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The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, March 24, 1895, Part 3, Image 28

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Persistent link: https://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn83030272/1895-03-24/ed-1/seq-28/

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I f ll iv f S y f Hv TTMtiScMiraOB Miti
6 THE SUN SUNDAY MARCH 24 1895
ON THE PANAMA ISTHMUS
IB nisvAnnuKST OF cmniQvi
us THE irJBar COAST
A rrs Of the World that the TonHct U
Nat Apt to SeA Fine Tropic Conatrr
The Town of DeIdA Cllj or tab
I
tr UoTh Very ru r Arlea
ij In IrloBFamllT IIV In flIdA I H sv
t trjturolit kIpper from the Ite
I
Of all the neglected parts of Korth America
Is I likely that none has been visited less or has
attracted less attention from the ceopU of the
United States than the extreme western part of
the Isthmus of Panama known to geographers
as i the Department of Chlrlqul United States ot
Colombia I Is I fair t suppose that many more
Americans el sailors bo Included have visited
the coast of Irccnland than ever saw this tropi
I cal region for therola a regular line of vessels
trading between Philadelphia and Greenland In
f the summer while Chlrlqul Is entirely out of the
way of the tourist And yet It la not difficult of
f aeces and It Is In a variety of ways well worth
< the attention of the traveller I has for In
stance a harbor on the north side of the Isth
mus that Is as good as that of Now York and Is
a deal more picturesque place that would
makethe best naval station In tropical North
America
When I TidIed Chlrloul I entered It from tho
East travelling overland on the bnck of a mule
until I reached the little vlllago culled Horcon
cites on the south coast Then as the constant
reader of TIIK HUN may oosslbly remember I
travelled all night In n rotten leaky dugout
shallow like Albcmarlo
across n ebalol water Iko the
Bund of North Carolina and arrived at David
the capital ot the department just as the first
streak daylight appeared In tho east This
route to David la recommended to thote travel
hrs only who do not grow weary under what
most people call hardships Sitting crosslegged
ID a leaky canoo for twelve hours would seem to
I
I
0
1 CJOVEItNSIEXT JIUILIUXOB DAVID
be a hardship to ordinary travellers Tills may
be avoided by taking a little steamship that
leaves Panama once n month and coasts the
I Isthmus ns far as David for corn rice beans
fustic wood and other kinds of produce to be
i I b there
A KLAtOIITSnrtOUSE MONOPOLY
I The first thing that attracted my attention as
I approached tho suburbs of the town from the
boat landing was an example of British enter
I prise There was a walledIn lot say six rods
I square on one side of the road and from within
this come tho sound of a number of voices of
I men tho most of whom wero laughing A nil
I was squealing and as I arrived opposite a closed
I door In tho wall n steer bellowed from non
Trherent tho laughter Increased
wherelt mightily The
I nail was ea high I could not see over It and so I
atkcd my guide what was doing Inside
I Is I tho city slaughter house he said
Afterward I learned that the building of
laughter houses a a favorite Investment
with an association of English capitalists I
found their establishments at a large number of
i SpanishAmerican towns and very good invest
ments they all were The first thing the com
pany did In each case was t obtain a concession
from the Government granting tho exclusive
i privilege for killing all the fourfooted animals
to bo used a food In the city for 0 period of say
twenty years For this concession a small
percentage of the gross Income Is paid to tho
Government annually A yard Is I enclosed
and n shed built large enough to cover
t tho butchers and all tho cattle likely
r to tw killed In a day A cement floor
0 Is laid under the shed with drains
that lead to a sewer connecting with a running
stream A supply of water sufficient t keep the
place clean Is pro Ided and there are hook and
Julys for hanslng up the dead carcasses Men
to kill and handle tho beats are then hired and
t
the company Is ready for business The cstalv
llthment Is sometimes sold to the Government
c when It Is completed and this was done at
nell The solo functions of tho company aro
to kill and drs s tho animals and dispose of the
I j oral Any one may take an animal there t b
i slaughtered nod then dispose of the
laulhtcrCt Inl car
I cass as ho pleases but no ono can sell
moat In tho city that has not passed
i through this establishment Tho price of
killing a steer at David was 34 end for small
anImal SJpcr head Those aro the uiual prices
elsewhere 5sn nattcrot fact only beef veal
and pork wore produced at David There were
I no sheep When It Is considered that David Is
l a town of about 8000 people It will 1M sen that
I a good many animals had to be killed every year
I I t supply the place with meat Hut the whole
i outfit of tho slaughter house would not have
d cost to exceed 84000 In New York and proba
bly did not cost 310000 of the depreciated ur
J I rency there I handled by honest managers I
hare no doubt theso concerns pay the company
I dividends of from 00 to 100 per celt as one
manager told mo they did This seems t be a
matter worth considering by people looking for
I investments In Spanish America
David as a city Is quickly described It Is I a
I collection adobewalled tlloroofed onestory
hotifes that face narrow streets which are laid
t out checkerboard tashlon There Is I one old
I plaza that Is known as tho plaza and one now
one known u the park The plaza was mere
ly a city block left vacant save for an old church
Dear the centre It contained uo trees Tho
I penitentiary stood on one side and the otflcos of
r the Alcalde the civil and criminal Judge and
4 j tho other Government officials faced another
f i ride The remaining sides were occupied by
dwellings but contrary to the usual custom In
small SpanishAmerican towns the aristocracy
1 did not live on this plaza Their houses were In
the aide streets or on the main business street
where they all kept stores except one Sefior
Don Nicolas Dclgado who kept the hotel and
owned a whole square facing the new park
IIAVIOS OI riOIITFlt
I was a novel experience to find anything that
i was new In a SpanishAmerican town
0 fpAlbhAmerlan except
perhapn a dwelling and I asked how David
happened to have the park
j If Dejgmto had been A Yankee was the roo
wa
If L fie I he lull have l > cii a townslto boomer
t He is a great limn and the best tighter but ono
Inlhlrliiul I Jhn hmi lighter Is his son The
two of thcro run things I in Chlrlfjul though
neither ami cOres to bold ufllce Delgado owned
oOec 11111110 01101
<
r the land round the new park when there woe
no park there and ho decided that a park
would improve the value
hllf of hU town lots He
r told the Alcnhle there ought to be 1 park there
L and tile tiatiIo agreed nt once So I lat Iron
t fence was built around the plot and tho walks
and lower nciU and shrubs followed You see the
r authorities refused lo grant him some ench
eme
Irunt
little inquest as that a Jew years ago and next
day they had a revolution to afo It termed 1
like an easy task to quell it especially when
I eIJocalr
DeJgadoand Hs men began to retrial the mo
lan
men the liovcrnmtnt troops appeared They
w retreated on the I lull I and the soldiers followed
aohJer foloed
y J on the run until they got down In a rasIno about
four mil 1101 I toirn where the road crosses the
i river Then thu soldiers found the woods full
ful
e of revoliitlonltx who Killed about twenty of
re them buforu they knew what kind of n mla
ink < theyll made So tho e that were still
allvu surrendered and everybody dOe just
what the Delgados want done In thesodays
The park was not tho only new thing In town
e In the old plaza the people hud built 1 new bell
t tower for Lhctr church It 1 a handsome tower
J made of stone and it stood at some distance
S from the church Itself after the fafchlon In
r Spanish Ainerlea This was the more Interest
Inc from the fact that the ordinary bell tower
even In cities of considerable biro I Is a little
Kquare tile roof sunpoited by four crooked logs
> standing on end Moreover two new dwellings
werr In lOUr of erection In townnnd com
parnthely I tiHMklng David had an appearance
of lift In spite of its I outoftheway nllearance
IN 8IANIKIAUKIIICAN 1MII6OK
lISOI
I I had my first Introduction to D Spanish
American frlHin on tho dy after my ural In
V David I lull brought a hotter ot I Introduction
i I lo an Kngllthnmn In business there and tho II rat
thing he said nf Ur reading the letter was
I i AILIOU are an American are you 1 We
1 have ipe of your countrymen In Jai hero for
I tuurUCV Vciiild > uu like t ice UlruT 1
I
I
shouldnt like to go If I were In your places hes
very pcullnrllles In a passion for nothing you
may say and Is violent In his speech and ac
tloiio And ties got a snake cure tout still you
Americans mar not look on such things n we
do I never was In the States inn know nnd I Pd
be Kind to direct you If you wish toseu him
his prllol a David looked exactly like any
one of forty different dwellings In the town
Thorewanan adobe wall say fifty feel long
facing the street It had a wide door In the
centre and a woodenbarred window on each
Hide of the door Above wa a redtiled roof
From the door e passage between adobe walls
1Ule
led to a back yard or court on three rhU of
which were found rooms that were all but one
like the rooms of any dwelling there that t
there was a row of plain rectangular rooms each
with no celling with whitewashed walls and
with red tile floors Each had a dor facing thin
court or yard Two of the rooms of the street
front had windows the woodenbarred openings
without glass already mentioned and they were
occupied by otllcers alI sold icre 1lie olin room
that was exceptional will bsdcncrlUd further on
All were shaded by a wld veranda < Theme was
1 mudcurbed well In thn ecntrn of the court
wolin Iolrt
and at the back of the court was an adobn chI
about five feet high beyond which was dome
bodys back yard Only ono man was on guard
and he stood In the doorway with musket loaded
and bayonet fixed
fud
I fourd the man I WAS looking for Mttlngln tho
shadoof the veranda with MM tech on n tahlu
and book In his hand feeling very comfortable
Ho snld ho hadnt killed anybody A dead
man had been found on bin plantation lion over
and he ho would havu Panama
anl thought to go to Ialnla
to clear himself because hi anil the Alcalde of I
the district were had friends Hlseonllncment
waBmerclynonilnil he was rMwcted to sleep
In the prison hut could go out to tradn nt tho
for other 10 during the dar
stores or any r aol Irlll day
r all prisoners treated so < l a < kcd
Oh no Poor devils porno of them are In
hard luck Come hero
Wo went to a wooden door that had a foot
square opening near tho top Hero hn bald
something In Spanish that I did not catch and
<
a Miico within answered ln I HI
Just look In there ho salt
1 took mo some time to accustom my eyes to
the gloom Then tmo I n barewalled rom
with I tile floor I was UO by L4 feet large anti
contained eighteen halfimkcd men rite only
ventilation was through tIn hole at which I
stood and through tho spaces between the
rafters where lint roof patscd over tho walls
I was the hotubt foulest hole < ever fan
What did you say when you poke to them
I asked
I told them you were a friend from the
tnlted States who wanted to see how badly
<
they were treated
Was there any special reason for telling thaU
Well rather They have tho fashion of ro
senttng Intrusion 7tth a chunk of tile I or dirt or
tlll
anything at hand I I The I Covrrnor I would l catch I
It as quickly as any ono who should put his faco
to that hole unannounced
This had ai i and In I It
Ihl prison men nld no women n
Thu In for drunkenness
majority were II petty offence Irllk
enness righting and theft hn American was
treated with marked deference by his ns ocl
Ate They all believed ho had killed n 1 man
They say that no one Is kept In this I prison more
than three or four months Crlme meriting
merllnre
longer term are punished by imprisonment In
the castle at Panama
to
IT WAS AS rxorisii SSAKH ctttn
This tocalled American prisoners name was
Charles Kdwnrd Taylor He I said he was born
In Kngland and came to New York city at the
age of n where ho grew up to mans estate
ehl
Neither ho nor his father took out rl Anicilcan i
papers but he tool voted nt elections Then ho
went to Panama in the employ of tho Panama
Hallroxd and vas there live jears after which
he drifted up to Chlrloul where he had acquired
a1rc
THE MAN WITH TUP SVAKEniTB CtTIK
a patch of Government land by the simple pay
rent of a registering fee and cent Into the cat
tie business It was here that he learnrd to
brew the remedy for snake bite that lad mitt
Enollsh merchant think him peculiar What
ever tho real merit of thu remedy may be I do
not know but Dr Wolfred Nvlon in his book
entitled Five Years In Panama speaks of It as
a good thing
Mr Taylor declared never allot even In tho
case of the most deadly snakes Ho would not
1 oull
tell the secret of the compound The natives
all thought the man a wonderful physician
When I had finished my Interview I wont back
t the Englishman who ali
Hid you tee your countryman Of course
all Americans Inlt belike him He Is very pe
culiar Once ho a riding along on a borrowed
horse and It shied at something and allrnn
tumbled him to the ground What did my bold
American do at that but get down from tho
beast nnd shoot it with his revolver He has
killed no end of cattle too his own us well us
wel
those of his neighbors KvcryanlniM I that breaks
through his fence Into I his cant nr Ida corn U I
shot And then them Is i hi snake cure Of
course not all Americans are like him hut do
you have many as peculiar > RS heV
Why yes we Oo I get a good many curious
pconlo from t Ito old country They do not nil
have Miako cures but Knyliiti emigrants like
him are usually different from others
Ah now why do you call him an English
emigrant 1 He calls himself an American nJlsh
So he does hut h is English becatssH he was
born In England lived them tune wars and
was never naturalized in the States nor is us his
father before him 1
Ah 1 am sorry to hoar you say It I sup
I
posed ho had bon naturalized sup
OIIUOIIH FACTS IIEVKALEn IIY A rKNSlS
An Interesting tact ns to the people of David
and of all the Isthmus for that matter Is f that
Iha
tho wealthy pooplo tend their brightest boys to
New York city to be educated Among titus
graduates of New York schools was Don Itifnel
llencttl Chief IuMlc of thin Supreme Iourt of
Chlrlqul Among other things tin luttlce bail
ci one I n his career its an onklal ui 1 1 the IuII Inll
graduates of New York colleges I met down
there were officials was to takoa census of tho
department Thn ordinary census report nmUe I
very dry reading but this enumerator
lumeratr
hail grouped his figures to form MIIIIB
statements that would rl frtco tho attention I I
of anybody 01 Instance I In I a total population
uf TOii In the olulnIII
701 II Department of Chlrliul hu
found but ini j married people The unmar
ried adults numbered Oll of whom 11 Til iern
widows and widowers Of the unmarried adults
about threefourths the exact number was not
ni
obtained were living together without tho
sanction of the t priest but that did not include I
all who were living so hecausn only thou < over
yi years of age ii ere counted is adults whiln
girls reach the inairiugeable age a lit whl
Another very Infiestlng featurn of the ion
ana was found in m liii clnsidflratlon lie ngp I
I There wero 111 I people over 70 Jems of uuu amid
nine who weru over hot yours old Of tho I I
centenarians seven were women all two were
len It Is worth noting here that every ono of I
these elderly people used tobacco and one of I
the two gentleman whom I hul
lnlem met hII been grad
ually killing I himself with cigarettes fur n trifle
more than nlnetysevcn years The great length
of life attained by the people of David I Is I
tho morn remarkablu from the I fact that
scarcely any attention Is paid to ninltary
matters within the city limits There are
110
no sewers and wells for drinking water
and cesspools may bo found in every
back yard So fevers prevail Thom pooplt ns
Bert and I PAW no reason to doubt It that sick
ness Is I almost unknown In thu rural parts
whero the laud lies ul any elevation hlnh enough
for natural drnlnnge I Is I orlh noting In con
nection with this mutter that until tho year
IHlta there was not one physician In the eritirts
department and slncn that date only one and
he does not find employment half the time
In the olasMileauHi of the peopln by occupa
tions It appeared that there were 117 skilled
mule mechanics and 4OUtl skilled women me
chanlcs Thin disproportion was due to the fact
chletly that tho cigars and clgnrctten produced
were rustic oy worn ana girls oy Whom also
the weaving of cloth All llr making of all
11
kinds of garments were pretty well monopolized
Die In FWIS laborers I included 1 IsIs women
and 01H7 men These wore engaged In grow
Ing grain and vegetables 11
lu vK lalh and also in titus
care of cattle There were 1 few cowclrls
as well as cowboys And women uere found
to among the owners of herds of cattle
the number being a 15 t while of men so engaged
theo were 187 her were women owning
from S 000 to 1AOOO hell of ownlnl
and they managed the stock as well as thu men
did There was no bank In department but
there were eleven raonoy lcnilernwlui carried 01
business very much after tho fashion of banks
borrowing a a low rate and on long time on I h
one hand and lending for short period at a high
1 hlJh
rale on the other and of these ten were ornun
Of 111 merchants In the department SH wero
women of H sailor one was a woman of4
People engaged In taking llsh for n living three
were women of ohio professional mule driven
ono was 1 woman of three people classed ns
naturalists one was a wnmnn of 0 t profes
sional tramps vagabonds eel were women
The vagabonds were all citizen of WOlen
The COO report was noticeable den for I
what It did not contain There was for In
stance neither printer hoc Journalist nor manu
facturor nor miner I
TAXES iv cmhlmtmQtm
CIIUQII
Should any one reading this wish to go to I
Chlriqul to make hh hOle he will be Interested
In learning jomethlng about taxes Every
foreigner mint pay a poll tax 01 I ru ef1
In I tho only difference the Government makes
between citizens all foreigners and since the
payment of that tax exempts one from military
duty no ono finds Mull with It Every merchant
pays a monthly tax that would b called oppres
sive clrewhrrc I tor It Just about equals the rent
of a business hOI lu sortie cases It exceeds
thin rent Ono merchant paid SUO a month
tar but his rent A only 4 > The Al 1
calde llxrd the tax rate and tho Intent
luII tx rAo
of the law governing the mater was
hint tho tax Humid be levied at 1 rate In propor
tion to the tmilnes done They told me bat no
man was taxed beyond the lawful rate I he III
jiisllco of the plan appeared In the arbitrary re
duction of the amounts collected from the per
sonal friends of thin I Alcalde There Is I no tax on
land but every cattle breeder must pay annually
Ir COlt leI head of stock owned 1 he land
laws of Colombia are very liberal Any foreigner
t art
er cnn own land there unless It Lo the citizen of
a country In which a Colombian could not own
rent estate There Is I vast quantity of iovern
ment land unoccupied mind It Is ns good land MIn
lenL UJlrl
any the sun shines on I can bo had for tho
cost of 1 Rlr r mind fees that amount to Dot
more than two do lars of tho country
A N VAl STATION IOll UMCtG SAM
The description of department of Veraguns
lying eastot that of Chlrluuls as printed in timE
Ilnl
SCN t sore tutu ago will apply very well t
rhlrlqiil It is a wonderfully brnntlful park
The Cordilleras cast and west near the centre
luNIIrRs <
of the department rrom the backbone ttit laud
slopes rapidly lo thn sea and yet thor are tliou
rands of square nillec of table lands that to the
eye seem level Ilrooks creeks all rivers by
t hit score rtc in tho mountains and tumble and
froth ali plunge down the declivities their
banks covcied with trees that are forever In
bloom whim between 1 tho streams are found
tho open lands from which ono may look
away to tho sennl the youth or north accord
ing to his position icgardlng I tho mountain
range It 1 Is here that tho marvellous llower
known as thin tinner of tho Holy I Ohost I Is I found
n cup of tho color of purest alabaster within
which Is I I tin white doo with n crimson beak
It Is I but n tow degrees north of the equator
one can see from David tho North star just peep
ing nlxivo tho mountain ranze and yet on thn
blithest levels wheat and oats will grow while
corn rice sugar cattccery dcalrablo vcge
C
1r
ci
rrttntooDEn ciiiniQi INDIAN noy
table prrnluct cnn bo had by merely scratching
tha soil with n crooked stick and dropping In tho
heed 1 On the gruund that Is I a thousand feet
iii ivc thus ea It 1IIl I too hot and never too
cold There weru s30 foreigners lu the region
when I was there and those with whom talked I
said that none of the number was ever sick
It was to the northern shore of this gardenrtf
Eden that the famous old war sblu Kcarbnrite
came once lon a line under tho command of
Iapt Pickluir P I S i X Capt Picking was un
der orders of which no ono on board except
himself knew anything Iho old steamer en
tered a bay of which tho mouth Is known as
Itnca del Tlgre and the bay I Itself is called tho
Chiriqul lagoon Here for some weeks the ship
wits anchored while email boats surveyed the
harbor In I nil directions 1 I the crew meantime Ink
Inc turns in going on shore lor picnics With Its
depth of water II sandy bottom Its sheltering
Inlands and Its mountain background there Is
but one harbor on the American continent that
in all respects equals It and that is i the harlKir
of Hio Janeiro apt Picking was scut them
to report on the fitness of the harlMir as a naval
station and lucre Is I now a document lu I t hut
Navy Deputtmuntat Washington bearing bis
signature thai says It U perfect for thu pur
pose However it WB never acquired and
under tho present policy of tho our Govern
ment It never wii he
A survevwas once made across thoCordllleras
at this point with 1 viftv of building 1 railroad
to David A that
I pas Ihlt isas possible wax found
but tho expense would be too grpnt to warrant
building ii road At present there Is I not even a
mule trail and yet trade is carried on from side
t aide The cargoes am carried by Indians
but there are places whero they must use hands
us well n feet In climbing the precipices and
elfewhero they huvc to crawl along on hands
ami Knees
10 THIS TUB tTOPIA Or THE TIE
HMes the author of The Naturalist on the
Amaiins concludes his story by HBS lug For
<
11
I hold the opinion that although humanity I t can
reach an molt iineed state of culture only by bat
tling with the Inclemencies of nnturu in high
latitudes it Ic I under the equator alone that tho
perfect race of hue I future will attain tocumplcte
I fruition of lana beautiful I herltage hu cHI h
Thereat every rthrulrpltt from Dan to Deer
hhelii rose up and I protested man In his noblest
I form was found in I the t north temperate zone and
the I 70110 was tho
heritage
temperate tl proper ot
JulIr
any race of men vorthy the niuio said
I thu ethnology Hharos Nevertheless let It
not hu torgiit tutu that Ito civilized men
of the Americas Infore tho Spaniards
lOe St its found in the Monies i nnd in ancient
diys the Greeks the Knmsin and thoJ 1 eW
Hied on the sunny shores of tie Mediterranean
s > omi time people will hegln to see that Ilio
where nil of onetdiys mu > ihcdcoled to I annul
scramble for money la a Ilfu not worth living
They will seu that t a lift where a brief time only
Is I needeil to tt thY his foal and raiment and
where much tino remains for cultivating Its
Intalleet Is totter They will see that this hthe
ideal 1alll will adopt It This kind of n life
1f
might bo found lu I tho tropic now Thu
ILuiIiIt of the do
lOn l t tropics not lead such
u lift they pas their spare lime in
Idleness ur them pursuit of sensual joys
until enti ti ret 1 to t desperation 1 antI then they t
kick up a revolution Hut if the
khk 1 rrulltn people of titus
lempernte region vhoare weary of their strife
for a mere lit ing could reallu the t possibilities
that await I 111 on the I highlands that extend
from Chlrlqul i on this Isthmus to the State of
lineari In Mexico I fancy they I would Hock
there in Mich numbers an to wipe out the traces
of barbarism that still remain thetc and bring
to piss I tItus condition of affairs which Hates
foretold I never met n foreigner In the region
win did not pay U I was Hods own country
and I met very few who did not Immediately
add but I Is I leised to the devil h11lliately
IIOTKr MFK AT 1 nIl
Life nt lie hotel of Srfior i Delgado Is worth
decrlblng luuuii use It I t Is Illustrative I < the life I I tin
people a hun live In thu loivn t and hcrause sueh
lintels nru commonly misrepresented hy Kng
llshwrltlng travellers tho misrepresentation
consisting I not so much In I direct untrue state
ment us a in I thu i ny lIt it t thu I actual facts are
stated and commentod fur
lllellnllUIIltOI on Instnnce In one
Look eonecrnlng lIfe In Spanish America ulr I
have nail It I 11 salt o 1 hotel that the t Hour
WUK covered with I t dirt I the wall dh iii I hog tho
bedrooms did not reach the roof and there was
lS
no ceiling the space almvr being If ft upen for
the t circulation of air and bats the dlllli I
room WUK actually n pig st > e and to tho
statements ran for D paste or two
At the house of Don Nicolas
un 1110 Delgado I had a
iiih te itt luuroouiH flout facing the park and the
other n linn IT and vegetable garden In the rear
far
The tile four was apparently covered with dirt
but an examination showed that thin dirt wits
tlo Ilrt 1
clean eand This sand was swept up from time
to I I tutu 111 replaced with a fresh supply from
the liver i Thero was no celling nnd the Miaco
under 1 the i roof was upen CI Hats Vll have paeo cir
culated I there I but they didnt 1 tiii lie I occupied
thu room llesldcs I bats would not barm
nny one even If they Ill circulate
twy
there t on the contrary they would drive
tin itt winged I InmciH And then here
was a pig In thu dining
pil dllln < rom It might
have been offensive to come travellvis but it
Has a pet pig It wns 1 wellwashed little tel I
ov and In I no way did hu violnto the proprieties
lluwjls in I faet an Intereitlnir plum for lie
would lax his iitlstntss for it Lite or something
i to eat during meal time hy rubbing liU nosu
iigauxt her foot and grunting In a low voice
And when this failed to bring 1 morsel hu would
glo her foot a bite and then back off all snort
In tiligust looking nt her the while in n oor
that HHmcd to say Take that then Every
body laughed at that caper and a bit of tortilla
wu always tlul to him Moreover thn pig
had learned a number of tricks commonly
taught to dngs such an rising on his hind legs
for I morsel of fond and bugging by a grunt
when hut < to ask for food irunt
The family of Dun Nicolas confined of hU
wife the grown ton already mentioned three
grown daughters tho wlfo of the bOil and four
or five servants No brighter morn active or I
more pleasing family can bo found In the
tropic Although I was out of bed nt sunrlse
every morning I found on going to the dining
room that the family bad already taken their
morning collee and the women were all busy
around the dining table making cigars The
two men were commonly seated at the table
also hut they smoked Instead of making cigars
The women 1 err nil quick workers car
bacco WHS of their own cultivation It was
I dark strong leaf but of fair flavor
The > oung ladles were Invariably nell drened
while at this work but the mariirtl <
hl II worl mlflld ones worn
wrappers which lucked buttons In Important
I localities ami were not too clean The labor of
the day lasted until breakfast time 11 oclock
In thu morning The ladies came to breakfast
jut iss they were when they worked with the
I tobacco leaf but after the meal they a put on
fine clothes and going to the parlor lounged on
n hammock or sat In the chairs and UI ii little
sewing llrcakfast and dinnerware aboutallke
We had soup fish two or three kinds of meat
ono of which wasalways boiled with vegetables
salad a sweet of some kind and black cotToe
lleef was always served fried nt breakfast how
ever and roasted lit dinner and that was the
only difference between trio meals
We had nat venison once lon Nicolas said
that deer wild pigs panthers jaguars wild
turkeys a sort of a partridge three kinds of
doves Otto kind of squirrels and some other
mkn
1
Ivaebro < cg rrfoo aren
eatable animals could be found 11n tho moun
tains but the work of killing them Is I morn
than they are worth And that Is thn com
mon opinion among Spanish Americans
I did not see Don Nicolas or his ton do any
work but one II tho other rode away to tho
country every day where they > owned cattle
ranches and sugar plantations Their work
consisted In overseeing tho work on these farms
They were 1 oVelernl 1 wealth ts I counted In
that country and this fact makes the dally
lalmr of the women In making cigars nil thu
more Interesting Tho making of cigars Is tho
fashion among the women In Chlrlqul
A YAXKIX HAllOll IX Tit THOlICS
One must travel far out of the way I ho
would find u region where no Yankee lives
much further than David
lueh flrt III One of the best
kmmn foreigners I Chlrlqul nus Cap Thomas
Carey Saundurs Verv likely the nnder has
forgotten the later but on Nov 11 IHHP 1 TUB
SUN told a story of 1 Mrs Sounders who had
killed hers l with Illuminating las thc day he
forn at the home of Mrs Sarah Hush lfisn
Third avenue She a tin wife of Capt Saun
4 i J 1
lf 1
l
CAlT SC1Drn
ders who then us when I saw him was tho
commander of tin little Iron steamer Alvira
plying bet ti cit i David I anti Puntii Arenas lu I
roUi Ktcn When I met the Captain nt
David alt told him I was a SUN reporter
he I was good enough to say ho would
rather seiu Srx reporter tItan coy other bu I
causa Tun StN was the only paper that was
careful to get tho exact truth when his wlfo i
killed herself Cupt Saunders was a Virginian
by birth Virginia hues not furnished a great I I
IAn sailors but thin Captain wa of the sort I
that have nindu Yankee sailors famous Ho I
bad run unity from homo In lHtr to become 1
sailor and had worked his way Into the cabin
During the war of the rebellion he bad fought
on the side of tho I South a Galveston chiefly
where he himdlid a small feet as well as In
dividual vessels He began tell mu one day
fihoot the lights there Ivlnc I thu while In n
comfortable hammock As Ihu story pro
gressed he roo up to n Ill posiuru
that hu might 11 better show how tho
opponents laced cnrh other Ho I moved un
easily as he tuld how lieu tiring hal while
thirty odd muggers I the stokehole snug psalms
and raked up the tires and a hundred sneaks
cowered about the butler unknown to me A
biz shell came along after a time timid burst
right over the boiler Thero wasnt I nlgitur
got n scratch but sixty t of thus sneaks
wero killed and thats how 1 found they wero
there The Captain lay > baeK in the hammock
and chuckled this hut in
at t II a minute morn he
Wn on hU teet roused till his blood tingled
tl
In every vein a s he told how hn ram
med ono of thin Yankees and smashed the
smithereens out of his own ship doing I Now
the point to which I wish to call attention Is I
that here was 1 man seventy years old who had
all the lire > antI enthtMnsm of I man of thirty
1 man six feet tall with broad shoulders deep
chest Urn muscles and I clear bead and yet
twenttle years of his life bad been passed
alongshore In the tropics He had II1
Panama for years had commanded vessels on
f
hot tI1 Ii < oasts had klJO In one Isthmian gold
mine and had for five rears pasted in all out
of the swamps that bonier for twenty miles tho
river that forms the port of David
It is not worth your whih telling I prrolo the
tropics mire not unhealthy he said You will
1
ruin even Ti Srss reputation for veracity It
you do but the fact Is I that but for the lover
and ngtin among the lowlands this Is thu hoalth
lest country in the world <
TO SKi TEN THOUSAND HHItLIANT 8VAKKS IS
AN HOLTII
What was It In this country that Interested II
you most when you madu your tlrst trln hero r
wild I The Captain chuckled u bit und said
The shakes bi
lint I Captain I have como practically all this
war from Panama i mule I back and I havu
cruised through your swamp hero in a dugout t
and trio on tin lookout for snakes constantly
and yet I havent Itvo
RIII II1ent seen oven one garter
I dont doubt it I moment he nidbut
you come back hero nt t but beginning I of Ihu
rainy season and Ill show you 1DOUO snakes
from thedeck of mv Meniier Insido of an hour
This Is a right intcrestinj country for n natural
ist I especially 1 snukn naturalist Von see the
mountains back there t are bandy by and lucy
are tall The old volcano rises 1 lJIIi feet above
tho sen So when the rains come and the water
pours out of the clouds tho torrents came down
out of thu gulches up I tberu in i I stat to make
II
your hall rise It is I not I heavily wooded coun
try It is more like 0 pirk with plenty of
lawns and the water runs oir those t
liwns into the gullies nnd then in thn creeks
whero It I comes tearing along in waves twenty
feet high sometimes Why It Is I 1 fact that tIn
larger l streams often rUo nir twenty feet in
twenty mlnutis Perhaps von do not sec what
thu has to do with Hakes lint Ill I I I tell I you The
snakes hibernal during tho dry season and
stake up with this frt rail and when they
wnk tin they nrc the most sociable things sou
can find anywhere I lea thats tholreourt
I tug sea on eh 1 Anyhow they all get together
in bunches of well I reckon you wont believe
It but Ive seen bunches of 1 hundred all lied
up In a great knot Then ionies onu of thosn
frcshcUt with Its flood nboomlng down the
creek valluys sweeping ever thing before It
The Hood just gathers ip evervthliS that will
flout and somo thingt that wont and 1 carries the
whole outfit out to sun Why 5 on cal tell when
yon am off the I month of nn Isthmus I river In I tho
earlv wet season Just by the bunches of snakes
youll find floating around out at sen diamond
backed rattlers and stiiped vipers ali red bel
IIvait brilliant lot to look nt If they cnnt get at
you You may think I ten I thou I nnd snakes n big
number hut Just j como horn after the rains first
set In Ill show you that many in an hour
A limiON roil A NATfllAIIST
t find that travellers generally speak well or
S1nrl w1
Ill of a place not according I to I Its I natural ad
vantage or dlMidvniitnge but according to
their personal experiences In It Possibly I nm
I 10lHlll
Influenced thus comewhat when I Fay that of Mil
the I outoftheway places I have visited be
tureen Ivlgtut Greenland ali Ishunla Tierift I 1
del Kuego theru Is I none to which l I would hu so
<
ulnd to return ns to David Hut this Is not
Jut
wholly I dun lo I tlin memory of this life I I nt the
hotel of Don Nicolas As told lu TIIK
01 lcoll AI was 101111 Tit Srv I
nlHitit a year ago Chirlqiil wns once the nomn of
1 rites of Indians who were comio artists itt ft
high simile of Intellect The 1 region Is I full I I of tho t
remains of llllr stork In clay until It has been
by > no menus exhausted of their products In
gold and copper IJ1 all that II known
of lids work was gathered by nn Amer
Ian Mr J
A McNeil of Michigan who for n
number of years resided at David und proecuted
the search for relics with vigor ulullroecllld lut I
Neil I WIIM not I mal of wealth I In fact he Impov I
erished himself In I his enthusiasm Hut 1110
mire thus Islands olfthore with their treasure
wholly unexplored and tho Cordilleras have
Iorlilems
only hiren scratched over Then there guru the
< Jhrn 111
Indians of the present day No one capable of I
nppruclatiug them has tner learned their I Inn
gus ge practically nothing Is known about them
mill Set in tnrtft uLtll fin vi > nuara timl tiu 111
mlMH they are llnt artists nnd it altogether I
likely that they havo a JiterHturo well worth in I
vestigating And then thero arc the explora
tions In oology and botany not to mention
mineralogy I that would u bensourceof perpetual
delight to ono who loves nature si hills above all I
towers the peak of tho old volcano that has
net er yet been scalrd
On the day appointed for the steamer to sail
I walked out of town and acriu u dusty plain
anl Iuhl
In tho noonday glare ol the tropical cut It was
I walk of over four miles to the landing nnd I
carrhsl my own baugage but I suffered no ill
effect from the walk In fact It did me good
I
I bellevn that great Io lit the Ills attributed
to Ito cllmato ot the tropics due to lack of ex
ercise Proplu I think they will get tie fever If
they venture Into tho sunshine and so they Idle
the days away amid the liver becomes Uirpld b 1
cause of the Idleness In confirmation of this
theory li tho experience of the club of young
foreigners at Panama who were for the younl
part connected with lieu railroad and chipping
rnlrlld
They played tennis cricket baseball anti hued
no end of athletic sports m the open son where
the climate In I confessedly bad but they re
mained healthy mil hearty whIle the Idlers
died oft of tho chncres fever
ON A rillltlytI IACKCT SHIP
I tOld alt Saunderss hlp tied up to a cat
tie chute bnddu the river A gang of shouting
natives were loading the ship with fat steers
AH has been told In TiE HtM a cattle ship In the
tropics Is not even at best particularly Inviting
11ltnl
u a pasjcDter ship but 1 think the Alvira wa
the worst packet everyihlnp considered that
ever left n Jckel She was nn Iron craft and him
been a long In tho service mittS so poorly inred
for that her smokestack haul been entirely dn
strnyed by rust To replace It the crew had
knocked tognther a lot of corrugated Iron plitc
such as are used for house rooting In American
mlno ininrn She hud two nla t but I both
were to rotten that thoy had to bo llshed with
4
I J t c I 1 r
r pt f 7
r p f
zr = i
Till RTBAMIMt AtVlll 5
pieces of plank held on with rope As for titus
hull 11011111 1 know how badly It si its rnsteil but
Cnpt Siiundeis tald It I was ruthir lender
and he did not like I to drive It nbovu four knots
nn hour hecniise he tnt mit oil It I t to hold together
until n new ship then building arrlvitl out
from England
The must Intcrrttlni Horn of freight wns n
lot of cnfls of kero eni oil from Hrouklyn
about 1 tilt In all I sdindlng on duel They had
come from Panama I in I n schooui r and went
stripped of their wooden CISIM because they I
paid duty by tin tnund on entering Co tn Itlcn 1
They wero chiefly 1III I ttlll t however bvcuuso
two of them leaked lUll the quarterdeck
where they stood tuutit lit 1 snaked with I t oil I U I
wa a pine lIe k nnd was continually warm lu
spltoor u itouil iiwiilntr but the huppygolucky
natives dropped burning iUanlie MUll nnd
even blaring match stick In I Hint t ollsoikiid
pine with due rnmu Inilllfereheo I that I they
dropped tho I things I overboard I do not know
why tbo deck did not Ink fin
Among other things thu ship carried 110 head
of fill cattle that paid 10 I pr bund for tI u lit pas I
sage a do7cn horses anil mules at lie t sumo I
price ill pigs that paid Situ tell eowbov 011 S j
each some hundreds of tons of corn tint rice
nnd biin at all cents per hundred poiuuls and
n half doen cabin pnssemrers nt u ir 1 each This
for n vnyagc of little I over thirtysix t hum HII ue For
fuel the steamer burned 0 cords of wood 1 at fl
per cord iti a passage hut her deck hands cost
her only SO > per month and her i llremun 1 t5
As clue made two voyages a month I and had a
full rnrpo every trip to Punta Arenas there was
nu excellent margin of prollt In running her
Among the passengers thu I only I woman wtis n
girl of 1H of the barefooted eh Hhe hud hei
plnced the tart < nt the Ciiptnln by her u mil her I
am because the t I Cnnuilu wnsn Yiiiiw Mm win
n < well treated during 1 tin lit tiitgi tic thu t I wife of I
tlio Piesldont of Hie I Itepublii would hivn been
Omit cin tell n Yankee Bailor the world over by
tho courttsy he shmvs toward wosuun tsnveiling
alouu In his ship
From what has boon snll thu render might
Infer thnt we were al in considerable danger
during the > isaic but I ati h mud to ay this I
wns not reallv suu she WH a lotten tub hut t at
that season u of the jealeaily t m I lit Marehithu h t u ni
there Is asgmoothus the Hudson I I inJun < She
to glut have taken fni t hut hu was nearly nil I this
time I I within easy rtu h of u u theshire I Asa iiatier
of fuel 1 never made n tunic tuii flui lallo I PIMIUO
nt sen anywhere We nil swung ourhnimmiekM
under the awning as soon ni the lilies I I n ere cast
off nnd tlcu lolled Into the hummocks nnd
listened to t u 5 yarns about alligators as bitround
itt a barrel and twenty feet long of gathering
pearls where ilhi have the iiiiuIt nf tilling iir thin
air supply pipe and ufpigs trained by tint it ckln
hunters to squeal nt ns to I attract jmuns t
nnd panthers up In the mouitiins We wnn lied
the mat of tres that lined I tin I twenty mil ii mJhs
of inland navigation ns wu slipped along and
when In the ofon MM turni1 to look at the ever
glorious vista of upland parks and him moun
tain peaks on the onu hand or gaed curiously >
on tho unexplored fureMiovcred Islands that
were Passed tin lie other Wo dined Iroin n
bill of fnro that Included chicken potpuuf Hit
good old Yankee styli nid a plnctliplipie also
nindn amtkte fashion in tilaei iif I hi liviiil
Spanish America puhling Incidentally wa
played a quiet little game of draw penny ante
with n 1O cent limit it which tin I i iptnln
showed such skill that one might huc suppocd
him nlCentueklan Instead of u son of tile Yir
glut The bourn passed all too qulkly
Wo loft David on thu ntternoon I of Saturday
March > and early on tinmoridog i I of Monday u
March we steamed into tho itilf of Nlioya in
tho rcpublio of Costa Kiwi lie fort noon wn
saw on one hand thin low pindy beach with its
straggling collection of bouses called Puutu I
Arenas nnd on the other a tinutlfiil rolling 1
island called San Iucns Snn luciis I isnn I Island
that soni thousands of A muusriue tic have PCCU 1
probably from the decks of Pacific Mall steam
er but because no ono was along to describe it
it was nnleoted by theo passengers for the
less interesting town on the sntidv beach
hIt Island of San Liica is I the national
iiriMin of CoMa Kicn for meal criminals as
distinguished finm political I cutlets In I the
course of my travels for Tin Srs iwnsnbluto I
gather a good many facts about half n doen dif
ferent LntlnAiuerlian prions of which this
was one in fact I visited several and was oturn
locked up In onu as a spy in company with ono
of Incle Sams naval young men who was
under the same charge Hut whnt I saw and
learned in this matter will bu told in another
article JOHN hi 1 SIKAILS
FITRCT FISH xKI it XKW ORLJANt
Northerner ITnvn report In Anscllnc for
lllc Oar 1ike In tile llityiiu
Nrw OitiBANsMarch in A couple of North
ern lliliirmen hnvu been having novel nnd ex
citing sport on one of tho bayous just outside
the city Tho fun is titus result of nn experi
ment Last Tuesday they went out for crnpplrs
with Ugh I rods and lines I and had very fair
sport tine of the two towurtl the close of the
day observed some nig llsh feeding not far from
where the dugout was anchored called the at
tention of the darky boatman lo them and in
quIt eu what they were
Ueys gars alligator gars boss was the
reply
replyWell
Well they look pretty gamy why not fish
for them I They mint In what it l known lu gar
pike n kind of enormous pickerel
Tho boatman gunpcd und dropped a fresh
cnucht crappIe uvurhonrd in his nmncmcnt
1Iuh for gars boss Ntt tilt cltkheii Nchbcr
see mu do soch fool works suit Olio dcm gars
kin yank n man cnto do brunch nn oneo ho
Eutii him lu do wntcr lies lihlu I I to I chew him up
Hut thu boatmans warnings were lost on the
Ynnuo enthusiast t is Ito suulcd out yesterday
morning with his companion to try the guns
Thai boatmin declined uen to paddlo thu due
cut no they decided to take turns al fishing and
managing the boat They wero armed with two
big reels of heavy hardlild braided linen hInt
llsh line I each about one hundred yards In length
heavy doujlo leaders or snoods of plmiowiro
gimp and sevoial monstrous trulllng bpvns of
the biggest sIze made Thu spoonn weru of llutod
silver oa ono sidu tool wero painted vermilion
on the other Kioni each llniihung twograpples
of thruu I hooks each sio No S u A cotiplu of
tinglejoint sevenfoot saltivatcr bass bultroils
completed thu I outfit
They reuiitd the bayou Just ns tho suit wns
beginning to settle In tic West nbout I oclock
tho tlmo wlirn on their Insi trip they t noticed tint
big lellows beginning lo feed As they i ushed
oft from shorn thu puldler polntid I lo 1 heavy
wnke juiiHheud j and then t tutu dark olive t hacK
and head of a gar pike rolled into I sight for nn
Instant svti his n Hock of fngliicmd groupers
leaped from list water Juicily I tuu two pad
died past the rlpidu whoro the I giant Ind risen
and tin man In t bit stern put over tin spoon anti
began to pay out Via big L thing I whirled i and
glittered liku n mar in Iho hlnck water
Less thrn leu jartis had been let out wnen
theiu camo u quick strong lug on tho rod
nnd a big gar pike halfleaped fmn tle
water mil then iulthiitttl l astern with nil spocof
Thu reel began to ncreini niil I ihu hinvy it rut
was pnfcd The man nt the piddle iitsslieii
thu dugout lor I all hu was worth to follow flue
big Huh and leeren this strain Iho i steady strum
mon txhuiiPteil the bin pike and nfur llvu
mlnulesot light t hue liefiin to splash on thu I Cur
face Then hu stilffred himself lo hu drugged to
tho aide of tint dugout ns gently asahunb
One gnflud bo madu a kick until nlmoM cut
awn > whllu his cuptom si era straining tu get
him aboard This I ilri t rntch wns ttilly i I I tour fret
long und wutt marked and shaped much like u
pickerel hut wau far darker unit decicr from
Luck to belly
The nuktiUh hooked ww far larger inn in t
Ills antics ho nearly upetthe dugout lie 1 I llnully I >
cut thu Him with a s leliiin mapnr hi shirk
like jaws and carried nwitynbuut twenty yiiulH
of It Tho third prize wns nUo big bring
jiiviuiuau u moi iitiKir mail c ito nrst nnu u
took nearly twenty minute i to kill I I him llu I I
weighed llirt pounds tutu sties n veiy haudtomn I
specimen Then tim gar pikes seemed to tire of j
spoons nnd no moru huts ianiu for n while A
grouper w us then I tried nnd in less than I n min
ute utter the new halt struck thu surlmon u
mighty gar gulped ft dust it This fish fouiht I nil I
over thu ba > ou and alter bulng ilraggitl alutrd
managed to catch hut itithuiu of sine of ho fisher
men In his jaws and bito It very set eic >
Dm gee pikes one this ugliest lUh in thu
wliolo rtoutli nut excepting uhurks nnd will
attack anything In sight Thu big steel books
used by lie nnhermen were repeat id h > broken
bycscupiuggurs nnd lime t I nnd ngum Ihellisra I
wero bitten In I two I The two angler brought lu
nine gars altogether und ft negro wn > hired to
cart them Into I town to the hotel whero thuv t
are now on exhibition Tho total weight of h lie
lot Is 7IK pouuds The biggest guru 0 feet 7
Inches long
One good remit of the purl will bo to ilv
other lUh a chiinco to live The utica kill oil the
black bass locally known ns trout ctuppk
groupers und perch und hrretoforu haute never
Wen checked In their work of extermination
Ibeynre not vriy uiuul cooked except when
baked In plantation style If couted with black i
creek mud nnd wrapped in green hesves unit I
then laid between rcdhot stones they lose thflr
troiv rank flavor anti properly seasoned make
a acttciouj dials L
A itnvatr irtin inn annia
A Slorr of lbs Aliened fnnmttmU of iii >
nulfnr fulirornln
Ive read something lately In the newspapers
about tho Sert Indians 1 down In the Gulf of Cali I
fornia snld Art Trertwlll the proprietor of
it saloon nt Io Tcjoncs lie Is vliltlng Now
York and was talking nlth some Western
acquaintance In tho barroom of nn uptown
hotel last evening They picked up is parly
of American voyagers Inn year It seems
at Tlbnroii Island iitul killed nnd ate two
of them I run across thuso Indlaiu once and
le been mighty willing sinei > then to gIve them
n wide berth How did It eemio about Wall
its something of a story but If youegot the
tlmu to hear It Itll hoar telling
It wns flvo years high Hint these Indians
came over to tho mainland mid cut up n good
denl of mischief around tho ranches Thuli
home Is on Tibti run Island three I hundred miles
or so south of Yiima nnd I believe they chaIns n
strip on the fconorn mainland They aro ennui
bnl and nil around arc thu fiercest and mean
cst Indians that Ive ever heard of
H was In tim same year In September thirst I
found mytclf stranded In Yuma with no money
mid mUhly poor prospo l Hwas holler than
the tropics in the town my landlord was getting
milky and uoinpluliud of slow returns from
boarder and for Inch of other means of getting
out of tInt country I was beginning to think thai
I should hat e to bent my way on the freight
train to Snn Francisco when I fell In I with
John Ifmwyn Hu was nn Englishman who
hud buLn a sailor anti somehow had drifted to
Yuma Even tliero he couldnt keep nwny
from thn water and ho had got hold
of an old lnmt that had been l a tender
to n river steamer nnd that no ono laid
claim to Ho had calked her rigged n keel bet
up n mast built n little cabin amidships nnd
wns getting ready to make ft voyage of discovery
down the its cr Wo struck up an acquaintance
1 helped him about his work and ho Invited mo
to go with him down Into the Crcopah country
I had Just j than struck Iho proruisu of employ
ment lo Login thin MM of Novcmher but I
Hkreed to go along with him If I hu would provide
m n gun hunt niu i In I grub and ammunition nnd
get mu tack to Yuma In n munth
MI ho got mo an old u I I mu cluvllnir smooth
bore army musket he had for hlmsulf u line
Engllhiiindcsporting gunmid ono duty neir
I lieu Iliil ot Ki ptcmber wu hoisted our sail mtu mule
iroin a wagon cmer ii hit started out For sup
plies wv bad flour ct lIce sugar baking i powder
tOOl suit enough to last lisa month with plenty
of ammunition his e dollars in silver and u
quart nnd n half of whiskey contributed ns a
uuiid luck oCurlng by two saloon keepers with
whom wu had tinnsieted business li the past
when thiius wet llusher with us
What could two men want more for n
inonthh vovagi i Uind nnd current took us
ilown across thu Mexiian bonier Into this Co
cupiih country and there wo drifted und wan
dered about as happy its you please for u matter
of ten or luelvu day Alter tim heat of Yuma
the rod melt Lrtezi at the rivers mouth was de
lightful nnd wo had a picnic tlmo running In I
and out of tho I coves and lugoins in I the Cocopah
cuumrv shoiting ducks among the nerds
ntil qttnil and rahblu on that land We saw tIm
vilcauo mountain timid the hut springs and
wu lound the Cocopah a people much lIke our
tiuui i nu inn j very iriunciiy unu no puaoie
W u couldnt quite go their bread uiado pound
ed mesiultu beans mud wo could have got ulong
contentedly with fewer mosquitoes but we hIved
high on quail und duck and itch from the river
nnd had barrels of fun in capturing them Al
nlihl we anchored the boat out on the open
water and slept aboard so tim mosquitoes dult
trouble us much except when the wind wan still
Alter about u fortnight of this working
down the river all the time we Taunt ourselves
fairly > out upon the California Gulf and then
lomwyn proposed that we coast down the
bonura bboro und taLe a look at the 1upngo
country That united me and wo sailed south
ward making short runs from headland to
headland sometimes landing and always an
choring by shore at ulglit lomwyn was a good
deal in nn explorer an invfiitlvo genIus In his
wa > and what you might call n man of resource
for us tiip of thl kind Vo found oysters In some
ot the nuns which wo worked out of their beds
with a wooden rake thai he made and wo could
dig clams from the beaches almost anywhere
which were great luxuries to UH after thu bacon
tough beef nnd canned goods of Yuma Wu
fell la with tlio Pupairo Indians once or twice
anti traded n llttlo with them und one of them
u boy called loe t who bad lived among the
whites antI knew some Amuricnnu we took
along with us ns helper coil interpreter Tho
weainer kept line nnd wo worked further nnd
further south until Jose one day pointing to nn
inland peak said
iapagu country end there
Wensked him what lay beyond
Nothing ho said Just onora i thats nil
Then ho pointed down the Gui and said SemIs
live there No good Heap bad Indians
The country looked lone and desolate enough
with Its half tropical wilderness along the low
shore llnu and barren mountainc behind but wo
Kept on to the souti wishing to see n little more
of It AH wu had no log wo may have made a
longer run that day than we reckoned on At
any rate the Pnpago boy began to gel uneasy
talked a good dual of the Serls Indians and
wanted to turn back I myself didnt much like
the Idea of venturing very near these Island
snvnges who ho said were cannibals that went
naked except for pelican skins about their loins
w eru n heap big had no bouses except cares
and shelving rocKs nnd could outrun deer nnd
rnbbits Loinwyn who was a man who would
S en turu nny wberu laughed nt the Idea of danger
to us and Insisted on keeping our course down
the coast the rest of the day agreeing that on
the next munilng we should take the back track
We rail in shore that night at about S i oclock on
n bench sheltered by n high point of land just
below it which limits out Into the bun so that It
broke Iho force of this rollers coming in when
the wind was high I from thu south
After benching the boat wu climbed the high
point to suIte a look mound Far off to thiS
south hull down we could see land out In t the
itilf which lo e said was Tlburou Id shot a
heron during the mItts ant this with roasted
clams lich dug from the stand bread and
collve made our ppir which wn cooked and
ate ashore Hy thnt time darkness had fallen
and the moon was not up The beach which
was In the tiirm of a semicIrcle wns about 100
feut long by 175 oi 00 feet deep and was bor
dered by > tints woods mind undergrowth which
stretched back to the foot of tIn mountains As
we sat on this rand imoking our liftersupper
pipes the question wns debated whether wo
should sleep In I the boat at anchor or camp on
tItus bench which we preferred doing If It trees
safe Wo decided to take the rilc of sleeping
ashore In spite of the t nearness of Tlburon
Velind beached tha boat on a rising tldo
and now at the bnglnnlng of the ebb she was
atloHt held to thn beach by the mope and henvy
titus that served us for cable and anchor
lomwyn arose nud went to tIm waters edge to
see if she needed more ropo to keep her from
grounding nnd I followed him intending lo gel
our blankets from tho caoin Tho full moon
> aspoepliignx > vo Iho black mountains to the
uist nnd I paused n momcnt to ace It show its
Ince It earn Into full view lighting up tho
white sand iHitch antI tbo water almost as
brightly as day I didnt take n second look for
its If the moonriso hud heun u signal lucre canto
fiom Iho t black woods about the bench thu
whistling of arrows and a hideous whooping and
jelling tho wor t sounds 1 hopo ever to hear
With tin tim rows anti outcry twenty dark naked
figures nil looking I like giants appeared fn m
thn brush running to close In upon us with Clue
tpeed of f ulcer
Mos Serls Los Serlsl yelled the Papago
as ho jumped and ran lo Join in
An iirnnv graed my arm and I saw two
shafts sticking Irom lomwynH back as wn
rushed through I tho water lo tItus boat threw off
the I anchor line h and shoved thu craft away from
tilL sluuuno Iis wo jumped aboard 1 wits first to
the cabin and i pasted his gnu to lomwyn as I
cnme out with mine Julckly as tills was dono
the Indians wero already at the waters edge
sumo llring nrnivs in they camo on others
brandishing clubs and spears oc wu faced them
with the 111111 Without hesitation thev tt irs
ibishlng through I thu t surf upon us IC tall I I Indian I
wlthnfuathJi In hIs hnlr leading them As
coolly and quickly ns hu would hnvo madn n
wing shut HI a pigeon lomwyn shot 5 him through
C lie body with Ihu bullet In I tils left luirrel until
gave tho chit rge of ii hick shot In thn right barrel
to the next one dropping bnth Indians into thus
uatfr 1 cniliht I Ihlee others I in u rttk t rig lire of
my big musket loaded with bird shot which
slopjicd them nod tutu utfeet of mil threo shots
was to check thu rush and keep the Indians
back at I ni < wrtors sulge There they shot
HITOW and Hiinithicw i clubs nt ns Two more
shots trim louwyns breechloader sent them t I
tinover t nil tinohb I tide I u slowly drc ts usoutof
the t lance of their nrrims
mu I t i itmmm m
Ktlrrlug far up thu gulf wi < hostcd tall amid
inide thu t mojt of It After we had put a wile or
I two between us nnd tho I shore nnd found that
t we were not follnw cd hy canoes wo took account
ul dntiiTei of I t the I t a o arrows in t Lomwyns
bri I tune iiad only stuck in thu cloihes between
bin arm antI Me thiiotner is mis fat Iii bin laud >
hum rib hail lint t in Hn I I forco so thnt It lund not
inuilo n mum ttittub woind Hy bis leiueii i
1 cut It I out with a pen knife h nnd lutmliigcil
the wound mo hit I could with Ihu t means nt
hand 1 hu nrrow heal lie put Into I his puckot
fornkcpiike My wound was only n scratch
that I needrd no rare Ihu Papago bad caught
mi arrow In I the fleshy pirt of tho Iblgh but
without uxylninrtythlnic l he had pushed t lie an
rnwrlwm through broken off Its I head and then
pullrd the hhnft out ifs tied a piece of C cloth
jibout lube hog and uiado no further fuss about
W r 5 did not make land again until we struck
t hum ha nigh uuutt ry Here i wo touched for wu
I IT until cnHSled huttic us wo had iome dropping
Josu a thn t i lilac wheru we took him mi Vsu
nit bal to the I I month of the Colorado lii ser In
timn I to mint th spring tides I whlh am bl
there I itch worked our way back up to ijiiia
vrnich wo reached just
thirtytwo days after
departure stun
from there
We
s a had seen come
stranto country nnd had had lots of tnoj sport
nil but our Kiut win the herl Indians Hike I
excitement but lie kind they furnish to
strangers suits ino llttlg too welt
i
LOIRS FINEUK I E I DANCK 1
i1zxq q rv 11 nit AttMX nAxxtua
J11lIus trim vir IzIji 7
Eleetrlo Itcht Hlienm Tlironah Iliis
Blum O cntitc Iii this Floor nf I lit MlnK
oiid with Olnrrdil Pnntut lnn Minn Fnllrr
ItenewH Her Trlnmplin Tim Mnelilurrr
I 1tttth I March fi Last night Iolo Fuller re
appeared liuforc n Paris audience In three nute
danccf which Iuromi let to eiuiso n repetition ni i
tlio tldo of enthusiasm which three years HIM
brought both Iolenml the KolleiUorgcrca Inn
high favor with the French public This tini
It I Is the C timcdleParlslennu which hopes to
Miaro In thin popularity > und profits of the Amur I
can dancer
rite story of tIm origin of tho new piece
Snlontf which serve us n setting for luiui
dancing Is rntlirr romantic When she tlrst
began her nerpentlne exoltttlons at Ito rollp
lierglres Arnmnrt Sylvrslro went to ecu her
Aimmd riylvcstro Is a poet who looks like tin
pletti irs of an A huh ermiuutuu In I a comic paper l Is
also writes very charming lIttle things hum tha
Paris Juiirnnls The mitt > after M Sylvosirc saw
Miss Fuller he wrote nn article dcvrlptlve of
t he delight he hml experienced ami In theronm
of thin article hitsnld
1 droiimod of Salome1 befnro Hcroil
An obliging friend forthwith carrIed tho paper
to Miss Fuller coil translated to her Ito words
of M Sylvostre whereupon la I Iolo said
And why rnnt 1 ho Snlom6 or whatever her
nami Is dancing before Herod t
Not hearing of any gwd reason why slit
nhouldnt Iolo Bet to wet k to read up the nub
feet and when she made that rather unsiic
ccssful trip to America almost two years ngn
she was fully primed on tho subject of Sallia
May nsho called the name In her Irreverent
moments She also carried a letter I of Intro I t
ductiim to Mr Mcluorwhum sherommlsMiinid
to write tho ceenarlo for n pantomime on tho
subject The work was not dune for some time
and finally I when the plein was finished and
sent to hur It S us wrlttun for n large theatre
and was thcrofure nniivallahlo for Use In sncli
houses as theCoroeilM Iarislenne I
Again the HIIIUI obliging friend made her op
peanuiro and Htiggcxled that Inasmuch as M I
Svlvcstlo had been the one to gist tint original
Impulse ft would 1m quItL tho appioprlatu thing
If lie were the on > to vosu lie tho piece Ah
Jiff n nilemlii ns lolo had liurnud to ray hy
that time U yylvestru wns consulted He wan
charmed Ho rewrote tho pleuu 31 inbriel
PlcrnC Mimpo u ed the music which I Ic I charming
And now alter a munth of rehearsals and de
lays I tie production has come nnd probably
the next thine will ha the iit I Ioln scarfs and tho
Lit Loir gnwiiH and so on nt It was before
little Fuller Is a dancer jes but clue owes her
great success to Kdison much to bur own clever
ness and Ingenuity Without tho t electric light
Iolo would never havo turned the heads of 1arl
theatregoer hut at the same time If she were
not clever enough to clTcot all manner of In
genious lietrothals ticiwieii the light and her
dancing the chances aie that we uould have
missed a great tint of tirntity In Salome she
has Intioducid an entirely different arrnngo
nient of lights and has drawn from this ar
rangement Homo wonderful results
I lie ttoorot thoMagecif theCom0dlc PnrIsienno
ban been cut so thit there are six large bolts
disposed In this manner
Front
1
4
flack
In these openings which are almost a yard
square arm inserted squares of heavy plain
glass upon which Iole can trend nnv measiru
Khe may feel Inclined to attempt The stag
Hour Is covered with a carpet which ImBopenlncs
to eorresimnd with tho tliiuroj ot hiss Under
each plato of class It I ii powerful electric llsht
It Is In tIde nrrantement that tile eliceess of tho
dance as a novelty lies
The piece Is a pantouilmo of a dignified ana
dramatic nature Herod wear nnd discon
tented is tittuct by Julio the Jmmlst who on
finding llerodlus there oonmnnds llerod to
send tho woman away and when hw will not
threatens him with the dlvlnn wrath Herod
lacking the couragn to dUmtss Herodias is yet
unreasonably angry with her and repulses her t
Herodlos then studIes how she may win him
bock and as she stands there lost In thought
her young daughter Salnm6 comes In liden with
flowers anti followed by her maids in waiting In I
this tableau as tho different scenes are ctilltd
Miss KulltTs dress in of the most diaphanous
material blue with silver trimmings 0mw cit
ee her figure through the gauze lutono can in
two of her other dreiief hut In this scene tIe
does not dance Her mother however seeing
her daughters beauty and Loio is really beau
tiful in her role of the voung Salome fommatuls
live to ilutmice befr > re Hcnxl hoping thus to win
him from Chit mood In which John the Hoplit
has left him
In the next tableau Herod Is seated on aralfd
platform with several athletic negroes motion
less behind him when Salom6 comes In She is
dressed in black gauzeflashing vith irridescen
spangles and holds in each hand a soft muss of
black gauze who o ruffled edges mire Mrlpnl
with silver Salome kneels before Herod then
rises and beglnn to dance It Is Impossible to
descrlbfl the cllect whlvli Is prmluced as Bin
circle from one stream of light to another mine
does not realize that the lIghts aro there when
middenly her gauzo draperies lame with n violet
or rose or green incandescence Her verv body
the outlines of which are plaInly visible through
her draperies scents to glow with light Souse
times she stop Just short of onu of thin jet of
light and holdltsg tho two Rcarfs as she rails
them over the light shakes them up and dova
until they seem fi be fonmlng with light and
color Thin uVct ID I murvellously Ixatitlfnl
In the second danco bile wears a Mmiiar cos
tume of gauze of n color between orango aul
red She has a long broad piece of the nnio
ntufr erhaps three yards long and two yuriU
broad with which she tumptx still other rlfecM
from thins streams of colored lights She hills
this pIece utilte mititsunemitly waving It In a beg >
undulation high 1 before her then t loo enluz tur
hold and running forward beneath It and rstu n 1
Ing the other end and soon back and forth over
lie Mage When it waves thus over the Uhts
which tune nil red or yellow in this seethe 11 li
like a living Hume and ttho herself teems hIke a
goddess of fire
Tho third dance is less attractive She wesri
a white I shimmering relic in this t one Itlcnut I
no diaphanous but takes hwntlfnl I lights Th I
dance Is huppo ed to he tragic ISON over nmst ii
not sogracelul nor RO fullof wondertul elire
Ktillit seems to hnvo n great ellect on Hirod I I
who Is all over his lit of the blues by tlls tussi
Thin Scriptural account is I now reverted nnl
Herod 1 overcome by hU I passion for SalmuA
seizes her In I his arms John 1 the Haplln C in
has been an apparently intereMcd If Inioi
uruous spectator of I thi I I > dancing I intir i
feres to protc t Salom6 whereupon llornl
orders two of the negroes to lake Jtm
away Salome however Hill repulse h m
nnd tries to follow the iirophet BO llerod it h
Is a nisri of nrtlondiMmtrhe the other negrn to I
ctit oIl the pnipheth head and accompanied 1f
the flislu of lightning and tile rued In of ilrii
slur the Ethiopian draws a very bright xwnril
a nil goes out t llu I returns holding uiiihepD
head which is I remarkably well done also lbs >
curtain falls The piece while well conceived nil
executed he l however entirely secondary 101 0
dances and It Is to seu tile American girl danrn
that peoplf go to set It and not to thnk t of
Hoi I I ad or his I Intrigue I
I
ITTLE
IV
PILLS
K HEAM
PoKitiviIy ftirril Tiy theso
Ilttlo iills
They also relieve Ifctrrsbfrum I Jtyirr h
Incligcstum and Too Hearty 2 tatiiv v
feet icrrc ly I fir lztnct Nau i I
ulesti Hail1aitiin th Mouth I 11 1 1
Pain In the Stilt TOklll I P I 1 K 1 7
Regulatethe hunt cli Vtircly >
Small Pill Small Doso
8nvl Price

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