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The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, November 04, 1906, Second Section, Image 20

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Persistent link: https://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn83030272/1906-11-04/ed-1/seq-20/

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t a
ou ttju1 PAY 050 FOR 1 LACKAD
AD MVKV fAltlK COVEItrtllow
rtllow r m at HSU arid More a Pair fliertaat
a112S and IDTowtIs COt 8123OAplreeKiicli
AplreeKiicli Tlilnni Not Only Ilotichtbut
buL Also ned by New York WomenThe
The price of a linen and lace table coverround
round in hnpe and about three and onehalfyards
yards in diameter shown at tho autumnopening
opening of a department store Wi SOioOThe
The cloth bad 0 glO CI to Alf adqund
queened it In tho household linen sectionWomen
Women ignorant of lace values andwomen
women who can tell at 1 glance the kindand
I and probable cost of any Inc shown tothem
them alike worshipped before it commenting
menting rapturously on the many differentvariation
variation of lar represented con plcuoulamong
among which were squares and oblongs ofJt
Jt allan filet Inserted between rows of cluny4uchoH8
4uchoH8 point do Venlso and picked pInt Ithe
the last being used in the border in thf for Iof
of groups or small figures illustrating Mtorical
torical and mythological subjectA
A tea clothperhaps a little more than oneyard
yard In diameter tho price uOi whichdrnjied
drnjied 0 mal tablo not far from tho casewas
il also embellished with many squares ofJlnlian
Jlnlian nine lace which a saleswoman explained
plained is having a vogue ot present withJow Iew
Jow York women with those aLI lt whocan
I can afford to pay largo prices and Indulgoto
to almost any extent the habit of collectingilecoratlvo Itccratvo
ilecoratlvo linens which of lute has attackedthe
the wealthyluiost II
I mot without oxoepllon It H pointed outthe ithe
the newpr and handsomer New York housesinclude IIncude
include n linen clo trot a dark affair butA iclott
Incude lnen
A closet arranged with 11 door which given in
n view of the tnBsuren spread upon theshelves il1hR
shelves Ann result no sort of ld or tablelinen I
linen In too costly to importKxamplns
Kxamplns like thone quoted and manyther Ithen
> then which include more taco than linennrv II
nrv becoming more und more plentifulIndicating
Indicating every year an increased tendencytoward
toward elaboration In draping beds andtables
tables At non of tho most noted linenftores
I ftores of Now York which hal been in business
t ness for fiftytwo years and which is nowfelling
felling hocus to the granddaughter of itsearliest
I earliest customers n member of tho firmmlmitted
mlmitted the other day that he
fllmlttd was importing
ing finer Inn now than ever before androlling
rolling goods today which even ten yearsago
ago he never dreamed of putting in stockgoods
goods which at that time were only Importedto
to fill Bfx rial onlersThe
The New York woman said he 9iIuykg
luiykig finer linens and buying them inlarger
larger quantities than ever before for thereason
I reason that tho wealthy today use thegnoro
gnoro costly specimens all the tie and notHike
Hike the old fashioned
wealthy fafhlomd housekeeperV
only on state occasions Even people inmoderate
moderate circumstances make use of muchfiner
finer household linen than formerlyTake
Take for instance the practice of embroidering
broidering a monogram initials or a creston
on sheets pillowcases tablecloths andbapkins
bapkins UI now universal Often adozen
dozen napkins retailing for 9 will cotdltlonl 24ptdditional
t ptdditional for an embroidered monogramvhereas
vhereas in tho old days thoy would probably
ably have gono unlettered or else had afemall I
femall inexpensive marking in inkTlio I
The cubtom of marking linen with indelible
delible ink practised not many years agoby
by fashionable Xew Yorkers has completely
pletely paS Down to glass and pantrytowels
towels household linen must now have anembroidered
embroidered monogramTablecloths
Tablecloths at present ore markedith
1 ith two monogram one nt either end ofthe
the cloth or diagonally at opposite cornersSheeta
Sheets and pillow cases have a largo embroidered
broidered monogram placed back of thehemstitching
hemstitching drawn work embroidery orJace
lace insertion which decorates the edgeFrom
From example shown at this store Itwas
was learned that preference is given justnow
Sow t monograms of English openworkembroidery
French thedesign
embroidery and of seeding as
design i called although the raised Englishembroidery
embroidery and French and Italian eraJbroldcry
Jbroldcry of differing degrees ot heavinesspnd
pnd Intricacy of pattern are almost aspopular
1 There1 are aistoiuers it Is said who neverchange
change the style of their monogram although
though they may have changed the sizoof
h of it the up t date examples being largerthan
than formerly The style of embroiderydoes
does not matter at nil but it I of consequence
quence that the monogram should be anywhere
where from three t eight inches in diameter
z ter
At this linen house a roomful of womenare
t are kept busy doing nothing but embroidering
erlng monograms and initials at pricesabout I I
about four times an high Q those chargedfor
for the same work In France Italy or Germany
many the proprietor admitted addingthat
that in spite of this factcomparativelyfew
few of the New York womenwho makea
a practice of visiting Europe every fewmonths
months buy much bed ane table linen onthe
the other side for two reasons first thatthe
the duty on such goods I CO per centtecondlv
tecondlv that In ordering at home if theDuality
Duality of the linen or tbe marking or theprice
price doesnt happen to suit a customershe
she can more easily get back at the merchant
Jfor durability and weight Irish linen ishiehly
hiehly recommended by the importers thoContinental
Continental linens as a rule being lighterIn
In weight Of the embroidered and lacecase
trmme varieties of cllel and piowcl
case the more elaborate and beautifularc
arc mostly product of FranceThe
The fall importations of bheeta of thefancy
f fancy design are trimmed back of thewide
wide hem with from one t fifteen inchesof
L of openwork or raised hand embroider
r with a one and a two Inch insertion ofdrawn
wlt work the buyers monogram inevery
every case being added t suit individualpreference
Pillow eases both of the French modelwhich
which means they are square opening atthe
the back and of the usual oblong hap
come t tnatch tho sheets some eXcluhltlye
fine varieties bringing as much as 0 andmore
I more a pair the sheets of heavier weavebout
leoorted with Ibnlar embroidery costingabout
but double that sum a pair One cMtnl
favorite French pillow cases in docoratedabout
about four Ice back from the edge witha
a half inch insertion of sH ke or ladderhemstitching
hemstitching and has 0 hand embroideredA
acallopad edge It PIH at the rat of 1 1a
A pair Shat similarly decorated withhemstitching
hemstitching and with no scallops of courseeo
cost 9 a pair for the 72 by g inch sizoA
A pillow case of oblong shape and 22 bySO
I inches the hem finished with 1 row ofhemstitching
hemstitching behind which f a row of smallembroidered
embroidered wild rosex sells at the rate ofS
J 14 a pair and sheeta t match for 25 anda
30 a pairPillow
1 Pillow case of the Kama size finishedimply
imply with a hemstitched hem may b
had o low II a pair sheets 72 by Dtt inchesto
to match for SUO a pairLinen
Linen are lower m price than they weredeaadft
decade ago said the dealer and thatIn
In spite of the fact that America is obligedto
1 t import all the fine b and table linentmeses
eue o so far manufacturer here havefound
found It impossible t grow lux of thequality
t quality and consistency of the Europeanarticle
article or t weave the imported flux into
linen which shall how the pwulhir softmellow
mellow leathery finish of tho IFih Scotchliermaa
Oerm Belgian and Austrian linen Itna
a question of climate largely not a < rupilniiof
of meohanlcal appliances or mtholcal
skill the bleaching proceiMM rf the oldIn
country having a Jot t du with the superiority
ortT of their Iner
In buying towels the wise hoiaekeperwill
will bu1nl th old blcmob variety Theyt
t i
cost only 0 trifle more than the othersand
and for the reason that the damask orhuckaback
huckaback or cnwh represented has beenbltueh Ibltahll
bleached by natural processes out of doorslntod
lntod of by chemicals in a factory Asto
t materials the huck towel lead all therest
rest A few old fashioned people cling t
a damask towel tat the great majoritydemand
demand the buck seine designs of whichnruund
by the way how a damask border a
nruund the towel or fancy damask figuresuch
such us the fleur do lie the clover leafttin
the chrysanthemum woven InThese <
These however are not nearly so ornateas
as JI0 varieties which Introduce fancyweaves
weaves like blrdeye dice and others lossweave
Iko blrye
odmmuplace and which like the regulationweave
weave are either handsomely embroideredor
or have an elaborate borer of drawn workor
or of medallion of old Venetian or otherheavy
heavy lace at ont endIn
In fact the latent vogue in toweU showsa
a demand for hand embroidery Ever
day towels even or what some housekeeperscan
can afford to use every day show a rowof
ca t us
afor ever
of embroidery of irregular design bakof
of the hem ornamenting the plainest huckaback
back This variety costs from J12 t SOOa
bck ThR
a dozen according t size and qualitysome
some kinds bringing a much o 1080 I
Huck towels with drawnwork bordersor
or trimmed with decorative laces cost from
225 to 1250 each On the other hand a14x27
14x27 inch old bleach huckftowel hemstitched
stitched sell just now for as little as 360a
a dozen the 27x43 Inch size Of heavyquality
quality costing from It td 118 a dozluoxiO Acosts
oxiO inch damask towel of beautiful qualyCFt
costs from 3 to 450 a dozen larger sizesranging
ranging in prico from 11 t 118
I It in table linen though that the a
vance noticeableThe in quality and ornate features U mostnoticeable
The finest damask money con buytho
tho merchant declared is none too goodfor
for the New York housekeepers and it hascome
come to pass that there are now abut
pM in damask tableclothsfrom
r 00 different deHlgsl dmlk tabl8lot1
from which toeleotWe
We are cutting fewer round tableclothsthan
than formerly even though the round tablecontinues
continues to b fashionable for the reasonthat
that it is more difficult t launder smoothlya
a round than a ttjuaro tablecloth All ourhigh
high grade cloths are imported square andwo
wo afterward cut them round to orderthe
the of tho damask generally
pattern dlmak genrmly permitting
pttr And it has been dscovoredthat
that drooping corners give a more graceful
clothOf ful effect to the table than f0re circularcloth
Of tho 500 patterns In damask now placedat Iot
at tho disposal of tho shopper the leadersare Iare
are undoubtedly the Empire Louis XIVLouis
Louis XV and Louis XVI and certain conventional
ventional and geometrical design
suggest the classicalin
Flower are always In demand but dstncUvely
tncUvely floral desIgns r mOre ppulorIn
in the lower than in tho higher priced damasks
masks For instance there were seen abeautiful
beautiful Louis XVI scroll in a damaskcloth
cloth almost o lustrous as satin the scrollcovering
covering a square centre and arranged in n
1 Ilaro arnge
fourteen inch wide border an Empirewreath
wreath design tho wreath festooned grnqefully I
fully to form a deep border for 0 narrowirborder
border and a centre of small ovals alsoIn I
In wreath effect and an Empire band pattern
tern consisting of a succession of leaflikascrolls
scrolls which are identical only with thofiner
finer grade tableclothsThese
These cloth cost from 7 to f30 Napkinsto
to match cost from 5 to IUI a dozen beforetho
tho monogram is added for which there Isa
a charge of from 5 cents to 9 eachPlain
Plain satin damask without any patternat
at all i now much in demand for bothdinner
dinner and lunch cloths this being deo
rated with laco and drawn work designs doneby
by had IAs
As a guide to the shopper who wantsthe Itho
the newest fashions in lace cloths centrapieces I
pieces tea cloths dollies Ac hero in brifefM i
s M a few pointspossible
possible include a square or two ofItSlIan
ItSlIan filet lace in tea tray or dinner clothThere
There may be differences of opinion as tote
the beauty of filet lao but there is noquestion
question that for the time being it is oneof
of the most popular Fie and broderieanglalso
the notchOf
anglalso in conjunction are at thl top
Of styleFlorentine
Florentine Byzantine Burano and creponlaces
laces are also in high favor and less costlyas
as a general thing than duchess point deVenice
Venice pointdo Bruges and others Acrepon
crepon trimmo dinner cloth for exampleninety
ninety Inches In diameter showing elaborate
ate entredettx of tho lace may be boughtfor
for S and 0 tea cloth of the same design
54 by 54 inohes for 110Byzntne
Byzantine lace is lighter than clunyand
and 0 dinner cloth deeply bordered withit
it a wide insertion trimming the centrewill
wIll cost about 100 if minetynine inches indiameter
diameter Moro profusely trimmed theprice
price will be from double that sum upto
to 300Burano
Buno Is more in demand for centreplecea
pieces and t cloths than for dinner clothsplate
Old Venetian lace lJ also high I favor forplt
plate doylies cei replaces tea and luncheoncloths
cloths and Chinese hand embroideredgrass
clots linen centrepieces n among theinexpensive
inexpensive novelties a S Inch diameteruizo
size coating only Sl I these the dragondesign
design in tho favoriteTho
Tho handsomer lace dinner and teaclotlm
cloths are draped preferably ovWr purewhite
white aredrp and the some i true oftho
the lace bedspreads and tho lace cover forthe
the head roll which on tho fashionablecouch
couch takes the place of pillows duringthe
the day
The Marie Antoinette lace bed sot In onepiece
piece to are the b and the bolster rollloo
to Is undoubtedly the most liked Itsprico
price is for 0 double b from t up
Renaissance and Arabian lace sets doublesize
size may be purchased from S upThe
The Marseilles counterpane howeverbeautiful
beautiful has hadits day and is no momin
in the smart New York household Itsplace
place has been taken by the counterpaneof
of smooth satin finished cotton or linendecorated
decorated with a raised or embossed floralor
or conventional design The effect is ofbrocaded
brocaded sateenJIODCIRRIER t
Kouitli fie May Seem hut Gentle lie May IJenay
nay of ItiindllnK IlrlckThe IThe
The hodcarrier may seem t handlebrok j
brick in a rough and ready slambangsort
sort of fashion and thats the way he doeshandle
handle some brick lining brick and brickfor
for walls to be plastered or for other similarordinary
where wont showCarrying
ordinary uses they IhowCarrln
Carrying such brick he sets the hod downto
to stand on Its handle and then tips It forwar
ward or it may be that he tilts it forwardwhile
while it is still renting on his shoulder t
let thebrick slide out of it to fall with a crashon
on the platform or on the pile by the bricklayers
layers side to knock their corners offor
or to splinter or smash I they want t
Seeing the hodcarrier handle such brickyou
you might think that was the only wayhe
he knew but you ought to nee him cr
lag fine face brick for building front
These piled up in the street with itrawbetween
between the layers or it may be with eachbrick
brick wrapped in a corrugated cardboardwrapper
wrapper for their protection from injuryhe
he loads into his hod with care so as not t
chip or mar them and then with his hodduly
cip an ten
duly loaded tem mounts the ladder andpasses
passes loee the scaffold platform withcare
care till he comes to the bricklayer he issupplying
supplying And there ho doesnt dumpthe
the hod but he set itdown from his shoulder
der gently to rest for a moment on itshandle
handle while he shifts his bands to its headthis
this movement being made quite in theWhnt
usual manner but then he neither dumpsthe
the bo nor lets the brics fall out of It Inlily
any way
What he does now as he stands holding
the hod up hi to place hU two hands oneon
on either side across tho open end of thehod
hod at the front to the brick thereso
so holding them in firmly to keep themthem
from slipping out and then thus holding
them ho inclines the head of tus hod forward
ward and carries It bricks and all gently
downward until tho backs of al handsrest
rest on the platform and then ho withdrawn
drawn his hands and MB the bricks thnt tilehod
hod had contained rest upon the platformwithout
without 0 jar or even a sound and then heIr
lifts the tied away from them so depositing
the bricks there in I trim little stack atthe
the bricklayers hand and with cory brickperfect
perfect without mar or blemishWith
With hid hit pushed hack and his clnvllmay
may care air the hodeiirrior lon dumpinga
a hodful of rough brick might seem up tothat
that only but If you should nee him handling
fine face brick you would realize that likemot
mot men ho has another side
J t
MU Dolly After a HHicn Extmdlnc OverAll
All Aft and All Countries tiomrthlneof
of a Back Number Nowlirr fiuecewnil
nil Rival Only About a Year OldDolla
Dolls long cherished idolized dolls aretielng
Doll lng chrbed Idolzl dols
being supplanted childish heart by I nowtoy
toy bears Teddy beam they are calledFrom
From all quarters of the globe comes thodemand
demand for Teddy bean with poor MisDolly
Dolly gazing wofully out of her wide openeyos
eyes powerless t prevent the slipping awayof
of her power This is achange at once sudden
den and
de ad surprisingIt
I would be wife t nay that no matterwhat
what sort of toy was first made a doll mustsurely
surely havebeen the second The reign oftho
the doll has been extended over ever
country savage and civilized since anyrecords
records exist of
reor toysModern
Modern dolls have become works of artFew
Few persons would ever have been inclinedto
to predict the downfall of Miss Dolly HOfirmly
firmly has nho bern entrenched in everylittle
little girls heart
But even email maidens can be ficklewhen
when new and lovable Joys come alongThe
The owners of dolls evidently have noqualms
qualms whatever in thrusting Miss Dollyaside
aside to endure lonely fate and i showering
lag affection on Mr Teddy Bear insteadIt
I is said that there are 1000 differentkinds
kinds of dolls manufactured today whilethere
there are only two kinds of Teddy bean
large or small the white bear and tho cinnamon
mon bear Ninetyeight cent I the er
age price for a doll of good sie Such dollIB
IB American made with head constructedof
of sand and glue and I body of cotton e
celsior or mayhap sawdust Teddy beanare
are not 0 very cheap toy the smallest ot
ing IIDut
But the Teddy bear has a lovely softfurry
furry coat which one can rub onea cheeksagainst
against contentedly or which ones fingersstroke
stroke delightedly Perhaps it was becauseof
of this warm coat that the Teddy bear wonhis
his way straight t childish heartKEEPING
Preserving the Hair line a ImportantMatter
Matter Often Overlooked Care ofOne
One Fading Locks Wonders Done WithIJttle
Little CurlThe New Marcel WaveIn
In Washington there Is a woman whohas
has set up a establishment for the culture
ture of the hair She Is from Paris andshe
she brings over with her the Marcel wavein
in its improved condition She also bringssome
some formulas which are guaranteed t
make women beautifulMy
My coming here was a necessity saidshe
she I had three letters a day for threemonths
months and during the Paris season at leasta
a dozen American women called and askedme
me t visit the United States So I packedmy
my trunks and cameYou
You see It is a fact that no woman knowshow
how t dress hair like the French womanThat
That is the reason why French maids aro insuch
such demandThey
They know how to do up the hair English
lish maids do not understand It and American
can maids are absolutely hopeless from mypoint
point of view but 1 French woman wiimake
make you look like a girl I am here t
carry my patrons through tho Washingtonseason
My principle in treating tho hair ieto
to make it look nice Most hair culturtetasimply
simply treat the hair and they dont carehow
how it looks while they are treating itI I
I shall never forget the time I was treating
ing tho Duchess of X I did up her haireach
each day and prepared her for her eveningconquests
One morning she sent for me in n rageUngrateful
Ungrateful one she cried it is thus thatyou
you would treat me Impossible brute of awoman
womanHeceive Iiteceive
Heceive my apologies said I anddeign
deign to tell me whut Is tho matte I
For reply the duchess rose in her chairshe I
she was seated in front of her drsRigtbleand
table and without 0 word she pickedup
up a handglass and flung it at me I againbegged
begged t know the reason ttf her wrathUt
Ut Is this said she that you are notdoing
doing my hair as it should be done Lastnight
night I saw a gray lock shining at me Itis
is preposterous and it I all your faultI
I apologized again Then I took 0 lookat
at her hair and sure enough there was atiny
tiny lock almost white in Iu graynessI
I treated It and in a little while It wasblack
black again The natural color was 0glollY
glossy brilliant ebony the cclor one sorarely
rarely seesI
I make it a special task where the hairis IIs
is whitening t go over tho roots every daywith I
with a tiny toothbrush dipped in castoroil I
oil I do not use more than ten dropsmonth amonth I
month for I keep the brush wrapped InoUe
oiled paper and I seldom do more thanmoisten
moisten itOf
Of course the hair must not b oilybut
but I one is clever ono can slightly dampenthe
the roots with oil without oiling the hairThen
Then I make I hair tonio which hassome
some quinine in it and with this I moistentho
the hair once in a while and 8 I keep itfrom
from getting gray But my greatest efforts
fort are spent upon the hair line Keepingthe
the Hair line Intact Is a distinct ar and fewunderstand
understand itDo
Do you know what I mean b the hairline
line I not then it i only necenary t
attend social gathering to thomeaning
attnd a sca gtherng t grasp tomenl
There is Mrs A for Instance whowould
would be a very pretty woman were it notfor
for the hollows ib her temples And thereis II
i Mr B who would olio be good lookingwere
were it not for the hollows at the bock ofher i
her neck Mm O i bald around the earsSo I
So it goes through the whole listNow
Now you can dress the hair ever soprettily i
prettily and you can pile It up with oombsand
and fancy pins and you can wave it untilyou I I
you are tired but if the hair line Isntgood
good you might as well give upIt 1
c Mrs D who sent for Jn Immediately
ately after my arrival hereMy I
My hair said she Is awful Pleasetell
tell me what in th matterThe
The trouble laid I f with your hairlino
lino which I bad Look at these hollowsat
at your temples Thy go right book almost
most t tho crown of your head Whydont
dont you treat them and make th hairgrow
grow In themPlease
frow Please do it for mo said b
And I didMaking
Making the hair grow along the hairline
line isnt always easy particularly it thohair
hair has been neglected but It can be don I
I make a little lotion of my own whichI I
I urn steadily It consist of just enoughrod I
rod vosnllnn to make a thick creamy mit
urn and juat enough almond oil t makerit
I soft and easy t W
NI warm It ono in a while and apply I
with a brush going all th way aroundiha
th hair line a carefully as though 1 wr
painting a portrait M Indeed I a And
To scores now offer blanket and cap t
keep him worm in winter Children ore farmore
more solicitous of the comfort of their newtoy
toy than they were of Mla DollysWhy
Why do you love your bear more thanyour
your dol was asked of one little girl whosearms
arms hugged her treasure tightlyBecause
Because my Teddy bear loves me backshe
she replied quickly
o the foreign stoCk of bears uatfl the d
mand eon far exceeded the supply ftbecam
becam a norious problom how to supply themarket
market The doll trade fell of
Yes it true that the bears are outsellingdolls
dolls this fallsaid a member of the firmthat
that imported the first Teddy bean Wecould
could sell a thousand dozen bean a day ifwe
we had them but we havent
Another little girl with a monstroustear
bear in her arms wart riding in a trolleycar
car Her mother gave the creature agentle
gentle pul
Dont exclaimed the child Hestired
tired See how ho Ioes roeThis
This may b the explanation of whythe
the Teddy bears d < but as 0 toy was soimmediately
immediately successfulIt
I is perhaps fitting that the rival of MisDolly
Dolly herself largely a product of Germanywhen
when she is of good ancestry should bo anative
native of the some country For fifteenyears
years past Sfarguerita Steiff has madestuffed
stuffed animal toys like the boar her specialty
cialty She conceived the idea of the Teddybear
bear which was put on tho market a yearago
ago All tho past summer tho popularityof
of the bear increased amazinglyOn
On their return t town the childrenmode
moo strong and steady purchase of Teddybears
bears The United States drew heavilyin
in a short time I have the pleasure of seeingtho
tho hair begin t sprout where ono therewas
was a desertI
I did this for my pationt and she saidOh
Oh thank youP with tear of joy MdOb
Then I changed the color of her hairthough
though I knew it wan not the thing to doBut
But I did it 8 carefully that it was notnoticeable
noticeable I made it slightly bloomPeople
People noticed bow well she was looking
ing but they did not divine th causunamely
namely that tho color of her hair had beenslightly
slightly lifted Lifting is th only wordto
t apply to this change in colorI II
I took her hair and I shampooed Itand
and whilo it was 6tldamp Chmp itin
in a very weak solution of henna tea Inuulo
nuulo it from five cents worth of hennaleaves
leaves and I merely sozzled her hair init
it a minute She was a woman of 40 and itwas
was immensely becoming
I use 1 great deal of false hair thoughthat
that isnt exactly the term for tho littlemonts
curls I employ I call them nlr ornaments
ments the tiny curls which I pin on her
and thereI I
I use them a I see best I buy I
them by tho yard and select the littlestrings
strings D suits my fancy I
There Is one of my customers who isafflicted
afflicted with a high forehead and 1 terriblehair
hair line I make hor up as carefully asthough
though I were dressing 0 manikinI
I use tiny pin curls upon her templesfor
for her temples are bare and pin curlsback
back of her ears for her ears are withered
ered and I put 0 little wisp of them in thohollows
hollows at the back of her neckThen
Then I marcel her hair on the Improve
plan and I place Colonial comb in it oneof
of those tall combs that are handsomeenough I
enough 11 by themselveslf
lf tho hair is very poor Indeed I putIn
In pin curls and mrc lJr sot countless
less little ringlets around the knot ThenI
I put in an antique comb one of those dullgold
gold affairs that are to handsome for anybut I
but the daintiest of use In this way Irnako I
make the hair attractiveI
I understand my business and when thohair I
hair is black I make the most of it Awoman
woman came in the other day with hair likeebony
ebony It was long and black and ratherheavy
heavy but it was not groomedThere
There were gray hair scattered throughit
I and the rest of tho hair was rusty looking
So I got at itI
I took the hair and I washed it Then Iput I
put a glossy substance in it to make It sbineI
I treated the hair to make it grow prettilyaround
around the face and I finally waved it in thenow
now way When I bad finished it tim womanwas
was a pictureWaving
Waving the hair In the new way I Rome
done thing of u job I must be 8 carefully
doneTho waves arc very deep and this re
quires much patience You must hole thotongn
tongs while you count 6 very slowlyThe
The object is to take all moisture out ofthe
the hair and make it dry and wavy I youtry
try to do it in less time you will not succeedand
It takes a full minute for each wave to dr
and set properlyThen
Then the new marcel wave must b
combed out This give it the appearanceof
of carelessness I tho apprnc
confbod out they will not be pretty for theywill
will look too deep and too setCurl
Curl heavily and deeply and comb outthoroughly
thoroughly so as t look careless and wavy
That Is the ruleI
I have n way of making the hair looknaturally
naturally wavy by putting the waves inand
after the hair IR done up I tko the tongsanti
and go over it wavin up irregularly Thatgives
gives a very nice look and make it morelife
life like than though I were to havo thowaves
waves lie in the hair with regularity
I tell my patrons not to rough the hairThat
That in a very bad plan and in time it make
one baldThe
The hair grows in tiny scales that lietoward
toward tho tip of the hair I the haironly
Is roughed or bckcrbed the scales arodsturb
disturbed and the hair II destroyed It Isonly
only a short time before it breaks offI
I advise my patrons not to do up thehair
hair at night The trouble is that it isalways
always done up too tightly Then whenone
one lies clown the scalp Is relaxed and thehairs
hairs pullIn
In tho morning there Is n soreness ofthe
the scalp and by noon tho hairs have crinkled
kled up and In a day or so many fall outThnt
That is tho way it worksIf out
If a womans hair la young the womanherself
herself fe pretty sure to younj young forthe
the hair Is 0 terrible giveaway
In theory gray hair ifl beautiful andthe
the more Kay hair tho more honorablebut
but actually few persons want whitehair
hair rhey prefer to keep it Its naturalshade
shade the color It was In youthGray
Gray hair may bo becoming hut It nevermakes
makes any one look younger Put a whitowig
wig on 1 young woman and she may lookquaint
quaint but she doesnt look young
There arc moro brown haired womenthan
than black haired ones and there aromore
more black haired women than yellowhaired
haired ones Rod haired girls are scarcestof
of all and they are the prettiest whenyou
you find themBut
But It ID the brown haired womanthat
that loadM o In point of numbers Thesandy
brown haired girls vary from the palosandy
sandy colored browns to the deep smoothslick
slick seal brown girls The mouse colored
brunette are moat numerous and thancomn
comn the mediumsFor
For the brown haired girl to keep her
hair young Is a hard problem for thf reason
son Hint brown fade quickly I beginrtto
to get streaked when one IH in the early
twenties and by 30 there are white InM
running through it At 40 it Is hmxilwnand
and the brown haired girl looks at her lookswith
with I sighHair
0 Hair gets thin earlier than it used toand
and nearly every woman suffers from I
Tho trouble U that the average woman
does not know how to take caro of It Ifahe
lh did she Would not lone her hah for
the reason that hair is hard to killAnd
And that ia my sermon on hair
OR Trn azvA 0I
Went There on Tier Honeymoon and f4awa
a Mountain Lion Killed Adoption ofTwo
Two Bear Cut Camping neeonvmifoiled
muted to Couple on a HolidayIf
If you ask r Evelyn J Cameron ofOuster
Ouster county Mon what she has gotout
out of her life of camping and huntinghe
she will probably laugh merrily and replyRheumatism
Rheumatism chieflyMrs
Mrs Cameron is the Englishwoman whoIntroduced
Introduced the divided skirt into that partofthe
of the country in tho days before you couldbuy
buy a pattern for one in any departmentstore
store Ever since she was agirl on herfathers
fathers place in Surrey and elected t putIn
In her time shooting rabbits and grousewith
with her brothers instead of doing Cano
work and going t dances sho has beendovoted
devoted t huntingTradition
Tradition how it that Mrs Cameron neverdid
did her own hair before she struck Mont
And nowIve
Ive spent January and February in atiny
tiny Indian tent said Mrs Cameron withtho
the mercury 40 degrees below zero and ournoses
noses and chins were all blistered with thocold
cold And Ive hadmy hair frizzled bylightning
lightning 8 that it made a crackling soundand
and tho people at homo asked me how I cameto
t burn it And Ive had tho tent blowdown
down on mo in a hurricane and have sleptnight
night after night with only a blanket between
tween mo and the frozen groundBut
But the great hunting days are over InCuster
Custer county and the ranchman adRrngtr
granger will see to it that they never returnAbout
About all that is left to the sportswomantoday
today is t hunt with the cameraMy
My first experience in hunting big gamein
in Montana was in 1889 when my husbandand
and I came out here on our honeymoonand
and started In t hunt deer antelope andmountain
mountain lion on Cabin Creek We tookan
an Englishman along t cook for us andhad
had as guide John Montague one of Custcrsold
old scoutsOne
One day the three of us er out whenwo
wo succeeded in starting 0 fine large lionI
I had the first eliot but missed My husband
band and I wore standing on the top of awashout
washout at the tlmoThe
The terrified animal rushed post usand
and into a hole in the washout for safetyMonty
Monty ran below to dislodge It whenfrightened
frightened post nil sense of prudence thelion
lion darted out of his hole and
lon dard jumped rightup
up where we were standingIt
I was then our turn t 0 scared notonly
only for ourselves but for the guide Ashot
shot from my husbands rifle brought downtho
tho lion before ho had had time t do anymischief
mischief howeverThe
The lion measured six feet from tlr1
tip and the taxidermist in Mandan whoset
set it up for us said it was tho largest hohad
had ever seenThe
The mountain lion is big enough andfierce
fierce enough t provide sufficiently excit
ing sport for the average sportsman orsportswoman
sportswoman It was with no little satisfaction
faction that my husband and I
Caclon husbnd accepted aninvitation
invitation to hunt on Pumpkin Creek wherea
a friend of ours had a few days before losttwelve
twelve sheep through the depredations of a I
lion I
lonCs lion had twice been seen devouring I
a sheep which it had dragged out of thecorral
corral and it h been responsible for the
death of no less than twentyeight sheep inWell
Well we hunted mountain lion on Pump
kin Creek all that winter but we Pmp
another chance at one like that we had overon
on Cabin Crook We heard constantly of
lions being sighted and of their jumping
into tho sheep pens and throttling theboles
sheep and we came upon a number of their
holt and smoked them outBut
But wo never had much luck with it allo
10 in the spring of W wo gave it up andstarted
stAre on a bear hunt on tho north sideof
of the YellowstoneTills
Tills time we took ten or twelve horsealong
along with us two wagons for I he horses
feed and our ow provisions and a cookand
and I guide Our trip was to lost twomonths
months Ilom em boring what hard luokwe
we had been playing In with the mourn
tin Hon wo promised Lick our guide 100
if he succeeded in raising a bear gldell0
The Itt night out we camped near tho
bear country Great wan our delight when
the hound began to bay Rising from ou
blankets and getting Into our shooting
togs pout haste we started to follow In
high hopes of running down something
worth whileThere
There sure enough were the fresh
tracks of Q bear Not the slightest doubt
thnt our poor old played out dog had raisedsonm
sonic sport for UK this tlmoWhen
When daylight came we prepared to I
follow up those bear tracks to the bitter t
Ana we din But wo never caught up with
the hear that they belonged toHonru
Honru if you dont happen t know oreinotber
terrible trIBI Thy nor give up
but jUt keepgoing and going aM they can
keep ahead or a man IndefInItely
Another nay when we were out wo saw
what we took to be a mare and foals travelling
along together Looking at theta througt
It U teposslDle tor get enough bean MOWFrom
From all over tbe TJbitcd States cost urgentdemands
demands for 10 and so many bean and wedo
do the best we can to please the tradoOriginally
Originally the creature was made in Germany
many but within the poet few months theyare
are being manufactured hero I Is simplywonderful
wonderful what a run the Teddy bearmakes
makes Of courso It affects the dolls
At nearly all tho big department stores itia
ia the same Even the little toy shoP
announce proudly that they have Toddybean
bean for saleBeam
Beam do not rldo in gocarts or doll carriages
rag and K the children will have nomore
more of conveyance Tha Teddybear
bear i camd in the anna an huggedtightly
Christmasdoll trade certainly falls abortthis
this year declared one storekeeper Weshall
shall have t be careful not to overstockfor
for the Teddy bear baa swept the wholedoll
doll kingdom away Of course dolls willcontinue
continue t be sold but the old record i
Children like novelties Just as grownupfolks
folks do This i a age o progress andtraditions
traditions dont always count you knowAnyhow
Anyhow the doll is becoming a back number
her and who would have believed this possible
the binoculars we found they were a shebear I
bear and two cubs So we made a detourand
and came up with themMv
Mv husband had th first shot He hittlio
the old bear squarely in the side Fallingover
over tho woundea bear made gallant andpathetic
pathetic efforts t shield her cubs from ourrifles
rifles Sne would bang at them first withone
one paw then with the other slapping
them pw hard as she could with her waningstrength
strength t make them get on the farthersloe
sloe of lierXow
Now its your turn said my husbandI
I fired bitting her I the head rightthrough
through the ear She never rose againThe
The cubscensing the bard fact that theirlector
protector was dead got on her boayandold
began t lap Itand nozzle It noing their bestin
In thoirpoorconfuseaway t wan It t It
old motherly warmth ana activity Wecaught
caught them without much difficulty andhaving
trophy having secured them proceeded to skin ourtrophy
We found her astonishingly fat considering
ing that It was In the spring when bearsare
are usually miserably thin with their enforced
for fast of th winter But tim only
food in her stomach was a bit of rawhideHorses
Horses are afraid of bears The scent ofa
a bear 1 often enough t throw them intoa
0 plo Some cannot b induced t ap
preach a bear living or dead ana the attempt
tempt t pack I boar carcass on the back ofyour
your pony will generally cause 1 perfectlygentleanimal
gentleanimal t become unmanageableWe
We experienced a this and more whenwo
wo tried t putour bear hide on the back ofmy
my husbands horse That animal immediately
mediately began t rear and jump andwhen
when tho four of ut using every resourceat
at our command jointly and severally
had finally succeeded In strapping the hideto
to the saddle h began t buck and shyso
so furiously that be succeeded Ia dislodging
the hide which tumbled t the groundwe
bringing down saddle and all te After oilour
our work we had t leave our trophy behindus
us aa It was growing dorkAs
As it was Lisk and I who attempted
t get the two bear babies back t the camp
in safety lost our way in tho darkness and
had t stop while b built I big fire o
0 danger signal My husband who not
being hindered by ou small toddling
charges a able to make Ra time hodAmong
mn tlel
reached camp but seeing our signal fr
rode back and rescued UI
Among ou supplies we hod a case of con
densed milk My first act on reachingIt
camp was t prepare some ot this and fed
It to the cubs fit ran go to say they tookto
to this unnatural food from the first andthrived
thrived on it They much
tbrve Tey were never ofpets
pets still wo all got on very well together
during the remainder of the trip and whenwo
wo got book t Miles City they wore in thepink
pink diet of condition on their condensed milk
dietHaving reached a point of comparativecivilization
civilization I decided that it would bo a
kind and wise thing to put my young chargeson
on 0 diet of cows milk But this experiment
ment failed miserably The cub nearly
died In consequence of it and I had t r
turn to condensed milk in order t save
their livesThe orer 8VO
The London Zoological Garden having
lost Its last grizzly about six months b
fore we decided we could not make 0 bet
ter disposition of our cubs than to give
them t the Zoo So we shipped them offmother
to England Although they had the smomother
mother ono was a silver tip and the othera
0 grizzly Friends of ours who have visited
the Zoo since report having seen them therein
in fine health and spiritsFor an
For the woman with outdoor propensi
ties and a taste for roughing it there in no
life moro congenial than that of the saddleand
and rifle as it may still b lived in parts of
the Western States But to hunt big gamewith
with success or to get any fun out of it onemust
must have the sporting instinct
Where the wife shows any liking at allor
for life in the open I consider a hunting expedition
pedition one of the most desirable ways
for a couple to spend 0 holiday It is way
derful what comradeship is developed be
tween them A I sorts of develop b
away in the long days together on the windswept
swept prairies or in tho gulches and trailsof
of the B LandsPursued tril
Pursued for any length of time bowever
ever the life has a somewhat depressing
effect on the physical forces At least that
has been my experience I cannot boarto
the cold now M well M when I first cam
t Montana and I have had t yield to the
luxury of a mattress Instead of lying outon
on the ano and the watersoakedAfter ground
In defiance of atc neuralgts rhem
ham to bronchitis I and pneumonia 8 I used
After a while the blood D to loseome
some power or quality of resistance Iaccount
account for this on the score of dietNo
No Longer a OenuemanFrnm
Front tile Denttr PoutThe
The members of a football team were Inmy
my car rofcur t another city to play saida
a sleeping car conductor They had t ride
half the night and 1 they took toe sleeper
One youth had W cents to upend and when
he went t bed he decided to hide that moneyo
so nobody would find It When uo one wan
looking h slipped it into the t of one of
his shoe Then ho put the shoe under the
berth une belowWell and went t deep t dream of hb fortune
Well along In th night the porter came
in andhegan his work of shining shoes lie
found the Jays shoes with the 80 rents In Itand
and you ought t have seen him sun is DIsman
man nm uttlniy a wntlntrwn he stud Jen
thlnkleavln me 8 cent jes Co lilackin
his snowMTIJX
MTIJX next meriting when the Player found
bin HO cent Ionl ho nlmoxt tied M litminl lie
minl the porter give him hark hu moni 16
1 Jim tie porter wits mad lie cram i < > ma and
aitidSay boss you know that fler Ah f
WU8a nemn fo Isarlu Ij I cents f4Yei
bhkn bL
Yei I replied
wil ladlB o geasiisj sj
Ui was i lbe u a bnk aJ
I list hut been Started to Meet a Dimf
f ulty Some Women find InOlrlnctnc tpTheir
Their Children and I Is Ton bt I
Will Open a New Cantor for WonirriAn
An entirely nW profession for womensprang
sprang into being the other clay when aclass
class for nursery kindergartncrs andtrained
trained assistants for mothers was openedat
at the Harlem Young Womens ChristianAssociation
Association To Miss Alice Mattlson belongs
longs the credit originating the idea ant
she is teacher of the first clawIt
I la a small olart and tho teacher ac
knowledged that tho work of making thocourse
course popular among American girlwould
would be difficultPerhaps
Perhaps tho terra nursery klndergart netIs
I rather misleading she said Our lelt
is not by any mean to instruct nursemaidin
in kindergarten methods and IdeasA
A graduate will rank decidedly abovetho
tho ordinary nursery governess evenShe
She is not supposed to have anything to dowith
with the care of babies The little one ofthe
the family who are of kindergarten agtfrom
from 1 to e yearn old ore those who willcome
come under her chargeGirls
Girls under 18 are not accepted for thiaclass
clam and only those who have had a goodeducation
education year or two in high school orIts
Its equivalent are eligible In fact youngwomen
women who are in every way qualified forregr
regular kindergarten work but lack the timeor
or means t take expensive ore amthoscrwhomit
thoscrwhomit Ishoped to attract to this newprofession
Wealthy women are everywhere Seekingwell
well educated refined young women togivo
give them intelligent assistance in bringmeup
up their children thereby supplanting thrIgnorant
Ignorant nurse maid sold Miss MattisonEducational
Educational agencies have long lists ofapplications
applications for teachers of this description
tion and th regular kindergarten trainingschools
schools are appealed t continually butalways
always unsuccessfully for pupils willingto
t take such resident employmentThe
The chief objection t a resident placin
in ths minds of most young girls is that itdeprives
deprives them of the free evenings whichthey
they enjoy while in business Still thornis
is the compensation of 1 good home withpractically
practically no expenseVhIto
VhIto the girl who works in an officemust
Wo t worl
must often spend the greater part of hersalary
salary for bar the 40 1 month which Irldent
resident kindergartner can easily command1is
is almost all clear profit Last week Teven
even hear of two positions in each ofwhich
which SO was tho salary offeredEven
Even for dress the expenses otis nurserykindergartner
kindergartner would b small She wouldneed
need a really good suit or two in which totake
take the children out For tho housewhen
when the profession IA better establishedand
and known I hope t Introduce a uniformforwomen
forwomen holding our certificates of training
big on the order of a trained nurse uniform
form which will b respected and car
with it wherever It is
dignity wih wbervr wornStudy
Study for one term of four months entitles Ittles
titles a student t a certificate HR kinderarer
gartner in private families while after to
full course of eight month she gets a diploma
ploma which will enable her to apply forwork
work as assistant kindergartner in secomlarv
ann schools if she prefers to do soKindbrgarten
Kindergarten ideals methods and workform
form th chief study of the course twoafternoons
afternoons 1 freek being dovoted to practice
tice or One afternoon th class takenchnrgo
charge of one of the children clubs whichmeet
meet at the Association building conducting
ducting it on the order of Tegular kindergarten
garten telling with games plays songs and storytelling
Another clara passion i devoted to vit
lag a kindergarten for observation Instruction
struction and practice in tolling stories tochildren
children receive special attention in thclass >
class tb students being made acquaintedwith
with all the best bob and tales uuitabfefor
for children of kindergarten ageIature k
Katuro work in another branch > f thiecourse
cur The nursery kindergartner jstaught
taught how to make information nbouitho
tho moon stare clouds rain and growingthings
things interesting t tho child The studyof
of birds their songs and habits 1 considered
sidered especially necessary and durinrtho
tim spring walk th parks and countrvwill
will 0 token t supplement what has lnvnlearned tlearned
learned of them fat booksDoisarte
Doisarte is Included in the CUI Vjjjfl
practical course In swig and instruct jotIn
In nursery hygiene a also given Timnursery
nursery kindergartner must know when Lchildren
children a properly dreseod and bathrot0thoir
tholr rooms well Tontllatsd and if tliufood t
food served them f what it should beSeveral
Several members of th first clasn onursory
nursery klndargortneru intend to securvisiting
visiting employment only Many motherwhoso
whoso little attend <
WhO lto ones attnd kindergartenthe
to morning are willing to pay S i5 or na ita
a moth to have them cared for by an educated
nested woman tho rest of tho day
No accomplishment I lost in tho RKwho
who applicator a position of the sort svMlsuMattison <
MlsuMattison Ifshaknowsalittlo niuor >
or speaks a foreign language it U 1 gn > uadvantage
advantage But those things are not essential
tial for a successful nursery kindorgartnureither
either visiting or residentIntelligent bIntelligent
Intelligent mothers are realizing thathe
the majority of German and French numwhom
whom they may engage are Ignorant womw twho
who speak their native language badlthe
both as t grammar and accent It is nunwiser
wiser t have them with a vomn wlspeaks
speaks perfectly correct English and cnidirect
direct their recreation intelligently U
I have often eat in the park watcluntrtho
the way in which the Ignorant nurse mamatreat
treat the little ones trusted t their car
They acorn divided into two classes thcareless
careless nurse who goes t talk with hinurse
friends allowing the cldr t anlNthe
themselves as best they may and tho strutnurse
nurse who makes her charges sit priinl1on
on a bench by her slcs afraid to ias
wriggle he si 4mld t 8 mm IIt
It la small wonder that mothers whooan
oan afford it are willing t pay for thservices >
services of a young girl who py be reliiupon
upon t make their childrens play hour
both enjoyable and beneficial Girls wrlive
live at home prefer this afternoon wornwith
with their evenings and part of the dvg
fro t rtnerSme the larger salary prt the roBiclfnSome
Some day however when thee glrlare
are older and n longer live at home tbaYlngof >
aYlngof their board and the
ITof ther br putting awiuof
an te puttng 1
of twice the amount of
t1 te amut money they cmWhile
Qtel do each month will toy
8n important consideration t them an
te want the resident positionsVbile
While the great deB II for youniriciris
girls the course U thought t otTer a geopportunity
opportunity for middle aged women s 1 >
love children and 8 far have found no wpaying
paying professionMark
Mark on PewterMrs
Mrs F H li Ithaca X YlufmiiiK Barlcllllhout
article about fowler and Ire Mark Ir °
In liiK HUN I desire information dIn
Mljicli platter Thu mark on the lmHIP
HIP unions are in one John Tow
nto with a representation of a lnm
foreleg raised and above that a flyi1i
I nyl
In the second
II only thawordgjmn i d i1n t
On the oblong below the word Tree a
blow ordl 1rt
ateclThe London are distinct another word U oblufatecl
The namo of John Townsend is a rntnrone
one among EnaUnh powterern situ I IIAloclated < >
associated at different tlinpo will f
different men Tliomas alma wHo waspartner
partner In 1710 wan Muter of the PewtiirrCompany ICmpany
Company In 17J7The
The word Tree was probably the namtho
the shop wh n they did IMIHIIU H mil fM
M the Sinn of Ihn Trcu LondonKow
Few iilicc of pewter are so rlcnrlv mnranil
and dated iiithln piirtlcMiInrl if tlny hibeen
been in us over ISO years If tlu > pliitiiin
in good condition and U pcrfi ly pinowithout
without decoration It is worth 1 > If It rotravrd 4engraved
engraved or wriggled work it I worth flier

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