Newspaper Page Text
THE SUN, SUNDAY, MARCH 24, 1912.
' : III SPRING FROCKS
.makers nro exceedingly wearable frocks
lovely without,, being sensational,
' It H among the ovonlng.frocks and the
dressy afternoon frocks that ono Muds the
inivft dnrjng experimenting with now
Ideas- with now ideas that were, old many
years A Kb!' for 'tho designers, have gout)
for tlit'lr1 Inspiration to tlin court of l,otil
XV. and I.ouls XVI. nnd fo tho Colonial
and Victorian, day.
It it among' frock's or this type too that
one Hud the most wonderful of tlio new
tnutcrinls, Mintcrhls ho exquisite in many
instances that it seems hopeless to at
tempt description of them. Tho handliriK
of skirt, drapery is the featuro of these
models that inures the first and BtroiiKest
Impression upon any understanding per
son who studies them tho featuro in
which thojdressmakersAho flocked to tho
opening wero most interested.
Many of tlio drosstnfikors frankly
groaned over tho revelations nnd ud
lnittedlhat' sucli handling of textures was
beyond their skill, but the gleaming eyes
of others proclaimed not only apprecia
tion but self-confidence. Doubtless tho
Belf-eonfldcnce was often without Justifi
cation, but ns a matter of fact, while
there are few really original and inspired
designers in this country there U a host
of extraordinarily skilful workfolk who,
given a model, can copy it admirably
oven though it bo u difficult task.
It is to be hoped that only theso gifted
souls will attempt to wrestle with the more
Intricate of the drafted skirts. It would
Ito a shame to travesty the things that the
French designers have done with draperies
and there are plenty of simpler skirt
arrangements easily reproduced.
All tho skirts have addad fulness, but
there are varying grados In this fulness
nnd fulness docs not by any means neces
sarily Imply drapory.
Tailored skirts are with very few ox
ocpttobs almost ns straight of line ns they
wore last season, though they arc not so
left front and In the back and was trimmed
round the bottom by Httlo flat boulllonnes
put on in two Intersecting lines. 'Hie
bodleo had a collar of whlto chiffon with
and forming the upper part of the sleeve
whose lower three-quarters was a slightly
flaring plain cuff of tho satin with little
satin buttons up the outside. The glrdlo
dull blue hem and n narrower collar of
was of tho satin and tho only striKlng
color noto wns In a turndown collar of
purple silk under which was knotted an
.odd little cravut of purple and cerise.
Both of those models were excellent
In a simple way and either might readily
be copied In less costly materials. The
i the bluo chiffon turning over this first
I A little fiat bow made from n nnrrow
j bund of corded puffing such ns trimmed
, the skirt held this collar In front and a
( similar bow held tlie slight drapery of
, the quaint flaring sleeve whoso frills
matched the collar. This collar, by tho
way, passing over tho shoulders descended
i in a point in the back, practically cover
ing tho entire back of tho bodice, thrt
' point falling below tho very slightly
I raised waiBt lino and held by n narrow
I patent leather belt.
Tho other little frock was built up of
DrcsS .Modela.Froni Paris Cltnrni
ly Tlit'lr Lines and t 1
FEATURES OF NEW MODES
light tan one, for example, would be a
good model for cotton crepe or vollo and
heavy lace and tho taffeta one would
Daring Experiments With Iinlveil 'Ideas',
Panniers Hnck ,
The openings nt which t'i' wholesale
Importers show to their pai rpns umpng
t.to dnenakers their now modoM, im-
soft e.itln crepe In a tono between sand
and pain brule, nnd trimmed with heavy
lace exactly matching It In tone. A wide
band of tho lace trimmed tho softly fulled
L '' 1 ' .' . 1,1
AN TZV Eft Vtf uj
' ' t ' i
ported, and dqmertlo, and, their new ma-(
terials-are past npd .fpme of 'tlie shops
have-haH'thelr'openings for the benefit'
of trfe 'general publlo. ' '
I laving ffane the rounds.one Is in v peak"
tion'to spaali "authoritatively' pf the seay
Bons"' trio(Wn, as American women jflll'
contn .them. TheParlsJnn ,wljl hare!
nothing v5;do wjth-tho models.'ehowrtotoj
tin trade: by.:tlio 'famous (Paris houses.
Later she will 'de'iViand ParlBfan'. modes'
and' 'get them ' tVhat she accepts and,
wears may not have much In common with
tho 'early models bought frfr the Ameri
can market; yet after all the difference Is
not so great us some writers on the mib-t
Ject would have peoplo believe. The well
dressed Parisian would not dream of.
ordering a frock popled from a model
sold hero, thero and everywhere and
copied tnnumerablo times, There she
shuws her good Judgment,
Moreover many spectaoular Idea .em
bodied in thn .models for general sale
would never appeal to the Parisian
mnudalne, though some American women
accept them because they' have' the Pari
sian hallmark, but from the more con
servative and artistically beautiful of tho
models Bhnwn. here the intelligent student
of the modes,' caa make a very fair guess
as to what that Parisian jwIII wear,,.or at
wasi as 10 me general character whloh .
that capricious and exacting' critic.; "
oostumes are likely to assume,
Everything promises a season of charm-1 '
Ing toilets (Thn modes sliow enough
of chatiRn' to make (hem exceedingly In-'
terestlng, Itut thee changes, save in ex-
ceHional instances, are not, revolutionary,
do not tu'ii fo 1Iwrr extremes, Even'1
the moft iliftim tive innovations are morn'"
often griiiefiilly picturesque than freak
Ull, and a very decided majority of tlis "
taodela from the moat authoritative Pari
6ofyffipF ' fjfj U E 'TA fj F ETA "AT, D 'L AC E
AND ONE OF BROCADED PINK SATIN
narrow, thanks to skilfully Introduced
plaits and tunlo arrangements. ' A major
ity of t ho simpler, short one piece frocks
j)lso retain a straight and narrow skirt
outline. Tho skirt, if the material allows,
Is fulled into thn waistband but It is so
weighted and drawn down that it hangs
comparatively straight nnd oven when it
Is flounce trimmed docs not have a bouf
Two little models from authoritative
designers nro plctuied among tho small
cutn nnd lllustrato tills point. Both are
exceedingly chio, strictly of the moment
in mnterinlsnnd detail, yet neither shows a
radical change from the lines to which
people havo lieen nccustomed.
One frock U In taffeta of the newest
nnd most exclusive sort. The silk is of
tho soft, lustrous quality for which dress
makers with clientMes Justifying buoIi
plunging wore paying live and six dollars
a yard at tho wholesale importing houses.
The giouud was changeable In soft medium
deep brown and blue and bluish red, the
blue predominating, nnd ovor this surface
wero strewn at intervals big, prim, single
rose sprigs, blurred in out lino nnd shim
mering through darker nnd lighter shades
of the chameleon colors shown In the
As has lieen said before, description Is
a hoeloss task when kuch materials nre
in question, One must see tho colorings I
to appreciate thorn, and it must be ml- j
mitted moro nrtistio sense than tho
average oritio possesses Is needed for full I
appreciation of some of tho wonderful 1
stuffs when M-en, Many of the color'
schemes into which Hie uianufacluiers
havo put their finest art feeling this year,
will be caviar In the multitude,
Hut to return to the flowered I a ft eta
frock. Its skirt, lulled at the waist, had
aNfull length group of flat plaita at lbs
skirt and dragged it down In straight
lines nnd tho lace was cleverly set Into tho
bodice sides, extending over the shouldor
be delectable In any of the quaint Jouy
silks or even in plain taffeta.
Oversklrts, polonaises, panniers, nit are
here, and where they are successfully
manipulated they are undeniably charm
ing. Some of the extremo models have
ovcrskirts frankly draped up all around
OVar & full but BtTat&ht IlUip '1U. Ofteu
the effect is that of a very long skirt
caught up so that the upper part falls in
a deep soft puff over the lower part a
puff which. If the material, aa Is often
the case, happens to be taffeta, billows
out a little, giving a new line to the
silhouette, though the skirt bottom does
More often, however, the front of the
skirt Is plainly clinging or scantly flounces,
and the drapery takes the form of soft
panniers drawn back into a straight
full back or a back cleverly draped over
a square or pointed train.
Ono of the loveliest evening frock
models shown at any of the openings
was that of whose back a sketch is given
here. The backs o,f tho new frocks are '
ko fascinating that only by pictures of I
both front and back can ono convey any t
idea of tho model; but In this case the'
front was comparatively simple, with
petticoat and bodice drapery of fine
The material was an exquisite satin in
alternate three inch stripes of rose petal
pink and white, hut so delicate was tho
pink and so high the lustre of the Bilk
that only in certain lights could one see
the stripe design plainly. A wide white
satin glrdlo finished with a full width
flat, pump bow on the left side was an
original note, but the novelty ot the
model centred in the back drapery of
the skirt, which was very full und daringly
though softly bouffant nt hulf length,,
fulling more clinglngly lielow.
Interesting but less of n departure in
outline was thn othor frock of the central
group on this age. Here the material
was ono of the chuugeablo taffetas in ex
qulsito quality, a mingling of light toned
greens and blues with a mere dash of
yellow gloaming through It, This silk
formed n nort of coat or bolero and skirt
drapery, the drapery sloping away in
long flat pannier lines from n skirt of
tulle flounced in fine Inco nnd knotting
low upon the train, A shoulder and
sleeve drapery was of the lace and through I
It lltllo l.nu,. -,f l,ll, .. . i
IV nitwn,.. mix" ,.. i.i ifivn vuiri nov
upon the short sleeve of not, I
In the sime collection with this wns I
another plnturoatuo frock whoso skirt 1
was of clinging law, whlln over this in
the back fell n train of flowered taffeta
set into the walstb.md vory full beneath
a vry deep girdle of the taffeta, fulling
J,ln full folda about to knee depth and ther
The Figure Superb !
THE BON TON i the "corset de luxe"
of the world for the well groomed
woman the recognized standard of corset
The prettiest woman lacks charm unless
she has the wit to be well groomed that
is, neatly, becomingly dressed and above
all, trim of figure, 4
emphasize a naturally good form and create
attractive curves where none existed. A
superb figure is within every woman's
power if she will but wear the " BON TON.",
Scores of the most exquisite and fashion
able new designs now on display at all the
better stores. Consult your corsetiere
All Leading Dealers, $3 to $25
ROYALWORCESTER CORSET CO., WORCESTER, MASS.
Our Bcutifal New Catalofve Free te Aiy KUttu .
turned under and tucked up so that there
Is the effect of a full puff, from beneath
which the train falls straight and full.
Paquln has sent over some of the most
Interesting of the coquettish skirt draper
ies, and she too has launched a number of
accordion plaited skirts In very soft silks,
falling perfectly straight and limp so that
the outline Is as narrow aa that of a plain
skirt, yet perfect freedom of movement
Is made possible. One of her tailored
models has appealed to almost all of the
Importers and is tremendously clover In
Its adaptation of drapery on the pannier
order, to a material as heavy as serge and
to tailored finish.
A very chio little cutaway coat whose
tall la slightly draped belongs with the
skirt, and though few women could
wear the model well. It bespeaks clever
ness. One importer shows this model In
a black satin frock and red cloth coat,
and though one cannot Imagine a fastidi
ous woman wearing It, it is exceedingly
Bed Is, by O way, a very Important
item among relieving colors and in bright
shades such aa geranium and cardinal
flashes in discreet touches upon even the
most conservative of frocks. With white
and with white and black combinations
It Is particularly pleasing; aid sorao
admirable results are obtained by using
sheer white lingerie material such as
cotton marquisette or voile or batiste,
embroidered in red and black in combina
tion with solid black.
For example, a good looking costume
of black chiffon taffeta has its bodice and
the top of skirt down over the hips of white
marquisette embroidered lightly in broken
vertical lines with bright rod and black.
The rest of the skirt is black taffeta and
there are touches of the silk on the'bodlce.
The coat accompanying the frock is
entirely of the black taffeta self-trimmed
and falls low enough to cover entirely
the white part of the frock.
A combination recalling this one occurs
in an especially successful three piece
model whose skirt and short cutaway
coat are of Gno dark blue serge very
plainly tailored but excellent in line, and
detail. With these Is a peplum bodice
which has a short jaunty little bolero over
a blouse of very fine white linen em
broidered in light cross stitch design with
red and green and dark blue. The short
peplum is of the blue taffeta. Views of
this model with and without the couts 1
are shown among the sketches to-day.
Poiret still insists upon the very short
waist line and scant straight skirt. His
models show his usual tasto (Or daring
and brilliant color schemes, but his models
this season as shown in the Now York
openings so far are not as admirable of
their kind as were his models last year
and, seen side by side with tho graceful
flowing draperies and beautiful colorings
of the models turned out this spring from
some of the other Paris houses, his frocks
seem more freakish and bizarre than they
did against the fashion background
of yesteryear. In certain little Jouy
models, he docs, however, achieve a de
licious quaintness.and some of his bonnet s
TUSSOR AND LACB.
To create the LATEST FASH
IONABLE FEATHER NOVEL
TIES In strictly correct xtyle from
your OLD, dilapidated Plumes and
Broken Tip requires rare scientific
skill. METHOT has this skill, and
it enables him to make transforma
tions from your OLD feathers that
seem incredible and permits you
always to keep in vogue.
The creations EQUAL HEW
and cost LESS than' HALF. The
smallest fragments can be- utilized
and made fashionable aad pretty.
Fnr.NCIt FEATHER DYER DRESSER
29 Watt 34th St, New York
Second Floor. Take Elevator.
and hats covered in Jouy cottons or silks
have the same character.
Serges, Bedford cords, whipcords and
tweeds are the material most frequently
repeated in the wool tailored models,
and the cutaway coat is first favorite,
though often the fronts slope away but
slightly. There ore plenty of coats In
which they do not slope at all, a fortunate
thing for the woman who haa failed to
suppress her hips to the proper unassertive
ness. Belted effects In coats, aa in frocks, are
extremely popular but the belt need not
go all the way around the waist and may
be looso or simply drawn, so it can be
adapted to widely different figures.
It Is undoubtedly true that in a large
majority of the best new models waist
lines are a trifle smaller as Well aa longer
and the curves of the figure are more
defined than they havo been in the past
few seasons, but, aa yet, the change is
slight. How far the movement will go
remains to be seen.
Secret of Unbreakable Glass.
From the London Chronictt.
I'nlireakable glass, for which there might
be a demand Just now, was invented ntnrlj'
2,(100 year ago. according to Petroninn snJ
Dion ("asMus, though I'liny casts artoubt on
ttie story. An artist appeared befon
Tibtriu.i w Ith a cup of glass which he da.hH
violently on the ground. It was neither
broken nor rraeked, but merelv dented,
like piece of metal. Then the man pro
duced a mallet and hammered the eup back
Into Its proiter shape.
Tiberius, however, asked whether anv
body else knew the seoret and when the
artist proudly nnwerel "No," had htm
Instantly beheaded, The Kvnperor femed
that such glass would terribly depreciate
tlio value of the precious metal,
A Hspsburg Author.
From thr London Chronicle.
Next to Carmen Sylva the must volu
minous of present day royal authors li the
Austrian heir piesumptlvr, the Archduke
eriinx Ferdinand, who made his debut In
llleratuie twenty years ago with a olunm
descrlbliifr his trip mound tlu world
I he Archduke's next work was a mono
graph on Itadetzky, which has run Into
several editions, nnd this wns followed by
two othei works on hlstoilrai subjects. He
lias also published two volumes of vetue,
Jind Is credited with the nuthorshlp nf a
number of Hrtleles In technlcul publica
tions on engineering and kindred subjects,
In which he Is keenly Inteieated.
DANGERS OF FAT
HOW FAT AFFECTS THE MAIN
Just how fat affects
and finally destroys
the brain, is not ex
actly known; how
and final collapse of
brain tissues, due to
this.cause, is of fre
Ife.lil nainc nnd
head heaviness, which are often experi
enced by fat people, may indicate that
this Regenerating process is imminent-
inc icium ni mis laity tissue to nor
mal h Tain (llhctmn-.. mit, nmhikll'
Will result if the nmnrnJurlinn nt fit
is stopped in other parts of the bod
i nuujdiius oi lai people nave depended
entirely (or reductions to normal
Tablets. WniVh nre marl nftr th virt
formula of the famous liquid Marmola
Prescription. While taking these tab
lets for the reduction of fat, no dieting
nor exercise are necessary, as a reduc
tion of io to t6 oz. a dav is accomplish
ed bv nrcventtnn a well at liminaflnn
of fa't. Marmola Prescription Tablets
ic juiii .ti an uruegists or tne warnioia
Co., i8li Farmer Bide,. Detroit, Mich.,
at the uniform price of 75c for a larpf
case. They remove the fat alrcad
formed, prevent its rcfo'rming, clear
the ,complexion and tone up the