The sun. [volume], November 29, 1891, Image 23

About The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916

Image provided by: The New York Public Library, Astor, Lenox and Tilden Foundation

                
"f .' ' , ' THfe SUN, SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 29. 1801. MBBBB
THE BHECIAN EYEHINB BOWK.
I A Dress That Even a Man Would
I Reoognieo as Greek.
I THE BABY All. IN GEAY.
On The Advantages of Putting Pettl-
coats On Your Lamps.
INTERESTING INFORMATION.
H A Family of We ZOTyars The Stnua
H Eaiptror'e New Ut PI. Triumph ef
H Dig stloa llae a Woau Tim to Head I
H a t'osfesalon by On Who Thought She
H Had Not A boot Keeping aa Umbrella
H A Heal Ban Franeleeo Baroaesa,
I The Grecian evening gown has been adapted
I from tho old froecoos and friozes by a clever
I woman of artlstio fooling to tho cxlgoncios of
I modern conventionality. Tho material Is ot
I old Ivnrr satin, hoavy and grncoful In draping,
I And with a wonderful shoen and shimmer In
I tha licht ot tho ballroom. It has first a pottl-
coat ot yellow satin, with a deml-tratn plain
I nn the outside, but llnod halt way to tho waist
B with plaited frills of lace on tho under side
I Over this Is draped an adaptation ot tho old
I Greek olilton. bordered ovorywhoro with a
I broad band of cold tracery set at Intervals with
small rhlnestones sowed on over tinsel that
lends them a wonderful brilliancy. Thebodleo
K is wrought alt over with the silt threads
E tnd jewels, except whero It is covered
with thedrapery which fastons on one shoulder
I with jewellod clasps mndoaftor the pattern ot
those the Grecian matdons woro In tho oarly
I days when tho chiton formed tho entire dross
I ot the woarer. A heavy girdlo ot sold closed
I with an antlquo clasp drapes the front in
I graceful folds and confines it to the figure
The back of the sown has a train draped from
one shoulder to fall to the edce of the petti
cost, which shows only a little bit about tho
front. A flying leap across several cen
turies must be made to the porlod of
ths pretty evening cloak which our
fair lady's cavalior Is adjusting with
such devotion. The foundation of the
capo Is pale yellow satin, which forms Its Iln
lns. upon which Is satherod first a deep
frill ot dark green velvet, above this is a broad
flounce of lace set on about the shoulders
with a band of fur and gathered over a yellow
silk ruffle. The yoke enclosed by the fur band
Is ot stiff gold brocade sparkling with jewels.
The woman who wears the gown must be tall
and stately. There must be grace In her out
lines, poetry in her motions, slow gracious
dignity In her presence. Having these she
I mar be fair like the renowned Grecian beauty
or whom war. was waged at Troy, or dark a
the famous and Ill-fated French queen from
whose wardrobe the cape is borrowed.
The apotheosis of elegance Is accomplished
In the long velvet coat whleh the slender wo
man just now moves heaven and earth to In
clude In her wardrobe. This coat Is cut much
on the same lines as that of our grandmothers
and great aunts, who wore the velvet garment
I and called it a "sacque" thirty or forty years
ago. The coat fits the figure closely, the vel
vet falling in long folds at the back and very
frequently cut away at tho front and sides,
over a Ions richly brocaded waistcoat Jet and
fur Is lavishly applied to the fur coat, feather
bands enhanco its elegance, and sometimes
it Is embroidered in silk or jot In a bold band
some pattern. Tho coat In the Illustration la
bordered with Itusslan marten, and has a yoke
and jacket effect of jet very handsomely cut
Sleeves are at once the despair and the de
llchtofthe mantua maker. Exaggerated to
the verge of tho ridiculous In elzo. eccentric
and picturesque, thoy strike tho dominant
note of individuality In tho plain gowns now
demandod by tho mode, and which might
othorwlso bo monotonously alike. For day
wear tho popular Florentlno form prevails;
that Is. very full from tho shouldor to tho el
bow, thenco to the wilst tlcht fitting. Homo
times UiIb upper-arm fulness is divided Into
twn puffo Instead of ono. but the simpler form
Is the favorite. Out fur evening dross or din
ner wuur the sleavri Is. or will soon become
enormous, velvet und exponslvo brocades bo
Ins employed in the construction o( Us Ira-
posing ami involved structure. Marguerite
sleeves, with pun at elbow and shoulder,
Hans llolhom adaptations of padded fur und
velvet. Vulolts models with slashings appear-
I I hi: In the velvet to reveal bright pullluss
through of satin or laco over silk, and tho long
wrlstod Josephine types, with their turned
down cuffs falling over the hand to the
knuckles, as well as a host of other models and
combinations ot models, are eagerly seised
upon for tie variety which fashion demaads.
The skirts of dresses havo a universal similar
ity of effect and still are Inaccordancewlththo
canons ot modish good form, but to the sleeves
is devoted tho anxious study ot designers.
Blaok velvet and white laoe. tho distinguish
ing fabrics of oxtremo eleganoe. are once more
to the front In dinner gowns and reception
gowns tho combination odco relegated to tho
dowager society leader now quaintly empha
sizes tho fresh beauty of tho youthful ma
tron. But ono'falr-halrod bride with a youth
ful nnd lissome figure has outstripped all
competitors In tho race for magnificence by
including In her trousseau a black velvet " flvo
o'clock tea." or " nt homo " gown. This gown
has a Watteau train plaited on at tho buck ot
tho neck with an , upstanding frill ot
tho volvat lined with pal Blue satin,
as Is the entire train. The fulnoss Is
confined at tho waist by doop-pointed
leaves of yollowlaoo caught together with an
odd buokle ot gold and turquoise Leaves of
laco form a yoko-llko effect, loo. on tho upper
part of tho waist and laco Vandykes form the
collar nnd cuffs, from boneath which ruffles of
blue chiffon escape The whole gown, with Its
odd buckles and priceless laco. oamo out of an
old chest whore It had been packod away for
half n century or more, and only noodod slight
readjusting and rofltting to tako Its placo
among tho new FarlH creations In the trous
seau belonging to tho granddaughter of tho
woman who pnokod It away us useless bocauso
out of the mode
A quaint ooncelt In card cases is that ottho
lizard skin cose In tho lizard's green color,
with a small lizard of gold and diamonds
writhing across ono corner of the cover. All
tho bowknots and truo lovers' knots and
hearts are still used as the oomer, decoration
ot tho card case Fleur do lys In stiver or gold
are sprinkled across tho comers or over tho
S hole surface of the case, which is oorded at
io edge with silver, according to tho fashion
Introduced lost year.
Such a furry, feathery, fuzzy winter as It ts
Sueh a time of stately magnificence The
tiniest tot on the avenue ts dressed out In the
traditional silk that will stand alone Gray Is
a favorito choice for the baby belles that trip
along so sedately bostde their mammas or big
sisters to tho matlnco or afternoon concert
For It Is getting to be qulto tho thing to take
the little ones out to graco tho afternoon box
in their gay little gowns. And tho fur is gray,
too, that edges the warm little coat with its
double cape and slashed basque over a plain
coAt The granny bonnet of gray is lined In
side with Pink around the grave little face
Underneath, the coat there is a smocked frock
of pale blue, with broad gathered bro
telles over a fine white gulmpe. And the
mamma's gown is nf roush, shaggy
finished cloth In dull old rose of a
light shade About tho bottom is a four-Inch
band of velvet edged with a narrow mil of fur
on either edge Tho seamless waist is fulled
Into a velvet corsage edfifd with fur at tho top
and having a most remarkable girdle made of
tho entire skin of a small unlrnul and fastened
nt tho back with the little creature's head for a
clasp and all the tiny little legs hanging In a
fringe As if this wore not oddity enough, the
front ot the waist has a bib-liko fall of creamy
Mechlin lace escaping from a diamond cres
cent Tho hat is big and sombre with droop
ing brim, picturesquely fringed with feathers,
and tied about with a white veil sprigged with
flowers and finished with a heavy border. So
warm and cosey.they seem as If they might with
comfort take a ride on a perambulating ice
berg and never shiver.
In evening gowns there is a thrifty deslrs for
substantial fabrics. Chiffon Is Indeed un
profitable and brocados rioh enough to be heir
looms are too expensive for the short-lived
ball dress, and so satin has been restored
to favor and forms the substantial foundation
for the delicate laco and chiffon frills to deco
rate. Tho same satin gown may do duty for
twoorthroo occasions, with a different set of
garnitures. A pretty effect is obtained by using
pale blue satin, the color of the day, in com
bination with white gnuzo embroidered with
silvor threads and brishtenod with Rhine
stones. Tho long, full sleeves now so essen
tial a part of tho ball dress will be pf the
gauze, also tho broad turned-down tucker
about the neok. Bufflos, with a borderof tho
embroidery, may cover the skirt entirely or
docorate only Its edge, according to fancy.
Butthoono esontlul feature from which thero
must be no deviation is tho girdle of four-inch
satin ribbon wound twice about the waist anu
tied in a little bow In tho centre of the back.
Two new Interpretations of the puzzloasto
where a lady may wear hor watch are found
among the season's novelties, Tho watch that
has been worn as a bracelet at the wrist or a
medal on the shoulder, that has beon Inserted
In card cases and umbrella handles, now is set
In a ring for the finger or as the clasp of the
small oholn portmonnales so much affected by
the swell young woman. The pocketbook of
gold wobblng. with the tiny gold watch cover
ing the clasp, is, of course, tho one the per
footly correct young man will present to his
best-beloved girl this Christmas tide
Stockings Increase In luxury nnd diversity,
and by stockings it must bo remembered that
tights are really understood, so universal Is
tho custom of wearing tho latter artlclo of
dress. With tho English or Goldsmith shoe
high ovor tho lnf-tep, with tab and olasp of
sliver, black stocklnss are still worn. For din
ner toilet these Goldsmith shoes comoin
shiny leather, with a largo Jet or silver buokle
covering tUe lost For evening there wo the
r
t i
fanciful Cinderella slippers, with which must bo
worn stockings nf laco as lino as hoar frost
traceries, ombroldered with crystal beadsor
Jewels. For the fashlonnble black embroid
ered ovonlng gowns worn now by ynung girls,
the lace stocking Is ot blaok. ombroldered with
steel and jot beads.
The poke bonnet Is with us again, recalling
visions of dainty ladles in skimpy skirts and
abbreviated waists, with sandalled slippers
and fringod mantlos. The bonnot Is of volvot
with a high brim In front a cluster of ostrich
feathers on ono side, velvet rosettes, and broad
strings tied In a stiff
little bow under tho ifSMF
chin. The shapo Is out hJVPa-L
a little more back from TtKal
the face than In the old mv sr
days, but the laoe frills r Pk
flutter on the brims. ILVJ'
and one or two rose- J-X,rZ'Lw
buds are tuoked far scfcttt
back beneath against j, KfA .
tho hair. Carriage hataf V Ifi
they wero called In -. -
1B2& and In tho old A. T. jy
fashion books of the' "
day may bo found the I
exact modf 1 of tho hat . .
now worn by fashionable Parislonnos. Bo turns
tho wheel of Damo Fashion's roulette
Now opera glass cases have a secret com
partment In the bottom ottho velvet or plush
bag. whoso clasp Is hidden from all savo tho
fair owner. In this hidden rcceptaolo aro
stowed away a powder puff, a comb, a bottlo ot
sal volatile two or threo hairpins, and tho
cover of tho case Is a mirror. A woman of or
dinary Ingenuity could mako a week's stay In
comfort with this condensed little toilet case
Linen cuffs are worn considerably with
tailor dressos or witholoth toilets less se
verely made They aro fastened with link
buttons In tho lnsldo of tho arms, and aro small
and close, as of necessity they mUBt be. Tho
stock of silk or ribbon 1b. however, succeeding
tho linen as a finish for tho throat It Is made
ot folded volvot ribbon, ono end fastening
under eyos on tho loft side and tho other form
ing thn cravat-Uke tlo In front
PBBTXT THINGS IN XBB HOV8BBOLD.
Tho Swam Be4 ArlLtlc Lamps an their
Dccoratloaa The l'e of the Xlrror-etlk
Table Mpreoda To Arrange the Table.
A pretty girl of tho falr-halrod Hsa type has
been fitting up a dainty nest In bluo and white
and gold for her own particular home Tho
walls are done with rich old brooado of bluo
and whlto In panols framed In gold. Tho car
pot Is blue, covered with rugs of whlto fur:
the toilet table dressod In whlto flutod pottl
coats ot dotted muslin, is bright with silvor
trinkets whoso aim and purpose only tho fatr
owner can divine But the most wonderful
thing In tho exqulslto little house is tho bod.
all ot white and gold, which Is mado ex
actly In tho shapo of the swan boat in
which Lohengrin sails away from tho
maiden whose woman's curiosity costs hor
her lover. The head of tho bod Is in the shape
of a shell, tho sides sloping down with grace
ful curves to the foot whore tho swan's head
ot gold completes the pretty fancy. Inside the
downy couch is mado up with a bluo spread
and bolster covered with dainty whlto lace
Just over tho head of tho bed. from a golden
hook In tho celling, a knot ot heavy rope
gilded, drapes a canopy of the white muslin,
which falls down either side the couch over
Inner curtains ot pale blue Liberty silk, caught
back halt way down with broad, soft ribbons
of blue A girl that wouldn't have sweet
dreams In a bed like that ought to sit up and
read "Paradlso Lost" or study social oconomy.
There Is method In the madness which puts
petticoats on tho chandelier and drosses up
the lamps In ball gowns ot tullo and tinsel.
Every bright woman knows that there Is a tat
tler In her drawing room that will tell tho only
secret she always keeps to horself. and tell It as
accurately, too, as the family Bible or the
SeBeH ' I
8Z(
tiresome old party, whose Johnny was horn
just tho year before hor own nativity. And
this merciless mischief maker Is the chando
Iler, whose unshaded rays, falling directly
upon a woman's face, bring out all the linos
nnd accontuate all tha hollows that time
lias traced therein. Ho the clovor woman
asks for lamps for Christmas presents, saves
up hor pocket money for candelabra,
and then softens even their subdued light with
wonderful creations of ribbon and laco as
elaborate and almost as expensive as a Felix
party drese Tho woman who must still de
pend upon the chandelier may effectually
modify its revelations bv dressing, up tho
globes In pale pink or yellow silk. The long
straight piece of silk of which the shade Is
made should bo Bhlrred on a ribbon at the top
and bottom, fitted tightly around the shade at
the top. and drawn down over the globe to tlo
around the bracket just above the stop cock.
For it is tho unshaded light coming through
the open clrolont the lower part nf tho globe
that adds the years to a woman's face.
However, the best scheme Is to do away with
the chandellor altogether, and so great Is tho
variety of lamps, of largo and small estate, of
high and low decree of gay or sombre per
sonality, that rooms can bo delightfully illum
ined by their kind and gentle radiance Tho
favorite lamp design of the season ts some
form ot the vuso motive, exoouted in porcelain
or slass. and sot In a frame of brass, silver, or
wrought Iron. The one and almost tne nnly
shado device Is tho pagoda, with scornfully
upturned corners, either four, six, or eight In
number. Tho size ot tho lamp seems to be a
mattor of small moment but the size of the
shade can be expressed only In tho single
word enormous. The lamp shado of to-day
has been ovoluted n Ions' way beyond tha
shade of a few years ago. Tho paper nnd tis
sue substances of which the old parasols wero
constructed have given placo to tho daintiest
and finest of silks, laces, chiffons, aud om
broldered gauzes. Few llowors are u sod in
combination with those materials, and thoy
&re of the finer French varieties, with almost
ib life and fragrance of tho real blossom.
One of tho prettiest now lamps is the Fronch
fleur do lys lamp ot white porcelain, adornod
with gold flour de lys in bold rollof. It comos
In the form of a Oreolan vase sot in a gold
standard. The shado Is of, whlto crApu du
chine, embroidered in gold thread, and lined
with pale yellow. Anothor effective illumi
nator has a vaso nf clear yellow china, set In a
wrought Iron network of vines with pointed
leaves and ourling tendrils. The shade of yel
low embroidered chiffon Is frillod about the
edse. Ilku a lady's skirt with a succession of
flounoos. one above the other, lapped closely,
llko tho potals of a flower. And all about the
puffings and trillings, of. the, top are perched
torMttoreuovr birds Jooklng pyw .to tn
."!.? t 'A -'. i ft . . 1
golden glow of tho light as if about to plunge
Fnto Its warmth. A pretty shade is made nf
yellow, with black lace flounces, set with jew
els of various huos. through which tho light
shimmers.. . , , .
Yellow shades very muoh frilled nnd puffed
havo strngsllng vines of orchid bloom, ulso
yollow, twined among the folds. Tho quaint
est shades are thoso made nr silk In exact
imitntlonoforchlds.but 7S.rs
exaggerated In. size, V T
with petals delicately I I . II
shaded and mottled, as (U J 1 L JJ
are the flowers from "li jl " , i
which thoy are cqplod. HJ T(?'l&if
Now, in buying n lnmp,)eqmJ)
first purohase. tho- Vr.tST'
shade whleh will cost x't
Ton all tho way from. $10 S'
to $30. and then select TTT
tho lamp, if .you havo l7n
money enough left Tho A
inferior lamp Is more IK J
offectlvo. when . hand- L M
eomelyshadod than the X 7
oxponslvo lamp with leol
tho cheap shade, as a I'M
plain woman hand- v
somoly dressed Is more T TV
admired than tho pretty pv J V7"v
ono in a badly fitting I Q4 J
gown. Tho .shado 104 T
frames may bs pur- - "
chased, and by provid
ing as muoh material , as for a gown, and
studying tho latest things in Fronch party
dresses for models, a woman with nothing
whatever to do may succeed in making n
shado or two for herself in tho course of the
winter if sho has good luck. Candles aro
tricked out too, In llttlo ballot dressos of Bilk
nod laco. a pretty concoit being to makoeaoh
of the shados on tho threo candlos of tho
candelabra In a contrasting but harmonious
tint
Tho artistic girl has discovered and utilized
tho possibilities of tho queor llttlo mirror
which hanrs in almost every old-fashioned
v kitchen. This mirror Is
f usually about eighteen
r InchOH wide and twice
feWMeTaTaTaTJeTeTel as long, and Is dlvidod
ZT, Into two parte In the
--j-j lowor half Is tho glass
J I and In tho upper on In-
tensely blue prlnooss
leading an Intensoly
yellow dog on an un
bearable green back
ground before a houso
sovoral sizes smallor
than the girl or the
dog. The Ingenious
girl enamels tho frame
of this mirror, with
whlto. or covers It with
soft brocaded silk In
pale tints. Tho picture
- P m w 1 - "ho replaces with., a
r-T.w.T.i.uM bu o( oxqUgttc needle
work, or a dainty water-color, and hangs the
wholo thing up with ribbons Instead ot a
cord or wire In her own especial apartment
nnd to tho dreary old mirror the paBt Is it
dream and life n festival of joy since it has
only to refloct truthfully tho pretty face of tho
fairy who has glorlflod It
Ono large rose of vollow or crimson Is some
times utilized ob a lamp shade, and odd little
fans of gay paper plumes sometlmos deoorato
a reading lamp. But tho shade proper Is tho
size and shape of a Japanese houso roof and
mado of the richost materials with most gen
erous garniture
The women who have a thirst for culinary
knowlodgo nnd a desire to partake of the samo
food as omperors will be interested in the
latest Imperial gastronomlcal freak. It la a
wondortul moat pudding which tho German
Kaiser discovered on a recent jauntln Prussia.
Take a pudding mould and buttering It lay in
boiled ham in thinnest strips, a Inyor of fried
potatoes, a layer of lean bacon, ono ot mush
rooms, ono of chopped meat and ono of
mashed potatoes. Thon.eoverlng all with good
gravy, bake In a slow ovon for several hours. It
has beon tried on the Gorman Chancollor nnd
ho did not die. Still it Is bost for tho woman
who makes the pudding to consider well what
manner of man sho is cooking for. to reflect on
his heredity, longuvity ot ruce, and strength of
constitution.
Brocadod silk of hoavy quality Is brought
into servico now for tabln spreads, and In
gonlous housewives haunt bargain counters
for remnants ot the beautiful Marie Antolnetto
pattorns. Into the central square of theso
spreads clever noodlewouon draw silks of tho
colors used In tho brocade, and for compara
tively small expenso secure a really handsome
tablo cover. Tho old marble-topped tables
with carved and bowed legs aro being brought
out of their hiding plueos in lumber rooms ond
attics, decorated with the pretty spreads, and
made to do duty again ns parlor ornaments.
There Is nothing that glvos n room suoh an
Inviting, homy atmosphere as u moderately
larse tablo in somo cosey corner, strewn oyer
with books and now magazines in classified
orderly disorder. You may put neckties In nil
the vases, scatter bric-a-brac with lavish band,
decorate everything In a room with, lino, em
broidery nnd needlework, but tho plain little
room, unadorned with draperies aud devoid of
crooked-nosod pitchers and painted plaques,
with its book-strewn table, with an easy chair
alongside and shadod light theieon. will
double discount it in inviting comtort and
home-like roflnomunt
All mnnnerof garden vogetablos are being
duplicated In fnncy articles this year, lted
checked apples of silk do duty as pincushions,
and small pumpkins in excollont Imitation of
tho great American dainty aro mado to servo
n similar useful purpose Long, slim radishes
of silk are UBed as emeries, and very good imi
tations ot cucumbers and corn aro knitted tor
holders.
The American housewife petting up nn es
tabllshmentln Germany will bestnrtledto find
that, with the patient faithful, well-disciplined
German sorvunt tho more suggestion of a
'weekly wash." except, perhaps, for young
children, will cause a revolt fcvan the poorest
German clrls havo plenty of clothes, and any
thing under a monthly wash Is considered tho
height of poverty and meanness. Jelthor will
this otherwise tractablo maiden submit to
wearing a cap. Her regalia is a dark-bluo
apron for morning, a whlto ono for aftornoon.
IHTEJlESXiyO IAFOH3IATIOX.
A Famllr of Women LawycreCUrle In a
Tng-of-War Contest The Press League
of Chicago Pattl a Itruaette Again.
The Woman's Baking Company of Chicago
has just been incorporated with a capital
stock of $250,000. It Is composed of W. a T. U.
women of tho Windy City, and is pledgodto
uso only tho purest materials, to havo tho
work done entirely by women, and to run tho
establishment on strictly business prlncip les
Although tho female suffraso bill has boen
Abandoned by tho Victorian Government in
deference to the wishes of tho Labor party,
still political agitation has by no moans sub
sldod among the women and thoir supporters.
Tho womon crowd tho parliamentary galleries,
hiss their opponents, and applaud their sym
pathizers In deflanco of parliamentary propri
eties. Tho object of most vindictive demon
stration on the part of tho ladlos was Mr. Gil
lies, tho lato Premier who said that tho Houso
should glvo no countenance to "fads," and
that the adoption of fomalo suffrage would.
In his opinion, mean a political revolution and
would lead to domestic discord.
"Pier, Mrs. Pier, and tho throo Misses Pier,
Attorneys and Counsellors at Law; Mrs. Kate
Pior, United 8tatcs Court Commissioner."
So runs thoannonncomontof a most romark
ablo law Arm in Mllwaukoe Some years ago
Mrs. Kute Pior. tho only woman mnglstrato in
the Unltod States, found herself Involved In
business porploxltles so intricate as to rendor
ltcheaporfor her to become n lawyer herself
than to hire one Acting under the advice ot
hor counsel, sho entered upon tho study of law,
which she completed in company with
her cldcbt dauchtor ut the Wisconsin
State Unlvorsity. By a recent act of the
Legislature ' Mrs. I'lor was mado Court
Commissioner, und rocoivod tho honor to sit
among tho barrlstors, tho first woman In tho
world thus honored except Portia. Kato Pior,
Jr., Is tho trial or jury merubor ot tho Arm.
Miss Caroline und Miss Harriet Pier graduated
from tho law department of the university In
July of tho probont year. Thotormor Is mak
ing a Bpocial study of admiralty law. Tho lat
ter is in tho ofllco with her mother and sistor.
Thero was a unlquo and novel tug-of-wnr
contest out in San Francisco not long age Its
most interesting foaturo was tho make-up of
the toame Tho pullers woro twenty of the
girl pupils in one ot tho schools, and tho match
was betwoon tho blondes nnd tho brunettes. A
dainty laco handkorohlof tlod on the ropo bo
twoen tho opposing factions and tho point ot
conquest lay in pulling this porfumed scrap to
the one side or tho other. Victory soomed to
favor the blondos. for though tho brunettes
pulled with a will, tho blondes took tho mattor
more coolly, and, bosldes, had tho odds in
wulsht. Tho contest was not fully decided, for
thotug-of-wiir umtlnf'O was inulorloubly put
to un end by a horrllled woman teacher.
Tho only licensed woman real rstato dealor
in Washington Is Miss Graco Thonia'i. A year
ago sho seoured hor llrst license, and when
sho had paid the regular foe of S50 she had
a capltaloT 05 cents lett with which to begin
operation. She .& however, a good bum.
j
noss training in that special line as well as
plenty ot enterprise, good sense, nnd grit.
This year, aftor paying again the Government
tithe, sho has a snug llttlo capital of dollars
nnd dimes.
Dr. John E. Owen, medical director of tho
Chicago Exposition, in compliance with a re
quest from tho lady managers, has promised
to put women upon his stnft and allow
thorn to rank In all respects equal with men
In the Exposition hospital. Thero will bo nlso
a hospital In tho Woman's Building fully
equippod with physicians and trnlnod nursos.
A London housewife engaging A servant re
cently was startled by ti.o modest request,
iou will allow mo.uin'am. an evening a week
for my vloln lessons" In the noxt contury
the forvin maid with a soul not cultured
abovo dusters and silvor polish will bo a more
rare typo than has boon tho woman sonlnr
wrangler and Voator of Philosophy In this tho
woman's cyole
The Press Leaguo ot Chicago, like the Press
Club of Now York. Is composed entirely of
women earning their living by newspaper
writing, nnd whs organized for the purposo of
oopperatlpn in. acquiring and disseminating
Information.. Until tho close of tho Exposi
tion tho headquarters of tho leaguo will be In
Chicago, after which Its location may bo
changed by vote of tho mombors.
Tho Quoon of Portugal is accredited by fash
fonjonuers with boing the most drossy woman
In turqpe Her pale complexion and auburn
hair admit of great latitudo In dross variety.
Ana she indulges In ovory caprlco of fashion.
The Empress i of ltussla wears everything small
and neat, to harmonlzo with hor dollcato per
sonality. Palo blue, muuve and croen aro hor
favorite colors. The Princess of Wales haB the
roputntl not being the mosttastofullydrossed
of all tho royalties. Tho Empress of Gormany is
respondent In tho traditionally Iraporiol stylo
of ornato olegance. In public, but in private
drosses very, simply. And the heortbrokon
Empress of Austria, cares nothing nt all for
dress, but spends her leisure hours n tho
study of modorn Greek. In which languago
sho convorsos woll.wlth a Grecian attondant
who is always with her.
Tho most interesting character in the Chero
koo nation Is Mrs. Stella Chrlstlan.who donned
male attiro and fought bravely In tho Confod
orato army during tho rebellion. She was
wounded nt Elk. Horn Farm. and. hor sex
boing discovered, was disoharged. Later In
tho war sho served, again under Gen. Marma
duke. Subsequently she marrlod an Arkansas
farmer, and Is now the mother of nine boy
warriors.
Mile Batnt-Omer, a French lady 64 years of
ago. is to join thn ranks of lady explorers, nnd
will mako a tour round the world following a
epurso south of and parallel with tho equator.
Her purposo ts to colloct data regarding tho
llfo ?,fworaPn nnd tho training of ohlldren In
of Paris, bho tabes no lusgngo with her.
nnd expects to extend her travols ovor a period
or threo years. Sho has already mado a voyago
round tho world, paying hor own oxponsos.
The young Empress of China, contrary to all
traditional customs, is taking a prominent
placo In publlo life Formerly no ono was
permitted to appear on tho road traversed by
her Majesty under ponalty of death. Nowths
Emperor permits his subjocts to lino tho
btroets when ho nnd his consort travel and to
approach thorn with petitions, to which thoy
listen In tho kindest manner. Tho young Em
press has commanded tho custom of sacri
ficing human beings in order to propltlato
tho Goddess of Silk Culture to cease And sho
has assisted In planting mulberry trees In the
forecourt of. tho tomple whoro tho sacrifices
once took plaoe
Mrs. Hugglns, wlfo of tho English astrono
mer, is a most able assistant to her husband
In his astronomical labors, and koeps a record
for horself of her observations. Astronomors
at tho Lick Obseryntory have been exchanging
lata or lato. and the Lie: man has assured
Aire Hugglns that she has accomplished bet
ter results with hur inforior instruments than
he and his assistants achieve with tho finest
instruments In tho world.
Although German womon havo not as yet
succeeded in getting admitted to the Gorman
univorsltios n bright Atnoricun girl. Miss Gen
try, has coaxod from tho surly authorities per
mission to attend lectures In tho Berlin Uni
versity. This is tho llrst tlmo on record that
tho favor has been grantod to a woman.
There is nn Utopian country on the footstool
where divorco conditions are oven less exact
ins than In.Chicuso or Dolaware. In the
Island of Madagascar the dlssutislled husband
has only to glvo his wlfo a piece of money and
to say. " Madame. I thank you," in ordpr to
bo divorced. W hat a pay place for Monu Calrd
ana her followers Madugascar would bel
The woman Inventor who derives fame and
pelf, and tho affection of her grateful country
women as well, should set hor wits to work in
devising somo simple and portable contrl
vancn that would bo to tho woman's skirt what
the man's trousers strotcher Is to tho man's
garmeuts. Tho tightly fitting skirt, owing to
tho necessity which the wearer fools of occa
sionally sitting down, will get baggy at the
knees, nnd ns yet no ono has boon bright
enough to evolve tho skirt stretcher. If this
invention ever materializes, It is safe to wager
that a man will be its originator. The woman
inventor will concern herself only with more
important discoveries.
An F.xohango for Women's Work has been
opened by tho ladles of tho American colony
In Paris on the plan of tho exchanges in this
country. American pies, cake, nnd other
specialties are provided, u circulating library
ha been orcanized, and onen euch week mu
sical mutinro.s are given by the liestartists un
der tho patrouago of the ludies who are inter
ested In the enterprise.
Old Duke Ludwls in Bavaria is very
wretched just now because tho woman for
who-o lovo ho renounced his rights in tho
family succession, and hy morcanatlo mar
riage placed himself beyond the pale of polito
society, is dying of un Incurable malady. For
thirty-five years tho married lovers havo lived
together In delightful sympathy and harmony,
which has recompensed fully tho man who
ruined his prospects and blighted his future
for tne sake of possessing tho woman ot his
choice. Tho Barunoss was previous to hor
marriage an ordinary coryphee ct Uio Munich
Opora House
Aphilanthrnpto Russian lady who owns sev
eral villages has closed all tho liquor stores in
her towns and established In thoir plueos toa
houses, where tho peasants can buy meat,
rolls and all the tea they can drink for a small
sum. On Sundays tho lady and hor husband
spend tho afternoon nt these tea houses ontor
talnlns thoir peasant guests with extracts
from the nowspupers or pleasant books.
Dr. Araboll Kenealy vlows the fact that
many women must remain spinsters bv reason
of thoir preponderance in numbers with choor
ful equanimity, for she says: "The Increased
und Increasing surplus of women Is forcing
upon us tho Impossibility of marrying all our
daughters, ami wu aro compelled therefore to
provldo thorn with professions whereby they
can make provisions forthemsulvos. It is this
swelling ortho tldo until It has overflowed tho
domestic preclude that has carried us out
Into tho current of tho larger and fuller life."
Pattl Is fairer than over, now that she has
discarded her blond locks for tho familiar
dusky ones, her admirers say. Sho has won
hur suit against tho Itusslan lmprossario who
compelled her to pay the large sum for breach
of contract to sing nt Moscow nnd St. rotors
burg. And sho is on hor wav for another faro
woll tour in America in radiant good spirits.
"My earnings during my career? Nothing.
Nothing 1 say. Money It comes; It goes I
keep no account I don't bother. I havo
enough. I never calculate. I can't calculate."
Ho says tho Divine Bernhardt. crystalliKlngthe
gt nural suutlmunt of the urtlstlc temperament
Threo hospitals In Philadelphia are managed
exclusively by women for tho treutmout ot
women's dlseasee
One hundred and fifty young womon have
during the pust blx months, tuken up timber
claims.
Mile. Lcclero. after passing a rigid examina
tion in Paris, was udmltted into tho brother
hood of full-fledged apothecaries. Although
thoroaro plonty nf woman doctors. Miss Lccloro
is the llrst woman apothecary.
TWO WAYS JO KKKV .f.V VMMtBT.ZA.
One la Elegant and Kxprn.lTe, the Other le
Cheap mid Good.
A young woman who had half a dozen times
either mislaid or boon robbed of hor bost um
brella finally concluded to try an original way
of keeping it Sho had u now ono mado ami
mounted on nn Ivury-toppod stick. Then sho
had tho heavy plcco of Ivory carved Into nn
excollent counterpart ot her own head and
face No ono looking at tho bit of Ivory work
for an Instant could mistake tho likeness be
tween the ownor and tho hoad on the handle
Her frlonds prcdlctod that tho beauty of tho
handlo would only add to the Inducement to
steal, for tho head nnd face woro exceedingly '
beautiful, and the shrewd young woman know
porfectly well that they woro when she ordered
It. But the htrunge part of it was that It didn't
Forslx yours tho owner has carried that um
brella, through rnln or shine, having u new
rover put un when necessary, und uulvonco
lias she inlh"ed It. That tlmo sho left It stand
ing in a shop, and before she Had made tho
rounds of the place n polite floorwalker hud
returned It to her with n smile.
"1 can keep my umbrollu just as well as that
and not huve it cost me half so much, either,"
said, hor best friend whon she saw the new um
brella.,, "I oan bo Ingenious, toe and I'm not
proua." So iu( IniWt tas edge of hor new
RoYal akins 1
lesa Powder 1
ABSOLUTELY PURE
UthjwectVhoIome Bread
Delicious Pastry
A Cream of Tartar Baking Powder. Found
.a PvN
Superior to all others in Strength and Leaven- m
ing Power. U. S. Government Report !
umbrella she cut a round hole as big as a half
dollar. It didn't hurt the usefulness n tho ar
tlclo tho least bit In the world, but It did Im
pair tho desirability of It sufficiently to keep
the other members of tho family from carrying
It off, or from tho mistakes of tho. casual per
son In the shops. This ingenuity oxcltod much
curiosity, but tho young woman found It so ef
fective that she carried thn umbrella until llt
tlo of it was loft but the hole
SHE PRACTISES ZA1T.
Mile Blleeseo. AUoreey and Counsellor la
Bucharest.
Tho admission last year of Mile Barmlsa
Blloesco to practise law in tho Fronch courts
evoked columns ot spirited writing from tho
Parisian press and revolutionized tho classic
precincts ot L'Ecolo du Droit Fancy tho tall,
graceful figure of a girl of -3, with dark hair
brushed high off an lntollootual forohoad,
sparkling dark eyes, and rich brunotto color
offset by a natty gown ot brown cloth, with
sleeves and trimmings of brown velvet shot
with gold, and a dashing hat garlanded with
pink silk hollyhocks, and you havo the por
trait of Mile Blleeseo as sho was wont to ap
pear In tho boulevards of Parle
ULLE. SAHMI81 BtLCESCO,
The only child of a wealthy banker of Buchar
est tho capital of Rnum.inla, it was In obedlenoe
to her father's wtsho- that she pursued the
study of tho law. Carefully Instructed by pri
vate teachers at home, sho passed the exam
ination with the young men In the college of
Bucharest taking, at the age ot 17, tho dogreo
ot Bachelor of Letters and Science Sho then
sought Paris and applied for admission to
L'Ecolo du Droit to pursue tho course with tho
young men. Tho application created a tumult
in tho classlo temple Three professors In tho
faculty strenuously opposed her admission on
aground that tho young mon might bo want
ing in respect toward her.
In a body of 500 mon sho took the highest
rank. and this intellectual triumph outweighed
tho moral scruples of the faculty, and she was
assigned to a seat aloof, but In tho same room
with tho students. At tho rinse of tho first
year a professor. In a public address, thanked
tho young men for tho chivalry of their oon
duct toward Mile. BUcesao.and warmly praised
hor Industry, perseverance and dignity.
Six years are the term of tho apprenticeship
of tho law student ot France During these
years Mile. Blleeseo mlssod but ono day. Her
devoted mother was her constant companion,
going dally with hor to the college, nnd occu
pying a seat at her sldo during all the todious
lectures of six laborious years. The port
cullis lifted, It will bo Interesting to nnte tho
generations aro yet required to obliterate tht
most crippling Institution of tho Latin ruce.
the chaperon.
Tho French advocate wears in court a black
gown with angel sleeves and a round black
cap. A witty Bayard of the tribuno summarily
dismissed thedifllculty. "An opposition can
not be put upon an opposition, satth tho law.
Mademoiselle already wears n gown, and that
of the advocate cannot bo put ovor Itl"
Tho last year of tho course is given to the
preparation nf tho thesis. MHo. Blleeseo
argued thn rights of the mother in Itoman nnd
Fronch law. It Is tho first time the subject
bus been legally treated. The thesis won tho
npproval of the most radical eonsorvators.
while the suffragists of socialistic tendencies
accuse Mile. Blleeseo of being narrowed by tho
Influence of her preceptors.
Mile. Blleeseo is now practising at the bar of
her native city. Bucharest Accomplished
pianist clever artist sho Is versed In the lan
guages of Europe. " I am studying English."
she writes, "and hope to master it in tlmo to
enjoy the World's Fair."
HAS A WOJIAS TIME TO BEADt
One Case or Choice Hrtwern Ideas and Em
broidered l.tnen.
They woro talking ovor tho teacups. "But,"
said the Little Mothor, "I get so tired that I
havon't the heart, letalono tho hoad, to read."
"Do you know," said tho doctor brusquoly.
turning upon tho shrinking little woman nnd
setting her teacup down on ono side of her
saucer, "women havo no earthly or heavonly
butdnoss to get so tired."
" I know thoy lmven't" sho answered meekly,
"but then thoy do."
Thero was a look of assent among the other
four. There wore six of them, all mothers and
hnuBokoeepors. The doctor whs young, acuto,
enthusiastic, and a little severe,
"It Is a question of tlmo. ovon more than
strength," said tho eldest of the group. "I am
sure wo womon all want to read and keep our
wits shining, but the days eomo In full of
promlso and go out In poxtponomont."
"But you havo all tho tlmo there Is," bogan
tho doctornrgumontatlvely.
"No, wo don't" spoko up tho black-haired
woman: "thero Is nil the tlmo thorols, but we
don't havo it Tho ohlldren and tho butcher
nnd the casual caller get it Wo havo no fchare
in it ut all."
"Let me tell you." said a soft voice, with a
Southern accent. "A good many yours ago I
found myself slipping away behind In tho
woild of books I had always lived In. I was a
conscientious housekeeper, und thought I
fust let no little point escape me, nnd so the
I I'isboit leisure that made me free nf thn world
of literature was frittered away. One day I sit
down Mid thought It nut. I mndeu llttlo re.
vlowof howl pnssod my time. This was about
tlie way the liavs ran. I rose at 7 o'clock, und
wo hrcukfasto.l ut 8, That was as far us my
method carried me. After that 1 did various
things, got thu children off to school, dusted
anil set the rooms right. Often I did a shuro
ot the chitmberworlc At any rate thero was
always something. If It wasn't actlvo
housework It was sewing. And then thorn was
fancy work. And thon thorn were culls nnd
cullers, nnd tho entertainments that nn woman
ought to miss, because they do brighten und
hearten her bo. And those things filled each
day to the brim, and made up tho weeks and
the months und tho years. And now, I was
getting shabby Intellectually. It would not do.
" Something hud to do. and I didn't know
vvbnt it could bo. 'It can't bo tho children,'
I, said, hull in fun, hult In hysterics, ' nor
Tom. und so long as they're here they'll
have to bu clothed, and fed. und washed : houce
what pertains to them cuii't go. As lor myself,
I haven't any time consuming comforts in llfo
to give up. I haven't
"'Household linen!' said something In my
ear, qullo like a box on that useful member. I
sat up stiff, tarda of accusing embroidery
dancod before me ,1 had aporfoot mania for
bed linen and table linen, hemstitched, and
Sinnogramed.and stitched full of ornamenta
. -P V.. th9 prld9 my 0OUi and the tor.
raont of my nerves, for I hnvo kept mysolt tn'a ?J
bad terapor half the, time stitching away at ,J
tho big pieces, nnd tho llttlo pieces, and tha j?.
useful ploces. nnd tho useless ones. "a
Thoro woro scores of monograms and ,
hundreds of hours sowed Into those things.
I thought nbout it a whllo longer. I roallr
could t see thnt I had slept better for my hem .JJ
stitched shoots, or eaten bettor for my om j ,s
broldnrod. nankins and dolles. und Icortalnly VJ2
Wasn't richer lu purse, or health, or brnlns. JA
Thank you. sir.' I said nt last as I got up j !ia
to tho something that hud whispered that tdos , "3j
tome 'I'm not so old and stupid but, I oan I Jl
learn. From that day tn this I've never sot ,-M
another stitch In runcy work. It's pretty and ' '9
Its tempting, nnd lt worth having. But I ia
get a solid hour a day for rending and I'm not .'JJ
nshumod to talk with my betters, nnd my hus- ' jJ
band has more respect for my opinions nnd sr 4
havoL And as between having embroidered i ,js
liuonnrhnving intelligent idoas I don't so ' '('A
any choice" 1
A TOUXO BAtlOXESS, (J
w
Who Will Go From a Hchool la Hnn Froa. . -;Jl
Cisco to a Large Katate In Germany. ' A5
Baroness von Barnokow. who was known un- ! $jj
til recontly as Ida Green. Is about 15 yoars ot hi
age and a pupil In tho Cosmopolitan Grammar t '"J
School in San Francisco. Sho was asleop ono "tij
night recently when her stopfathor called her. ' :,i9
saying: " Wnko up Ida, I havo news for you." UM
"What's tho matter ?" sho askod sleepily. 'it
"You have been declared to be the real Bar j
oness and holross to your father's estate" Is
"All right papa, just attond to It," sho ro , A
spondod. and then fell asleop again. :
The nows was In a despatch to tho offoct m
that tho caso ot Mrs. Kathorlno Boblnson and jt.:
Ida Green, who had suod for the estate of tha 1
lato Baron von Barnckow, had beon decided lit .1
their favor. It Is bellovod that tho estate will -;jf
amount to $1,500,000. after tho Baron's dobU k
havo beon paid. 'M
Tho suit was Instituted In March last Mrs. jj
Robinson alloglng that sho had boon the wife J
ot tho Baron and that Ida Groon was his '4?
daughter. The Baron, who was an offloer la H
the German army, bocamo dlsslpatod and fled) n
JUr.ONESS VON BUWr.KOW. fl
to this country about eighteen years age la
Han Francisco ho bocamo a hotel runner and 9
was known ns Fred Grcon. Subsequently hs ) j
npnnod a barroom. Un the train going to 9
San Francisco ho became acquainted
with Kathorlno Oalllgan. and In lU7ti
they wero married. A daughter was
born to thorn. A short time uftor tho
mnrrlagc his dissipation Increased, und ho do-
sorted ills family. Twelve yi-ars after tho mar-
riuge thowom.'in got a divorce, und u yonrlater
married Mr. Kobiuson. a inurlix-r. Tho Baron
had returned to Germany us the heir to tho
estate, nnd had married another woman with-
out getting n divorce He died in 1(137. and tha
Countess von Moltkc, his sifter, who leurnod fH
some of the farts nl hi former marriage.
nskod Consul-General KdwanU to obtain all ,
the particulars. About a year ago Chief of
Polleo Crowlev of San Friinelsp" found Mrs.
Itobinson nnd Ida Green, nnd notified them of ",
thn death of the Huron von ISarneknw, or Frorl H
Greon. With the nooosary affidavits proving; ;
the marriage and the Identity of the Baron.
the suit was Instituted. It is put thn Intention
of Mrs. Boblnson to send her daughter to Gor- . .
muny Immediately.
Around-llic-World Onlflt. H
It would seem that Dr. Allen Stocklmm of H
Chicago had reduced tho amount of clothes
with which n woman can travel to u minimum. J
Dr. btockhnm sailed from New York, a few H
duys ngo. for a six months' trip around tha
world. She curried a small square handbag.
containing her entire outfit except what sha H
wore Tho sum of theso hitter gurmonts was H
this: Ono union suit of light wool; n divided H
skirt of blue serge, lined: a black-cloth gown.
made In onn piece: n long serge travelling;
coat; a black bonnet und gloves; heavy soft H
kldboots.nnd black wool stockings. In her bag; H
sho carried a second union suit, like tho onn H
she wore, and one u little heavier, a pair ot
ciiuestrlaiitlghts.il second pair of stockings.
n black silk princess gown und u hodroom
wrapper, ulso of silk, one cotton night gown.
two neck handkerchiefs nf black silk un I two
of white, to fold Inside tho uecki of her gowns.
which sho wore low. hall u dn.en pocket hand-
kerchiefs, and n black scurf for headgear in
crossing. That was ull not a bandbox, not a
petticoat, not even a frill. " What under tha
firmament urn women coming tn f suys soma
man under his breath. "Solid comfort, good
sir, und luss nonsense about it "
Thrilling Advenmre of a Miner,
Void It. .V,v Ll'" I'utrtof.
John Clnrksnn tells nn interesting story ot H
how he en mo near being devoured by a larga
nimyofrats in tho Baker coal hank. It was
his etiMoin to cook his meal In the coal banlc H
ut dinner time. One duy as he was sitting;
before a lire boiling Ills meat, ho was startled UH
to hear the noise mado by running rate Tho
odor ottho cooking meat permeated th bunk. H
attracted the attention of tho rodents, ana HUH
thoy camo tripping along to the tire ut a lively
rate. John says ho thought the "old bob"
was after lit in. In a little while thero must
havo been fully live hundred rats gathored H
about hi ni. mid his heart wus in his mouth.
Ho throw them a piece of the meat, and whllo HUH
they fought for it lie stole away, When work-
ing In the mines the men regularly feud thosa H
rodents, us thoy aro of some use to thorn.
They always seem to scentanycoiulngdnngor. H
such as tho fulling of banks or cuving In ot H
walls, und rush out of thu place, which Is a 4H
warning to the workmen.
Ilia Trap Curried GO by u llnuurd.
J rem IA WV'hbiit' 'l itomluy Attn H
A liny living nt Letvos missed ono ifhlamusk- JH
rut trap-. H, chain of which was broken. Indl-
eating that the trap hud been curried a way by aUH
something stronger than a niUhkrat. Two HH
weeks ulterwurd hu found tho tiap in llussoU's UBH
woods, and caught In it wus u largo turkey UBH
buzzard fastened by the leg, Tho trap was BH
opened and the vulture Hew away. Alongside anmmfl
of tho bird whllo It was In tho imp were two BH
eels, which aro supposed to havo buca hrODKal smmmi
to tho captive by other buzzards. N
i -..
"1