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12 THE 1 SUN, SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 10, 1912. iNbW J-AbHlUJNb 1HA1 AKhL, fc, 1 h5Y MAbb L.UM UMJtLb m WHILi; tlit stage Is supioscd to bo tilt) proper nnd accepted plnco for delusions nnd shams there lt nl least one tiling out It In modern plays that in very real id thnt ix the costumes the women nr. No longer can cotton masquerade croon as silk nnd plush us fur. No deed. Tho dresses nowadays must lie ' tho moot coolly material nnd not only ndo in the Intent fashion hut of tho ishlon of to-morrow. Every season tho public demand more nd more In tho wuy of elnbornte eos lmes. A largo percentage of women o to tho theatre iih much to nee tho hand omo dresses tho actresses wenr uh to on oy the piny Itself. And iih women are un .uestlonubly tlie mainstay of tho theatre he (shrewd managers study to please hem. Hence tho beautiful exhibition f gowns thnt oncli now production fiords. Dressmakers concede that It In tho stage nd not tlie society bnllroom that sots '10 fashions. Quito tho reverse in fact, .3 in tho fashionable drawing room or allroom you will find tlie women garbed more or lens accurate copies of state OWI1S. New fads nnd fashions in dresses, hate; JoVex, shoes anil coiffures nre all started n their giddy way from 'behind tho foot !ghs. It doexn't take long to get them ;olng eitlier. I,ot xomo favorite actress Tear something that ix both novel and ittractlve and there Ix no doubt about '.er parting something. The very next !ay, quite likely that night even, hun dreds of women plan to have just such a 'dunk of a dress" or another such an 'awfully sweet " hat. So Iho dressing of a play has cotno to be me of tho most important items in its production. It is a feature that -Mongers are giving more and more Ime and attention to all the while in a breathless struggle to outdo each other'. Especially is this true in 'omlc opera and musical plays generally .then tho period of tho story calls for nodern costumes. When it's a "costume day," as plays are called whoso period tates back to the wearing of fancy dress, t is possible to fake some with the gown. In fact it is not only HsslbIe but it is .irways done, nt least so far as tho chorus U concerned. With costumes of to-day, however, that is out of the question in .any first class production. Tlie days of cotton tights havo passed "rom Broadway theatres along with stock coenery. Naturally this dress question is another Tfnrrv nnH YrwnKe fnr t)in ntrwnrli- rtvnr- 'jurdened manager. It puts a few more i jray hilrs on his head and a few more t V rinkles in his face. It's tho additional lCMnse does that, not tho worry. Tho- 1'rical managers are immuno to worry, v, they are no more halter broken to P'ra expense than any other business . is a big expense, too: much bicgttr the average theatregoer 1ms any . of. In any ono of tho big Ilroadway irUcal productions of to-day tho cos vMok cost much'more than tho scenorv. Iff F & T 1 V "SI T 1 " Tlae. Co tint Lu.x.e and scenery can't be faked any moro either. Formerly in a production of this nat ure tho uctress who had tho leading part drossod the character pretty much as sho pleased. 8ho ordered her dress maker to make an uftornoon or evening gown oh tho scene demanded and that's all there was to it. As to tho chorus, that was a compara tively simple matter. Tho wardrobe I Iv 7? 4 1 r 'I 15 i- . M - mboTu.T'. woman at the theatre, with tho sewing girls sho hired, made them in a bunch after a description furnished her by tho stage manager. She made them in two bIkos, big and little, and then made a sort of pretence of fitting thorn to tho individual wearors. But sho know bettor than to fit them too accurately all tho same, for chorus girls are changed every now and then and it was considered a foolish waste of money to get a now Mb.' $3 i4 ..i ff ' - Vi r LKfi-T 4!f 13: fa t. t - 9 5 'ff "ft in t"he costume just because you had a chorus girl. Those wero tho good old, cheap days, when chorus costumes were m. to do duty In half a dozen dlfTen iit ductlons tnaylie. When also, more n likely, the material they were mud. didn't cost more than 25 cents n y. and gaudy coloring was considered' i chief requisite. Now, thank you, each chorus cost tin, is an individual work of art. Made i Iho wardrobe woman? Well, hardi They nro made by tho most fnshioinil i. dressmakers out of tho most oxm.ii-i materials. Each costumo is the re.u of a carefully thought out design mini' by an exert artist, who not only keei in mind tho figure nnd complexion of tj girl who is to wenr It, but alxo has i design It to bo in harmony with the gen oral color scheme of tho scenery and th other costumes as well. Ho makes a sketch of each girl fir-i and thru begins working with his lin and his colors. Tho drawing is carried out to tho mlnutast detail, Including hats, parasols, gloves, stockings an. I shoes. When theso colored designs are finished tho dressmaker, the milliner and tho bootmaker all got busy to make their part to fit tho girl whoso name the sketch bears. There is no slapdash work about try ing on and fitting either. Tho girls have to enduro fitting after fitting until tit garment 1 ns near perfect as can he And then if it doesn't suit tho critical eye of tho stngo manager tho cqstume is thrown out nnd another made. Quite likely a start is made from tho very be ginning and n now design prepared. As to the dresses for tho leading ac tresses, tho work is naturally much more painstaking. Practically no expense is spared to make tho dresses a sensa tion. That's what they aro all aiming for, costumo sensation. Snd ns it may seem to the devotees of high art nnd tho purity of tho drama it is n fact never theless that more thnn ono musical piny has been pushed into a success by its costumes. Clothes make the play more than they do tho man, and there is no place in tho world where fine feathers show off so well as on the stage. For that matter there is no. place where they aro shown off so much. It's no very unusual thing for tho prima donna in u musical play to havo half n dozen costumes made before one is produced that is considered satisfactory. The prices that managers pay for some of these costumes would make even a wealthy society belle givo a little gasp. They must be original and that costs a lot. Thov must bo mml liv n r,,ut,inn- uble dressmaker and that costs a lot, and thov must bo verv rarofuiit- mn.t and that also costs a lot. As to chorus costumps If. Is nnt nil unusual to pay a hundred dollars apiec for them. Wliile hats. Darasols. nhrwia gloves and silk stockings are of tho verv best. Naturally clothes ffet verv linrl on the stage, und of course the girls who wear mem do not take the same enro of them that they would if the dresses were their own. Where tho mnterinl iu ., . OVJAUC delicate goods, like chiffon, they are very euuy uumagea. is generally tho duty of the assistant staira mnunr ., ... . . I W I? T. that the girls do not abuse their costume-, um no manor now much he may watch and fine and no matter how much the wardrobo woman may repair and clean the chorus costumes are soon bound to go 10 pieces and look shabby. Then they must be replaced, and tho whole expense incurred again. ftlanagers estimate that If they get three months wcir nut nf tho MU viKMUiiien of a musical play they are doing well. That applies to Broadway. The cos tumes can then I) turned over to a num- oer two company and sent on the road It Was GeOriTO EJlvnrrlaa t I i .. n- m m m h 1 ' t; 1 who set the fashion of making the stage costume tho real thing in the way of stvle and cost. Ho costumed his productions uuuuuiuuy ana m bucJj good taste that a now "Edwardos show" was looked Uk.ii us a millinery event and tho Illustrated papers iravo iincrex in nini,r..u i .i.. scriptions of the now gowns. In this respeci Mr. hrtwardes still sets the pace, not only for Europe but America us well It did not take tho New York manuger long to follow suit when ho saw how popu iir Mr. Edwardes's millinery displays had become, so that in the last few years there has lioen a groat udvnnco in tho attention given to stage costuming here. In the illustrations on this page can bo seen some of tho elaborate costumes and new styles worn in "The Count of Luxem bourg." Tho dress worn in tho staircase waltz scene is considered by many to bo tho handsomest ever worn in a modern play in New York. The valuo of costuming in connection with the success of a play recalls tho re mark that an Italian shoemaker mndo to lieginald de Koven Bhortly liefoio tho production or one of Mr. do Koven'e oeni8. The Italian made a specialty of theatrical shoes and had the contract to furnish tho slippers for the forthcom ing opera. Meeting Mr. do Koven in tho lobby of the theatre after a rehearsal ho said: "Ah Mr. Kovenl I tinks wiz my slip pers an' your mooslo wo makes tin'grand h ciess!"