= iT iTTiJ IT IT1ri
n 4 Y u r fits I alt7 SUN male smmlrt ptIjVllli3o l1mt IB jt1 tess iIIUSu
MODES VARY MUCHConfusion MUCH h1UCfleConfusion 1UCIIConfusion
Confusion of Ideas Among AmonjParis AmongIi AmongParis
Ii I 1 Paris AuthoritiesyoaUG Authorities AuthoritiesYOQUE AuthoritiesVOGUE
VOGUE OF PRINCESSE GOWNS GOWNSThey aOWNSI GOWNSThey
I
I They A Are e Chic but Not Easy t tMake to toMake tc tcMakc
Make ot to Wear WearChange WenI
I Change In the Fashionable Model of thtUteie th Ute UteH thisleeverho
tUteie H tnel1lCl The Long llr HUirted Cat eat at C eo eotamn Coe Coetames i itomes
tomes of the Louis XV Cenr Il IlLoit line lineLo dartLoot
Loot Lo None of Thrtr Tnelr I4aUgebuctBlff reUc IWNUreMueb IWNUreMuebPllfertnc e Mtic MticDifference
Blff Difference erena In the Coat IJnesTne Una Tt eUtUt eUtUtBolero UtU UtUDolero Jl o oPoltro
Bolero in Favor Aor AInInU AralnVbe he Colt Cutt nit cf th thChcmlictte bbl bblChembette i iChtJUlleUe
Chcmlictte Approaching the Propor Pwpoitloni ProporI
I lion tioneofa1lanj or a Mania Uani a1be The he Lingerie Olios DIIU1n DIIU1nually U1sueiually e ev euolly
v
ually definite foot J Je being belD < < erolreho erolre OTolndfr
fr r ho 0 ohcoi of prophecy oonoernln oonoernlnthoslsona oonoern1ncthe
the thoslsona ione nlI mode but there are still ItUtI stillI tli tlipoints
I points oonoerning which the devotee o ofashion 01 01I
I I fashion are dubious There for Inatanoo InatanooU
U the sleeve sleeveA aleovoA leevoA
A host of women ODCD have be been n keepingaeamstreAsea keepmcI keeping
j aeamstreAsea ll busy turning turnln last year yearale years year1aietTM yearselMvos
I ale aietTM vcs upside down alter th the recipe ad advanced adI advaaoodbyalltbefashtonmadeowynuthor ¬
I vanced vaaoodbyalltbefashtonmadeowynuthor vaaoodbyalltbefashtonmadeowynuthortloe by all the fashion made easy BIY author authortlo authorltlOI
tlOI tlo Drcasmakera have been lMn making theI theeleeves th thleevea the
I leevea of now frocks Iroo + with groat fulnos fulnessat fulnosat luln lulnI
I at the top and wits puff approaching approachingthe
the old time sleeve 1I1e burlcsqua burlcsquaylnd uurll9Ituond burlcsquallnd
ylnd nd now ono hear from good authority authoritythat authorityI I Ithat
that In Paula the mrly trndcnry toward towardexaggerated towardexaggerated I II
I
I exaggerated w c rilnanx In at the shoulder shoulderline libouldorI
I I I line ho > l > tan KVO riot itetl l that thero has be been beena n na I Ia
a reaction iiui < < 1 that while widely bouffant bouffantuleovo houlfAntI bouffantleovo
uleovo puff pu aro tiU til wn tott in the th rtC realm 1n of ofIbe ofCIe ofthe
I the ready reAd jimtio uwl And often of ion duplicated jar jarmenC enrj
t menC th thn IRK Ill wt orations turned Qut by bythe bythe bythe
j
the greatest miien m eJll + tnu cnJ worn by b the moat moatfastidious m moatfastidious 6t 6tI
fastidious fast dious and an authoritative of Parisian Parisiantlejantei PrielAnI Parisianefeganfe
I I 1 tlejantei III1QIU havo slaves of modest mod t dlmen dlmenalons dimeD110m ddmenclone
clone and In many car oars qjlto q Ito clinging clingingThat clinKingI
I That the elbow alcove and the sleeve sleevewith eleovewith leeTowith
with lon Ions close cuff aro established a for forthe lorI forthe
I the seaon no one questions and that a abioader abtvader
bioader bloa er shoulder lino than that of last lastyear wtin lastyear
in 1 year ear Is accepted is also afinite a definite wflnlte fact factbut factj
j I but tho fear that we were w ro on the way to tothojonce toI tothgonce
t I thojonce th once popular gigo raotwtrosltie motUltrOllti01lma seems seemito seemsto
1 to have been without wlthoutground grounds and those thosehardy thosebanly thosehardy
hardy ones who pushed forward auda audaciously audaI ¬
douRly along the indicated path must ne nee neede neederntraoo < xs xsretraoo a aretraoo
I retraoo their step > ol if they the would be in the theheight thebeigM theheight
height of the mode modeA modsI modeA
A t New York woman exceedingly canny cannyin DennyIn
I
1 in matters mat rI of fashion and always in step stepwith IUPi
i I i with Parisian modes mod went abroad lat latmonth lutI laste4
I f1 month to obtain a summer outfit In Part Partand ParilNi ParisAla
Ni and enjoy May and Juno in London A Aletter Aletter Aletter
letter from her which baa just l been > en rev revcalved re received reI ¬
I calved is overrun with exclamation points pointsand poln polnt pointst
t and aurprUo and is I devoted clmott entirely entirelyto eD 11 11to
to the absorbing toplo of clothesOne clothes clothesdne oJothO1dne
dne is completely bewildered by the theconfusion theri theri
ri confusion of oIldeaa ideas and verdict erdlc she he write writeand wrlteafit writesrd
fit and I am coming to tho conclusion that thattbo thatSj thatB
Sj B the only thing to do is 1 to choooo cboo o ono of the thebig thoI thetit
I th big bl dressmakers en swallow his laws whole wholeand wholIn wholein
In and lUTe sublime ubllm faith in his infallibility infallibilityno
l no matter how widely other great drew drewnukersmAy dreMmaktlJJJJ1A1
I 1j nukersmAy differ with him himOfraoarM himt
1 t OfraoarM 01 > cJ0UrM tbero are oertoln things upon uponwhich uponJ
I J 12 which all agree The stuffs and trimmings trimmingsgenerally trlmmlngtI
I I generally gmer I1 accepted aoccp here are those shown shownin
c in Ne New l JY Tork and th the closed bode higherbust higher higherbust
11 bust line ne elbow sleeve full tklrt klrta fittedI fitted fittedround ftt ftti
I i Q round the hips lace aco and lingerie gulmpea gulmpeaand rultnpei gulmpeesurd
i 1 and a great many other features of the now nowfrocks nowC
2 frocks era > re no surprU lurpr to mo here because becauseI
I I bad grown accustomed to them at home homeMy homeMy
1 My Iy ideas on cleaves have been turned turnedtopey turnedropey
4 ropey toPT turvy tWf I supposed no one could b baved be beI beeared <
eared without a gigot silhouette end nd her beroJ heret
I t 2 find half the women who are ftmedfoi ftmedfoitheir fa fan3edfortheir ed for fortheir
their clothe sporting dose sleeves to th thelbow the thei theelbow <
i elbow long loco wrlnkl wrinkled d alcoves of oIlaoe oIlaoetj lace loeor laceor
t I or other sheer stuff uft sleeves rather long on onthe onthe
tj the shoulder and with caps or some other otheiarrangement otherartallcementtbat otherarrangement
arrangement artallcementtbat that giro a suggestion of ofdroop adroop a adroop
droop droopTbo droopi droopTbe
i Tbo lovely IoTeI sheer llttto blouMB as often oftenas oftenI
I Ii as a not have fine vertical tucking on thel the theVeevwwhero ther
r l sleerea Veevwwhero e s where here they ore set tlnto into the armhole armholeso
l so 101 that thy lie comparatively flat for a short shortway shortI
I I way below the shoulder line though of oiooureo ofI
I L courts the fulnise above abo tho wrist is gone goneandwhatever goneI goneand
I andwhatever and whatever hate r fulness there the U usually ulUAlJ end endat rodeI enMat
I at the elbow above abo a long close cuff cu or orwithout orI ors
I III without any ruff In a general way the thofull therull thea
a full top and elbow elbo length or close co e cuff li lithe 11I Isj
j I c the thing but dont emphasize the fulness fulnessor
v or 91 r in for extreme shoulder breadth breadthand breadthr
r and if A close clo e fitting flttingor or mouaquetaire ske sleeve lleeveIs sleeveis v vis
is more becoming to you wear it Youll Youllbe YoullI
I be in company com 1 with Ith some of the awellesl awelleslwomen lwelleat1IOJ1en ewelkstv
v women here though I dont know how It Itwill Itwill ItI
will be in Xew York YorkHere YorkThen YorkThere
I
Here was other first hand information informationIn
i In the letter 18ttermentlon mention of an Increasingmovement Increasing Inoreulnlmo
I mo movement mcnt in dressy toilettes toward skirts Clklrtawith skirtswith skirtswith
with a little train and nd only moderate length lengthat
at sides llde and front enthusiasm over the theprlncesM theprlncellOll theprtnoesse
prlncesM gowns of lingerie materialseeetatlo materials materialseeatatlo mallr1abeOl
eeatatlo eOl lIo description of lingerie toilettes toilettesrn to1Jeturn
rn suitefrock coat hat parasol all of ofbatiste ofhatllte ofhathate
batiste or linen embrolJercd in openwork openworkand openworkand
I and trimmed with Valenciennes Pralao Pralaoof Pra1 PrahsoI
I of o f the circular walking walldn skirt of the new newcuhmer newcuhmena01 newcaahmerse
cuhmer cuhmena01 of the shot hotBlIkaof silka of the Louis XV XVooaU XVcoat XVooata
coat in silk to be worn with sheer skirts skirUbut 11drtaI
I but these h ee are All things a concerning which whichwo wblcbI
I yebaa1read s0have wo ha ve already alreadysaldmuch alreadysaldmuchrho ea aldmuch aldmuchTho id much muchTbo
Tbo prhjceeae pCtMe gown has not yet attained attainedthe attalMdthe attainedthe
the vogue hero which It la enjoying In Paris Parisand Pariaand Parisand
and the mode Is never ne r likely to become becomecommon booomocommon becomecommon
common because of the be difficulties s con
DinEcroiin OOIT or srnircD attx attxnoctcd 1I11JDOC 5U
DOC noctcd with the succrvtfu making of prin prinoee prlnoeMe prinoe4e
k oee models modeJ5i but the woman who Q ran t1I eportatrufpsuocea sport sporta
a atrufpsuocea truly Huocnuful fulfrhnoeseagowaof lullrlDOCMa > rlnoCMQ gown CO of lingerie lingeriematerial Ilnriomaterialt Ungsrfematerials
material this t sun ummi me wIH 111 bar haTe uro the galh galhteoUoa aU aUfoctlon tiII tiIIf
foctlon f UoD of knowing know In that her toilette U I all allthat a1Jtha allthat
that them Is of the mdH tao t onto ontoA ohiotol abbtoo7
A tolerably tol rablf pod flgty t b d de dee dsmatided minded
1
e IAaa W t t t
by T the prinoMM and a supremely good goodcorset goodcorset I IoollOt
corset oollOt is even more ees essential ntial than the good goodfigure KOOdftJUNI goodAgurel
figure for in a prince pri prlnceese gown the lines linosths linestbs
the thing and only rarfcful corsettlng ran raniissure Mlnure canewurs
iissure ure the correct sllhou allheuettl allheuettlTho elihouettaThe tU tUTho >
Tho lingerie IIn e princess is a rooM of hand handwork handwork
work tucked or shirred or In some aolD otter otterWilful othrIIk11llul otherskillful
Wilful fashion moulded to the > waist alat curv curvfull curves curvesfull
full above though never blousing ntUil ntUilnround IItu littalaround 1 1around
around th the hips hi I by 11 clever tucking goring gotlniAc goringke gorlnsJe
Ac ample below belo and cnricl enriched > ed evcrywhare evcrywharewith
with Ith hand embroidery mbrolder and inset I t lAce No Noon Noon Noone
the ron construction ronItruetlon ronstructon ¬
one on save N an artist should attempt
struction of one of the theM o triumphs of a asimplicity asimplicity
simplicity truly Parisian but they are nrocharming arecharming
charming when well nude and wr well 11 worn wornTo wonlTo wornTo
To obtain oht n the round skirt aklJ1ln In a prinoow prinoowmodel prlnooulmodel prfnooasemodel
model M difficult though it may to done l h by > y
inset ploltings and other trimming run running runnine running ¬
ning up from the hem to the knees kn and in ineuring InlIUJing inairing
airing great width at the bottom of a skirt skirtI llkirtnClOllNlil1 skirtnecessarily
I necessarily clinging around waist wal t and hips hipsand blpsand hipsand
and cut in one with the bodice Some of ofthe 01the ofthe
the best makers consider the little trainbatter train trainbetter tmlnbettor
better adapted to a prinoosae model and anduse anduae anduse
use it with a llldrt skirt length at Bide ldef and front frontmuch frontmuch
> much shorter than In the round skirts HklrtaProbably skirtsProbably kirtsProbably I
Probably it is the development of this thisidea thl thlIdDa thisidea
idea in connection with the modish prine prin prineesse pnneesae
tease that ban prompted Paquin and other otherof otherof othersof
of his elope to introduce the trained skirt skirtupon skirtupon skirtupon
upon tome of the other evening and after afternoon dlernoon afternoon ¬
noon toilettes toilettesIn
In lane the prinoc prhnoeaee e model modclle Is liked and andIn andIn andin
In tho supple gating atin and nd silka as well the thelatter theIat thelatter
latter Iat r being made with a certain oertalnseverity oertalnseverityof severity severityof evenlyoC
of line but usually cut very low in tho bod
TU Tug casrct CAPS ciriIce CAP CAPlOCI CAPSIce
Ice to show fluffy masses of lace chiffon chiffonAo ohlllnnto ohlffnnko
Ao and and cin made with short or elbow sleeves sleevesof Illtoecof
of hoe or sheer stuff The sleeve made in intwo Intwo Intwo
two or three frills falling In points poln to tho thoelbow tholbow theelbow
elbow is a a lapui jopular r model and very er broom becoming OOcomIng broomIng ¬
ing Under such a sleeve II eon In lace ono onooft sees seesoften seesoften
often oft a llttlft underscore of sheer ruterial ruterialjust l1aerlalj
i j just covering in its puff pu the elbow tolnta tolntafeature pointafeature jxilnt a afeature
feature seldom admirable even in a fairly fairlygood flrlrgood fairlygood
good armWhere arm armVhcro armWhcro
Where > regulation prince prlnOOIM cut is lacking lackingthe Iacklncthe lackingthe
the mew frock often attains a modified modifiedprincewe modifiedprince modifiedprineepse
princewe prince effect by the dkposltkm of the thebodloo thebodko I Ibodloo
bodloo folds and bodice and klrt trimmings trimmingsand
I and tho arrangement of the juncture Ic Ictwrtn IICtttn lotwen I
twrtn bcdico and skirt This arrange arrangement anungoi arrangemeat ¬
i meat nt L Ie for ceremonious toiltttten toIMt more nvarechia mol morechic I
I chic than the u use > of a girdle but requires requiresmore rtqulrelmore requiresmore
more skilful handling and the fitted swathedglldle swathed swathedgiidfe sathedIbdle
giidfe U more practicable for the ordinary ordinaryUrea ordlDllrydree ordinarydresemaker
dresemaker dresemakerThe Urea maker makerTh ma r I IThe
Th The long skirUd coal costumes of the tboLouis theLouis I
Louis XV genre have lost none of their theirprtstig theirpre theirprudgs
prtstig pre It and will riJappareIrtly apparently be worn evenp1 even evenp
p plIO p1 re than 1aa last Bummer 8WUI er the mode not being beingr brln brlnto beingrestricted
r restricted irict d to the exclusive few f w a as It ItD was wasthru wasthen I
thru D but belpr betyc < moro generally popular popularJ popularrlK
r
+ rlK rMetWI4R J
11
then ore many varintlons upon the UU UUtwo Idea Ideatwo a atwo
two of the most attractive being illustrated Illiutratedin lIIultml < < l lIho
in the mall cut cutParisians ruts cutllParlana rutsParisians
Parisians have a fondnfiw for tl Uift > Pekln Peklnor
or striped silks IIUk as a material for these coat coatsand coatand coatllI
I and the mcdiI Mown hero was a most l11o t lUC suoccMful auoassful lUCCXrul
ccMful onn with lIh a draped bodloo JcdlC front frontclohfly lrentclololly rentclosely
closely mottcllcd to the figure 111 > ending Just Justbetow justI justbelow
I below be low tho waist alet line at front and sides MdcsInittoiiing sidesImttoning IdisImltonlng
Inittoiiing double lirrnttrd blYlIt d with straps strapsbuttons Ftn FtnbtittoM III IIIbllttoM
buttons and having draped revers of band liondsornf bandI handhome
I home 100m laro over flat rovers cf white silk ullkIn IIlIkIn silkIn
In the lack cent tails narrow at tbo wnUt wnUtline wnhtline nlAt nlAtIlr
line Ilr breaden to rounded ends nr and fall falllow falllow faillow
low oCr the skirt Idrt of If mountelu mnu 11M lns Inset t with withLion withIllct withlate
Lion LionTho The other model has broad square skirt skirtin IIIIMIIin
in the back but It too ban u fitted draped
front a BurjHco idea ld being carried out ou inthis in inthis Inthis
this COM f with wide lands of real Venetian Venetianinw Venetianlace
lace Ixjrtiering the surplloe frontsThe fronts frontsThe
The dosed clol fitted front is favored for a alarge alarge
large number of theO coats but one sees seestoo seestoo B Btoo
too the coat open and cut away in frontafter front frontafter lrontaCter
after a modified Dirrrtolre fashion In Instriped Inalrlpe Instriped
striped < silk plain corded silk such ns tho thonew thonew thenew
new chiffon faille the rich flowered silks Mlkaand IIlIksand silksand
and soft satins thf these oe coats Catsare ore plcturecque plcturecqueand
and serviceable and often ctic such aursrtgarment smirt smirtgarment I IRl1rment
garment IH worn with lIh various sheer skirts skirtsin IIklrtllwhile
in white cream or i pale > le tints hermonltlng hermonltlngwith I
with the coat Jnt silk nllkThe silkThe ilk I
The great variety in coat lines IInl is one of oftho 01tho ofthe
tho surprising featured of tic t e sfasons sfasonsmodes 8tneonlImodIS araronsmales
modes and tao diversity scene lI < err f t > increase increaserather Increaserather i irathlr
rather tan diminish BR to wcets wt1 go by byTlie byTIle byThe
TIle street ooct and kit costume COlt mo may mayhave maybAo mayhave
have a oo cod t in any lento Ien t from shortest shoitestbolero ahortellbolero shortestbolero
bolero to longest redingote and since sincethere IInretbere sincethere
there is no hard and fast rule the clover cloverdressmaker c1oerdre cloverdreasmaker
dressmaker dre amaher or tailor will consult the thotomeIIll cus customers customers ¬
tomers Individual needs in Rejecting a amodel amodel amodel
model for her herIt herIt herIt
It is in this tJ1 consideration that the artist artistshows artistshown lrtlstIIhoWII
shows himself Few French model frocks frockshowever frockiloweer frockslowever
however chic and charming can bo donned donnedby dOMedby donnedby
by tho average woman with remits per perfectly perfectly ¬
fectly frot sat satisfactory satisfactoryThe atlllfllol atlllfllolTbe lsfnotory lsfnotoryThe
The perfect gown is the gown designed designedfor
for tho individual woman woman and owing much muchof muchof
of 1U cachet to 1U harmonious development developmentof
of the best 1x > st pOlllbilltiOi Xs ibilltioB of her face and
LOUI U > UH COAT Or nOWRRCD BILK BILKfigure attnfigure
figure Even a slight change In tho line lineof lineor
of collar girdle shoulder or hip will some sometlme sometimes
times make an unbecoming gown broom broomlag becoming belJmand ¬
lag and the be wU woman wom D sartorially rtorlal1 U lashe Ushe I IIbe
she who bo has ha studied her own llue Uueuod Uuesaodcol Uuesaodcoloring and col coloring 001o ¬
o oring until aha know kDo knows exactly what suit suither I111taher suither
her and what does not no And who bo baa the thead e
r ad
courage of her conviction convictionThe lQnvtctloMThe
The little boloro coat risen rIII n ono more morofrom morefrom morefrom
from from hit M when ll though some m few fe Paris parAcorrespondents Parisoorrospondents Parisoorr01lponden
correspondents still thunder Culminations Culminationsagainst fuhnlnationsaj3lMt fulrninatlonsagainst
against It Is pcrt perhaps ttP Wndor to tho figure figureand Rure Ruream nuret
am and more generally len rnlll becoming thanany tbnnnnotho tbnnnnothocoat otho othocoat r
t coat model but there are figure for which whichIt 1 1It
It U Impossible aroHl ant It 1 Iii always n youthful youthfulI youthfulgarment uuthfulcannent
I garment and not consistent with a consld condderuble COn ltI ltIeruble
I eruble weight of yearsAt years yearsAt YMIIIAt
At tho beginning of the season one MW MWI sawmany
I many close fitting bolero 001 rOil but the short shortjaunty hortjaunty
jaunty jaunty loose coat with somewhat Indefinite Indefinitesleeve Indnnltalcef indefinitesleeves
sleeve and shoulder line has won flna Asstidaar flnaplace ItI
I place Those vague boleros aro a part of a aUrge ai at
i Urge percentage of tho smartest walking wallclngCOfItumef
1 I costumes and ordinarily ordlnardyfall fall open to show showI
I rather th a wldo expanse C11 e of dainty dnlnt blouse blou I
LIGHT LIGHT CLOTH LOTHTAI TAILORED RED SUITS SUl r 1
while the loose short alcove fall in bell bellfurhion bellfUllbion bellfeshion
furhion over the blouse sleeves allClslea1ng leaving the thelatter thelatter thelotltr
latter In evidence from elbow to wrist wristor wristor
or perhaps the hlou blouse sleeve 11I > oe ends at the theelbow theelbow
elbow and tho still shorter coat sleeve is isslashed 111IIlabhld isBlabbed
slashed up the outride to show the under undersleeve underleee undersleeve
sleeveOften sleeve sleeveOften leeeorten
Often this sleeve is so cut In one nn with the thebody thebody thebodyof
body bodyof of the thebolero bolero that the effect is that of ofa ofa
a graceful gm fllllltt1e little cape rather rath r than of a coat I
1
r rs
s
I
or UTCUN RIBBON AND X uses LtCLbut usesbut ACB ACBbut
but below these vague flowing folds which whichgive whichgi whichglve
give gi shoulder breadth the waist alat curve IB IBtrimly Iatrimll Istrlmly
trimly deflnd by a carefully unoulded girdle girdleor gir < Jle Jleor
or belt bIIltlOtbat so that the waist waJ appears the smaller smallerfor smallerfor mallerI
I for tho fulness of the little coat above and andof endof
of the full skirt below belowFlat beJowFlat belowFlat
Flat fiber or Houtache braid alone or in incombination Ini incombination
i combination with 1rlUllIOtDe some one of the attractive attractiveembroidered attractiveembroidered
embroidered galoiu trims many of th the bo boleros 00leres holeres ¬
leres Little tran transversely Tonoly plaited bands bandsand bandsi bandsand
i and pipings of silk aro also popular but butthere butI butthere
I there tb6l is little of tho very Or fujy Iraulllonee boulllonleand Iraullloneeand houlllonand
and cording designs dl5lJ IIB so m ch fancied last lastBcason lastseason I Iaeuon
season BcasonHand aeuonnand seasonHand
Hand embroidery or material of con contrasting contraatlng contrasting ¬
trasting color braided U 1 like liked < 1 for waist wabtcoats wwtooatII waistcoats
coats collars cuffs Ac c but the flat turn turndown turndown turndown ¬
down collar of batlete botl to or linen embroidered embroideredand emlJroldcrland
and perhaps p rhap lace trimmed U 11 extremely extremelymodish estromelymodlah extremelymodish
modish for the little bolero of wool or orsilk or111r orsilk
silk 111r Such collar mar mAT be bought in the tboshops thobope theshops
shops and andebanges change cbanlllln in them may UlY ct give ve variety varietye nrlet nrletto
to tho > a e coat Manyot Uany of the ready rtad made suite suluquite lula lulaquia suitequltp
quite quia plain In iI finish may receive reo lYO a touch touchof touchof touchof
of chic and fnmhnim from th the addltlon additionof additionofsuch of ofsuch ot otIUch
such A a collar 11ar and often br rtmovtnr aa ADI
I A 1
> =
unattractive or Unbecoming braided brald d or orappllqu orappUqu orappUqubd
appUqubd appllqu d collar and KUlwtttuting on one oneof of the thedainty thedainty thedainty
dainty linen collars the entire effect of a aredy arNdy aready
ready made bolero may to altered for tho thobettor thobet thobetter
bettor bettorllloused betterUlouaed bet lor lorDlolJAeci
llloused or draped dm d fitted coats endlug at atthe atthe atthe
the walt line or just below belo In front and andwith andwith
with Ith plaited coat talU In the back shaping shapingin ahaplnIn
in swallowtail allwtall linen 11 mill are shown In eom eomvery some someery somevery
very ery good models and while not BO ex extremo extreme oxtremo
tremo SH the Louie XV coats coa arc a a happy happycompromise happycompromise
compromise between them and the bolero boleroOno ho18roOne boleroOne
One of the sketches krtchP reproduce a a wry wrysucce verysucw ry
succe u + t sdul ful French frock of this tl A type and andIn andIn andn
In n the some group In pictured one on of the thenewest thenowlllt thenewest
newest redingote model with smoker collar collarof collarof
of black Mtln ltln white waistcoat and broad broadgirdle broadrdl broadgirdle
girdle rdl lines defined by close clo e line of heavy heavysti hellVYIItitchlDg heavystltcldng
sti IItitchlDg IItitchlDgThe stltcldngThe tolling tollingThe
The narrow narro block collar of till this coat and andof andof
of the plaited coat tall model mc > dol is an idea
popular in Paris and once more the waist waistcoat waistcoat ¬
coat of white piquA smartly tailored i ito Is Isto Ito
to be very ery modish with the street costume coxtumeWith OOtItumeWith costumeWith
With the long redlngato coats closely closelymoulded l1 closelymoulded I Imoulded
moulded to the figure usually by skilful skilfuldraping skilfuldraping kllluldraping
draping are worn close fitting plain bodices bodicesof
of silk fastening in the back and covered coveredIn
In front by bYllomo some dainty fanciful chemisette chemisettewhlrh chcmleettewhlrh chomisettewhL
whlrh whL h shows in greater or less degree ac according IICrordlng according ¬
cording an the cootjopens si IIl1ghtiyor slightly ghtly or broadly broadlyIt
It Is easier to fit tbo coat over this thl carefully carefullycut
cut and smooth bodlco than over a loose looseblouse looseblou8l looseblouse
blouse and tho cut and linen of the redingote redingotemust redlngotemusl redingotemust
must ho masterly to be successful successfulThe lIucce successfulThe ful fulTho
The cult of the chemisette IB approaching approachingtho
tho proportions of a mania and this little littleaccessory UttloaCCO litheaccessory
aCCO accessory llOry appear a In all sorts IIOrt s of frocks frocksfrom froonfrom frocksfrom
from the morning shirt waist frock to the theceremonious theremonlot18 theceremonious
ceremonious remonlot18 visiting 1 ltlng toilet or dinner gown gownIt cownIt gownIt
It may be a round shallow ball ow gulmpe may mayfill mayfill maynil
fill a short square or V in front may reachto reach reachto
to the waist wal t line may be U shaped may maybe II13Ybe maybe
be broadly in evidence or show only onlya
a narrow line but In any and all forms formsIt
It Is the mode and some of the lingerie lingerieand lingerieand lingerieand
and tho lace chemUettos are exquisitecreations exquisite exquisitecreations exqulsltecroatlo
croatlo creations As A a rule the chemisette Is
A DAINtr DAI Tr XVKNIKO rllOCK rllOCKIn rnOCKIn raocain
In one with a transparent oollAr but a few feware leware feware
are finished with Dutch necks necksThe neckaThe nooksThe
The rl rise e of the chemisette chem1 etto and of the Jbeblouse thob1ouso theblouse
blouse with collar attached attcll d bs lessoned lessonedlbe lewonedthe lonodtbe
the vogue of the separate tabbed collar collarand oolIanand collarand
and 1 turnovers amover but the there are still IUUworu IUUworuw11h worn worni wornwith
with Tats i biouzN b1OUM1tof of ahJrt ti nlD f7R ttD4 d
=
Y7L BEAUTIFUL BEAUTIFULGRAY BEAtJTIFULGRAY A V TIFUL TIFULGRAYANDWHiTE
GRAYANDWHiTE GRAY AND WHITE HAIR GOODS GOODSof
of th the finest quality auallt soft natural wtvhair wan wsrrbslr wanbalr
hair from sllkbily aJllrbU sprinkled sprinkled < t cra gray ray totK totKJ to Ule UleJ1vrll the thepure
white whiteAll whiteAll
Unr
pure All otbrr shades J at ray CTa and white whitematched whitematched bite biteIlalched
matched perfectly from our enormous cnornousW ftlOImOUIIoolc
al Ioolc IoolcWe
alWe W We We b have T made np a couplet stock ofcrery of cfevery ofnerT
every style trle Including IncludingCAMIIUS tDdudlDCCUIIJLJa includingLenox
CAMIIUS ad a VICTORIA VIOTORLLwig WATK1 WATK1I WATZJWlp WAYd1Parisian
I Vlo wig Coiffures half ftlLVJLS WI wigs Switches Switcheswhich Stl1tchrsLenox SlS1 SlS1I
Lenox Pari Parisian Ian and Empire Empire Pompadours Pompadoursare ompa4ouT1lwhich
I which are of o pnceiosi priceless vaiu value to 10 eym evet every i lad ladwhole lady ladyi Uj UjI
i I whose hair bis b I become too thin to dress dressbecomingly dreiif 4rubrcomlngly
f becomingly becomlnclyr brcomlnglyHAIR becominglyMAIn
r HAIR DREflSIXaMAnCEL WAVUta WAVUtaby WAVIlfGbT
by eip expert rt artists Also Scalp Treatment TreatmentJfslr TrfatmrntJlalr TreatmentItr
Jfslr Colorlnc Bbampoolnjt Ileautttul < < ittnlcurtnt ittnlcurtntBooklet oanlcurlncDook1el free
Booklet B ookk Coloringwbto q II How Uo to IJ Ire UeautUul free freeL r < e
LSHAW LSHAWM L qS S SHAW tAW tAWN
M WEST urn rr MM ebb th u AT Arl x 2 T
are shown In wonderfully attractive guise guiseThe gu1eeThe guiseThe
The sheer lingerie blouse blotl continue to tocarry toCUT7 tocarryall
carry carryall all before them intherealm in the realm of separate separatewaists eeparatoalstl separatewaists
waists alstl and naturally enough there IH a adeluge adeluge adeluge
deluge of such blouses showy aha in effect effectbut elCectbut effectbut
but coarse ooar e in material trimmed in cheap cheapUce cheaplace cheaplace
lace and entirely machine mode
The really fine and dainty blouse hand handembroidered handembrolder handembroidered
embroidered Ilnoet in inset et with lace and suggestive suggestivein
in their fineness nlne and delicacy deUcncyof of baby roboj robojand roboJand robwend
and frocks aro necetuaiily n rjy high in price pricebut pricebut pricebut
but if one cannot afford these there are arcIn areIn areIn
In a few of the be befit t shops delightful deUghtfulllttlo deUghtfulllttloblou8l8of little littleblouses 111thblousceof
blouses blou8l8of of finest mull deoldof devoid of all trimming trimmingnave trimmingt
nave t a multitude of tiny tucks and a frillof frill lrillof frillof
of fine valenciennea at tho throat and andwrists andW1 andwrht
wrists W1 l18 These are arevery very ry inexpensive tnexpendveascorn tnexpendveascornpared as 111 com compared ¬
pared parol to the moro elaborate blouse as asfine asIIno astine
fine yet t they are much moro chic and anddesirablo anddesirablo
desirablo de lrnblo than the coarse and elaborate elaboratemodels elaboratemodels
models modelsIn
In tho underwear departments aro offered offeredItalian olleredItalian offeredItalian
Italian silk slips high necked plain made madewitli madowith madewith
with long close bleevcs and buttoning in invisibly InI6Ibly invldbly ¬
visibly in tho back These are for wear wearwith wearwith oor oorwith
with tho sheer blouson now that tho pock pookaboo pockaboo peekaboo ¬
aboo idea Is mercifully out of fashion fashionbut fuhJonbut fashionbut
but many women lm hai > plait lips of India IndiaBilk IndiasUk Indiasilk
Bilk made at homo or oven loss expensive expensiveand espen lvo lvoand
and quite cut practical plain Blips of fine finewhite finewhite finewhite
white lawn lawnAnd lawnAnd lawnAnd
And whilo we nro II talking t lklnlt of lingerie lingerieblouMM IIngoriobloUM lingerieblouaoa
blouMM > i and by inference of high trans transparent tranporcnt transparent ¬
parent collars thero Is a new invention for forsupporting forupportlng forsupporting
supporting such collars which seems erne less lessknown 1l8known lessknown
known than it deserves to be The put in includes Inlludls Inv Inveludes ¬
eludes three th e flat gold slide one for each eachsido eachaldo eachside
side of tlo collar one for tho back On Ontho onthe Ontho
tho side IIldeof of oacb end ondof of the slide Is a minute mtnutpoint mlnulerlnt minutepoint
point upon which is screwed a tiny button buttonor
or jewel jewelThe jewelThe jewelThe
The slide i III laid under und the collar tho thopoints thopolnta thepoints
points pierce through the sheer collar tho thowoe thowoe thowoe
woe buttons are screwed on and there is heyour isyour IIyour
your collar held out to it I its proper width widthand widthand widthand
and with no mechanism showing rave a aglint aglint
glint of gnldunderaeeth gold underneath the laco rod a tiny tinypearl tinypoorl tinypearl
pearl or jewel or gold button at top and andbottom andbottom
bottom In solid gold and real jewels the thopott UO1tOts therate
rate aro expensive > xpoD tve but plated plal d sets ets cost costvery eoltery costvery
very ery little littleOf littleOf
Of tho use u e of ribbon this tl ll season I muchmight much muchmight mucbmight
might be written but bu it Is hard to giv givby gT gTb give giveby
by b description an Idea of the multifarioM multifarioMux
ux U8 s to which ribbons aro put The ribbon ribfcmembroideries rlh ribbonembroideries n nembrolderi
embroideries used on everything fromixtrasols from fromparasols fromI
I parasols to evening frock aro wonderfully wonderfullyboautlful wondedullI wondedullybeautiful
I beautiful and among the new trinvnlnga trinvnlngaare trin 1Ilnltll 1Ilnltllare
are shaded velvet ohat ribbon of varying widths widthsembroidered liidthllembroidered sidtheembroidered
embroidered in tiny flower design of orlbbon orlbbonI o f ribbon ribboncr
I cr in silk and gold thread lUbboA bonds bondsborder handI handsborder
I border the flounce of many garment pn enta ae aeIa a aIn 8 8In
In the oaaoof case of tbe friv < loua little MMjacket MMjacketof
of peach each blossom mouelino 8ke ekeiched shed tJed here herewhloli berebloh herewhloh
whloli bloh ha baa border of Liberty uttla r1t1 ribbon ribbonIn ribbonIn
In the be tame pink and a girdle and bow of ofwider ofder ofwider
wider der ribbon ribbonWid ribbonkI ribbonWe
Wid kI We folded girdle ar are mn ni of the theoft the10ft thesoft
oft Liberty satin ribbon tp gorgeous gorgeouflowered gorgeousflowered OI oUl oUlowered
flowered ribbon and the I xpydftJr th JT JTu An Oaa
u
I
chiffon meseoUne me messali alinoe a or chiffon taffeta ribbon ribbonThe ribbonIbe ribbonsThe
The last la t mentioned arc frequently used u r in inmany 11IDADT inmany
many tone for one girdle but the U lines hnesmust linesmust hn hnmust
must meet harmoniously into one anotherand another anotherand llnothNand
and it U not every everyone ono who ha baa the artist artisteye arlifitere artisteye
eye for such combination combinationOne
One such girdle in chiffon meesallno with witha wiUa
a ebo wer Or of short ends end in the back included includedsilvery IncluddIlIIver1 includedsilvery
silvery gray and all the faded tones dull dullpink dullpink dullpink
pink blue green lavender gold Th Thresult 11JtellUlt Theresult
result wo wag OH admirable M the millinery millineryachievement millineryachwTtment millineryachievements
achievement In tloso tl m tones turned tur d out outby outby outby
by BO some n of the Parisian milliners miilinorsLess millinersLem mUllnersLeM
Lem unusual and yet almost a as difficult difficultof dimeultof
of successful construction was a 1 wide wideglrdk ridegirdle ldI ldIglrdlo
girdle of chiffon ch on roenallne me mUne In American Americanbeauty Amerlnmbeauty merlronreauty
beauty shades from tho lightest American Americabeauty Americanbeauty AJnriCllbeauty
beauty pink to the ik deepest iwst I t American beauty beautyrod beaut beautrod beautyrod
rod Tho luntro lu tro of tho witiny U ilhlwn and andtlx nnltho nnttlo
tlx > glowing harmony of color wrro weretogether al altogether 01togeU ¬
together togeU r charmingrho charming charmingTho ctllrmlngl11o
Tho American beauty shades bltdc lire ore by tho thoway 1Mway thnway
way very much liked thU wason lIJIOn efpccially efpcciallyIn elpeclallyInmlJllncry
In millinery InmlJllncrylWOuS millineryItOOUS millineryROOJIS
ItOOUS MADE TO SUIT DKAlTY DKAlTYTflilte DrACThlle REJCTItfldte
Tflilte hlle for the lr Gray ra y Ilalrrd Rosy ncs n > Woman Womanf Womanott IfomanSoft
f Soft oft HrowTis to bet t Off U Iced l hair IlalrIts lIalrte hairIts
Its te a good thing when you OU are going to topaper topo topaper
paper po per and fix up a room to work up a color colorscheme oolorscheme colorscheme
scheme that will wUlaet set off some special treas treasure treMUte treasure ¬
ure you may have in the way of furniture furnitureor
or ornament Ive worked tho color colorscheme colorschome colorscheme
scheme of my room up to my bit of old oldtapeatry oldtapc oldtapeetr
tapeatry tapc try said a woman to tho caller call r who whowas wboas whowas
was as rbapsodlring over a beautiful room roompapered roomPl1pered roompapered
papered in the IOft softest oft t of deep browns broymtThat brownsThat br01 l l11uJt
That bit of tapestry la the joy of my myheart m1heart myheart
heart Its It valuable old and lovely loel But Ilutnobody Du Dunobody Butnobody
nobody would notice it t t especially o In a roomdone room roomdone roomdone
done in any other color colorItlant colorIt it isnt big enough enoughNow eDoughSow enoughNow
Now everybody noUces it at onoe simply simplybecause llimplybecaUBO simplybecause
because IU soft light browns look so o stun stunning eronnlng stunning ¬
ning against the dark brown paper It t tthe 11 11I uthe
the feature of the room and gives gvll8lt it a dis d4Ungulehed distinguished dfItlnllllllhed ¬
tinguished air because it 11 I so choice choiceI
I I got tho idea I from a woman who ho bad badworked badworked badworked
worked up a room of her to act off a very verycharming Tmycharming verycharming
charming peach pink vase va e that she ha hadThe had hodThe
The advantage I bare over her 1 is that my mykeynote mykeynote mykeynote
keynote for color cant break breakEren breakEen breakEven
Even if I anything should happen to the thatapetry thetap thetapestry
tapestry tap try the brown room Ls a moat effectivo effectivociting etJect1Teletting effectfygetting
citing for your coloring cuggoatod auuest < < 1 ths thecaller thsoallor thsoallor
oallor oallorThe oallornle callerfhe
The hoU hostess s blushed as though the idea ideabad fwhad ideahad
had occurred to her beforo beforoIvo I IIvo l1vo
Ivo often wondered why hy women dont donttake don dontalce donttake
take their own o coloring oolori ooloriagInto into account in indecorating Indecorating Indecorating
decorating their rooms I know ono woman womanwho womanwho womanwho
who has Her hair is perfectly rfrctly gray but butshe buthe butshe
she he U l so young It Rlvca tlu tho effect of being beingpowdered btlngpowderrd Delngpowdered
powdered hair She always wears white whitowhen whltowhen whitewhen
when she receive n > ce1t and she II receive in a aperfectly 1 1plrlectJy aperfectly
perfectly white drawing room Tho whnl whossroom whnlroom wholroom
room is a a Betting for her face which Is l tho thocolor thocolor thecolor
color of a rose loaf loa In any other room roomyou roorrou roomyou
you would Bay that she wa 11111 a very pretty prettywoman prettrwoman prettywoman
woman In that whlto room of h be hee a you youcall youcall 01J 01Jcall
call her ravishingly beautiful beautifulThe beautifuLThe beautifuLThe
The sunlight was u glowing over the thahofttoflss tboho thehostesss
hofttoflss ho e < II1 wealth of golden red hair on she shesat sheeat bo bosat
sat pouring tea beneath her precious tapes tapestry tIlRMtry tapestry
try and tho caller found herself rather rathersceptical ratherlCtptlcal rathersceptical
sceptical about the idea that the brown brownroom brownroom brownroom
room had been planned plann d to offset the tapes tapestry tApestry tapestry ¬
try tryTRAVELS tryTRAnU tryTIIA1ELS
TRAVELS OF HOTEL ELEVATORS ELEVATORSFrom EIm4TORFrom ELEIATonsFrom
From 10 to SO BlUrs a Month for KTMT KTMT1OO i rrry
100 Fret of Shaft Ti f the Average AimerNobody ATIra AverageNobody t tNobody
Nobody who spends much time in the thaskyscrapers thoIkyScrapers theskyscrapers
skyscrapers can help noticing the Increased Increasedspeed Increneedllpeod Increasedepeod
speed attained att ned by tho elevators nlnoe the thaIntroduction th8IntroducUon theintroduction
Introduction and perfection of tho safety Mfetyclutch IIdfetyclutob safetydutoh
clutch This Increase in speed applies appliesto
to the elevators in apartment house and andhotels andhoteJa andhotels
hotels equally equnllywlth with those In office buildings buildingsthough buildingsthough buildingsthough
though the hotel elevator la usually still stilltho aUIIthe stillthe
the alower oa it always alwaYllJaa baa been beenTho beenThe
Tho maximum speed for a passenger passengerelevator passengerelevator I 8Enger 8Engeroleator
elevator In ordinary use LSO has been reached reachedfor 1OOcIINIlor reachedfor
for the present pJ llent at any rate In a Doano Doanostreet Dunnnstreet Dwannstreet
street office building where one runs with witha
a rapidity averaging from 000 to 700 feet feeta
a minutetome minute minuteSorao minuteSomo
tome Interesting Intere llng experiment prporlmen have just justbeen ju justbeen t tbeen
been made by the Ldlson L < ueon Company to d ddtnarv rids ridscover U Ucoor
cover what hat distance Is covered by the or ordll1l1l ordinary
dtnarv hotel elevator ee tor in the course of a amonths amonths amonths
months travels In ono apartment hotel hotelin hOlplIn hotelin
in which them are two passenger elevators eSevatorand olatolland elevatorsand
and asbaft II shaft 310 feet high traveiling tm tmvellingordlnari lJinlt ordinari1 y
250 feet a minute tho elevators covered in a amonth amonth amonth
month ion and itt Ii miles n loa A freight elevator elevatoralmost cleIltoralmost elevatoralmost
almost half as 111 fa fast t covered in the sameperiod same sameperiod I14meperiod
period only oDI S2j 3 12 j mile mileThe mil milThe milesThe
The two elevators in anqther hotel one onewith OMwith onewith
with a 154 and the th other a 21S foot shaft shaftcovered shaftcovered ohahooered
covered 1M mile and H9i HC miles In a 1 inoib inoibtravelling IDOIUtm mon b btravelling
travelling tm cUing 150 feet a minuteTho minute minuteTho minuteThe
Tho conclusions reached were that in inhotel inhotol inhotel
hotel ncrvioo a busy bl1 > l elevator ciwtomari ciwtomaritravels Clhltomarltraelll customarivtravels >
travels from SO f to fo w o miles rnlk > a I month for crpiee crry ftV
100 fe feet t of halt nod conminiea approxi approximately IIpproxl IIpproxlmatc1y apprnxnmately ¬
mately 2 kilowatt hours hou of electricity f fr frevery freet r revery
every eet car mile mileMAY mileI
I MAY MANTON MANTONPATTERNS
PATTERNS lOcts 10 its each
4 45321o40 45321o40MAY n 10 40 40MAY
MAY MAVTOV MA TUII CATALOOVB
pee Pee r Uful IIKuriilomrif IlIuuaUoIU lOt Uy mall l if ifMAT OrMAY r rMAT
MAT MANTOX JfA TOoI lATTKn1 I pArr lTEnJlt gu tx txtl lu luxl V Vsa
tl JHfUrt HUD aT T N 1 T Tl
TUN OUitloor m l lboortlaavgltote Door MA ATS Hotel Or snr Drl UAV at UAN UANTOf Il 1
TOf Armey MM1 ail ISm praapilrAUrd