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C light. 1313. Ly the t-un l'rintlng and
MONTMARTRE, WHERE s OMIJ I'ariMiins anil most Ameri cans luk ahkanct- at Munt martre. The hill halluwrd by the blood of St. Denis lias man- n I t'i collfct a varied and unsavory t ' itntlon durinc thu past thousand 5 rs. What between apaches and ; . nrttstH anil chorus Kirls with hluh i and tlKht skirts that aren't sewed a the way to the bottom, and dance ' - that "speak Ktmllsh" and cabarets tc your lite isn't supposed to ! w nnythlnK If you show a twenty '. piece carele.-sly. the once sacred H iif the Martyrs decidedly nets itself t. I about. Vet Montmartre'K Kenlus i- i . r- ly the very human spirit of fun, M - i.i'irtrc merely enjoys Itself. I i', ..in methods of enjoyment are r. - tppoM-U to be strictly proper, there I- .stoiy In n nutshell. A certain A' an llvinii In IMrls loves to tell tl.' ' . !ry of his ilrst visit to the Mou I: tint on nrcount of what he The Painted Lady was surely i' i' to keep his orlRlnul vlow "I i' still fresh, ual entertainment removed nil f Impropriety, for it heuun lilly improved burlesque show i with a prize IlKht between u f the saddest Kirls who ever . out from under dusty blucU rtiier that nlKht tho Moulin d belnK wicked and became i ill about the Moulin House t Hue to Paris they all do. Ah ii Hit nenred the capital and I Tower and the Kreat J'arls ivned with the white temple of it Coeur, like an Alpine abbey i t V. 0 ( pi I I I" V II t I tl 1'ublUhlnB Association. Under the Thin Trees of the Place du Tcrtre, on the Summit of Montmartrc, He Comes to Sip I lis Wine and Talk and Sing Things Most Tour ists Do Not See When They Go in Search of the Sights In the clouds, loomed out of the mUt. his well informed lellow travellers told him that under the church was Mont martre, the amusement centre of Tans, and on Montmurtre stood the Moulin Itoime. The American hail not come to Paris just to see the Moulin Kotme. hut from that moment It was emphasized In his mind. That nlfiht after dinner he determined to see tile Moulin House. He took live different buses to net to the Place dc l'Opera, where he wot the Montmurtre bus and was at last on his way north ward. He did not doubt for a moment that he would be set down In a sort of Midway Pialsance with tho Moulin going to the Moulin Rouge. k.iiilm. loomlnc uu in front of htm. Hut tin. litis went on and on. up and up, throimh streets iulet and homelike and none too Imht. Tim llL-hts of Place Cllchy held possi bilities, then faded, antl homelike Paris cume iiKaln. The bus beKan to descend the hill and ut last It enst tne Ameri can and tho rest or the passengers out Into a barren highway with no IlKhts but the illnuy Klw of a Kasllt iafc. Nor was there any mill In slnht, red or otherwise. The American wandered up a few unpromising sUlo streets and then came back crestfallen to tho bus THE TI IE HORSE TRADE DIAMOND CUT DIAMOND REAL PARISIAN AMUSES HIMSELF station. He mounted one headed back i nearly two thousand years, and for al to I'.nls. The conductor had to be ap- j most too has been a famous play pealed to. Moulin ltotiKe? i h, yrs, he : ground, .lust to-day the workmen are would tell the visitor when they got j hus up there, converting Into dust and then-, li.irk and hack they went. Tho ' buildiiiK slone the piclureMiue old yel hulits of Place t'llchy loomed, The bus lowed luiildltii: which trailition says was stopp. d tinil the conductor entered to 1 tap the American on the shoulder. 'The Moulin Rouko is Just down tin re to the left," he sa.d In an un necessarily hlBh tone of voice. The American blushed and Klanced around. A dozen pairs of serious French eyes were upon him, but no one seemed to smile, or to be shocked. H de scended and In a moment was on the Houlevaid Cllchy and a step had taken him to Its most famous dance hall. Then came disillusion. r memory like that is worth far mor than dozens of visits to the Moulin ItotiKC. It recalls tho Joys of anticipa tion, which once none leave the reality sadly battered. Kor the lluhts and Kayetjr of the Montmartrc of the tourists are nut all they are icputed to be. Vet for all that. Montmartrc remain! the amusement centre of Pnris. The bright lights of tlte outer boulevard! have been transferred to print otten enough, but the real Paris amusement places, whein the foreigner Is almost never seen, ate far more typical of Montmartrc and its varied history. And there Is variety in them, too. Tlte two dance halls that draw th Americans are well enough known but the color is provided by simple young Frenchmen who obtain free entrance tickets at their cheap restaurants in th quieter streets. The calWets of Montmartrc are fa mous but hardly exhilarating to the tourists or foreigner who has forgotten how wicked they am supposed to lie, ("Jet away from the boulevards ami up on the side of the hill if you would see real Paris at play. Don't mind the stories of the Apaches they're merely tough, not tit all wicked; they may kill you, but they won't shock you. You have only half of a short block to go to be out of the ugly atmosphere of thu outer boulevards. I'.ehind (he famous theatres of Montmartre are other thea tres, dozens of them, little ptaces where beginners get their tryotlts. where the prices are very low and the successes of tho grand boulevards down town are played to appreciative audiences, at a quarter the price, Hut do not Mop loo long to look nt the Theatre Montmartre, or any of its prototypes on the little streets lenuinK up off the Houlevard Cllchy. Up above 1h a yet truer Montmartre, in the full moonlight, or in the green afternoons of summer. Up there the students sing In their gardens. Up there people lovo and live and ploy all the livelong day and night, for there Is nothing sordid there, only u llttlo carelessness of the morrow and what It may hold. Montmartre Is far younger than Paris, but It Is fur truer to the old tra ditions. It has been a holy spot for SUN, SUNDAY, JUNE 1, once the home of (labrielle il l.strees, favorite of Kim; Henry IV. Henry hiniM-lf had a good deal to do with up selling the religious solemnity of Mont martre when he set up his court on Its slopes. I.-i Helle Ciabrlelle had a house and a lovely garden, and there the Ilrst really gay affairs In the social history of the hill wete held. Hut (labrlePe died, and after a hun dred years or so, her house and Its slop He hud his Sunday flowers w mrs 1913. From painting by A. B. ing garden became the property of simpler people, who turned It, in later years, into an amusement park. Pretty bowers held rustic tables and tho acres of soft grass left room for games, so the traditions of royalty were carried on by the bourgeois, ami the youth of Paris made pilgrimages there summer after bummer for generation upon generation. Last year they closed tho place and this spring Its destruction began. Tow ering apartment houses will doubtless rise upon It, ns they have all about, and will shade the picturesque Hut; des Sanies with untoward shadows, and shame Into destruction, no doubt, the buttressed walls of Hue Oortot. This spot is the very heart of all that Is left of tho Old Montmartre, playground of the true Parisian "gosse," or small hoy in smock and cap, home of quiet ar tists (and poor ones), playground, too. for cooing pigeons and hundreds of well even if he owned only 100 sous. Frost. Montmartre is the real habitat of the Paris "gosse." fed, sympathetic doss, retreat of simple old country folk who "never go to Paris." The destruction that heretofore has encroached only on the edges of the region has now Invaded the heart. Those buttressed walls of Hue Cor tot support another garden, almost ns lar as that of l.a Hello Oabrlelle, where simple folk still go to sit in the open and gossip and drink on summer afternoons. On this resort, the Cafe of the Drinking Frank, has descended the traditions of the park tie La Uelle dab rlelle. Just around another corner Is the Place tin Tertrc, where tho boys and tho girls and the dogs and the cats play all day long undisturbed by the rum bling of carts or taxicabs, a thousand miles away from Paris and tho width of thu world distant from the Moulin Houge. On .Sundays the half dozen slmplo cafes that line the sides or thu llttlo qiiare set up in tho park rows of green painted wooden tables, with hack less green benches beside them, antl there the bourgeois or the students from the real Latin quarter go to drink their soft wine and talk und sometimes sing, In an Arcadia that Is almost Inconceiv able. Unprepossessing you will first de clare the scene, but there Is a charm about tho straight lined houses and the straight lined trees and the straight lined cobblestone roadways that can never be forgotten. Over there a black cat sits calmly on the curb eyluif In that friendly fashion 13 French cats have a blfr mussy dog with a soiled white ribbon around his neck who sits two feet away. On the other corner Is a group of three youns men In brown suits and light brown caps seated at a walnut I able outside a cafe whoso walls are dark brown, drinking the yellow wine of Touralne and eating Paris bread, with Its golden crusts a color symphony unbelievably harmoni ous. One of those healthy reliable looking Parl3 policemen stands In his cape, feet apart, watching a coatless waiter In his Inevitable apron setting up those tables and benches for the afternoon merry makers. Kehlnd him two men stand talking. One of them says; "I haven't any money, not more than one piece of 100 sous to my name." And atop the black cloth bundle between his feet Is a tiny French rose treo with half a dozen tiny pink blossoms on it that he had to have, money or no money, on a Sunday morning. Few foreigners Intrude on this ely slum. Up In the open windows around the place are old people a man sitting against u background of a dark Interior, reading; a becapped old woman leaning out of a balcony window looking down on the scene. The foreigners feel the dig nity of quiet scrutiny upon them; they note a courteous amusetnent that they find It strange, a pride in the serenity of It. You can find all this, tint essence of the old Purls, nowhere as under the thin trees of the Place du Tertre on the summit of Montmartre.