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The sun. (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, April 18, 1909, Second Section, Image 20

Image and text provided by The New York Public Library, Astor, Lenox and Tilden Foundation

Persistent link: http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn83030272/1909-04-18/ed-1/seq-20/

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ll ElM III I
1 1 > <
1Illl t cJ cJjl
jl 1lf Slender Si cI r Supple Waistless WaistlessIdeals aistlessr
Ideals of Dress DressTHE DressII
II r H < lI lIl11 I rJ rJH
FU New Beoty B aty In the Linens Linenspongee lnenarl
pongee nllee Very Popular PopularTbe
rl I Jl
j o
I Tbe lIe WeUt alt Line Intl Variable rlable In location lo atlon Whtn WhtnIt ll n ni nIt
It Aptyrmrs A ar at t All Moyen Io n Ane Fash FashIon FhJ
J Ion Ions Presented Pe nted With ith Many Ian Modinca Modincatlons Iodlncf
i tlons JThe e Prlnersie Prlncl le Frock rocl Straight Straightof
I of line an and On Semlritted SemlFlttedlInen SemlFlttedlInenMore IJnen IJnenMore
More Popular Than Pvpr and nd In Many ManyGrades In Inf
f 1 Grades GrdtIFoQlard FoQlaril Morning Iornln frocks l of ofDainty ofDainty
Dainty Nlmpllcltj I > Ilmpll It rVoBne one or Dutch DutchCollar utch
1 Collar ColIrPong Ionfipc Frock and Nklrt and andCoat
1 Coat CostumeModuli o tn lel todllh Material MaterialIf
If you have any an preference in regard regardto
i p to the locution of your own waist line linenow linejliow
It jliow now is thl time tin1f to assert yourself y urliJelf Of Ofcourse
7 course it Ithas has been understood for f r many manya manyayear
a year that natures designs in this matter matterof
of waist lines were of no consequence consequencethat On8equencethat
that the French dressmakers had assumed assumedall
all responsibility rMpQ 1slbllity and would set tue femifA femi
nifie D waist11 jh le wherever fancy prompted promptedbut prolllptedbutthe
butthe but therfttossdtime ia811 time when the great t French FrenchdreBsmakers Frenchm
dreBsmakers m were more or less united unitedand unitedaDd
and when hertone one or or two of them were so sodominant sodomInant
dominant that t t if I Simon said waist line lineupup lineUPiUP
upup went wen tfee waist line in all the work workrooms worlnx ¬
rooms roomsThis nx > lIUL lIULThla
This restful unanimity has vanished vanishedThe
The day of individualism in dressmaking dressmakingAnd
And dreeawearing has arrived and no noSimon noBimonIa
Simon BimonIa allowed to dictate to all fashion
II i iI I
able 1141 womankind All of which does doesnot doellI
I not mean freedom from the bonds of offashion orfhion
I il fashion but Jt merely a wider choice chol in the theelecting
i1 electing of1 the bonds bondsNew bOndsI
I New Ne proftheta pr J ts have arisen ari8enin in the Pa Parisian PaV ¬
V 1 j risian dressmaking world Old auto autocrats a1ltot ¬
t mr crats hare passed Sovereignty iH in di divided dir
r al vided and subdivided subdividedOne subdividedftij
ftij One 8 great house goes lI es over ver to mediipval mediipvalism 1 1I
I ism and nd sends out o t inoyen age ag model modelomit m dellil
II omit of Vhieh W b it must be admitted admittedwould admIttedJ
J J i ff would W ul d give a mcdiievul medi val belle l1e hysteria hysteriaIf
J t If they we w re e shown to her and she wqro wqrotold wljretit
tit told thatthey that they were supposed to be ac acf
f w I
111 r Mi I
cording to her ideas Another famous famousmaker famousmak I II
maker mak r pins her faith to Louis XV linen linenAnother IIncAAnother
Another remains faithful to the Empire Empireand I
and Directory though inclined to co coquette c cquett ¬
quette lightly with the Louis period in incertain Inoeortain
certain details j 1 1Fair
Fair woman may choose what best suits suitsh
Mr h r taste and h hr r flgurn She may wear wearher wearber
her waist line just under I1n her bust slightly slightlyabove 1lghtlyabove
above the normal waist line at tho round roundnormal 1 1norDl4I
normal waist line at the natural line in
id Ide n and bach but running down Hharply
in front 01 dropped below the natural naturall 1
line all the way around in true moyen age apeuhlon
fashion fashionBy uhlony
By y the way Parisian report baa h 3 it tha tbattJ
King Klu Dagobert Dolto ort or at least the I Ill play bear bearing hearin ¬
ing in Ins name is Is largely lar ely responsible for fortht fortht
tht increased InCr 1SM emphasis given this BPUSOII BPUSOIIto
to the mediaeval medi ollillfM linen launched last year yearand yearand
and remembering renlrn ering the old old song which whichKrenoh whichtr
Krenoh tr nh children ntill tmig though tho l h its itssatire ItA8aUru
satire and political olit < III significance signiJ canc were werebuned wpreburied
buried with tliH t h old time JOUR ono smiles smilesslightly smilCJigfitly
slightly at firidoiR le bon roi Dagobert Dagobertheading Da obert
heading headin a fashion etnlutlon rfoilltlonOne etnlutlonOne
One mornmg mornjng yeus ago n o we shared a asunny a8unny
sunny benchin bench in the Luxembourg OimlenR OimlenRwith OirdenRwith
with a fat fatnnll ami friendly flench nurse and anda
a small solemn II eyed fY French boy hhn hhnwas Hh Hha8
was a8 amusihg amusih ham t m by teaching > him old oldsongB old8onllS
songB Ie Pont dAvignon was Wl the thefnHt theI
I fnHt on the 1 Hflt 8t and when she told how howone howonr
one danced on that fuinoiis bridge Bhe Bhearose RIItI
I arose picked up her skirts and capered caperedabout capereclahout
about with gay > ty abandon eap ftp ftpHying trln R RI RflYill
Hying and stout nnldw finph dis diApla
nxnn AND souTArn souTArnIt B UT = I
It is only in Fiance > Iunce that thatelderly lcspcllIlle lcspcllIlleelderly
elderly women ran give thernBelvcB up I Ito Ito
to the joy of a May morning in such rash fnshion I IIon
ion without selfconsciousness And with without wit h hopt
I IAfter
out drawing a rrowd rrowdAfter
After Le Pont dAvignon came Ie IeBOH IeHon
Hon Roi Dagobert Dag > b rt which if not soiictivi soiictiviwis so II Jti VI VIwas
was also an unqualified succeed 8I1cce8f1chiffly 8I1cce8f1chifflyOR chit ly lyan I
an we remember because the small hoy hoywus hoywUIIenchantr1
wus wUIIenchantr1 enchanted by the idea < that the good goodKing ood oodKillp
King had a habit of putting hi hiiJ troimorH troimorHon
on hind Bido before and nd never knew the thedifference theI
I difference unions his saintly Prime Minis Ministor liIlIRtor
tor explained to him that he was unron unronv unconVfmtionally
v ntionally troimered The nurse had hadto h81to
to sing inlt that one verse over and over overt
I > < t lo Roi DaKoljcrl DaKoljcrlJill
Jill A mix rnl a culo ii ii ill I f f11 < ri 1 < t tsho
1 sho Hang Hlln with gunld pu > l tmlthe small man manloaning manJpaning
loaning against he fit tnefn never failed failedto
to Bhout Mhoulfor for glee Ie and clap lilw hlndsl hands handsNo
No o of course all this has hR nothing to todo t tdo
l do with a farhion page but it explains
why vhenpvpr one faction clironicler clironiclermeets chroniclorm
meets m 11I a L union 1 lady > < ly or a flVnli and blood bloodwoman bloodwoman
woman in IJ i moycii uo Clock she find findnlionelf findhtrlelf
lionelf Hiniliug IlIlilili > and bpteen her and andthe indthe
the Hue HII do la 1ait Iai creation nt ri a vision visionof ision isioni
i of if a 1 btone bench in a snnnv garden and anda
a fil fa I good nitijixni natlJljlJOllifi tionni who ho sinKs and
11 1 thin lilllo blut hll k eyed boy bo who laughs laughsnnd 1lllghsand
and ol elIIP ps his hi hnnds hnndsBut hllllllnllt
But If the rood Kmj Dagnlwrt wa wahardly wahJTclly
hardly nuthority on correct dre elrell n in IIIH
IllUh IJU HKIOK HKIOKd 8 no 1 1Ilay >
d Ilay iy he IntH hn > had a share in importing Homo Homoamamg HllIlamll7ing
amamg modes upon women in this JPIII JPIIIof 1111 1111nf
of grace graclIl1d and the rnovcri njc I EnH nun cn to tobe toI
be I reckoned reck oiled with in everything from mull mulllo
lo satin satinloken IIIllinTaken
Taken broadly roa ly tho tb mime merely fm fmplica 1mplinl
plica n htraightnoH3 of Mlhouetto without withoutdefined withouttIfllIl I
defined < J waist wa it line but the moro radical radicalmodel i ilI1del
model IIBWO lfr W havo Indicated drop the thetnat thEwl i
wl tnat > 1 Imp far blow the natural lino or orprnclU orracllelIly I
prnclU racllelIly illv olihlernto ol > Jilernto it fitting tHnll llipMniiKht llipMniiKhtprince Iheltrnl ht htprillc I
prince lobo or I tunic onlv out mound the thehlpH thehlllIl1d
hlpH hlllIl1d nnd of course ovoi thouldcrn and andbust audbllel
bust Slomlnr HII IIIIr miprl npfH will m 11I1110 iko even eventhe evenI
the I extieino hPllle inotlrls of o thi l > < po elTeo elTeotlvely WectinI
tlvely tinI picturesque pi urfsqlw 1 but nl tho nvorage nvoragewniniin nv rale ralewoinllll
wniniin it Hhegoe he got m fortnoyonngeelTeots fortnoyonngeelTeotsat flor lJIoyonllle effect8 effect8at
at all hould content hciself with much muchmodified muchmodifld
modified vorsioni vorsioniTherp nriouOiTherp
Therp nr < > innunipnililrf nJrl ernions > liOnR of ofthe orIhe
the kind Ono may have medlasvolism medlasvolismdiluted
diluted to almost nny dcgreo nd Home Homeof Horneor I
of the most attractive lIttra < tiVIJ modeln built up upalong upalonl
along tlieao lino > t Ire re really delightful dfJlIghtfulMme I IMme I I
Mme Piqmii In perhaps pl rhllpH chief sponsor ponsorfor I Ifor
for tho moy i iigc and though some of1 of1her or orher 1
her models iiro Ireakmh without being beingbeautiful Jeinpheautirul
beautiful others aro distinclly uucoousful uucoousfulHtnught IiUCOO88rulfltralpht
Htnught yet clinging tunics of nupplo nupplostuff IupploIuft
stuff Iuft over fulf for > ioft skirts of shoor ma material malerlal ¬
terial the pamo ainu shcor material rising risingabove rl8inpIIbove
above thn ttpt bil > and ntyathipg the Hhoul Hhoulders ahouldcr
ders there you yo J have a rough outline outlineof i
of tho theme up upon wJch delectable varla varlaWJcc >
WJcc i =
I lions are rung run through daring originality originalityI
I of trimming color md other > I d fIruilt fIruiltTho > Uiin UiinTho
Tho prmcesse model is perhaps > the thereigning thernignlng
reigning one thin 6e Keason son if any out idea ideacan
can 1 1I be said to reign but that word prm prmctsso prillttBRU
ctsso iiituiiH many things thingsFirst thingflFITt
First it in mll8t net not be e understood to moan moanthe II IIthe
the tight fitting one piece frock which whichonce whichonOt
once bore the name The prinreuse fiook fiooktodav frookt4NlilY
todav if not exaggeratedly moypii eg egI
I m UK HtraightnoflH of line is at least only onlvecmilltted only8tlIIifltted
ecmilltted and while it may siiggetit siiggetitwaist slIgpetltw
waist w ist curves does not define them themMany themMany
Many models have girdle or belt effects effectsat
at the th sidfH with wit h straight front and buck tuickand buckI
and I lid them are others in which only the thefront thefrollt
front panel carries out the long Inif Inifpr limPIjIlCS
pr PIjIlCS imjfsno idea wlulu a waistband of Home Homesuit Momttlolt
suit appears m sld JdO and buclt This Thisidea Ihi Ihiidea
idea has however r been he n BO much in vogue voguefor vogllfor
for povoral scasonH pal that even en an anadded
I added ntraightncHM fltr8i htnCRtl of RilhouottH t < will not notgive lIotgive
give it in air of novoltyand 1I0Yelty and the thlfuslrion thlfuslriona fashion fashionable ¬
able a hie nukois turn out their smartest smartestpiinccbst tllIla rltHt rltHtp1ine66r
piinccbst models mod lR with unbroUeii lines linesIrom linEfrom >
from bust tos 10 s irt hrm or if if1 a tunic enters entersirto el1lori
irto i to the Bcheni from frol1llJllllt bmt to tunic edge edgeLinen edgeLincn
Linen more popular than ever in ingrontly illnmtly
grontly Jiod for fo these long straight straightprlmcBfe straightprufSFf
prlmcBfe frociB and every importor is isuhowng iAtI1lIllIJrOU
uhowng nurnorous models of thin cluso clusowhilo cluswhilo
whilo tniTiufactur ra aro busy copying copyingsuch copying8uch
such models for tbe ready made ma o trade tradeUnluclr tradeUnluclr
Unluclr Ur a frock of sucb typo needs most mostmreful mostcareful
careful ndjunttnent to the individual individualtlguro individualUlIro
tlguro and Uldonl only when very well cut and andvery andvery
very cleverly iilteied will a readv made mademodel mademodel
model of tho kind achieve real siiccew siiccewMoreover 8UCceMoreover >
Moreover at its bent t it is of handsome handsomoJinen handsomelinen
linen fcoft dull heavy hr < lvy The Trench Trenchhand Irunlhand
hand woven linen of which w Wt e hav haYtJspokeu haYtJspokeuheforo a spoken spokenbefore
before in the th loveliest thiug for the pur purbut purPORf
PORf but there are other and anlluHH IOSH eipen eipenHnons expnHnenA
Hnons whiih work up very well wellthough wellthollloh
though the ordinary rhmp linens high highof
of lustro mmsv flim asHy < < mussed will not notanswer notWSWfr
answer for tho truly ohio princesse frock frockI
The I lie three linen models ekotched for forthe fortho
the central group will illustrate in a gen general ¬
eral vrav the claes of frocks under dis discussion ¬
cussion and nil thrtu of the models wt wre > ro rodistinctly
distinctly charming in line color texture textureand tlxtureand
and dea d < 1 As wo have often remarked remarkedtho
the colorings in the linens this season are areuma7ingly areama7
uma7ingly ama7 ngly varied jind lovely soft sub subdued su b bdued ¬
dued without being dull and again bright brightwithout hrlghtwithout
without being heiu vivid v ld or spectacular spectacularSoutaching Spfctacular801taching
Soutaching and other hand embroid embroidery ¬
ery are tho favored trimmings though thoughoccasionally thollghocca810nally
occasionally one finds a very chio little littlefrook littlefrook
frook which aside from guimpe and andsleeves
sleeves ban no trimming other than bias biasbands
11 bands > and buttons The long straight straightline 1
line in usually emphasised by an em
broidered front pan l of some oollto sort but I
tho embroidery may run dowli the Hides HldtSrather
rather than the front frontA
I Iin
A clever arrangement of trimming trimmingin
in the rose linen of the sketch showed showedeoutachcd
I eoutachcd bands down the sides of the thefront thefront
front panel with the material plaited over overthe OVfrthe
the edges of the bands the plaits left leftto leftI
I to fall free nnd full toward tho bottom bottomWhere
Where there is n wide embroidered fronf fronfoiuiel rronVDIUlel
oiuiel tho loose 100 fitting eidan may bo plaiii
> >
I or sl ipod p > d slightly with small plaits plaitsCiuimpe pIa it itGuilJlpe
Ciuimpe and nlwves in the smartest smartestimpoited smart st stimpOltttI
impoited model aro of net matching matchingi
th > linen in color but there is I thin season seasonH
H decided fancy for tiimming tl colored coloredlinen
I linen with soutache embioidery of white whiterather whittI
rather than s lfcolor and in such a case casea
a little of the t he lino white braiding may mayHnish mayI
I Hnish tln > h the top of the colored net collar collarand collarand
and I lie cuffs even ti touch ol white next nextthe nextthe
the face being l > tin more booonurig than thancolor t a acolor
color Silfcolottd brudnii is I > still nse nseon
on iiiiny lIIall of the linen modols but there therem
m Momething very vr cool and summery In Inthe Inthe
the effect of the white upon tho light Ii ht
01 medium light nhndes > of roe yellow yellowgreen yellowgrpell
green blue and gray grayTliero Itra ItraIhert
Tliero wore never before vellow liiieim liiieimso
so lovolv as thoso I hrs offor otfe > rtI d now ilOW nnd wit withave wuhave
have se soon n uiiv ILfI number of haiidsiuut JII1I11 SIIIII linen linenfroukriirith lillenfrock
froukriirith frock in thce tidiill beautiful > yellow tonos tonosoften tonosof
often of tell with the > white embioidcrv elll li ry already alreadymentioned alreadynwntil
mentioned nwntil > Mnen coati aio furnnhed furnnhedwith furnl > 1hetl 1hetlwith
with Boino of tlio printt prinet8 sse tJ models and BIII the theone theone
one pieco models who bodice and allllllldrt allllllldrtare skirt skirtare
are cut separately and then t jom d dIhe 1 1The
The e latter mod nwtlul l > 1110 wlmpler 111I1111 of ofachievomeiit orachlevermmt
achievomeiit than thu il true prmcessa prmcessaand princtsileand
and a mfer venture for the average dress dressmaker reM reMmakoT ¬
maker In linen aud indeed in all the thereasons theI
reasons I < material one finds > this tll s vorBioii vorBioiiof vlolIof
of the one piece frock with or without withoutan
an accompanying coat coatSome coutSOlJle
Some adorable little morning frockti frocktiof
of foulard are are made up on thexe lines lineswith
with the merest touches of plain color colorfor colorfor I
for trimming and often with delightful delightfullittle
little collars of flue lingerie or lace turn turning turnIng ¬
ing away awa from the tlircut which they theyleave
leave freu In and numbing the Bleoves Bleoveswhich letJveswhich
which may be of thiooquarter length lengthdespite hugthdespite
despite the th greater rlater popularity > of the thelong IhoIUllg
long sleeve Much It trotting t fnxk or ormorning ormornill
morning mornill frock of avowed but dainty daintysimplicity dllintyslmplility
simplicity is a most mo borvicoible 5rvipel le poKxex poKxexftion POIIOliOll
ftion liOll Hailing > and an frlllhill < rimlnng IPBH h H readily readilyeven rfudllvwell
even than the pomjetM Jlon e needing twdin almost almostno
no trimming because of its color and anddesign anddelilign
design and oHering nonu of the cleaiumi cleaiumiand
and laundering problems > which beset besettho bORetIlw
tho wearer of linen and tub materials materialsdoing materiulsOolnR
doing back to the subject of the summerprmceaio summer UVlmerprlncetlRo
prmceaio frock one on must note tho th fact factthat factthat
that exquisite model m ill limy batiste batistelinon hati8telinon
linon Sec are being made up oirthe same samegeneral llamegeneral
general linen as thooe which we have havedescribed IIwerIetlcrihl
described d in connection with the linens linensThat linenThat
That is the moyon age or semifitted prin princesHO prlnceHlie
cesHO is achieved without break lit the thewaist thewaist
waist line and tho trimming runs in long
lines from bust to hem Elaborate work workis
is put into Home of the simple looking lookingsheer lookingshe
sheer she r frocks long linos of inset lace being beingseparated boinltseparated
separated by pin tucked pmielsind panth and intri intricate inlTicate ¬
cate trimming of linking and laco orna ornamenting orlllrnmtinp ¬
menting Ihu bottom the yoke 4o 4oA tioA
A largo number r of thoso frocks as of ofall ofull
all the summer frocks II aro made with withDutch withDutob
Dutch neck or low collarn Wo shall shallsee IIha1ee
see ee more of thin comfortable nook ar arrangement arrangement ¬
rangement this summer than we have in inmany inmany
many years but the high collar will still stillbo 8tll1be
bo retained by sonaiblo lIonsiblowomen women who realize realizethat realizethat
that while tho th low neck ncckflnlsh finish is n summer summercomfort Bummerloomion
loomion comfort it is by no moans generally be boj ¬
coming and lends itself It eU more readily to toyouth toyouth
youth than to the age at which whiohtbroat whiohtbroatIIne8 throat throatlines
lines begin to lose their charm Already Alreadythe
the low collars worn by some women womenwith womenwith
with more enthusiasm than discretion discretionare
are making distressing revelations 8 of ofdiscoloration ofdiscoloration
discoloration and ugly lines often due dueto dueto
to long Ion I wearing of high collars collarsUnllned collarsUnllned
Unllned ono piece frocks of fine cotton cottonnet oottQanet
net or cotton marquisette exquisitely exquisitelyand
and elaborately e1abornt ly adorned by soutaohd soutaohdbraiding BOutacbdbraiding
braiding but made on the simplest lines lineswith lineswith
with long or short sleeves and Dutch Dutchneck Dutchneck
neck are among the daintiest and pret prettiest prettiest ¬
tiest things offered in the province of oflingerie orlingerie
lingerie frocks and some dressmakers dressmakersinaiat
Insist that these frocks may really reallybe reallybetubbed be betubbed
tubbed though the thought of it opens openspossibilities openspossibilities
possibilities of braiding shrinking un unevenly unevenly ¬
evenly and it might be safer to send sendsuch Sendsuch
such a frock to the cleanser unless ones oneslaundress oneslaundress
laundress is a genius geniusPongee geniusPongee
Pongee frocks and frock and coat COil costumes COiltumes ¬
tumes multiply and will undoubtedly undoubtedlymeet
meet a want a httlo later for wool tailored tailoredsuits i1ored i1oredsuits
suits are too warm for hot days and linen linentailored linentailored
tailored suits lose their freshness readily readilywhilo readilywhile
while the silk trotting frock with coat coathas coathas
has the appropriate tailored air and yet yetis
is comfortably cool The natural toned tonedand tonedand
and khaki pongees are in high favor and andby andby
by the way khaki this year means a awholo awholo
wholo gamut of lovely tones ranging rangingfrom rangingfrom
from light to dark darkSelftoned darkSelf
Selftoned Self toned braiding or embroidery are aretha arethe
the usual trimmings trimminWifor for the tailored tailoredfrock tailoredfr
frock fr ck of pongee and some good looking lookingmodels lookingmodels
models have no trimmings at all de deI j jI
I pending entirely upon color quality qualityI
1 and cut for their cachet t The diagonal diagonaland
1 and tolelf < weaves of pongee have excel excellent exoelI ¬
lent possibilities in connection with the thetailored thetIlilored
I tailored costume and all fine corded cordedstuffs cordedstllftll
stuffs continue their vogue vogueSilk
Silk and wool bengaline of very light lightand lightand
I and supple quality is being used in great greatquantities greatquantitieos
quantities for dressy frocks Bedford Bedfordcord I II
I cord effects in light weight wool are popu popular popuIu ¬
lar with the tailors and all ll kinds of corded cordedsilk cordedsilk
silk havo their uses Certain semitrans semitransparent semitransparent ¬
parent woollens or silk and wool mix mixtures mlxtures ¬
tures In which whlohfine fine cords are set closely closelytogether cl08elytogether
together on a very sheer foundation foundationfigure foundationfigure
figure in the Parisian calculations calculationsLaces caloulationsLaces
Laces are coming into their own again againbut againbut
but the finer vaneties v such suchJI as Chantilly I Iand II
and Alen < on play playa a more important role r le I Iat I
I at the moment than the long Ion favored favoredi favoredIrish
i Irish laces and when heavy effects are j jwanted iwanted
wanted handsome invitations of Venetian Venetianj Venetianji j I
i Point or Russian laces with heavy em embroideries 1 1broirleriOH
broideries on coarse net seem to appeal i ito
to the Parisian designers more than thanIrish thanI
Irish I lace laceHKltS lacei
i HKltS HKltSI I li i ltIl ltIlI 1
I I Takm From rolll Church and lull MrtHl of I Ii II
i ountrrrrltern ountrrrrlternYim
I Yim 011 Vaiaoua CIIItOI WnAy WnAyI
I I Im nlianiu Iliofl of n i liun h IK11 Horn Horntho fro III I ilhOi
tho < liuptur lionso of SonthuiiiK Cathedral Cathedraltlio
tlio otlior dav da was as purnlleletl some fen fenvoirn
i Irnlr
voirn ano b tli II imslorious di dlsllipearlllll t > ienrnm ienrnmi
i of III hit bell of a famous 1 Eu iKllsh lIh jnll jnllIt
I It was in its It > plaie 1lII omi inenlni elllll and Hie Hienext I he heXI
next XI niormiiK it liud vanlsliml Th 1 he ulluir ulluiruas i iwu
uas wu > keiil a HOII I tinin tlio ho in s m 110 110loriljfiiii IICurdan
loriljfiiii urdan wllh llli tint h It nlilional polit liui liuiti PiliIHd
ti IHd ml by b our prvou anthoritlu 11111 hnrltlo and fur a aion I
ion w willi Inlo noboijy lIolJoI Incv iliit liuil boiono boionoof IIIIIu i ior
of the III missing niliclo nilicloimitnulh 1I1licloll1ullr
imitnulh ll1ullr hovoer it taiUoJ out I lilt liltit i
it tiuil been Hlolnn In on OUtI ol ihx Ih < OIIIIM OIIIIMnull OIlI lt ltwilli
null llio < omiiuim o of it umlii I a Id I Tho Thot I ho hollnof
hit t wnsn WII n profession prOfl Hloll I tomer whn IIOM IHVKX
01 of dntention HH 11011 on the III point nf OMHIIIIK OMHIIIIKind IIi 11 1111 1111I
ind I hia hi rxiHon for d lii > linir ilit I > ui alIIIliiliuu alIIIliiliuuf iiir > Hion Hionofho
ofho f HI mm nilitll h Kooil 6lIodlntII inetiil IH wullh II rtIj imiiU 11 I I oli oblulI loiii loiiilo
lo Tired d no explanation explanationIn xplalllioll11I1t1l11lIIIIlIblllly
In 11I1t1l11lIIIIlIblllly nil inolmbllif ihe III miKini lIIi II1 iolllhwark onilin ilk ilkI
I hl uas WU nnnov 111111nd Ml for u Hitnilar i uroae IHlrlQoIIhOlIlh > uroaerttthoiiiIi
rttthoiiiIi other etxlx > have lit1 l > enn Oil liud in nun nuntin flo floj
tin j ill lie 1 past b toiloiH of xm Ii nrlidiM nrlidiMflheiti 111111f
flheiti 11110 WHS for instani ti Ihe III i ano of the theinli Ihewho
f inli < iur who slolii 01 Die II famous SI Klllin Klllinbell
bell fioni 0111 its place Ilha In llio II toner of Killin iIIln iIIlnChurh I IIlmrrli 1
Ilmrrli in Perihshiin Perihshiini Prl hhir hhirI
i rhu Milvai btihned tlmt the lioll If I nr nrrniitilioiisU
rniitilioiisU tarried antn aWtt nonld 011101 oxlrnt lritiite lritiiteI 1
I Itwelf from the lmml < of the Ih thief of UK UKo II IIOWII
o OWII n nixord and un letnrn homo IIIIKIIIK all i ithe i iIh
the Ih lay and thn aniluunrv when tilled 1111 < 1 1to
I to aroount 011111 pl pleadod Jdnil Hint lio h tools the Ih hell hellin h11In
in order to prove I ho fnlsity of this pnri pnritirulur
tirulur t < lIlur pooiilnr snuerstilion hen 1 there1 bAr bArWIIA I
1 was that I Halnli the Hover of o Sowings Sowingsnell mlllllr
nell II known ballad nho stole tho lneli InclHuPtJ < ape
bell In order that peaiefnl nieichnntnien i iUKht I
f > UKht b bA wrAck recke < l upon llo I hI dreaded reef reefi
i i He perished < 1 himself with all his orow w lio lioI
I onnse rllll of tho obsnnie of ifs It nariiinv note notea
a fact fit known to n ever tohoolbov I
Mrs Elizabeth F Noble of Mansfield MansfieldMass Ma118fleldMass
Mass whose will has just been roads roadspublic rna rnapublic
public left 10000 to the Midnight Mia MiaBion M1slon
Bion of New York and the same amount amountto
to build drinking founts for horseu hora and
dogs in the streets of New ew York YorkMrs YonMrs
Mrs Lucy K Peabody Peabod < of Denver hai haijust haIJURt
just received her appointment as deputy deputyregistrar deputyregistrar
registrar of the Colorado State Board Boardof
of Land Commissioners Mrs Peabody Peabodyis
is widely known through her efforts to tohave tithave
have the cliff dwellings in southwestern southwesternColorado ROlltbweslerllColorado
Colorado preserved by including then thenin therIn
in Mesa Verde National Park Before Beforeher Heroher
her marriage she held a Government Governmentoffice
office in Washington WashingtonMrs
Mrs Bnnton Coxe was elected limi limitary fCfItary ¬
tary of the antisuffrage society form rormed rormedthe d dthe
the other day in Philadelphia In speak speaking fWlIkingof
ing ingof of the object of tho new society Mrs MrsCore III IIICoxedeoJared
Core CoxedeoJared declared that thatthey they were not opposed opposedto
to woman suffrage aa it now existed in inthis Inthl <
this country but they intended to fight fightearnestly fllthteameRtly
earnestly against agolIUltanY any further extension extensionof
of the franchise to towomen women They b bhevo be belieovo
hevo that the time has coma when noth nothing nothIng ¬
ing further in the way of duties and andburdens andburdens
burdens should be laid on women womenMrs w men menMrs
Mrs William O Choate was reelcctd reelcctdpresident reelecl reeleclpresident
president at the recen annual meeting meetingof
of the board of managers manag rs of the Woman WomansExchange WomanExchange
Exchange which has haslt it room at ail SUMadl SUMadlAon Aladi Aladison
son avenue New York The etcfcanga etcfcangawas eXchan eXchanWM
was organied orl anized thirtyone years ago and andsince andAince
since then has paid more than 1500000 1500000tofconsignors 1500000toconslgnolll
tofconsignors Many of these thcoD8i consignors consignorshave oll ollhllvebeen
have hllvebeen been mother struggling to support supportand supportI
and educate their children childrenMiss chlldrenMi88
I t
Miss Martha E Johnson has just bwn bwnreelected he4nreeleoted
reelected tax collector of Laconia N H HThis HThis
This is her fourth term She U i said to he hethe bethe
the only woman tax collector colle < < tor in New NewEngland Newngland
England > She is a graduato of the La Laconia Laconla ¬
conia high highschool school and an active member memberof
of the Laconia Womans Club ClubMiss Clubfi8S
Miss Mary Shaw w in a lecture recently recentlydelivered recet ily ilydelivered
delivered before the William Lloyd Gam Gamson Garrison
son Equal Rights Association declared declaredthat dec decthat
that the American women were responsible responsiblefor
for the conditions on the American stage stageShe sta e eShe
She said that it was not actresses and andactors andacton
actors of great genius who made money moneyand mollfOyand
and were acceptable to the American Americantheatregoers Americanthea
theatregoers thea tregoers The 1 he successful actress in inAmerica inI
I America was the kind of woman of whom whomother wbomother
other women said < Isnt she he sweet The
I successful actor was the man who they
thought could make love gracefully gracefullyMrs
Mrs Julian Heath presided at the meet meetIng
ing which was held the other day in New NewYork NewYork
York for the purpose of urging the crea creation creation
tion of n Federal bureau to instruct moth mothere mothers
ere in the care of their homes and familiet familietA
A committee was appointed to make fur furtb rurthr
tb thr < r investigations and invitations were werelIent
sent to men and women thought to be beinterfAted
interested in the subject to attend a con conference conrrence ¬
ference to be bold Liter in the month monthMISA monthIiSR
MISA Claudia McKenzie won the first flC1tprize
prize and Mrs Bradley Jones the Ihesecoed Ihesecoedin second
in the recent rf > cent hat trimming contest held h4idhy
by a club of women in New YorkTbI YorkTbIfirst York The Thefirst
first prize is to be the portrait of th thw thwinner
w inner painted I > ainted by Ben All Haggm lIag in the thesecond thllroml
second roml a immature of Mrs Irs Bradley BradleyJoneR BradleyJoneRpaintPd Jones Jonespainted
painted by Martha WhwMer Baxter Thn TblhRtf
hats < trimmed by the club were given as asFaster a aEasIer
Faster preents pre < entl to a class > of little girls girlsin girlin
in an Fust Hide Sunday Sunda Hchool HchoolIda 8choolIlia
Ida ralbeHan en General Supervisor Supervisorof
of Public Pll lie Schools of Denmark celebrated celebratedlei
lei 1 < sixtieth birthday the other day cla She Sheis
is Ii < hiid Ha < 1 to be the best beloved 13 well ai aiono n none
ono of the most brilliant of the th women womenof womenof
of her h r country She was the pioneer in inthe inthe
the work for the higher education of ofvomen orIIIum
vomen IIIum of Denmaik and after over overcoming ovromltll ¬
coming numerous obstacles gamed ad admission adlIIiA ¬
mission lIIiA < ion to the university where in due duetune duetime
tune bh ° > was WI > graduated Fora For a number numberof
of years yeaT she IIU was a teacher in the Normal ormal l lol1fge
College of Copenhagen CO > Nlhaln giving up th that thatplaceo t tplace
place in in 1903 to become fieneral Super Supervisor Supervitlor
visor of Public Schooln > tihe he is ifl the ilrat fll1twoman
woman m Denmark to hold tho office officeA officeproject
A project is it < on foot to found a social socialclubhouse socialclubhoufle
clubhouse for the girl irl student of Boston BostonDuring
During the hiht school term there wer wersaid werlaid
said to have been twenty thousand girls girlsand glrlami
and women studying in that city Thi Thlpenonll
penons at the head of the present move movement movfment ¬
ment believe h lieve it would be a great safe safeguard Barguard ¬
guard if a clubhouse on the lines pro
posed 1 > 0tir > d could be established esta lished
Z u utmllllllllllllullllllllllllllllilin
tmllllllllllllullllllllllllllllilin 111111111111111111111111111I111111I11111111111111111111111
firoUeli mnfti fIn ami fcmfj of ofI
I lilt IIn < < not in ine lIntS of oflrlli11 ir fl art arttug 111 111rorstl < <
tug < < corset requlrfmtntt tlriiiuiulrtl tlriiiuiulrtlby
by the wodfrn fintitonnlAr ISMon j n oniiiu uf ufrn
rn Iork or as at Iarti IartiLA 1 1LA
attain for the wearer the great greatest ¬
est degree of slenderness and andthe
i the largest measure of comfort comfortThe comfortThe
The supremely clever French Frenchmodeling Frenchmodeling
modeling gives this beauty of ofline ofline
line and the Spirabone Spiraboneboning Spiraboneboning
boning accounts for f r the de delightful delightfulease ¬
lightful lightfulease ease and freedom freedomwhich freedomwhich
which LA RESIST A wearers enjoy enjoySpirabone enjoySpirabone
Spirabone is an improvement on whalebone it is of won wonderful wo woderful ¬
derful flexibility lightness and strength To be had in inLA 10LA
5 8 12 the pair and upwards upwardsAn
An fip upert rt ror ronellr tlfrr always In it itleadonre 1 Downer lown r Haues Haw Co Inc Inrttudanr
leadonre to oner Ihe lirneni of l ex exI 2123 Wet 34th Street StreetYork Str d
I Ierlnand erlf nre and adtcr
ParfllNeD York YorkBranch YorkBranch
Branch Offices OfficesDaily lI AD1ERrlsEM and N1S
subscriptions subscriptionsmay
may be left at thfse offices officeswhere
Ufbe 1Ut where tbe rates are the thesame I r rsame
same as those charged at atmain
Daily Sunday Evening main office officeXKW I
r rNEW
NEW YORK CrrWall Street Men may leave mitworiptioM
and advertisements at tho Wall Street office 25 Broad Street
telephone 2200 Iteelcman 1393 Broadway near 38th Street
LCT West 12ith 12 th Strict
MacQlloidAlcorn Special AKency404 Tribune Building
RROOKIlNlo Livingston Street near Court Street
BOSTON M ASJRoom 26 Glob Bldg Washington Washln ton Street
I fl Harrison HarrisonNEWARK
NEWARK N J7D4 1784 Broad s StreetF < tF N Sommer
an IOAGO lLTIl0021004 Tribune BldgGuy Sommer9bora S 9bora ° 9boraLONDON
LONDON ENQLANDDorltmd ENGLAN Dorland Special Agency 3 Regent Si

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