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11 NEW EVENING FROCKS UNUSUALLY BEAUTIFUL Dance Gowns and Materials With Trained n 1:1,1: .oit iioyt iih.i.m:iiii. IT would take a French Juuin.ill.il In wi,- adequately ubout tlm now -ason's evening frocks. Tho x M nito textures, colors and trim tu ... i' i.l for rhapsody, und only n lruiiclinian ran clip his pen In rainbow ii ,-i and wrltu Impassioned poetry mt velvet and satin and skirt drapery . (I bodice folds with utter, glad aban d r.i Angio-Suxon chronicler halts n f.. nnmoiicly upon tho outer bouti imiv of mode description: but your I -,-n. hinsn! Well, prolably that has ,. much to do with French supremacy i sule cre.itlon. There is a stimulus p ik irale. Hut, even though the American pen r ,v not hymn the beauties of the new us and velvets and laces and sheer ffs, American dressmakers are Meting frocks worthy of tho mate- i put Into them, nnd perhaps that's u ,.ie to the point. Ore doesn't have to spend much m iney on an evening frock If one Is. not ti .med to do It: but If one Is so In .: nd honp la! The way Is open. Twenty-tlve dollar a yard for a bro ride does i.ot seejn to stagger the woman who wants a stunning Moycn so owning gown, and though the eth- of such gown buying In the.o war times m.iy be debatable. might be di latable even In piping times of peace, the merchants have the Roods and a urprlslng number of women soem to rep the money. When one adds to the t i-.M-.tile kinds of costly fur and a liberal ? ipply of real laco nnd a fashionable drr jsmakcr's estimate of the value of b-r ervlees, one nttaln-s a sum total tni'irr appalling to n woman whosi cnl- ,.,iuon nro directed chiefly toward f rving omelets with eggs at CO cents dozen, However, there's this to bo said for te rstravag.ince. The gowns are usu n''j lK,iut,ful, which Isn't always the e with the most extravagant of a ason's modes. Tho prevailing slm p of .Ine lends Itself to the success n' riih and beautiful stuffs as well as i simpler frocks, nnd at Its best, at i'io better of Its two extremes, one might iv. this winter's evening frock Is an a-trn-M.vp thing. In the first place, one must make a r!'i, nctlon. There Is the evening frock and there is the dance frock to be worn In tlie evening. There are a hundred of 'be dance frocks to one of the more f irnial models, but these formal eve ning frocks have multiplied since last ve.ir. are multlp'.ylng still. Save on the dowager, a trained gown was exceed ingly rare last winter. This season the train Is more assertive. Ono sees It In re, there, everywhere, side by side iv ih the shortest and modest and most outrageously frivolous of dance skirts, and it is by no means nlwnys a feature of very costly frocks, though the richest of the materials nuturally yield amiably (o train treatment. Tlroadly speaking, the modish, formal evening gown divides Use: Into two '.a-es. One shows a normal If laigc waist ine. a very low cut sleeveless hoillee that Is exceedingly diaphanous, 'f it exists ill all. above the bust; ii draped skirt that for all its gracious flowing fulness manages to preserve a .inging silhouette, and a rather short trim pointed or scpiarc. Ve-r often there is a flouting drnprv of m.illne or lace or net falling from 'he shoulders or dcrolletnge line In the K. and the cleverness w ith which this picturesque note Is added Is the test ef the designer's skill, often, too. the rain Is merely a Moating breadth of siicii fllmv drapery or of n net or Inco "i no. and the foundation material of the frock does not trail. There Is sc. pe in such n frock for 'rrm grace ami charm within limits 'i conservative; and tho average woman will look better In a frock of M s ivpo than In the short fluffy dance fr ., k. though she might not foot It so ' gluly with the train and the Moating draperies to bo considered. The pink brocade of the large cut was a successful model on the.-i- rcflncd ind conservative lines, texture, color, l'n' nnd detail ull combining to form a 'inrninnlotis whole that held not a sug gestion of tho bizarre. The material was a very supple but, rich silk of the ;d gi'Sgia,ln class, brocadl at ruber wide intervals with a convention i".7.ri floral design In silver; nnd tho niost delicate and falryllk of silver "pa was used for draperies and trim m-ngs. Th'.se richer silks silks that h-iiigh very supple have more non-y Inn those to which we have been no e 'tomed of late - are gaining favor, a "i ng to be expected In view of the fact ' I' skirts aro widening at tottom nnd 'earning to Mare. Whether we shall "er get back to tho silks that "would s'and aline," which wvre the pride of our grandmothers hearts, Is doubtful: but it does scni probable thnt richer and heavier silks will havo their m n'ngs before fashion's pendulum swings the other way again. Fnllle, bengallne, in ire are already In tho van. Silver lace, which plays an Important part In tho pink brocade model, Is very generally used throughout tho province of the evening frock. One sees com paratively little gold save In certain very rich brocades, but silver Is every- if ' V Green satin. J Formal Costumes Made of Exquisite Dainty and Wonderful Trimmings Models Popular This Season WllfrO Silver I li r. nlntli rt ..11..... . v.Wh. V. . 0IIMI) rti, ii Salon, fcllvcr net. silver broemln 11 I. lovely with nlmust all tho light evening miuucs, out it is much used with black too, flesh colored inntlopa n,i i,ri,.i,, silver entrrlne Ini of tho bodices of black evening gowns. 'ii urn iiuiry short frocks of mile, chiffon. Ac, silver lace of a dainty but effective sort Is much In evidence, nnd narrow bright sliver gulon edges frothy tllllu llounces and tnnlps illi..i,if..iii. and Is at its best when It outlines cross ing draperies or tunic llnni im,i,.r outer veiling of the tulle. Tiny bright 0,1,1-1 roses are tuoueu in hiv nnd there among tne plalte.l or frilled layers of tulle with good effect, and sometimes a whole deep girdle Is of silver gauze or supplo cloth of sliver; or possibly tine, silver lace runs across tho square cut bodice front under nartlnl tntln vpUinc.. nnd forms tiny sleeves, nnd then ap pears again on tho bottom of tho short skirt hnlf veiled by tulle, flounce r tunic. ralllettcs aro also In high favor ngaln and while the nmazon chorus effects of other days are not repeated almost tho entire frock Is somctlmeM f.K.iiinn.1.1 of net solidly covered with mother of pcan or jet paillettes. Ono llreek look ing mlel is Indeed made entirely of this rtnllw. 1 ... .. ... .. ... ,nMii cioin. anil us milKV opalescence draped In classic folds. niiuoiii a vesuge or oilier material or trimmings beyond a trifle of softening mallnes alout the ilpcnllpi.-,e,. ..,1 i beautiful without being startling ' or spectacular. Other uses for the paillettes are found In the broad girdling band of certain Moyen Age models and the culrnssllke sheath of other models on the same straight lines. This, does vmimi n bit like the first row of the nm.17.nn chorus, but properly handled the ffet Is far removed from such association. The black gown of the large picture docs not belong In the amazon line, it docs noi even recall the Jet pallletted ad venturess of ono time melodrama. It is a cown of reL'nl ilh-iiltv richness, a gown that cUher the young macron or tlte matron of riper years always provided the years have not brought curves too ample might wear successfully, yet It has a Jet cuirass holding tho straight yet clinging black velvet robe. There. Is a train, .mil ilu.rp Is rather more than tho usual Moyen Age Maro about tho feet. A stately and elegant gown this, such as has been exceedingly rare In recent years. Instances of this sort might be multi plied Indefinitely. Wonderful metallic brocades, supple as charmcuse. are made Into evening gowns, depending alto gether upon lino and color and texture for their effect, and reed only by a lino or two of fur. Stunning things are done with black velvet and crystal. The less expensive satins and crepes are made up on formal lines too; but (1 Greek frock of chiffon. It Is In the dauco frocks that one can i'i.i cffi.ci nt verv little pxtiensc. It l.s easy to spend a great deal for 11 dunce j frock. Superposed layers of expensive 1 lnce, chiffon, tulle, dainty embroideries of crystal or sliver, foundations of sutln, ; mnko a frock consummately simple m appearance cost nn amazing sum; but on tho other hand materials by nn mnnxn pvopnslvo cm ho made Into very attractive dance frocks for rca-1 ...-nt.f r. nm.,nu Tlln flmlllCPll Of fOll . SOUltUlC tlltl',ui.l - - tunic skirt eleinandH no such artist handling ns the draped skirt of tho trained gown, and provided the little frock Is fresh, pretty In color and on ac cepted lines It will pass musler, even though It Is a good el ml like thousands of otherj and has no especially notuble feature. Tlio satin or velvet overbody or basque --one gives the name basquo to any of the elongated wnlst bodices now. though originally It meant only one type and that type has passed- -v.lth Mounced or tunlo skirt of sheer stuff Is epidemic. The style Is nn attractive one nnd often permit, the using of old party frock material with Ihe addition of tho ovcrsklrt material or of basque ma terial. And after all tho Idea Is not so monotonous as one might think; for much variety In detail Is possible. Tho overbody may end nt the wnlst or may descend over the hips. It may fall straight or b? draped loosely about the Hguro or pinched In at the waist. It may have n narrow glrdlp or a wide girdle or no girdle nt all. The neck may be V shnpo or square or round, though the square decolliiage has first place. It may have no sleeves nt all or short sleeves or long, tronsparent sleeves. And nlwnys tnern nr um little touches of trimming, tho p'aclng of a rose or the lino of silver or tho trill of lace. The evening bodice most genernlly accepted this season Is, on tlm whole, not particularly graceful or becoming. Thi' square elerolletnge which It gives Is rather mop becoming thun tho long favored V. but the way in which II Is obtained leaves scmethlng to be de slrpil save when very well bundled. Ah a malt-r of fact It Is likely to leuvo considerable to bo desired even when skilfully hapdled, tor the or M rangenient Is usually this: A width of material draped glrdlewlse but very loosely around tho body below the aims and drawn up Just t0 cover tho bun curve; nbove that it negllglblo quantity of transparent or semi-transparent ma terial, u shred of mallnes softening the top of the drapery: other shreds over tho shoulders, no sleeves nt all. That, of course, Is tho extreme ver sion; but though the upper part of the bodlco is treated vnrlouly nnd can be alt igether unobjectionable, bj virtue or underlying thicknesses of chiffon, the swathing g.rdlo cfTrct Is alwavs the same'. A little frock pictured here Illustrates the type and has a good thai of charm !ecaiisn of l.s daintiness and exquisite coloring. Its shoulder strap too were effective, three overlying, full, narrow frills of tulle running up over each shoulder and standing up butterllv wise. Another type of dance frock has the straight transparent tunic of net or lnee falling over 11 clinging robe of satin whose closer outline shows softly through the transparent material. Sometimes the underrobe Is trimmed in gleaming embroidery or flatly ap plied silver lace. Sometimes It Is plain and the trimming Is applied to the gauzy overdress, heavy bead fringe or embroidery lielng set on tho hem to drnw the folds straight. The same straight lines are used for frocks almost altogethpr of satin or othr non-tranpnrent stuff, a sleeveless straight wnlstless tunic falllng'over a softly fulled skirt of chiffon or net or lace. Then there Is the simple girdled bodice with Mounced or long tunic skirt, on which Innumerab' variations have been played without robbing it of charm. Three accordion plaited Mounres of chiffon, ejeh bordered with a band of satin, and n little deep girdled bodice of satin make a pretty frock. Or there may I n many floun'ced skirt of net with a slnsle ros-bud tucked under flounce edges here nnd there In enre fully careless fashion, or with each flounce edged bv narrow silver galon or narrow velvet ribbon. Or there may be a deep tunic of fine soft lae-e falling over n flounce of lace or tulle which l V tided by a line of tiny roses, lines of roses appearing on the lodlce'ns shoul der straps In the middle of ruches of lace or tulle. An all nround full tunic or Amm." sk.rt. one with fulnes shirred frankly around the waistband. I not hemming to nry save the very slender figure There Is no dodiir.g that truth, and tb fact account" for the Insistence upon the deep hip girdle In spite of freouent assurances from fashion oracles that If Is quite out of style. Kven a stout woman cat) we.ir a carefully draped hip glrdl better Hum he can wear a skirt fulled all around the wnlst, There are many of the boldly fulled skirts, however, and erHur s-jme day people will have growp'sa familiar with the outline they eiffer that even n stout woman wearing one will not strike he observer as a I'urloiis spectacle: hut tli.it time Is nut jet. The piquant little models in velvet or i- velvet and taff"'n with short bodl.-es pinjhed in n little nl the w.ilst and vcrj full short skrts call for h piquant wearer, but given the right wennr th.y hi'VC, a quaint old new fashioned ch.lrm. There ;.re. by the way. a goed ni.vv velvet dance frock of ine kind nnd another, some of them very pretty and becoming, but none of them seeming quite- so Milted to their purpoe as the thlnnen' nnd daintier models. Occasionally one -ees it short frock of softest crepe or satin or chiffon made on lines purely Oreek. trimmed only with some fine tracery border design in silver or gold or crystal and held 1 1 O'o figure by cords of the same gold or silver or crvst il. The Idea has nothlnir new about It, but It offers an Ideal dance model and evidently the designers ap preciate the fact. TOY SOLDIERS TO THE FRONT. SoI.DIllllS' caps, high and braided; tho potential mar of drum and the complacency of tin soldiers, scream of fife, the glitter of musket and of sword have com" Into their own again. The toy shop Is full of them. The other toys havo gone meekly back Into the lowly or very high, dimly lighted nooks more suited to the dull ace-outrenients of peace. Woolly sheep neitlo .ig.nnst each other far back on the shelves. The character dulls, have retired to a top shelf, licturn books have been hus tled Into an alcove. Tho humming of mechanical toys, winding and unwind ing at a very great distance from the heat of battle, becomes only a muffled and soothing buzz.. Mven tho sporting goods are awuy off somewherii In tho other room. flrenl rocking horses prance frantically for lack of exercise. Sleds llo In far off corners. Skates uro In their boxes, not even thought of. Militarism reigns supreme. Tho very floorwalker has a martial air about him, as he turns upon his heel or stiffly waves an arm. Ho asks a sales girl to step forward, ami amid the din of the buttle, which roars about us his words sound strangely like "For ward, march!" The battle Is tremendou. it Is waged by land, by sca, In the air nod under the watei Tho lighting Is close. The air IS tenso with suppressed excitement, horror and thrill. It Is terlous busi ness. If you do not see the lighting, hear the roaring and the groans and the cheers, feel tho unspeakable glory of it nil, It Is because you have grown too old to remember what It Is that these chil dren, who cotno silently In to look ut the toys, aro thinking; or perhaps for a moment tho shop Is cleared of children and tho b.itlln has Mopped. For only by tlio splendid strength of the wonder anil Imagery of these children's thoughts aro set In motion toy Instruments of war, on their shelves and In their cases, and battles, more dread and dire and delicious than any gone before, are waged. Crafty siilimailne, manned with mysterious crews, o--omethlng akin to mermen, glide under the surface of the water, resting there, dusky lengths upon the weird se.i growths and aienac Ing nt every turn tho llnest dread noughts of the fleet. (Jreat gray ominous looking mcn-ol'-war till up the harbors of the enemy with their bel llgere.nt bulk, and trndn censes and people starve. Airy winged aeroplanes dart about and leave nothing on the earth below unpercelved or unlmpnlred. And on tlio land millions und millions ofmen are mustered and marched to Moycn Age the fiont; not one detail is furgulli n. Illlt if you lire too old In tememlic! the splendor nnd the vlvi.lnes of the thought you may possibly see only .1 quiet toy shop on a crisp aiiiuma morning, with many children .'ismng in shyly and saying very little, and a giv.it many women pottering .ibout and look leg at thing and talking them over, and you will surely notice that the place ts well tilled Up Willi soldier bo tnuketry and military paraphernalia of every kind. There .ire gre.it shallow boxo tilled with tin soldiers inarching g-illimtly to war with musket on shoulder or mounted triumphantly on chargers whose dainty feet pranro eternally and seem to you to stand still. "Seems to bo a groat many of soldiers this time, ""hloe," siys a very small and solemn voice. It comes from the Very sm-ill buy. Hie smaller of the two, whom a good old bl ick I'hloe l following about the shop 011 one of their lout of Inspection. Ii appears that the two ale David and llrnce, and D.ivld Is the very small one, really very small indeed. It also ap pears that these tours are half jearly affairs, and that the fall visit is of much greater Interest than the spring In spection, because the birthdays of Bruce and David both como In October and the things which the toy shop falls to yield up In time for those great days must surely como for Christmas. For hours; they rev.ew th w stock. It Is a sacred duly, a beautiful privilege No dressmaker from Old Ilomevllle evtr Velvet and taffeta. m ill gown of jets and black velvet 'nspictcd the show windows of Fifth .1,1 line modiste shops with greater nc of duly ami ivspotis.ijlllty than David and l'rtici- exhibit toward the lltw stock of ciu'li returning season. Two severe and cldtliy people arc walling for their ihaiige at a neighbor ing counter and they wat h the little party pass. Intent on Its mission, I'hloe close at Its heels. Says one: "Such a mistake cwn to slum- mcse miliary playthings to children! I ,1111 sure you agree with me, Maria. Why. I would rather see deur Utile Kdwln fall down anil hurt his dear Utile body than have his precious Utile mind tilled with the siiggi stlun of such evil. I took dear little F.dwiu to the peace parade and tho sweet little fellow laughed and clapped bis hand, ln thought It was so lovely. No Indeed, 1 should as soon think of wearing a military collar on my own coat us of bringing lit tic Kdwln In lure." .lust here tho salesgirl comes back with the change and the. package. The largo head and the wooden standard with wheels of the woolly dog within defy brown paper to conceal lis un gainly shape. Ily this time the little party has rcnchul fresh fields and pastures new. "Hut what Is ii Uhlan, Chloe," asks David. He Is up on his toes, his very tiptoes, the attitude of extliine adoration In the very young, staring at the dressy p sol dier suits, consisting each of a hat, a front, some appropriate weapons and the name of the genus to which it all belong, which cover each side of 1 Very post and pillar In the toy shop. i'hloe with difficulty focuses her dark gaze upon tho suit In question, The front is blue. Tho hut Is a black helmet with a while tase dangling from Its top. No other suit has so fascinated David. All don' know thnt Ah can lightly say. honey," says Chloe, after trying It with glasses on and with glasses off and with glasses pptchrd on forehead. "Hut Ah'm eiicllned to think It's one o' them folkses what's flghtln' over im iho other side, honey. Ah don' blccvn 110 .Mcrl cau .Mijer has any sech name." With tho battle raging around them they puzzle out how to play the new war game whoso men are little paper soldiers -t Into pegs. They search carefully Into the construction of tho gnat in w forts, manned with large doll soldiers' mill armed with cannon. Hero Iiulcd Is .something worth while. I en. says i ute in isivij .in nn-. Set fori 11 one 01 ine ooor mi iimiie, 1 shall ask for a fort and a battleship and maybe 11 submarine." David Is a trllle tired and his small nnd suleinn veilco sounds smaller than ever us ho echoes, "I want a fort too, and all :hose things what Hrtlre wants, but, Chloe, I phase, want to be a I'hl'in, I'-.nit 1"' , ( v ' I '11b ii v ' av fhl , , 1 1 tin v ' 1' b' cioi if In 1 1 id Hum T! ly lnv mkfn sj long that they arc h very last oiks imp, and with and a gown of pink satin brocaded in silver. the closing of the door the battle censes to rage and a very quiet toy shop, with more war toys than usual. Is left behind. The character dolls relax a little, nnd the frightened sheep dare to stand alone on their black and brittle legs. THE CAT AND THE COLLAR. uQ I'KAKINO of house cats and tho more or less hard lines they must undergo while pursuing the metropolitan life," said a Harlem Chiffon and satin. man, "ono owned by a friend of mine In Manhattan avenue got It In the neck not long ago in a manner ns painful as It was fatol. "Tills cat was a tine largo Angora and the lady thought that a handsome collar would add to his appearance, so she got one at a cost of about $S, The cat w.is ir.U live times as much, so that was riiought to bo a fair prlco for his collar. Well, It was put on and the cat didn't like It a little bit. not being vain of his beauty adorned, Hut ho couldn't get It olf and the lady thought he would be all right as soon as he got Used to It. "Hy next elay he was not chafing much under the collar, so to speak, and by tho third day lie was quite calm. Hut that was the fatal day, for still dls-.ri I'i'd ne made sporadic efforts to releas" hlinsel" and finally he got hU lower Jaw undur the collar and thn when he couldn't act It out he began to spin around instead of keeping quiet and giving somebody a chance to loosen the collar. "There were only women In the houso and they got scared as the cat carried on worse, and they phoned for tho police and there was the dickens to pay aj that doomed cat spun around with his Jaw under his collar nnd not letting anybody get near him. Finally tho police arrived, but It was loo late then, for the cat had gone Into tits nnd was past help when help came. "The police had tho collar oft' In a minute, but except for the looks of the thing they might as well have left It on, for the Angora hnd passed over. Which goes to show that feline as. well as human creatures ought to keep their wits about them." CHILDHOOD MEMORIES. "I HA VIC found in my Investiga tions," said ono Interested In the study of psychological phenomena, "that for a man to recall incidents In Ids llfo when ho was four yearn old Is the average limit of memory, nlthough I have met persons who claim to bo able to remember events In their lives ns far back as when they were two years old. I know that I have a vivid recollection of several things that must havo occurred when I was not yet three, for tho printed record of events that wero contem porary with that time provn It by association. "Ono of these trivial things that T recall was the reference of a kindly old lady to my first pair of hoots, which hart red tops, a fashion brought In by a certain class of men who were laborers on a railroad which wns in course of construction a few miles away. "'You look Just like one of the rail roaders working up yonder along the river,' said she to me, "And I can remember the quizzical look on her face as plainly ns I saw It thnt day sixty-seven years ago. I was; not yet three years old, anJ Just then was the time the railroaders wcro work Intr up along the river. "Hut the memory that recalls event earlier than the four-year-old period of life Is rare; In fact, It Is phenomenal," MITTEN MONEY. SOMRTIMI'lS when tne. weather fa very cold and the pilot boat la rolling In a heavy sea off tho Am brose Channel lightship tho old pilots will think twice about tlm precaiiou ride In the small boat and the icy, strenuous climb up the ship's side on sea ladder. ' And If he does think twice about It the old fellow may give one of the younger pilots a chance to tako his turn, Shuuld this bargain be concluded In th" snug cabin the younger man re eclves, besides the regular fee, tlm sum r I. nnd llils is ca eU inilten money.