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THE SUN, SUNDAY APRIL 14, 1912.
TUCKED UP DRAPERY MURKS NEW GOWKS The Sprinc Fashions Noturesque, Practical hut Tempt to Exaggeration. BON TON CORSETS FLOWING LINES AND CURVES Not All the New Frocks Draped -Pretty Skirt Effects-Tho Evening Gowns. The modish frock of this season may h picturesque, may he practical. may l liolli picturesque and practical. Whn one finds a model nnqtieatlnn atilr belonging to the third class one will do well to cleave to It; for tempta tion toward the overpicttiresque Mid the impractical lurks in every shop, Thfir l the weak point in the season's modes, which are. on the whole, delight ful The woman who cannot with any congruity wear a certain extreme mode seems to gravitate toward that mode. M the sparks fly upward, and them It very prolahllity that costume even more fearful and wonderful than those of yester-year will lie Been this summer; hut for the woman who known her own possibilities and limitation thia season In full of opportunities for successful dressing The picturesque of the extreme type and the picturesque of the conservative tTpe are fairly well illustrated by the two frocks sketched for the large cut. Both are charming in Volor and in ma terial. Both are strictly of the moment in line and detail, hut almost any woman to whom pink in becoming might wear the rose taffeta and only th exceptional woman could wear the green and cream. The difficulty does not lie in the color or the material but in the exaggerated quaintness of line, which means con plcitotinsA of a sort, and consequently means that the wearer should have a figure and face justifying the bid for attention nude by the frock. A picture frock on a woman who Is net In the picture is a distressing sight, and the lamentable thins about the mat ter is that a large (wrcentage. of women seem to Buffer from incorrigible astigma tism when it comes to seeing themselves as others we them. But the fact that the more extreme of this season's mods are sure to be bused doej jiot niter the fact that they rw in wieiiiarivrs more loveiy man ine extremes of fashion usually are. Of course the materials and colorings have much to Wo with this; and the exaggera tion to which the straight andj narrow silhouette had run disposes women to welcome flowing lines and moderate ourves. The soft taffetas are at their best In LINGERIE AND SATIN. thate picture frocks; for try as they will, tailor never succeed In making taffeta suits and frocks of a tailored sort alto gether graceful and satisfactory, and even the little afternoon frocks of taffeta of m simple kind are very likely to lie fussy or clumsy rather than chlo; but In flowing frocks and slightly bouffant draperies this silk is admirable. Paquin is responsible for the quaintly draped model of the picture, and the back of the frock is the interesting feature of it, though the taffeta baok drapery does extend on either side so that it it visible from the front and givea a novel line to the silhouette). This drapery is formed from two straight wide breadths doubled back upon themselves and at tached to the rounding basque tab in such a line that they flare softly yet crisply in a fashion which could not be achieved in a silk more fluent and supple than taffeta. The rose frock is, like the green one, of changeable taffeta, but the rose is merely shot with whito so that it runs through soft, luscious (.hades of its own colors. The skirt falls gracefully and simply in long full folds, a petticoat of lace showing narrowly in front. The sides of the skirt are embroidered deli oately in crystal and are held at knee height by a big soft bow of old blue Telvet, which spreads across the creamy lace of the petticoat. A similar bow is posed on the front of the bodioe, whose elote-fltting lines, long waist, tight sleeves with elbow frills and bertha of very fine lace are all, like the skirt and the color scheme, of Louis XV. genie, though in 1912 adaptation. The petticoat mid draped overskirt at train appears again and again among the morn elaborate evening gowns, particularly where taffeta is the silk used; and in one of the small pictures aitothrr frock of this class Is shown. Here the lace petticoat, shows more widely and ttie entire bodice Is of the lace, the change able taffeta being used only fr the over skirt. When one gets away from the pictur syiue evening frocks, one finds fewer extreme draperies, but all the skirts In soft materials show considerable fullness and the tucked up drapery in on form or another I being v-'v widely . idol ted. Whether j will be aocelited be either the fastidious women or the crowd A GOVN OF ROSE TAFFETA WITH remains to b se.n, but some of its ver-' sions are really delightful Scoffing critics declare that a drees of JOUY SILK. this kind looks as though an elastic had Iwen drawn tightly round the body a little above the knees and the skirt drawn up and left to fall over the elastic, after the fash inn which some women adopt in shortening a long h!irt for walking; but there's much In the way in which the skirt is tucked up, lh' lino thU ovcrfttllinj! puff follows and the general outline of the skirt. In taffetu this kind of skirt is do. cidedly bouffant in the miner section. full ond straight and limp bolow. and Is rath"r too extretux to tempt any but the radicals and the adventurous; but in the softer stuffs it is lss extreme, and when well made has cachet and charm A lovely frock of th Ha s was of very soft she r urea my liiirie mtleri'il over an under irt of I luu satin or at !eni ,with the Hkirt of 1U..' Mujn ,w the tuu.el up puff of the lingerie overskirt This p.iff fell quite limply but vry full aim iouomt a slightly slanting line , iiowiiw.ini irom irn'u m in.')U From under lh" Indie I up ed:-.,( fell a soft plai,rl frill of ;ery One , ream lac-. There ! it " V.i " i " i V ' " Minpie l ng-rie bo i,, , , lnrriw ,lWto,, fris II i-h-d the long slim transparent sleeves I , Hiodier clHIinlng model w it , ,e I,,,.U, , ,, I....I , .... . ! ( .. .. ,r - , (, ,,tl1, uuuri SMtl or tliiepl mi worli eiuhrililery floiinring villi a bttle pUm b.niste hom iiI.om. (lh d- e iiiirnidnry. I'h. bodice and j tucked up overskirt were of soft flowered 1 BLUE VELVET BOWS AND THE AND silk in Iuls XVI design of rose and blue and straw color and there was a flat fichu of the cut vrork embroidery covering al most the entire bodice above a girdle of old blue A method of skirt drapery which merely gives a little movement to the skirt line's without introducing any extreme lines or actual bouffancy consists in placing a group of tiny horizontal plaits on one side of a skirt that would otherwise hang in lightly full folds the fulness of course more pronounced in back and sides than in iront .mi esceitenv lAtmn model i illuhtrating this point is reproduced here and will show the nurmVr and length of the plaits, though on account of the . stripe in the material It Is difficult to indi- cate quite clearly all the details of a model , inn v- rry rwipin 111 mr yei very oe- . cidwllv chic. A similar group of tucks is sometimes PONGEE. usd a"nns th front Instead of on the sid; b'it In tins un th phlts are set a ! In tie higlii-r cud the fullness resulting! fiom them is wrled back In soft folds. fll)iii thin to disappn.ir under a str.ilgut back, of b,h p U,, " irZl ! crouiix attn-top and separating a little toward the bottom to give glimpse of a pnticnat In,l,-I ,lr.,....TO I. .1.. "V '' .-M"il MIIK IV is only b"iu!i.R It miiiiiiU ;v new note and so 1 it is impressive that the drapery idea Is t i thing mn-t clearly efnd in one's ! nimd. aft,r a study of the new modeU. and up eaehside of thefrout by a narrow , As h beeo said Woni. most ot th.jbd of Mlf.pumn. BACK AND FRONT OF A QUAINT FROCK OF GREEN TAFFETA. CHIFFON LACE. sKirta m sort material have considerable fullnetH, but this fullne.s is very likely loiteneici m ny some transverse tnmming or. at leat. to b" draaz-xl down into straight clinging lines Occasionally mn finds a skirt with sraooth fitting upper section and the lower part in a plti.'ed flouno walch falls pe.-fectly etMig.it and 'ft. Hiring not at all toward the bottom A Collot in 'mi s i i iiiiuT pai sfi n ra I an t i irax tnis skirt and the idea has been taken up by some designers for soft radiums, voiles, o An accordion plaifri lower skirt below a tucked up or tunic drapery. I. another plaited skirt eTect carried out in chiffon and the very supple materials, Kor the woman who considers a broken skirt line unbecoming, there are plenty of moaeis witnruil lengtli plain front panels. or mrerly full length button trimming. The full length line is more often inter rupted at the waist by a girdle or belt ; than it was a year ago, and often only the ' full skirt length has the feature, but ' even this adds height to a figure, i A very clever little model of the most ! demure simplicity comes from a famoi s house and is of black taffeta, with a nar row panel of white llnon down the full front length. The llnon has little hem stitched tucka on each side of a line of PRINTED CHIFFON. parl buttons arid Int.onholes, and th buttons are sewel on witn red. The taffeta sklit Is very slight Iv fulled ini 1 1 he walstUnd, but welghied ilovn s th.it ,t does not flan and bord"red on th boito n i Moreover it is given the horizontal nlaits Just below the hips I I hit is the skirt is cmgtit up under the uinit of puffing in a verv small rilait every two inches for n space of nbout eight or ten Inches and this gives just the faintest hint of movement in th otherwise straight skirt. There are n tucker .mrl collar and cuffs of the Hnon. I The belted blouse with straight bisiue n.m it.. .. i i though it cuts the height when in material ! contrasting with the skirt or when trimmed around the bottom by contrast ing material, and In such versions Is only for the till and slender, it is much le trying when it is continued by the line of the skirt without any iWlnlte line or band of sspiration. Somo extremely pretty models on this order nro nude like I v- BORDERED CHIFFON. thsstr ied chiffon of our sin ill sketch, and ,ow 1 ieent.ro front of Ibe s(lrt ,, sih psrtlcuUrlyrorKi!utiMorlilisni.Klf!nw.rl,ppic th.. tl,e i ,, ,', ' - ?, iseTecti.'e In ,ibiio.l imy ofl JfDie nrigin'il was in linn ,,.(f !"n' 'I'd w.itte str.pi. lin c'liffon lud a dep noruer hi piuii cense cttiiton sepirated 1 mm in - i ip- y 1, inrrnw rmwor du - eia'i. ici's i.murr wis usti iimy on llin skirt eti.1 was opened up the front to show a little of the wi.ll.i sitln underslip, The simpl.. girdled bodice showed a fc, '. ""'"""""i 01 Willi oris.. and hit itbtin csrisi h.un. nnisnmg ine sives. in.) girdl' vv.i t.f wlilio -'I i in ami tii" w.iito f..ni,d iti'in ,il the frock softened ai! tlw usl of t,K ciffcn i(ii Ua8 ,.r l ic i.n e.i.o, ,l l . T ""' lH,,,s,r sr,:,r' l,',f"r '..'i to .oft coola. """"JUtoX ZlS ti "- TTHE BON TON is the "corset de luxe' for the well groomed woman the recognized stand ard of corset perfection. The prettiest woman lacks charm un less she has the wit to be well groomed that is, neatly, becomingly dressed and above all, trim of figure. BON TON corsets emphasize a natu rally good form and create attractive curves where none existed. A superb figure is within every woman's power if ane will but wear the "BON TON." Scores of the most exquisite and fash ionable new designs now on display at all the better stores. Consult your Cor setiere today. All Leading Dealers. $3 to $25 i The striped chiffons, radiums, voiles and other sheer stuffs make up most nt tinlest of i tractlvely and a good deal Is done with TAFFETA AND LACE. nl.-illl ullL' aurl dlrin.. t.. i .. Drilll V flowered , nm- -ill-- ..... ----- -j .iu lCll theJouy m,rnuNet.o.s and c;,iff0 "'If 1411 mill infill IU1H irtTlsS bill au n. JMU n ; course must go ,0 the clJwi inL of the laundry; but that Is true of the inoie. Lt.i.r.n.. 11. .. 11 ' ' ,e ,e e tbonite liiigone models oven when uo iu is intrixiuced ution them. Illack sutin or taffeta trims M.me of the Is-st looking lingerie molel... and in -ert lace, openwork embroiderv A," ro made to how up well bv ha'n., them over a veiling of bl, ck chl T.m or black net. Then. too. black not is ",sd for inserted binds and frills unon h, hlte lingerie muterials, A good lookins frock of white 1 .. ni.t 1. j 1 . : ''oU , , r I bZTJ" , , ... 1, , . buttoning with small whit" sitin liuiw.f.a tiny w.iislcoit of the sitln witi. ih I sme points snd buttons shows nt th inn of th blouse front, und shoni.inr 1..., , ,e .irrnnge.1 to liarmonU... 'I h ttTert i exceed nir V food . Iinrl un lmi.,..i... L I .. ,h. m -iri .1 Vi7.." ; l(.ick sstln in place of the white will Verr 'hI results wu" Vh k""t- -V" -.her .imiii nun ciingiPic. anil witn b.uiie bcr.lei lriMiiiiiii.i-, is ill. i. mill, us, ,ii;hi1p Hi, trucks o: doriHit r p.,ny shrer ; iffs, s'jch nrirquUeitc. cri'pdu, ladurn,' .V ill 0&SW3Tf J ita rirTH Avg.. ' NCAN 3lt' ST.. We nro oli'i'tniK-dtt cxtpiisite arrs;' of tnie intfrprotctiotis of old CHINESE EMBROIDERIES wWrli r;prcnt nny unique Uc-ljnj m tiflll.hlnt (tilrnlsl ldrn. i all smi Imparl our r Hftitrtnifo r' TAni.ltAHi:, LAMPS. SHAPhS find U'n Inn Hurnll'irr .srnil fur tlluitrstei rl1otu ' In t'limilna I'rrlty.Sunni'r Ilrf.MloiuiltofCtl jour fcc u is I Mr ntf.l lmiorlaiii vt all iisnirn Nam t naer i.i.i snl It vlll re.terr the brttlt. rharmlnff rprc.slnn of youth. Tlshlrn Mi In t nder I his Mmtf and rrntorp the. ha?.. Ifi Uract. brauty ant FMEE charm la the neck ttlBITC 6n,t chl" Tr I' ll nils lir.Prstil.arral- M "lr pnyaician. n. IVe (He hflndqttl',lif,t J mrilimKnml rrfatctt & - rxpfrlcnce. wrllf. Dr. Pratt. 1111 Broadway, N. T shallowly nnd narrowly bound or ccrded , on the edpes with black. The timo;ft 1 of bodices is trimmed in some way to harmonize with the skirt nnd afglrdle is ' of black with sash ends. The effect is , rierttliarly i()uant and pretty. A clsvor ' iiiranRement of pony radium and black taffeta is pictured on this page and U worth notice liecause of its originality, which does not prevent Its havng an "lr s"nP'lcjiy. ') Silk ratine, or silk towelling, or si. take your choice of '! rZ 'names, und the material itself varies in ' "r:"!"? 1 ,l:lv"l ,n o..r. ... de icioiis shades, A deep lvor- and a .,111 ,i.. - .v... t. .iM( i.i,.r 1 , ' , 1 i . 1 1., .ki. ol"r ,T P'rt,l;,tar,; f.011 I,h' ' '"1,erW- n'"1 ""'" on9 of ' ll"av-v "",cramA l:,ce" of ,nme eo,of I make" a ,"08t "ttractive frock, ' "Tm ' 'Tef 1 " tU" ""w1 l"d 11,9 hW'y. ' J. I ?ftr." u.l,e,, f.or ,hB u.pp,T P"rt ,of ,wnc " "mer 10 mnKe lne ,r0CK fortably cool. Modified Jumper arrange- I ....., u-tth iImi vnl-Af nnrl sleeres of ' -hVeV -nariai a f reqWUy used for th. heavier sumiiier mat erlals. 1 h". ?.VL ,th, ? , ill iii.iiiv iir. mrnyr-t in".. whlnli in mm-., nr leas ronh. and tlis ootton cordiirovs in white are. like lhe 1 linens, very popular -pei haps the met popuiar or nvuenais ror ine wnue sum I nmr i.,.:lif '1 liato ib nnn(hr Vh tD , m.'ii Ari'il of iiikttiu thn iLima vrptirlit it 11 I . , l...l.....i.,,. til... !,.. .vs MvfliieAV fit ! 'Zft .."i, ' 2 -inXV in'.ieh ' 'PIivnl. This 'is known as ftusel." cord, nnd has a heaTT, very hrd onl - It I.,.. vu,-.. .,.,li-K nir but won il nitlier lucre of a prolt'em to the lsundte than the mrdiin.v Hoth of I lies? lint rr it Is tollle .l Mil V" k