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The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, March 19, 1899, 3, Image 26

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r iMllY ' -- THE-SUNf. SUNDAY, MARCH -19, -1809. - ' . f
Hi) 'ill - ' ' I i I i i I;
!'" MODES MOM Till PAST.
j f J; Pretty Ideas in Spring Gowns
Kt 1 Just from Paris.
fi I SILKS AND THIN FABRICS,
(Ejij I ' No End to the Variety of the Trim-
1 ! I j$ mines on the New Costumes.
' i;!
! ' r H Tim Extrrmc IXeMn-Flttlns Skirt Not Ap-
t i '
. j . i. jironil l)j I ho Well-Otraaed French
I J -. f. Uanmii rmlilonn of Our Urnntlmotheri
1 ; ' VI.' ComlriB llnrk In Much of Thrlr Original
iff. (Jtinlntneea Comhlnntlom of Inci ad
i' ?' )Vi 8I1U-Attrcllvr IiiiilnrilSklrtTHtuined
I ,,J A with Buflle.-A Nvi Ilolero Kflect-rte-
i , !,''j flvnl of Cnnhnierr Iruportiinoe of a
7) i j1 ' $ Good Tnllor-Mnde Irr-Vnrlom Notei.
. ) I i
i 1 ' B Bomo oao has said that l'aelilon Is ono of the
i S ' lJB most potent ami convincing rulors of Iho
I ' I I Ifi world, and certnlnly It can hold up Its charm-
1 I J I ffi Inn head with any of tho ether great covernora
1 1 i , ji In point of absolute rowor and tho slavish ohc
I ., L a dlence of Its followem to its ovor-vaelllatlnB
I j I fi , b laws. Surely it has n prominent Position In
I l I ill I i'K Farls, tho hub of all thlntrs fashlonable.nround
I i ' l' i'ift whloh all dootcos of the modes hot or like
! ll'j I ' S? moths around n Hame. " h 1 1 o Ixindon and
B ' i I i It Vienna may orlclnnto somu eommendablo
I I r!i itf styles, Vatis in tho Mecca to which tho ptl-
h I w grim of fashion wander, not once in a life-
a' i I time, but tvtleen er. In search of thoconsola-
' I! I S tlon prettr things In dress e.in olTor. It is ths
I I t n Parisian who exeeli In taste, chic and all
I ' 3l ' ' H 'nc '"b6, tellliiB effects which can be pro
Li "si ' 'fl duced In woman's dress: so we must continue
I M ' I'll ow our nea8 to "' recognized leader.
I I IP' fc-hiJE ' InBy ue cnmfortlnis to somo women to
I 1 w 'f know that tho extroino oelsltlii-fltthiB skirt U
j llj '2 not considered good st)le by tho well-dressed
' L ii'Ia
' J i II French woman. While her skirt Is well and
I 'ill I'm closolj flttoil aroiinil the hips, the advantage of
' ' 1 ' iiil Braceful lines is not Ignored. Tho skirt (lures
H '" ''I 8 out prettily from a llttlo vvny below tho waist
B ' I I I Hne, Instead of clinuliiK closely to tho knee
H I 1 II ' V This proesnBnln that It is noM'r the extreme
K j! H 'i) In any fashion which Is must desirable or le
H j ' ' oomlnir. It Is reported that tho latest skirts
' I' ." 'i aronll llneil tliiotiulioiit uithllinho'test talTeta.
H I 3 j i'j.i Instead of beitig made with thesei intolin
H ' if ' ,) lngs so Bninllj nmd now Jlut this Is tho
I v' i fj mode forelotli intliei than thin gowns Sn far
LB '' ill '"Hll'on '' ' fagoted us with new models In
LB f J l thin materials, tho si urate foundation skut
LB i IB still prevail-
LB f P ! Toulards and other thin fabrics are made
B Ijjj i th , with tho pointedoerlres-Hliiplugiiultn up to
LB W J fill tho waist at the side. ind rouiidlni; down again
LB 'sjjj Mi In tho back l'hls is cored tu tit thn hips tiei-
LB if ' fSl leetly, flaring i nnugh to fa I raee(ull into the
LB If ' W- fulness ef the skirt I -low 1 unlcbaud skills
LB II H 53)1 nd coats and sklits seem 'o t lu a largo part
bLt I lK fl fcl ' In the spring fashlnna, ami the olil-tlme I)l"ee-
K 'Sllfl' tolro modes are icitnln In the lniiedlate
K 'Knl l futuro unless the tide eliaugi s m i mittrially,
B ibIII 11 T'10 faB'1'0"'1 "' our er uiilmotliHis - Lit nt ly
bB Kill 13 are coming back to u In mneb of theli orlgt-
B 1 Will is ' nal nuulntuess, If not in liter il di taM '1 ho
LftB i III ii; Marie Antoinette ilehus atpen on s une of
LftB ' n III N the Indln mull anil oigandle gowns, hut theso
H i M III FS I bob upoery spilng tniong this class of cos-
B ' F Hi I'll ! tumes and quite as suddeiih vanish as they
B 3 111 l.'S? are becoming to ei) fen men
B oiSIrI' AVhatoei else mav In said of the fashions
H. rltlHi this season there Is ii 1 1 iok of ant One of
J Rill aS 1 the now models In ! mlaid Ins a -'.nt tltiely
will vn tucked lengthw isi a' irouml tin hips to within
HH IS'1 ton or twelve Inches of the Imttoiu I'l iiu silk
LB.i Hit HI fheomblned uitli the llgure I heiiaul in uiim
LkBt II f of the new gnu rs, arranged In two , thiee
LbB Lfh ill knlfo plaiteil Millies at ttie hottoai n' the skirt.
BLfl ml Ui Atinv ii-eedL'ilr h, r silk lllii-hes I lies,.,
bLB 111 ft ""'' """ ''"' i Hess of ilgup d ' ill t r 1
bLB Ii r"" '"' ''"' "' K,nl",1H "r 1" Hi's while it
HK 111 I Hi fa.lb on il.u mli.o, and tt n.i.Kd with
bHL III !' I
HB I
bLH m 11
ffflajti fl.
a niching. The plain and figured silks
are both used in the bodice, which may
be In bolero form, or what Is callod a
draped bodice, the lattor being set forth as a
cry popular stylo. Tho usual yoko of heavy
lace appears In this model, and the silk In
front is drnped aoros from one si am, under
the arm, to the other. Another prettj bodko
for foulard, organdie or any thin material is
a simple Spcncfr waist tucked across the
shoulders In front to givo n little fullne-sover
tho bust, and trimmed with cream or black laco
Insertion set in from tlio neck to the belt In a
soit of Grecian p it tt. t n. hack and front aliko.
Applhiuo Insertions of Waek Chantllly In de
cided flowers or leaves aro a new feature In
the trimming of foulard gowns Heavy cream
luce mi) bo used for the voko, and tho black
Chantilu nppllid to the silk will form the fin
lsh If tho skirt Is trimmed with rufllos to tho
knee, as someof them are, a band ol this Chan-
tlllv Insertion makes a prelty heading. 1'sed
In wide M-rtieai I mils on cither sldo of the
front, the ends falling over the narron ruflles
at tho bottom, the , ITeet Is er goml In
crust itloiis of Honors In any desired form will
be very much usid for tilmmliic summer
gowns.
The foreign f islii in hinlgcta toll us of fou
lard skirts trlnimo I with manv n mow ruffles
put on In the nmn of a iiolon use, and ngaln of
the plain skirt, which is the favorite model In
l'arls This is shown in the llrst model illus
trated, where little rovers tuui naek on either
sldo of tho front at thn feet and rows of stitch
ing are thellnish It opens on the lelt hide
under an overlapping stlti hod plot e, and the
centre hrea Ith down the I a k Is cut without
auv seam No doubt this Is more especially
foreloth and wool gowns, n tliere Is so much
In evidence to give the trimmed hklrt the pref
erence for all other materials
An ve bo'o lelTeet foi thin gowns Is mado
rf heiivj I ue edge I with einbioi lered Inn Is
of sath . The j n ket I 'gins nt the nrmhole,
uist ab ivo the I ust a id ti nils sti jlght out
both back and fr nit to within 'wo Inch-sof tho
lentre, leaving a fjur-lneh sinee, nnd rounds
down under ih .tin to an Inch 'ilwive the bdt.
1 be effect Is . h uiiiiiu on a sk n lor woman V
noveliv in dress , tlin mi i on worn liketho
I lis,, with -e.irile knts It Is mnde of
guuuie laea mil sit n. mil ether I ' or
-Inn t as u fun ) The 1. ugeoat withroiin led
fionts is tcrv st lish i a tall w unnu. and it I
usually telieved I v a e nitrastlng vt of i U
red pauin or nh.te talTeln hoaltered over with
Mowers short laee eont Is shown in one ol
the illustrations and vvornovern skirt of white
(.lothof vei liglit weight. Uircetolrc coats of
IggBSBBBVBJBVBBMBVHBBBBBBVBBVBJBUBBVBaBVSBfB
colored cloth, worn with white cloth skirts, are
ono of tho latest l'arlslnii ag iries
Tashlon conies back again from tho past In
the revlwl of cashmores. which will be very
popular this season. All tho new cloths nreso
soft and pliable, so light In weight, that they
are ory much like the cashmeres, howevor.
Tholatost variety of cloth Is pastellc. with a
smooth, velvety flnUli Indian cashmeres will
be worn, and there aro pretty soft silks for
blouso waists In tho sott cashmere colors with
figured stripes. Perforated cloths mado up
over a color are used for tho entire jacket and
possibly halt of the skirt, with l tin cloth to
combination, and perfunted effects In trlm
mlngare hugely in evidence among tho new
cloth gowns.
Cloth dresses made fanciful In somo way aro
quite n featuro of fashion, but for those who
cannot afford ninny gowns tho plainer coit and
skirt costume mnde by a Hi st-i lass tailor Is tho
thing to havo, In fact, there is no costume
which can compare with it for gonornl useful
ness the veirthiough, and especially for the
woman who wants to dress stvlisil on a small
allowance bho can nffoid to spend at least
Iff (j-f-?' v.
one-third of her veirly stipend on this gown
rather than dribble It anav on two or thiee
cheap ones This I- the found itlon for nny
woll-ehosHii wardrobe nnd putl'ulii!) for the
woman of limited means '1 ho fashion for
shirt waists and finev silk hlousi-, which like
tliehiook seems to gi on fori ver. gives an op
portiinltj for gri nt vailety in this one i ostuiue
Women who i in hive inv numbei of I
gowns can afford to t i rlmcnt withchoip
tailors, but the one with the sm ill dn ss allow
ance must sic ih it ,.ic in ik - no mistake in
tills one gown With a lallot gown one well
made Chinn silk, medium lit coloring some '
prolt wal-ts, tw i pnpii sulls and one or two
organdies foi evening a voung Inly cm make
nv.tr good appenraiKO ail -uinuo i Ad 1 to
this outfit a dressy ginn I black net audtlie
young niattou is supi he with all tho m cessu
ries for a slyl sh siiniai i nardiohe
1 here aie I o lido pr Mv Inexpensive nov
elties In matciia s for suiiuuer gowns, one of
which Is a sort i i moussclint vvith olka dotsof
Ihesamotoloi Itiun sinii.lt) light shades,
U recommended us unm ni ibl tlianin
gnndle foi wear at the m islmio and eo-ts .')
cents a j ird 1 hie l'rench dial I -s make stvl
Ish. Inexpensive and im ible gowns, and
tliere is no end lo the nr v in the Hue of
goods ea'lcil bills!,, the t Itn st of vv hich Is
the b.itst. oi co know n a- I in ai pie g ni7o
hiinglol nets nio in i opular thin over
foi the black e enlng gmn and one of the
latest novt Dies In tit s untei al is Milled with
generous liiorustntloi - f cii am hce, hi twien
vtlileh the si angles at sewn om il sel),ov"i
hipping one n not In r like llsh kc.i'ph 111 el;
IlrusHO s net, aecordi n llaited, tilinmctl on
the bkirt with lands rf jei nuaiisCd In deep
jHiilils nil until oil wi h I leuiliaei bulero
nvertlie pintle I u t wast Is a charming cos
lumi Tin v irit t in let and colored bend em
bioideryls beoudUescri tion thiebiabon.aud
something entirely nen for tlecoratlve uses Is
the embroidery of wool anil silk dono on
Liberty satin and soft wool mstsrlnU Largo
flow ors arc used In the designs, but for ests,
rovers and yokes tho I'onn ndour embroidery
! the f isbion ible thing. There are other em
broldones for tills purio-e, to5, wlilch aro a
harmonious combination ol miny soft faJod
colors in silk.
A model for silk or itin flood cloth, shown
In the Illustration, lias a trimming of black
velvet ribbon, a low ross drtped bo llco inula
novel reveis c ill ir of white silk cut out in
roiuts over blien volvi t outlined with gold
cord A piettj design lor i r pe tie chine, I.lb
etlv gaiio. or silk mil guipure laco shows
slcovis and )ok of line Fp.tted silk muslin
tucked, nnd tmiitmisu velvet rovers Ono
of the new gny ci-hmere gowns Is the
next model, m nle wltli a vtst and undci
panel on the sklit of idl pmne Sitin
liinds and (lutitilly laee tiim nnothor
cashmere gown m i 'o with a tunic nnd
bolero n appli'iuc trimming of panne
and chenille is the feature of ono costume,
heading the clicul ir lloiim es at tlu bick Tho
bodko is of tho pmne. -tu blctl with jt t
pilllittos nnd trimmed with a leif design In
blick chenille v ptettv mubl for foulard,
taffeta mous-ellne, cp pe do dune or cmvns
showsnn elnl onto iwe if wide Inn Insertion
and edging for the finish on the w list A com
bination of peifiiratcd and plain cloth foi an
stitl another govt u
Tin: mu srurti muv.
.Innntv I lit If ('apt h nt silk, I nco nnd Until,
Ml I'm Itilv liluiini d.
The new spring vv ips ire cipes Invirylng
h nUlis lietwi en me limn slmr' and vi i j sin it,
lougi rdolm in slnpe- fiirnimeii pist middle
ago, and loits r f all -oils nnd kinds '1 he capo
milling to the f'loivs I- the iiuntiest Utile
g irineiit foi -uiiiiie r use, when i o it will not
answer the puto-e and it i-vanou-tlt mndt)
of talTi ta sdk. in ur -itin. 'ind nun t vel
vi t In i do gi it or - n brighter i ol n and
ehboraltlv tilnime I nlili ruolie-eded 1 1 lited
frills of 1 lack ilniTiii. c Ii mtlllv lice nnd ji t
i'he enllars of all th ' ipes are high. 11m d in
side Willi slum d i hllTon. I lli'it) silk. I ice or
silk, and llnisho I in fi nt with bow and -cirt
t mis of pi uti d i hllTon
(liietif tliepr ttv novi Itie-among thelmpoit
od models 1- m 1 1 ofpilegnv t uToti shlricl
nround on large iris Ii IH th- sh hi! lots
elosi y, as sh mn ill the lllu-tr itnm, and tlu-l-hed
with api utmg of gr it chill on edged with
atilihe '1 lie ii p rp'Utiono' sdiiiiiiifilio cipes
is sometimes cov ml wllh a netnoik of jot,
which Is vet v etrei tlv envoi i col ir. and ohllTin
frills oi Cliantill) hce full- oi both, fall below
till". Ono little m le in the shawl sh ipe,
pointing down In the b ick, i of jolted not over
rich mirolrvolvit and llnished all around tho
edge with a plim net plaiting, in turn edged
with a I tube, which seems lo bo the universal
finish
'laffetn silk cipes gored an 1 gathered nround
the slioul.leis urn nuotlii I stvlo made with
longstoloi lids ( oIok d pe ill do s ne, i spool illy
In tho shndf -oft in. Is anotlict iintcrl il which
ntl e irs In cities, and cioim I no fiills are tho
trim m lug. one deep one. is rhap". with a lie til
ing in ido byshiirlng the line Into a narrow
pulT. siipp'eiiiente I li a ban I of nppll.iud
hoc Whatever the h ngthof the i aie mnv tie,
it rounds up In fionl, and in manv Instnueis
rntniiids von of tin cipes worn voars ago
'I he ilolmnn I-1 1 te again and another gir
ini nt of silk, panne and lice, which Ins tho
ni pea I am o of a latlior long siioiiun, orn short
sn spier ilher, Willi deep I ice llouncosand dis
till tsleevis l'llogm inolr.' Is a very prott)
foundatl u foiacaio with I lack trimmings
sliiwl cine shnnn in tli- ill'isti itiun Is a
cum In liatii ii or I.I ii k vi Iv. I. white s ttlu, white
gl i silk mil bl e k chiffon 1 he vi Ivct, em
bmldi ri il wiih luiiol-e -led nil I jet forms
the hi i or I ill cut itv iv lieie and there to
showlhr vvhlti sum underm ith t inssi d I n
lietvv jrk of steel In ail- l niuee of white
glaeo. covero I bv another of bl n k i hllTon falls
from the velvet I h si art m fionl Is of vvhlto
ihHTou v. ih .1 with I 'ail
The vine tt i'i i ipi s is not conllneil to silk
and la' i . Iiovvi 1 1, ( i thcie i. eveiv kind in
c 'lined i lab vv lil h i in b mi igined 'lau
an' kiai ate ii"li'lv gnu' itvle, while
en tin nidi mil tel ir- lothw nlul'trls
Knvvs o' stitihing -uti heil hinlr, of cloth,
sum bands nnd 1 latding ue 1 1 - modes of
tiiinming ' I' th a . - I In pn v iliuik motel
1- -liort. I ill u j I, lilll' Icon tin waist line,
itiul cut with a -i ml elr ulai lloiin on the
b at in lu on mo !' I ol t in this II mine is
niitiu 11 ohm ii l tt ith a si rt of vcnnl fill nt
tcrn in cr, am silk I nnd 'I he liirli collars ate
lined tvl'h vi Iv. t ipd irimpn 1 iii-li'e vv til lace
Mioul.Ki pi I. mi"-, von shut and 'atieiiul,
n nlo of h.fli u sluiit I ii 1 pi i it I oi of lace
null t at vii litre live iinv lllcs Inn tin ii
mi - n - n i in f ii- fi In -- Th' v aro
Vi i j i t j an I i ot v 1 1 n-ivi if v u make
tin in at In iin out ol I in k i ilnt d e- nt
Nursing Mothers '
can Uoop up their health - '
nnd strength by iT?nl
M J TiJFEED THE BLOOD"
IPFABLETS
They feod tho blood with Iron, Im
I prove the appetite, and a d dlges-
ilon They Impart nutrition and
i strength to mothernnd child,
I tO tatlelt is (1 tx .VM tj o'rfruujjilfj.
H O.VT.V TlIK WOULD OVEII.
High heels arc nnnomicod from London.
According to tho report, they nre In demand
foi "Indies moving lu tho highest circles of
socictv " As the heuls aro from Ill toil Inches
In height, there can bo no n jestion as to tho
elevated position of those who wear them.
flreeco has been basking In tho presence of
gonluses of late I'.leonora Uiise has given
sovernl plat sin Athens, the Interest of tho oc
casion being increased by the presence of
0ahrlolod'nnun7lo. tho novelist. K'Annun
zlo Is nn onthuslastle nduilrer of I)use. whom
ho calls " Lleouora of the beautiful hands "
Tho glrU of Tretorln, Fouth Africa, htivo
been Invite I to compote for an nppolntment
worth $I,()lX)a year The post Is that of pro
fessor of mining In tho Btito Girls' School
Tho f ict thnt a woman Is to nil such a place Is
remnrkahlc. but no more so than the met that
tlieic slioiild lie any piofcssorof mining lu u
girls' school anyway.
Another London club for women hns a smok
ing room for Its members. The Pioneer Club
was literally the plonoer In this direction, nnd
when it opened Us smoking room seven or I
eight voars ago the foundations of socictv
trembled. Otln r women's clubs have followed I
that examp'e. however, until now when the I
latest one, the Writers' ( lub, does so there Is
practical! no comment at all
Mm" Ilostand, wlfoof the author of Cyrano
de Uergerie, h is a gilt of her own for writing
versos Not long ago some of them were re
cited b Si rah llernliarilt at one of the mati
nees which Pails journals uollght to give,
link Mine Itostuid' Iloriih irdt s voice isof
gild Ir she but roatl n tlmo tabic, it would
s jiind like a poem
Adelinn Pattl has been spending her honey
moon In Home Last ear. nt this time, she
was putting In a season of mourning for the
late Nicollnl 1 ho mourning was done at Sin
Jtotno, where she ami hoi tln t hlhuahua dog.
both smothoieil In en pe, wore conspicuous
features of the bright Italian landscape Tlinso
who have soon her till- voir, driving on tho
Pineio. waiing ' a lovelv pink to'iue" and
eiroing "a coiuottish vvhlto Pirisol ' say
th it hone) mooning becomes her iiilinltoly
belter than mourning.
Tho rojal pancakes for Queen Victoria's
tnblo nre m tde ns follows "To e.ich egg allow
one tiunee of linn, half a gill of milk ami one-
eighth of n siltspooiiful rf salt. W'hlsk them
will In a has n, letting tho whole Into a per-
fictl) smooth batter, which, when readv for
frring. should be like thick cream Cover the
i pan thin! with hum i Orate a little ii mon
riiul ovei tht i akes and -end silted siuartuid
1 cut lemon to the tiblo with them ' 'I lie
1 voungor nn ml ers o' the fimlly havo currants
and sultanas in then V intake-.
It must bo n great blow to thn feminine ad
min is of I ord Klti honor to lo trn th it he h is a
gli-seje ,- ( imbrldge phutogripher is slid
t Ii ive undi thlsiliscover from tho peculiar
rel'ci live powers of tho nitlflelal o tie If Lord
Kitchener Ins so rem irkable 1 "store eve"
that It n tnalncd for n pin tngmpher to discover
that It n is lit t rt al, there will lie a th miiiiil for
the a Idles" uf tlieoi tli I in who furnished it or
f irn e nirse of iiistrin Hon frvm Lortl Kltoheiifr
on the piopor wu of managing one
The latest propo-al in regard to dining room
eh urs is full of Inten sting possll llitics The
Ide t is to ipp!) to tin so clialrs tile prim iple uf
tho pneumatic tire, l.efoiea long dinner tho
si it of i.iih cli ilr will bopumied up and the
hapin guests will lluMi the most rotraoted
se-ion In comfort 'I h it Is the theor, of
eoui-o Whether tho nrietice w III bear It out
n ' ineeiii pni hev 1 amlllos incluillngmnnli
bovs would do well to ptoceo 1 cmtlously A
judicious distribution of lacks would make the
silting down of n dinner part like a volley of
muskotiy
Women complain a good tloil about the
egotism nnd rudeness of oung men. but tho
fnts piove thnt the men lire scarcely to bo
bl lined foi ih"lr altitude Hoslnsses.nagorfor
a good mas. uiliin showing nt their sn'lal
fun tions, ask men without making an at
tempt to sntlsf theinsolvi s ns to their pro
posed guest's dcsiiabllit An l'ligllshmnn
comments rather sharply on this custom of
I ondon ho-tiss "W" mien. 'he save, "take
the manners nt of the men they criticise s
fir social negligence, list season I received
more than n dozen cards for tlnncos fioin
hostossis wliom I tli I not know nnd who did
not know nn1 If women allow shods of ounc
men whom thortlo not know to be Invited to
their houses thej mii-t expoi ts h lal contraven
tions cqu il1 grcnt In return "
Louis Wain. the fimouscit pnlntoi. professes
to believe that a eat owned by a vvomnii is tlio
mil lor of its mistress's tempei uncut He sivs
th it If a oat tint Ins boon constantly vvith Its
mistress Is siuldeiilv removed from her society,
the cieature will show the characteristics mn
tlatne hasdipliied, If she has been snappish,
puss will siratch; If sh has beensiilkv, pussy
will sulk, too If this were renll tine. It would
piv a prospect Ivo husband tosti al the v it of his
I, nl love before taking the fatal matrimonlil
step As thecal is about the most Independent
creatur' alive, one cant help ! in if skeptical
of Air Wuin's theory
Doroth Drow. the llttlo ginndilaiighter of
Mi filadstoiie, has boon to eill on Queen Vic
toria Mm sis that the Queen "was nist
another woman like grandmamma, with a
white capon her ho id She put on Imrglussos
and told me to go to the other side of the
u mi so tint she could see me bettor " 'I Im
Queen pn senteil n diamond brooch to her little
visitor, who coiiitislod and kissed tint roval
hind Not iiniiatiirall, .Miss Dorothy liter
toil tied that the Queen was very nice mid
kind and likable.
Th" 1'iiehelnr Oirls' ssociatlon of Michigan
Is blanching out I hlsaiiti-matnuiolilal o 'lu
pus Is reu hlng out for the Mates of Indium,
Illinois Ohio Wisconsin, Missouri. Poiiti')lvn
ilia and New oil, '1 ho a-oeiatloii is nut
bothering Willi New 1 ng ind vvhoio there Is
imt the slightest iliflb ultv lu r straining the
li lullillie population, elllier lllnlei oi ov i ill,
tioiu i oiii'inttlng matriiiiou 'I Ii!- iio-tpone-un
lit of maul n;e till till- ign Is the ittovtod I
ol jeet of the fd iitted g.rl b ichi'lors, vvliii bind I
theinsclvcs with p ilite onus tu put off ( lipid
unt I the attain their thirtieth eir liny I
thltik that tli uiilvei-al a lontiou i f su Ii i
ci.i.iii atiiig mcthoils noiiid be a tit nthl low to
the divorce evil
rit -eight women hive leeched tlio onus ' f
the 1 n in h Legi jii of II umr sue e Its fouinla- '
t mn m lxi U Nnpto them h ive been soldiers
Tliere were 'v.irgiiilc Cihos initre. org. mt ill
the Ivvotil sevtnth llegiuieut of Iufautiy, '
decoiat d In IH'iS, Marie Kdi 'lluiek, Suo
Lleilteii'inl, vvoiiiided at Ail-terlit? and leiin,
and the Widow llrlllnw. another siih-I, It uten
nnt hour v ivnndli res have received the cross,
which has a so I oen given to fort -one sisters
of eliarlt) anil to women phllanthioinsts Mine
de Iligis, wife of the Ma ir of llirnu, received
It as i reward for "resl-tuig n riot ' llosa
llnnloiris nn ofll er of the order One nun
loci I veil the cross in recognition of sixty eiio
service In a hospital
When it comes to American patriots, tlierols
nothing tho matter with Mrs Nancy Ann
llirger, w ho lives near W'llllnmsporl, Pn Mrs
llirger Is 111" inrsold htm lost her husband
Intliu war ot IHl'J and two sous In the civil
war I'orelghty-slx ears alter her husband's
doath she lived, as she &tlll lives, lu a log house
BBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBmBBBBjBBBJBBBBBBJBBJBJBBBJB
which he built when Pennsylvania was thn
western frontier of tho country. She has tho
best garden in the nelghboihood and does her
own housework So long ns she could support
herself she did not ask lor a pension Hut she
feels that, ns she Is gt ttlng on In eirs now.
and as if the flu a month which ( engross lias
given her will really come in very handy.
Tho German Lmpross Is said to have Buf
fered a good many c ipillnri vicissitudes. In
other nnd shorter words, she has hail n sad
time with her hair When the silver threads
began to come tho Lmprnss was very much
depressed nbout It. ami un accommodating
frlond got horn bottle of hair die "wurranted
harmless" The misguided Lmpress used It.
with the usual dire results hhewoiild gladly
have gomt Into n tlrement for n while, but thnt
was Impossible, ami wllh fear ami trembling
she presented horsolf nt the next family menl.
The august William gun net ono nwful look
and then demanded thn bottle In vain sho
protested that theie was no bottle Tho Em
peror searched until ho found it, when
he disposed nt ono fell swoop of tho
stuff nnd Hie man who had sold it. Hut tho
I mpress was not to be daunted, nnd, nt her
reiiucst, a friend sent to Paris for nnothor live,
which was ilul applied '1 ho vert next morn
ing the 1 mperor et d his wife with wrath and
demanded who had sold her "that gliding, so
shameful to see on the he ui of a mother and n
spouse" r t lint battle went the way o' the
llrst 1 ho rnipressilld not fancv going nbout
in motley, so faras her halrvvas concerned, so
she again npiu ibul to In r friends lo procure
something which would completely blanch tlio
Hair 'llils final experiment I-, said to have
tiei n sui ci ssf ul
It boetns that there aro changes of fashion In
the dress of Chines,) wonion. but they aro con
fined chiefl tu tlio change of length of tho
tunic and the weiring or leaving off of a skirt.
The usual garments are trousers, a skirt ami
tvvo or three little eo its Tlio Chinese woman
miking an afternoon visit tnkesoir hor skirt,
wlion an Amoricm vvomnii would remove her
wrap. If ft is vol y warm, sho may take off ono
orpisslbl) two of the little coats. The trousers
are really the most goigi oils part of tho cos
tume, bolng sometimes of rose-colored sntln
vvoiked with gold Illtin cotton is generally
used for evcivd 1 weni ( luneso women wear
nocorsots, but that lies not prove that they
tio not need a leforinot like Assomhlvmiui
Dnggett of llenr I rei k to prevent them from
lacing 'Jhevhnvt nlmost no hips, so they tio
the waist t ii I- if their troii-iis and skirts
verv tight to keep them from sllpi ing off.
FRILLS Of FAtltlOW I
Fine nainsook embroideries with mo hlhoni m
of laco Introduced horn nnd there add pretty fl
variety to the season's Urlinmlngs Ii,ii , I
anil Venice point effects, nre nlsv pn in v i i .
duced lu the cotton oinilrolderios for Uiiiunu,
summer gowns,
Lawn rufllos In white and luloeol mean v
bought nil hemstitched rea ly fo use mi f
you want to make oitr vvhitt lavv i g n
especially chic, scallop all the ruflt -t in n,,
embroidery.
UtUtonsnron decided fetituroof hshlnn l tu
It Is tho llttlo button this time liioi,-h, r
engraved metal, and WVdgwnol Instoal f 1
costal. j
Nun's veiling, because of Its sort elingi .j '
qualities, will bo ono of tlio poptilat m itoni j
this season.
Thin tinted orcsndlos will bo verv tn i h
worn, anil something untie novi 1 Is a e ml.,i ,. I
tlon of p'aln white nnd violet in otic ginn 'Iid 1
skirt nnd sleevesnro of white, nnd the pint.
lngs nt tho bottom and the bo lice covorel I
with crosswise tucks nro of the deep v Inlet I
organdie. H
Anothor Idea In making up organdies Is th) I
useof one color over another: blick oruuidin 1
overpluk.or vvhlto over heliotrope, an 1 pret. H
tier still Is the tiseot a deeper shade of tho 8
same color for tho organdie lining I
Narrowsllk frlngos with notwoik heading? I
nre used for trimming gowns and silk blouses I
nsvvell. I
Line tho collar of your fnwn-oo!ored oi-it
with shirred chiffon of the same colors if It Is a
high ono.
Pink, white and pale violet pond lilies are
popular llovvors In millinery.
Kaw n nnd dull colored laces generally are one
of tho tleslrible dress trimmings l'nnn-eol.
ored laee on a silk waist worn with a luvvn
cloth suit ts tho smart thing
milium to miss wat.woiitii.
A Volunteer's Mite to Help to Honor Ilia
Army Nurse Who Nnorttlreit Hit I.lfc.
Tho movement to erect a monument over thn
grave of Miss Ileuhemi Walworth, who died of
tvphold fever after nursing tho soldiers nt Mon-
tauk. Is progressing satisfactorily. The work
was undertaken llrst by the Saratoga Chapter
of the I). A It . and It has now boon sanctioned
by the National Convention of that body. M(m
Anna Maxwell Jones of '12'1 West Twenty-third
street Is tho tretsurer. Tho following letter
was received recently:
" Tr eminotov. N' J. I
"Drxn Mapam: I hivo just road of your Im.
tentlon of erecting n monument lo perpetuuto
In the hearts of the American people tho mem
oryof a hero of the late war I hive been In
several hospitals, down South as well as In tho
State of Now YorK. I urn not completely re.
covered et. Hut If to-day I am not hurled
somewhere in tho "Hlvor of Death' (Chi ki
iniiugn Park i or In some corner of the 'pot
ttril Iclil.' It is bee iuso wo had tho women of
this country All honor to thorn' s I nfc n
vvellvewe, nnd after us nurchildr-'ii f r wu
will tell them will cherish tlieii memorv
'' lVft. lfl "ri"'.' """I'll 'I Ijio .nioniliic of
Miss Walworth s funoml, and I f. It It mv dt ty
to wnlk the long wny uptown to have tin c. n
solution of raising ni hat on the pissngoof
hei collln. Tho same niglit I was earned back
to Ilellevuo
"Will vou accept mv humble contribution?
Please. I beg of ou. take It. small as It Is I
bnvnn t been able to work et. so am unable to
send more Hut ') cents from a tdcl: soldier I
know will nmount to dollars when repeated
often, as I hope they will be "
llio lettor was signed by a Corporal of volunteers.
"Everything for the Hair."
A matchless stock of Human Hair Goods in all its branches.
gglj THE PATENTED
lllll Newport Coil and Marie Antoinette
SwnV!Hll produce an exquisite coiffure.
fi Wigs and Toupees
nun ars cnrTsuwuu of my make are the standard of perfection.
Silver Gray Hair Hair Ornaments. I
act p ire WHITE HAIR la thli icaton otn n- Choice selection of TOHTOIiC AN1 AM. I
ceptionally lino qtnllty. psrtlcaUrl), the pur, n,:n snKLI" Brfght anil Mttd JKTS. Ex. I
clear fhartlns nil the eiccllcnt nitnrvl curl of ' ""''" I
1'L.VMRS, AI.SACIAN HOWS, nd tAC7n 0
.aias-maact up In various mrtlstlo ntOXriS- iiUTTKItl'r.IKS mounted with DrlUlanU.
riI.CIt will prove moat istliifactorr. I'KAltL AND JET MKCKLACKS.
U D . QJIWlO'njQ'O'Vl
933 Broadway, bet. 21st and 22d Sts., New York. I
OihioKm umliH. The Lending Ifoute for Hair Goodn. Telephone 2r,01-lSlhi )
vrt i I I ifJ An nrra'0' "rlRht tins
Ml' ' IhiI 'm l'"' ""')'1'011 f
Illy ' ": Ml nmny lioitseki'i'pora.
ufn wll 'Jo such wo ofTm- this
Bin '' "'""l 1'lnt : Aftor thn u,m
flwV i T,i ,tlyffTVL a, vvnslietl clean
Srii'P '4x1 i uU them with
It's the Iliiislilng touch thnt kIvi h tho rIobs
nml saves iiiueli of the hard nibbing to
luako them bilghl. Itn tho iiink anil
Inlioi-savliii; vvn. Oioterrt sell It
k Beautiful Woman
is c ften distressed
by gray or bleached
- - hair.
Pll'l Ul V! II MK Kl (.V KATOR
i the ni r-uiti mil luiiiiU-- ir-melj fnrfttl.T
It m. 11 11 tai i i -t i irrn Imir t it n itiual nlr
an 1 i il 11 i It 1 r i' 1' -nt I h) h If Ii i- ub
. 'i 1. Ii I , ui II iw tlie'uilri. itAiituI -.
I i it t li it i wv t 1 iu Uill ii t htiiln t)i
t- al i f 1 ii I I t hi s ii. 1 I k f Ur,
i I t ttii i i iifiu Applti at. inn u j)0-
Ul' 1 r it i lit
nii'iuni ioiii.t i'i:i:i' ica rioss
c e t nti I t n h ni I" uutj b i I tort "KI t, which
ill U in ili' i fit in. am, Mlt il f mil m
IitHMTlfil hriult ul "Mfc, i o,,
292 Fifth Ave., iU!,i' lVJd"rt
GREAT SCOTT! Don't
ruin jour nice Floors, Furniture, Tront
Dt)orv.iiuI Woodwork with soap and crude
oil preparations
USE I'EKFbCTlON WAX Oil. PDL1SH.
It cleans and polishes Feautilullv, hides
scratches, removes stains, brines out urain.
Applied with cloth, handier than water If
your dealer does not keep will send sample
'pint cm prep ud for 5oc 01s- 75c, half
gals. Jl.25, trals 5200.
F. JORDAN, 33 B'dway, New York.
LA GRECQUE LATTICE,
mn r-ionTEST,
6TItONOK8T,
SIOST ATTnACTIVH
C0I13KT MADE, 1.80 UP.
Ij.v ohkcque bi:lt corsets.
Warrnntcil to reduce atout Abvum from one to
three !;a, 82,30 up,
VAN ORDEN, 923 broadway.
' ttir. Slat fit. :
LADIES' TAILORING.
SUITS TO ORDER
at MoiuutATi: riticr.s.
1JKST QUAI.ITV I.OTH
ami l'lutrncT riTTixo.
FRUHAUF & BUXBAUM,
1.170 HItOm,AY-47TII ST. i
MME. GRISWOLD'S
(llTOMAMI Ul m--llni. (OHSITH
t nnu t In cmrllcil f. r
(Civil our, III VIIIIIII.Mss anil FI B-
I, AM I .
A pcrfiit lit laKuaraiit -il, awtliavori prt ntt.ra
In rttti tnliin i.
s, ni vlnl, ttninal ('urartu ami Iltiula for larg.
Ultilie-, ritltlri tti Ui an 1 uip huh ful null lie
The OEM INK. an li. imr lu.i I mil) at
TBG G0RS6T PRRCGRS.
4 w i.-,t sji s,Tin:hr.
O. HAAS BROS., WAVmi.
.(HI rn ril AM:., b.t r,Ui and S'Uh it.
niioiiiHi tin oinuiiii: of tho iHtotXinp rtolMlMi
tor thf tipntit: mhi u tu 1 init lniMtl u I nl r
iimtl. Bint-. rlthl milt lme'l thruuln ut, in.) i. w
lie flfct.retl for 4.".(M),
for which nur iifiul )rlc U nr oo 8jfoml for tt it
in nth mil) Our tirm iittuiH ii Mjtiunjinotti) tKr uwh
out themiintrj for el--canto of -tjkuiid rtiiatUur
uf wurliimulii,
hiMUM. -moii;lk -TAir.on (.owns.
f in it hiHMLtio i of nur ww mudrU fm i r ng
nd MttiunnT weir anil it nil ur otHr f r t u
tuoiith nnlrof tutlir main nutunuitf ttu 1 pm U
iloth Ih ah thf in u prlUtf atiattih, liuvtl with ila.ui
taffrtiM for ntO (Ml.
KANT I UAIVT8. KVIIMNO fiOUNH,
from original denlKin Ttrfi f tion guanntt ml.
A. ritlKUilAN t, CO., C3 Wilt 4;i aft.
.ni ,

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