lend as iould towbmnot her ago In
her 14th year her father docldol to send her
tn a milltaiy sch > nl Tn pritent this her
mother wa obliged to confess nil The Count
BWKllowe i h anger and hagrln and tried at
once M repair thn tors turvy condition of his
family aililrs IJF pulling suroita lio girls
clothes cnllg her Candor and sendlgber
Oltoactrl BBchool In vain aro la rjfuied
tn > e transloi ion I ho tale Int > tier trnucers
and JHcken whenever she gut achanco and
led her parent a fx > life In hor ioiiHiunl en
dvHvorn Ingot rid of the 11 ti Icons th y rldto
k > eponber Sh besougnt her fit or tn allow
her t e ler the llnnved II iSHUT Iteglment Ills
refusal wa the last straw and Mio prncalmed
herlntentlou < o tear up nil ustrinwlth her
pranks HH H on n < > ilm h nnniK of ago
Bhe kept bor word faith ullv On the flrst
day of her ma orlti sh swung out Into the
world lo s cu away Iglit trnuiera and a hlirli
hat and begun a areor of unimcduntod dis
sipation Bbedl i nvoytlilfig and dl I It wltb a
rest thnt made her tli inst notmlous person
In the fat l elruleh of Vienna Slit tot head
over he l In debt nnd > o extricate herself
forged ernbeled nnl hiolo onag and cule
ritlll bur oredltor wnre nul > hit f natlstleil and
hounded her constantly They llnally drove
her to a step that < au od hei arrest on n doen
different char o and ova i > u illy hor e Iro
men1 Toixtnciita herself mauled Murle
Kngelhardt u boa illui livearold elrl whoui
t > ha met at n sum ner hot 1 at U > rther
see last lull 1npn 1 ngulhardt an
mmy contrai inr thought of i nrso tha
his daughter was miirimc a real i ount
Handor V ay and vris so de Iguted to havo her
rapture a tlHe not IIH n < e her a dowry of
SSiiniiUO ihemnirlago nas eeluhrated lth
tremendous pomp sipli as only n slmine Con
llneniiil cl Iren wlio hns cnrrulled a noblnnii n
tor his daughter knows lion to blblt wliu
pro iir Impreiilven s 1 ho on O K and
Jlnrlo vvunt on a uuddlng loiirnov Tho Conni
ess throw unny tho dowry orapidly tnai every
one HH > nued hrurJ nf hor showy o truva
ganit Lo cradlior surrounded hvr tbe vic
tim of her dishonest breau to cull lor In
demnll ntlou fur theli losses and n general
exposure follood Despite nil Ids Marie
iluiifMst lo the nuntesii und left her only
when compelled to do so ID hurpnren s
b rolla > r haudor wax I oprlsormd In Klag
enlur h was de rl ed of the rig it tn contract
legal rteblu and uau OtoaUnd w th ha In
Skua asylum Kho was released aflnr two
vveeko of imarceruilon nd sought directly
the quiet ol ihehoUBO of bur friend Iraulelu
L > eky In 1esth
Jhe Idlosrncrnclfs of the Counles Barolta
which are back o ull tin BO curious feaiurssln
herrurver are ascribed by Irnf KrufTil bliiu
10 heredity A blst r of her grundmnh r ho
has discovered was hysterical souttmbullntlo
nnd lay seveuteen ream In b < d merely t
cause she Imiigluud that shu bad hll dlseaxe
Anothergrandiiunt pa sad ten yoHrfi In bed
beiausn uhe Imnglnod hom < ftube B ilferlng
frnm an Inonrable dlseisv Her rrandniMlmr
wune e I Irom tliiloluniuii thin acu aiii ahlo
In hsr drxwngroom nu curm I Uheuotvr i
perou laid an ilcle on llim lubie whu trie
It I cursed It Is t r d itnd hurried wii
the article Into un ad nlnlni ro m wliicli nbe
railed tbu lack I Immboi Tho key In Inn
chamber slid iunled In heritirium theday
tlmu and nt nlgnt kupi It un ler h r 11 low
A er her death a d en tihi < i or Iimsnu
1 n hi n > tni und goil plen s uure omul u In
black rn m A fourth craiula nl d 1 nt u law
tlervHIISok o > dum hsr r 0111 forfour
nar Hud nel herwashei lirr e > f nor combed
ber hair All tb > e women woi however
clever well educated and emlable buroita
mother was nsrvuus aud fell 111 wbanever stit
was outdoor In the moonlight Ono branch of
the mothers family was given over entirely to
spiritualism Four cousins un tho mothers
elde shot themselves
The majority nl the members of the Vay
family have been persons of unusual talents
Barolias fat ber occupied for a long tlmo posts
under the Austrian Government was a mili
tary man of considerable genius and was a
favorlt nt the Viennese oourt lie lost his
nigh position however on account of hsi
growing eccentricity of behavior and his Incli
nation to throw away all money thm came to
his hands In throe years he squandered a
million and then fell out of public life
Haioltaa aunt on the Vay sld who lives In
DtoKden partakes of the common eocentrlotlr
of the family While Naroila In tier thirteenth
year was at her grandmothers house she was
encouraged to play all sorts of high links In
her masculine dlgulse tn make love to an
Lngllsb girl of sixteen and llnally to elope
with her although the grandmother kuew
from tha first of the deception
The desire of Snrnlta to appear to be a man
has always amounted to n partial mental de
rangement Prof hrafftliblng says Bho lought
Blx duels during tho maddest part oi her ca
tett with Viennesenflioernnnd students who
reproached her nllh her sex Hhe Insulted
several more who discreetly decline to chal
lenge the prowess ol nor arm Hhe has been
mnrrleil by priests and civil ofTlters to no
fewer than nine women betide Marie Lngcl
hardt All of thoo women have seemed to
catch tho contagion of their own hallucina
tion Hlxof them htlll live In Vienna an di
vorced Countesses Vay Tno have tile I to
bring suits for alimony and one Is trying hard
to get Hurolta back to live with her ra olta
however still tries she says to remain faithful
to her last wile beautiful Marie I she ex
claimed recently 1 dieam of yon every
night I hate everything that reminds mo
of my womanhood rim Bald to a friend of tho
Professor1 I would formally Insult a man
who called me Connie s A trlend who re
minded me of my sex I would never epeuk to
again
Nevertheless the Countess Sarolta has small
auectlon tnr mankind I have nsver felt the
slightest Inclination tn > ecome well acquaint
ed with any young man she exclaimed As
the years pass by 1 become more nnd more
convinced that none of them Is worthy nr my
friendship When I do associate with men
especially In the society of wnmsn 1 prefer
thoso of a plain exterior because then I run
no rlk of being cast In the shade The Idea
that a woman could prefer any oi bar man tn
me has always ca ise 1 mo tho deepot pings of
jealousy In selecting my companions among
women I have always chosen the Intelligent
rather than tbe beautiful 1 bavo an Inex
pressible deestatlon of womens clothes and
In geuernl agalnt everything leminlne so far
as It concerns me alone On the other hand
wLore others are ronoernod I love only those
of tle gentler sex
Prof KrafTtEldng ban also drawn snme con
clusions from tha formation of the Countess
Barnltan handwriting The strokes he
Bays show llrmness and certainty They are
thoroughly masculine A cloao analysis ro
veals tbeso characteristics Wild passion
hatred and opposition against everything
which partakes of the nature of heartfelt lova
an entire lack of poetic sentiment of the senti
mental sort nobllln of aspirations enthu
siasm for everything beautiful nnd noble a
keen mind for science and tbe lino ars Tho
contents of her manuscripts betray wide read
Ing In the cmslea of all languages Kho
quotes fieelr from tbe poets historians and
ethical writers of nil countries Her poetical
and other literary works are far abovo medi
ocrity For several years she has contributed
numerous articles of high merit to four
Mnnnesa mngatlnes of wide circulation and
considerable i romlnence
The Countess Barolta ay Is a woman of Im
posing presence Uhe Is of medium height
and has limbs of masculine development Her
Bhnulde 8 aro heavy her chest Is broad Her
hair I short cirly and almost black Her
nose turns un si jhtlr and her mouth has tho
curves ot Cupid bow Although heryaarsof dis
sipation have cut deep lines In ber fuco sho Is
still handsome and looks like a boy ot 21
10 FOUND A RFTTAUT ZBK1T
The Dee llolnsi Exporlacnt to be Trani
fcrml to the Manor Booth
from Vu Cto4J > m0craL
DEsMorsER Aug 10 Secretary Ernest I
Oaston of the Socialistic and Cooperative Com
pany organized In thin < Ity on tbe ideas of hd
ward Bellamy started in company w Ih E D
hmlth toe Louisiana lost night to lookups
location for tne colony Bolore starting he
stated to H reporter
We have no uuthorltv to bind the company
In any way but ar exported to Inve tigate
tbe merts of tbe various points of thu country
visited Our report will bu submitted to all the
member of the companyand a final location
determined by a majority vote a ter ouelul
Investigation and study of the advan
tages oi different sections of the coun
try The piojectors havo unanimously
decided that the new Bouth is the most prom
ising Held rnr Its operations te expect to go
to New Iberia In the southern pnrilon of Louis
iana where we understand there Is a large
body of lertlle land which we o n get veiy
cheap Ibe project Is In > uch shaue now
that I can safely say that the o > lony will be
Blurted Ju t bow many families w will take
with us In hard to stale as we bave received
many letters from pe iple who contemplate
joining yet who have not bad time to title thu
necessary steps From this City about inn
famlllax go bv tbe middle or last ol October and
I think there will be fltleoi morn from other
localities I have received let ers from nearly
every btate In tbe Lnlnn Inquiring about tho
plans with a view to becoming mem bor
Some of them aro ot course from cranks
Thn most seem to b In earnest
There need be no fears of too many Fifty
men can by asso latlon or capital and division
and B > 8temallZHtlon of their labor accomplish
10 i times a > much as one man can alone Wo
hold that all wealth Is the product ol labor ex
ponded on natural resources and that the
community of state Bho Hd hold thne natural
resnurciH tn trust for the benefit o the whole
peopm and that every mnn should bave Irfi
opportunity to lahoi thereon We hold further
that s It Is only through society and a cln
tlon that man can do elTectlve labor and re
ceive the beneilt of that dliersiileatlon of
Industries wtnoh makes comtori nnd luxury
possible bat he owes for tbn maintenance
of society In pr portion to the bunettt
ha has received Under our plan the
man of simple tastes con work enough to
fmlUly his desires and the others will be
compelled to work as much moie as their
tiistes aro more expensive No restriction
are i laced upon tbe manner In which any
member may u < e his earnings ex ent thai he
cannot u e them lo oppress some other mem
bur Hw cannot hut corn any land and charge
the company or any member thereof rental
He tuny n t loan at Inteiebt to the company or
any member thereof He mm not nuance In
private product on tor profit employ hi fel
low membe s and make a profit of ot their
work but he may UBM It In nny manner that
gives him pensure and harms no one olse He
may buy nnd drive fast horeit he may enter
tain expensively he mnv gather around him
works of art and tilings nf beauty ho may
KIVA to his friend or bequeath to hU heirs
Liich mem er will own bit own lions bavo
his famllt lire Oi coure he will build on oom
pan > ground but If he livys he will bu pnd
tho value f his Improvement in onn sonso
It ought tn be vailed a PUS ness enterprise
It will bo a i IninairUl anI productive
community In the strictest euo in the work
of getting a living Well le united aud no
member will bu p rinlt od tnoomp tn wlih Iho
Hocltfty Ours will be a o > nmuntstl B elety
just as railway cornp inl s are Ak to thn de
tails 11 our irgnnirition Wi < are nrgnnle I In o
a joint Block i omany our declarud objeIB
ate aInr ns poiBltde to secure ihi organiza
tion of H society wherein b tweoi the munibers
It Khali be unUw ul t take Interest profit or
rnt where all iihor shall be systematize I nnd
Hhall Ie paid Its lull value where thi admlnls
tratlon nf flulrs shall be democratic nnd ully
within the conirol of the member lha com
pany will no ml li Mis machinery Block nnd
merchandise engage In agriculture fruit
Block raising tuauu ucturlng uiid msrchan
Ulliig will lay out towns und villages erect
public andprivate bull lings r ci water gnu
nnl electric light works build eiiulp and
operate I nosnr transportation nnd communi
cation estub l > h proper inolbodH oi illt bil
lion trniiHiiortniloii an Btorugo Ks nlillsb u
jusisjstemof eredli account ami exoiuugu
Issue ecrlii tn lib iiom ini In i nyment for n r
lcB rendered or uwtorlal furnl hud tho com
liany provido tor Hiu nrbltiatlon ni ju i set
tl in u > ol disputes be < e < tn lu memlwrs
unl rc Its rul H and re ulafinna t sniia
ble nonHllles uml n nvldn for Urn educii Ion
o Its rneujber and their lumnies m propur
phyalcul mental muni and arUtle hiios
One in un limy hold ouu sbaro and It l n n
t a Bteruble mrely eutitiini tb > holder
thereof t > renldeu u and omidumient on ihu
frmudsir the union t jnd un aijual hhi o in
the p MI < IOII nnd rMiegcfc of tbjumn nv
vlv of menibpr ore entll l in oma
members bui bnve no vot The e will b a
aeiimjuiHiif rales of wa s Ixod nco ling lo
th kind or labor skill reijinred nnd tlm uws
of > > PI nn i demand i company will
kueii u Kinre ut win puroriiii s rimy ninde
vvltfi oiiipuiiys Urn chu ko lluruwlll l >
nooliarn reiKirmiiml o mu lw f d
company muy einploy any other iueiu < r x
iei > t as A hy lf ti mlIster or d < inestlo
TosrB s no relUlous object In view eaeb
SeaMr Uttlr to think at o
rim fttur AumntLUtt XOHPKDO
Stilt Another D Tte Intended for the D
trilellon ot nonllle
X Aug 31 Tho popularity of the
wellknown Whttehead torpedo In Knglml
was threatened some time ago by the success
whloh attended the Invention of Mr Brennrvn
a young Australian Experiments conducts
at Bheorness showed that this new weapon had
a very high speed could bo steoted with a good
degree of accuracy through a considerable
distance aud could carry a very large ex
plosive charge Ono of Its characteristic
features was lu being propelled by connection
with a steam englno stationed on tho shore
Within tho torpedo worn two colls ot wire
w und on spindles each operating upon tha
Bhaltlng of tho ecrow propeller which drove tha
torpedo forward The ends of these wires woro
made fast Jo drums on the shore engine so
that tbo winding up of tho wires on the latter
correspondingly unwound them on the torpedo
reels nnd set tho screws i evolving BO driving
the torpedo ahead The steering was effected
by hauling harder on one or other of the wires
While It was confidently predicted at flrst
that the Ilrennan torpedo would supersede
the VThltoheni tho Harvii and other devices
ono great objection promptly made to t was
Its bnlng devised at least primarily for work
Ing from a fixed point as It required ft special
engine so that as one of the Urltlsh mtlltarr
> apeiH sal I tho hostile ship must come to It
flrst However tho BBIIIO line of torpedo In
vention has recently been followed by another
Australian Mr Muiphy nf Melbourne altliojgb
employing different means ThU also 1s In
tended fora coaat torpedo but It In said that
Its apparatus may be raoro rapidly transported
from point to point than thu ilrennann nnd sot
up against au eneinv with briefer PI spiral Ions
The range aiso Is remarkable It lls claim ot
two and onehalf miles can be accepted la
shape It resembles tha Whltehead Ono char
acteristic feature la Its method of using as n
motor compressed air of which a very large
amount Is stored In tho muchlno and con
nected by tbe usual shafting with a four
bladod propeller The contiol of tho motor
from the shore station or floating battery Is ef
fected by oloctrlo wires Theomblnod useot
compressed air and electricity promises to be
very effective and If It be true as Is uried
that the ncos device can bo BO modified H to ba
used on torpedo boats and on ships In general
It is likely to boomo efllcleni
Ihe utilization of the space In this Victoria
torpedo NS It IB oulied Is uotlcenble It la
about twenty our feet long und ha the usual
vertical and horizontil rudders beside o dor
sal tin At the head of tbe torpedo of course
Is the explosive charge Then comes an In
geniouB device by which our small chambers
are connected by a piston with tue compressed
air chamber a sen valve gradually letting the
water into those chambers In succession eo
that the Incroasud bun > ancy c nsed by the ex >
peiidliureutu tupressed air may be counter
balanced by the weight of tbo water thus ad
mitted This will keep the torpedo BO balanced
a ul at such a depth us to eiilkn the oboet la
the way desired The plan biconies tha rnoro
nuiesnry us this torpo 10 Is designed for go
Ing at various rates of peed and even ot stop
ping when roijulrr I From tbe head of tbe tor
poloa pre pa d phosphoric Bubs ano passes
through a tube to the dorsal In and
gives out a light nnd emoke enabling those
who are sending the tori > edo to watch Its
whereabout for a long distance If desired
heit boulnd the explosive charge orines a
chntnbei nine fuel long containing the com
pressed air wblch nun a oresure oi 2000
pounds to be square Inch In the roar of that
U an iiHulated coiled table 1200 yards long
wblch runs out through a tube under the tor
pedo but as i his would furnlsb wire euonva
for only a small part of the tnnge the remain
der Is held nt tbe firing station and au Inge
nious arrangement allows It to I paid out
only fiom tho siiure nt first and then slmoU
tanonusly from Hut torpedo reel and the thorn
rol when a curtain amount of speed IB ob
tained Dnlnil tbe drum for th losuUted
elo trie wlro In tho torpedo come three electro
motors acting upon the torped i mechanism
through tho medium of a colled epiingand a
ratclie Ibe former contains a steady and
trustworthy stored force hlle the latter
allows a fixed am Hint of action onlr
iacli time tho electric current passes
thr > ucb the wlrus Tne operator can tliro
foro calculate with a roisonnhle degree of pre
cision the position nnd progress of the torpedo
when submerged and no lo gor trncea le br
the eye The special Importance nf thin duvlca
of the spring und ratchet U Its legulut nitlha
Btrering within a definite and cnlcuUole limit
for ono of the tbiee motors acts dlreitly upott
the vertical rudder Another moioi of course
Is connected with the compre od air chamber
and by acting on the vtlve allows a g enter or
lest forco tn ba lommunlvated to the Diopeller
and hence controls he speed It can a so en
tirely stop tho torpedo and then fiot It gott g
Tills wlro which regulates tho speed aUo de
termine tlie puilng nut nf the colled canla
from the torpmlo real The remaining wire
will oi plod o the torpodo At tha deslroi mo
ment nnd Is also connected with apparatus
for bringing It otbesunacn
ilia purpose of this contrivance IB ol
course to ollnw a shin In its moteinents so
that the lo pe lo r > an > > e exploded acaiust it no
matter wha tha chango of rit In the latter s
steaming afte tin torp d > bas once been
alined nnd discharge 1 Apparen ly thodovlcs
hisnot ynr bien offlelally tried in England
and indeed u specimen lor the purpose was
at the latest accounts still In course of coa
Btructlon there Iosslb y tnerefore tbe dU
appointments tvlilh have attended eo many
now torpedo Inventions will be experienced by
this one Hut It U at least Interesting as
show nc the pers stem nffoits to make torpo
dneu ho formidable weapons which they are
evidently capable nf becoming and some of Its
features muy clve hints 10 our own Inventors
Hbn Itunp n MleMni nutoe
from r9 ctiitiyt ntmld
To seo a WOMIV running an engine I
life Is a gentiln nooliy Ihj lairaxoo1
slonnliy ru engines In IIOVIM on too stage
and so nn but a real llxn foin lie ongl iciru a
now b n itlon Or cntire tiiU one is In thl
cngn and oi course HIIO U young nnd pretty
Thoy alwa s are Tie r i nunr of th enso U
huvrover eut out by the roldbloodud announce
ment that sh Is n > dolnr it tn save a busnn id
loier or latnnrrt Ufa or II lorty Bh U puielr
i mercenary The s ipend d awn al thuenl of
euih week Is a I that slie Is after Her name IS
not known li > rhsn < t its Is wnere the rniuun
tio part oomon In Perhaps othnrwlso lie this
or tha n It may sh > IB a fl ish and blood r al
Ity hens rop irt < r forth ilf t rf colled it
the place whore thl < noelty works he stated
I hibiislnsss tiatouni lady clar an 1 tnkeJ
I toBeqtho vv > mm wnn run tho engine
Alailylsour engineor tltieni I tho clerk
but uhe Is iuy an I i > an t iee nny roporturs
LnnIn beten wis aked
o wis the answer hhe wl see no one
unless it Is an examiner of engineers and tboa
Bhe vvlil li found rovly an 1 nuxioui to unstver
all iuotlgn
Thftadjf onslnesr us she Is syled has had
Phnrje f tli Ilio lino Laundry engine
for about thrau years dunnr winn time she
had no trou In ani hns apparently hen well
able to atten 1 tn all thu liillett dvo vin < upon
liur Hur i > rl iclivnl claim for cnm utency
however Is that xba h > ts taken he engine
atmrt aud pluu i It lo utber again with ut
H rl < msl > dnmajln It omno eat parts or
detracting t niu It p wer ncslons lo be
piopoundno to n r hy tnu reponor w ro fur
niittioa hy an engineer but sho declined to un
ewer am nuhti n nt nil uule > > < thny came
from thn Hoard of 1iglneers flits nil rl3
wrrn regarding h r knowledge of oy in llgurs
on hor B y valv Ii r hollers homaimwer
and h r engines h rb p wer Tnat shs can
demns rn e properly in AP tbese Intili acini
Hhw dne not loubi and I anxious lo have the
Hoard of lanmtuurs VM on her cas
Up JumpeJ u Hk Ulon lldilnd Ibe 1ulrlt
The First Danilst Church ultuatel at th
cnrnerol llilri a > enu unj MX en h street
notlrm tvitKthe H on nf u s a n fir and
Bnerlleglous dl turbaiio during tho s irilcss
hunday vialng The pitor fliu lie A U
Prentice wa lu the pulpit pione i tl Ills
Hiindar veiling dlscourrt when u lnly a
noise was h rd lu lie vlcnlty oi hU lurga
o uir mniBdittHlr biiiiiiid the pulpit 1 i n
ylliunnjp n skeleton api > ea ad HI i ilxng
ling arniH nm 1 > 4 dlrsutly over < lalr
hav ii u ooiii from below I istottd of a re ait
would b Imagined n rm n itmrinii > i li > u
or worxlilp fliuenuur < it Inn ware i if iii < i
Hd BUUIH screaming an i othe i mm u The
V Jlr lraulc oontlnuvd ln n urie
without lurtliu Inte r n
In BHilg n h < nd Hiv tltnlet n tn In of
1iipu neall und iirBoij nrrnrur H I w
fVldBiitiy IiuvOkuf y Ibey u d en r
the bit OIHU > liy B Id uoor and hut nc the
aaniKd nb a cord usiensd to ib
chair Ifae latier WAS thrown down t lr acil
at tbe tame time Ibe sktlston appesred

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