Newspaper Page Text
I , , U. .,' - s-' J
Pages 21-28. (ll'lll JtttT' ' Pages 21-28. ! NEW YORK, SUNDAY. DECEMBttK 6, 1891. MARK TWAIN. AT TOE SHRIKE OP ST. WAGNER. (Copyrfcht 1891 bjr B. L. Clsm.ti) Batrxoth. Aug. 2,-It was at Nuremberg that w struck the Inundation of musio-rnnd otrangora that was rolling down upon Bay- reutb. It had boon long since we had seen sue.n multltudos of excited and struggling people. It took a good halt hour to pack thorn id pair thorn Into tho trnln and It wastho 'longest train wo linvo yot soon In Europe IJuromborg had boon witnessing this sort of exporlonco a couplo of times a day for about 1 -two woeks. It glvos one an impresslvo sonBo I .ot tho magnitude of this blonnlal pilgrimage I For a pilgrimage is what It Is. Thedevotvos W .eomo from the very onds ot tho ourth to wor- I .ship their prophet in his own Kunba In his .own Mocca. M If you aro living In Now York or Ban Fran- .Cisco or Chicago or anywhero else In America. I and you eonclude. by tho mlddlo ot May. that E you would like to attond tho Bayreuth opera I two months and a half tutor, you must uso tho I cable and get about It Immediately, or you will get no soats. and you must cablo for lodgings, too. Then It you are lucky you will get scuts la tho last row and lodgings in tho frlngo of tlio town. If you stop to wtito you will get nothing. Thoreworo plenty of people In Nu remberg when we pnssod through who had como on pllgrlmago without first socurlng seats and lodgings. They- had found neither in Bayrouth : thoy had walkod Bayreuth strcots a while In sorrow, then gono to Nuremberg .and found nolthor boda nor standing room, .and had walked thoso qunlnt strcots all night waiting for tho hotels to open and empty their guosts into the trains, and so make room for these, tholr dofoatod brethren and sisters in tho faith. Theyliadondiyrodfrom thirty to forty hours' railroading on th Continent of Europe with all which that lmp'dos of worry, fatlguo, aud nnnnclal impoverishment and all thoy had got and all thoy woro to got for It wai handlncss nnd aosiu-acy in kicking thom selvej.ncqulrodby pructlco in tho back strouts of tho "two towns wfion other pooplo woro in bod; folr back thic." must go over tint un Bpoakaido jojvnov with tholr pious mlssiou unfulfifjod. Thosto humiliated outcasts hid tho fro fray aid un irushod nnd apologotlo look ot vet'cats and their oyes woro glazed with drowalney., tUnl e bodies wjro ulroop from crown ta' sole- and nil klnd-hoartod poo plo refraitod d-om nuking thorn If thoy li.ut been to Bayrjmth and falloJ to connect us knnwinfjjj-would Ho. Wo re sjtwd'hero ( Bayrouth) about mid-afternoon a'j 'r jiy Saturday. Wo woro of the wis tad 'had , scoured lodgings and opera scats ,feant!is in advance. I" Mfjvmuilcjl critic, nnd did not como her tv 0o osnys ubout the opjr.nnd do Hv iciudgmont npan thulr merit. Tiio little c' jildron of Bayrouth could do that with u liner i Tm path) nnd ,11 broader Intelligence than I. Xonly caro to brlni fojr or Ave pilgrims to tho opera3. pilgrims able to appreciate them nnd anjoy them. What I might write about tho .performances tj put In my odd tlmo would be .offered to the public ns inoruly u cat' view of .a king, and hot of didactic vaIuo. Xtdi:whtoli''wa9 BunUaf.'wc left for tho opera house that is to sny. tho Wagnor irepple-a: little aftor tho middle of tho after noon. Tho groat bulldlug stinds all by itsolf. grand and lonely, on high ground outsldo tho town. We woro warned that If wo- urrlvod after 4 o'clock Wo should bo obliged to pay two dollars nnd a half npicou extra by way of fine. We saved that; und it may bo remarked hero that this is the only opportunity F.uropo olTjrs of Bating money. There was a 1.1c crowd in the grounds about tho building, und tho ladles' drosses took tho sun with line effect I do not moan to lntlmato that tlin ladles wera In full dross, for that war. not so. The drosses wero ipretty, but neither sex whs In evening dress. Tho interior of tho building is Hiniple so vorelyso: but the o is nj occasion tor color .and deooratlon. since tne penplj sit in tho dark. Tho auditorium has the shape of a 'keystone with the stage at tno narrow end. 'Tnero is an aisle on each side, but no alslo In "the body of Uio house. JCuch row of seats ox tends In an unbroten curve from one Aide of the house to tho i-thor. Thoro are seven en trance doors on o.'ion slue or tne theatre and four ut tho butt end eighteen do-irs to admit and emit 1.050 ilersons, Tho number of tho particular door b which you aro to enter tho house or leave It is printed on your ticket, nnd you can uso no door but that one. Thus, crowding and confusion aro impossible. Not eo many as a hundred people usj any one door. This is better than having the usual land useless) elaborate fireproof arrange ments. It is tho rondel theatre of the wnild. It fan boomptieU wnile the second hand of a watch make ltd circuit It would be entirely fcufo even If it woro bulltof Jucifer mntchos. II your seat is noar tho centre of a row and you enter late, you must work your way along u rank or about twenty-llvu ladies and gentle men to got to it Yet this causes no trouble, tor evei ybody f tnnds up until all the seats are lull, and tho filling is accomplished In n very If minutes. Then nil sit down, nnd you have solid mass of 1.500 hundred Jiuads mnking a fcteep cellar-door slant from tho rear of tho house down to tho stage. All the lights worn turned low. so low that tun congregation sat in a deep and solemn gloom. The funereal rustling of dresses and the low buzz of conversation began to dlo swiftly down, nnd presently not the ghost of u isouiid was left. Ihls profound -mid Increas ingly Impressive stillness continued yet dur ing korao time the best preparation (or mil fi. speutnclc. or speech conceivable. I should think our show people would have Invented or imported thntBlmplenndlmpresslvoduvico for securing nnd solidifying tho attontlonor an Jiudienco long ago; instead of which ther con tinue to this day toopon u performance ngaiust a deadly competition in tho form of noise, con tusion, und a scattered interest. finally, out of darkness and distance and mystery soft rich notes rose upon tho still ness, and from his grave tho dead magician began to weave his spoils about his disciples and stoop their souls in his enchantments, ihore was something strangely Impresslvo in tho fancy which kept intruding itself that tho composer was conscious in Ills grave of what was going on hure. nnd that thoso divine sounds wore tho clothing of thoughts which were-at this momont passing through bis brain, not rocognlzed and famlllarnnos which had issued "JJi it at somo formor time. 1 ho entire overture long as It was, was played to a dark house with tho curtain down, -it was exquisite, it was dellnlous. Hut straightway thoroafter. of course camo the singing, nnd ltdoosseom to mo that nothing can make a Wagner opera absolutely perfect and satisfactory to the untutorod but to lenvo out the vocal parts. I wish 1 could soo a Wag ner opera dono in pantomime once. Then one would have tho lovelv orohostrntlon un jexed to listen to nnd batho his spirit in. und tho bowllderlngly beautiful sconpry to intoxi cate lis eyes with, and tho dumb acting opuldnt mar thoso pleasures, bocnuso Jhero isn't oiton anything In the Wagner opera wiit ono would call by such n vlolent-,namo as acting; as a rule all you would see would bo a ''''"Pie ,o( silent people, one of (lintu standing Mill, the other untelilns lllos. Of course. 1 m "t """ly mean that he would bo catching lies, l only moan-that the usual oporntlo ges tures, which consist in reaching first one hand j out Into the alt and then the other, might ' juggcht tho sport I, speak of If the operator at- tended fctrlcfly to business und uttered no sound. This prosont opora w.u "Parsifal." Mmo. vtagner does not permit Its representation uny where but In Bayreuth. Tho llrbt uctof tno throe occupied two hours, and 1 onjoyod that In sp to of tho singing, .'trust that I know us well ns anybody that JLVJB.'ngis ono of the most entrancing nnd be witching and moving and eloquent of all tho venjcloi Invented by man for the conveying of fooling; bub-it seoms'to mo that a ohlof vlrtuo Jnsong is melody, nlr. tune, rhythm, or what you please to call it, nnd that when this feature is absent what remains is a picture with tho color loft out I was not ablo Mdotoct in tho iSfgl I'arts. of "Parsifal " nnvthlng that might wiinoonildenea be culled rhythm or tune or melody; ono person performed at a tlmo and a long tlmo. too-often in u noble nnd alwuys jnahlgh.prlcodvolco; but heonlypullod out Jong notes, then nomo short onos. thou nn mhor long ono then a. sharp, nuiok. peremp tory bark or two-and so on and so on: und i)?-n !'? T?8 $P0 ou MW. t,IRt t" Informa tion which he had conveywl had notcompensat- Sf.lr,V?dl8tur.uJrnc'' Not always, but pretty occasloiinlly and blend, tho voices: ollt no. , W knew bo wfli.liow.to mnko a Imndrod lntr- ments, rejoice in unison nnd pour out their souls in mingled nnd melodious tides of do llolous sound, deals only in harren solos when ho puts In tho vocal parts. It mav bo that ho was deep, and only added the singing to his operas for tho sako of tho contrast it would mako with tho music. Hinging! It iloossoem tho, wrong name to apply to.lt Strictly de scribed. It Is n practising of difficult aud un pleasant Intervals, mainly. An ignorant por son gets tired of listening to gymnastic Inter vals In tho long run, no mntter how plea nnt thoy mny bo. In Parsifal " thoro is nhor mlt namod nurnomnnz who stands on tho stngo In the one spot and practises by tho hour, while llrstononnd then another charac ter of tho east endures what ho can of It nnd retires to die. During, the ovonlng there was an Intermis sion of threo-qunrtcrs of nn hour nfter tho Ilrst act and one an hour long alter tho second. In both Instances tho theatre was totallv emptied. Teoplo who hnd previously engaged tables In the on. solo citing house wero a'de to put. In tholr tlmo very satisfactorily; tho other thousand wont hungry. Tho opera was concluded at 10 In tho pvoning or a little later. hen we reaehod home wo had been gone mnrotjmii secn hours. Seven hours ut5 a tlekotfs almost too much for tho monev. Wlnlo browsing about the front yard iimnng tho crowd between the nets I encountered twelvo or lift eon friends from different parts of America, and thoso or thm who wero most familiar with Wagner said that "Parsifal" t-ol-domploased at ilrst.butt hat afterone had heard It several times it was almost sure to hpcoimi thefuv.rlte. It soomod Impossible, but It whs true, for tho i-tatoment camo from people whoso word was not to bo doui.ted. And I gathered some further Information. On, the ground I found p irt of a Gorman must eul ningnxitio. nnd In It a letter written hy uhllethlrty-thren years ago. In which lie de fends the scorned nnd ubused Wanner auainst people like me, who found fault with tho com prehensive iihsenoo of what our kind regards ns singing. Lhlle says Wagner desplsnd '"jeno idnpiierude inurik." und thoreforo "iiiiij. trills, nnd schnorkel urn discarded bv him." I don t know what a schnorkel I. but now that I know it has been llt out of these operas I never have missed anything so much in mv Hits. And Uhlio further says .that Wngnoi's song Is true song; that It Is "simply empha sized intoned speech." Thiitoortiilnlydecrihes it In ' Parsifal " and some of thuotheropeniH; and. if I understand Uhllc's elaborate Ciormun, ho apolngires for the beautiful airs In " Tann luluser. Yury well; now that Wagner nnd f understand each other, perhaps wo shall get along better, and I shnll stop calling him agitner. on the American plan, and hero aftor unll him Voggner. as pjr German cus tom, for f fowl entirely friendly now. The min ute wn got roconuileil to a person, how willing wo nru to throw asldo llltle. needless punctilios nnd pronounce his name l Ight I Ot e.ourso I camo homo wondorlng whv people should como from nil tlui corners of Americu to hear these operas, when wo h.iv-i liitelr had a neason or two of them In N'liv lnrk with those same singers in tho several rarts. and po-slbly this same orchestio. I rpMilved to think that out nt all htizanls. Tuonlay. Yesterday they played tho only operatic favorite I have ever had an opera which has ahv.ivs driven mo mad with Ignor nnt delight whenever I hnvo hoanl It' Tiinn liBusur." I henrd it first when 1 was a youth. I heard P last In tho Inst Oermnn season In Now lork. I was busy yesterday, and I did not Intend to go. knowing I should have unother "Tuimhauser" opportunity In n few days: hut after ." o'clock I found myself free and walked out to tho opera house and urrlvod about tho beginning of tho second not. My opera ticket admitted mo to tho grounds In front. pattho policemen und tho chain, and I thought I would take n rest on u bench for an hour or two und wait for tho third net. In n moment orsotho first bugles blow, nnd the multitude begun to crumble np.iit and melt into tho theatre. I will explain tint this bugle cull Is one ot the pretty features here, lou see. the theatre is omptv. nnd hundreds of tho audlonce are a good way olT in the feed ing house; the Ilrst bugle call Is blown about it lunrternf an hour before tlmo for tho curtain to rise. This eompnny of buglors. in uniform, march out with military step and send out ovorthe landscape a few bars of the theme of the approaching act. piercing tho distances with tho gracious notes, then they murclito the other entrance nnd reneat. Presently rJiev do this over again. Yesterday only about two hundred penplo were still left In front of the house when tho second call was blown: In another half minute they would havo been In the house, but then a thing hnnpiincil which delayed them the ono solitary thing In this world which could bo rolled on with cer tainty to accomplish it I suppose an im perial princess appeared in tho balcony above them. They stopped dead in thulr tracks, nnd began to gaze. In a stupor of gratitude and satisfaction. Tho lady prohehtlysnwth.it she must dlsappoir or the doors would bo closed uponthosowondilppors. so she returned to her box Thisdaiighter-ln law of an Emperor was pretty: she had a kind face; she was without airs: she is known to bo full of common human sympathies. There aro many kinds of princes, hut this kind is tho most harmful of nil. for wherever thoy go they reconcile people to monarchy and bet t-nck tho clock tf progress. Tho valuable princes, the desirable princes, nru tho Czars and their sort Hy their mere dumb precnco In the world they cover with derision every argument that can be invented in favor of royalty by the most ingenious casuist In his time tho husband of tnis princess was valuable, tie led a degraded life, lie ended ft with his own hand In circum stations and surroundings of a hideous sort, and was burled like a god. in tho opera houso there is a long loft b.iok of tho audience, n kind of onun gallery, in which princes aro dlt-playcd. It is sacred t them. It Is tho holy of hollos. As soon as tho filling of the house is about complete, the standing multitude turn nnd fix their eyes upon the princely layout and gazo mutely and longingly and adoringly nnd regretfully liko stnnors looking Into heaven. Thoy-hocomo wrapt, unconscious, steeped In worship. Thorn Is no spectaclo anywhere that Is more pathetic than this. It Is worth oroslng many oceans to soo It is somehow not the samo gazo that pooplo rivet upon n Victor Hugo, or Niagara or the bones of tho mastodon, or tho guillotine of the revolution, or tho groat pyra mid, or distant Vesuvius smoking in tho sky. or any man long celebrated to you by his genius and achievements, (rr"tlilng long oelo hrated to you by the praises of books ami pic turesno, that gaze Is only tho gaze of Intense curiosity. Interest, wonder, engaged in drink ing delicious doop draughts that taste good all the way down and appense nnd satisfy the thlrt-t of u lifetime. .Intisfy It-that Is the Word. Hugo and the mastodon will still havo n degree of Interest thereafter whon encoun tered, but never nnvthlng approaching tho ecstasy of that first view. Tho Interest of u prince is different It mny be envy. It may bo worship, doubtless it Is u mlxturo of both nnd it does not satisfy its thirst with one view, or even noticeably diminish ft Perhaps tho essence of tho thing is the value which mon attach touTuluablo something which hasenmo by luck und not boen oarned. A dollar picked up in tho road is morn satisfaction to you than tho nlnoty and nine which you had to work for. und money won ntfnro or in stocks snugglos Into your heart In tho same way. A prince filcks up grandeur, powor. and a pormnnont loliday and gratis support by a pure accident, the nccldent of olrth, nnd ho stands always bo foro tho grieved oyo of poverty nnd obscurity a monumental representative of luck. And thon Mupremcst value of nil his is the only high fortune on the earth, .which is secure. The nrimrTicfcinl rnlllloimlM mnv lin. comn n beggar, (he illustrious statesman win mako a vital mistako and bo dropped and. forgotten : tho Illustrious tlennral can lose a de cisive battle und With It the consideration of men ; but once a prince always a prince, that Is to say, nn imitation god. und neither hard for tune nor an infamous character nor an addled brain nor tho speech of un ass can undolfy him Ilv common oonsont of nil the nations and all the nges, tho most valuable thing in this world Is tho homage of mon. whether do sorved or undeserved. It follows without doubt or question, then, that tho most debirablo po sition possible is that of a prince. And I think it also follows that tho so-culled usurpations with which history aro llttoro I uro the most excusable misdemeanors which men have committed. To usurpiiusurpation-that isull it amounts to, Isn't It? A prince is not to us what ho is to a Knro peaii, of course. Wn huvo not been taught to regard li In; as a god. and so ono good look at him Is likely to so nearly nppeaso our curios ity us to mnko him nn object of nn great Inter est noxt tlmo. Wo want a fresh ono. But it is not so with the Kuropoan. I urn quite sure of it Tho sntno old one wilt answer; ho novor stales, eighteen yenrs ago I was In London, und I called at nn Englishman's house on a bleak and foggy und dismal December after noon to visit hiswlfo nnd mnrrlod daughter, by appointment I waited holt an hour, and then they nrrlvod, frozen. They explained that they hnd been delayed by un unlooked-for circumstance.; while passing In tho neighbor hood nt Marlborough House they saw a crowd gat boring, and woro told that the Princo of Wales was about to drlvn nut so they stopped to get a sight of him. They had waited a half hour on the sidewalk, freezing with tho crowd, but wero dlsapnolntod ntlast-tho Princo had chanced his mind. X said, with a good deal of sum rise: ' Is It possible that you two havo lived in London all your lives and havo novor seen the Princo of WulosV" . Apparently It was tholr turn to bo surprised, for thoy oxclalmod: . "What, un Ideal why. wo havo soon him hundreds of times." They had seon him hundreds of times, yet they had waited halt an hour In the gloom and the bitter cold, in tho midst of it Jam of pa tients from the same asylum on tho ohance of Welng him again. It wain stupefying state jnviitjliUt otitis ob Iced "to, belitfVu'the'Kng. ..nV.-r. .,-., -!'..? llsh. even when they say a thing like that. I fumbled around for a remark, and got out this ono: " I can't understand It at nil. It I hod novor seon Oon. Orant. I doubt If I would do that oven, to goto sight of him." with a slight oni phnsls on tho last word. , Their blank fnces showed that they won dorod where tho parallel came in. Then thoy said blandly: "Of course not Ho Is only a Proslilont" It is doubtless a fact that n princo Is a per manent Interest, nn interest not subject to deterioration. Tho General who was novor defeated, the Ocnornl who never held n coun cil of war, tho only General whoever com manded a connected tattle front twelve hun dred miles long, the smith who welded together the broken parts of u great republic nnd reestablished It where It is quite likely to outlast all tne monarchies present anil to como, was really a person of no serious eon sequenco to thoso people. To them, with their training, my General was only a man ufterull, whllo their prince was clearly milch more than that, a being of a wholly unslmtlar construction nnd constitution, n being of no moro blood and kinship with men than are the seronii eternal lights of the llrmnment with the poor dull tallow candles of commerce that sputterund die und leave nothing behind but u pinch of ashes und a stink. Isiiwthu lastactof "Tnunhiluser." Isatin the gloom und the deep stlllnoss, waiting ono minute, two minutes, I do nnt know exactly how long-then the milt music of the hidden orchestra began to breathe Its lich. long sighs out from under the distant stage, and ny and by the drop curtain parted In tho middle and was ihiiwiir-lnwiy aside, disclosing a twiligbted wood and a wayside tdiilnc. with u white-rohed girl praying aiiduniau standing near. Pres ently that noiilo ohm UH of men's Voices was hftArd iipprouonliig. and from that moment until the closing of the cuitaln it was mulc. just muslu miihlu to make one drunk with pleasure, music to make one take unip and s-tiiir mid beg his way round the globe to hear It. To such ns are Intending to come hero In tho Wnsner season net year I wli-h to say, bring jour dinner pall with you. If you do. you will never cease to bo tbanitful. II you do not. you will find itu hard light to save yourself fiom faiuNhing m llavreutli. Bayreuth is merely a large village, and has no very largo hotels or eating houses. Too principal inns are the (Seidell Anchor and the Sun. At either d thoso places you can got nn excellent meal no. 1 mean you can go thoro nnd see other people get It. There is no charge lor this. Thu town Is littered w.th restuuiiints, but they uio miiiiII nnd bad. aud they uro oordrlven with custom. You niu-t secure a table hours beforehand, und often when you nirlvo you will Und bomo liodv occupying it. We hnvo had this expe rience. v havo had a dally scramble for llio; and when 1 tav we. I include shouts or people. I havo the impi'cr-slon that tho only people who do not hno to scramble are tho veterans the disciples Who have boon here before and know tho ropes. ItnlnU they urn vonbnutn week before tno Ilrst opera, and engage nil the tallies for the season. Jly tribo have tried all kinds of places uixii outside of tne town a mile or two und hae captured only ntbbltngs und odds and euus, never In uny instance a complete and s.itislying meal. Dlge-dildo.' No. the rover"!'. These odds and eniisure go imr to servo as souvonlrs of Bayrouth. ana In that regard their value Is not to bo ovei esti mated. Photographs Inrte. bric-a-bnic gtts lost, busts of Wagner get broken, hut once you absorb ulluyieiith restaurant meal It is your possession and your property until the time comes to embalm the rust of ou. borne of thoso pilgrims hero becomo in effect cab inets; caninets of souvenirs of Uuyrouth. It Is lieduvud among scientists that you could examine the crop of a dead ilayrcuth pilgrim anywhere in the earth and tell where he came Irom. But Hike this ballast. 1 tnlnk a " Her iiiltago" scrapo-up. at eignt in the evening, When all the famine-lueeuers have boen there und hud in their mementoes and gone, is the quietest thing you can luy on ourkeulsou except gravel. , Thursday. They koon two teams of 6lngors In stock for the chief rulos. and one of these Is composed of tho most renowned artists In tho world, with Maternu and Alvury in the lend. I suppose u double team is necessary; doubtless n single team would die of exhaustion In a week, tor ull the plays last from lour in tno afternoon till ton at night .Neatly nil tho labor ralls-mtontlio halt dozen head singers, and ap parently thoy aro required to furnish ull the noise thoy can for tho money. If they feel a bolt, whispery. mystorlous feeling, thoy are requited to open out nnd let the public know it Operas urn given only on Sundays. .Mon days, Wednesdays, and Thursday-, with throe days of ostensible rest per week, and two teams to do the four operas; but the ostensible rest is iievotod largely to rehearsing, it is said that the off days aro devoted to rehearsing Irom some tlmo lit the morning till ten at night. Aro tiiero two oichestras also? It Is quite likely, since thcro are a hundred und ten names In the orchestra list. Yesterday the opcta was "Tristan nnd Isolde." 1 hno seon all sorts of audiences at theatres, operas, concerts, loctures. sermons, funerals hut nono which wus twin to tho Wagner audience of llayreutu for fixed nnd reverential attention, nbsolute stlllnoss, und potnlled retention to tho end of tin act of the attlti.de nssumednt the beginning ot It. You detect no movement In the solid massot heads and shoulders, you scum to sit with the dead in the gloom of u tomb. You know that they ure being stirred to their proloundcsl depths: that theroaro times when thoy want to rise and wave hun kerchiels and shout their nppro lintlon, und times when tears aro running down their faces and it would be a relief lo free their pent emotions In sobs orseicains; yet you hear not one utterance till the ouitain swings together nnd the closing strains liavo slowly faded out aud died; then the dead risu with one impulso and shako the building with tholr upplause. I-.veryse.it is lull In tho Ilrst act. there is not u vacant ono intuelust If u man would be conspicuous, let him como hero and rctiio from tho house In the midst of an uct. It would muko him celebrated. This audience reminds mo of nothing I have ever seon und of nothing I huvo read about except tho city in thu Arabian tale whore all tho Inhabitants hnvo been turned to brass nnd tho traveller finds them utter centuries muto, motionless, and still retaining tho atti tudes which thoy last know in lllo. Jloretho iicner audience dress as thoy please, and sit In tho dark und worship In silence. At thu Metropolitan in New York thoy sit In n glare, they wear llioir showiest harness, they hum alls, thoy squeak fans, thoy titter, and they gabble till the ttmu. In some or tlio boxes tho couveisatlou and laughter uro so loud us to dmdu the attention of the boiuu with tho stage. Ju large measure tlio Metropolitan Is a showcaso tor rich fashionables -who are not trained 111 Wagnerian music and have no rev erence lorit, nut who llku to promote urt nnd show their clothes. Can that bo an agreeable ntmophere to por sonsln whom this muslu produces a sort of di vine ecstasy, and to whom Its creator is a very deity, his stage u temple, the works of his brain and hands consecratod things, und the partaking of thorn with eye und ear u sacred solemnity r Manifestly, no. Then perhaps tho tompornry expatriation, tho tedious travers ing of seas and continents, tho pilgrimage to Bayreuth, stands explained. Thobu devotees would worship in an utmospheroot devotion. It is only hero that thoy can find it without Heck or blemish or any worldly pollution. In this remote village there uro no sights to sue. there Is no newspaper to Intrude the worries nt thu distnnt world, there is nothing golngon, it is always Hundny, Thu pilgrim wends to ins temple out ot town, sits out his moving borvlcc, returns to his bed with his heart ami his soul nnd his body exhausted by long hours of tremendous emo tion, and ho Is in no tit condition to do any thing hut Un torpid und slowly vathor back life and strength fortlio next service. This operu of "Tristan find Isolde" lust night broke tlio honrts of nil witnesses who wore of the faith, und I know of somo und have hoard of many who could not sleep after it, but oried thu night uway. 1 feel strongly out ot placo here. Homotlmes I feel like tho ono sane por son In a community of tho mud; sometimes I feel like tlio ono blind man where all others sou; the one groping savagu In the college of tho learned, mid always, during service. I feel like a heretic lu heaven. But by no means dot ever ovorlook or mini fy tho fact that this is tmeof tho most extraor dinary experiences of my life. I have never soon anything like this before. I have never been anything so great nnd lino and real us this devotion. Friday. Yesterday's' opera was "Pnnlful" again. Tho others went, and they show marked advance in appreciation; but I wont hunting for rollcs und reminders of the Mur gravliia VWIliolmlna. shu of the Imperishable "Memoirs." I am properly grateful to her for her (unconscious) sat fro upon monarchy and nobility, and theroforo nothing which her hand touched, or lior eye looked upon, is indlf torent to mo. I am her pilgrim; tho rost ot this multltudo horn aro Wugnor's. Tuesday, 1 havo soon, my last two oporas, my season Is ended, nnd wo cross ovor Into Bohomln this afternoon. I was supposing that my musical regeneration was accomplished undporfected, because I enjoyed both of those operas, singing nnd nil, and. moreover, ono of thom was "Parsifal:" but tho exports have dlsonchuntod me. They say: "Hinging! That wasn't singing; that was tho walling and screeching of thlrd-rnto ob scurities, palmed off on us in tho Interest of economy." Well. I ought to havo recognized tho sign the old, snro sign that hus uevor failed me In matters of art. henever I enjoy unythlng In art. It means that It is mighty poor. The pri vate knowledge of this fact has saved me from going to pieces with enthusiasm In front of many und many a cliromo. HowovAr, my base Instinct does bring inn profit eomotfjiirs: I was the only man out of :j.i!iK) who got Ms mousy JiMtk ou tOoo twg bjici as. Mwt Twfix, THE SOUTH SEAS. LIFE UBDER THE EQDATOR LETTERS FROM A LEISUHELV TRAVELLER. Cop) ruht. lS'.it, bv R. R. McCliire.) tutl'ila: the AMnniCAN iiinnor Oroi.u, Bnmonn Islnnds. October. 1801. Tho Island of Tutulla Is tho least visited and tho most often soen of the Snmoan group. Awhile ngo the liners between Sun Pranclseo nnd the colonies passed by tho east end, nnd several nights In the month a ho nil re burned for their guldanco on the Islet of Annuu. The courso is now changed; Annuu Is dark throughout tho your, and tho steamer passes, nnd tho glnbo trnltor has an opportunity to soo. West Cape, with its rocky Isluts. nnd tho FAnOFAUO. SAMOA VIEW TROU THE AMERICAN- CONCESSION. village of Loone, with Its brown roofs, green broad fruit trees, and black, volcanic beach. To seo and losongntn. It is but n glimpse nnd uway; u tossing cutter receives the mall nnd a fow pussengors; tho screw, which has scarco rested, turns ngaln; Samoa sinks In tho blue ocean, nnd thogloho trotter returns to lose his money in tho smoking room or dozo ovor n novel on deck. On tho morning of Tuesday. March 2. tho Union Company's steamship Walnut drew near the placo of call: sightod West Cnpo and Lcono: nnd, instead of bearing Immediately to sea. held on ulong thosouthorn coast, steamed awhile by black broken cliffs, by cocoanut grovos. by frequont villages, by Hats of lava diversified with spouting blowholes, tho gey sers of tho beach; and nt last, where the high lands bogln to descend abruptly to tho sea. turnod to tho north, entered between two wooded mountains, and was swallowed in the bowels ot tho island. Unit nn hour later slip issued forth nirnin, and trimmed her course for Tonga und New Zealand. Her errand was done: she had set on shore In tho deep harbor of Pangopango n quantity of stores and bag gage, a reliable Chinese cook, n land surveyor, tho American (Jonsul-General. known among nntlvos as tho Anorican Judge, nnd an elderly gentlemnn of notable tenuity of person called (his own name being unpronounceable by Polynesians) tho Writer of Tales 'J'usitata. This is the snmo person who is now trying, about ll o'clock of a sunny morning, and di verted by the chirruping of many birds, to btring together his unimportant information for tho reader's bonellt. The harbor of Pangopango (writton In Sn moan spelling Pngopagol cuts nearly through tho narrow, btoep. and crooked Isle. A singlo ridge divides It from tlio other slioro nnd tho bay of Pungnsn. A road, which is n good road for Samoa, but degenerates at last Into a ladder of roots and rocks, carries you through tho midst of forests to tho top; twenty feet in front the oppoMto declivity plunges sheer. It seems you might roll a boulder on the roof of tho unseen village nt your feet, und through clouds of foliage tho sun shines upon blue water, rock, and leaping spray. Tho basin, somo half mllo in width, lies so oncased with mountains that the breozo Is frequently shut out, A draught enters by tho son mouth, squalls burst in at times by tho gul lies of tho mountain, but tho nnln river ottho Trade scorns that crater-llko doproBslon and streams overhead. Day and night tho scroll ot trade wind cloud is unrolled across tho sky, now In huge continents, now In a thin drift of di'brls, slugular hhnpes of things protracted und deformed, beasts and trees, nnd heads and toiHosof old marble, hurrlod tit high speed from hill to hill, and changing, ralntiiig. and vanishing ns thoy fly. Meinwhllethe surface of the harbor lies below unrufilod, now of a heavenly blue, now greon llkn u forest pool, bright In tho shallow", dark in tho midst with tho reflect jit sides of woody mountains. At times a dicker of silver twinkles nnd disap pears on the sombre ground, and you might think n wind was troubling tho dark water. But the llickurlng Is that of llslies. Bight in tho wind's oyo n mountain stands conspicuous, duslgnod liko im old fort, with naked cliffy si Jes und u greon head. Its bulk divides thu dawn : you would sav that two suns woro rising, ono to the south, ono to tho north of that pale mountain; and aftor tho night is be ginning, and colors nnd shapes at tho sea lovol nroalroady confounded in tho graynossof tho dusk, Ploa (which is tho mountain's name) re tains for some tlmo a tlngo of rose. It Is strange to ply bolow In tho dark harbor under mldnlghtstiH, to hnvo forgot tho day, to look up suddenly In tho oast und find that phantom glow still llngoring. Tho so-called hurricane thntmado Samoa famous nnd bestrowod tho coasts of Opolu with tho bodies ot white sail ors, although It spared Pangopango, raged with vlolunco about the summit nl Pina;tho woods in tho space of one night wero stripped of all tholr foliage, and tho mountain stood In the morning as though struck with a sudden autumn. Pioals, be.sldns, the dlsponsor of con tinual rains that drench und mako greon tho harbor. Squalls oongrogato upon Its hood, tako now shapes, nnd snom to linger thoro. Thence thoy descend suddonly In the form ot a wlilto veil; tho surface of tho bay is seon to foam undortlin rain; tho foaming approaches swiftly ub tho flight of birds. Yet a moment und tho walls rattle and tho roof resoundo un dor tho squall. A momont or two more and the sun smllos again on dripping forests. Those aro tho works of Ploa, und Its holght is loss than 1.500 feet. Ono night whloh was tho night of n Ratur day. I was wakonod a little boforn 12 by tho ship rats which Infest tho slioro, Invado tho houses, nnd had in ado a nursery of tho room In which I tried to sleep. I strolled to tho water's odgo; tho rlpplo lapped at my foot; from tho fur shore, which is opposite the har bor mouth, n sullon plungoot surf was audi ble. Nowhere in tho Isles of tho Pacific not oven In this sheltered crook, shall a man oscape entirely out ot hearing of tho trepida tion of the deep. Tho moon rodo close at tho zenith, "excellently bright," but continually (iverwhrlmed by the vii. continental "carry" of tho Trade. Flashing from dusk to stiver, nnd thrusting forth strango horns nnd pro tnontorios, tho clouds sped with an impetuous n motion that tho oarwonderod thoy should pass In sllonoo. Tholr lovol wus not so high as seemed: the Trade, although so strong in cur ront. In a shallow stream. Even as I gazod n cloud grounded on tho summit ot Ploa: Itseem ed to hang nnd gather thoro, nnd darkon as it hung: nnd I was source fled to shelter ore tho rain struck and roared about tho houso. As tho squall declined I was awaroof a sound, familiar, but unexpected nt that place nnd tline-thntof a chinch bell ringing slowly nt a distance. I had not thought thoro was such nn Instrument on Tutulla, but I made no doubt it was somo holy day not observed by Protectants, nnd that tlio boll was ringing In tho dark from the far sldo of tlio harbor, whouco tho Cathollo missionary looks across upon his Mormon rivals from Bait Lake. I had a sharp niontnl picture ot t'io church nil lighted up.lhn prlost In his robes, and a scanty flock gathered fur the nocturuut celobrntlon. All night tho squalls succeeded. With the do cllneof cadi tho bell began to nound again from tho same distance, tilt I perceived nt last It was no more than an eavesdrop falling close by my ear on a tin pin. The morning dawned; mist was on the hills, n fresh accum ulation ot rain Imminont on Piou, nnd tho wholo harbor gray nnd serious like a Scottish loch. As I uto and wroto in my diary, the beat of tho woodon drum tho pa.'c-from tho noxt vlllago told mo tho Protostanto were gather ing to worship, nnd I smiled lit my last night's Illusion. "A bell on Tutullal what an Ideal" I wus thinking, when a bell began indeed. Tor somo whllo It rang from tho far shore, nnd boats wero soon to pass the harbor in tho showers: then it ceased, tho congregation was within, the mass begun, and I was left to ro lled upon tho war of creods. The wooden drum collocts tho Protestants; an iron drum in a bolfry calls tho Catholics. To the Catho lics tho wooden drum is nn offence, something barbaric, idolutrouv perhaps unclean; they will not use It tliomselves, thoy wish to hnvo others prevented: and tho politics of Samoa woro not long slnco convulsed on this quostlon of tho pits. How various must bo tho roes sago of tho boll in such a placo: to tho natlvos.a loud outlandish thing, of a money valuo scarco to bo computed: In tho ears of tho priests, calling up momories of French nnd Flemish cities; In thoso ot my Mormon neigh bors, sounding with a voice of Utah: in mlno. t liking of tho gray metropolis of tho North, of vanished laces and silent tongues. Ant thoro wero yet ethers within hearing. High upon tho wooded mountains dwoll certain melan choly maroons, Inborors (wo do not say slaves) from different westorly und northorly Islands. Thev say theyaro very well used: but it Booms they do not like good usage, or not that kind. Tho woods of Opolu, our chief island, aro flllod with runaways; much of my land was cleared by their hands; a round dozen woro arrostod on my property, and often whon I tako my walks in tho bush a pair of bright eyes will bo watching mo from tho thicket Somotlmos their rudo hnmlets are found in romote places of the forest, sometimes tholr plantations, aud occasional disappearances and tho occa sional dlscovory ot hones keep nllve In tho minds of tlio native a profound terror of those black-skinned und cannibal allon refugees. And on Opolu, round tho groat establishments of tho Gorman Arm', tlio thing Is natural: hero, on Tutulla, tho presenco of escap?d labor Is miraculous. They wero live in number, who had grown weary of good usage: under cloud of night they fushlonod u rudo raft out of timber on tho beach, nnd put to sen without food or compass. It must hnvo blown from tho leowurd, for the cour'o of tholr random voyago lay duo cast, and the raft was cast on slioro near by the mouth of Pango pango harbor. At tho tlmo of tholr landing tlio rofugoos hud n lender, n man from tho Gilberts, of groat stature und cnurago; ns long as ho lived thoy maintained a flerco frout. and raided the inhabltod low lands; but n soon ns ho was shot down, in the uctof carrying off tho maid ot a village, tho survivors shrank Into tho forest Tlioie, in tho rains, in tho rudo thlckots, thoy nwalt ago and donth. Stress ot hungor occasionally goads thorn from tholr woods to steal bananas; In nil else, slnco tho doathof tho Gilbert Islander, thoy are qulto harroloss; but tho foar of thorn Is not the least abated. Long ago, say tho nntlvos, the houses woro continuous round the harbor. Thoy are now shrunk Into 11 vo hamlets: nt night it is only lioro and there that n light twinkles. In tho morning only bore nnd thoro that tho smoko of cooking drifts and dispones In tho forest. A path girdles tho whole ehoro, a rudo enough causeway, which falls It you elt upon its mar gin, but raakos passago easy. The noar hill climbs abruptly, making u profllo of loaves upon the sky. Tho pith, as It follows on by promontory and recess, now plunges you in breathless heat now brings you forth in a. broad draught of nlr. From tho hottest corner of gonio patch ot caHo you may loo.k a little : V v. . y v.' f ' way up tho hill nnd scornlmi whirling In tho breeze: from tlio b ittoin of somo cnw.wlmro the path Is overhung wlt'i rock and foliage, you may look but a little forth and soothe bushes toss und the lianas stream on the next cane. Afnlntt-tlrof human life animates the solitude. Far out on the many-tinted shoals women wade nnd llsh. an i you may hoar them singing at their occupation: or one strolls shtirewnrd-sliinds waiting, modelled In her dripping kilt, und ns you pass along the e.iusewav balls you witn n salutation mil u high-pitched laugh. Pel luiis a e.inoe goes by, or two or three brand now wluilelioats spread thlr Ihil-Hhlle sails in a race. Or perhaps you i-niMitnter on tho I'Ullsm.'ity n procession healing In id. baskets of tarn, conked pig triced ov the foi t to n polu and carried on the should t of tw.j men. ns tho spies carried the era pes or Palestine. Or yet again you may Lo iiciieniiitiled lu youi walk ii bronze young gentle. nen. equipped with ii bow and arro.v to etinxo llsh. Tim sport Is pleasing and Immune: tho little hunters put tor on the margin nf the beach, stand nnd gaze on outlying roeks. or wado In the bright shallows; the innocuous arrow Is at times dis charged and recovered, and the llsh scorn to withdraw. For In this method f ehnso tho situation Is ruveiscd, und the banter has the. exe.clsc. the quarry the spoil, Pangopango Is not popular with gentlemen ot the Ameri can navy. Tney say it is hot locrish, nnd dull, 'i ho days welgu upon them In this moiin tulu uiicli iiago; thoy ptpler even Apia, nnd are said to languish for the inys of poker. I may be monise. perhaps ciTenilnate. but I could walk ii liletlme on these shores, und If I must condescend to uny pastime, let mo rather purniic llsh and rocovw bi.io Hess arrows. The turn of the land from Swimming Point toOosorvntory Point Is to contain tlio Ameri can establishment. The rnlli runs under trees und rocks, hard by the water; you may undress and bathe In the shade of tlio same tree and play with tho lianas us vou ImthoMhe coves snom pmuto us n chamber, thu heat of tho afternoon Is forent. the nil' still. An Islo. (lout Island, where the Mars and btriiies were Ilrst displayed, stands detached fromObserva tcuy Point, coi.iiiiiiiidstlio h.irborup and down, has a look to seaward, and enjoys the brcezo all day. You clnmiicr totind the foot of the low cliff over tigalnst thu Island, und at onco tho tiiKte strikes you full, the sound ot the sea I edouhlos. tho air smell'- suddenly salt, nnd you sue beloru you the heads and the open ocean. A boach curves toward tin. nearer headland, boidered by groves of palm: four scattered homes, one nl them in ruins, mark theatre of a decaying hamlet, and two streams meet tho sea, Ineoiislderablo runnels, easy to bo overleaped such us may reach maturity In so narrow aniitslo. The pi ico Is very dcsulnto nnd very noisy with the wind and sea. The .ludguund I one dav wore joined upon this beach by a boy. un old ally and satellite. Maun his name, u slendoi, shrewd, g -ntleni.inlr creuturo. whoso pleasant e)es nnd manners bud ungngud us heretofore. Presently, nt tho far end of the bench, beyond tho houses, we sat down, aud with the common liibtinet of all ages and rices of tneu. elderly whites and eight-) oar-old Snmoan boy began to dig among thousand. Mnun designed n ship in section. It was our ship, lie told us, and pres ently began to pooplo It wtthoitrdistingiifshod rnrty. Here wastho Judge by the helm, hero mo jioHsurer oi jauu, tiicio loo erimroi Tales. "And where is Mau.v himself.'" we asked. The llgureof Maua was added at tho masthead, spying for some promised land. J was struck with a profound sense of tho unity of man and nnn's romance nnd play: how often In tho pa't I had takon part in similar business, nnd nn how many beaches of thu world a similar scene was then enacting. Fato laughed at my conclusions even ns I thought for Manx- begun presently to model in roller: thohuii 'orm was hi sub ject, und as ho -went on with It ho expounded his work to tlio .fudge nnt! the Wi Iter of Tales. There ure some tab's nnt to bo written, and the doings of Maua and hlse.imlnonts fall among the number. 1 wondeied. and I was tin- more foolish. But a night or two before I had seon for tho Ilrst tlmo nn Indecent Hanioiiu dance. The house was full of spectators, among the rest children of all ages, who soon began to join in the singing and boat tlmo. It was sin gular to look around on all these shaven heads of children wagging aud little hinds clapping tho tattoo; to hear theshijil young laughter rise ilUfavorcilly.ntid to remAmber the jest they laughed, nt was the exposure of their sisters In Hitoh scenes Mastor Mauu hnt grownup. and such experience m ide the ululd secuie of sym pathy from Ids elders. We lingered in Pangopango with u purposo: wo were there indeed to mako history, which has always neon the work id time. Tho ail nil r nble harbor, one of the few really good road steads In the whole extent of the South Seas, was long slnco eedol to the Hates; It re mained to ncquiro upoT Its shores tho neces sary lund for an establishment; and in this, which tlio Judge had eomo to settle, an unlooked-for dllllcultv ares . Swimming Point Is a knoll, projecting intodeepish water, clothed In thick bush. nnd. after a common fashion, long tho burial place of chieftains. These grave- worn the stumbling block In the begin ning and remained -s till tho end. And even after, even when the bargain was made, tho land sold, the money counted, pnunselu wore still dividod and eloquence still (lowed on the question of thonncestrul relics. It was dusk when wo euniu to the vlllago nf Fangntonga to conclude this affair. Lights wero in all the houses, tho evening hymn was singing, the dinner ready but not yet FAOATXU BAT, SAMOA. eaton. An emissary was still scouring to rniso money; Chill dollars and half dollurs, English shillings, American twenty-cent pieces, the maddening currency of thu islands. An hour later wo weru summoned to the prose ncn of the chiefs, und went, beiring tho price In a bug. Abamoiin house Is oval in plan, ami con sists nf a high-pitched roof ol thatch sus tained by an elegant frame of broad fruit aud supported by manv external pillars and mo triple roof post In the midst. The spaces be tween the external pillars mav be closed with inilo Venetian blinds, the slats of matting. The floor Is of smo dhoil gravel, tint external boundary is demarked witn n coaming of oin slderahlc stones.. Tlio hllnih. In tlio house to which wo wore now led Mere mostly down and it was close. The lire had not been lit. ami tho single petroleum lamp searcn onablod us to see the faces of tlio lour chiefs and lite two girls who squatted there upon the mats, pass ing (o and fro li.iniiti'i lear ciiriiicltcs" Four chiefs, mid there should have boon flvo Messengers wero despatched lor so it was pre tended) to summon lint lift h; lie did not como. but you may bo sure wo wero supplied Instead With civil excuses. Wonro hero in the homo hinds of oeiisos. When one of vour boys gels news of tho illness of a parent, and asks leave for a day. wring him hy tlio hand you will seo him no more; this Is the elaborate Samoan way of giving warning; ho is now going to he liaiipy, aud lin on tno floor nf a housu for months. VWiiitinertheohler might say. or his colleagues sav for him, the ciutioiiH foreigner couldiiiiikel.iitniindeducrsoi-lli.it the chief was unwilling to appear, Tlio siispleious for eigner was free to siipinso that he did not ap prove of the sale, orihut tlio whole company woro playing fast and loose and secretly man ufacturing a flaw in tlio bargain. Tho money wasolaborntolycoiintodout by W'enley Forster, thu bout builder, un I tlio four chiefs planned in tho meanwhile Into their favorite diversion of, public speaking Solemnly thcynrraye.ltliolr p'nnsos and repeated tholr arguments: solemnly they eneonrnged each other with "loin!" HierS,imn.iu "he.irl" The solemnity was indeed hughablo if you remem ber tholr audience conslstwd of two girls and our Interpreter. Thu ground of the dispute was noteworthy, The lumen were to lioijug up from Swimming Po'nl before the transfer: but suppose they should now accept tlio purchase money, wore they not constructively soiling tho bones of tholr anci-storsf This line sciuplo provallcd; the bargain was signed, but the money was banded over to a trustee until the bones should bo removed. Thun kn)n was made and puhllo spoaking resumed in n moro Playful key; w woro enofi praised and Intro, duced by tho.Chuuuoey Depuw of Fangutonaa. each drained, Ills bowl bravely. Nor wastho bravery, needless: for tht kftvn- wus made in the unolfnt. nlinost obsolete manner, nn offen llVSPWUrt, IXoixMX Lows Bimrraww, THE SMUGGLING OF' OPIUM. QVLElt WATS OF SKSDIXO TUB DBCO urutt TUB XlOnDER. The nuatnms la no JProAtmbla that XMjr t'hincex Are Klskcd-Hlnpls MsthetU that Are Overlooked Homettmea, WAiniNOToy, Doc 5. As long as th profit!' of smugglers aro big their business will flourish, notwithstanding such nn occasional eapturo ns thnt ot tho exporter of illicit opium In Now York the other day. Tho customs ds trctlve service, controlled from Washington, cannot possibly keep under guard tho entir frontiers und coasts ot so vast a country a th United States. It is only now and then tturt thoy can strlko a blow nt tho trnfflo by oxorols ing not mo rely vigilance, but devices ot tho Ut most ingenuity. About two months ngo throo revonujt ta spectors In Puget Sound drestod themaelrat os ilshormon nnd started out aftor horrinjr with nn equipment of nets. Their purpost H was assisted unoxpoctodly by n tremendous ' storm that capsized tholr boat and cast them on tho shoro of San Junn Island. Thoy wera I taken cure of by the resident Usher folk and m they lived with them for somo time, partaking m of tholr occupations and amusements. Inol H dentally they discovered that tho hospitabU 1 inhabitants woro ongngod in smuggling opium m nnri liquor from Crfnado. tho whiskey being K sold to tho workmen in tho great limo facto ries there. As a rosult eleven persons have been arrested. " Not long ngo a novel nnd very lnbsrosttnr method of smuggling opium was discovered by offlceis of tho rovonuo inarlno in Puget Sound, Ijirgo sticks ot timber wero sawn In two lengthwlso nnd hollowed out, the halves being afterward fastened together with , wooden pins, so that no ono would havo sup posed thnt tho big log woro filled with con trabund material. Tho scheme- wasfonqdoiit by tnocli.meo of coming across somo ol the empty logs floating about on tho water. Two or three good-sized logs will hold manythou 'sands of dollars' worth of opium. The flromen nnd stokers on board ot the trnns.Pacifta steamships do a great doal of smuggling, becnuso thoy have so many con venient hiding places. Thoy htdo opium in ., tho coal, and hollow Iron masts frequently ufford places of concealment for cane ot op'um. as do also tho pumps of vessels.- In port thero uro various ways ot getting tho opium ubhoro. A favorlto method is to drop tho cans overboard, with sinkers attached to them so ns to koep them from drlftlng-for. nnd floats of cork or wood to mark thom. Then small boats pick t hem up. Homo of the most remarkable incidents which havo como undor tho observation of tno revenue mnrino huvo to do with tho suing nllng of Chlnoso into tho United States. Cer tain Instances enmo to the knowledge of tho Government not very long ngo whorothecrews of vessels actually killed and threw overboard ninny unfortunate Chlnoso passengers when in danger of capture in order f nostroy all ov idenco against tliomselves. Borne most ex traordinary expedients are rosorted to. On ono occasion several Clilnnmen woro hidden under thu boilers of a steamship bound from Vancouver. They literally roasted, and their 2 cries of agony attracted tho attention ot the Ij Inspectors at Port Towmend. Thoy were M dragged out, and somo of thom died from their burns. Another time n Chinaman climbed into Jj tho space iu a puddle box, whore he had Just m room to hold on, secreting himself before tho m vessel started from Vancouver. Lvory rovelu- m tionof the wheel doluged him with icywnter. It and he was taken out more dead than alivo. yg ProlltabloFmuggiingfromthoBritlshposses- 1 ' slons is of wool. Small vessels and boats fetch m j it over from New Brunswick, and the suta ffi J method of bringing It hero is practised on tho m. ; northwest coast. Mnceii tariff of $.'iOahcad jK j was placed on horses and S10 on cattle a con- if j sulci al lu biislues has been done In driving III them acrn-s the lllo iirando from Mexico by mj j lording tiio shallow stream nt night Anew S j way for smuggling tob-ieuo has grown np 8 i since tlio Mclnnluy tarllf law imposed a duty f J of j-'J a Pound on wrapper tobacco und 25 cents K j u pound on filler tobacco. The surreptitious K importers conceal wrapper matortal in bales 9? ; ol tiller, and get it through cheap. A great i quantity prop irod in that way was captured JK leeently at Tampa. Tho duty on olgars la it : Sl.oO a pound, with 2.1 per cent additional, so jfr r that it-pays well to get them In froo. Jft Most of the opium smuggled Into this coun- j J try comes from Canada. Tlio buslnossof got- i tlngit across the border omploys enormous I j capital and tho industry of hundreds of men H who lmiciicqulicd exnortnoss by experience. t it Is vastly profitable Tho Importation of , Si 100.000 pounds duty free represents a clear H , gain of Sl.-JOO.OdO. tho tariff bolng $12 a ; pound. The stuff cm bo convonlontly ship- lit lied to any place along tho lino and oonveyed Iff over tlio border whenever It Is desirod. Where H there is n river men in boats ferry it over by m , night It is shipped across in every tm- H nginublo disguise. Thoro is nlmsst no limit B to the ingenious resourcos of those engaged in B the trnfllc. On one occasion two men were or- H rested and twenty cans lound in their posses- H slon were confiscated. The cans wero stored B for safe kneplng at Ogdensburg. N. Y and. in jf order to got rid of evidence ugufnst the parties jf concerned, their confederates used bribery fls and obtained access to the captured goods, re- 3 1 placing the opium In tho cans with wooden B i blocks made to fit thom. Fortunately tho 8 a bchcmewiisilisfovorcdimmcdlatolyutterward. i II S'ime months ugo un opium smuggler was f fj nriostcd who confessed that he had boon on- f I gaged fur years In carrying it across the fron- a !i tier bytliesatchelfulata time, Ho travelled 1' i to und fro by train, concealing his handbag J ( from tho customs omenta when possible. M Otherwise, he let It Ho oponlv on a seat other 13 I than that which ho himself occupied. If a i 1 suspicion ns to Its contents had ever occurred . 9 1 to the inspectors, ho would simply havo de- I 4 j nlcd that ho owned it or know anything about i i it In this simplo manner ho had imported fl ll more thun $100,000 worth on his own aooount. I I Most of tho opium brought from Canada Is i X i manufactured at Victoria, whero 125,000 Jl j pounds of tho crudo article Is annually trans- JJ t formed Into about 70.000 pounds of the pre- , a i pared product It coraos. chiefly from Turkey. 3 a being Inferior In quality to thnt importod from f I China, and arrives in thoehapoof balls. After jf j thu petals of tho opium popples huve fallen $ ? tho seed pods rapidly dovelop. Incidentally producing a gummy juice. This. juice is I - gatherud by cutting open the pods at tho : proper tlmo nnd scraping it off with knives i when It has exuded, it is collected on loaves aud dried in lumps. Flnnllyit is made into 9 balls of a coTtnin wolght, and tho balls aro J ' covered with poppy petals agglutinated witn 9 ii paste of opium wasto and other subetanoes. m Alter bolng dried in the sun the balls aro 9 packed In chests for nxpnrt At Victoria tho SI balls are removed from their coverings W mid the material is boiled to a thin paste with D water. Tho paste, with some cold watorudded. Jl is permitted to stand fr fifteen hours, nfter Jf - which it Is Altered through bamboo tlbre paper. Ju ' The resulting brown liquid Is concentrated by -ffi boiling down until it icsembles molasses in JH ' consistency. After beingkeptforn few months K r. it is ready for smoking, und is put upinoans f! lor nun ket, Jl The extent to which the smoking of opium JB piev.ills In Up. L'nile.l States Is not gonerallf II realized. Statistical Information is to tho of- y E feet that nearly ono million person In. this Jl country smoke the drug, while at least 85,(100 Jt are opium eaters, consuming It In other forms. II Of the 70.000 pounds id thu promuod nrtleia Ii produced at Meloria ulnuu nearly all is sold J und use I in thu United States, and to tho . K Canadian product must bo uddod grontiuan m titles of the stun which uro Imported, free of duty or otherwise, from Chlon. Opium has ' boon raised In, Mrglnla. Tennessee, nnd Call- m foruia, hut it did not puy, chiefly because labor m cost too much und the domestic article could I notcoinputu with the foreign ut market prloos. R ' Killed (lie Bfar ulth a Penknife. PAr.iy.r.scunn, W. Va., Pec. 2. A big yearling bear was killed on last Friday on Llltle Moun- i tain by John Hall. 17 yours old, and Mont Black. IL' years of ugo. Tho boyb wore eodn j hunting in the mountain when tho dogs treed the bear, Thoy had nil old single-barreled I shotgun, loaded with bird shot, und nn axe. They fired tho load of shot Into tho bear and ' brought tho animal down. Then the dogs at- i tanked It, hut they woro beaten off, Ono of tho bnynrnn In und struck at the bear with tho axe. hut did not hit it. Young Hall then drew hl j! pocketkulfe and went nt the benr. He was ' pretty bully scratched und severely bitten Jn I tho lingers, but rtuok to the brute until tie oul 4H L,o!n.oar.iMIbtb.abo bw,'