Newspaper Page Text
THE SUN, SUNDAY, DECEMBER 28, 1913.
SUN S FASHION EXPERT DISCUSSES 1913 INDIVIDUALITY IN WOMEN'S DRESS -eon Baskt Revolution in Art Dress and House Decorations Startling Color Schemes Show What Woman Can Do for Herself in the Way of a Frame ity i.triu: tiii:iM k. E Kit since llio npcnlliK of the Salon d'Aiitomuc the arllHtic circles of 1'iirla Iihvo been In a stall' uf feverish excitement. Utrie have bi'i'ii endless discussions on tin subject ot the new nrl,. Confer nurs 'imve boon given and mure than out- course of artistic lectures. Wo have been told that the color n Hemes of Leon Unkst live thi' only nni-u possible for cultured Individuals. Within the came hour vtu havu been Mid that the Hallet Itusse wave, which li.ii swept across l'arls, has destroyed teal beauty and opened the way for tvpoiicnts of tneiely eccentric claptrap. Paris, for once, lias been bewildered. Sho dias been asking herself, "In thin ri genuine revolution In tjio world of urt? Or In It only a passing fad, which Mill quickly Moat away, leaving little 'rare behind?-' Of course It Is not the llr.st time that fails has been u.ia by the ccecn ttleltlcs of tiHramodcrnlsls In the ait world, I'or years luck, on and off, there .iavo appeared dating spirit who have irfused to Join hands with persons of normal, or what is called normal, Idea!" sml Ideals. There have always lieen those who have stood aside with In tention. Hut the present revolution nnd personally 1 regard the movement :ii tnat light Is a much more serious affair. It Is not only Insistent mid well oiganlzcd; it Is also a movement which has arrived nt the right moment. 1'eople have been prepared for It. Karly last spring I had occasion to (.peak ut some length of the lulltience which the liusslan painter and designer l.eon Itakft was having upon the world of at I In l'arls as well as in other great apitnls. And It was not only Hakst individually: It was aim his work in the i:tislan It.illet and the unexpected color (hemes which t.ut wonderful ballet lias brought into existence. No one now ventures to sneer at the futurists, or even nt the cubists, for Although Hakst is neither a futurist nor a cubist his peculiar art Is closely allied to ttiese schools. One thing Is q alto certain, he L a master where s'rontr colors are concerned, lie under ..t inds better than any other living man how to handle these colors, how i i combine them, how to Mint; together e most unexpected tints. Above all he iindert.tnd how to i j with tiendlsh .-kill broad splashes of black and dead white. In s'lort, he Is the man who ha? rm il tin. wot Id of ni l upsld" down d that hi Influence Is no mere pass- affair is gradually becoming real- 'J, at Iciirt In Paris. At the present Salon d'Automne we find proofs of a -cmilne, pi-rmaneul volution on all f.iUo. Wo are at the 1-oginnlng of a new era where house decorations and mural arts are concerned. This Is an 'nterestinir fact. My readers do not need to lie re minded again that I am a fervent ad vocate of Individuality, especially In women. This Is a gospel which 1 preach n season' and out. 1 do so because I beiieve that Individuality of thought, word and action Is the most Important affair In the world. Without Individ uality we are worse than sheep, for even he most conventional nmong us have ome instinct that teaches the fact that ..aracUT and temperament differ, as do features. As an individualist I take special pleasure, In the Leon Uakst revo lution, for the new color schemes are so strange, often so unrestful, that they must be treated Individually, otherwise taej become merely ridiculous. That Is " to say, they must be studied nnd In i loae connection with the individual t onnected with them. Though many of the specimen suites 1 ' rooms exhibited at the Salon d'Au ' mine are startling and unrestful to un evat-gerated point, they are almost all .nstrurtlvo: there Is hardly one which fails to show what an intelligent woman f even ordinary means might do for herself In the way of a frame, There are sombre, majestic, reception rooms i which sultry reds, blues -and Kreens s and out from dead white backgrounds, where Riibtle touches of dull copper aro . ipplied by embroidered cushions and leie strong lights are shaded behind irved plaques of semi-transparent .via. one could see at a glance how mag- i tleent, superb, a beautiful woman of "ad white skin nnd red gold hair might . k In such a salon. Her trailing robe of glistening Jet would give a splendid "Tect as she stood against the dead white wall with Its deep Ktrusran frieze. And close by this mysterious salon ' iere was a sun kissed hall, decked out a white and vermilion paints and Hom ed with black and white tiles. Wlth f it a glance ut a catalogue one instlnc ' vely thought of midsummer lu the niiitry, of a blazing aim and of u vast a lie sea. I went around the salon for the first om with an Intimate friend of Ledn Kikst, arid we amused ourselves by mining the Individuality of ench deco , ' ited room without looking at our cnta giie. When we came to the vermilion ii id white hall my companion said, v. hoiit a moment's hesitation, "A villa n llpnneqiieville Hill In August." And h was nearly right, for the red and wtute hall whs part of a color BCheme c .ited for Mine, Paquln's new seaside : idtfiKe, at Trouvllle. 1 might continue this subject at ugth, hut spat'o forbids, I do not, however, opologlzo for Introducing it l"to a dress urtlcle, for a serious tlmr.Ee the world of decoratlvo art racans Nous changes In the world of dress, n I I repeat wo are on the evo of a si'IlUlllii revolution. ' inly a day or two ago the news was it corded that the ono and only NUInsky 1 us the Intention of separating himself f' mi the Ituanlati liallct and of organ Mtg ii n eclectic ballet of his own. In 'is following of NUInsky wu have such "'n as Claude IJebusy, Igor Htravvln- ' y, and even. In a sense, Aitgiisto ' lln, for Kodln has written an appre ciative preface to the book which is Just e milt to be published by I'aul Irlbe on the siiIjIkU uf NUIn-ky's art. All the V A quaint evening headdress "La Belle Ferronniere." The hair is an artistic plaque in enamel falls diamonds. Kreat artists of the present day seem to be gradually Joining hands. And these clasped palms presagn a revolution. Wo shnll find distinct traces of the chatiKed order of thought when the summer sea son of Paris opens. We shall certainly find changes In the picture exhibitions of next year, lu the really up to date theatres and, above nil, in the world of dress. I cannot leave the subject of Russian art without adding a few wolds on tho subject of a recent Interview given by Leon Uakst to uu Kngllsh newspaper on the subject of "Dress and the Kn Itflh Woman." It ,was a very notable Interview because in it the famous painter laid great stress on the neces sity of studying and understanding In dividual typos. He is uf opinion, for example, that a l'arls gown in Its original outline Is rarely suitable for an Kngllsh woman: and he says that tills rule applies In a far greater degre? to a l'arls lint, Tho English woman as ho sees her Is a stately creature who ought to dress In tho street In well cut tnllored suits and who ought almost always to wenr a large hut. lie points nut the physical difference between English anil French women, nnd of course goes on to Indi cate radical differences In character and temperament. lie added, and with good reason, that Amorlcan women are far more adapta ble than their sisters in .England, and that for this reason, and others also, they wear Paris gowns and hats with ex quisite grace. It was a very Interesting Interview nnd more than a little in structive. This winter, on subscription nights nt the opera antl at private receptions, I havo noticed a great change In the fash ion of Jewels. Nowadays no woman of really cultivated taste dreams of wear ing ordinary ornaments. Tho day of stereotyped tiaras and necklaces Is over, and hero wo again find ourselves confronted by tho spirit of Individuality. Every woman of fashion now calls for something that has been specially de Signed for her. To meet these demands tho most precious family Jewels have been broken up and reset and the craze of tho moment Is for ornaments copied exactly from Jewels worn by famous beauties of 'olcb'ii days. The only thing mi Ml H MaWI I M 0w V&WVIWIHWHilIB II TWO NEW HEADDRESSES. copied from Leonardo da Vinci's A theatre headdress in black dressed high on the head and then of diamonds, on the forehead from a chain of utilch never chanxes its form Is the stilng uf pearls, long or short. Indeed, pearl necklaces are moro fashlonnble at tin present moment than they have ever been. Yesterday afternoon I spent an hour In the private atelier of one of the most famous art Jewellers in Paris and he showed me some really exquisite orna ments of the latest designs. Some of the most attractive of these ornaments were composed of cut crystals and sapphires. Sapphires are the favorite stones of the hour they are even more popular than diamonds, A superb pendant, designed for a Ittisslan grand duchess, was com posed of a single sapphire of great size rimmed with small diamonds and hang Famous Hotel Dishes of NKW OHK probably lias more hotels in proportion to Its size thah any other city in the world, but none of thorn pos sesses tho fame for certain marvels of the cuisine, that was attached to some of the hotels of the past Those who remember the old U runs wick, at Fifth avenue and Twenty-sixth street, will recall (he dignity and solid quality of tho house, the famous wine cellar. The game ani the winea of the old, Urunswick are still spoken of to-day in many of the clubs where tho oldsters now gather A cheese famous at tho Ilninswlok was mixed by tho head waiter from Roquefort cheese, butter, Worcestershire sauce and a glu of port wine a famous old brand. Paprika was added and tho whole mixed to a paste nnd thickened with cracker crumbs. Tho choose was shaped in little torpedo shaped mounds nnd sorvod on fresh green leaves, It wo dollolous, nnd although It Bounds simple, lacking that wonderful port wine, the resulta do not equal Phillpo's famous tidbit. Another after dinner dainty was made by mixing a Oervais cheese with two spoonfuls of cream and a glass of Bar le duo jelly. This wan served on hot toasted crackers. Nouchatol, butter and jam are u mom economical substitute. Tim I'ifth Avenue Hotel was celebrated ing on a chain of unset brilliants which looked like a long siring of living lire. Another ornament, designed for the same personage, was a pendant in Per sian design which was. encrusted with crystals and which had an enormous emerald In tho centre, raised in such 11 way that It seemed to stand alone. Still another lovely ornament, which had been ordered by the Duchess of Westminster, took the form of a broad clisp for the back of the hair, composed of aquama rines and rose diamonds set in platinum, The design was arranged In curves and tho clasp stood out n little from tho head in the fashion demanded by the latest style of hair dressing. I havr Indicated one of tho newest for its roast beef, and its boiled corned lieef was equally in favor. There was hardly any one of prominence in the political world who did not at one time or another stop thorn, The old head waiter grew" rich from his tips on the stock market received from patrons whom he looked after The secret of the wonderful roast beef probably lay in the cooking. There was an old fashioned spit upon which it was slowly barbecued each day, and eaoh day also the corned beef and cabbage and potatoes, noted throughout the country, were prepared by an aged Irish woman who came for that ono purpose every morning. The late Thomas C. Piatt, who made it his headquarters, always boomed the good roast beef, but partook of it sparingly, as he did of all foods. At tlie Hoffman House under tho man agement of William Caddigan such deli cacies as Southern breads and waffle made by a Virginia cook were disposed of daily in great quantities. The Hoffman chef also made a seolalty of many for eign dishes. Among these was the Rus sian soup Bortseh a la liusse. It was made in this wuy; Take a good stock and nearly fill the saucepan, Blanch a piece of brlskot of beef and put this in the stock with a young duok that haa been roasted very rare. When all ia tulle bordered with single rows I. air oi u.a m ' ii t s un uii' : ui' ln.nl" sketched this week. Thi- Is .1 ouaint forehead ornament copb-d sartly from one worn by Leonardo da Vinci's "I'.cii" Ferronlero." It was compiwd of a t' in string of diamonds mid u plmpic of doi-p blue enamel i limned In the same prvlnii stones. This ornament 1.1IN dlrerll.v on the forehead and Is full of artistic gtnie and distinction, The second head shows .1 lo w lli'Mlle headdress in blink tolie lioiilel.d with diamond or .niuamai nos. well known Parisian beauty appeal ed ut a lecent premiere lu a headdress of tins order bordered with tun opals, and all her friends warned Iter imalnsl lu r dar ing disregard of superstition. Other Days cooked slice tlie duck and cut tlie slice in little bits, cutting tlie lean of the heel in the same way I'as the soup through a strainer and add some ,ltilieiine made with carrots, cabbage ami oilier vege tables. Then put in the cut up duck anil beef, also some juice of beet to give the soup color Serve with cream anil tresli ground epier A potago named m honor" of tlie I'letich actress was consomme Satah Kernhardt il wus made from n good poultry stock, and when this boiled tapioca was put in the pot This was cookul for about an hour, 'then an infusion of tart agon, chevril, coriander and a pinch of cayenne was added, w ith one or two iiiiticod mush rooms and two shallots. Some sherry was added and the whole cooked for ten minutes, then strained and garnished in foreign style with marrow rounds, grated bread crumbs and quenelles of crayllsh Tho Everett House gained fame among; eplcuros under tho management of Will iam Hates, who now I . i the lleltnont. Mussels were cooked after a metlicd omewliat similar In the stylo of oyst.'rs a la HourgoRlie, and simvimI In the shells redolent with lomon, parsley, onion, celery and spices, Soft clam weto baked in thn shells in the maimer that afterward came to l known as casino style, with bacon and chopped parsley The Brevoort is still in existence It Is C. C. SHAYNE & CO. Importers and Manufacturers of STRICTLY RELIABLE FURS Announce Their Annual Discount Sale . Affording an opportunity to buy Fine Furs at a great saving. MODEL GARMENTS OF Chinchilla, Ermine, Mole, Mink, Caradul, etc 33' off Russian and Hudson Bay Sables at special prices. COATS Seal, Persian Lamb, Dyed Muskrat, Caracul, Mink, Mole 15 off STOLES AND MUFFS Mole, Mink, Raccoon, Beaver, Bear, Wolf, Caracul, Fitch, Fox 20r; off Lynx, Marten, Persian Lamb, Musk rat, Skunk, Chinchilla, Ermine 15cr off All Auto Furs 20 off 126 West 42d St. NEW YORK CITY now I'li iiMclerisliciilly I'n iii h It makes .1 secialty of its hot s il nuvio I's villi-' oils pioparaliotis of t'SK. sor"d in il - lis of style mi toa.-t with lloll.iiid.u-i' and Henmi-o sauce, me very popular Due o ihew mini.' with an aiti'l. 'k.-, bottom placo'loti hot toast. n bit of broiled ham mid a licli sauce poured over Tiuf lles and u-p.-iragiiH tips uvo the ir.-ii tii-li Another ipular h-h is on that etiK- ( inated eirs ago with the chef of ilietiilsey I lull-), since elo-ed Several Until ale j clou mil and boiled after lieim: rolled ill ii , ti ipk ill to prevent lire-iking. 'I hey lite Iheli , cooked nut I placet! una cold plate A ton nd ' i hem is arranged a garniture ol sliced pickles, u.ets. lot toco, chopped ur-oyiiiiil other bright looking vegetables A vinai-! gtetto samv i- served with this cu-ply appetizing dish I lolin ( 'li.i ml Hrli ii- in Washington was; on an equal plane with the hvt of the' old time American hotel 'I he capital I hiil luiliy citing place tiaturallv withj it huge political 'tiulatioii mid it- spending oap'ii'itx . .is v oil a the I mdne-s , (or elaboiale spread- winch war typical I of the time neatly half a century ago Ov -ter- were then the great supper dish, j unite a popular as lob-tcr i now I'ried anil stevv.Kl anil broiled and ro.iste I. they , weroobtiiinableat rhanibi'i lin's in a pei lecttoiith.it made them famous tip' world over 'I here were the choice I.yiinli.iven i oysters to pick fioiu, ami the Southern cooks, ut that Mine alwuvs colored. couM ' tin wonderful things with tin sea food, just a they did w ith duck ami bird- ti om the I hesapeiike region Champagne w.i- the invariable a, .om- i imminent to lhe oyster supper A l.ivor- j He method nt the t'hamberlin place wu afterward named after t lie old Long lle.n it , Hotel, then under the management ol .lohnT Devine. i j t)yters in Long lleach style ate rooked 1 ill n dialer. About a doen of the linger , ones i 'ap" I'odsor I.ynnhaveiis are put i ill the pan w ith a spoonful of tresli butter, j salt and ("ppor and a tableio.ailul ol ! chopped celery Cover end -inituer for 1 a lew minutes, then add a gla-s ol sh trv ! and l"t it cook lor a minute or two more Serve on hot toast 'liipe with oyster wa another dish i whii h was opular with the statesmen ot other days Ii i Mill mad" a specialty ol at tiiiuivol the New ork club, having tlie . re utnt loti oi being a gr.itelul tunic lor I an overworked stomach i 'I lie tripe I washed, drained, salted. ' -cildcd. ut in strips and simmered lor an I hour in clear soup stock with a stall, of t t elerv added This can best be done the I ll.l) pleeedltll', the service of the dl-ll- f J , ii i- lor bieakf.ist or foi supper In t,i, ( I e lse it i i cheated in I iio i bill i tig dl-ll w Itii t wo of three geneiou- pals ol good butler ,111111 a little silted Hour. Mil nil Well until i the .-am e tliit keii smoothly This will i take about half an hour Add a doen or mote oysters, according to sive; simmer thiee or lour minutes, season and sum on i n.i-i ABOUT POTATOES. -j-s in. latest grower of ced poi.uo, - I in the world i lleniy Schrocder, who own a faun of I.Mi iu'ics near Suhin, flay county, Minnesota, in the valley of the Ited I liver of tlie . Ninth, which furnishes ueiiily halt' of the seed potatoc for the lug growing dlstticts of the country. 'in I'.'ll Schroeder cleaned up $ti,iiiiu on In l,V acres, or ncnrl.v $1im an in ie Mote than E.OAu.Min bllllels of seed potatois are earl shipped out of '.': lied llivcr '.illc, and flay coiinl.v is the centre of the indtisti.v. So,l and climatic condition combine to lu'itm this uhoiil. Several hundred uieii liiiv, made tontine. In raising seed potatoes in that section. Some of these tn.g.in ten or llfleeu .vears ngo with nothing and to-day ale ruled nt several hnndp tl thousand dollars. Seul potatoes iroin thai reg'ou bring fancy prices each e.ir-ull the way from $1 to JJ.'.'.'i n bushel, mid the le!d inns fioiu I nil to 2."o bushels an note Most of the siock raised for seel m the Tinted States come ftom Midi -gun, Mliinosov'a. Malm- and Wisi oii.-in The South 1 a large liu.vi-r, becmise cl.iiiali' condition then- inleil'eto wl h the keeping of the tubers The Minnesota Kxperitnent Station' n.i- one man who spends most of his t me ill iionstrnting nnd experimenting with potatoes. lie I A. IL Konhler. lie ' the greatest experts in the wotld tl l.ei l.ne. He lias developed several lew varieties by cros pollenljiatlon. One fit th tilings he is trying to do is to develop a potato that will remain true t" type instead ot levelling to the long, ilnu and stringy tuber of the tlrst po tatoes known lu the inily da.vs of the potato In dustty mowers had only one Idea in mn d. at.d that w.i to produce potatoc that could lie sold. ."owadi.vs the ad vanced trowci raise potatoes that be i.inse of then- superior mealiness brine prices cciierallj far above the market avcrag-. The wanner the climate the mere prune the potato Is to revert to tlie original t.vpe. Successive genera tion planted ftoin the same seed grown in the same legion develop a variety utterly unlike the original and marked by pointed seed ends that make for de t I juration The early potato Industry of the mtry is lu, at-d in the valley of the Itnl Ulver of the South, Alexandria, La., h, lug on,, of the lug centres of the In dustry. It Is been use of the warm ell mat, thai miVloiis of bushels of Metsl poiniois have to he shipped from the .Wrih. The Northern supply nnwt be -h.pp.d in j.p.i ially designed car to provciu i lii.m from fuezlug us well us iroin oveiiieaiing. They are Ventilated w.th .-pe. i.i ,ipp.,ratu ami a uniform tempi rai.ite of :i.n degree, Is maintained This sit.v of pievemlnc freezing In a lesion win re the winter temper.ttiiie -..in. nine,, drop t,, to below zero has ii" is.-n.ited the bti.ldiug by the grower of w.tti iii- about a.- lug a a freight eat. vvh.ili .no put on t tinner and used to haul the potatoes from the speolull.v built cellars to the railroad station. The uly potato industry of Alexan dria La. fioin which point thousand of bit-hois me uli.pped to the market ahead of all other sections, in the on.iol ,,f a eolonv of Itelglans. who gei Heir see,i from Aliuneota. Theie are ui'tetv ini!:ie in the colony, and each bus L'lo'.vn rich off the business. The leader of the olotiy. Prank Vangoed senhoveii. ha averaged frhm $L'00 to ?r. an .ore for .ve.irs. r.ibbago ntv ill-d in profusion between potato growing -e.i-ons on the same land. NEW USES FOR FILET LACE. N' ' u-e b nig found for fun litet Ian. Last vear pincushions, capf. pillow lascs. vvoik bags were made of it and now come a list of other vva.vs in wh.di to iitiliw tins smart looking ihiugli inexpensive material. Some of the prettiest thing.- combine Uu- imitation ince mid the narrow real lac edge liihy spieaiLs of tills sipmi e'"'"' niotit material tn.ic be finished wlthV lit m crochet edge and lined with oMorert ' ot vvlnte iiopo de chine or snft'srlk The limit of these filet "qtmrW, Hut totiholed on sheer bandkiTchlef lluon. make i harming cushion tops nnd nlghl ,-own c.i-e- In this material, reall.v ni'iuu for curtain. nc, tin- best designs arc lhe clasHlc. lioudoir. rap and little morning jackets .ire made of soft nlet lace nnd Until with pale chiffon mid trimmed a bit with clusters of chiffon roses. . ' hie of the novel vvus In which to u-e the.-e small motifs is to apply them to paper or tin talcum powder boxe tlr-t pasting on u layer of floweieil rib lion or colored silk. , finish of narrow gold braid oi tiny libhim fringe around tlie lop adds decidedly to the iffect. Shades for boudoir lights or can dlis are also made of these Ucn squares put togetlnr with a narrow beading and fiii'-'ied vviiu linen fringe. MAKES FACI! YOUNGER AND SHAPELY Dr. Prat! JHJ!k- ts Lilts Up iSE& Um The jMSSh TohiPI Tightens jfyt fSB? cfala Tht 'A r TVeS up Flabby f-. , The Skin I I "SR" 1 r t to 1 i i HI (Ml in will i dr. pratt Mr:v