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THE SUN, SUNDAY, JUNE 23, 1912. I Fremont Day Athletic Costumes nt Onrc Becoming; nntl J'nicticsl. Xi:W IX UI1 UNO HABITS Fnsliions for Motoring and Ten nis Tito Blazer Very Popular. Every once in a while somebody re marks with devout thanksgiving in his tons that the athletic girl has gone nut of fashion, that tlin fail for mannislniess in sports and attire has subsided. 'Ibis would lie interesting If true As a matter of fact, it Is true that out of door eorts are no longer n fad with women. In stead they rp taken as n matter of course, livery girl who 1 brought up with. any idea of a social career is educated in port as carefully ax in the three Its, and the girl who does not ride, play a fair game of golf and tennis, swim and trump through the country in sadly out of it ia a summer community. If she hunts, fishes, runs her own cur, sails her own boat, drives four-in-hand or tandem or plays polo, so much the better. But as sports have become not a fad but a rational part of a girl's education, so the costumes for sports have lost their welrdness and taken on both the practical and the coquettish. The athletic girl to day dresses appropriately for each sport, but dresses becomingly too, and each season brings slight novelties or at least slight variations in sporting attire. The use of the cross saddle habit Is, of course, the most noticeable departure in riding clothes. Only a few years ago the woman who rode cross saddle was the exception, and here in New York cross saddle riding whs practically taboo, but that has been changed Practically all the young girls are being taught to ride astride and many of the older generation are adopting the cross saddle, at least for country riding and sports, though they may still ride a side saddle in the park. The discussion as to the coniaratie safety of the two methods goes mainly on and the general opinion seeras to he that the hide saddle in this day of safety skirts is safer for a woman than the cross saddle, but the latter is better for the horse and possibly for the rider's figure Mean while the habit makers are turning out a very larger percentange of ernes Kiddle habits nnd that shows which way th" wind is blowing. The long coat and breeches seem to behaving things very much their own wr.y, though here and there one tees n divided skirt The latter style is preferable for the elderly or distinctly stout woman who insists upon riding astride. The cut of the coat varies in the close. nes of its fitting, the flare of its skins and its length. The coat most generally used is remi-fitting and reaches almost if not quite to the boot tops when the wearer is dismounted Properly strapped down, this coat falls smoothly on each side of the saddle to the boot tops, but there are more radical coats of hunting type, whose sharply flaring skirts are much shorter than the conservative long, loose coat WpII titled breeches, reenforced on the inner side with buckskin are made with the coat and are sometimes worn too with the side saddle skirt Hoth cross saddle and side saddle habits, the latter cut according to tome one of the various safety devices, are mtrie up in whipcord, in tine black anil while cheek, and in linens for summer uee. melton being reserved for more formal wear The linen habits, chiefly in tiiitural tone and in mixed black and white weave suggesting a pepper and salt gray, are very shapely garments nowada vs. and when well shrunk, well cut and made of excellent material are) not only com fortable but practical, standing frequent tubbings without losing their admirable lir.es The riding loot of tan nissla, light it ?i ' ''; ' V-i-i''.'r''f''Mei"' 1 ""''"i.Awi.tiin.)),, ., , . mmmBuV!?mme ! IHIIII I I I "' ' of weight and wry soft, is the nvt iom- lortauie summer tootwear. but some women luefci" tin- black lm.it m.rl mlier affect the pigskin puttee voi n with a tun laced boot of ordinary vnlkitg lyre. The soft white h!. n'mg -I ut with mannish Mock i -ihut- ''e most com fortable and pxpulai l ii.-ii; llou-e, bill the seveiely t.n!nii: , f hin II or of madras h a'so snir In hats the natn.w I .! . .T unv.n rough sii ilor and vari'" i i- t the derby seem to have 1--i i la . u-,. m- COMle llelllg e,s nten -i !1 M.U Mul tll.'lll in other H'li-oiis. 1 lie s'.ia il-rhifs, light or dark, am oomia'atnc lv n. w and have been takin up enthusiastically m hngland. Hie hiighsh uiM'.eN ranging all the way fiorn a derby ol iianmv bum, cloely tolled ur siiaiclit. to a deiby crown sailor bap, v.lmsi wide brim may mil eSy -lightly or not at nil. Th are, too. cr.nibiii.:i.irs ol black 'ilk I ea liet er crown and bluet, Mian bum numn the ruling dribie. (luting hats ol all kinds am inthei more intoie.-ttiig than ii-ual tin- sea-cn To le sum, them is little that is al -o. lutely new in shape, but new material and ii.mbinaiioiis i.f maiorl.il and urn tricks of tiiinmiug nr" it- evidence. The epnngo winch is mi prominent as hock material and trimnnni; ha, I ten Usui lot outing hats loo, and U blocked into all the small, close fining roll brim sham's. The wide wale piqiu1 und cotton corduioy are treated In the mi hip way nnd tho regulation roiduroy too i used, par tiiMiIarly in the soft light blown. Thin there am combitinli'iiih of stiaw and cpongc, straw nnd linen, straw and white felt. SometiincH both tho Miaw and the other material anv. while, home, times a hemp braid of gay hue turns a soft white felt and laces lis bilm. Pana mas am na opulur as ever and thorn am other, cheaper, Mipi straws blocked in the roll biim Panama shapes, Hallors with crowtm and brims, in vary ing degrees rd height and width a'ni ahown in rough straws and in boil felt. Tus- RIDING CLOTHLS FOR CROSS AND SIDE SADDLES. sor, taffeta, quaint flowered silk", linens and tretonnej am all used for th; stitched ' luting hits and for stiller shape in com i binatiuii with siraw. clever little tennis hats of the lound I clns.. Mown and nnrow lolled and rim tye ale made in soft white felt or other s"ft materiil and liae two tennis rackets, mule fioii) flti" dark bluo silk braid or c'ird. cro-sed on the fiont of th" crowii , l"i- the f.idy trimming. The firm that , shows the.,, shows also an odd but un ifvmmoiily clue outing hat of whil pjti- am.i around whos? crown are posed, flat on tho straw like Japinc.se silhouettes, small swallows in black and dark purple. At first dance these anniieH Kilhimnttes seem not to be in ntlief at all, but a closer examination mveala the fact thai they ai i'oimcd of tiuv feathers inwl e.ieli l.irH is covciu.l with tulle of exactly the color of the 'e 1 1 hom holding the latter in pl ice, 'Ihis description is inadeiiate, lim the effect is to illy us admirable as it is novel. Ot motor li.it s much li is lieen written in theso columns. There are innumerable fetching little boniieis and hats for motor puiposei, all soil, clinging closely to the heid, cully veiled. Hoi weather has brought out light weight motor coats and dust cnitsgaloro, and iiinong t)n novelties is a dust coat of Italian sill; such as is Usually associated with underwji.,. Tlii-t HiHy woven, i'tr,ioidiuarily supple, light silk, in col ore ranging I'mm tho h.'jht grays and bis cuilH to laiipo tones, dark blues and prune shades, is mado up in the simplest and hovertvt of lines with a collar that cm lie adjust !! high about tho throat or rolled ihwn, nnd long sleeves that can bo titrappcd clo-cly at tho wrist. Then-eight, of such a iloak i almoin a negligible ipian tliy; it oin In packed into an absurdly small spaco, it is utterly iincrushable, and dual cannot penotrute it, soil is no wonder that the-, coats, though not cheap, have sold readily for tr.nelling and motoring puipose. The llnn motor eintn of this summer arc at their lieM. exceedingly smart look ing garment, ns lurefully cut and tailored as th models in clot h and cpnto as shapely. The soft heavy linens that do not crush reidily are chesen and the best model are built upon seveie lines with no trim ming save stitching and buttons. Occasionally a lining or facing of col i. or of gayly flowered linen or en? ton is used and shows In collar and ruffs, but the untrimtiied models am really the best looking and the sumo is true of coats in soft, hiiivy tu.ssor. A linen ol supple yet firm wetve in a rattier Itrge black and white check makes a chic co.u when cut on strictly tailored line., with loosely lelted back, raglan sleeve, adjustable stoim collar and no trimmings save big buttons in white and blick pcirl. Kpotige is another popular materiil for the summer motor co.it and is goixl in all the khaki, sand nnd mode shades and even the deeper snuff and ginger brown. A model mentioned in Tin-; Si'K eariy in the seison when it tirst appealed, in wool, has been ory successful in enongo and terty ami is an extremely knowing looking cent selling at a sur prisingly low price. It is perfectly straight, clinging, severe, and buttons all tho way up the bide front, even up through tho very high soft collar which swathes the neck closely, but may be turned down in soft revers faced , witli self-color sitin. This simo model is offered in wool ami in silk and is a bit overpopular, but It certainly deserves its popularity. Mohair, which if never a veiy elegant coat material does inako a practical and 'substantial dust wrap for hot weather motoring, has been very cleverly used by aonie of the designers, and particularly in the soft grays with big white buttons rimmed In gray there are some exceed Ingly good looking m-hdr .modela. The grays are, by fho way, very much liked for motor coats: this season and there am coats of gray models in everything from homespuns, and tweeds to silk ( Certain watciproofed twilled silks sug- gesiing wiupeoril mine very service able tiretty dust coats and there ire good things in taffeta and in surah. Of tho wool coats littlo need b" said. They are legion, fashioned lrom any and all of the light weight woollns .suitable for the purpose, tweeds, terry, serges, Ac Wluie coats cannot perhaps be re- garded as practical motor coats, but thev play an important r6e in connection with summer, sports anil big, loose, shorty looking coats of white eponee, terry, rough serge and other effective stuffs am showii.aud worn; but the white polo coat of laet year has passed. Sweaters of the. knitted kind are being hard pressed ,y the blazers and norfolks and mackinaws, and perhaps for .that f-'ason have taken on many new varia tions, The hnglih sweater coat on severe coat lines but knitted or woven to sjinu. late knitting in solt Angora wool is con sidered very modish for real service and come- in attractive heather mixtutes and In Hi" soli grays, browns and gicens. Very light weight sweaters of very line fle'ey Angora wool are shown and silk knitted sweaters an well as wool sweaters with collars, cuffs and pocket bindings if knitted silk in contrasting color are popular. The college and club' color stripes used for the gay blazer coats are echoed in knitted sweaters. '1 he blazers are being done to death and manv of them are too crude in color ing to be becoming, but they do brighten a summer outdoor scene, and worn with white skirts and little stitched hats of the stripe with rolled brim of white are gay and jaunty for youthful wearers. Less spectacular are the loose, comfortable norfolks in soft wool. They are ample, well supplied with pockets sometimes but not necessarily and of bright soli 1 color. red or green or .blue. White norfolks, norfolks of white and black check or stripe or fleck, of mixed tweeds, of cor duroys or uny material suitable for sport ing wear In n scparato coat are sanctioned by tho fashion makers. The plain nnd plaid mackinaws with or without hoods belong in the Norfolk class and have been worn by college girls for several years, but have only this season come into general use.x The col lege girls too have popularized the block rubber coat and sou'wester for rainy weather wear, and while the coa tume might not look well on Fifth ave nue it lias much to recommend it for sporting uses, making the wearer more secure against heavy rain than any of the dressier raincoats and more conventional hate. Aa for the hecomingnese of the garb, any one who has crossed Smith College campus on a rainy day will be ready to testify that a regulation mannish rubber coot and n sou'wester look amaz ingly well on n young woman. The same costume In oilskin instead of rubber is a valuable thing for the girl who sails. There is no distinctive yachting cos tume nowadays, embroidered anchors and oil that sort of thing being taboo along with visored yachting caps; but a certain sort of thing always looks par ticularly well aboard a yacht, The bid loose, warm coat, severely plain In fin ish and made in rough, white wool or in blue with some relieving touch of white, is always good, and white serge suits or frocks ore in order. The idea so much liked this season of the blue coat with white skirt works out well in yachting costume, nnd linen frocks of a trim and simple sort are always tucked into the yachting outfit. Apropos of white serge, a particularly attractive model from a famous maker has a plain skirt buttoning all the way down the front and is worn with a very simple blouse of soft, heavy, white peau de crepe. The coat of white serge is a sleeveless Norfolk, stitched around the rather large armholes, made with large collar and loosely belted. For tennis wear any very simple linen or serge or cotton frock will do, provided the skirt and blouse allow perfect free dom of movement. The accordion plaited skirts, onoe more in fashion, are pretty and comfortible for tennis if mad in soft material, and the short, loose sleeve, wide at bottom, which is seen on many of the summer morning frocks is just the thing for tennis. A wide wale pique skirt and mannish shirt, a white serge skirt and India silk shirt or a plain white skirt and any very simple tub blouse make a satisfactory costume for either tennis or golf, provided no ooat or sweater is needed. ETIQUETTE IN NOTE PAPER. To the average American woman of twenty years ago note paper was a piece of clean white paper used to write letters on. When she found that her supply had run out she went, as a rule, to the nearest stationer' store, where nine time out of ten she bought the very first box that was shown her. In the large department stores of the larger cities many a woman bought paper simply because it had an attractive bos, and was inexpensive. The paper, of course, was seldom good. There wero some manufacturers at that time who made very fine paper, and who turned out initialled and monogrammed paper of the finest texture, but there were not as many as there are now. To-day, however, conditions are very different . As a nation we ha ve been rush ing ahead these past twenty years, and our private lives have grown accordingly, until now milady must have just this size paper for this letter, another size for that missive, a card for this note, and in each case the envelope must match ex actly, The reason for this is readily under stood. It is really by tho little things of life that, a person's character is deter- mined, and bad taste in note paper speak 1 just as loudly as does a missing button I or on untied shoe lace. By looking at the sue, shade and color of one's paper one can generally tell something of Its owner's character There is the flashy, loud per- I son, with the shade of pink or blue, the careless person with the cheap paper on which th ink blurs, or the dainty lady with her highly glazed white paper, which bears her monogram, and the businesslike woman who uses a large heavy sheet. There have always been "latest fash ions" in note paper as in everything else, but they are seldom heeded by the finest ladies of our land. For her there are three sizes of line textured white paper. The smallest size should be an oblong of about 3' , by 5 Inches. This is for the little notes, such as those used for regrets, congratulations or sympathy. This size paer is often replaced, however, by the correspondence card, that handy little piece of pasteboard that has become so much used during the past two or three years, The second size should be a little larger, 5.6 Inches, and is used for social letters and informal invitations, or for a letter that does not require much length, The third size is quite a bit larger (81,, by n inches) and ttiat is used for the real heart to heart talks that one has by way of the mail bag. It is a big paper, with lots of room for the gossip that tho wait ing friend is so anxious to hear. A new style of paper that has just been intro duced is a double sheet 51,' by ti inches in size. The novelty of this paper is that it is not folded, but is enclosed in an envelope of the same size, The decoration of all these papers should lie very simple. While it is not incorrect to have a liorder, and a border often lK)ks very pretty, there is nothing so elegant or better form than the simple embossed address or crest. The envelops that go with these papers are in exact proportion. The shape of the flap of the envelope changes con tinually, so much so that often it ia hard to say just what shape is correct. At present the pointed flap is in vogue. Another fad that has come in recently is the thin lining for the envelop, It i w foreign idea and it has "caught on" in this country. This lining is of the thinnest of tissue paper and gray and blue are the leading colors. It gives a smart appear ance to the letter and it entirely conceals tho writing. As for tho decoration of the envelope, that is a matter of taste, though the plain envelope is the beat form. If one does use a monogram or a crest It should be placed either on the flap or the upper loft hand comer and should be very small. A quarter of an inch border is suffi ciently wide for mourning paper. It is alisiird to measure one's grief by 'the band of black upon ones stationery. Mourning paper should not be used after thr first yoar. Personal paper bearing one's full house address is a great help to one's friends if one Uvea in town and un absolute neces sity if ono is out of tho city. The coun try house paper should bear the long dis tance telephone number and the full post office address. This will insure quick reply. It is a proper thing for a hostess to leave note papers of all afce in tho guests' rooms. U ia also well to leave some one and two cent stamps with the paper. URGEDJMMffil Mrs. Gosiiip Lcmeke Tninis Out Possibilities of n Vesrc(,. rian Diet SALADS, rilKKSE A N'T) !(;(; Dishes Which Are Knitl to hn. prove the Health mid t!n Looks Alike. Mrs. Hesine I.emcke, the cooking teacher, is a strong advocate of a eu. table diet for the summer, .She says it will improve the health, lnoks ami com. plexion and do much to drive away th, blues. The dishes included in a eg. tarian diet are quite an nourishing as rtiMt dishes, she declares, and are daintier to serve. When you talk to women about Uw no meat dinners, said Mrs. Lemckc, "most -of them at once think of fish. Kuh is a delicate and delightful food, but it must be admitted that ite cooking call for a certain amount of care and det. terlty in 1U pr eparatlon. When It li fried, rather than baked or broiled, great care must be Rlxen to ventilation so that odors may be avoided. 'But beyond fish there are many kindi of food which may replace chops and steaka and chickens. There is rice, for Instance, which la not properly appre ciated in this country, although the fa mous curry chef Joe, who was at Sherry'i for several seasons, did much to popu larize It. "There are the various paste foods uy) by the Italians which are far more In favor with Americans than rice. The natives of Italy are natural vegetarians, living largely on green salads, bread, red wine and various garden products. 'Fruit salads, made from fruits com bined with lettuce or Romalne and served with a French dressing, are finding great approval with American diners. They are refreshing, appetizing and of tonio qualities and quite as satisfying as the usual meat dishes at this summer seaaari, when the palate demands a change. 'Bananas, which are among the most nourishing of fruits, should have a place in all fruit salads. Oranges and grape fruit appear among the best salad fruit; pears and apples combine delightfully with celery. Every no meat dinner ahould have a bountiful dish of fruit salad, varied from day to day as to materials. It should be kept in a cool refrigerator for an hour or so before being served, as this Improves It largely in flavor. "One of the 400 or 500 dishes made from eggs should appear at the no meat dinner. In this country ws associate eggs with breakfast, but the French cooks hai taught us the delicious things that may be prepared from eggs in combination with vegetables and sauces which nvili them pleasing to the eye and the palat-. At the old Hoffman House they m.td a combination of a tomato, peeled nl scooped out and tilled with an egg, hake! and served with a bearnaise sauce. Thi. was called eggs Benedict and was f annus with epicures. But eggs and omelu offer an almost unlimited Held for varying a bill of fare. You could serve eggs in a different style every day of a year and ttiil have several unused recipes. "Cheese is another of the misunder stood foods. Mae- people think cf cheese as something that cornea after dinner, but it makes the beat part of the Italian dinner in its many comblnatior.i with vegetables and macaroni, "Then there is the cheese souffle; and the cheese fondue cheese cooked together with eggs and baked till golden tmivrn, These aro among the dishes that should be cultivated for the home table. "Some Italian cooks can do wonderful things with beans, cooking them 111 some way that sends them to the dinner re sembling ivory. The Italians use many meat juices in the preparation of vege tables; also wines and various herbs and essences. Their cookery ,is very dis tinctive and they are, of course, unsur passed in the making of the various ate that take the place of meat with them. Lentils, artichokes and mushrooms they seem to understand, and all of these ar quite as good as meat hen properly prepared and served. "Egg plant is used by vegetarians cut In the shape of chops and cutlets, breaded and browned. In some or tho foreign shops dried mushrooms maybe bought, and they can lie cooked with great sucre when they are properly seasoned Of course they are not as tempting a fresh mushrooms, but there is all the strength of meat in them. "Soups in great variety may he pre pared from vegetables, but forthe summer it seems as though soup might be appro priately dispensed with as a first cours" "Grape fruit and of course melon ranks a good beginning for a dinner Small clams are liked by most people and the custom is crowinc for the service ef hors d'eeuvres in place of soup Tbev certainly form an attractive dbh nun u is quite possible to get them uplat honi". as nearly all of the small fish -anhn" anchovies, Ac. can lie obtained nl t'ie cooked food stores. "Olives, carciofini, smoked salmon, imported sausage are all to be had in li'" ever quantity is desired. I'lenty of le:na juice should bo used with them salads for this course can all be pteparid at home. Small, sweet red pepp.-i.-r.r good mixed with celery and potato ilil' "There are largo Chum dishes wii.i divisionsmade speciully for horsd iruvris and they are much more effective if pa"?-'1 in this way thun if separate riihe' used. With a dinner at which the u'J.ii roast or entree is not served these fno. make a novelty and they do not m-t mi "All these things help out when a !ln';,' keeping woman decides to boycott 1 1 butcher, Men are the ones who, a general dhing, object to meatle-s meal Women and children are apt to prefer puddings and pastries, fruit, ice crw: c.'ikcs and salads. "As an experiment it would be luuw- keepers could succeed in satisfying their familN with the meatless dinners. They rouM not do so by simply omitting meat "" providing no substitutes. , "Lists should be made out for weekt menus with cheeae, eggs, spaghetti, sal ads, fruits, flab, Iced puddings and ii"'; souffles, strawberry shortcake, je w with fruit, nuta grated and used in nw and Bandwiches, all Hie unusual diH" which through their novelty uiient " an appeal." '