The sun. [volume], October 18, 1914, SEVENTH SECTION, Image 62

About The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916

Image provided by: The New York Public Library, Astor, Lenox and Tilden Foundation

                
THE SUN, SUNDAY, OCTOBER 18, 1914.
FASHION RETURNS TO SMALL
ULTRA SMART HATS FOR WINTER
4
Picture Shapes Will Also
Be, Worn -Grapes
Among r.hc Favored
Trimming s W h i t c
Plush Toques Among
Novelties of the Winter
'--Latest Beauty Veil
, R equires a Queer Make-
.A'!-
.i.piiiiiT.-!, France, October 7. .
LEWIS, tho Pari milliner. In show
Ing In his brunch establishment
fit tti'ifilt? tiiA new models for
vla; r c nr. They nre hp lovely
s they tire becoming. We seem to have
returned ! ui affection for small,
Ultra Knurl hniw; nt least Lewi Is
ihomr.K these in considerable numbers.
tirnicful picture lints will ul.o be vcri-
niueh worn all through the winter, but ,
for ordinary une we shall llml cloe i
r.ttlng toque coverid with coque fonth-
crs and (iiialnt Utile felt hats with nnr
row brttns very much to the fore.
Lwn Is nguln using nrtlllclHl graps
black, v. lute and pale preen on many
of nts new model. These grnpe are
always small anil lire framul In velvet
leaves. bl.i''k or while. Another favor
ite trimming Is a fort of cone made of
small grape... This cone Juts out de
ll.inly at one side of the hat and clvn
n particular!. -mart effect. A hut of
thh order Is illustrntcd this week.
It i a dose lilting shape, well drawn j
down on the had. and the trimming
consists of one of the Impertinent look
ing cones winch I have Just decrbrd.
have seen this model copied 111 dark
purple velvet, with the cone trimming;
in "black '-rapes framed In dull silver
leaves, the effect was excellent.
Tbe eeoiid held shows another Lewis
model which Is having an Immense suc
cess Ju-t n w. This Is a supple velvet
shape bordeicd with ermlneand trimmed
at one side with a single rose, or with
n c'histci of smaller flowers. In ogg
shell blue this model Is lovely wh n
botvlered with skunk and trlmnied with
ft flull pink rose set In dark brown
leaves.
Soft frit shapes are very smart when
trimmed v.th a band of ottoman ribbon
around the crown and worn In conjunc
tion1 wllh a handsome white lace veil.
Some of the new high Implex ate cov
ered with a peculiar make of plu.h
which closely resembles silk beaver. It
Is luui; haired and Is brushed or ironed
lint. Toques covered with this material
nt1 verv nttrm t:v: e.peol illy the large
trk'ornr sn.ipo which are trimmed with
n cluster nf winas at one side or wltn
very lmg. hut heron feathers.
White plus' toques will be one of the
leajim: novelties of the winter seaum
nnd a d.i.nty notion Is the Introilitctlon
,f a whole ermine around the crown,
the only other trimming being a bunch
of 'realistic violets placed close In the
front. Sailor shapes covered with silky
pltith are alo among the novelties -f
the hour: some nre trimmed around !
the crown with a numbrr of flat dahllits j
In NHllouy shades ,f red and purple. . ,, . . .u - .i,t f tncc hArrioc in fnrm nf a rnne .et
Acnrmuig little novcltv is the bo,l " J-cwis inuuci in uiai.iv. vc.vci wnfi . uuv W4 -
toque .'over. d with piu-di or velvet and 'at one side: the berries are framed in leaves made of white stamped velvet,
tritium d with clusters of Hat roses, the ,
flower lHn arranged neatly all ar und 1 these nre carved and Inset with sliver: French cakes nre served also.. gla-s. squeeze a piece of orange peel
the. edge of the t. .que. These little hats others are quite plnln. 1 have seen Albemarle llraeer Into a whiskey on top nnd drop It Into the glass,
h.iv., in. l.iiois and thev are worn I Ivorv buttons rlmnml In rosi diamonds. ! class pour one-half Jigger of Picon, Zni Cocktail One-hnlf Jigger each
. . . . i. .... .. .1 , ii -. .
prenxed .1..UII on the iiireiifi.t. nut these art not stillnole tor taiioren
A leading Pans milliner Is making a milts. They would look well If Intro
curious hat irlmming which consists 'f duced on an elaborate visiting costume
conventional flowers made of bended 1 which consisted of a black chiffon velvet
and' palll. tied mile. The tulle Is shaped skirt nnd a white chnrmcuse Louis XV.
Into' petal and supported on ''ry tin", coatt
Invisible wni's. I cannot say that I ad-
tamV 1"'.'n'V1n,.no,.!',I,ml,1,;' ,,Ul ." ' "r' j DURING THE ROUND OF THE
Tie m i;, latest b.-iuty veil Is n cob-j CLOCK.
W'di mesit In i'r.iiroiiard blue dotted
over Irregularly with black vehet tHLE cooling and tcmpemnce
paWhes 'I'lie milliner who Invented this iW drinks nre always In demand
veil says the face powder which ac- I p, warm weather the favorite
O Mia. l tl"'
"A woman must knou) her corset
before she attempts to wear it'
Do yu know your corset before you
make your purchase? The reputation of a
corset should weigh with you in its selec
tion. On it depends your appearance, your
comfort, yes. even your health.
Select it for its line and its fit its line is
fashionable and its fitting is comfortable.
Redfern Corsets have & reputation for
style, comfort, and service. Intimate con-
A t High Class Shops
Three to Fifteen Dollars
nections with the Fashion rulers enable the
Redfern designers to produce designs
lace back andlace front accurately adap
ted for the modes of dress. These designs
are tnen worked out with choice materials
to stand the strains of active wear.
Two of the styles most popular this
season are :
5eyl 7i78 Uee-Ud 17.50
Style 7)55 Uecfront $5.00
Titled English Women and the War
v nent rr h,vm for nn their wish nB to hospital work and sev-
A abandoned child or for clothes eral of them are at the front.
bitters, n half Jlscer nf brandy, n half 1 of nordon cln nnd Dubonnet bitters,
JlBRcr of creen creme de menthe, a I frnppe nnd strnln Into cocktail glass
dash of absinthe nnd a tablespoon of i with red cherry in the nnitom.
c m pa tiles It must be of a strong
"Tta. her tint and that the eyelids must
be"tonched with dark pink rouse; like
wls the hps. Of course It follows that
sucfi a make up looks quite unnatiiril
hut It l uniioubtedly attractive, -i in
cocktail Is nut overlooked by Its
devotees, and different ones are sacred
to special hours of the day, starting
with the before breakfast "bracer" and
finishing with tho "moonlight" nt night.
The cocktail habit Is encouraged by
shnved Ice.
Coffee Cocktail--Take n pony of port
wine, n pony of brandy, a teaspoon of
powdered sugar and one fresh egg. mis
In tumbler half lllled with shaved Ice,
then strain Into cocktail glass nnd grnte
a little nutmeg over the top.
Hronx CorktallOne dash orange hit-
ters, one-third Jigger of Italian ver
mouth, one-third jigger of. Krench ver
mouth and one-third Jigger of fiord. n
gin, Frappe nnd strain Into cocktail
gojden yellow face powder gives tile fnsonntnK. .sets that shop keepers
slclti a particularly creamy nppeornne-j Hnnw for , brewing, and which nre ns
utflter i ne dull blue veil and the touch tantalising to the "can't affords" as the
ofSv.Md color n eyelids and lips PH t "tiiiitiiltiH" or padlock whiskey decanter
tlw finishing touch to an effective pic- j ,s , th(1 t,piing butler,
ttnte. j The rocktnll baskets are t specially
SAiwthei sueco-sful b.auty veil lJ ,,..Kned for porch use; they are white
mjijd'' of hihotrope spider's web net I j,.,!,,,,,,, Wci.r wlth dainty cretonne
p-rtvdirrd w.th white pin dots nnd UnliiKH and nickel standard trimmings
terivd with two large black velvet . lln(1 (xtures to hold the glasses nnd
patches, the latter being so arranged i)()ttlrH In place.
tltjt they fall at the corner of the right j Tnf, vtc,y j,tlinl f nckel holds the
eyj ami on one cluek. Heliotrope net revolving bottle In the icntre with Its
ortulle pow.lend with black and white ! lender funnel to guide the vlchy ill
d.'ts is extremely flattering to the rcctly Into the glasses held in the sur
Mcin There Is a certain shade of pale rounding, frame, and tho rye or Scotch
roj" pink mil. which gives good results filled barrel with Its silver faucet and
ItiSlhe same circumstances, but to fair . mountings, accompanies the stnnd. The
coniplex.uns the transparent heliotrope ; little barrel of hard wood Is a replica
clDU'l .i.tiinst ahvajs proves b( coming. , of the big ones, but holds only the
Ipor ordinary use there Is no prettier , traditional quart.
f.lCe veil than the length of tine white1 One of the friendly bite baskets has
ttijle tin. kly dotted with black henllle n cracked Ice receptacle In the centre
pCfi hi.ots If the tulle is of n reallv 1 and over It tits the ruck thnt holds two
CW"1 'luallty the veil can be wa -lied sandwich or cake plates, and around
rsf.ln mid again. White lliissian net them the vlchv, gases, whiskey and
veils in sillt are mote fashionable tli.in i Mttcrs bottles are arranged, Whiskey
.a.r Mil iiownd.ivs ibe desiuu on tlie1""1! ""da sets arranged on handsome
noi-dcr ih not allowed to disllguro the'tniys with nickel racks to hold the
American Ttenuty Cocktail Into the
mixer half filled with shaved Ice put
two dashes of grenadine syrup, one
tlurd Jigger of Italian vermouth and
two-thirds Jigger of Tom gin. Stir well
and strain Into cocktail glnss with a red
cherry in the bottom.
Moonlight Cocktail One-third Jigger
Dubonnet bitters, one-thlld each of
French vermouth and (lordon gin,
frnppe and strnln Into glnss with one
white grapt!.
for the destitute used to meet
with, faint rcponse," said a worker
among the poor In the slums of London
recently.' "Now every appeal brings an
nlmost overwhelming response. In fact,
no appeal is necessary. Clothes arrive
In hampers and mothers already over
hurdened with the care of children of
their own beg to be nllowed to give n
home to n small, suffering Belgian refu
gee or the children of soldiers and
sailors."
So much has the w;ar accomplished
In London. Kverywhere among Eng
lish women one notes nn almost fever
ish desltv to be of use, to help those at
the front or those In want, or those who
have lied from their homes, ami If
there Is a certain lack of organization
In much of the relief work It is inspired
bv good Intention anvhnw.
At first all the money nnd work were
devoted to "our brave defenders." Kvery
rich wmrinn wanted to qulp n hospital
nnd st vernl women made efforts to es
tablish Held hospitals and to put them
selves at the head of bands of specially
engaged surgeons nnd nurses. No
doubt mnny of these offers were a se
who
equipped her own hospital, has been at
Namur and cama through the slego
safely nnd pictures of her Ib "jd Cross
uniform with her staff of r ,ises as a
background are popular In England.
The Duchess of Westminster has had
all her household nnd friends at work
on bandages, sheets, pillow rases, &c
for she too has equipped a little hos
pital Lady Hoxbtirghe, who has always been
prominent In political work, equipped
n hospital In Helglum In ten days, nnd
she spends her time going back and
forth across the Channel. Lady Sarah
Wilson and Mrs. George Keppel nre di
recting relief work near Le Touquet.
Lady Sarah Wilson has had experience
of relief work In South Africa, and Mrs.
Keppel Is a willing htlper and con
trlbutor. In fact, It ! at Mrs. Kep-
pel's house that the work has really been
carried out. and her beautiful rose and
gold drawing room Is n sort of storage
place for the garments and surgical
articles collected.
A.s for the hospital' In London, their
name Is legion, and 'beautiful houses In
rious embarrassment to the War Office. jOrosvenor Square. Portman Square
Jlayrnir ana ueigrnvia are uying m-u
Cross Hags outside, while Inside nre tap-
It Is not ensy to reject the offer of nn
earnest Duchess with plenty of money.
Influence and wealthy friends. You
may not want her about, looking lovely
In n Red Cross uniform nnd doing nil
the pknsantest part of nursing Igno
rnntly but zealously. But how can you
till her that?
Duchesses are luxuries not necessary
on or neap battlefields. Hut what man
Is brave enough to say this? So both
English and Krench duchesses have
I'.Jfe; It is rather not row and not at all
obJniMlvc. These whiti net vflU look
viiy smart when thrown looely "over
willle felt or velvet sliapeM.
JPonie of the new button for tailored
nulls ate made of einbroidi r. d leather.
V4ry Mirtll Louis nnd line silks nie iim'.I
for the embroideries, and the color"
ihj.sen ale mi vve'l Imimonlcd that
efrn on close Insp. etloli It Is dllllcult
tienv how the button has been made.
Ijjmve Men sotne admirable buttons of
t)j k nd u ed on nut brown cloth coats
nnM -kiits
l.ailtct'i winch won In r. .titty
tajl gL.ve Mil. was almost eiiHtely cev
ig'l with . nibroldei v. Heir and there
ldjl" . oniers of plain lentlur gave
ny. m-'tii to the design nnd Ihe silks
vjX'' in several shades of dark blown
rfi.l piuplr The liny bends were trl
?" . 'ii ind vv. i so .'-mall thai tin y
njp ic ,i Hat surface with the xiiu em
"' ' v:. - Tin "e buttons weie l.irge
glasses In place are varied In sizes.
Lemon squash sets are attractive to
the eye and suggestive to the palate and
consist of n round board of ash, like a
bread board, with a hollowed out place
to hold the sharp knife, a small white
wood disc on which to cut the lemon.!
an'i tne nienei irnme. crrscert snapoa,
holds two glasses with the lemon cup
holders, sugar bnsln, and In the centre
Ihe lemon squash wllh Its strainer and
drip cup. Altogether n most satisfac
tory outfit.
The mixing of drinks Is sometime,
rather problematical In households
where it is not of dally occurrence and
recipes nre not nl hand to help one nut
In emergency. So here are Just a few
cocktail secrets nnd Just a few wine cup
hints,
The nome equipment for drink mix
ing Incudes an Ice shaver, cocklnll
shaker, lemon squeezer, strainer, long
handled spoon and toddy slick, sharp
knives, a Jigger for measlirlng nnd
e bowl with
"1 1 11 oi.it. d i en i' of iL' Louis proper glasses. A cracked Id
" r' '!' wa- llnlH'cd on wllh a it. ., silver tongs Is always on the tra.
.a re Mii.,.r ina.ic ..r dark mini; The tVhen cocktails nre served In the middle
vtji..i.. si. i wis Mipreniety elegant and of ihe morning or afternoon or In the
ystiipa in .lend (evening crackers nnd cheese or hlghlv
ijFoi whue Kiirr and iloth suits ivory seasoned sandwiches are -offcied with
Mi ions are in great demand. Some of them. If women are tn the party little
f fr s ' iv .1 '
estrles covered with linens, empty spaces
where vnluablo old pictures hung or
rare china and crystnl rested, and nnr-
row beds and straight wooden chnlrs
where once were Chippendale tables and
Jacobean carved cheats.
As n matter of fact the War Office had
to call a halt here also and has declined
to accept any more offers of hospitals In
or about London.
The Amerlcnn women's hospital Is a
particularly tine one. No expense has
been spared nnd tho house kindly given
by I'urln Singer Is very elaborately
eoulpped. Mrs. Lewis llarcourt, Mrs.
Astor. Mrs. Walter Hums, Lady Henry
and other Anglo-Americans meet dully
and sew and plan for their project.
Devonshire House Is a Red Crius cen
tre, with Queen Alexandra at the head
of It. She has a way of dropping In
there Informally to sec her lieutenants
at work, while Queen Amelic 1a a dally
worker.
One can be enrolled ns a war nurse
there, but one has tlrst to provo that one
Is a trained and experienced nurse.
The Ited Cross Is adamant about this
and nil tho untrained women In every
walk of life who yearned to be minister.
ing nngels have had to return to their
vocations. And nn applicant has to run
a gantlet at Devonshire House, First
there Ih the building Itself to Inspire
nwe. Great, heavily carved and glided
Iron gates to enter; a commlsslonare In
nwe Inspiring uniform to face; then the
wonderful hall nnd the broad staircase,
all ghastly In whlto linen hangings now.
nnd flnnlly an array of titled and strong
minded women and stern vlsaged hos
pital matrons or lied Cross olllclnls. It's
an ordeal.
Tho best day for nny one to go is
the mnklng out to women Who were
suffering from conditions arising from
tho war.
This was a great thing. Labor bu
reaus started. Hed Cross groups gave
up sewing nnd employed poor women
and working England smiled again.
And what about euffmfflsts nnd suf
fragettes? They dont exist ns such am
more. They are nil Just helpers and
patriots, with this very slight dl'tine.
Hon, that most of their efforts nre mad"
for women.
Thus the emergency corps, wllh ttv
Duchess of Mnrlborough nt Its head tb
Hon. Mrs. Hnverfleld second In c an
mand nnd n score of actresses and wrl'
Vrs to help. Is registering women f"r
nny sort nnd kind of employment
"They enn take places left vacant
men who have gone to the front." Mi
Hnverfleld, who Is the daughter of 11.1
Ablnger, told me. "They enn gather !
the harvest, they can drive motor cir-j
nnd look after them, or net as bus .on
ductors or even groom horses."
The National I'nlon of Suffragl' s
has established a labor bureau and
has the London Suffrage Socletv ini
really the only suffrage nrganlzatl 'ii
which Is not nctlve ns nn nrgnniza' in
Is the W S. 1. V., the Pnnkhurst .
ganlzntliai Individual members ar
working In many ways, hut the socle'
as such remnlns coldly aloof. And If
does not mention suffrage neither do.
It mention succor. Nnturall.v therr
much criticism of this, at a time whf
the whole country Is throbhlnc wh'
pain and anxiety, nnd grievance nti'l
causes, political or feminist, nre 'a 1
aside.
A WAR DINNER.
WAR being the prevailing su
of cotiversatl in a clever ho.'te--despalrlng
of other topic s
dinner, said, "Very well. If thev si'
want to talk of war I shall give n dln-,
a la guerre,' ond encourage my frlen.N
to fight It out amiably 'vcr dishes of
the belligerent countries."
Accordingly at her next dinner the
table wns decorated with toy soldier
and guns to represent n battlefield. The
plare cards were flags of the wnrrlmr
nations nnd this Is the menu she -'t
before a cosmopolitan gathering;
Servla Caviare nlnd.
Russia Hortsch In cups
France Filet of Sole. Marguer
(Sermnny Aspics of Strnssburg tn
(Srns.
Austria Paprika Rhb..
Hungary Stuffed new cabbage
Japan Japanese Crosnes.
I'.iiglnuil Orouse, roasted
Helglum Salnd Waterloo.
Turkey Peach Sherbet.
Coffee.
The caviare salad wn- wrvod n
Servian style, the three varieties '
caviare, distinguishable ono frsra "vie
other by their color, being plccl m a
trefoil of three white lettuce le
with a centre of fancifully cut leu e
and the usual minced onion nnd chip" l
egg conspicuous by their absence
The Russian Hortsch was deb'
although mnny of the guests w 1
not tasted It before made ,i wr ' e
nt the suggestion of wiur cream. Hon
like olives, Is nn noqiilrod taste v't
agreed that of all the wonderful d
A popular Biarritz model in white velvet bordered with
rose set in dull silver leave.
ermine and trimmed with a white
when Queen Alexandra Is there, for she of Fiance sole a la Margnetv. vv i
is nie niosi gracious oi royalties aim ner luscious sauce of while wine rr
smile, even If It l n little tremulous ' mussels and other good things . nr
now tror sue is aged ana broken by 'nearest to perfection.
the war), Ib ns kindly na ever. , ciermany's contribution was S . -
Hut If one can't nurso. one can sew .K K(MHI uvrr ,,. ,, . ,,,.,f
and knit, nnd nil tho feminine world Is miIl, ,,!,. wn M10,(lri rc. .
doing mm or tho other, or both, nt this, surmounted by trullles In t ie
moment. Ever since Queen Mary were n happy thouirhl. Tt P"
stnrted her needlework guild making chicken of Austria was flnn-aee
garments or knitted articles has be- .my, ,Pml,.r yolmK cabbages stun
come the nige, Hut there was an tin- Hungarian stvle, and all agreed
expected result. :,Mf pPi,rn enhbage well de-i rx'
"For God's sake don't take the bread place upon a formal illniirr tin n
out of tho mouths of the women of; Thp ,IiM,amf)0 ,,rnHnPS
Lnglnnd! was the message sent to , ,,mmnM hl ,,nim.r ,, KnaUllA
Queer. Mary ns she and her fair haired lypt unfmnmr ln American n...
daughter and the Indies In waiting were ,lm1 ,vorP delicious Indeed, then '
placidly mnklng shirts nnd socks. shell shnped roots fried g. Men la-
Following this appeal Miss Mary Mac-1 Italian batter, faintly suggest.
Arthur, the head of the Women Work-1 the Inevitable brandy. The Wa'
ers' Fnlon, obtnlned nn audience with salad had curly leaves of op. I've .
the Queen nnd explained to her that the I basis, with oranges, gratiefru t 1
movement had caused many a poor white peeled grapes blended Hi a i
worker to lose her employment. Ing vf whipped cream and gr u" '
Queen .Mary wns horrllled, for she Is 'juice,
a very kind woman, and Bhe was prompt ( A peach sherbet made it, To
tn remedy the mistake, A me-sago from fashion wns delectable and ihe T '
the Queen was published nt once, and It ' coffee was served with a sji tip
urged women to help and employ other' from preserved rnsclenvcs ami
women, not to work on garments them-(The wines were well chosen aid ie
.pelves but to buy the material and give ! dinner waa a great euixess.