i r t.
THE SUN, SUNDAY, JUNE 23, 1912.
Fremont Day Athletic Costumes
nt Onrc Becoming; nntl
Xi:W IX UI1 UNO HABITS
Fnsliions for Motoring and Ten
nis Tito Blazer Very
Every once in a while somebody re
marks with devout thanksgiving in his
tons that the athletic girl has gone nut
of fashion, that tlin fail for mannislniess
in sports and attire has subsided. 'Ibis
would lie interesting If true As a matter
of fact, it Is true that out of door eorts
are no longer n fad with women. In
stead they rp taken as n matter of course,
livery girl who 1 brought up with. any
idea of a social career is educated in
port as carefully ax in the three Its,
and the girl who does not ride, play a fair
game of golf and tennis, swim and trump
through the country in sadly out of it
ia a summer community. If she hunts,
fishes, runs her own cur, sails her own
boat, drives four-in-hand or tandem or
plays polo, so much the better.
But as sports have become not a fad
but a rational part of a girl's education,
so the costumes for sports have lost their
welrdness and taken on both the practical
and the coquettish. The athletic girl to
day dresses appropriately for each sport,
but dresses becomingly too, and each
season brings slight novelties or at least
slight variations in sporting attire.
The use of the cross saddle habit Is, of
course, the most noticeable departure in
riding clothes. Only a few years ago
the woman who rode cross saddle was the
exception, and here in New York cross
saddle riding whs practically taboo, but
that has been changed Practically all
the young girls are being taught to ride
astride and many of the older generation
are adopting the cross saddle, at least for
country riding and sports, though they
may still ride a side saddle in the park.
The discussion as to the coniaratie
safety of the two methods goes mainly
on and the general opinion seeras to he
that the hide saddle in this day of safety
skirts is safer for a woman than the cross
saddle, but the latter is better for the horse
and possibly for the rider's figure Mean
while the habit makers are turning out
a very larger percentange of ernes Kiddle
habits nnd that shows which way th" wind
The long coat and breeches seem to
behaving things very much their own wr.y,
though here and there one tees n divided
skirt The latter style is preferable for
the elderly or distinctly stout woman
who insists upon riding astride.
The cut of the coat varies in the close.
nes of its fitting, the flare of its skins
and its length. The coat most generally
used is remi-fitting and reaches almost
if not quite to the boot tops when the
wearer is dismounted Properly strapped
down, this coat falls smoothly on each
side of the saddle to the boot tops, but
there are more radical coats of hunting
type, whose sharply flaring skirts are
much shorter than the conservative
long, loose coat
WpII titled breeches, reenforced on the
inner side with buckskin are made with the
coat and are sometimes worn too with the
side saddle skirt
Hoth cross saddle and side saddle
habits, the latter cut according to tome
one of the various safety devices, are
mtrie up in whipcord, in tine black anil
while cheek, and in linens for summer
uee. melton being reserved for more
formal wear The linen habits, chiefly
in tiiitural tone and in mixed black and
white weave suggesting a pepper and salt
gray, are very shapely garments nowada vs.
and when well shrunk, well cut and made
of excellent material are) not only com
fortable but practical, standing frequent
tubbings without losing their admirable
The riding loot of tan nissla, light
?i ' ''; ' V-i-i''.'r''f''Mei"' 1 ""''"i.Awi.tiin.)),, ., , .
mmmBuV!?mme ! IHIIII I I I "' '
of weight and wry soft, is the nvt iom-
lortauie summer tootwear. but some
women luefci" tin- black lm.it m.rl mlier
affect the pigskin puttee voi n with a tun
laced boot of ordinary vnlkitg lyre.
The soft white h!. n'mg -I ut with
mannish Mock i -ihut- ''e most com
fortable and pxpulai l ii.-ii; llou-e,
bill the seveiely t.n!nii: , f hin II
or of madras h a'so snir
In hats the natn.w I .! . .T unv.n
rough sii ilor and vari'" i i- t the
derby seem to have 1--i i la . u-,. m-
COMle llelllg e,s nten -i !1 M.U Mul tll.'lll
in other H'li-oiis. 1 lie s'.ia il-rhifs,
light or dark, am oomia'atnc lv n. w
and have been takin up enthusiastically
m hngland. Hie hiighsh uiM'.eN ranging
all the way fiorn a derby ol iianmv bum,
cloely tolled ur siiaiclit. to a deiby
crown sailor bap, v.lmsi wide brim
may mil eSy -lightly or not at nil. Th
are, too. cr.nibiii.:i.irs ol black 'ilk I ea
crown and bluet, Mian bum numn
(luting hats ol all kinds am inthei
more intoie.-ttiig than ii-ual tin- sea-cn
To le sum, them is little that is al -o.
lutely new in shape, but new material
and ii.mbinaiioiis i.f maiorl.il and urn
tricks of tiiinmiug nr" it- evidence. The
epnngo winch is mi prominent as hock
material and trimnnni; ha, I ten Usui lot
outing hats loo, and U blocked into
all the small, close fining roll brim sham's.
The wide wale piqiu1 und cotton corduioy
are treated In the mi hip way nnd tho
regulation roiduroy too i used, par
tiiMiIarly in the soft light blown.
Thin there am combitinli'iiih of stiaw
and cpongc, straw nnd linen, straw and
white felt. SometiincH both tho Miaw
and the other material anv. while, home,
times a hemp braid of gay hue turns
a soft white felt and laces lis bilm. Pana
mas am na opulur as ever and thorn am
other, cheaper, Mipi straws blocked
in the roll biim Panama shapes,
Hallors with crowtm and brims, in vary
ing degrees rd height and width a'ni
ahown in rough straws and in boil felt. Tus-
RIDING CLOTHLS FOR CROSS AND SIDE SADDLES.
sor, taffeta, quaint flowered silk", linens
and tretonnej am all used for th; stitched '
luting hits and for stiller shape in com
i binatiuii with siraw.
clever little tennis hats of the lound
I clns.. Mown and nnrow lolled and rim
tye ale made in soft white felt or other
s"ft materiil and liae two tennis rackets,
mule fioii) flti" dark bluo silk braid or
c'ird. cro-sed on the fiont of th" crowii
, l"i- the f.idy trimming. The firm that
, shows the.,, shows also an odd but un
ifvmmoiily clue outing hat of whil pjti-
am.i around whos? crown are posed,
flat on tho straw like Japinc.se silhouettes,
small swallows in black and dark purple.
At first dance these anniieH Kilhimnttes
seem not to be in ntlief at all, but a closer
examination mveala the fact thai they
ai i'oimcd of tiuv feathers inwl e.ieli l.irH
is covciu.l with tulle of exactly the color
of the 'e 1 1 hom holding the latter in pl ice,
'Ihis description is inadeiiate, lim the
effect is to illy us admirable as it is novel.
Ot motor li.it s much li is lieen written in
theso columns. There are innumerable
fetching little boniieis and hats for motor
puiposei, all soil, clinging closely to the
heid, cully veiled.
Hoi weather has brought out light
weight motor coats and dust cnitsgaloro,
and iiinong t)n novelties is a dust coat of
Italian sill; such as is Usually associated
with underwji.,. Tlii-t HiHy woven,
i'tr,ioidiuarily supple, light silk, in col
ore ranging I'mm tho h.'jht grays and bis
cuilH to laiipo tones, dark blues and
prune shades, is mado up in the simplest
and hovertvt of lines with a collar that cm
lie adjust !! high about tho throat or rolled
ihwn, nnd long sleeves that can bo
titrappcd clo-cly at tho wrist. Then-eight,
of such a iloak i almoin a negligible ipian
tliy; it oin In packed into an absurdly
small spaco, it is utterly iincrushable, and
dual cannot penotrute it, soil is no wonder
that the-, coats, though not cheap, have
sold readily for tr.nelling and motoring
The llnn motor eintn of this summer
arc at their lieM. exceedingly smart look
ing garment, ns lurefully cut and tailored
as th models in clot h and cpnto as shapely.
The soft heavy linens that do not crush
reidily are chesen and the best model
are built upon seveie lines with no trim
ming save stitching and buttons.
Occasionally a lining or facing of col i.
or of gayly flowered linen or en? ton is
used and shows In collar and ruffs, but
the untrimtiied models am really the best
looking and the sumo is true of coats
in soft, hiiivy tu.ssor. A linen ol supple
yet firm wetve in a rattier Itrge black
and white check makes a chic co.u when
cut on strictly tailored line., with loosely
lelted back, raglan sleeve, adjustable
stoim collar and no trimmings save
big buttons in white and blick pcirl.
Kpotige is another popular materiil
for the summer motor co.it and is goixl
in all the khaki, sand nnd mode shades
and even the deeper snuff and ginger
brown. A model mentioned in Tin-; Si'K
eariy in the seison when it tirst appealed,
in wool, has been ory successful in
enongo and terty ami is an extremely
knowing looking cent selling at a sur
prisingly low price.
It is perfectly straight, clinging, severe,
and buttons all tho way up the bide front,
even up through tho very high soft collar
which swathes the neck closely, but may
be turned down in soft revers faced
, witli self-color sitin. This simo model
is offered in wool ami in silk and is a bit
overpopular, but It certainly deserves
Mohair, which if never a veiy elegant
coat material does inako a practical and
'substantial dust wrap for hot weather
motoring, has been very cleverly used
by aonie of the designers, and particularly
in the soft grays with big white buttons
rimmed In gray there are some exceed
Ingly good looking m-hdr .modela. The
grays are, by fho way, very much liked
for motor coats: this season and there
am coats of gray models in everything
from homespuns, and tweeds to silk
( Certain watciproofed twilled silks sug-
gesiing wiupeoril mine very service
able tiretty dust coats and there ire good
things in taffeta and in surah.
Of tho wool coats littlo need b" said.
They are legion, fashioned lrom any and
all of the light weight woollns .suitable
for the purpose, tweeds, terry, serges,
Ac Wluie coats cannot perhaps be re-
garded as practical motor coats, but thev
play an important r6e in connection with
summer, sports anil big, loose, shorty
looking coats of white eponee, terry,
rough serge and other effective stuffs
am showii.aud worn; but the white polo
coat of laet year has passed.
Sweaters of the. knitted kind are being
hard pressed ,y the blazers and norfolks
and mackinaws, and perhaps for .that
f-'ason have taken on many new varia
tions, The hnglih sweater coat on severe
coat lines but knitted or woven to sjinu.
late knitting in solt Angora wool is con
sidered very modish for real service and
come- in attractive heather mixtutes
and In Hi" soli grays, browns and gicens.
Very light weight sweaters of very
line fle'ey Angora wool are shown and
silk knitted sweaters an well as wool
sweaters with collars, cuffs and pocket
bindings if knitted silk in contrasting
color are popular. The college and club'
color stripes used for the gay blazer coats
are echoed in knitted sweaters.
'1 he blazers are being done to death
and manv of them are too crude in color
ing to be becoming, but they do brighten
a summer outdoor scene, and worn with
white skirts and little stitched hats of the
stripe with rolled brim of white are gay
and jaunty for youthful wearers. Less
spectacular are the loose, comfortable
norfolks in soft wool. They are ample,
well supplied with pockets sometimes but
not necessarily and of bright soli 1 color.
red or green or .blue. White norfolks,
norfolks of white and black check or
stripe or fleck, of mixed tweeds, of cor
duroys or uny material suitable for sport
ing wear In n scparato coat are sanctioned
by tho fashion makers.
The plain nnd plaid mackinaws with
or without hoods belong in the Norfolk
class and have been worn by college
girls for several years, but have only this
season come into general use.x The col
lege girls too have popularized the
block rubber coat and sou'wester for
rainy weather wear, and while the coa
tume might not look well on Fifth ave
nue it lias much to recommend it for
sporting uses, making the wearer more
secure against heavy rain than any of the
dressier raincoats and more conventional
Aa for the hecomingnese of the garb,
any one who has crossed Smith College
campus on a rainy day will be ready
to testify that a regulation mannish
rubber coot and n sou'wester look amaz
ingly well on n young woman. The same
costume In oilskin instead of rubber is
a valuable thing for the girl who sails.
There is no distinctive yachting cos
tume nowadays, embroidered anchors
and oil that sort of thing being taboo
along with visored yachting caps; but
a certain sort of thing always looks par
ticularly well aboard a yacht, The bid
loose, warm coat, severely plain In fin
ish and made in rough, white wool or in
blue with some relieving touch of white,
is always good, and white serge suits or
frocks ore in order. The idea so much
liked this season of the blue coat with
white skirt works out well in yachting
costume, nnd linen frocks of a trim and
simple sort are always tucked into the
Apropos of white serge, a particularly
attractive model from a famous maker
has a plain skirt buttoning all the way
down the front and is worn with a very
simple blouse of soft, heavy, white peau
de crepe. The coat of white serge is
a sleeveless Norfolk, stitched around the
rather large armholes, made with large
collar and loosely belted.
For tennis wear any very simple linen
or serge or cotton frock will do, provided
the skirt and blouse allow perfect free
dom of movement. The accordion
plaited skirts, onoe more in fashion, are
pretty and comfortible for tennis if mad
in soft material, and the short, loose
sleeve, wide at bottom, which is seen
on many of the summer morning frocks
is just the thing for tennis. A wide
wale pique skirt and mannish shirt, a
white serge skirt and India silk shirt
or a plain white skirt and any very simple
tub blouse make a satisfactory costume
for either tennis or golf, provided no
ooat or sweater is needed.
ETIQUETTE IN NOTE PAPER.
To the average American woman of
twenty years ago note paper was a piece
of clean white paper used to write letters
on. When she found that her supply had
run out she went, as a rule, to the nearest
stationer' store, where nine time out of
ten she bought the very first box that was
shown her. In the large department
stores of the larger cities many a woman
bought paper simply because it had an
attractive bos, and was inexpensive.
The paper, of course, was seldom good.
There wero some manufacturers at that
time who made very fine paper, and who
turned out initialled and monogrammed
paper of the finest texture, but there were
not as many as there are now.
To-day, however, conditions are very
different . As a nation we ha ve been rush
ing ahead these past twenty years, and our
private lives have grown accordingly,
until now milady must have just this size
paper for this letter, another size for
that missive, a card for this note, and in
each case the envelope must match ex
actly, The reason for this is readily under
stood. It is really by tho little things of
life that, a person's character is deter-
mined, and bad taste in note paper speak
1 just as loudly as does a missing button
I or on untied shoe lace. By looking at the
sue, shade and color of one's paper one
can generally tell something of Its owner's
character There is the flashy, loud per-
I son, with the shade of pink or blue, the
careless person with the cheap paper on
which th ink blurs, or the dainty lady
with her highly glazed white paper, which
bears her monogram, and the businesslike
woman who uses a large heavy sheet.
There have always been "latest fash
ions" in note paper as in everything else,
but they are seldom heeded by the finest
ladies of our land. For her there are
three sizes of line textured white paper.
The smallest size should be an oblong
of about 3' , by 5 Inches. This is for the
little notes, such as those used for regrets,
congratulations or sympathy. This size
paer is often replaced, however, by the
correspondence card, that handy little
piece of pasteboard that has become so
much used during the past two or three
The second size should be a little larger,
5.6 Inches, and is used for social letters
and informal invitations, or for a letter
that does not require much length,
The third size is quite a bit larger (81,,
by n inches) and ttiat is used for the real
heart to heart talks that one has by way
of the mail bag. It is a big paper, with
lots of room for the gossip that tho wait
ing friend is so anxious to hear. A new
style of paper that has just been intro
duced is a double sheet 51,' by ti inches in
size. The novelty of this paper is that
it is not folded, but is enclosed in an
envelope of the same size,
The decoration of all these papers
should lie very simple. While it is not
incorrect to have a liorder, and a border
often lK)ks very pretty, there is nothing
so elegant or better form than the simple
embossed address or crest.
The envelops that go with these papers
are in exact proportion. The shape of
the flap of the envelope changes con
tinually, so much so that often it ia hard
to say just what shape is correct. At
present the pointed flap is in vogue.
Another fad that has come in recently is
the thin lining for the envelop, It i w
foreign idea and it has "caught on" in this
country. This lining is of the thinnest of
tissue paper and gray and blue are the
leading colors. It gives a smart appear
ance to the letter and it entirely conceals
tho writing. As for tho decoration of the
envelope, that is a matter of taste, though
the plain envelope is the beat form. If
one does use a monogram or a crest It
should be placed either on the flap or the
upper loft hand comer and should be very
A quarter of an inch border is suffi
ciently wide for mourning paper. It is
alisiird to measure one's grief by 'the
band of black upon ones stationery.
Mourning paper should not be used after
thr first yoar.
Personal paper bearing one's full house
address is a great help to one's friends if
one Uvea in town and un absolute neces
sity if ono is out of tho city. The coun
try house paper should bear the long dis
tance telephone number and the full
post office address. This will insure quick
reply. It is a proper thing for a hostess
to leave note papers of all afce in tho
guests' rooms. U ia also well to leave
some one and two cent stamps with the
Mrs. Gosiiip Lcmeke Tninis Out
Possibilities of n Vesrc(,.
SALADS, rilKKSE A N'T) !(;(;
Dishes Which Are Knitl to hn.
prove the Health mid t!n
Mrs. Hesine I.emcke, the cooking
teacher, is a strong advocate of a eu.
table diet for the summer, .She says it
will improve the health, lnoks ami com.
plexion and do much to drive away th,
blues. The dishes included in a eg.
tarian diet are quite an nourishing as rtiMt
dishes, she declares, and are daintier to
When you talk to women about Uw
no meat dinners, said Mrs. Lemckc,
"most -of them at once think of fish. Kuh
is a delicate and delightful food, but it
must be admitted that ite cooking call
for a certain amount of care and det.
terlty in 1U pr eparatlon. When It li
fried, rather than baked or broiled, great
care must be Rlxen to ventilation so that
odors may be avoided.
'But beyond fish there are many kindi
of food which may replace chops and
steaka and chickens. There is rice, for
Instance, which la not properly appre
ciated in this country, although the fa
mous curry chef Joe, who was at Sherry'i
for several seasons, did much to popu
"There are the various paste foods uy)
by the Italians which are far more In favor
with Americans than rice. The natives
of Italy are natural vegetarians, living
largely on green salads, bread, red wine
and various garden products.
'Fruit salads, made from fruits com
bined with lettuce or Romalne and served
with a French dressing, are finding great
approval with American diners. They
are refreshing, appetizing and of tonio
qualities and quite as satisfying as the
usual meat dishes at this summer seaaari,
when the palate demands a change.
'Bananas, which are among the most
nourishing of fruits, should have a place
in all fruit salads. Oranges and grape
fruit appear among the best salad fruit;
pears and apples combine delightfully
with celery. Every no meat dinner
ahould have a bountiful dish of fruit salad,
varied from day to day as to materials.
It should be kept in a cool refrigerator for
an hour or so before being served, as this
Improves It largely in flavor.
"One of the 400 or 500 dishes made from
eggs should appear at the no meat dinner.
In this country ws associate eggs with
breakfast, but the French cooks hai
taught us the delicious things that may
be prepared from eggs in combination
with vegetables and sauces which nvili
them pleasing to the eye and the palat-.
At the old Hoffman House they m.td a
combination of a tomato, peeled nl
scooped out and tilled with an egg, hake!
and served with a bearnaise sauce. Thi.
was called eggs Benedict and was f annus
with epicures. But eggs and omelu
offer an almost unlimited Held for varying
a bill of fare. You could serve eggs in a
different style every day of a year and ttiil
have several unused recipes.
"Cheese is another of the misunder
stood foods. Mae- people think cf
cheese as something that cornea after
dinner, but it makes the beat part of the
Italian dinner in its many comblnatior.i
with vegetables and macaroni,
"Then there is the cheese souffle; and the
cheese fondue cheese cooked together
with eggs and baked till golden tmivrn,
These aro among the dishes that should
be cultivated for the home table.
"Some Italian cooks can do wonderful
things with beans, cooking them 111 some
way that sends them to the dinner re
sembling ivory. The Italians use many
meat juices in the preparation of vege
tables; also wines and various herbs and
essences. Their cookery ,is very dis
tinctive and they are, of course, unsur
passed in the making of the various ate
that take the place of meat with them.
Lentils, artichokes and mushrooms they
seem to understand, and all of these ar
quite as good as meat hen properly
prepared and served.
"Egg plant is used by vegetarians cut
In the shape of chops and cutlets, breaded
and browned. In some or tho foreign
shops dried mushrooms maybe bought,
and they can lie cooked with great sucre
when they are properly seasoned Of
course they are not as tempting a fresh
mushrooms, but there is all the strength
of meat in them.
"Soups in great variety may he pre
pared from vegetables, but forthe summer
it seems as though soup might be appro
priately dispensed with as a first cours"
"Grape fruit and of course melon ranks
a good beginning for a dinner Small
clams are liked by most people and the
custom is crowinc for the service ef
hors d'eeuvres in place of soup Tbev
certainly form an attractive dbh nun u
is quite possible to get them uplat honi".
as nearly all of the small fish -anhn"
anchovies, Ac. can lie obtained nl t'ie
cooked food stores.
"Olives, carciofini, smoked salmon,
imported sausage are all to be had in li'"
ever quantity is desired. I'lenty of le:na
juice should bo used with them
salads for this course can all be pteparid
at home. Small, sweet red pepp.-i.-r.r
good mixed with celery and potato ilil'
"There are largo Chum dishes wii.i
divisionsmade speciully for horsd iruvris
and they are much more effective if pa"?-'1
in this way thun if separate riihe'
used. With a dinner at which the u'J.ii
roast or entree is not served these fno.
make a novelty and they do not m-t mi
"All these things help out when a !ln';,'
keeping woman decides to boycott 1 1
butcher, Men are the ones who, a
general dhing, object to meatle-s meal
Women and children are apt to prefer
puddings and pastries, fruit, ice crw:
c.'ikcs and salads.
"As an experiment it would be luuw-
could succeed in satisfying their familN
with the meatless dinners. They rouM
not do so by simply omitting meat ""
providing no substitutes. ,
"Lists should be made out for weekt
menus with cheeae, eggs, spaghetti, sal
ads, fruits, flab, Iced puddings and ii"';
souffles, strawberry shortcake, je w
with fruit, nuta grated and used in nw
and Bandwiches, all Hie unusual diH"
which through their novelty uiient "
an appeal." '
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