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II SIMPLE EVENING GOWNS WORN IN FRENCH CHATEAUX- THE . SUN, SUNDAY, OCTOBER 18, 1914. Color Harmonies of Exquisite Costumes Designed for Mine. Edmond Rostand Lovely New Rest Gowns n, ri, t in: ciir.nvs. THOt'CilI tt Is sadly true thnt in I'rnnro entertainments of u formal order would lio consid ered Impossible during the, war, jt id .1 to true tint there are ninny de Hjjh'fil meeting of friends and rein T'vp n the fiimouH chateaux. This Is the chateau season. In rd.nnry circumstances every one mi .1 now le talking of hunting, rvery "lie would he enjoying long days i,i the open air. In the mld.it of Kay cwan.' ns. nnd long nights In vast hal'.r i 'Hi The chateau season In i'rj I" one of the most delightful po id .f the whole year. The Immense country houses which are thickly seut trr4 all over l'ranee are always crovvd wl to overflowing In the. months of iirtu'ie" and November. It Is th" sea on when friends meet nnd discuss the harms of various smart seaside, re--irtJ. It s the season when tho possl Iltles of tho winter ure definitely nsldercd. Hut this yenr all Is . hanged. There are no l-'rcnehmen left to talto part In the hunting. Tho pheasants ure enjoying unwonted Immunity. The nounds are growing fnt In the kennels. The horse., even valuable racers, are all at the front with their masters. And so It happens thai the chateau season t 191 1 Is robbed of Its marvmllno cle ment. But that does not say thnt tho toi lettes worn In ths French country :outi.i nro not qtilto ns original nnd nt rsrtive as In former years. French women, perhaps more than any other feminine creatures, dress for their own private satisfaction. They really love htautlful and suitable clothes: tho art nrf dress Is to them a refreshing study. Ilrreln lies the real secret of the I'.i- rlV.fnne's success. She Is always per fectly. that Is to say, Milt ably, dresed, whether Rhe is nlone In her own boudoir, 'r In her loge at the opera on the occa sion of a gala performance. Now that so many prominent society women are engaged In working for the soldiers, very delightful reunions ,n held in the various chntenux. Friends meet together to discuss work actually in hand and to organize relief missions for the thousands of unfor 'unate women nnd children who have, been left homeless nnd helpless because f the war. Tho work to be done by those who remain at home Is. endless; .ind unhappily It increases every day. Snme of the most famous mondnlncs n France nre devoting their whole time o these necessary works of mercy: one f these Is tho Vlcomtesso d'Orlgny, who is as well known nt Trouvlllo nnd Ill.irrltz as In Parisian society. The Vlrotntcs.-v Is very tall nnd graceful, Ith a dazzling complexion and mns.ses of red-gold hair. She is famous for her isle in dress nnd has genius In the mrt'er of choosing the right gown for 'he right occasion. Recently she nnd Mmr IMmond Hostand the poetos, llnsemnnde (Jerard have been very much occupied In tlndlng work for women who have been left penniless by iie happenings of the war. Mine Itostand, who Is as practical as 'he i spirltuelle, has organized a splen did relief ml-slnn In the vicinity of her 0'intry house at Cnmbo and recently he g.ne a dinner at which nil the guests were women keenly Interested in the good work. Some exquisite gowns nere vvrn at this entertnlnment, and a 1 know thnt the readers of Tin: Sr.v are at present Interested In simple eve ning toilettes I hnvo sketched tho dresses worn by Mine. d'Orlgny and Mme. Hostand. N'o 1 In my group of two flg- res show. an Ideal dinner gown enm-D-w.-d of soft oyster-white chiffon. The iie.mtifully draped tunic was caught up ny a wreath of pinkish purple roses and th.. underskirt was made of b'a k mirror velvet. The corsage w.iti d"i Iletc, back and front, but there were 'ong, quite transparent, nit-eves, and n 1phu drapery over the shoulders which was specially effective. A wrenth of hums- the tlowers were all made of chiffon nnd China allk confined the nMs of material at the waist. This gown would make n delightful MUiinnt tolletto If a dainty gulmpe f r-nl lace were Introduced nnd the "-nstutnn accompanied by a picture hat. In detail It was exceptionally simple, hut the clever way In which the chiffon mnle anil the corsage were draped sup plled a cachet of superior order. Mme. Itostand always dresses In n 'rv personal style. Her g.wns are ex 'fdtngly artistic anil beautiful In mi '"riii) md outline; hut the special point e-nnveted with them Is this: each gown Is Hjif lull V designed fur tho poetess h'rseif t j nt merely a beautiful S'Wn ii is a beautiful gown which has reated for the solo purpose ni' ' ' "in mg the charm of u beautiful of the new tea gowns and dinner dresses have transparent sleeves of this kind. They nro attached to under bodices or chemisettes mnde of tulle of very filmy silk muslin nnd a curved cuff Is allowed to fall over the hands. l he model I have Just described would be lovely If copied In black mir ror velvet nnd white moussellne do sole Printed In black; or blnck nnd pale gold. The sable border might be changed for skunk or narrow Kinds of blnck fox. The last time l had the pleasure of spmklng to Jimp, Hostand she was wearing n charming walking drpss miule of Ivory whlto camel's hair cloth. The skirt was ideated back nnd front and there was a very long coat which was lined with pale lemon yellow satin. The buttons were In curved ivoiy nnd a lint stole In whlto fox was thrown carelessly over one shoulder, With this costume Mme. Ho.stnnd wore a Mat brimmed hat covered with blnck velvet which was iintrimmed ex cept for a severo lmnd, also of velvet, around tho crown. A lovely whlto lace veil wns thrown over tho lint In n very plcturcquo manner. Tho Malsnn I'aul 1'olret hns recently made somo lovely rest gowns for tho Kngllsh market. Hngllsh women nro devoted to this style of dress. They are clever at recognizing the subtlo difference between n rest gown and a rent tea yown, a difference, which must bo felt rather thnn defined. The famous I'aul Polret himself Is now n soldier. 1 had the pleasure of seeing him In uniform tho last time l wns In Bordeaux, nnd very well ho looked. Tlie rest gowns I hnve Just I mentioned were designed before Mm wur! broke out ami they nre being eagerly purchased nnd, I am afraid, copied In Ijondoti. One of theso gowns was made of a sliver tissue which was .peelally manu factured for I'olret. It Is supple as chiffon and bj no means fragile. It formed tho chief part of the gown and then there was a cross-over corsage In flesh pink tulle which was confined at the waist by a Hat band of chiffon rose.". Tho shape of the rest gown was ex aggeratedly I'olret. In the hand It looked like a dalmatic or an enlarged pinafore or even a superb smock. It had, npparcntly, no special shnpe. Hut when It was thrown on n tnll nnd graceful woman, and fastened by tho mysterious gnlon ornnments which ran right down one side, the change wns magical. At once nn exiitllte creation came, into being, one of th baflllng combinations of supple stuffs of which I'aul I'olret nnd pornnps he alone knows the secret. Chiffon velvet Is very much used f ir rest gowns of the more elaborate order. This material does nit easily crush when the quality Is good and In all the new shades of nil nnd blue It gives exquisite effects. An admirable Indoor costume wns made of chiffon velvet In a splend'd shade of fuchlii red. The lines of the gown were straight and flowing, nnd at the hem it was bordered with skunk. Then there was a crossover corsage, with kimono sleeves, which was c .n flned nt tho waist by a length of pale gold gnlon, which was wound round the waist and then loosely tied nt one side, rather low down, This dress was accompanied by a chemisette made if oyster white chiffon and there wers long, transparent sleeves similar to those shiwn on Mme. Hostand's gown. Liberty velveteen is nil Ideal material for rest gowns of a comparatively Inex pensive order. In Japonlca pink nnd In all the fnshlnnnble shades of yellow this stuff Is lovely. It looks well when com bined with pleated chiffon and bordered with narrow bands of skunk. WOMAN WHO RUNS A FLEET OF LAUNCHES. S IIR Is n quiet little woman In a blue anil white striped hoii'e dress and a white apron with .1 Long Transparent Sleeves a Feature of New Tea Gowns and Dinner Dresses I etrennes will be substantial sums of money, other gifts In Kind uolng less esteemed, Altogether Marie lliuls com pcnsatlons for her long hour. and hnrf work und rough accommodation and ah., munnges to enjoy lur life, often staying many years with the same family. At (Ustonied us he Is to meet with "UbertJ enunllty nnd fraternity" within doors In her bwn colintry, the atmosphere of nn English house and thi; sharp dividing line drawn between servants nnd ihelr tnp!oyers its well as the still sharper distinctions between -lervants nmong themselves must prove very chilling and incomprehensible to Kronen maid" who take places In tha' country. The duties of the bonne a tout falre might be summed up In one word, con Jugatrd by the virb "to oblige" An un failing cheerful wllllngnt ss makes up for any lack of punctilious regard Mr duty In the concrete. Helng trustworth and thrifty, Marie can buy equally Kfl well as her mistress if need be; she can cook very nearly, if not quite, ns well, nnd ns she works with her mistress sh" quickly learns to adapt herself to alt the tatter's dens. She Is quite Wltnoui nny false pride and draws no line with regard to what should or sliouiu noi uc expected from her. Alfectlon between mistress anil mam nnd especially between the children und their bonne, is by no means wanting. In Hito of the ruling motive tor grri vice being that of saving. cry pauciu with her charges Is M.irle when she It sent out with them, nnd Indoors she I' evei' ready to play with and amuse thtm It Is perhaps as nursemaids- bonne d'enfnnts that they mostly seek ser vice abroad, when tempted to leave their country, although the Krench lauy maid Is much sought after by visitors 10 Krunce, but some training as a hair dresser and as a couturleii- Is needed before a good phice as personal maid can le taken, and not all country girls nre able or huvc tho means to acquire this training. The wages pnld to renlly good and capable Krench servants were hlghi especially In I'nt-ls, but the bonne a tout falre In a country or manufacturing town fares less In this respect. The wages themselves are. however, only half the cost, for washing is paid an well as nil board and lodging, If that Is outside the house, and the substantial etrennes expected at New Year's mutt be added on. This explains why many middle cIiikh families do without sei vants nnd economize on the femtnt. de Journee. On the other hand, the fact thnt the demand for servants befor: the war was chiefly among the pro-' fesslonal and wealthier classes tended to keep up wages and raise the wholo standard of service. As a rule It Is thn better class of country girl who Is attracted to service the daughter of the farmer or smalt peasant proprietor. In cities the young women, ns else where, nro more usually nttracted to work In the ntellers, or In shops and factories. On left Worn by the Vicomtesse d'Origny. A picturesque gown composed of black mirror velvet and oyster white chiffon. The wreathes of roses arc in a subtle shade of pink purple.. nn ricrhtRr.nitifnl tea frown worn bv Mme. Edmond Rostand. The undcrdress is made of prune colored charmeuse and gray sweater for the cool evening , ..,, ; rfvnl:an hlne mr.11sseline.de soie nrinted with black nonnies. This tunic is bordered with sable and worn 1 1 1 v UVUMVIi V 1 v " J - - I I 1 1 1 . .U.. ITn.lu.iti lm Ilia mmi who run the Cox launches speak to over a chemisette made of dull pink tulle Mrs. Cox with a significant deference. i,,,i . ..... i...ui.i .1.. i.. 1 the boathnuse I thought I heard n cr 1 no Kliuuy eyes eeiuim me 'l""'ir .,,.. ,,, ,, ,1. ....... i, light up at mention of the fact. "r "M; ' " ... " , i w , 1 II I ll! Ill 1 i 1. ! n; ; MANGLED BY MOUNTAIN LIONS. Tuo Herders Hnve llespernle Untile With Pour llrimfK, IH.w1.11, Col. Oct in Max Mirliari and Joe Hchlosser, sheep herders, are In a (Jlenwood Springs hospital ns the result of 11 battle In thu dark early one morning with mountain lions thnt hud raided their sheep. The men were torn almost to shrede in their flght with the beasts and four big' sheep dogs, which als,j attempted to drlvo off the marauders, were wounded badly. Khrhart anil Schlosaer, who have been tending 2,500 sheep on llattlenient Mesa, near Haven, (VI., were aroused from their sleep by the barking of their dogs, (rubbing their rltles, they rushed into the open, nnd about 11 quarter of a mile from camp found two of the ibigs In a terrific struggle with four mountain lions. Schlosser fired at the Hons. Ilefore he rould reload two lions leaped on his balc and bore him to the ground, As IChr. hart started to nld him the other two Hons Jumped on him. Tho men fought oft the Hons, but not until both had been terribly mangled. grent collie Jumps up with one paw on r shoulder, "lie often goes out In the ats with mo; he's Just as fond of th en, 1 riiiiiii'-- 11 f ,i-w,n-T- ..1.- .... , 1...... .... 1 ..... Uni.u- I enn run n bo'it the same as thev t"n down stairs anil jinn pen mum .1 ....... . can And tl en I an he boss of , 1 Sure enough, we found two men holding "I'm up at ti o'clock In the morning b i nches tv hu I m l tends to th.. to the side of their canoe JuM about f j getUng breakfast nnd then I'm out r.in c., .go down. Hut with a little h,.t coffee nlng boats, at the engine or the wheel " Tvo lived i n the water all mv life they were all right. i ntl noon. On Sundays d, n t try t. v".. , th.v didn't Kive us anythlii'i. get dinner, but have a big steak f... r..w boats across the river with my hns- My husband has sned 3s. lhes and b ind. It was hard work to handle the the only money lie ever got wn Ironi blir imr.s. tho launches' are easier, tit .a man wimse " ..,.r 1 irmnv nil iiln, nt bow 10 run He hns mai'.y medals. Sometimes It them. And let me tell you running nn automobile Is nothing to running 11 gasolene launch. You have to allow for tho waves the big steamers make and you have to land Just right or you'll seems ns If people disliked J 011 after you'd saved their lhes nnd felt that It gave you a sort of claim on them. It's different with animals. I got a little skye terrier out of the water last suin- 1... in tiw. wnier with n hole In vour ' mer and he comes down to see ine regu- boat. In this river you have to allow I larly, always wagging his tall and Jump fur tide. Of couise thero nre all tho I ing up to kiss my hand. river lights to watch for In night work Kxcept for an occasional tall apart ment house Inwood lookn like a coun try village, though It Is only two blocks rrixn always busy Hroadway and the breakfast and let It go at that. The mill gt something to eat at the luncii curt, but often I don't get anything t" eat until 10 o'clock nt night. "Hut 1 wouldn't change my work for any other, and I'm suving money now to buy myself n little launch Just for my own pleasure. I don't see how any woman could help liking It provided she wns fond of water nnd an outdoor life It's sometlttKH hard to get a boat In the small towns that are on the water, nnd I often wonder why some woman doesn't buy a few to rent. She'd have not only what she made on them hut what she saved at the milliner shop. I never wear a hat, winter or summer." "The only life I ever saved all alone was when I was only 1 1 years old. I was Jumping rope down nt the foot of Korty-scoond street when a (ieriiriu wnm.m started out. though the water Dyckman street enhnnce to the sub- (,ry rillfi,, ( miy a little way from ! way to the Cox bint landing, wheie the JlllrP 10r 1(,al Went over nnd she begun FRENCH HOUSEKEEPING BEFORE iilliclies carry passengers u.-rnss ,Me . Heream for belli, so I Jumped lu Just' Tin? WAT? as I was ann got tier 0111. "We never stop for weather lieie. and I hnve often run across through the Ice river to the Harrlman park. There lu .he frowning .-lindow of the rallsades violets lift their bli ye In spring ,, jack 111 the- PUIPU nous ou.ooor .,. .hev hve been building the Sunday throngs who.,.' ',,., ,,miuh n, ,mri.-. "'iii.ii .Mid this is as It slioulil in1. 1 ... muiii- to n .1 woman has the courage 1. be 1 have onv to find 11 forest 10 cents I'M. dual n matters of dress she his ;iVW,j fium NYw York MVeii many steps lu the dlri-elliui of ! "VSY e.inj "00 on Sunday In the 'tiii Hut there must be no hesitation. ' ng and 1.000 every Sunday later U 'lil.'lll u-ll.k U'ImIw.m Iii mill:., un - .... - I .... 1 1 mii.u "We b.'ien f .ndivlilual dressing must have f ,m -live' launches and ,.K;uy.f,iiir trees and full out of them urige of her Ideas. She must mil ' ,...i.s. nnd every one of them out on n N Krench hotels and In Krench house. 11 Sundays, und her bedroom ucconitcn. 1 datlon Is often little letter than a cup board, while such a thing us a servant's sitting room with an easy thalr Is prac tically unknown. YVheio there wi re sev eral servants kept meal weri taken In I'olllce. a kind of butler's p.intr, bare 1 f everything but t.iblm and ih irs. nnd .f comfort Is uneuiisidi led iIta istair.s still less Is It thootfhl me' ss.it in the sleeping npiirtnii'iits .ibuw. In I'ari nan flats of even quite handsome size the accommodation for servants is mea kre in the extreme, nnd very often they are expected to sleep out. And yet, while 11 servunl's comfort srems to be the last thing thought "f. Hi'1 supply of servant.s was almost In excess of the do 1 tin ml. The reiison I. that the hoarding Instinct Induced them to put up with mythllig provided they received giod wages and could put bv their earnings. In the ionise of years quite large sums will be amass, d by thrifty servants, who hold Statu hiiud.s and inilliicip.il stock to an Incredibly large unmunl. To he 1 omo a rentlere In her later year.-' that ,s to receive nn Income from mteri -t on i.-vestiil savings in rentes und to re tire into the couuti to 11 ( one e Istence assuiee, Is tin- ambition of even jthe humblest maid of all work, and no pieseiit discomfort wns too hard to en- holds before the war a large pro portion of the win It was done by oure 111 oruer 10 g.1111 mis 1 uu ltut all 00.11 (nnUliiir. waliliiL- 111 the tab'e and this Is changed. all outside work was quite commonly Theie wns also 11 lib. rty ullnwu! the done by them, und the valet de diamine bonne a lout falre not found In a Imust - lu-iiu n reiTiibir f..iitiire. the feilime i i' 11010 in owier l oiuiiries. rrii men sue is Sen that tatl pole over there? When ' the way. ph-.i-ant Sunday afternoon. they need us In 11 hurry they hnng out f - ni Mme. IMmond Itostnnil lias ..t tt,.H pluck to run n big boat like ' three lights and We waste ho time. We uinge of her IdeaH Iii nil things: ; t. ,Z.e VI. here. We've worn out ! charge to cents for the night and winter s ally In matters of dress. The tVl, ,0,,tH nnmed l.lzzle, you see, but j trips Instead of live. sque toilette which I IIIV1 I'm still on the Job! ne day last July "Don't you want to see my lint?" "I was something between a ! , , , sivt,.(.n neoiile nut In n boat alone , Mrs. Cox's face lights up with hoMiltnl- wii 1 tnl u dinner dress of tho 1 u.1(, ,M(. squall struck us out of a ty as she leads the way through the 1 in- noi in. ..1 . . , 1 i(,,,,u. y, t was hard enoiign to man- ' noatnouse rmuiini witii ticra or green 11... i.,...i inn I MioiiL-hi I'd liave a rialntnl ovfiturneil canoes. Above Is imlirdrcKs wns made of 1le.11 ' . ,H ,.K,,0!,j )llt j K, the dancing Hour Willi Its bllllnrd table i ll'llli'tl).!" llllil I in iiiilt. iuose ... . ...... older. ' i" tons. the automobile road through the park. Then thero ure tho campers on tho other side who must be looked nfter, from their milk nnd rolls in the morn ing until evening, when they climb, . . . . . .,,.,.,...1,.. f i,,dv'.s neat In appearance she may dress ns maid quite as often as chamber maid. s1"' '' l" '"'t stauii.-.l with the 1 ...v..- .l.,u.n In .lw. unelfll s.-ll'e where hntlgl' of servitude UtllcSS sill' WVar-H 111 an Kngllsh household of correspond-' ''"I', which many nowadnjs do not. I Ing size, two, and even three, women , Mi renvoi', the limine is 11b n'llled with servants would be kept, n single m.itd. , '"' Kenes to a mm h grenter tin. bonne n tout falre. or general. Is M"t than Is allowed servnuts of other tho rule, nnd In families where one ser- coiintrlis. Mnile will take pari in the vant Is kept with the Kngllsh the feuinu ' 'onvi'i'nuilim going mi vvhi:,. she vval.s de Journee sutllces nbrond, her Journees " '""I '"'r may even be, not occurring mare than "nee or twice "s,it'(1 "nl1 lv,' without the slightest ' week. The nblllty to do With less ialil " 'ays iioeinuy iqq.eu service nrlses partly from the greater simplicity of Krench furnishing, but , " - ' """ 11 1 1 suppose It never does to get excited here nnd tney orten nave nances, .vns. , reguriieii nnroau, silent, unn oi liiii.'ii puppies and iiotileri'i wJit;(i vj(i h(Ui uiup (,nM,,nKerh' live.s Cox explains, unlocking Hie door of her she service, the "running on i -iije 1 iff the llgiire It seemed ( !4ll:,, " . own dnmnln. wheels'' slnndaril exacted In a well ' trlorilleil Jumper dress. w a , ,.rh,a ,H wiiy h many entities upset, j "It Is beautifully neat and shipshape English household, every one mil !."".. . .'.'J!.'!'. ... ..1 . ... V. hecau.se the people lose their heads. 1 with Its celled walls like the cabin of n but the com of such nn upkeep Is by guests und visitors, b iving 11 keen e.ve fur ,w lint mil) be left in tin candle stick after they are gone, but she does led ask for gifts M Ni w Year's her . 1. n i.r,t.. u,.r,. inn iin i.teif Hum 11. ,iit nun ..nil (is in hgyptliiu blue mousseiin.' ; . . . ,nyM.lfi 1 -Th,. Weowna Club keeps. Its boats 1 nMo from the spirit In which housework I lie nunc w.is pillllin witii .i . ,.,,1 vlir.il her., nml Ibev often IlllVe llnilCOS. .MlS. t reL-uriled nbfniiil. S lent. Ilnobtlll- olled to do admlies, I1e111u.se the people lose tlieir ne.uis. j with Its celled walls lllie tne cnnin 01 n 0111 ine ensi 01 sucn nn iqineep is 11111- I Von have to know lunv to meet a f well snip. Hut the kitchen ha ,1 wntto mioreil n quite unnecctsnry extriivagaiue 11 win ti row vou as tiulck ns any- uorcelnln sink and all the latest cull '! the visitor to Kngland thing VS'o pick them up lute every nary short cuts 111 tne wa 01 ntenniis. 1 ue limine a 10111 nun' ons n mucn tilUHlmi ItlaHHOnC L reatU 1-1 liuraer ure mnn tne ringiimi generui woiiderfnly supple that It fell n-:il lolds when I'lingbt In nt tb ri folded sash in. nut 1 ttle 1 helm . .ti whii'h ri. ini,l,,t. tlln lllllli Utl.S eooi. 1 tulle in a peculiar shade of always listening for cries for help. iirbe, transparent. Very many put'ing out tno iiguis in our BEAUTY IS POWER For a Clear Complexion ii.i in tlr summer It scciiik to me I'm "I do a I f work here'' she enn llnucs, "for I have seven to cook for,! Her hour nre lcnger, her liberty to go. Mr nil ,'l.lr, fur Full Me .lur. inn mil the sleeves were long "One night last summer jusi tus 1 wasinriutung me men, 1 hum'iii hii- enn- nut w snn-uui) tinmen m n un omen k.l.jjjaim iviAMur al i umnvj v.vj, .' " 7. I ...... 1.... nn, iipiitu in our (lnt above' ilren. Nobodv but Nigger hero." Tho I month, and nerluins a little, nrumcnadu ill I'lMl.d. .V. V. s (Tarriei,5 People are eager for furs this year earlier than usual, and the liking for extreme styles, as exemplified in our imported models, is veiy positive. Fox, the standard fur that has long found favor, maintains its popularity, and our assortment is exceedingly fetch ing. You may be suited with sets of various colored Foxes, or have your choice in the rare Natural Black, Silver or Blue, also in the Cross, Kitt, Taupe, Red, or the Black and White. Hudson Seal Coats in the new effects, in combination with Fitch, Kolinsky, Skunk and Ermine, meet all require ments both as to price and individual taste. Auto Coats, for men and women, in all suitable furs at a wide range of price. Particular attention yiven to rcnwtlcllinu of furs to conform to the present day styles. 384 Fifth Avenue Tclephono Greeley 2014. Hctweetv35th aid 3Gth St.