The sun. [volume], April 28, 1912, SIXTH SECTION BUSINESS SUPPLEMENT, Page 17, Image 85

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6
THE SUN, SUNDAY, APRIL :8, 1912.
17
Tlti'v li"orm a Distinct Class of
Workers In Certain
Sections.
MAUflN'E CLIPPERS USED
I'rotlcicncy in tho Use of Such
Aip:tratus Creates a Demand
for tho Men's Services.
The growth of tho sheep raising busl
cess In tho West hu brought into exiat
enco i distinct class of skilled labor.
There ire men who make a specialty of
liheorintf sheop, travolllng along regular
route every year and keeping busy very
noarlr all year round, as there in a steady
demand for their services. The majority
of thoso men oporate the machine clippers.
Long practice Is nocessary to attain pro
ficiency with the machines, which ac
counts in part for tho demand for the
tervirps of these experts.
As the Hhearing Is done at different
times of the year In the various sheep
raising sections the professional shearers
can start work in the South early in the
year nnd gradually work their way north,
receiving good pay for tholr labor. Sheep
cniet not bo sheared too early in tho sea
son, became tlwy are likely to be affected
by cold spoils. To postpono the shearing
until too far along in the summer causes
suffering nmong tho flocks from hot
weather. In either ovent the animals
les? in weight and consequently in value.
Thes professional sheep shearers Iwgin
their soason on the ranches In southern
California. From there they proceed as
far up as the middle of the Stat and then
go through Utah. Wyoming. Montana.
Idaho and Oroenn. Thnv ttnl.t. k
---a " - .' ....iimi 1 HID
shearing in tho last named State along
in ouiy some ums, and arter that they
go to iho Canadian ranclies, where they
complete their work for the nr
Although much clipping is still done by
nana, mo .uexioan anearers being adepts
in this work, the maclne clippers are
rapidly replacing tho hand shoars. It
is necessary to have a small power plant
to run the machines, hut tho rapidity with
whlih tho work can bo done more than
balances tho expense of installation.
On the larger ranches several clipping
otitlitt urn net un. Thnv
pli-ds i ontuinlng two rows of shnfting for
tJie machines, one on eanh i,t ri.
rearer taWo fhoir nlacns in n mm u
)tTy r . 4worl!in8 time.
Mnck. of suvoral thousand sheen are
,r V'l "? 'ro,n he ranges at a tinU. the
ehN l.y itfn1"1 With ,he 8hearin
'Pi Ju.ircr hauls a sheen out of the
hut- behind him and swings it between
,ls kimes, holding it by thoEhead to that
Yu".: "S, ' "J: a sitting position. He
.fd Kn done byhand ad doin ne EE
MiMKiiwy una evenly. An TmDortant
r it it. machine shearing is that byi
a civ.it .leal more wool is obtained, which
mm-ascs the yield enough to .pay he ex-
penses of the power plant for operating
the olippera. The sheep are branded
after they have been sheared. It is im
possible to chango a brand put on In this
ay,
Tho lmnn.l.( ...... t.lL At --
wonal shearers play in tho eheep raising
JV o "osteon ne reniisr.ea wjien
"nui ui a Biim-ii cinsun are wspeoieu
Oregon has more than Z.OOO.OOO sheep in
It a" ilooks, Idaho upward of 2,500,000.
Montana 4,500,000 and Wyoming, accord
ing to estimates, provide grazing room
for over 4,800,000. Adding to these figures
or the biggest sheen raising Htates thoso
or other sections, thorn am said to bo
40,000,000 wool and mutton producers
on tho ranges of the United Htates.
In order to nnoourage the development
annually at tho Agricultural Collogo or
the Ohio Htate University. Prizes are
offered by tho university, by wool buyers
un- iiiiuiuiaciurers 01 sneoring
machines. The work of the contestants
la niammlllmA 1... . 1 1
quality of the shearing, tho least number
of outs inflicted on tho sheop.spaed, hand
uik ui Biiecp, iianuiing oi sonars unu mo
skill with whloh the wool is tied into
hllnrl m Thna a. .. ........t I . I ....
at the university, In whloh each con-
reoeivod thirty points each for the quality
,nn IUI1IUIIII), IIHIlUklTU 11TU UUIB Ull 1IIR
first annual animal and only one on his
iTCuunu, was raven oi nine ana mieen
points respectively for speed, five points
each for the way ho handled his shears,
fourteen and fifteen points for skilful
handling of the sheep and nine and ten
bundles of wool.
There was a class In this competition
for boys under 19 years of age. In an
other contest, wher speed was not a
f .1... wtHHHM ..n., . ...l M u 1..
down ewe in two minutes and twenty
ncoonas. inn sneep usru were lani'ii
from tho college flock, and one of them
produced eighteen pounds of fleece.
IN SLUGGISH TURKEY.
T
Effect of Molsturo on Flhrcs Has
llcen Given Consideration.
CliOTIT LENGTHS CHANGE
Measurements May Not. Affrco
When No Chango of. Condi
tions Can lio Perceived.
Sheep Rhearlng ArromplUlieil as In the
Centuries Cinne It.
NVhlle the sheep IndiiBtry in Turkey
Is one of the oldest In the country, having
existed for centuries in the same pas
tures where nneoitt'irs of the present
herders tended their Hocks, there np
tiears to havo been llttlo ibiprovement
In tho method of breeding or ciieuring
the sheep. Tho manner of shearing
sheep In Syria and In nil Asiatic Turkey
has remained unchanged through the
centuries, consular and t ratio reports
Shearing Is still nccotnplished In the
crudeet way. tho workers always leaving
u considerable amount of wool on the
animal, while the fleece removed is cut
most unevenly. The -hearers frequently
cut great holes in the kins of tho sheep,
which by tho use of modern shearing
machines could easily h avoide.l.
In the vicinity of Aleppo and the con
tiguous territory there are nlxnit 3,flon,ono
cheep, producing about R.nim.ttti pounds
or wool a year : Kagd.id and vicinity,
Mosoul, Damascus and north In the in
terior of Asia Minor thero uro also great
numbers, which will give some idea or tho
need for modern shearing machines
Some of the principal wool buyers c.r
Aleppo are also importers and commis
sion agents, and us the importer handle
practically all the goods entering the
country and are in close touch with the
wool producers It seems likely that tho
quickest and surest way to introduce
sheep shearing machines would lie
through certain of these business men.
About the only horse clippers in use are
a few pairs of ordinary hand clippers
owned hy Kuropeans. Horses are sel
dom clipped In this country, and it would
probably be difficult tolntroduee machines
for that purpose, though they are needed
verv much. The matter might also lj
taken up with the importers.
ft-5
r - i
Clarence Whitman
& Co.
Commission
Merchants
39 & 41 Leonard Street
New York
1 1
Paragon Worsted Co.
Manufacturers of
Fine Fancy Worsteds
And Piece Dyes for
Men's Wear Trade
MILLS: PROVIDENCE, R. I.
WARREN & HULL
Selling Agents
215 Fourth Avenue, New York City
When is a yard a yard and when Is a
pound a potind Is the concrete way of put
ting the question that to-day Is all Im
portant in the textile Industry, writes
E. II. Marble in the Tmtltn Mnnufarturtra
Journal. At u particular time and under
pcclflo conditions a certain length of
cloth agrees wltli u certain length
of measured surface; at another
tlmo and under almost imrerounlr.ed
changed conditions they do not ngreo,
A llttlo variation in th tension, causing
the cloth to be retarded cr conversely
move more frenly along Its path of travel
and you introduce the elemont of stretch;
a variation in the amount of this stretch
varies tho length of measured cloth.
How much stretch shall be ulloued is one
of the questions to be considered.
Tim effect of moisture upon the I'.bers
i has been considered and excellent formu
las nrrived at by which the variations of
cotton and wool con bu determined with
reasonable exactness, but theso rules do
not apply to the organized fabric.
perimenls mads In an endeavor to read
just thee" fromulashavH i;tvon very vai;uo
results, so laru a number of elements
enter into the consideration of thebitbjrct.
Tho absorption by the fabric of from 3
percent to 4 per cant, of moisture takes
placo within a very short space of time,
and this absorption results In u change in
the length of the fabric that does not seem
to be consistent with any known law.
While the added moisture can bo com
puted, and tho changes In weight noted,
which is the correct fabric to pass upon,
the fabric in its primary or tho fabric in
tho secondary or moisture absorbed con
dition? In some cotton organization
this is a very important question, us even
the moisture necessary to manufacture
properly the particular fabric has to be
removed In a largo measure before the
fabrlo is in condition to receivo its next
treatment.
In woolens the changes by absorbed
moisture are not as radical and have com
paratively little influence on the width
or length of the fabric.
Hut another element enters Into the
consideration of both the cotton and the
woolen fabric. In tho clothing industry
the amount of bhriukage under severe
I application of moisture, or the absolute
shrinkage of the fabric, is a most impor
tant question. The clothier, if he bo hon
est, will present to his customer a garment
' prepared so as to retain its shape and size;
in other words, will condition that fabrio
so as to make the garment unchangeable
under t reasonable conditions. Hu will
steam, sponge, London shrink, perhaps
'deoatize his goods before cutting up,
and by so doing his resulting fabrio will
be much altered in weight por squaro
yard, lie has shrunk it in width nnd in
length, so that whilu his weight per
piece may vary but llttlo from the original
figures, yet his square yardage is different
aud he has acquired an entirely different
fabrio.
While the thorough clothing manu
facturer has taken this Into considera
tion In making his purchase and made
! allowances accordingly many others do
not or will not recogulzo tho facts, and
the resulting controversies many a textile
manufacturer will recall.
How to reconcilo theso variations In
length, width and weight Is perhaps as
Interesting a problem as any board of
arbitration has ever been confronted with.
Complaints of shortage are not pleasing to
tho manufacturer, nor are they productive
of good feeling between manufacturer and
buyer. Whilo neither wishes to charge
the other with dishonesty, or oven care
lessness, yet tho thought that everything
is not quite square in tho deal make each
a little suspicious, to put it mildly. An
error of 1-ieth of an inch in tho cir
cumference of a yard measuring drum
makes about 1-flth of 1 tier cent, error
in the measurement of a pleco of fabric,
while an Increase of half a pound in the
tension upon the cloth caused by addi
tional friction of tho cloth upon "bars or
roll will often make much more or a
variation in the measurement of fabrics,
and such changes as these will occur in
drum or tablo without being noticvd
In tho more elastic fabrics a chango of
tension will causo an error of rrorn I to
per cent.
Now this error is due to what? Per
haps the renult of carelop.iness; perhaps
the differenco between tho smoothness of
different bodies, as in the case of friction
bars, theSfaco of tho fabric, th wirfaco
of tho table; perhaps tho effoct of dry
Bess or moltture, I.e., ollmatlo conditions.
"Now there you go," soWo friend will re
mark, "climatic changes." Wo nro ho
ginnlng to real bo that this is ono cause
of failure to duplicate measurements
That cllmatlo conditions havo something
to do with tho fabrio will be seen from
the report on a test made a short timoago.
A piece of cotton fabrio was carefully
run over a drum that had beon accu
rately tested; ten revolutions of the
drum were presumed to bo twenty yards,
and they were proved to be so by a non
elastlo steel tape with a variation of less
than an eighth of an inch. The samo
fabrio was laid alongside of tho same
tape on a cleaned floor, being carefully
unrolled without any tension or strain,
and comparison with the previous marks
showed the fabrio two inches short, and
after twelve hours anothor comparison
bowed a further loss of almost three
quarters of an inch.
The fabrio weighed as first measured
sixteen ounces to the square yard, was 31
Inches wide and wns within n very small
per cent, of correct, but on tho second test
showed a gain of half a pound, or about
.08 per cent. Another piece of fabric of
the samo construction from a different
loom submitted to the amo test showed a
loss in length of less than one Inch and a
slightly increased gain In weight. Theso
tests were carried on by careful men, who
eliminated every possible chance of error
in the handling of tho fabric, yut they
could not ngreo upon tho rule for this dif
ference. A fabrio of same weight per
square yard but of different construction
tested at t he ssmn time showed practi
cally no variation in length when first laid
down, but contracted more thsn either of
the other two piecef, Tho increase in
weight wan only ,o.i per cent. 'I he ill
taatlo change were entirely different and
could oniy oe tormuiavea to meet uie issi
fabrio,
Boveral testa on fabrics of various con
structions showed Interning but hot con
oluslvo evidence of how fabrics were affected.
In woollens similar tests showed re
sults as varying, though the changes were
much mora gradual In their ncllott,
twenty-four hours being allowed between
the first nnd second testing. Worsteds
and woollens went not affected alike.
A ten ounco very (Inn serirn and a six-
teen-uUTice tlilbet were comttared. The
elastic feature of tho soooud showed Itself,
wlille tho hioro open fabrio was more sun
eepllhlo to the absorption of moisture.
Thoie nro but n fow of the studies that
have been made, und as yet wn huvn not
neon nolo to rormuials uny rtilo thtr. vas
applicable to any of the fabrics.
In refwenco to tho matter of ehrlnkaae
of fabrics we can iWt repeat a remark I
ny ono oi mo sutaenis or trus subject,
using a llttlo (UITcreiil wording to apply
to this particular condition: "It len t
nny dishonesty on tho part of tho manu
facturer, or any attempt on the part of the
buyer to get morn for his money, but n
lack of application of known principles."
Coupled with this wo would add that
most of the diflerences found can be
readily explained by a better understand
ing of these eume principles, and in the
case of , seme of tin buyers st lens: by the
display of n little iiiore int'lligeiic in tho
iK'lectlon of the fabiicn for tno purposo
to which they ar to bo put. When a
clothin? manufacturer uelorts a fabrio
that any manufacturer will tell him
ought to contract fro.n 1 per cent, to l'-a
tr cent, in the khnuking, and the cloth
ing manufacturer allows U to contract
one-half tnat a.aoitnt, im.mi, after making
up his garuenis, has k n i-Hiiirtid for
faults Induced by ihii Mime hick of proper
t!irinkage, ne run .)ee iioot'ir way than
for thut same manufacturer to resolve
to tine more intellectual btl'lness prin
ciples neivarter.
Vo h'irdly know how this whole ques
tion van ' settled intUf ictorilv until
the textile manufacturer, with the edi
tions necessity for hi success, nnd the
clothing manufacturer, with the con
ditions he must tii'-et in his business.
me brought closer together, esch en
deavoring to nf.iist tho other in over
coming ihn difficulties and differences
which aro found to occur in the matiu
fncturo and hntidling of this flexible and
ehaitgi'.iblH vet lied Trtielc "f mmu
fiuture. It in Mm old illiisirition of the
raw product of the one bollix th" finished
product of Urn otliiT, and n nmre thor
ough knowldK' by ouch ono interested
of the cotiditlimi i I vi t the other lias to
meet will avoid or cllmmtte many cises
of --coming errors which havo shown
th"molvo
It hns long l-en loeoguized by the
mp'i'n wear trade tint lb" subject of
shrinkage of fubrirs wan one that de
manded cIomi Mi,iy nnd cireful consid
eration, continued lh" trade aier. Thh
fact has been made oven more (Mlcnl
bv the insistence id time on the part of
the clothier of some recognised Htimd f I
that might lx applied to the shrlnkuge
nuestion. The matter was brought up
formally a few years ago befute the
American A-oci.H ion of Woolen nnd
Wotsted M iniit ictmers, and it was then
determined and admitted by the buyer
that no uniform rule or standard could
lie established which would apply t" all
i:iss. It has Ih'-ii intimatod of lato that
furlhornrtion will lo taken hy the clothier
in an endeavor tn secure recognition of
hn claims on tho subject, but jutt what
will lt done no one In prepared to say.
Varioiu ideas nro expressed by sellers
as to the attitude of the clothier and tho
r.ocvssary piecautions to be taken by the
manufacturer In order to eliminate or re
duce the element of uncertainty con
nected with this subject. Undoubtedly
there are many eaMv tn which tho clothier
I too exacting and unreasonable- in claim
ing on merchandise which may or may
no- be faulty in tho tmtter of shrinkage.
Nevertheless on tho other hand it is alto
plain, oven to sollors. that tho manufac
turer Is at fault in a good many instances
and must bo sure that his skirts are clean
before ho can condemn tho clothier too
harshly for action In tho matter. On
this subject a wolbknown selling agent
recently remnrked:
"I do not know why the clothlor Is not
ontitlod to information as to tho exact
yardage he buys, just us much as he should
know and does know to-day the weights
cf various cloths. It was not so very long
ago thnt fluents refused to give these
weights, and it was found that in certain
cases at least the reason therefor was that
ninnufacttiren- were delivering scant
weights and wore depending for their
margin nf profit on tho reduction from tho
spocifio 1 weight in tho order taken. 1
am afraid that thin is true in instances
in connection with tho shrinkage question
Tho manutacturer or his representative
sells at a dangerously low price, relying
upon the chnnco of delivering lets yardage
in the tlnal analysis thm the order calls
for. The stretch in goods can be made
very considerable by the processes suc
ceeding weaving, anil when the goods aie
shrunk by the clothier tho resulting net
length means that he i paying lor more
than he gets.
"(Jur principle," continued the same
authority, "is that tl.tiyardace which we
deliver to our customer hhould bo prac
tically the same as the yardage of the
cloth ns it comes oft" tho loom. We deliver
our goods l)iidon shrunk and the stretch
which naturally takes place ns a ronsn-
qiienee of procesin succeeding weaving
is eliminated by this method Wo guar-J
antee our goods an this basis and have
had practkully no complaints Wo will j
sell our good's utidhrtmk. but will not
guarantee any amount of shrinkage, but
if the buyer will pay us the puce bused
on i,ondo'u shrinkage we will give him a
guarantee that the fabrics can be at once
cut upwithoiit tho necessity of any f tuther
shrinking During the last year we have
had just two complaints about this method
nnd havo found it to work very satisfac
torily both for ourselves and our cus
tomer." Another member of the trade, who is s
practical man nnd who gives particular
att?niion to -hl subject in connection with
tne product of several mills, stated the
other day that although certain manufac
turers havo installed London shrunk
plants In their mills the effectiveness of
tho process was frequently counteracted
by the lack of knowledge as to how to
roll or lolil tho goods, as tho tension rn
them under this nrocess frequently put
back again tho full amount of shrinkage
that had been taken out by tho London
shrunk process, In other words, he
claimed that it would have been just as
well, if not better, to clirriinto shrinking.
A prominent sponger and retlnisher who
has mado a study of tho London shrunk
process will givo a guaranteo on goods
which will not shrink moro than 5 per
cent, in length, but claims that on any
constructions that w ll bo reduced further
than this it is impossible to state that
they will not shrink further under tho
iron. Tho complaints from tho clothier
havo been thnt even on London shrunk
goods tho process or tailoring causes a
further shrinkage nnd it would seem that
much of the difficulty was dependent upon
the construction of tho fabric. With the
increased usj of wool goods, naturally
woven moro loosely, thero has been more
complaint on the question of shrinkage,
nnd whilo often tho claim or the clothier
is so transparently a Mibtorfugo to escape
responsibility for accepting goods which
he does not. wnnt, yet at the samo time
tho manufacturer is beginning to tcnlize
that certain constructions will result In iin
iiniisii il degree of shrinkage and thut thin
fact must be mado known to tho buyer
nnd that tho latter must buy them on
his own responsibility. In certain ranges
of goods d I fiuent patterns shrink dif
ferently nnd it is Impossible to give nnv
specific amount of shrinkage that will
comprehend everything. Increased earn is
undoubtedly being taken I o eliminate con
structions tint will result in unduo shrink
age, The many lines of fancies and novel
ties which havo been shown during tho
Inst, season or two undoubtedly compre
hend many difficulties that are ns real
to tho manufacturer as they are to the
clothier, nnd that extra care will be ob
served in the future to eliminate the possi
bility of dispute on this Point seems tn
j lo generally admitted. On certain lines,
ioi iiinuiiii-n, lutiiiiitaciurern are weaving
j their goods M Inches wide so that there
i n ill not iMt any possibility of their shrink
lug under ."it indies,
PEACE DALE MANUFACTURING CO.
WORSTED SUITINQS, WOOLEN CA5S1MERS,
MAS & DROWSE, A'. K, Agts., 211 BROAD LOOMS, 4 NARROW LOOMS, THIBETS
" ' si-'-' ,
4
lLtiiiMir"--T in, r"
a
THE SCRIVEN UNDERWEAR
j mH a 9 i
Practical,
Comfortable
and Durable
That Every Man or
Boy Who Reads This
Should Wear These
Garments and Thus
Be Relieved of His
Underwear Troubles.
HAM
CS ti Off.
You Take No Chances We Guarantee Satisfaction
ALL
SCRIVEN UNDERWEAR
HAS THE
5CRIVEN STAMP On Each Garment
Look For It Take No Other
No ripping, or tearing, as the
insertion gives at just the right
time and place, and takes the
strain from the body of the
garment.
So comfortable and smooth
fitting you are not aware of their
presence.
You can assume any position
without wear or tear on the
goods.
Address Department 5,
All can be fitted, as we make
all waist sizes from 28 to 50
inches, and all leg lengths from
28 to 36 inches.
Your Dealer Will Sup'
ply You
We have an illustrated book
let of prices and styles which we
would be pleased to send on request.
Remember Our Guarantee
J. A. Scriven Company
Sole Manufacturers
16 & 18 East 15th St., New York City, N. Y.
in
J