Newspaper Page Text
5v3?ii!r'"-'i)ij3ijs WmSwsWSSSS THE SOT. SUNDAY, AUGUST 2TM898. I fflTB COJMj FLYING, s,nd Gaudy Hues Unblending, Har lequin's Dress Parade Moves lo Its Summer Ending. BEHOLD IN BLACK AND WHITE How Iridescent Hues Shall Merge in Tones Less Bright in Smoky Autumn Blues. q.. Inland rrtttr Fanhloo. la Ir..l. the HHlr- Fenlala. lleaotv od Brain. Are I ...! to he 'ompIlblr, taltktVoBMiic HOM of Hhlrt Wol.t. Skirt, and Ulrdle Are Irreeonellahle A WIS Slother Had II,, Fnnr Forlm.ot. aahlers-WoieB la the Wall ! Treasury, sad BW Two WeUM HnMawred Pleasantly la j-,w fork C'ltj-Tralla or the Trma fServant-fB.BB B. Anthoay Apollo a. Haggle. -The Fraaelneo Hoan'l E.ehaaze, and Woam'i Taetee, 'Work, sad FmperleaeeB la Many rrnti.h. This Is what dressmokers cull the Intormo ditto season. Tho mode market is fluctuating and uncertain. Changes and rumors of ehango art in thu air. but summer strips still hold su preme at the great centres of social activity. The flamboyant and florid style of dress, for which this season will go down in theohroni let of dress ns the supreme climax, is going out in a blaze of glory. Unless all signs fall, the autumn will see the last of the .Mutism color combinations, the inar tistic extrevagauras In design, whioh have dominatod the harlequin mode. The proTalllng fancy for black and white Is a natural reaction of the color mania, and as we rest our bedazzled eyes upon Its simple and becoming charms we see the error of our pris matic wars, and are prone to ronounce the vanity of piecing and patching our garb with d 1 ver hues forever. Parisian women hare reTived the popularity of accordion plaits, and the cun ningly pressed and graceful folds have trav elled triumphantly from plastron to bodioe. from bodioe down to skirt and up to parasol. The latest fantasy in veils l fine accordion plaited tulle run with rows of colored ribbon. Most beautiful are the newsllk gauzes import ad for these gowns, finer than foulard, firmer than ehtffon. and the newest, quaintest con ceit Is. of course, that the gauze shall be black, with oream-white trimming. They are plaited throughout skirt, sleeves, and bodice, the lat ter closed with invisible fastenings. For dressy occasions the lining is cut low and has no sleeves, and in white or light tints may be of a contrasting color. A pretty model, presenting few difficulties in copying, even to the amateur, is of the black silk gauze, with three row of white insertion, let into the material before plaiting, a belt of white, end a plaited yoke, also of white lace. The khieen Anne sleeves, full at the elbow, have a fall of lace set in at the shoulder seam. This model Is also pretty made up in black, with black insertions lined with green satin, and a green yoke under the lace one. The York bodice Is one of the new end pretty fancies founded on an old mode, whioh will be found effective in the bright soft drosses where with every wise woman will provide herself against the drear and dull autumnal days. The dress is of a soft smoko blue cr5pon and baa a tabbed bertha and basque of black Velvet. The sleeves nre covored with many frill, bound narrowly on the odge with black, and the skirt is out in broad shallow scallop, edged with black vel vet, tied at interval with bows. The yoke and tho broad band at the foot nre of white cloth, braided in u pattern with gold. The gown, like nil pretty gowns, is designed for a woman tall ouough to dure to cut off about six Inches from her height, in cvonlngguwns tho niodo in a conglomeration of all the styles that , evergracod ballroom beauties sluco the days '; of the early (ireoks ami 1;.. man. Voucannot get outol the fashion if you try. providing your bodice be cut low enough on tho shoulder and the skirt full enough at th foot. Hecause of this groat diversity of (rills and furbelows, that ... , , " . . ' - f'nwn W'nleli Ht tins illatttetlojl Is nf ncccltr he one h. h Is ino-t simply fashioned. eu"l futrii. worn luoentlv hv i.sdy llrooke, Is re Ph-Iiks! here, that it way serve a-, u ini ksu w,i.,li a rftoat .v.iiot i't ft f (iVlug tortus I may be crested hr the manipulation of the aforesaid frills and by daring and elose har monies In color. The gown of the famous Ingllsh beauty was of white satin, thlcklv studded with silver paillettes, the skirt beauti fully sloped out. ana m-l touching the ground st theiback. The sleeves and drapery across (he bust were of imle pink tulle. The silk of the l .win r. laid In io se plaits over the bust, was fitted smoothly In tit tho bottom, wherea silver snako enclrclud and emphasized tho slender- ness nf the wnlst. Not r.anr women are pretty enough to wear well this sort of gown. Not mnny I -etty ones, alas! are wise enough to see how well Its severity frames their charms. For the rest of us. we have only to llouneo It and cross it with inserting and ornamsnts as profusely as we desire. For dressy dinner gowns come most gor geously striped silks and satins In autumnal colors, of which the favorite trimming Is still the black silk muslin ruches and the lace ruffles. Much a gown, with a stripe of tho red soen In the enrdlnalls (lower, has muslin ruchlngs on the skirt. The yoke is made of cardinal satin puffs sat into black insertions, 1 T?3v7" -Y, '- JaVPjsW .bbbW f- ' v-Jnv : -'' 5JbV " flSsVlSja. ' SBbsLl iLW "CiT -.gw and is finished with nlattings of the muslin edged with lace. This yoke, cut after the late't models, is so deep on tho shoulder that the plnltlngs fall over the arm. and the sleeve, plaited down flat at tho top. flows out broadly at the elbow and is finished In a puff of lace and muslin. ... . . i An odd whim of the moment is forthe spiral flouncing of skirts, which are flounced, as well, in festoons, and Vandykes, and all man ner of odd arrangements. This spiral, which may be a flounce or a ruche, begins with a bow on one side, and In passing around the skirt Is gradually lowered until It passes the point where It starts much lower down, and ends with a bow on the other side. Itucnes of black silk, muslin, either edged with lace or plain, are much employed in this way. and form the decoration of the primrose silk shown in the cut. J he waist of the dress is formed almost entirely of the lace, and has a fold scarf of block satin for a bolt But presently all the world will be on the wing and travelling gowns will occupy our consideration, for the old Idea that any gown will do well enough upon a journey no lunger holds good. Sorgo, tweed, and cheviots are the materials most approved, as they are im pervious to rain, and a color too light to show dust and too dark to show soil is. after the ever-durable navy blue, the favorite choice. A prettr new model of the more dressy form of travelling gown Is shown In a neutral-tinted serge, trimmed well above the half-way line with folds of the some pined with golden brown braid having a thread of gold. The collar and basque are edged noatly with this braid and show o plastron of plaited silk set into a braided yoke of the matoriiil. A belt of metal, narrow, and clasped with a buckle of odd workmanship, is thosmort llnlsh at the wnlst. A stylo of travel! ng gown In vented by o clever English tollor. which la In reality a cloak to bo worn over as house toilet for short journeys where luggage is troublesome, has a skirt which buttons down at tho side and Is trimmed Ron d I the bottom with trod. The swarthy rut tailor coot Is also edged with braid and open" over a waistcoat closed to the throat with buttons. Tho style Is one which will ,. Iy commond itself to the American traveller, because, owing to the great jjGhWN here we do le-s country visiting than our cousins of the snug little Island, where every place In the kingdom Is less than a day's jour noy from every othor ploeo. bVMMHiasa is sr.w toiik. A Very 'oBrortnlle nd Inexpensive Hro.on of It Ttre Hen.lhle Women Mi.de. "Two business women. " said tho feminine social observer. - who. owing to the stringency of tho limes, and possibly to other causes, lacked the wherewithal to put in the soason at summer. cso.1. or even to spend their vaca tion in the country, deoided philosophically that .Now York was good enough for them. " They have oilloes in a pleasant part or the city, at the top of a cool, old-fashioned build- or. St In lie afternoon, tuo u let u ah solute privacy ol I be WjMB J Wpiis Wttrrf blow through the old hmiee in e manner that makes the Inhabitants of the sky parlors wis h that all owners of light purses were so com fortably situated. . . . "They do their own cooking when there is no one but themselves In the building, and. by the exercise of a lltlleoare and Ingenuity, they manage to get up an excellent substitute tor regular housekeeping. Above all their flnonees are in a most healthy state, lor three months their combined living expenses have averaged but SU.iKia month, which has beon expondea on the monthly average, thus: "Hresd. HM cents. crackers. An.. .10: milk. l"J. condensed milk. 12: butter. $1.10: lord. 01 cheese. 15: Hour. 7; corn meal. .1: hominy. .. coffee. 03: tea. 20: sugar. ,i7 icggs. MT: beef. 1 4''- ham, 40: bacon. 12: mntton, IS: lamb. Qi veal. 41: chicken. MS: tripe. 5; kidneys. Di fish. :ir: crab". :i: green coin. 14; tomatoes. j:i; potatoes. 17; beans. 0: onions,.!: cabbage. :t: beets. U: eynm. 2: berries. 20: ieaches. (.. cantnlouis. 11; gropes. Ill pickles. Ac. 10. Ire. $l.2o: ollifor luefand lights). $1. JO. "Kvory article was ol the beet quality and meal- were served promptly and In good order. "And DOW, as the season draws ton rloe. these two women lift their voices In i.rai.se of Now York as a summer resort. One lias hero many of the advantages of the average resort without its drawbacks. The climate Is de lightful -when ron are In the right placo and the rityisvcry healthy; but If you must he sick vmi have the benellt of the finest hospital servlcoln the world. There are always libra ries und museums open, and New ork has more WMrme nnd intetosting corners than ono could visit in a year. "You may have what you want to oat sorvort at nnv hour, cooked In nny Inngungo. You may dress us you like, spend ns much or ns little money as you choose, come and go as suits vou. Here ono is in easy reach of famous resorts mid all sorts of scenery. Finally, look out at your front window and you will see more men In one dav than could be round ot a summer resort during nn entire season. WOMBS J.V THK V. . XBBABVnr. Tkelr F.elent Work as flerks, Aeeonnt. ante, nnil Counterfeit JBeleelors. A little over thirty years ogo not one woman was employed in the United States Troasurv. To-day there aro 0.01)0 women on tho roll. Then tion. Spinner was Treasurer. He had been a banker, and ns such had discovered that his doughtor could trim lank notes bet ter than the clerks could, lie accordingly sug gested to Oov. Chats, thon t-ocretory of the Treasury, that a woman be allowed to try her hand at the Government's shears. He selected Miss. lennie Douglsss. who was both brawnr and bright, and gave her a pair of shears thnt would cut the length of a sheet with a blow. Ono dny's work settled it. and the mole clerks employed in clipping bonk notes gave place to women. With this success to encournge him Gen. Spinner, in October. 1862. secured the nomination of seven women as moner counters. Two of these are still em ployed In the Treasury. The women detectors of burnt and counterfeit money are claimed to be the most expert in the world. That is the unnuestloned reputation of Mrs. W. A. Leon ard and Mrs. E. 0. Drown. Aocordlng to phrenologists, form, color, and distance are strongly developed In Mrs. Leonard. The record shows that this un rivalled counterfeit detector handled in three yenrs $2,000,000,000. In one day no less than $12,000,000 passod through hor hands. From $200,000 to $400,000 Is the daily nveroge. Although Mrs. Leonard has beon married a second time during her Treasury service, sho was not allowed to resign, because she was considered "invaluable. ' In IH7") Mrs. iirown began counting frac tional currency, but when the identification ol burnt money became a seisiroto department she was mode Its chief. After money Ims been idontlllod bya detector and paid by the t.-v-ernment tho detector must bear any loss which has been sustain-; through her mis take, Mrs. Browns Infallibility JVM.d, from the fact that, dur ng nAfJl thlrtf years of service, she lias had to refund only cents. Her wort is the most Interesting In tho redemption division. All mutilated bank notes nrosent to tho Treasury accompanied by a voucher, drown up by a notary, certifying bow the money was injured. Notes burned to a crisp, notes that have been partly 'lice'''11. J;' animals, money tnnt has been gnawed into bits by mice, rotted by damp, or turned into pulp by water, all pass through Mrs. fowns hands. If there is anything lelt to identify she is sure to succeed. . Hy means of a piece of glass the size or a bonk note, marked into twenty-four ' equaroe. the face ol the bill is determined. If sixteen of these squares can bo covered by the muti lated bill, the whole value Is paid: If less than sixteen and more tliun twelve, half the value. If less tnan twelve, it Is rejected entirely. Twenty-two dollars found In tho nest of a mouse were recently sent to the Treasury in a. condition thst defied recognition by the nakoil ere. Mrs. iirown went to work with a micro scope, and patiently sorted out tho w hole amount. One hundred and eighty dollars. which went through the Nanderillt five at Kowport. came to Mrs. Iirown as a charred mass of paper, which she. however. Identified. When an exprosscnr is burned, the safe is sont unopened to tho Treasury Department. There it is openod by w.men experts, who empty the contents, often only a mass of ashes ond sift them through a sieve. 1 ho charred bits of money ore thon picked out and submit tod to a microscopic examination. -Not lung ago twenty-two tiny diamonds were recovered by silting tho ashes a third time before burn ing them. The vaults are often flllod with the stench of money recovered from dead bodies In pestilent districts, as during the providence of yellow fever In the Smith, such money is fumigated, and no diseases havo ever boen communicated to employees. - (iold and silver are also counted by women, ond women manipulate tin) machine wlilcn has taken the place of shearB for trimming notos. Tho machine which stamps tho bank notes Is also In charge of women. In the Treasurer's ortlce is tho last of the original seven woman employees-Miss t Eliza beth htoner. She keeps the payroll of the navy. Her work necessitates the roducing of every variety of foreign money to our values. Fur thirty yeors Miss stoner has occupied al most the same desk room, and many a time has sho heard "heelers" ousted wilh small ceremony when thsy come to urge the Ir-asur-er to discharge her to make room for a voter. SUB IS TUB UOUO OF nBK 8VX. Tke Tramp Servant who Fills from Place lo Place and In tonnlant Only lo lleer. It was in May that tho significant expres sion. " No objection to the country." first foil liko balm on the ears of suburban housekeep ers. Now. however, tho mild joys of oouniry life nre beginning to poll. Tho suburban housekeepers are left dosolute. The servants are coming to town. While there ore plenty of girls who. like tho swallows, mako thosotwo annual llittings. but aro otherwise " sleody." there Is another class whoso migratory powers are positively hobo esquo. This is the tramp servant, a crea ture so restless that Domino's ghost would have uoemed sluggish beside her. To tho tramp servant life is one long round of "places:" the moro tho bettor. Three weoks out of four you will find hor at some time dur ing tho week at tho Intelligence office, for she rarely stays at ono place moro than three or four days. Sometimos her visit of Inspection to hor new place does not plcaso her. and she departs within tho hour to join her cronies nlso of the tramp species. In the back room of some saloon. There is a good deal of fraternal feeling botween different tramp servants, und sho Is always sure of a welcome, -. Hullo. Annie" Is tho greetiug. fahuru an 1 thought ye'd took u place. ..... "Humph! You'd ought to seen It! An whoi do you tlrnk sho wanted me to do ? llringupcoal from the cellar! She did thotl "''You don't say so! The Ideal Borneo" those people Is awful. liut you dblu t do it. I II bet. " Well, did 1 1 It's not me that'll stand that sort o' tiling. I don't think 1 I go back to work this week, anv way. 1 worked four days last week, on' I'm tiled d It- "That's right. Annie! Sliiuoan" If y..u don t look out fur yurseir no one else aiu t iigoin to. Let the mistress try it over tho hot stovo awhile an' sei liow sho likoa I . nd so they talk over their beer, and a week later they will be there again with a new ex perience to relate. ,il LI. The greatest sufferers from ho whims of tho trump servant aio the cheap restau rants Tho girls thoro come and go almost as frequently as the customers I hey never sla y long enough to make it Worth while to flu. out their names. SO the. ore culled Mary 'with a beautiful Impartiality which does not Offend, They are chronic coroplainelb. and don t think nut thing of leaving at a moment s notice. even Hit to lb tho mid-t of the preparations for dinner. Urlnk l their great curse. 1 hoy work jus: enough to keep Ilium eligible to a 'spree." ih.il is all. Man 51 the women aio queer character, and most ol them have trav elled all over ihe country. Apropos of tin-servant question is a report made by the IHltish consul in Irazil. l-y this It appears that not ono por cent ol tho maw or female servants will sleep in their maters bouse. They Insist on leaving at the latest by 7 o'clock in tho iei,i.ig. and will not return before fur Mia the nuiralBl. , r this reason some houses I live a lane . f glass In one of the windows taken .oil. through whnh he baker and milkman pass their goods on their early u ornlng r oin.ls without t,ubllng a member of the lomlly to get up and open 169 '$001. Jt 1 said lo be qu le common for a good cook to n'st.. utlie lam.ly dining not later than., '.clock so that she in..y be able to put lac kitvliun lu older und g0 homo sail. U these or other demnnde are not granted the servant leave without any notice, there being apparently no law of master and servant in Btlti). The wages average t2 to 3 a month with food, and the servants as a rulo purloin enough every night to provide a supper at home. These servants are negroes or mulat toes. and aro nearly all freed slaves. tABHlOKS Iff lotrruBK. Qnalat, nisspt Modes neeeaatac to Heap.. linl Tnlnli Plnln WoBien. The world belongs to pretty women and the fulness thereof 1 theirs, let the wise ones argue as they will of intellectual superiority and spiritual beauty. To the woman with the fairies' girt all else shall be added, particular ly in the domain of dress. It Is for the protty woman that modes tiro made and exquisite fabrics wrought. Bho neods the consideration of the designer much less than plainer women, but she rocelves It all the more In de plorably unjust ratio. Particularly this sea son does the plain womnn feel bitterness in her soul at being deprived, through no fault of her own, of her birthright. For evrry fashion now domnnds the sweet nnd gantlo type ol beauty known to the Amelias nnd Chorlllas of a bygono day. before higher education and smartness and swagger came In. The style of coiffure provolont only a llomola or one of Miss Mu loch's low-voiced women could wonr with becomingnoss. for tho very latest thing In bnlrdrcssing, coplo.l from the old-time mode, has smooth and glossy tresses combed trimly down on either side a line white parting, to be twisted In a soft roil ot the back. This style of coilTure demands a delicate, youthful face, a low. brood forehead, and an exquisitely moulded head. Another style, much affected by young girls, is a modification of the 1H20 style, with ringlets railing down either side the tace from a parting, tho hair knotted high In a puff In tho centre. The expression to be worn with this coilTure should be one ol sweet modesty and gentlo unoplnionutedncss. . V Still smarter, and becoming to the full fledged belle or youthful matron. Is thatcoir fure in which the hair Is tossed bad; rroin the rorchead to fall In soft, careless curls at ho side or in a single curl in the middle ol the forehead. Some women of the dark. Spanish type, with faultlessly regular features, dare attempt this style of coiffure with no cm s and ' the smooth hair combed back lightly to the twist. Handsome women nre distinguished. I Intellectual women striking, with this sort or framing. The woman who Isn t so sure or i herself nnd her beauty will Part her now dishonored bong a little at the side. per. I hops, and leave the soft fringe to fall over her forehead, and the petito stvle of wo man, who has an irregular sort of beauty. waves her hair Into a Jang lo ol curls that fall back apparently In spite of her. to flutter oxer her brow, while the sweet-faced woman, with thesmall and pretty bead and not agree ti leal 1 of time to think of herself or her beauty any way. unconsciously copies the Mrs. ( loveland coif fure, the soft, wavy hair eombod carelessly over back, to be twisted in a knot at tho centie of the head. Fori roaiusATB iiavghtbrs Wh..e Wise and Wealthy Mother Trnlned Them In ITseful Arts and Hnndlernfls. There wos once a wlso mother. This does not mean that the stecles Is now extinct, though some cynical people, whoso top hair is somewhat thin, siipi ort the idea. The wise mother was the wife of a prosperous father, who was a successful Liverpool merchant. She was also a descendant of one of tho oldest nnd proudost fnrailie In England. Associated with this father and this mother In the business of family life wero four daugh ters. There wasn't tho least prospect that nnv ono of the four would over be called upon to earn her livelihood, but It was right here, nevertheless, that the mother's wisdom os- serted Itself. Tho eldest daughter received a musical education which In Itself would have brought hern good income. In addition to this sue served an apprenticeship too confectioner ond pastry cook. Sho paid a heavy premium for it. but tho things she learned to make would hove warmed the heart ol the coldest critic to praise. The second daughter was Initiated Into the mysteries of clear starching, so that her lo-es and kerchiefs and other dainty fabrics woro the envy of oil her friends. This wasn't enough to satisfy the wise mother, however, and this daughter, in her turn, "served hor tlnio" at a large outilttcr's. whoso business was almost entiroly with India and the colonies. In that business success depended not so much upon the workmanship of the goods as upon tho manner in which they were packed. This wise woman's daughter learned how to pack everything. Irom a tailor-uiode gown to eue tlan glassware. Incidentally It may be mentioned that. In packing for long transit, gloves wero put Into bottles and sealed up Willi wax. like so much cat-up. This is because otherwise tho thread would become rotten, causing the gloves to rip. Thus were two daughters armed against fata ami fortune by the lurethoiight of their wlso mother. Hut there remained two more to be rareiiror.aii.loneoltlie.se was delicate and threatened with tho loss ol her eyesight. She was encouraged to study vocal music. Ihis was to strengthen her lungs, and a she could practise all day long if she choso In a darkened room. It did not tax bei eyes The fourth daughter, much against the will ol the wise mother was as bent on studying to be a governess as tho famous frog who felt a settled Inclination toward wooing. Ihe mother wiiutrd her daughters to be proficient in direc tions where their talents would shine with a peculiar lustre because of the scarcity of coiu petnho lights. But liner daughter .was de termined to be a govei ness she should be one whose right to supremacy none would dlsnuto, so a special tutor was engaged to coiirli the young woman in unlveisity studies. Muso and drawing were added, not as accoinpl'sli inents. but as means to an end. Of course, all d those four daughters might have found their llDCS lying always m pleasant places, .mil in that case tho extreme wisdom of their ninterii.il training would not havo been so palpable liut II liappeuud that llio governess, after (he lapse ol lomovoars, found It nerossaiy toearnl.ei own living. Sheet once secured 0 position et a salary double the usual amount paid. This was followed by leaching tho congregated children of several (amities who sought for superior services, until Dually she had one ol tho Uncut schools in thai pari of the . ounlrv. Thanks to Ihe wisdom ol that mother every oneof hor daughters could have inado a gopd. living hod the necessity arisen. 1 ccpt In he one case It did not arise. Hut the training in..' had received was by no means lost, rveu in the fortunate places that iellto their I't. iiis Kiima Krjelader. The present Herman linperor. then a smsll boy. attended the wedriini: of the I'lince ond Princes ol Wales, ilo wos under Ihe charge or his two uncles, the I'like..! I dinburgh and ihe hiii. i of i hi. naught As may bo expected, young William lldgoted sadly, anil consequent ly recolvedan occasional nurnlng tap on tho shoulder, liut how he did revenge hlinselll His umles were In Highland dress, and the fu ture Kmperor slyly knelt down and bit Into their bare calves w ith great earnestness. v.-siu r Fafkrsiavk'a riiBtrrbood. The death of Sarah Howmon at Kphratah, Pa., almost ends the exletenoe of a pei'ullarBls terhood. it was organized at F.phratoh lfiO rears ago on a communal theory, and was for a Ivug liuiu a Uouiih)ug institution. Die Uls ter gradually strayed into the outer world. however. Some mnrrled. some died, until Sis ter Howmnn. In her old age. found herself the oldost member, with only two companions. Stnme Weavvn'e Pet Ar.r.lnn.. An F.ngllsh magazine the othor day asked women to tell what they consider their pet aversion. Hero are some of the answers re ceived: " The endless dlsoussion of the Irish question." " A formsl lunch psrty." " My pet aversion has no namo or being, yet I see her plainly with my spirit's eye. There sho sits, always neat and unruffled, ever wearing that serone smllo which makes me long to shako her. If only to see how she would look then. Always conscientious, always kind, hor worst fnult is that she has no fault.' My pet aversion is tho fidgety, tidying woman. Cows, of course! If nly I know what that long and steady staro means! Hut I don t. and mystery commands awe." '-,,it t allore by Women. In fruit-raising countries one-third of the ranches are elthor owned or managed by wo men. In Fresno county, tho great raisin grow ing district of California, only ono woman has failed In business. In onta Clara county one thlnl of the $r...0OO,(( worth of taxable prop erty Is owned by women. Nine-tenths of the employees of canning factories are women. Apollo ) Fine, lint Waea't Haastlee, Harriet Hosrner tells a story of an old woman who visited her studio. Miss Hosmer's statue of Apollo win on a pedestal In a corner. The old lady. Mrs. Haggles br name, paused before It. Finally she exclaimed; "So that's Apoller. is it?" She was assured that it wa. "Supposed to be thu harnsomest man In the world, you say?" " Wal." sold the visitor, turning away. " I've seen Apoller an' I've seen Haggles, an' I say. give me Haggles!" The Americas Woman nn Her Travels. Forhops American women whose consciences aro not ensy.on the mutter may fall to recog nize themselves In this unaccustomed word of praise from nn English journal: "An Ameri can can bo spotted in a moment, whethor in a railway carriage or on board a steumer. As a rule she eschews the sailor hut when en voyage. Instead, she wears a trim smart 'boat' shape of waterproof felt, with water proof ribbons, and hustling with wines stuck In by a cunning band. Her gauze veil Is always fresh and Immaculate, her gloves easy fitting, but well cut and newly bought. Hor skirt nov.T draggles. No buttons are off her boots. Would that Englishwomen would fol low our American cousins' example in tills.' The I. air t'Bnr'e MorannAtte Wife. Trincoss Y'ourlcvskola.morganntle wlfeof the late Czar, has been living In 1'nris of lato. She is still a handsome woman. On account ot some trouble with her eyes she is obliged to wear blue glosses. Her wonderful auburn liair she cut ofTot the time of the Czar's doath and placed It In his eoflln. It line grown out again now. and she wears It fastened at the toe of her head. Tho Princes Is wealthy, but dresses simplv. mnkitic her only display in the splendor of her carnages and tho liveries of her servants. Her Douse is full of portraits and busts of the tzar. She has three children. Prince Oeorge and l'rincesses Olga and Catha rine, l'rlnro Oeorge has boen educated on rules lsid down by his father. He speaks Eng lish, (ierman. French, liolian. und Hussion equally Well, and Is skilful iu fencing, riding, and shooting. In-in, ... Methndn or the Oreat Wortk. M. Worth has a staff of fifty employees of various kind-, besides all the personnel of the dressmaking deportment. The latter includes from 200 to 700 girls, according to tho season. The busy times are from the middle ol Fob- i ruary to.Iuly. and from the midrtlo of August , to December. During this tune the weekly I average of work turned out 1200 gowns nnd I l.'.'i cloaks. Thoro are a good many lilting 1 rooms, each called according to the color in i which it is furnished. Generally a week Is re i quired to make a dress, but if necessary it can bo done In twenty-four hours, and. on one occasion, a gown was made Tor the Empress Kugi'nio in three hours and a half, tjuoen Victoria has never patronized Woitli. ZXTBBBS T7A a INt'OBUA TJOS. Women ore credited with transferring their affections Irom poodles to the Italian dove. Tho Quoen of Helgium is said to bo a harpist of unusual ability. Tho School Hoard of St. Taul. Minn . has fixed the scale of wages for the teachers of that city regardless of sex. Cora V Stewart, a Vassarglr, has taken ono of the three special fellowships offered by tho Chicago University. The decree of LI. D. ha heen conforred on Miss Helen Chafer, I'reM.lent of Wellesley College, by Obuilln College, of which she Is a graduate. It is said that the wife f a New York mil lionaire hns for the last three years been travelling all over Lurope trying to match a pearl. Tho Queen of Oreece is the 1'resident of a sisterhood devoted to the reformation of crim inals The yuocn herself personally visits the prisoners Queen Victoria is superstitious al out pre cious stones. She Invariably wears a ohryso phrase In one form or unother. and thinks it brings her good luck. The only ornament worn by the widowed Archduchess Stephanie ol Austria! o locket containing on one side the portrait of her lit tle daughter und on th other that of her mother, the Queen of Belgium. In Austrian society it Is tho custom to take a partner for only one round of a dnnce. lly this means ladies and gentlemen ehnnge part ners live or six times in a single dunce. Miss Lillian Morrltt. an Lnglinh phenome non, bos the power of retaining in her mem ory hundreds ol complex figures, nnd of mul tiplying, deducting, and adding at tho same time any of the cross figures. Sirs. MagTiussen of Iceland ono of tho dele gates to :lio Suffrage Congress, said In her paper before tho members of that body that the women of Iceland did not claim the suf frage, but that it was being thrust upon them by tho men. Mrs. (irnfton Hoss. an F.nglish woman, has invented a tool for killing obnoxious weeds in gardens. It i In the form of :i hollow pinr-or. through which poison I conveyed to the very heart of tho root of n stubborn weed, causing It to sin ivoi up in a very short time. Miss Laura M. Uldon of Virginia City has been admitted to practice before tho courts of Nevada by the Supreme Court she possod a very creditable examination and was highly complimented by the Judge who hns never udinittud u woman before to the Nevada bar. Miss Hoitha Lammo of Springlleld, 0 hns Hie honor to he tho Host woman In the world to receive the degree of electrical ongineer. she has led her class all through the course in the Ohio State University, Slid has now ac cepted a position with tho Westinghouso l'.luctrio Company at Pittsburgh. The two daughter of the banker. I". T. Her gouilnl ol Now York, havo surrendered their private fortunes In order to i ay the debts of their father's eBtale. They will be left penni less and will support themselves p music, teaching and stenographic work. Uasldes ibis they devote their personal ottontion totno payment of the claims of the people, iiinnv ( whom aro Italians and unable to spouk Lugllsh. Copt. Magnus Andersen claims that but for his wife the Viking would not hove beon built, and he would not have sailed it uoross tho At louilc. Whenever ho was discouraged and ready to abandon his plan. Iiorfnltbaoaentbu lusm still undaunted, encouraged him o take up the plan again. Half a dozen tlmus he gave it up. as many times sho Inspired him to begin again. As a companion storr to the anecdotes of women who have posed as soldiers of prow ess. Is a tale of a liorman youth who. In order o escape being a sohlior nt all. put on petti coats and hired himself out as a cook Wien the youth was traced to his employer s house his pursuers learned that lie was quite a jewel among servants. He spent but little tlmo over Ills toilet, the looking-glass had no attractions lor him. and he was. moreover, a good oook. At Mofllll College. Montreal, which is co educatlotitt!. out of eleven students graduat ing with honors six nre women, and out of live medallists throe aio women. A college statistician, in going over the llgures. Ilnds that. In proportion to their numbers. Ihe women have done three times as well as tho men. Ktlll.it must be inmouibered that these llgures are based upon overages. Only excep tional girls are now to be found In the colleges, whib nil sorts and eondltl .ns of boys for all muuuur of reason are scut tutu college. Ou iPTB block nead. whose father .end Mm to eolfrg because the boy Is too stupid to do anything eh . or ono wild son sent because the father doesn't know what to do with him. pull down a class average and make an unfair showing In comparisons. Woman's suffrage In Wyoming has a record of which Its friends may be proud. In the ten years from 1KHO to 1800 the ratio of crime to population fell off more than half, though It is sold to be Increasing In other parts or the country. Wyoming's neighbor. Oregon, has three and one-fourth times as mnny offender. In all tho prisons of Wyoming not one woman was ever imprisoned (or any offence whatever. The Wyoming House of Hepresentatives Itseir has declared that, under woman's suffrage, the jails of the State are almost empty. A eortaln Dr. Ilobert Flasher, n professional "beouliflor" of Vienna, has been revealing tho secrets of the trade. He declares that many mothers put their daughters through a wholo course or beautlflcatlon before mar riage. The Doctor divides his treatment Into the negative and tho positive. Hy means of tho first method he removes blemishes that exist, nnd by the latter he Improves the good point nature hns already given tho subject. He has oven gone so far a to Invent a teor pump." designed to aid In the timely display o( emotion. A young English girl afflicted with an unde sirable amount of adipose tlsue hns suc ceeded In ridding herself of a large amount of It without Injuring her health by following the regime given below. Sho began by getting up at 'I o'clock every morning and taking a three mile walk before breakfast without consider ing the weot her. At 0 o'clock she had a large cup of coffee, with very little sugar, and a slice of dry bread. Then she ocoupled herself as she liked until 2 o'clock, when more bread and some vegetoblos composed her meal. At 4:.'t0 she was off for another long walk, fol lowed by a cup of tea and a fow dry biscuits. Ninety days of this regimen reduced her Weight from 185 to 145 pound SaiBT-WAlST ASIi OIRDLB, Where tke Dowa-sweeplne; Oklrt aad IV MtehlBE Blouse Fall at Oats. A few veors ago when the "bang" was uni versal two pretty girls who became Intimate always sealed tho bond of true confldenoo by telling each i ther how they " did " their front hair. To-day, under the reign of tho ehlrt waist and girdle, tho burning question I "How do you keep your belt down?" The seemingly- simple costume of bloiio, skirt, nnd belt Is really as difficult to realize In perfection asmostseomingly simple things. The hour that fashion decreed that the "tails" of the blouse wero to dlsoppenr Inside the dross skirt and a black ribbon belt was to clasp the joining between shirt and skirt woman's lot received another cross. Watch the trim scores of girls that trip along tho streets of the great shopping district; ad mire them nstheyadvance toward you. hotted. glovod. and shod as only the daughters of Now York are: delight In tho well-nourlshod. rounded, womanly llgures In the simple silk ' or linen shirt waist, the well hung dork skirt, and the broad black belt; then venture to turn your head and gaze alter any one of theso dl ; vinlties as she glides past and away from you. ! '1 here Is a lotal hiatus between the gather of ' the back broiidths of that well-hung skirt and I the broad black ribbon belt .Mademoiselle bos passed round her dainty waist. The skirt and the belt it is sewed to havo slipped from under I the outer, sepnrato ribbon belt, and the wearer knows It and is far moro unhappy about It than you can possibly bo. .lust as the girls thought tho blazer bad solved their diflleullie aiql drawn a veil over that miserable divorce between belt and skirt which is the bnno of , their axletence, along came Fashion again nnd I cut off the tails of the blazer almost to the I shoulder blades and sternly ordained the I-.ton jacket. Helts that join behind and unfurl funny little bunches of ruflles over the offending gap. or a silk how- with ends is applied to the small of ' tho back, anything rather than admit that women ore not built for the blouse, the skirt. : nnd the i.elt. as at present constructed and I combined. There is something really sad In ; the I aid treachery of the most desperate ex- ' i.edieiits. as when a nattr girl In an Immicu- i late duck suit seats her-elf at a restaurant table lor lunch: the weight ol her body dregs I her skirts, the separate belt remains stolid y unmoved, and a largo brass safety pin. falsely so called, is disclosed, with which she has hoped to secure all her petticoats, as It were. to her very vertebral. Tho fact is the so-cnllod waist lino Is as imaginary as the equator. The natural girdle lino Is ns displayed by Sarah liernhnrdt and the dancers of the much-dls ussed dense du ventre that is. passing across Ihe hollow o( the back, over tho hips, and under the abaci men. To say that our fair and lovolr New t ork ladies shall so gird themselves when they take their walks abroad is to leave anatomical tor sumptuary law. but tho lashion of the shirt, the skirt, nnd tho belt is a theory, ond the lamentable disunion among them is a condi tion which stares us in tho back. ax ixrinsa womax'S kxcuaxob Is that of San Fraaeleco. ,vllh It Good Cookery and Mervlce. and flowers. The managers ol tho Woman's Exchange In San Francisco are demonstrating the value o( such an organization in ethor and moro prac tical lines than as a depot lor emboiderod doy lies nnd painted monu cord. They havo rent ed a large and pleasant room on oneof tho principal business streets, and serve appetiz ing lunches at reasonable rates to the public. It is by no means a ladles' lunch roomthough the unmistakable One touch of woman's taste mokes the place most attractive and homelike. The window is filled with a wealth ot flowers. not gathered carelessly, but grouped with a happy harmony of color. These flowers are for sale as woll as for decoration. Each of the Immaculate little tables insldo has its bouquet of flowers. Thoro are rose days, when every flower belongs to tho Wueon's family. There ure pink days, and violet days, und cool green and white days, when -ho flower of diver- kinds follow the some color scheme, and the place is pretty enough for a wedding. The photographers of the city frequently per petuate tho picturesque scene in photograph which And ready sale, and the patrons llnd the place most charming for entertaining their friends. , , , i if course, without a good cook In the kitchen nil these Trills and furbelows would amount to little In the minds ot men. but the cooking dono by a woman Is exceedingly good. J he wholo place Is run br women, the only man being a Chinaman, who scours tins nnd keeps the Moor clean In the kitchen. This kitchen Is always on exhibition from one of the windows of the room set apart tor the use of ladies up stairs, and tho rloanllness of the place Is not the leust attractive feature by any means. The waiting upon guests Is all done by wo men, who ure not allowed to roceive any fee. If some Insistent and grateful eustomor re fuses to depart without giving a fee. the waitrose turns It over to the manngemeut. Tho superintendent, a most cultured and cor dial lady, presides over the wholo, and as for noiso and confusion U is unknown . In a small department near the entrance tho fancy arti cle aro received and sold that form tho chief stock in trado of the Usual Woman's Exchange. li:M!MSK KBAVTY AXI) BIIAIHS. Mine. Adam, the Olfled Frroeh Woman. Wko Proved Tkrm Not Incomuatlble. It is hard to tollljust why beauty and brain aro supposed to bo incapable of occupying the saiiie earthly tenement, especially if that tene ment be of tho feminine gender. Hut it i so. Mine. Adam, the tamous writer nnd hostess, found it out years ago. She wos Mine. Juliette LaMessino then. "Jl years of age, and very beautiful- She wrote a book. A study o( love. women, and marriage it was. and Mme. Julietto called it " Antil'roudlionlan Ideas." Dr. I.amher. tho proud futherol tho young writer, gave her a thousand francs with which to have tho book published, but, alas! those publishers who consented te read it said they could not risk 1'rou. Hum's enmity by publish ing so audacious a volume; while one gentle man even relusod to read It at all. saying: "When one i as pretty as you one does not write a philosophical work; or, i( ono doe, it larks common sense!" So pretty Muie. Juliotto had to carry her philosophy to an obscure publisher, to whom the thousand francs were irresistible even wilh no common sense behind thorn, i hen the authoress fled to the country t. view her success or ruin from afar oft. It turned out to bo sii.-es,-. No one would believe that the book had been written by a woman, and both tieurge Sand and Mine. d'Agoult lllanlel Menu wished personally lo thank tho gallant " man" who bad avenged their sex. (ieorgo band accordingly sent a messenger In search of the unknown author. Ho ob tained the address, all-. i and seat up his can!. Miue. Juliette comedown. " Mmo. Juliette La Messine .'" ho began. "It Is I." .. . . "Impossible: must bo your mother-in-law. Hut the young authoress asserted her iden tity andusksd for a week to coosidor lieorge band's invittiou winch accompanied her message. In the mean time Mine, d Agoult sent a letter also containing an Invitation. Mine. La Messiue did not hesitate to accept this. She responded, and Mine. d'Agoult. as tonished at tho learning and wisdom uf the young writer, offered her Irlendshlp on con dition that lieorge band' advance bf ae- ROYAL Baking Powder ft jB exceeds, all fj others in f H leavening power, Bj ';S purity and wholesomeness; makes food lighter, sweeter, H of finer flavor. H No other jig should be used. H . J- i -il iff I sjbIM elined Mmo. Juliette accepted the propo. Hi I iifl Ition. but ten years later she herself sought i l 4 the friendship she then passed by and begged 1 ILK fH Georgo Sand's protection. X , J After tho death or her first husband Mm. i km Ia Meislne married M. Adam, a statoamas , 1 H and financier. Her salon then became th r IflJ leading one In Lai is Her hush .nd discovered ksffffl Hnmbetta. and under bis banner the anion iH took on political significance. Mine. Adam IffSH always stand when receiving. Although iiH frrnnamother of several yenrs' standing. og fffffffffj ins increased Instead of diminishing hei IliiH beauty. Her Whitehall softens her expression , and seems to envelop h-r head In a vaporous, ai H delicate cbcid. She Is always well gownod. Mi fffM nnd even when so busy that like Napoleon L, she dictates many lettersat a time. Mine. Adam fSH Ilnds opportunity to talk about dressesand Biffl conault her feminine friends on fashion. flj oxb tovcu of rimisixB xatvbb ,', 9H iMvil rfffl Made Kuaan II. Anthony Kin with All lies Safl Audience, InE! It was otone of tho great congresses which UPS have formed the nucleus In hicngo for th SSli notables from every country and clime Inter- -wills ested In the advancement of culture and th tfiflH diaseminntlon if progressive Ideas. Thecrowd had unite overflowed eno room and filled an- ' ":. othor In tho Art Palace, under promise that tin celebrate.! speakers Would inpent their pro gramme to the overflow meeting. The night E9o6 wns insufferably hot. tho people disappointed ; H ond Impatient. To mnke the wait less tedious . J- Susan 11. Anthony was called upon to nddres wKt thorn, and she did so in the whimsical and ar H ,. BHB castle vein with which she veils an earnest- feaSSs nes of thought and purpose, to which she has liw . J gslggS devoted a lifetime of effort nnd sacrifice. J I Still, this crowd was not a suffrage gather- fmpgjsH lng. 'Ihev were not in sympathy with th II (gwBH strong-facod woman In tho plain ,Kwn jHB j SHB who addressed thum. she know intuitively VAMl WWa that sho was not holding them. Suddenly 9bMB she stepped forward to the edge of tho plit- HBIS form and sold confidentially with n little) 1 . '1 2 BSB smile: " I didn't know I wns going to he called upon to address you this evning. Ill had I ISKB should have put on my other gown. '""n Bffin Instant sho had won them, every ono. The !SR9 one touch of nature, or vanity in this strong; sSSSS little woman with the iron-grav hair combed St3HS down each side her lace, made every woman 9Sii her sister, every man her Irlend. If a vot) loH could have been taken on tho spot everyone B in the audience would havo cost a ballot IOC NH Susan U. Anthony and In r platform. Lt UER PUT POHCVl'IXB WAS IX It. 9K Why the Adirondack Lover .lumped ITpfroa 9fl9 the Iilic Hocking Chair und Fled. agi BBiBSBBT Betti.kment. Aug. 2.1 Anne Bo fffflfl son is one of the prettiest girls on this side of H the Adirondack, and. added to that. 1 ol a jLS most pleasing disposition. Moreover, she is BBj an interesting talker and able to entertain li.SjJ 5H fftjH anyone. As a natural consequence ther is nH not a young man within twonty miles of here) : H that does not wish ho could get her to accom- B pnny him to the picnics and social here- 1 ( B abouts. Not a few hove tried to go with hero) 1 steady company, to uo the woodsy expres- $ Hfl sion. but not till Lorn Lawson camo along and B asked her to go and see the fireworks at Met- Bi9 calf Stream Settlement a year ago last Fourth loBfl of July, would she have it known that she was - jaffiaf "goln'with" any ono regularly. Thereafter .Sjis 11 she accepted Loin's Invitations right along. SLtobH Now Lorn is a lull. lank, and thlu man of 23 Skfli years, und ho has a small, fuzzy moustache BK8 that just shows a color of red on his upper lip. WSa Then his bands and feet are much larger than 5lg most young men's, and thoy seem In the way sssj8 or out ol place. Tho toe of one booth an ... . awkward habit of cntehlng the heel or the im other one. while his hands swing in a long KH sweep with every stride. uU" Mm Why tho prettr Anno should have selected homely Lem Instead of. say. tho little pale raced son of the storekeeper at liln-k Lake or some other " likely chap." is somotnlng th woods people could not understand. tin Sunday night Lem as usual went to the. JH Horson house und Anne met him at the door dressed in a bright, tight-fitting gingham H dross thnt made her form seem as light as her wavy brown hair. H-r cheeks wore tinged with shade- ol brown and red to b found no where in such perfection as In the Adirpn- daeks. on.; her blue eyes -but no matter. i -, Perhaps Lem wo not proud when he walked hy Aline'- sido down the road to the school- HHD sBSB home which serves as a church here, bu those win. saw him say that he never walked wU o straight und numb; bof. ro. ' mWSi After the satmoii Lem and Anno walked ij tygsfg elowly down tho road toward tho Horson place. WMSSt unit that was the last the people saw of hlltt SgffiS until next morning, when I.uk- Wllmuit met t-lflfcl MM htm with a pack on Ills ba-k us heavy as . hia 9H face was long. What happened between those flaH hours only his sweetheart has told. wSj Anno says thnt sho and 1 -m walked up tn Mi road, pa-t tho house, ond th.-n. after her fern- HH lly were in I ed. they eiinie hack ami sat on the BMB porch talking till she was a bit chilly. Then BfJH she and loin went into the parlor. It Ml HH pretty dark there, for the light Irom the lit- obbbbb le lamp led on the dining room table for IBM Anne come through the halt-closeddoor. Be- fm side tho front wihdow was a big ohl-fasli- MB loned cushioned rocking chair. (io ng to this. .; . ..H Anne gave It a little hitch ond asked Lem. who M mM stood bi tho door twirling his hat in hia SaJP lingers, to hove u soot. These big. old-fash- M loned rocking chairs ure round In every Adl- WEB rondoek house, and for ...me reason prettr ' Mslffl girls like Anne hnve a habit of asking their H&H loveis to sit in them alter returning from ;.i; , - ; church at night. . .. H Lem went to tho chair, dropped his hat on the floor, nnd with his haul on ono of the arms he hit himself drop into tho sent. My! The way lie lumped up again ana howled as ho clasped hi- hands behind him WjBW I say fairly took Anne's breath, but Lam had enough bbjbbbjj left to soy os he turned around: j,m sflRl ' Vou. what In tho devil's in that -by jlinp flsl it's thot domed porcupine. KBB 1 obbbjbjj So It was. The tame porcupine Salter, of which Tin- Sr told a story recently, hod wan- ! derail Into the parlor and (..und a bed on Uio cushion of the! Ig ro. king chair. Anne ears: .. sjbbbbb ' I couldn't have holped laughing I! lit WtJ V died." Hut wh.n she laughed lorn gave a small muscular giggle and then hitched side- wavs toward the door, saying he reckoned bbjb b he'd hove ler go home." 1 hen. os be opened the door, ho lolled and ran dow-u the driveway east m und vaulted the (once. That was tho lust Anno saw of Lena. TllS) Bfl next morning at about 4:10.0 clock Luke Wll- 1 n,url met I em with a pock haske on hlsbacK ainlarilleaiid fish rod tied together and .his mM dog at his heels. Mien Luke asked him where) bbb bj he wns going Lem replied with bis face and uM eyes turned down at the ground: " Teh ell with yo." and then Lorn stalked up the rood and around the bond, leaving Luke. who has always been Lnm's steadfast frlead, storing niter him In otnaement. Lem has no bsibjbb been soon since by any one th this settlsmenU ! A Fly ii...... III. Buck. iifl "It is curious." said a traveller. " liow a B little thing will b lb. -l a iii-iii I s.,t I hi. other H day In a rullroad our back ol a man who was pJIIJ greatly disturbed by a lly: you know how a fly H will soiuelimes stick to you and you caa't get aH rlit o( lb- man hi u till lb Jtf l dozen times, hut every tlmo the lly wa back: SB the Instant the thn iitenlng hand had passed. 1HH It lighted on hi. cheek, on his forehead, on top fiflStaS of his head, m d all around, and It wound up --WM by flying down hi bo-k. r.-flSB "Then ho was disturbed. Ho wriggled ana ;tP twisted, ami stuck out his chnst. and did very ' Mt thing but lean buck, but the lb refused to vgm oomeouL At last an idea struck bini. He took JiMk out of his pocket a lead pencil, and. holding llf3 It hr its point, ho put tho ..thei end down his SSk back anil then pried his OoHar as faraway illfli from his neck as he could, und la an instant Am the fly flew out and awoi ': TfKM "Helleved' lie had 1. .ked botore a though v -ITS everything In the world was going azalnst --SftSE? him. lie lookeil now although soutebodrkavdj HH .lelt hto a turm," WkW