The sun. [volume], November 08, 1891, Image 21

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i "'"""' l ' &' -"'In
I Pages SI 38. ' Qj j) v'tttlL Pages ' SI 38. ; 1 J
I NEW YORK, SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 8, 1891. ,. vf i
I MARE TWAIN.
I The First of His Letters
to The Sun.
tftterratitn at Alt, (ft hra.lw tf tie
RIubmUcs WnatlMH f 6nr
Hut gtritss limrlit.
OrHlU WX At Jatbr.
iu-LK-BAiw, - -otJnlr thli it an en
banting place it is a strong word, bat 1 think
the facts Juttltr It True, there fa rabble of
obllltiee Wr and Utile, hns all the Urn, ul
efton a king or two; but as thoto behave olt
aloelyand also keep mainly to themselvsi.
tber aro tittle or ao annoyance. And then a
king raakoa the beet advertisement there is,
and the cheapest All he eosta fi a reception
at the station by the Mayor and the police In
I their Bander uniform. shop-front doooratlona
along the route from station to hotel, brae
band at the hotel, fireworks la the evening,
bee bath Id tho morning. This b the whole
expense! and In return for it he foe away
from here with the broad of hie bask meta
phorically stonollted over with display ad..
whloh shout to all the nations of the earth-as-elated
br the tolsgmph!
' ': s&ntsstltiarrtttf MAtoUs-Rstnii :
: cnui.diaooiibed, NtrTMbrdpt :
AUDinttn wrifomsa-aas MtlarieHM fttsa :
: r me tnvntr raMrart tboool
We leave nature' noble Cliffs and crags uu
defiled and unlnsultod by the advertiser'
paint brush. Wo aso the bask of r king, whloh
Is bettor und properer. and more effective too,
for tho cliff stays still and f ow seo It, but the
klnc moves sCrosB tho fields of (he world, and
U visible from all points like a constellation.
We are out of kings this week, bnt one will be
tone toon possibly his Satanic Majesty of
BussIb. Thero'B a colossus for rout A ays
teriiitt sud terrtblo form that towers up Into
unsoarohablu space and casts a shadow across
tho universe llkoa planet In eclipse. There
will bo but one absorbing epootacle In this
world when we stencil him and start him out
This 13 an old valley, this of Ale both In the
history of man and the geological records of
Us rooks. Its Utile lake of Bourgot carries
thn human history bock to the lake dwellers,
furnishing seven croups Of their habitations,
ami Dr. William Wakefield says In hi later
sstlws local culde book that the mountains
roond about furnish, "gMoglcatly, a veritable
tpilome of (he globe." The stratified chapters
of the onrth's history are clearly and per
manently Written on the sides of the roaring
bulk of the Cent du Chad but many of the
IsT'Te nf race, religion, and government,
which In tdrn have flourished and perished
here between the lake dweller of several
thousand years ago add the Trench republi
can of to-day. are Ill-defined nod unlnformlng
br comparison. There were Several varieties
of ptgane. They went their way. one
after the other, down into night and
oblivion, leaving no account of thorn
telt, no memorials. Tho Romans nr
lived. 3400 years ago : other parts of France
ore ridn'with remembrances of their, eight
centuries of oecn.patl6A. bnt not man? dre
hero. Other pagans followed the Bomans. By
and hy Christianity arrived, some 400 years
after the Umo of Christ The lone" procession
of races, languages, religions, and dynasties
demolished each -other's monuments and ob
literated ettdh other's roeords It is man's
way. always,
As a ratult nothing Is left nf the handiwork
of tho remoter Inhabitants of thn region except
(da construction of tho lake dwellers and some
HoTian oddsnndonds. There Upartof a small
Roman temple, there is part of a Roman bath,
there is a graceful and bsttorod Roman arch.
It stands oa a turly I?1 over the way from
tho present great bath house, it surrounded by
magnolia trota, and Is both a picturesque and
sufftontlvo object It has stood tlicro somo
l.M'Xiinnre It nearest neighbor, not twonty
Mots away. Is a Cat hollo nhtlrch. They Are
symbols of the two chief eras in the history of
A.K Yen. and of tho European world, liudge
tl1.1t the venerable aroli U held In reverent ea
team br oterybudy. and that this esteem Is its
(Eflli'li'nt p.r..tertlon from insult, for It Is the
only Dithlleiitiucturo I have yetseon In France
whl ih larks tlu sign, "It is forbidden to post
bill hero." Its neighbor, the church, hns
that sign on m r tlmn ono of It, sldoe and
other algnt, tnu, foriilddlng rertitlu other sorts
of dcvcrutlon.
The arclt's next nearest neighbor j st nt Its
elbow, Ilk? tlm ohurchls tho tolecmph offlcc.
Ko thero you hsvo tho tliffo great eras
hnnehtxl togother the era of War. tho era of
The tgY, the era of liunlne. You pass un
der tho nh. And tho burlud CftMrs seem to
rise from tiiadust of tho centuries and flit be
fore you: you pass by that old batterod
ohureli, and uro in touch wltntho middle ages,
and with anothor htop youcitn put down ten
francs and shuko hands tIUi Oshkosh under
thoAUantJc.
It Is curious to think wiiut oimngus tho .ant
I of the thn"! symbols lands Mr: ohnnjros In
men's way-, and thoitKlit?, uhaiigi! in mate
rial oIUHxutlon, ohouvon In tliu Dolr--ir In
raen'ii vonct-ptlon of tho i)olty. if that Is au ox
actor Way Of putting It Tho second of (ho
symbols arrived In the earth at a tlm When
ton Deity's possastlons oonnlxtod of a small
sky freckled with musttrd seed sturs, and
un.hr It a patch of landed odtate not so big as
tho holdings of tno Czar to-day, and all Ills
tluio was taken tip in trying to keep
a handful of Jaws In somu sort of order ex
actly tho ssmo number of them that tho Csar
has lately been dealing with In a more abrupt
andfarlesslovlognndlong-suffcrlngwar. At
a latnr time a time within all eld men's
memories the Doltr was otherwise engaged.
He was dreaming Ills eternities away on Ills
(treat Whl to Throne, steeped In the soft bliss
of hymns of proiso wafted aloft witnout ceasing
from choirs of ransomed eoals, Presbyterians
ami the rest This was a Deity proper enough
to the size and condition of tilings, no doubt a
provincial deity with provincial tastes. The
chance slnoo has been Inoonoeivably vast
Bhemplro lias boon unimaginably enlarged.
To-duy He II master of at universe made up of
myriads upon myriads of glgantio suns, and
smonif thorn, lost In that limitless sea of light
floats that atom. Ills oartb, whloh onoe seemed
so good and satisfactory and oost so many
days of patient labor to build, la a mere oork
adrift In the waters of a shorolosa Atlantic.
This is the business era, and no doubt Be la
Covernlng His huge empire now, not by dream
log (he time away In the burs of hymning
choirs, with occasional explosions of arbitrary
power dlsproportlonod to the sire of tho an-
noy.tuoo. but by applying laws of a sort prop-
r and necessary to tho sano and sucoessful
management of a complex and prodigious es
KM tstllshment and by seeing to it that the exact
H and constant operation of these laws Is not in-
terfered with for the accommodation of any
Individual or political or religious faction or
nation.
Mighty has bften the advance of tho nations
siulthollhcrulirntioiirirthoiiuht. A result of
It t a chaugetl Hclty. a DMty of n dignity And
ruMltultr r,ron6rtl6ncd tu the majesty of III
H 'No data; Mark it laoat Itl'tfalir.-I'i). Sw.
Ml
1
offloe and the magnitude of Ilia empire, a Dolty
who has been freed from a hundred fretting
chains and will in time be treed from the rest
by (he several eccleslastloal bodies) who have
these matters la charge, tt was. without
doubt a mistake and a step baokward when
the Presbyterian Synods of Amerloa lately de
id ed. by vote, to leave Him still embarrassed
with the dogma of Infant damnation. Situated
as we are, wo cannot at present know with bow
much of anxiety Be watched the balloting, nor
with how much of grieved disappointment Be
observed the result
Well all these era above spoken of are
modern, they are of last week, they areof yes
terday, tbojr are of this morning, so to speak.
The spring, the healing waters that gush up
from under this hillside village. Indeed are an
cient: (hey. Indeed, are a genuine antiaulty:
they antedate all those fresh human matters
by processions of centuries: they were born
with tho fossils of the Dent da Chat and they
have been always limpid and always abun
dant They furnished a million gallon a dav
to wash the lake dwellers with, the same to
wash (he Ctssars with, no leu to wash
Balsao with, and have not diminished on My
aeoount A million gallons a dayfor how
many days? Figures cannot set forth the
number. The delivery, in the aggregate, has
amounted to ah Attantle. And there Is still an
Atlantic down In there. By Dr. Wakefield's
calculation that Atlantic Is three-quarters of a
inlle down In the earth. The calculation Is
based upon the temperature of the water.
Which Is 114 to lir Fahrenheit the natural
taw being that below a certain depth heat aug
ments at tho rate of one degree for every sixty
feet of descent
Alx In handsome and Is handsomely situated,
too, on It hill slope, with Its stately prospect
of mountain range and plain spread out before
It and about It The streets are mainly narrow,
and steep and crooked and Interesting, and
offer considerable variety In the way of names;
on the corner of one of them you read this:
Jlut du PuU titEnftr Pit of Bell street Some
of tho sidewalks are only eighteen Inches wide :
they are tor the eats, probably. There Is a
pleasant park, and there are spacious and
benntltul grounds connected With the two
great pleasure resorts, the Oerolo and tho Villa
des Flours. The town consists of big hotels,
little hotels, and pensions. The season lasts
about Six months, beginning With May. When
it Is at its height there are thousands of visitors
here, and In the course of the season as many
as 20,000 In the aggregate come and go.
These are not all here for the baths: some
oome for the gambling facilities and some for
the climate. It Is a Climate where the Held
strawberry flourishes through the spring,
summer, and fall It is hot In the summer,
and hot in earnest: bnt this is only in the day
time: It is not hot at night The English sea
son is May and June: they get a good deal of
fain then, and they like that Tho Americans
tako July, and the French take August By the
1st of Jaly tho open air music and the evening
concerts and operas and plays are fairly nndsr
way. and from that time onward the rn9h of
pleasure has a steadily Increasing boom. It is
said that In August the great grounds and the
gambling rooms are crowded oil the time and
bo end of ostensible fun going on.
It is a good piaoS for rest and sleep and gen
eral recuperation of forces. The book of Dr.
'Wakefield says there Is something about this
atmosphere which la the deadly enemy of In
somnia, and I think this must be true, for if t
am any judge, tills town (sattlmesthenolslest
one in Europe, and yet a body gets more sleep
here than he could at home. I don't care where
his home is. Now we are living at
most comfortablo and satisfactory pen
sion, with a garden of shade trees
and flowers and shrubs, and a con
vincing air of qulot and repose. But just
across the narrow street is the little market
square, and at a corner of that Is that church
that Is neighbor (o the Roman arch, and that
narrow street and that billiard table of a
market place, and that church, are able, on a
bet to torn out more nolso to the cublo yard at
the wrong time than any other similar com
bination In the earth or out of It In the street
you have tho skull-bursting thundor of thn
passing hsokt a volume of sound not produci
ble by six hacks anywhere else: on
the back is a lunatlo with a whip
which he crocks to notify the publio to'
got out of his way. This crack is as
keen and sharp and penetrating and ear
splitting as a pistol shot at close range, and
tho lunatic delivers It in volleys, not single
shot. You think you will not be able to live
till he gets by. and when he does got by. he
only leaves a vacancy for the bandit who sells
I J'dU Journal to fill with his strange and
awful roll. He arrives with the early morning
and tho market people and there Is a dog that
arrives at about the same time and barks
steadily at nothing till he dies, and they (etch
another dog jnst like him, The bark of this
breed is the twin of the whip volley, and stabs
like a knife. By and by, what is left of you the
church bell gets. There are many bells, and
upparentry six or sovon thousand town
clocks, and a (her are all Ave minutes
opart-probttbly br law thero are no in
tervals. Some of them are striking all the
tlmo-at least after yon go to bed they are.
There Is ono clock that strikes the hour, and
then strikes It oyer again to see If It was right
Then for evenings and Sundays there is a
chime a chime that starts In pleasantly and
musically, then suddonty breaks Into a frantic
roar, and boom, and crash of warring sounds
that mnkos you think Paris Is up and the rev
olution como again. And yet a I have said,
ono Moeps horo sloops like the deasl Once he
nets his grip on his sleep, neither hack, nor
whip, nor news fiend, nor dog, norboll-cyclone.
nor all of them together can wrench it loose or
mar its deep and tranquil continuity. Yes.
thero is Indood something In this air that Is
death to insomnia.
Tho buildings of the Cerole and tho Villa dos
Flours aro huge In size, and eaoh has a thea
tro in it, and a groat restaurant, also conven
iences for gambling and general andvario
guted ontertalnment They stand In orna
mental grounds of great extont and beauty.
The multitudes of fashionable folk sit at
refreshment tables in the open air, after
noons, and listen to tho music and It i there
that they mainly go to break the Babbath.
To get the privilege of entering these grounds
and buildings you buyn (icket for a few franos.
Which is good for the whole soason. You are
then free to go and come at all hours, attend
the plays and conoerts f roo, exoept on spool!
oocaslons, gamble, buy refreshments, and
make yourself symmetrically comfortable.
Nothing could be handler than those two
llttlo thoatros. The curtain doesnt rise until
8:30; then betwoen the aots one can idle
for half an hour in tho othor departments
of tho building, damaging bis appetite In the
roBtaurants or bis pooketbook In the baccarat
room. The singers and aotors are from Paris,
and (heir performance Is beyond praise.
I was never In a fashionable gambling hell
until I came here. I had read several millions
of descriptions of such places, but (ho reality
was new to mo. I very much wanted to seo
this animal, ospeclolly tho nowhistorio gome
of baccarat and this was a good place,
for Alx ranks next to Monto Carlo
for high play and plonty of It But the
result was what I might havo expeoted-tho
Interest of the lookeron perishes with the nov
elty of the spectacle: that Is to say. In a few
minutes A permanent and Intense Interest Is
acquirable In baocamt, or In any other game,
but you Imvo to buy it You don't get it by
sbimlliitf around looking on.
The baxevrot table l eovortd with green
cloth and 1 marked off In divisions with cbnllf
or something. Tho banker sits In tho middle.
the croupier opposite. The customers fill all
be chairs at the table, and the rest of
the Crowd are massed at their backs
arid leaning over them to deposit
chips or gold coin. Constantly money and
chips are Dung upon the table, and tho game
seems to consist In the croupier's reaching tor
those thing with a flexible Mulling oar. and
raking them home. It appeared to be a ra
tional enough game for him. and It I could
havo borrowed his oar I would have stared,
but I didn't see where tho entertainment of
tho others camo in. This was because I saw
without perceiving and observed without un
derstanding. For tho widow and the orphan
and the others do win money (here. Onceao
old gray mother In Israel or elsewhere pullod
out and I heard her say to her daughter
or her granddaughter as (hey passed mo,
" There, I've won six louts, and Fm going
to quit while I'm ahead." Also there was
this statistic A friend pointed to a yonng man
with the dead stub of a olgar In his mouth,
Whloh he kept munching nervously all (h
time and pitching hundred-dollar chips on the
board while two sweet young girls reaohed
down over his shoulders to deposit modest lit
tle gold pieces, and said. " Bo's only funning,
now: wasting a few hundred to pass the time
waiting for the 'gold room' to open, you
know, which won't be till well after midnight
then you'll soo blm bett Be won 14,000 there
last night They don't bet anything there but
big money."
The thing I chiefly mlssod was die haggard
people with the Intense eye, the hunted look,
the desperate mien, candidates for suicide and
Hie pauper's grave. They are In the descrip
tions, as a rule, but tbey were off duty that
night All tho gamblers, male and female,
old and young. looked abnormally cheerful
and prosperous.
However, all the nations were there, olothed
riohly. and speaking all the languages. Borne
of the Women were painted, and were evi
dently shaky as to character. These Moras
tallied with the descriptions well enough.
The etiquette of the place was dlfnoult to
master. In the brilliant and populous halls
and oorrldoTs you don't amoks, and you wear
your hat no matter how many ladles or In ths
thick throng of drifting humanity : but the mo
ment yon cross the sacred threshold and enter
the gambling helL off the hat must oome. and
everybody lights his olgar and goes to suffoca
ting the ladles.
But what I eame here for, five weeks ago.was
the baths. My right arm was disabled with
rheumatism. To sit at home In America and
guess out the European bath best fitted for a
particular aliment or combination ot ailments,
it Is not possible, and It would not be a good
idoa to experiment In that way. any
how. There aro a great many cura
tive baths on the Continent and some
are good for one disease but bad for anothor.
So it Is necessary to let a physician name your
bath for you. As a rule. Americans go to
London to get this advioe. and South Ameri
cans go to Paris for tt Now and then an
economist chooses his bath himself and docs
a thousand mile of railroading to get to it
and then the local physicians toll him he has
come to the wrong place. Bo sees that he has
lost time and money and strength, and almost
the minute that be realizes this he loses his
temper. I had the rheumatism, and was ad
vised to go to Alx, not so much because I had
that disease as because I had the promise of
certain others. What they wore was not ex
plained to me, but they are either in the fol
lowing menu or I have been sent to the wrong
place. Dr. Wakefield's book saysi
"-We knowthat the class of maladies bene
fited by the water and baths at Alx are those
duo to defect ot nutrition, debility of the ner
vous system, or to a gouty, rheumatic, her
petic or scrofulous diathesis all diseases
extremely debilitating, and requiring a tonic,
and not a depressing action of the remedy.
This It seems to find hore. as recorded ex
perience and dally action can. testify.
According to the line of treatment followed
particularly with due regard to the tempera
ture, the action of tho Ati waters can be made
sedative, exciting, derivative, or alteratlveand
tonic"
Tho "Establishment" Is ths property of
France, and all the officers and servants aro
employees of the Frenoh Government The
bath house Ib a huge and massive pllo of white
marble masonry, and looks mors like a temple
than anything else. It has several floors, and
each is full of bath cabinets. There is every
kind of bath for the nose, tho ears, tho
throat vapor baths, tube baths, swimming
baths, and all people's favorite, the douohe.
It is a good building to get lost In. when you
are not familiar with It From early morning
until nearly noon people are streaming In and
streaming out without halt The major
ity oome afoot but great numbers are
brought in sedan chairs, a sufficiently ucty
contrivance whose cover Is a steep little tout
made of striped canvas. Yon see nothing of
the patient In this diving bell as the bearers
tramp along, except a glimpse of his ankles
bound together and swathed around with
blankets or towels to that generous degree
that the result suggests a aore piano leg. By
attention and practice the poll bearers have
got so that they can keep out of step all the
time and they do It As a consequence their
vellod churn goes rocking, tilting, swaying
along like a bell buoy In a ground swell. It
makes the oldost sailor seasick to look at that
spectacle.
Tho "course" Is usually fifteon douche
baths and Ave tub baths. You take the
douche three days In succession, then knock
off and toko a tub. You keep up this dis
tribution through the course. If one course
doos not cure you, you tako another one after
an Interval. You seek a local physician and
be examines your caso and prescribes tho
kind of bath required for it, with various other
particulars; then you buy your oourss tickets
and pay for them in advanoe W. With the
tickets you get a memorandum book with your
dates and hours all sot down In it The doctor
takes you Into the bath the first morning and
gives some Instruction to the two douoheurs
who are to handle you through the course.
The pourbolres are about ten cento to each
of tho men for each bath, payable at the end ot
the course. Also, st tho end ot the course, you
pay three or four francs to the superintendent
of your department of the bath house. These
are useful particulars to know, and are not to
be found to the books. A servant of your hotel
oarrtes your towels and sheet to the bath dally
and brings them away again. They are the
property of the hotel; the Fronch Oovornmont
doesnt furnish these tilings.
You meet all kinds of poople at a plaoe like
this, and It yon give them a ohance they will
eubmergeyouundertheli'exporionces. for tbsy
are either very glad or very sorry they came,
and (hey want to spread their feelings out and
enjoy them. Oneofthesosaldtomoi
" If s great these baths. I didn't oome hore
for my health. I only came to And out If (hore
was anything the matter with ma The doctor
told me It there was the symptoms would soon
appear, After the first douohe X had sharp
pains In all my musoles. The doctor said it
was dlfforont variotlos of rheumatism, and the
best varieties there wore, too. After my seoond
bath I had aches In my bones, and skull and
around. The doctor said It was different
varieties of neuralgia, and the best in tho mar
kot anybody would tell me so. I got many
new kinds of pains out of my third douohe.
These were in my Joints. Tho doctor said It
was gout oomplloatcd with heart dis
ease, and encouraged me to go on.
Then we had tho fourth douohe, und I coun
out on a strotcher thtt time, and fetched
with 'me ono vast diversified, undulating
ooutlnentol kind of pain, with horizons to It
I,
and zones, and parallels of latltudo and morld
lans of longitude, and Isothermal bolts, and
variations of tho compass Oh. everything tidy
and right up to ths latest developments, you
know. The doctor said It was Inflammation of
the soul, and Just tho very thing. Well I wont
right on gathering them In, toothaoho, liver
complaint softening of the brain, nostalgia,
bronchitis, osteology, fits, colooptera, hy
drangea, cyclopaedia brttannloa, delirium
tromons, and a lot ot other things that I've got
down In my list that I'll show you, and you can
keep It It you, like and tolly off the brlo-a-brao
as you lay tt In.
"Tho doctor said I was a grand proof of what
thesb baths could do: said I bad come hore ns
Innocent of dlsoase as a grindstone and In
side of three woeks these baths had sluiced
out of m every Important allmont known to
medical science, along with considerable more
that were entirely new nnd patentable, Why.
he wnntod to exhibit mo in hla bay window."
Thore scom to bo a good many liars this
year. I began to tako the baths, and found
thorn most enjoyablo: so enjoyablo that If I
hadn't had a dlsoase I would have borrowed
one, just to have a pretext tor going on. They
took mn Into a stono-floorod basin about four
teen feet square, whloh had enough Btrange
looking pipes and things In tt to make
It look like a torture ohamber. The two
half-naked mon aoated me on a pine stool, and
kept a couple ot warm-water jets as thlok as
ono's wrist playing upon me while thoy knead
ed mo. stroked me, twisted.me. and appllodall
the other dotatls ot tho sciontlflo massage to
mo for sovon or eight minutes. Then thoy
stood me up and played a poworful jot upon
m all around for another minute. The cool
shower bath came next and the thing was
over. I came out ot the bath houso a few min
utes later feeling younger and fresher and
finer than I have felt since I was a boy. The
spring and cheor and delight ot this oxaltation
lasted three hours, and the same uplifting ef
fect has followed tho twenty douches whloh I
have taken stnoe.
After my first douohe I went to the chem
ist's on the corner, as per Instructions, and
askod for half a gloss of Challe water. Itcomos
from a spring sixteen miles from here. It was
furnished to mo, but porcelvlng that thore
was somothlng tho matter with It 1 offered to
Walt till they could get some that was frosh,
but they said it always smelt that way. They
said that the reason that this was so muoh
rankor than the sulphur water of tho bath
was (hat this contained thirty-two times as
muoh sulphur as that It may be true, but
In my opinion that water comes from
a cemetery, and not a fresh cemetery,
either. History says that ono of the
early Roman Generals lostan army down there
somewhere. It he oould oome back now I
think this wator would help htm And It again.
However. I drank the Challe, and havo drunk
It once or twice every day since. I suppose it
Is all right but I wish I knew what was the
matter with those Romans.
My first baths developed plenty ot pain, but
the subsequent ones removed almost all of It
I havo got back tho nso of my arm these last
few days, and I am going away now.
There aro many beautiful drives about Alx.
many Interesting places to visit and much
pleasure to be found In paddling around the
little lake Bourget on the small steamers, but
tho excursion which satisfied me best was a
trip to Annecy and its neighborhood. You go
to Anneoy in an hour by rail, through a gar
den land that has not had its equal for beauty,
perhaps, slnoe Eden: and certainly not Eden
was cultivated as this garden is. The charm
and loveliness of the whole region are bewil
dering. Picturesque rocks, forest-clothed
hills, slopes richly bright In the oleanost and
greenest grass, fields of grain without fleck or
flaw, dainty of color and as shiny and shim
mery as silk, old gray mansions and
towers half burled (n foliage and sunny emi
nences, deep ohasms with precipitous walls,
and a swift stream of pale blue water between.
Willi now and then a tumbling cascade and
always noble mountains in view, with vagrant
white clouds curling about their summits.
Then at the end of an hour you come to An
nocy and rattio through its old crooked lanes,
built solidly up with curious old houses that
are a dream of the middle ages, and presently
you come to the main object ot your trip
Lake Annecr. It is aravolatlon, itisamlra
olo. It brings the tears to a body's
eyes. It Is so enchauting. That is to
Bay. it affects you Just as all things
that you Instantly recognize as porfoct affect
you perfect music perfect eloquenoe, perfect
art perfect joy, perfect grief. It stretches
itself out thero In tho caressing sunlight and
away toward its border of majestic mountains,
a Crisped and radiant plain of water of the
dlvlnost blue that can be tmaglnod. Ail the
bluos aro there from the faintest shoal-water
suggestion of tho color, dotoctable only In the
shadow of somo overhanging object all the
way through, a little blue and a little blusr
still, and again a shade bluer, till you strike
the deep, rich Mediterranean splendor whloh
breaks the boart In your bosom. It Is so beau
tlfuL And the mountains, as you skim along on
tho steamboat bow stately their forms, how
noble their proportions, how green their vel
vet slopes, how soft the mottlings ot sun and
shadow that play about the rooky ramparts
that crown a thorn, bow opaline the vast up
heavals ot snow hanked against the sky In the
remotonesses beyond Mont Blanc and the
pthors-how shall anybody describe? Why,
not evon the painter can qulto do it and the
most the pen can do is to suggest
Up the lako there Is an old abbey Tallolres
rolls of the middle ages. We stopped thore ;
stepped from the sparkling water and tho rush
and boom and fret and fever of the nineteenth
century Into thojolemnlty and tho sllenooand
the soft gloom and the brooding myntory of
a remote antiquity. The stone step at the
water's edao had the traces of a worn-out In
scription on it; the wide flight ot stone stops
that led up to the front door was polished
smooth by the passing feot ot forgotten
oenturlos, and there was not an unbroken
stone among them all Within the pile was
(lie old squaro cloister with covered arcade
all around It where the monks of the anolent
times used to sit and modttato, and now and
thon welcome to their hospitalities the wan
dering knight with his tin brooches on, and in
the mlddlo of tho square court (open to the
sky) was a stone well curb, craokod and sllok
with age and uso, and all about It wore woeds,
and among tho weeds mouldy brlokbats that
tho Crusaders usod to throw at each other. A
passage at tho further aldo of the cloister led
to another woody and roofless little en
closure beyond, where thero was a ruined wall
olothed to tho top with masses of ivy, and
flanking It was a battored and plcturosque
arch. All over the building thero woro com
fortable rooms and oomfortable beds and
olean plank floors with no carpets on them. In
one bedroom up stairs woro half a dozen por
traits, dimming relics of tho vanished oentu
rlcs portraits of abbots who usod to be as
grand as prlnoes In their old day, and very rlob
and muoh worehl ppod and very holy ; and In the
noxt room thore was a howling chromo and an
eloctrlo bell Down stairs thero was an ancient
wood carving with a Lqtln word commanding
silence and there was a spang now piano close
by. Two elderly French women, with the
kindest and honestost and slnoorost faces,
havo the abbey now, and they board and lodge
people who are tired of the roar of cities and
wnnt to bo whoro the dead sllonoe and seronl
ty and peaco of (his old nest will heal their
blUtored spirits and patch up tholr raggod
minds. They fed us well, thoy slept us well,
and I wish I could havo stayed thore a few
years and got a solid rest Una Twant
AN lUHEVIthSSIDLE VACUUSO QVES-
noy.
The See or Clin ef th America' Cop TJ.
SlnUWhcd Opposition by Ih EnclUhmcn.
In the club house of the Now York Yooht
Club at 07 Madison avenue with Its once
world-wide fame rapidly being narrowed down
to within comparatively small limits, rostatho
trophy whloh Is supposed to represont tho
championship of the world Inyaohtlng. Four
years ago, when the races betwoen the Volun
teer and Thistle decided In tho New York
Yaoht Club's favor the right to hold the Amer
ica's Cap. not only the yachting world, but
pooclo In ovory civilized country on tho globe
were Interested In the trophy. Now. after four
soasons have passed without a race, wo find
tho America's Cup relegated to tho shelf con
taining tho emblems ot past greatness.
The way tho case Is now. English yaohtmen
havo taken a stand against tho condition un
der which the cup Is hold by the Now York
Yacht Club, and give their objections to the
present doedof gift governing tho cup as the
reason for not sending a challsuge Tho own
era of the old Amerloa, Messrs. 3. 0. Stevons,
Edwin A. Stevens. Hamilton Wilkes. J. Bock
man. Jflnloy, and Ocorge U Schuyler, gave the
the cup to the New York Yacht Club July 8.
1857, with tho understanding that It should
bo held as a perpotual challenge cup
for all nations, any organized yacht
club ot any foreign country having
the right through one or more of its
members, to sail a race with any yacht or
other vessel of notices than thlrtr nor more
than three hundred tone measured by tho
Custom Houso rule of tho aountry to which tho
vessel belongs. It was provided in tho origi
nal deed that "tho putties desiring to sail for
the cup may make any match with the yacht
club In possejsion of the same that may bo
dotormlnod npon by mutual consent but In
case of disagreement as to terms tho match
shall be sailed over the urusI course for the
annual regatta ot tho yaoht olub In posses
sion of tho cup, and subject to tho rules
and sailing regulations tho challenging party
being bound to gtvo six months' notice in
writing, fixing the day thoy wish to start This
nottcoto embrace thq longth. Custom Houso
measurement rig, nnd name of the vossol."
These were ull tho conditions imposed in the
original deed nf gift, und it u scarcely any
wonder that with the growth of yachting and
en appreciation of the great posMMIltlos for
sport In International matches yachtsmen In
this country wanted to mako a new dood. The
original deed was docldedly crude, and
placed tho challenger at tho mercy of the
challenged party. The olub holding, tho cup
could make any rules It pleased and then forco
the challenger to sail under them. The doed
wan also unfair to the challenged party in im
posing practically no obllgaagnuDpa the
challenger. Hence on Jan. 4, 1683. the sec
ond deed was made by Mr. Schuyler as the
surviving ono ot the original donors. ..
The sooond deed conllned the challenging
party to one having tor its annual regatta an
ocean water course on the sea or an arm of
tho sea. practicable for vessels of 900 tons,
and stipulated that tho vessels sail
ing the match should be constructed
in the oountry. to which eaoh. respec
tively, belonged. It also provided that
voasels intending tocompotofortheoupehould
sail on their own bottoms tothe post Where the
oontost would take place This second deed,
however, still enforced the unfair old rnle that
If tho parties could not agree mutually upon
tho terms ot a match it should be sailed over
the annual regatta course and subject to tho
rules and regulations of the olub holding tho
cup. and furthermore be limited to one trial
A club could still adnnt a course for its annual
regatta utterly unfit for a fairtest ot a foreign
yacht could establish an unfair sys
tem of time allowance and a, thorough
knowledge of thn course could enable
the defondlng yacht to win. by a fluke It Is
claimed by some foreign yachtsmen that the
act of chnnglng the terms ot the deed ot gift
was illegal, but surely there could be no ob
jection to the striking out. by tho olub holding
the anp,t too terms unfair to a ohauenccor.
Although there was still much to be. dono in
the way of liberality toward the challenger, a
step was taken in this direction In the framing
of the socond deed, and If there had not been
Inserted a clause ubnut.dlmohelons it 14 un
likely that thsre would havo been a word snld
about the legality of the altering of tho deed.
Unfortunately, as has heon shown by expe
rience the seoond deed contained tho clause
"Accompanying tho six months' notice there
must be a Custom House oertlQoate of the
measurement, and a statement of the dimen
sions, ripr. and name of the vessel."
At first no Importance was attached to the
dimension clause, as shown by the fact that In
the Oenostannd Galatea challenges the official
correspondence on the part of the English
rachtifmen gives freely the dimensions of
hosotwo yacht. In tho Thistle case, how
ever, the New York Yacht ClUb had to call
the attention of tho Scotchmen to the ab
sence of dimensions aud insist that n chal
longo bo made out In nooordanoa with the
terms of tlio second deed. Tho dlmonslons
wore then sent with a courteous apology and
explanation, but one Of the dimensions
lngth on the water lino was exceeded by over
a fixit The inoldent Is most Important as it
brought about the present deadlock over the
deed of gift
Immediately after the volunteer-Thistle
matohes the New York Yacht Clue appointed a
committee with power to revise the socond
deed, and the result Is the deed Inforoe to-day.
Tho main object In fact. It mar be said, so
far as tho New York Yaoht Club fa concerned,
tho only objeot in again changing th deod.
was to make its provisions mora fair to both
parties In cosq the club challenging and the
olub holding the cup could not mutually agree
apon tho terms of amatoh. In all tbe deeds
10 mutual agraoment clause was preserved,
and In everything, exoopt the dimension
clause the changes nave bson toward pt aolng
the parties ona more equal andsportsmanllke
tooting, the efforts of the Now York Yaoht Club
having been to provide a fair tost ot compet
ing vosboIs In spite of any disagreement whloh
might arise
The prosent doed provides that in caso the
parties cannot mutually agree upon the con
ditions of a match, three races shall be sailed,
the winner of two of these bolng entitled to
the oup. The races shall he on open ocean
courses, free from headlands, the first, twenty
nautical miles to windward und return,
thn second over an equilateral triangle ot
thirty-nine miles, with tho first leg to wind
ward, nnd thn third, if a third race is nuo
ehary, twenty miles to windward and return.
Tho coutho shall bo practicable in oil parts tor
vopsoIs of twenty-two feet draught of water,
nnd the races shall be sailed without any time
allnwanco whatever. A. tlmo limit of seven
hours is put into tbe deod to prevent either
party winning the oup by drifting. These
conditions surely provldo for fair raooe
nnd admitting that the cup should over
come Into the possession of n olub too un
sportsmanlike to agron upon rcasonablo terms
for n tnaiqh. the ehallooger could With Im
punity adhere Btrlctly to thorn. Thore is
nothing In them which Is. objected to at, pres
ent or probably over will be Another, clause,
Erovlding that centreboard boats shall always
o allowed to raco tar the oup and thut thq
centreboard shall not he considered a part ot
tho vessol for onr purpose ot measurement. Is
also essential Tho one olause which lu con
sidered objectlonablo by foreign yacht clubs
and by many yachtsmen In this ooun
try Is the one regarding dimensions.
It Is this clause which ha been worked by
tho yachtsmen of. Great Britain, under the
leadership of Mr. Dixon Kemp of the London
Firld. to prevent another uttompt being made
tocapturotho championship trophy.
The dimension clause provldos that "ancom-
Banylng tho ton months' notice of challenge
lere must be sent the name of thn owner, and
a cortilloate of the name, rig, and following di
mensions of the challenging vessol. namely,
length on load-water line beam at load. water
lino and extreme beam, and drought of water,
whloh dimensions shall not be oxceeded; and
a Custom Houso registry of tho vessel must
also bo sent as soon as possible." . ..
Tno roason for Inserting this clause in the
Sow deed was explulnod to the, writer by Mr.
onrgo I Hohuylero few weeks before his
South. Mr. Sohuylur said that personally lie
louaht very little of tho dimension obtuse,
tat Clio cenflemon who drew up the doed put
it in, and as he attaobod no importance to it
one way or the other be gavo It little attention.
He knew that what led to domandlng dimen
sions was tho mistake, madp by Georgo U
VYtttspn In ..sanding the toad-water line
of tho Thistle. What Mr. Schuyler did
think was important .however, and was
very partloufnr iilxiut was. that tho
deed should provide that In ease of
disagreement as to thetnrniH of a match tho
races shuuld bo sailed on opon.noonn courses
without time allowances, and centroboard
vobsoIs should bo allowed to compote. This
was all In favor of the ohallengor.for It pre
vented the possibility of his, being subject
entirely to tho rules of the club holding the
oup. The splritof Mr. Schuyler hlmselfcan
not ho doubtod. lie was fair minded .und
sportsmanlike, and even nt the tlmo of his
sudden death ho was ruiyldering tho dimen
sion oluupo of trie deed, with a view of ob
taining thn opinion ot the Now York Yacht
Club concerning its fairness, and to learn
Who.th.er It would bn wlso to strike tt out
"I have heard It said that sending the
dimensions of a challenging vessel, as required
MSHHMHaHaKEaMfaaHaJjH
Eijr tho deed, glvos.the challenged party an
ilea f thn model of tho foreign raoht.'' snld Mr.
ichuylcr, " but I do not believe that statoraont
Is correct The main dimensions woro prac
tically the sams In the Mayflower and Volun
teer, but everybody knows tlid two models
wore not alike I cannotconceda, that sending
dliflenslnns revonls tho model of tho. yaoht tho
holder of tho oup has got to meet, but I will
say that If tho New York Yacht Clnb wishes
tho dimension olause strlokon out of tho doed
tho matter can be easily arranged." ,. .
Tho qluhs likely to challenge are those of
Great Britain. Tlielr position Is .easily ex
plained. It was mado clear whon Lord Dnn
raven wanted to raco in 18X0. He challenged in
tho nnmo of tho ltoyal Yacht Squadron,
whloh rofysed to roongnlr.etho new deed of
clft The New York Yaoht Club insisted that If
tho cup woro wim by thn Valkyrie Lord .Pun
raven's yacht It should be held. hy the Royal
Yacht bqundton. subject to tho full terms of
tho now deed. This Is all the Now York Yacht
Club could do, but thq lloyal Yacht Squadron,
claiming that the dood Is unfair to a challen
gor. decided not to be bound by It. ,. . .
Tho. man who holds the kpy to the whole
situation In England, nnd In Ireland and Scot
land, too, for that matter. Is Mr. Kemp.
Ho linn led thn attaok upon the. now doed.
nnd with such results that alt tho clubs
within his reach aro backing him up, Itls
necessary that a ohaltengo Tie sent In the
name of n club", but ovary Ungllsh olub has its
oommtttoo or clique who. rule In international
mnttere and they will not endorse a challenge
It they have to accept and agree to enforpe the
deed as it stands now. In a conversation at
the ltoyal London Yacht Club's headquarters.
i Savllln row. London, rocoutly, Mr. Kemp said
to a Hun reporter: .. . .
"Ths whole situation can bo summed no In
a few words. There aro a nuraborot yachts
men hero who would llko to ohoilonge tor the
America's cup. but they can't Thecomralt
teoB In tho various clubs win not allow. thom
to. Wo do not bolloro that tho olause in thq
deod catling for dimensions is fair, and
no matter what concessions Americans
would make to secure araoo the yaohtsmon
horo would not hind thomsolyos to tho
doed. English yaohtsmon would not like to
hold a cup subject to conditions thoy bolloved
to bo unfair, nnd It Is my opinion that no chal
lenge will fco sent undor the new deod as it
read now until doath changes tho manage
ment or our clube Of course, I suppose ft Is
likely thnt In time thn men composing our
committees will dlo. off. and somo club may
foel inclined to ohoilonge. but that will be
sometime yet
rMr. James Bell, former owner of the .This
tle told me this summer that he would like to
challenge again, and a son ofOol. North would
also like to build a boat Indeed. Col. North's
Ron took steps in tho matter a short time. ago.
ut after investigating the case ho found thore
would bo difficulty In finding a club to forward
his challenge: so ho lot tho matter drop. There
aro others who want to race also. , It would be
no trouble to pick out men to build. .Let the
Now York Yaoht Club strlko out that oiauso
calling for dimensions and thore will bo an
other effort mode by English yaohtsmon to
get the cup."
Mr. Kemp unquestionably has the right to
speak authoritatively, having, carried all be
fore him on tho other --Ide and that he repre
sents the Kn.-llsh position correctly would be
made quite clear to any American yachts
man who would pay a. visit to England
and talk with yachtsmen there on ths subject
The New York Yacht Club does not demand
dimensions now. but it insists that If the cup
should be won by a foreign yacht it must bq
held subject to the full terms of tho now deed
ot gift and that Is something the yaoht clubs
of Great Britain will not consent feu
long as the dimension clause.sts.nde When
Mr. William Honn. owner of the Galatea,
was here last wlntor he was .given to under
stand by members of tho New York Yacht
Club that the dimension oiauso could and
would be waived, but in England this gener
osity doos not have muoh effect
BTBASaB ALASKA.
Experience ot Irof. ell. JTort Baak
froH mm Exploring KxpcdlUom.
Wabbeiqton.Nov. 7. Strawberries and mos
quitoes snom to be equally plentiful In the
neighborhood of Mount Bt Eliae according to
the testimony ot Mr. Israel a Bussell who
has JUst returned to Washington from that
region of eternal Ice and know In Alaska,
where the highest peak In North.Anlerlca rises
to an altitude of 10,000 feet from a glacier
1,000 square miles in area and as big aa all
those of the Alps put togothdr.
Along 'the edga of the glacier, all ths way
from Ioy Bay to Yakutat Bay, there extends a
strip of green coast which Is covered with lux
uriant vegetation. Strawberry vines oover the
ground for mllee and the verdant fields are
reddened as far as tho eye can reach with lus
oIoub fruit whloh compares favorably In point
of slxe and flavor with th finest grown In tem
perate latitudes. There aro huckleberries, too.
and "salmon borriee" which are something
between blackberries and raspberries, but of
giant sice measuring nearly two Inches in di
ameter. All the lowlands are carpeted with
violetc buttercups, yellow monkoy flowors.
and other wild blossoms. Here and thore. In
the midst of the vast loo Aelde are tho loveli
est gardens watered by the melting snow.
There are plonty of grlxsly bears In the vi
cinity of Mount St Ellas, but Mr. Russell did
not find them very dangeroue He says that
his encounters with thom reminded him of
killing plge Of brown and black bears he
saw and shot a great many. The expedition
met with enough porlle however, to satisfy
tho most adventurous geographical explorers
Nearly all ot the climbing had to be done up
steep walls ot Ice and snow by cutting steps.
At almost anytime a slip would have pre
cipitated tbo party down tho frozen
precipices thousands of feet .On one
occasion tbey wero descending when they
found that an avalanohe had carried away the
steps which they hod mods in going up. The
Impromptu staircase was destroyed for 300
foot and they bad to lower a man by a rope to
chop out another, there being no other way of
getting down. Buoh accidents as this were
not uncommon. Avalanches were continually
failing, rushing down tho slopos with the
speed of railway trains and with a roar ilka
thundor tbatoould be beard twontymilosaway.
One night about 12 o'clock tho party was
passing over a bad place in the Agassis glacier.
Two men wero in the lead, drawing a sled.
Buddcnly they disappeared from sight having
fallen into a fissure In the Ice Luckily they
were caught upon a projecting lodge at the
depth of about twenty feet else they would
fiover havo been seen ugaln. They were
muled out with ropes. .The noxt day. In .the
eimo neighborhood, .Mr. Russell, chanced to
look behind him and saw that tho lco flold
over whloh ho had jUBt passed was cone, leav
ing an enormous bole of unknown depth. An
other tlmo ono ot his men tumbled into a
!revusso, and, was only bavnd by the pack
astenod to his shoulder, which Interrupted
lis progress through a twist in tbo frozen tun
nel that had yawned for him. ..
The Agassis glaolor Is one of the four great
glaciers which, together with about a thousand
smnll onee flow out from tho mountains at the
north to tho mighty Malasplha glacier, pour
ing tholr streams of lco oontlnuallr.lnto this
viut 1 1 07.011 sea. Tills glacier of Ifalasplna.
from l.bUO to ZOOO feet thick, is Interesting
not merely because ot 1U enormous size but
also by reason of tho fact thut it is the only
ono now in exlstonco ot tho same typo as the
glacier which formorly covered all" of this
oonttnent u far south as I'hlladelphla and
bt. LoulH-leuviuc traces thut uro visible to th Lb
dur In Boriitehos on tho rooks. , .
Whore thq lund in that region Is bare ot ice
tho ve.etutlon attains an utmost tropical lux
uriance, und tho Arutlo jungles aro woll nigh
impassable to tho explorer, Ono of the chief
otlhtaolcs encountered In threading thom is a
plant known 11a. tho ''devil's club." which
grows to n height of 10 or 15 foot. Its stems
running along tho ground for somo distance
and thon turninix upward. Evory part ot its
surface evon to tho ribu of tho leavus, is thick
ly set with spines, which Inflict painful
wounds, and, hrouklug off In the flush, oauso
fetorlng sores. In tho Luola Glacier occurs a
git) out Interesting feuture, in the shapo of a
laolal river which cumos out from a mouu
Un through an archway of ice. flows for a
in lie and a naif in plain view, and then is lost
to bight In another tuuncl. Where tho
stream emergCH llmilly Is unknown. So ox-
filurcr Iioh ui let ooeii bold enough to enter
ho tminvl and ilillt through, alter the fashion
of AllunQu.itprmiiln und TJnislopugiuie 'the
greatest ruk In such an undertaking would he
from fulling blocks of Ice At the mouth of tin;
tunnel thero urn always oonfused noises and
rhythmic vibrations to be hoard from the dark
recosses within. Tho nlr is filled with pulsa-
I Inns like doep organ notes, and It requires but
Ittlo Imagination to transform those fetranae
sounds Into the voices and songs of Inhabi
tants of the nether world. It used to be sup
posed tlist Mount St. Illlaswas a volcano, and
sea Captains sailing on thn i'aolflo have often
iinhelil whut.they Imagined to be smoke lesulne
romitsHummlt: but this is a mistake and it
probable that tho alleged smoke was really
avalanohe dutt blown upward by the wlna.
THE CLEVELAND BABY 11 1
nun looks asi rttoaimss. , 4 j 'i
ITer rresfints-Whitt the VThtintyS Btt Iter '" : ,
foe J0n.on Offferrd t Men Ik OraJta
-Nothing bat White la tier TroaMeaM. i
Baby Cloveland looks both llko Its father and ' .
Its mothor. Distinctly she has her fathof .
profllo and outline and her mother's doep vlo- 3 .Jf
let eyes. Hor round head Is crownod with a Vj .'
sott down of brown hair, just enough to keep j) .'
her from the baby's reproach of a bald head. ,'?5 ,,.
She Is not a largo baby ;sho's small and dainty. tfji '
but well rounded, woll knit and active When '8y ',
you look down at hor she doosn't thrash '$ji t)
about blindly llko a young kitten, but stares M 4
solemnly up at you and looks In- $
(crested. Evon hor father has notlood ',vj
thle and boon pleased by It as any f;jj
ono would know If ho oould see the ex- ,
Prosldent rush like a boy ns soon as he opens , - t
the front door, up throo flights of stairs to the 'a
room whore tho small woman llos. He hold s! ,
out his arms and tho nurse lays the baby In - V
them and Mr. Cloveland rubs the round brorwa V ij
hoad and looks at her with deep and respeot- i - ft
tut attention. j
Bhe Is dressed absolutely In white: nothing V$
eUe has been prepared for hor. It was a fancy i J
of Mrs. Cleveland's that thore should be no "M
eotorabontthlsbaby.nothtngbutthesnowlest yi
white, and the thinnest softest most exqul- :;'( ,-.
site fahrioe Thore are no wonderful laces, f. I
but tho needle work Is suoh as might ' ,)
have fallen across the dainty wrists of
Tltanla horself. It was dono in the oon- ,-j
IBll TOILET BASKET. ,, e
vents, every piece of it specialty for Baby K '
Buth. nnd every piece has "Baby"ombrotd- '. ' k
ered upon it Thero are long thin gowns with ' ;
yokes and bands ot the most fine and frosty
needlowork; evon the seams are mode an ex- I I
ouse for exquisite beading and open work. ,
And there are snowy undergarments long. -i
short and ridiculously tiny little things all of . V
I be sheerest linen Cambria, like a bride's hand- -l 4
erchlef, and the silkiest softest flannels. Up : 3 ''-.
from ovory dainty garment breathes the faint- j f
Set bint ot an odor of whito violets, and the i ,1
olnty little flower Is embroidered somnwhoro i -i
about each plooo, Tbero aro whlto violets j ,1
done In silk on the woollou garments, an! i i
white violet In linen or In Bilk on the cambric '
garments: whlto violets dancing singly across i -
Hie broadthe and white violots gathered in '
posies here and there :
But Mrs. Cleveland bolloves In simplicity for J ,
Sables, and, se while the entire wardrobe is f i
ne and dainty It is also exquisitely simple t 3
Sndohasto. It by no means follows that it has i t i
oen inexpensive i 1
There are tho Imported oloaks, for example, I i
otwblch there are eight long, rich, soft things, t) i
With their wreaths of Whlto vlolete and yet jtJ ,
they are simplicity itsoltT The little caps that I f
go with tho cloaks aro of the finest Valon- ' $
eiennes with tiny bands of needlework on ' i
muslin. Boxes and boxes of tiny silk socks " 'i
and shoes wore prepared for tho little feor, and i f
as soon as it Was announced that the baby wiib , jy
ready to wear socks and shoes thirty-two pairs, r-t
In addition, camo tumbling In from friends. a
TOE nUBBEJt BATH.
Tho .gifts that were sent are probably the f
richest and most varied that any. baby ont- j ,
sidoof royal families has ever reoolved,. The 3
Lamonts sent nn exhibitor, which Is by Inter- J
pretatlon a white rattan baskot draped with '
many lace frilie lined with older down, and
cushioned with palo-bluosotin. In which the '
baby Is expected to be placod when ho lntt-
mate friends that she Is allowed to sen oome to ti
take their peep of her. This, exhtbitorjs In
pale blue but it is tho only bit ot oolor that Is (
about the baby. ',
The dressing baskot was a gift from a well- , t
known society woman, who is one of Irs. s
Cleveland's most Intimate frlonde It Is of i I
whlto rattan. In the form of a large square ' j
hamper. The lid 1b tied on at the back, aud ,
ornamented at the front with hugp white rib- ' I
Yalenelennos lace Tho inside is lined" with
fine linen oambrie, and.a tiny edge 1 of Valen- ,j --1
clennes finishes the .lining about the edge, 1 x
Insidothe white nest Is.tho most remarkable .! ?,
set nf baby's toilet articles that has ever been ; .
made in Now York. All the. pleoes ar re- 'J
pQiissl silver of exquisite workmanship. f a
To Iwgln with there is tho powder box and 1
Its puff, a very large round box made from a -,? ?
special design made by Tiffany, and, a mar- r '.
velot the silversmith's art The smallest and
most delicate flowers form the repousse pat- . 1 kH
tarn, and in and nut among them winds tbe 1
truelovor's knot Tbo sllvor brushes, of whloh I (
thore are certainly bnir a score, the oreamy
yellow of tho Ivory combs, the soap box. and ,
tho big sllvor sponzo box are all ornamented ;
With tho eame design and have the word
'Baby'' engraved on them. The sponge Is j
nearly as blir as tho baby, as soft as velvet and 4
smells or white violets, lnsldo tho hamper . i-
when It ennie was a tiny white volvpt casket &
with whlto violets embroidered on it and In- .1'
side thn box wore half a duzon gold safety pins ,1
of all sizes . 15
Judge Ersklno sent tho baby's porringer, set , H 4
also mado In a sneclul donlgn. There are three . 3
Elecne the bowl, plate, and a delicious long- '. a U
andled spoon with a gold bowl 1 j
. ' 5f
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una. wiuthbt's anrr. I '4
Mrs. Whlinoy's gift Is unique and maenlfl- i 4
ocnt First there Is a big sliver casket beaten i '
and engraved In an elaborate pattern. Inside , ' 9
tho casket Is a sot of tlnr furniture Itlsinadit , S
entire of rare gold coins Joined lna pattern 4?
with exquisitely fine filagree wnik. Tno pttoes , ' r
Stand about threoinohes high. The top of the '1 fi
Inr (ablo is composed of ffyn, oolne and th '
iack and seat of the sofa und chairs of a like i
number of smallor size, Tho legs and the or- 1 f
iiHmenfatlon are of light ullcrou. This sot of 1 I
furniture was mado specially tor prosontatlou 1
to the Cloveland baby. 1
Mr. and Mrs. Joseph Jefferson have asked to -
give tho cradle, but It hasn't comn yet 1
, Anothor Interesting thing about the baby la
her bath. It might bo expected after ell (his I
s ver AorvlceUiatspmebodyhad son tin a folia
sllvor hutlituh. jlut nobody has. The bathtub
Is of rubbor. and Is propped up on cross sticks
at each qnd. looking like a compromise between 1
a filial I ham mock and a cam p stool
There Is no limit to tbo e Ider-dnwn blankets,
because It, has rained eider-down blankets
over since tbo baby was boru. In one day Of-
teen were sent In. ,
Jlotiors will be Interested to know that lbs. .
Cleveland nursts the baby herself. I
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