THE SUN, SUNDAY APRIL 14, 1912.
TUCKED UP DRAPERY
MURKS NEW GOWKS
The Sprinc Fashions Noturesque,
Practical hut Tempt to
FLOWING LINES AND CURVES
Not All the New Frocks Draped
-Pretty Skirt Effects-Tho
The modish frock of this season may
h picturesque, may he practical. may
l liolli picturesque and practical.
Whn one finds a model nnqtieatlnn
atilr belonging to the third class one
will do well to cleave to It; for tempta
tion toward the overpicttiresque Mid
the impractical lurks in every shop,
Thfir l the weak point in the season's
modes, which are. on the whole, delight
ful The woman who cannot with any
congruity wear a certain extreme mode
seems to gravitate toward that mode.
M the sparks fly upward, and them It
very prolahllity that costume even
more fearful and wonderful than those
of yester-year will lie Been this summer;
hut for the woman who known her own
possibilities and limitation thia season
In full of opportunities for successful
The picturesque of the extreme type
and the picturesque of the conservative
tTpe are fairly well illustrated by the
two frocks sketched for the large cut.
Both are charming in Volor and in ma
terial. Both are strictly of the moment
in line and detail, hut almost any woman
to whom pink in becoming might wear
the rose taffeta and only th exceptional
woman could wear the green and cream.
The difficulty does not lie in the color
or the material but in the exaggerated
quaintness of line, which means con
plcitotinsA of a sort, and consequently
means that the wearer should have a
figure and face justifying the bid for
attention nude by the frock.
A picture frock on a woman who Is
net In the picture is a distressing sight,
and the lamentable thins about the mat
ter is that a large (wrcentage. of women
seem to Buffer from incorrigible astigma
tism when it comes to seeing themselves
as others we them.
But the fact that the more extreme
of this season's mods are sure to be
bused doej jiot niter the fact that they
rw in wieiiiarivrs more loveiy man ine
extremes of fashion usually are. Of
course the materials and colorings have
much to Wo with this; and the exaggera
tion to which the straight andj narrow
silhouette had run disposes women to
welcome flowing lines and moderate
The soft taffetas are at their best In
LINGERIE AND SATIN.
thate picture frocks; for try as they will,
tailor never succeed In making taffeta
suits and frocks of a tailored sort alto
gether graceful and satisfactory, and
even the little afternoon frocks of taffeta
of m simple kind are very likely to lie
fussy or clumsy rather than chlo; but
In flowing frocks and slightly bouffant
draperies this silk is admirable.
Paquin is responsible for the quaintly
draped model of the picture, and the back
of the frock is the interesting feature
of it, though the taffeta baok drapery
does extend on either side so that it it
visible from the front and givea a novel
line to the silhouette). This drapery is
formed from two straight wide breadths
doubled back upon themselves and at
tached to the rounding basque tab in such
a line that they flare softly yet crisply
in a fashion which could not be achieved
in a silk more fluent and supple than
The rose frock is, like the green one,
of changeable taffeta, but the rose is
merely shot with whito so that it runs
through soft, luscious (.hades of its own
colors. The skirt falls gracefully and
simply in long full folds, a petticoat of
lace showing narrowly in front. The
sides of the skirt are embroidered deli
oately in crystal and are held at knee
height by a big soft bow of old blue
Telvet, which spreads across the creamy
lace of the petticoat. A similar bow is
posed on the front of the bodioe, whose
elote-fltting lines, long waist, tight
sleeves with elbow frills and bertha of
very fine lace are all, like the skirt and
the color scheme, of Louis XV. genie,
though in 1912 adaptation.
The petticoat mid draped overskirt
at train appears again and again among
the morn elaborate evening gowns,
particularly where taffeta is the silk used;
and in one of the small pictures aitothrr
frock of this class Is shown. Here the lace
petticoat, shows more widely and ttie
entire bodice Is of the lace, the change
able taffeta being used only fr the over
skirt. When one gets away from the pictur
syiue evening frocks, one finds fewer
extreme draperies, but all the skirts In
soft materials show considerable fullness
and the tucked up drapery in on form
or another I being v-'v widely .
idol ted. Whether j will be aocelited be
either the fastidious women or the crowd
A GOVN OF ROSE TAFFETA WITH
remains to b se.n, but some of its ver-'
sions are really delightful
Scoffing critics declare that a drees of
this kind looks as though an elastic had
Iwen drawn tightly round the body a little
above the knees and the skirt drawn up
and left to fall over the elastic, after the
fash inn which some women adopt in
shortening a long h!irt for walking; but
there's much In the way in which the skirt
is tucked up, lh' lino thU ovcrfttllinj! puff
follows and the general outline of the
skirt. In taffetu this kind of skirt is do.
cidedly bouffant in the miner section.
full ond straight and limp bolow. and Is
rath"r too extretux to tempt any but
the radicals and the adventurous; but
in the softer stuffs it is lss extreme, and
when well made has cachet and charm
A lovely frock of th Ha s was of very
soft she r urea my liiirie mtleri'il over
an under irt of I luu satin or at !eni
,with the Hkirt of 1U..' Mujn ,w the
tuu.el up puff of the lingerie overskirt
This p.iff fell quite limply but vry full
aim iouomt a slightly slanting line ,
iiowiiw.ini irom irn'u m in.')U From
under lh" Indie I up ed:-.,( fell a soft
plai,rl frill of ;ery One , ream lac-. There
! it " V.i " i " i V ' " Minpie
l ng-rie bo i,, , , lnrriw ,lWto,, fris
II i-h-d the long slim transparent sleeves I
, Hiodier clHIinlng model w it , ,e
I,,,.U, , ,, I....I , .... . !
( .. .. ,r - , (, ,,tl1, uuuri SMtl
or tliiepl mi worli eiuhrililery floiinring
villi a bttle pUm b.niste hom iiI.om.
(lh d- e iiiirnidnry. I'h. bodice and
j tucked up overskirt were of soft flowered 1
BLUE VELVET BOWS AND THE
silk in Iuls XVI design of rose and blue
and straw color and there was a flat fichu
of the cut vrork embroidery covering al
most the entire bodice above a girdle of
A method of skirt drapery which merely
gives a little movement to the skirt line's
without introducing any extreme lines or
actual bouffancy consists in placing a
group of tiny horizontal plaits on one side
of a skirt that would otherwise hang in
lightly full folds the fulness of course
more pronounced in back and sides than
in iront .mi esceitenv lAtmn model i
illuhtrating this point is reproduced here
and will show the nurmVr and length of
the plaits, though on account of the .
stripe in the material It Is difficult to indi-
cate quite clearly all the details of a model ,
inn v- rry rwipin 111 mr yei very oe- .
A similar group of tucks is sometimes
usd a"nns th front Instead of on the
sid; b'it In tins un th phlts are set a !
In tie higlii-r cud the fullness resulting!
fiom them is wrled back In soft folds.
to disappn.ir under a str.ilgut back,
of b,h p U,, " irZl !
crouiix attn-top and separating a little
toward the bottom to give glimpse of a
In,l,-I ,lr.,....TO I. .1..
"V '' .-M"il MIIK IV
is only b"iu!i.R It miiiiiiU ;v new note and so 1
it is impressive that the drapery idea Is
t i thing mn-t clearly efnd in one's !
nimd. aft,r a study of the new modeU. and up eaehside of thefrout by a narrow ,
As h beeo said Woni. most ot th.jbd of Mlf.pumn.
BACK AND FRONT OF A QUAINT FROCK OF GREEN TAFFETA. CHIFFON
sKirta m sort material have considerable
fullnetH, but this fullne.s is very likely
loiteneici m ny some transverse tnmming
or. at leat. to b" draaz-xl down
straight clinging lines
Occasionally mn finds a skirt with
sraooth fitting upper section and the
lower part in a plti.'ed flouno walch falls
pe.-fectly etMig.it and 'ft. Hiring not
at all toward the bottom A Collot
in 'mi s i i iiiiuT pai sfi n ra I an t i irax tnis
skirt and the idea has been taken up by
some designers for soft radiums, voiles,
o An accordion plaifri lower skirt
below a tucked up or tunic drapery. I.
another plaited skirt eTect carried out in
chiffon and the very supple materials,
Kor the woman who considers a broken
skirt line unbecoming, there are plenty of
moaeis witnruil lengtli plain front panels.
or mrerly full length button trimming.
The full length line is more often inter
rupted at the waist by a girdle or belt
; than it was a year ago, and often only the
' full skirt length has the feature, but
' even this adds height to a figure,
i A very clever little model of the most
! demure simplicity comes from a famoi s
house and is of black taffeta, with a nar
row panel of white llnon down the full
front length. The llnon has little hem
stitched tucka on each side of a line of
parl buttons arid Int.onholes, and
buttons are sewel on witn red.
taffeta sklit Is very slight Iv fulled ini 1 1 he
walstUnd, but welghied ilovn s th.it ,t
does not flan and bord"red on th boito n
i Moreover it is given the
horizontal nlaits Just below
the hips I
I hit is the skirt is cmgtit up under the
uinit of puffing in a verv small rilait
every two inches for n space of nbout
eight or ten Inches and this gives just the
faintest hint of movement in th otherwise
straight skirt. There are n tucker .mrl
collar and cuffs of the Hnon. I
The belted blouse with straight bisiue
n.m it.. .. i i
though it cuts the height when in material !
contrasting with the skirt or when
trimmed around the bottom by contrast
ing material, and In such versions Is only
for the till and slender, it is much le
trying when it is continued by the line
of the skirt without any iWlnlte line or
band of sspiration. Somo extremely
pretty models on this order nro nude like
thsstr ied chiffon of our sin ill sketch, and ,ow 1 ieent.ro front of Ibe s(lrt ,, sih
psrtlcuUrlyrorKi!utiMorlilisni.Klf!nw.rl,ppic th.. tl,e i ,, ,', ' - ?,
iseTecti.'e In ,ibiio.l imy ofl
JfDie nrigin'il was in linn
w.itte str.pi. lin c'liffon lud a dep
noruer hi piuii cense cttiiton sepirated
1 mm in - i ip- y 1, inrrnw rmwor du -
eia'i. ici's i.murr wis usti iimy on llin
skirt eti.1 was opened up the front to show
a little of the wi.ll.i sitln underslip,
The simpl.. girdled bodice showed a
'. ""'"""""i 01
Willi oris.. and hit itbtin csrisi h.un.
nnisnmg ine sives. in.) girdl' vv.i t.f
wlilio -'I i in ami tii" w.iito f..ni,d iti'in ,il
the frock softened ai! tlw usl of t,K ciffcn i(ii Ua8 ,.r l ic i.n e.i.o, ,l l . T ""' lH,,,s,r sr,:,r' l,',f"r '..'i
to .oft coola. """"JUtoX ZlS ti "-
TTHE BON TON is the "corset
de luxe' for the well groomed
woman the recognized stand
ard of corset perfection.
The prettiest woman lacks charm un
less she has the wit to be well groomed
that is, neatly, becomingly dressed and
above all, trim of figure.
BON TON corsets emphasize a natu
rally good form and create attractive curves
where none existed. A superb figure is
within every woman's power if ane will
but wear the "BON TON."
Scores of the most exquisite and fash
ionable new designs now on display at
all the better stores. Consult your Cor
All Leading Dealers. $3 to $25
i The striped chiffons, radiums, voiles
and other sheer stuffs make up most nt
tinlest of i tractlvely and a good deal Is done with
TAFFETA AND LACE.
nl.-illl ullL' aurl dlrin.. t.. i ..
Drilll V flowered , nm- -ill-- .....
----- -j .iu lCll
theJouy m,rnuNet.o.s and c;,iff0
"'If 1411 mill infill IU1H irtTlsS bill au
n. JMU n ;
course must go ,0 the clJwi inL
of the laundry; but that Is true of the inoie.
Lt.i.r.n.. 11. .. 11 ' ' ,e ,e
e tbonite liiigone models oven when uo
iu is intrixiuced ution them.
Illack sutin or taffeta trims M.me of
the Is-st looking lingerie molel... and in
-ert lace, openwork embroiderv A,"
ro made to how up well bv ha'n.,
them over a veiling of bl, ck chl T.m or
black net. Then. too. black not is ",sd
for inserted binds and frills unon h,
hlte lingerie muterials,
A good lookins frock of white
1 .. ni.t 1. j 1 . : ''oU
, , r I bZTJ"
, , ... 1, , .
buttoning with small whit" sitin liuiw.f.a
tiny w.iislcoit of the sitln witi. ih
I sme points snd buttons shows nt th inn
of th blouse front, und shoni.inr 1...,
, ,e .irrnnge.1 to liarmonU...
'I h ttTert
i exceed nir V food
. Iinrl un lmi.,..i... L
I .. ,h. m -iri .1 Vi7.."
; l(.ick sstln in place of the white will
Verr 'hI results wu"
Vh k""t- -V" -.her
.imiii nun ciingiPic. anil witn b.uiie bcr.lei
lriMiiiiiii.i-, is ill. i. mill, us, ,ii;hi1p Hi,
trucks o: doriHit r p.,ny shrer ; iffs, s'jch
nrirquUeitc. cri'pdu, ladurn,' .V
J ita rirTH Avg.. '
NCAN 3lt' ST..
We nro oli'i'tniK-dtt cxtpiisite arrs;'
of tnie intfrprotctiotis of old
wWrli r;prcnt nny unique Uc-ljnj m
tiflll.hlnt (tilrnlsl ldrn.
i all smi Imparl our r Hftitrtnifo r'
TAni.ltAHi:, LAMPS. SHAPhS find U'n
.srnil fur tlluitrstei rl1otu '
In t'limilna I'rrlty.Sunni'r Ilrf.MloiuiltofCtl
u is I
Mr ntf.l lmiorlaiii vt all
iisnirn Nam t naer i.i.i
snl It vlll re.terr the brttlt.
rharmlnff rprc.slnn of youth.
Tlshlrn Mi In t nder I his
Mmtf and rrntorp the. ha?..
Ifi Uract. brauty ant
FMEE charm la the neck
ttlBITC 6n,t chl" Tr I'
ll nils lir.Prstil.arral-
M "lr pnyaician. n.
IVe (He hflndqttl',lif,t
J mrilimKnml rrfatctt
Dr. Pratt. 1111 Broadway, N. T
shallowly nnd narrowly bound or ccrded
, on the edpes with black. The timo;ft
1 of bodices is trimmed in some way to
harmonize with the skirt nnd afglrdle is
' of black with sash ends. The effect is
, rierttliarly i()uant and pretty. A clsvor
' iiiranRement of pony radium and black
taffeta is pictured on this page and U
worth notice liecause of its originality,
which does not prevent Its havng an
') Silk ratine, or
silk towelling, or si.
take your choice of
'names, und the material itself varies in
1 ,l:lv"l ,n o..r. ...
de icioiis shades, A deep lvor- and a
.,111 ,i.. - .v... t. .iM( i.i,.r
1 , ' , 1 i . 1 1., .ki.
ol"r ,T P'rt,l;,tar,; f.011 I,h'
' '"1,erW- n'"1 ""'" on9 of
' ll"av-v "",cramA l:,ce" of ,nme eo,of
I make" a ,"08t "ttractive frock,
' "Tm ' 'Tef 1
" tU" ""w1 l"d 11,9 hW'y. ' J.
I ?ftr." u.l,e,, f.or ,hB u.pp,T P"rt ,of
,wnc " "mer 10 mnKe lne ,r0CK
fortably cool. Modified Jumper arrange-
I ....., u-tth iImi vnl-Af nnrl sleeres of
' -hVeV -nariai a f reqWUy used for th.
heavier sumiiier mat erlals.
1 h". ?.VL ,th, ?
, ill iii.iiiv iir. mrnyr-t in"..
whlnli in mm-., nr leas ronh. and tlis
ootton cordiirovs in white are. like lhe
1 linens, very popular -pei haps the met
popuiar or nvuenais ror ine wnue sum
I nmr i.,.:lif '1 liato ib nnn(hr Vh tD
, m.'ii Ari'il of iiikttiu thn iLima vrptirlit it 11 I
. , l...l.....i.,,. til... !,.. .vs MvfliieAV fit
! 'Zft .."i, ' 2 -inXV in'.ieh
' 'PIivnl. This 'is known as ftusel."
cord, nnd has a heaTT, very hrd onl
- It I.,.. vu,-.. .,.,li-K nir but won il
nitlier lucre of a prolt'em to the lsundte
than the mrdiin.v
Hoth of I lies? lint rr it Is tollle .l Mil V" k
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