The sun. [volume], December 28, 1913, SEVENTH SECTION, Page 9, Image 73

About The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916

Image provided by: The New York Public Library, Astor, Lenox and Tilden Foundation

                
THE SUN, SUNDAY, DECEMBER 28, 1913.
SUN S FASHION EXPERT DISCUSSES
1913
INDIVIDUALITY IN WOMEN'S DRESS
-eon Baskt Revolution
in Art Dress and House
Decorations Startling
Color Schemes Show
What Woman Can Do
for Herself in the Way
of a Frame
ity i.triu: tiii:iM k.
E Kit since llio npcnlliK of the
Salon d'Aiitomuc the arllHtic
circles of 1'iirla Iihvo been In
a stall' uf feverish excitement.
Utrie have bi'i'ii endless discussions on
tin subject ot the new nrl,. Confer
nurs 'imve boon given and mure than
out- course of artistic lectures.
Wo have been told that the color
n Hemes of Leon Unkst live thi' only
nni-u possible for cultured Individuals.
Within the came hour vtu havu been
Mid that the Hallet Itusse wave, which
li.ii swept across l'arls, has destroyed
teal beauty and opened the way for
tvpoiicnts of tneiely eccentric claptrap.
Paris, for once, lias been bewildered.
Sho dias been asking herself, "In thin
ri genuine revolution In tjio world of
urt? Or In It only a passing fad, which
Mill quickly Moat away, leaving little
'rare behind?-'
Of course It Is not the llr.st time that
fails has been u.ia by the ccecn
ttleltlcs of tiHramodcrnlsls In the ait
world, I'or years luck, on and off, there
.iavo appeared dating spirit who have
irfused to Join hands with persons of
normal, or what is called normal, Idea!"
sml Ideals. There have always lieen
those who have stood aside with In
tention. Hut the present revolution
nnd personally 1 regard the movement
:ii tnat light Is a much more serious
affair.
It Is not only Insistent mid well
oiganlzcd; it Is also a movement which
has arrived nt the right moment. 1'eople
have been prepared for It. Karly last
spring I had occasion to (.peak ut some
length of the lulltience which the
liusslan painter and designer l.eon
Itakft was having upon the world of
at I In l'arls as well as in other great
apitnls. And It was not only Hakst
individually: It was aim his work in the
i:tislan It.illet and the unexpected color
(hemes which t.ut wonderful ballet
lias brought into existence.
No one now ventures to sneer at the
futurists, or even nt the cubists, for
Although Hakst is neither a futurist
nor a cubist his peculiar art Is closely
allied to ttiese schools. One thing Is
q alto certain, he L a master where
s'rontr colors are concerned, lie under
..t inds better than any other living
man how to handle these colors, how
i i combine them, how to Mint; together
e most unexpected tints. Above all
he iindert.tnd how to i j with tiendlsh
.-kill broad splashes of black and dead
white.
In s'lort, he Is the man who ha?
rm il tin. wot Id of ni l upsld" down
d that hi Influence Is no mere pass-
affair is gradually becoming real-
'J, at Iciirt In Paris. At the present
Salon d'Automne we find proofs of a
-cmilne, pi-rmaneul volution on all
f.iUo. Wo are at the 1-oginnlng of a
new era where house decorations and
mural arts are concerned. This Is an
'nterestinir fact.
My readers do not need to lie re
minded again that I am a fervent ad
vocate of Individuality, especially In
women. This Is a gospel which 1 preach
n season' and out. 1 do so because I
beiieve that Individuality of thought,
word and action Is the most Important
affair In the world. Without Individ
uality we are worse than sheep, for even
he most conventional nmong us have
ome instinct that teaches the fact that
..aracUT and temperament differ, as do
features. As an individualist I take
special pleasure, In the Leon Uakst revo
lution, for the new color schemes are
so strange, often so unrestful, that they
must be treated Individually, otherwise
taej become merely ridiculous. That Is
" to say, they must be studied nnd In
i loae connection with the individual
t onnected with them.
Though many of the specimen suites
1 ' rooms exhibited at the Salon d'Au
' mine are startling and unrestful to un
evat-gerated point, they are almost all
.nstrurtlvo: there Is hardly one which
fails to show what an intelligent woman
f even ordinary means might do for
herself In the way of a frame, There
are sombre, majestic, reception rooms
i which sultry reds, blues -and Kreens
s and out from dead white backgrounds,
where Riibtle touches of dull copper aro
. ipplied by embroidered cushions and
leie strong lights are shaded behind
irved plaques of semi-transparent
.via.
one could see at a glance how mag-
i tleent, superb, a beautiful woman of
"ad white skin nnd red gold hair might
. k In such a salon. Her trailing robe
of glistening Jet would give a splendid
"Tect as she stood against the dead
white wall with Its deep Ktrusran frieze.
And close by this mysterious salon
' iere was a sun kissed hall, decked out
a white and vermilion paints and
Hom ed with black and white tiles. Wlth
f it a glance ut a catalogue one instlnc
' vely thought of midsummer lu the
niiitry, of a blazing aim and of u vast
a lie sea.
I went around the salon for the first
om with an Intimate friend of Ledn
Kikst, arid we amused ourselves by
mining the Individuality of ench deco
, ' ited room without looking at our cnta
giie. When we came to the vermilion
ii id white hall my companion said,
v. hoiit a moment's hesitation, "A villa
n llpnneqiieville Hill In August." And
h was nearly right, for the red and
wtute hall whs part of a color BCheme
c .ited for Mine, Paquln's new seaside
: idtfiKe, at Trouvllle.
1 might continue this subject at
ugth, hut spat'o forbids, I do not,
however, opologlzo for Introducing it
l"to a dress urtlcle, for a serious tlmr.Ee
the world of decoratlvo art racans
Nous changes In the world of dress,
n I I repeat wo are on the evo of a
si'IlUlllii revolution.
' inly a day or two ago the news was
it corded that the ono and only NUInsky
1 us the Intention of separating himself
f' mi the Ituanlati liallct and of organ
Mtg ii n eclectic ballet of his own. In
'is following of NUInsky wu have such
"'n as Claude IJebusy, Igor Htravvln-
' y, and even. In a sense, Aitgiisto
' lln, for Kodln has written an appre
ciative preface to the book which is Just
e milt to be published by I'aul Irlbe on
the siiIjIkU uf NUIn-ky's art. All the
V
A quaint evening headdress
"La Belle Ferronniere." The hair is
an artistic plaque in enamel falls
diamonds.
Kreat artists of the present day seem to
be gradually Joining hands. And these
clasped palms presagn a revolution. Wo
shnll find distinct traces of the chatiKed
order of thought when the summer sea
son of Paris opens. We shall certainly
find changes In the picture exhibitions
of next year, lu the really up to date
theatres and, above nil, in the world of
dress.
I cannot leave the subject of Russian
art without adding a few wolds on tho
subject of a recent Interview given by
Leon Uakst to uu Kngllsh newspaper
on the subject of "Dress and the Kn
Itflh Woman." It ,was a very notable
Interview because in it the famous
painter laid great stress on the neces
sity of studying and understanding In
dividual typos.
He is uf opinion, for example, that a
l'arls gown in Its original outline Is
rarely suitable for an Kngllsh woman:
and he says that tills rule applies In a
far greater degre? to a l'arls lint, Tho
English woman as ho sees her Is a
stately creature who ought to dress In
tho street In well cut tnllored suits and
who ought almost always to wenr a
large hut. lie points nut the physical
difference between English anil French
women, nnd of course goes on to Indi
cate radical differences In character and
temperament.
lie added, and with good reason, that
Amorlcan women are far more adapta
ble than their sisters in .England, and
that for this reason, and others also, they
wear Paris gowns and hats with ex
quisite grace. It was a very Interesting
Interview nnd more than a little in
structive. This winter, on subscription nights nt
the opera antl at private receptions, I
havo noticed a great change In the fash
ion of Jewels. Nowadays no woman of
really cultivated taste dreams of wear
ing ordinary ornaments. Tho day of
stereotyped tiaras and necklaces Is
over, and hero wo again find ourselves
confronted by tho spirit of Individuality.
Every woman of fashion now calls for
something that has been specially de
Signed for her. To meet these demands
tho most precious family Jewels have
been broken up and reset and the craze
of tho moment Is for ornaments copied
exactly from Jewels worn by famous
beauties of 'olcb'ii days. The only thing
mi Ml H MaWI I M 0w V&WVIWIHWHilIB II
TWO NEW HEADDRESSES.
copied from Leonardo da Vinci's A theatre headdress in black
dressed high on the head and then of diamonds,
on the forehead from a chain of
utilch never chanxes its form Is the
stilng uf pearls, long or short. Indeed,
pearl necklaces are moro fashlonnble at
tin present moment than they have
ever been.
Yesterday afternoon I spent an hour
In the private atelier of one of the most
famous art Jewellers in Paris and he
showed me some really exquisite orna
ments of the latest designs. Some of the
most attractive of these ornaments were
composed of cut crystals and sapphires.
Sapphires are the favorite stones of the
hour they are even more popular than
diamonds, A superb pendant, designed
for a Ittisslan grand duchess, was com
posed of a single sapphire of great size
rimmed with small diamonds and hang
Famous Hotel Dishes of
NKW OHK probably lias more
hotels in proportion to Its size
thah any other city in the
world, but none of thorn pos
sesses tho fame for certain marvels of
the cuisine, that was attached to some
of the hotels of the past
Those who remember the old U runs
wick, at Fifth avenue and Twenty-sixth
street, will recall (he dignity and solid
quality of tho house, the famous wine
cellar. The game ani the winea of the
old, Urunswick are still spoken of to-day
in many of the clubs where tho oldsters
now gather
A cheese famous at tho Ilninswlok was
mixed by tho head waiter from Roquefort
cheese, butter, Worcestershire sauce and
a glu of port wine a famous old brand.
Paprika was added and tho whole mixed
to a paste nnd thickened with cracker
crumbs. Tho choose was shaped in little
torpedo shaped mounds nnd sorvod on
fresh green leaves, It wo dollolous, nnd
although It Bounds simple, lacking that
wonderful port wine, the resulta do not
equal Phillpo's famous tidbit.
Another after dinner dainty was made
by mixing a Oervais cheese with two
spoonfuls of cream and a glass of Bar le
duo jelly. This wan served on hot
toasted crackers. Nouchatol, butter and
jam are u mom economical substitute.
Tim I'ifth Avenue Hotel was celebrated
ing on a chain of unset brilliants which
looked like a long siring of living lire.
Another ornament, designed for the
same personage, was a pendant in Per
sian design which was. encrusted with
crystals and which had an enormous
emerald In tho centre, raised in such 11
way that It seemed to stand alone. Still
another lovely ornament, which had been
ordered by the Duchess of Westminster,
took the form of a broad clisp for the
back of the hair, composed of aquama
rines and rose diamonds set in platinum,
The design was arranged In curves and
tho clasp stood out n little from tho head
in the fashion demanded by the latest
style of hair dressing.
I havr Indicated one of tho newest
for its roast beef, and its boiled corned
lieef was equally in favor. There was
hardly any one of prominence in the
political world who did not at one time
or another stop thorn, The old head
waiter grew" rich from his tips on the
stock market received from patrons
whom he looked after The secret of
the wonderful roast beef probably lay in
the cooking.
There was an old fashioned spit upon
which it was slowly barbecued each day,
and eaoh day also the corned beef and
cabbage and potatoes, noted throughout
the country, were prepared by an aged
Irish woman who came for that ono
purpose every morning. The late Thomas
C. Piatt, who made it his headquarters,
always boomed the good roast beef, but
partook of it sparingly, as he did of all
foods.
At tlie Hoffman House under tho man
agement of William Caddigan such deli
cacies as Southern breads and waffle
made by a Virginia cook were disposed
of daily in great quantities. The Hoffman
chef also made a seolalty of many for
eign dishes. Among these was the Rus
sian soup Bortseh a la liusse.
It was made in this wuy; Take a good
stock and nearly fill the saucepan, Blanch
a piece of brlskot of beef and put this in
the stock with a young duok that haa
been roasted very rare. When all ia
tulle bordered with single rows
I. air oi u.a m ' ii t s un uii' : ui' ln.nl"
sketched this week. Thi- Is .1 ouaint
forehead ornament copb-d sartly from
one worn by Leonardo da Vinci's "I'.cii"
Ferronlero." It was compiwd of a t' in
string of diamonds mid u plmpic of doi-p
blue enamel i limned In the same prvlnii
stones. This ornament 1.1IN dlrerll.v on
the forehead and Is full of artistic gtnie
and distinction,
The second head shows .1 lo w lli'Mlle
headdress in blink tolie lioiilel.d with
diamond or .niuamai nos. well
known Parisian beauty appeal ed ut a
lecent premiere lu a headdress of tins
order bordered with tun opals, and all
her friends warned Iter imalnsl lu r dar
ing disregard of superstition.
Other Days
cooked slice tlie duck and cut tlie slice
in little bits, cutting tlie lean of the heel
in the same way I'as the soup through
a strainer and add some ,ltilieiine made
with carrots, cabbage ami oilier vege
tables. Then put in the cut up duck anil
beef, also some juice of beet to give the
soup color Serve with cream anil tresli
ground epier
A potago named m honor" of tlie I'letich
actress was consomme Satah Kernhardt
il wus made from n good poultry stock,
and when this boiled tapioca was put
in the pot This was cookul for about
an hour, 'then an infusion of tart agon,
chevril, coriander and a pinch of cayenne
was added, w ith one or two iiiiticod mush
rooms and two shallots. Some sherry
was added and the whole cooked for ten
minutes, then strained and garnished in
foreign style with marrow rounds, grated
bread crumbs and quenelles of crayllsh
Tho Everett House gained fame among;
eplcuros under tho management of Will
iam Hates, who now I . i the lleltnont.
Mussels were cooked after a metlicd
omewliat similar In the stylo of oyst.'rs
a la HourgoRlie, and simvimI In the shells
redolent with lomon, parsley, onion,
celery and spices, Soft clam weto
baked in thn shells in the maimer that
afterward came to l known as casino
style, with bacon and chopped parsley
The Brevoort is still in existence It Is
C. C. SHAYNE & CO.
Importers and Manufacturers of
STRICTLY RELIABLE FURS
Announce Their Annual
Discount Sale
. Affording an opportunity
to buy Fine Furs at a great saving.
MODEL GARMENTS OF
Chinchilla, Ermine, Mole, Mink,
Caradul, etc 33' off
Russian and Hudson Bay Sables
at special prices.
COATS
Seal, Persian Lamb, Dyed Muskrat,
Caracul, Mink, Mole 15 off
STOLES AND MUFFS
Mole, Mink, Raccoon, Beaver, Bear,
Wolf, Caracul, Fitch, Fox 20r; off
Lynx, Marten, Persian Lamb, Musk
rat, Skunk, Chinchilla, Ermine 15cr off
All Auto Furs 20 off
126 West 42d St.
NEW YORK CITY
now I'li iiMclerisliciilly I'n iii h It makes
.1 secialty of its hot s il nuvio I's villi-'
oils pioparaliotis of t'SK. sor"d in il -
lis of style mi toa.-t with lloll.iiid.u-i'
and Henmi-o sauce, me very popular
Due o ihew mini.' with an aiti'l. 'k.-,
bottom placo'loti hot toast. n bit of broiled
ham mid a licli sauce poured over Tiuf
lles and u-p.-iragiiH tips uvo the ir.-ii tii-li
Another ipular h-h is on that etiK- (
inated eirs ago with the chef of ilietiilsey
I lull-), since elo-ed Several Until ale j
clou mil and boiled after lieim: rolled ill ii ,
ti ipk ill to prevent lire-iking. 'I hey lite Iheli ,
cooked nut I placet! una cold plate A ton nd '
i hem is arranged a garniture ol sliced
pickles, u.ets. lot toco, chopped ur-oyiiiiil
other bright looking vegetables A vinai-!
gtetto samv i- served with this cu-ply
appetizing dish I
lolin ( 'li.i ml Hrli ii- in Washington was;
on an equal plane with the hvt of the'
old time American hotel 'I he capital I
hiil luiliy citing place tiaturallv withj
it huge political 'tiulatioii mid it-
spending oap'ii'itx . .is v oil a the I mdne-s ,
(or elaboiale spread- winch war typical I
of the time neatly half a century ago
Ov -ter- were then the great supper dish, j
unite a popular as lob-tcr i now I'ried
anil stevv.Kl anil broiled and ro.iste I. they ,
weroobtiiinableat rhanibi'i lin's in a pei
lecttoiith.it made them famous tip' world
over 'I here were the choice I.yiinli.iven i
oysters to pick fioiu, ami the Southern
cooks, ut that Mine alwuvs colored. couM '
tin wonderful things with tin sea food,
just a they did w ith duck ami bird- ti om
the I hesapeiike region
Champagne w.i- the invariable a, .om- i
imminent to lhe oyster supper A l.ivor- j
He method nt the t'hamberlin place wu
afterward named after t lie old Long lle.n it ,
Hotel, then under the management ol
.lohnT Devine. i j
t)yters in Long lleach style ate rooked 1
ill n dialer. About a doen of the linger ,
ones i 'ap" I'odsor I.ynnhaveiis are put i
ill the pan w ith a spoonful of tresli butter, j
salt and ("ppor and a tableio.ailul ol !
chopped celery Cover end -inituer for 1
a lew minutes, then add a gla-s ol sh trv !
and l"t it cook lor a minute or two more
Serve on hot toast
'liipe with oyster wa another dish i
whii h was opular with the statesmen ot
other days Ii i Mill mad" a specialty ol
at tiiiuivol the New ork club, having tlie
. re utnt loti oi being a gr.itelul tunic lor
I an overworked stomach
i 'I lie tripe I washed, drained, salted.
' -cildcd. ut in strips and simmered lor an
I hour in clear soup stock with a stall, of
t t elerv added This can best be done the
I ll.l) pleeedltll', the service of the dl-ll- f J
, ii i- lor bieakf.ist or foi supper In t,i, (
I e lse it i i cheated in I iio i bill i tig dl-ll w Itii
t wo of three geneiou- pals ol good butler
,111111 a little silted Hour. Mil nil Well until
i the .-am e tliit keii smoothly This will
i take about half an hour Add a doen or
mote oysters, according to sive; simmer
thiee or lour minutes, season and sum
on i n.i-i
ABOUT POTATOES.
-j-s in. latest grower of ced poi.uo, -
I in the world i lleniy Schrocder,
who own a faun of I.Mi iu'ics
near Suhin, flay county, Minnesota, in
the valley of the Ited I liver of tlie .
Ninth, which furnishes ueiiily halt' of
the seed potatoc for the lug growing
dlstticts of the country. 'in I'.'ll
Schroeder cleaned up $ti,iiiiu on In
l,V acres, or ncnrl.v $1im an in ie
Mote than E.OAu.Min bllllels of seed
potatois are earl shipped out of '.':
lied llivcr '.illc, and flay coiinl.v is
the centre of the indtisti.v. So,l and
climatic condition combine to lu'itm
this uhoiil. Several hundred uieii liiiv,
made tontine. In raising seed potatoes
in that section. Some of these tn.g.in
ten or llfleeu .vears ngo with nothing
and to-day ale ruled nt several hnndp tl
thousand dollars.
Seul potatoes iroin thai reg'ou bring
fancy prices each e.ir-ull the way
from $1 to JJ.'.'.'i n bushel, mid the le!d
inns fioiu I nil to 2."o bushels an note
Most of the siock raised for seel m
the Tinted States come ftom Midi -gun,
Mliinosov'a. Malm- and Wisi oii.-in
The South 1 a large liu.vi-r, becmise
cl.iiiali' condition then- inleil'eto wl h
the keeping of the tubers
The Minnesota Kxperitnent Station'
n.i- one man who spends most of his
t me ill iionstrnting nnd experimenting
with potatoes. lie I A. IL Konhler.
lie ' the greatest experts in the wotld
tl l.ei l.ne. He lias developed several
lew varieties by cros pollenljiatlon. One
fit th tilings he is trying to do is to
develop a potato that will remain true
t" type instead ot levelling to the long,
ilnu and stringy tuber of the tlrst po
tatoes known
lu the inily da.vs of the potato In
dustty mowers had only one Idea in
mn d. at.d that w.i to produce potatoc
that could lie sold. ."owadi.vs the ad
vanced trowci raise potatoes that be
i.inse of then- superior mealiness brine
prices cciierallj far above the market
avcrag-. The wanner the climate the
mere prune the potato Is to revert to
tlie original t.vpe. Successive genera
tion planted ftoin the same seed grown
in the same legion develop a variety
utterly unlike the original and marked
by pointed seed ends that make for de
t I juration
The early potato Industry of the
mtry is lu, at-d in the valley of the
Itnl Ulver of the South, Alexandria, La.,
h, lug on,, of the lug centres of the In
dustry. It Is been use of the warm ell
mat, thai miVloiis of bushels of Metsl
poiniois have to he shipped from the
.Wrih. The Northern supply nnwt be
-h.pp.d in j.p.i ially designed car to
provciu i lii.m from fuezlug us well us
iroin oveiiieaiing. They are Ventilated
w.th .-pe. i.i ,ipp.,ratu ami a uniform
tempi rai.ite of :i.n degree, Is maintained
This sit.v of pievemlnc freezing In
a lesion win re the winter temper.ttiiie
-..in. nine,, drop t,, to below zero has
ii" is.-n.ited the bti.ldiug by the grower
of w.tti iii- about a.- lug a a freight eat.
vvh.ili .no put on t tinner and used to
haul the potatoes from the speolull.v
built cellars to the railroad station.
The uly potato industry of Alexan
dria La. fioin which point thousand
of bit-hois me uli.pped to the market
ahead of all other sections, in the
on.iol ,,f a eolonv of Itelglans. who gei
Heir see,i from Aliuneota. Theie are
ui'tetv ini!:ie in the colony, and each
bus L'lo'.vn rich off the business. The
leader of the olotiy. Prank Vangoed
senhoveii. ha averaged frhm $L'00 to
?r. an .ore for .ve.irs. r.ibbago ntv
ill-d in profusion between potato
growing -e.i-ons on the same land.
NEW USES FOR FILET LACE.
N' ' u-e b nig found for fun
litet Ian. Last vear pincushions, capf.
pillow lascs. vvoik bags were made of
it and now come a list of other vva.vs
in wh.di to iitiliw tins smart looking
ihiugli inexpensive material.
Some of the prettiest thing.- combine
Uu- imitation ince mid the narrow real
lac edge liihy spieaiLs of tills sipmi e'"'"'
niotit material tn.ic be finished wlthV
lit m crochet edge and lined with oMorert '
ot vvlnte iiopo de chine or snft'srlk
The limit of these filet "qtmrW, Hut
totiholed on sheer bandkiTchlef lluon.
make i harming cushion tops nnd nlghl
,-own c.i-e- In this material, reall.v
ni'iuu for curtain. nc, tin- best designs
arc lhe clasHlc.
lioudoir. rap and little morning
jackets .ire made of soft nlet lace nnd
Until with pale chiffon mid trimmed a
bit with clusters of chiffon roses.
. ' hie of the novel vvus In which to
u-e the.-e small motifs is to apply them
to paper or tin talcum powder boxe
tlr-t pasting on u layer of floweieil rib
lion or colored silk. , finish of narrow
gold braid oi tiny libhim fringe around
tlie lop adds decidedly to the iffect.
Shades for boudoir lights or can
dlis are also made of these Ucn squares
put togetlnr with a narrow beading and
fiii'-'ied vviiu linen fringe.
MAKES FACI! YOUNGER AND SHAPELY
Dr. Prat! JHJ!k- ts
Lilts Up iSE& Um
The jMSSh TohiPI
Tightens jfyt fSB? cfala
Tht 'A r TVeS up
Flabby f-. , The
Skin I I "SR"
1 r t to 1 i i HI (Ml in will
i dr. pratt Mr:v