Newspaper Page Text
THE SUN, SUNDAY, AUGUST 29, 1915.
i i i h k h m i t 1 1 m i 1 1 it-i i i x w a k n.ixi rs T v a ;rx rx n rv j x ;r x
111 I - JL X J X 11 l A a s A J a y x a. a. a. vx i -s TV . x. A -- j a J j. . a. -- . w - - - - - - - - - a xy
GERMAN AGENTS ' U. S. WAR GOODS NOT
PUZZLE BRITAIN ALL UP TO SAMPLE
With the Italian Army, Slowly Driving Back the Tenacious Austrians CALLS RUSSIA'S CAMPAIGN
"PRICE OF DARDANELLES''
Moscow Editorial That Interested London Says Present
Sacrifices Are Worth It Loyalty to Allies Means
Common Victory, Writes M. DoroshewiUn.
Englishman 8nyi Country III Some shells Won't Kit (funs
Alive With Spies Despite
mill Ammunition is
SECRETS BY WIRELESS
a MrlilM naarohanl jut arrived i
London mM mMrthw that ,h'" ,m"
ii ii. .f Hit- QtWH spy ayo 111
fingiand i i ttio short imnwHow
gvn dm tiKn ..f it, mn one ejgsv
..I it. Ho eaid. but the Ilejeeaper
.in- kepi ninet on ""' SUO) '
am average of om Qormgn spy is ar-
reeled i v. iy ill) , tried and executed.
T1. fact, however, doc not seem to
tMttfr I hi condition. Iltigland. appar
rhtly I" With agent f the Qf
man Uovtrnment But it is not this
which cauae most astonishment, it i
the I. i.t that by some IMtM mem ,
igenta art gndoobtedl) aide to keep In I
punatanl I ouch with th.-ir Saaveritmenl. ,
supplying Information which la not eve:
k: on :i 10 ll
iMihll.' iii ir, iit Uritain.
I'm nslano' . save this liiliirmani. in
nonuilete weather reports reach Wii
hfimatraaaa In aomia roundabout
nevertheleass rffectlv a.t,
. ilr Han. issued " seers I
b the Ad-
m!i ilt to
MMWlM shipping, are know.i
In tlermany well as to the i.ngtisn
kipiieis. The location of various Itn-
portam warahouaaa when- huae quanta -
H.m t ,MMM MM lieu :ife Nil, ted lite III
line mvsterlou iiviiitier tranamitted to!
the lierman war ortlre. and In due MM
rTe t.vc use ia made of thent.
iroriiialltMt li Wireless.
"Of course. ' he ad". "there 1s but
one mc.ina b) which Much Information
..in i. ittahad and tranamlttad. it la
by spies. And further. It la certain.
when the character of the Information
oughl and obtained :s eottiMgrad, thai
these spies. '-. some of them at least.
niuM be ll personal touch w.th the most
Intimate worktnga of the ovarnmantal
depart menta And once gained, then- M
ulivlotial.v but tine means by which tf.i
information can ba sent to Qartnany.
it is by art rale aa
"The authorities are
there is ona or poeelbts
convinced that I
tatlona located n London for thkJ jwr-
pc-sr. The theory I" ndali.-,"l that flies..
st ill ins are. to put it In one way. CO!"
laiialble, thai is, tin- aandlng apparatus
i an la- hOteted and lowered on the roof
nt leme building -it will, it is protab);
PUI up at nlgttl and taken down hi thc
daytlme. Of oourae Scotland v.ird, thi
parrel aervice men of the Qovarrunant,
the people thamaelvaa i vary one. lu
abort, is ott the lookout for an a nam)
wi;e!es slut. mi. The search has !cc':
gftlna on sin.-, the war ticttan. Hut it
has not been found yet.
lt t one thing to say that the tlet
ni.ins pet dally weather reports from
K gland, and ia another to prOVC th
rtiitement, of rouraa. Hut examine the
:i t- Kver) BopnoHn raid on the Nil"
lind has hern made under weather cm -dlttona
favorabal to the invaders. Tha;
ran me.m but one thiiiK .wrather Infot-
liny of I'uu tor lliilil
Take the la"' big n
thick fog served as
a to the attackers
uch or foi tri ss to .ii
id. for installer
i better protec
than did SVel
. soldlera. Th.
t homii dropped proclaimed the im-e-
etice of the enemy. The Hritish aero
nauts were In the air shortly afterward.
Rut the;, were helplega. They were so
helpleaa. In fact, thai IH Zeppelins did
great damage and aoi .iwav saTeiv arhlle
on,- or toe i;r.ri..tt ae
While trvi to make
"And speaking ' this raid, the Wi
Off, .. as UBUal, toid of the deaths and
the wounded, bul not of the property
damage or the number ol Reppellne par
llclpatlng. So:te- authorities sa.d thai
there were but foul machines, it is
more prolaeble, however, that there were
eleven and thai lliev did their work In
two aquadrons almultaneouely (,ne
squadron choatt the strongl) dafonded
Hun. in i. i hi nthei Hheerneaa and South
end Tin- latter did little damage. Th..-
former dew BI egprcas train ape-d thir-
tv-tiv. mills up the number and created
havoc In the town of aoole (popula
lion 110,000. i
Hir ii was not su much that tjoole
was , itt. iiked, i yuu want significance,
as it was fkje fact that at QoOle was a
vary large warehouaa used by the nov-
tmmtnl for military gtorea. There can
be I Ubl thai the Zeppelins aimed '
f t tins warehouse. Moat of their bombs '
were dropped In its Immediate viotnlty. j
And tin aim, in spite of the adverse!
weathei condltloos, was ! good thai i
l he iMItldllifcs ,,nd contents were com !
l-lete'y deatroyi - .i 1 iss wtii- h must
have been very heavy.
Knew ,r yen; iii Plan Plan
"And there are plenty of other OVi
deneea of the effectlveneaa of the ier-(
man siy system in Kllgland, Just recall
the fact ihnt aums tun ago g Qermaql
alt clean si.,t. mini -aid thai the British
Admiral!) had advised the use ot neutral
rtngi by British skippers. The British
tdnilrali) prompll) enled Ihe states
ment. Hut almost as nromutlv. oniv a
da)'H later, indeed, the l.usltanla
.ami- gayl) Into IdVerpoOl With the Stars
and !; pes of the I naed Stales at her
nasi I. alei a partial admission Was
made by the iovei uitieiit that possibly
snip owners had been advised that the
use of neutral flags was a legitimate
ins. .le guerre.
Hut who informed Herman) that the
Hritlah ship owners had heen so advlaed
long before tin- practloa was actually
herfun '. ion i t,i,. i ;, i in. tn spy system,
Tin o there are tin- code Hubs The
Admlrulty prescribes a different code
n. ig for ttax by coastwise steumers every
day i me da. . thinking a double pre
caution was neceaMiry, II ordsred a
shifting of 1 1 Hi,-, a Tuesday flag
weg io be substituted for a Katurda)
dag. Thai day a destroyer patroling
tin- channel shu u merchantmati Hying
Hi" Tn lack unit tin- collect code flag
'It 1 nmtidt r, wli lung some Infurma"
fin. i'pproa. hid closer and discovered
thai sin- was a Herman boat.
"i i ail ihe rani on gcarborough.
Tin llei'lllUII vv:ii -nips steamed in
ill rough a mine Held, bombarded the
shore, aril :-t d safely out again.
Th. Herman ships carried ihe Hiilon
Jiicl nnd He- rorreel code nag. British
I'lsirovei winch had sighted Ihem be-Ili-Vlll
they wet', llrtllsh rli i pa. To add
i.. Hi. .(.'.'cpi oil ibis ili.-t of vessels
ii i llreil a bt'oudslde away from fgiors
1 1 crt-ati ihe Impression on 'laud Hint
ihry woru Hun ' Heel mduigina m
t re. I n ,oi a .-
I il , I l, ii SOUS I.I V e
I ... M
. .1 I
i i- longuv it- Miss
enuyaon, who died recently,
- I). ninth ve.it. I 'harks
lilt 1 1 r ai ot 1 1 is death, Mary
TH, ah - i i rii.-i laureate
-i 'H A 1 1 Inn V,, Hor.ino mi
HEAVY RALES TO BRITAIN
i Caere taaatffacr fa Tus t
London. Aug. it The lrmndou
lump of business in war material" of
evert- (lew-rip: Ion which is being done
between the I'nlted State and Client
Britain baa brought to London in
army of American rprenttlv of
qomwrnt In Um Cnttgd state deriing
In aTry thing from Hlg shells to leather
booti.. The great majority of the!-!
men are stopping at the Savov
a huh baa be-me the clearing
for all hie war contract.
Here i vary day the rarloui
eentati'es meet ntal dlBCUM
the tiiejllon- nvit vital to
Mont n' thene men adopt i
nlr. nnd apeak to no one
: with whom the have InieineM relation".
Men are here from ammunition con-
earns, staal plants, dialers In rnllltar) ,
aquapmant of every poesiMe daacrlp-.
tion, manufacturers of automobllts ind
aeroplanes, dealers in DOgtl and shoes
fnisi producta, and man) other lines of
While most of these rapraacntatlvts
are memls-r" of the linns for whii-h
ire si-'iiing conlricts. others are
merely salesmen. who ,-ommun i-ate
ever) offer by oaMa nli their home
offleea Thaae are the one" who believe!
thai the fate of Rngland is In their ;
It., il I'lrms llenonoced.
iiiiue contract for woods of e
Varlet) are heltm sinned dally, and in
tlic COUrsa of the dls,-ii""lon" 10 be heard
In the hotels lirieregMiyi facts are r-
. ill which probably never otberw -e
would come to light. Repreeeiitatlves
of the larger American entarprlaga daat
nig in ammuiiltlon and Other war suji-
icies are bitter In their denunciation
rival fit in . Which, they sa. have
greal Injur) to the boelnees Itself anfl
to the avl name of the fnlteil Sta.es
Hire the writer lieanl lor the nrst
time that one bulk order of lOOitgg I
shells supplied by an American maim- ,
facturer was pissed by the Hritlah in-
MMM-tors in the United state. whoM i
duty it is to examine the masls before I
their Shipment and reached the
trenches Iwforc It was discovered that
n..t ona of the shells tilted the puns
Another ahlpment o. .nachlne gun am-1
munition was found to lie 10 per .ent.
defective. The iraged) for which this'
niiirht be reaponalble can easily lie con- '
coived wheri c inMjideriiijf that every !
tenth shot would clog the gun mi l coin- ;
pel the men in attendance to remain
Unprotei led in face of Ihe enemy's lire
while removing Ihe defective cartvi.iKe
In another cat.' it appears that :'.li"
motor trucks supplied by an American
lirni were pagsasl bt MSB Inspectors In I
the I'ni'ed Stale." hut were deliv ei ed I
here In such a condition titat the entire
order was rgjocted,
The fault in these matters evidently j
lies a- mu.-h with th- British inspectors'
as witii the manufacture re. hut it i" j
nevertheless true that the reenonelblllt!
fills upon the litter, atid ronaidernhle I
Injury is done to the entire lusln.-s
it is ttue of course to ,i certain extent
that Britain eannol lurn elsewhere fori
her suppi.es of ammunition, but the rap
reaentatlvea of the loading American
roncetns h.i,e greatly iegr- tte.1 the man
ner in wh.ch other manufacturers have
filled orders they have teeelv.-d.
iteit Tape Cawaae Delays.
no war, the goo! old i .-.I tape 1
stii. reigns supreme in ail negjottatlona
undertaken by any of the Qovernmenl
offices hare and considerable delay Is
oiten caused b) the dtternrlnatlon "f
the Brltlah official to folloa ins orders
strictly to the lette regardleaa of the
issue Involved Representatives of n'gi
American houses dealing hi war suppllei
an complaining bitterly of the delay.
In one case a representative of a steel
concern cabled to bis home ofliee re-1
iin .. . . ntiied ate quotation on a
certain product aid mentioned in his
eabl, ge the following Will. la: "tSpeCb
ti.atlon IltO I! I. ll" "II. I. H" rep.
resented an abbreviation adopted here
for "Hoy 1 1 Laboratory Drawing." No;
so .ti ihe mind of the ever alert censor,
who held up ttie message twenty.four
hours and summoned the sender to hi
office to explain t -. meaning of these
three mysterious letters, which he prob.
ahly feared might have bee some Im
porta nl news to h used b) the enemy.
A similar Incident urred to anoth.'
' steel ii anufacturer who used In ids . able
Hie word "elongated." This word prAved
la real puxzlc o Hie censor, who held up
the mssaage utld summoned the sender
to explain tin- meaning of this "code
word." When tiie American exnlalnad
lth.it there was nothing mysterious 'n
I elongated to any one who is at all fa I
nulla:- with lln propertlea of Steel he le
Ihai official very mil. h in doubt, and
was only through energetic represents-
: Hon." that he induced the censor to pass
1 the message
I in still another (hum a dealei In food
product." who is supplying tremsiuloua
1 quantities of piovisions for the British
troops at the front found m-riis of
; measagea delayed because they contained
; OS tes of brand) of apricots, pram, ap
: pies. Ac,, which Iii the mind of the c.i -
I so: surely had some mysterious meaning
t of t air ow n
: Hut despite thsst tiouniis, which arc
all pari of the g:r.e, it is tteverthelesi
tnie that bualnees of linmenae volume
being Iranaaoted in lall) and a great
wave of proaperlty is passing over a'l
those American houses abicb huve he. n
forlunale ei g!i to secure Ihelr sh.ne
MANY NAMES FOR LEMBERG
ih. i.ivIm, l.nlbrad
a ml 1 1 iv i iv miiim
l.vv I In, roil
: i. now n h
. is given
I half a
: hern has
i, Aug i ii Many .ties are
- more than one name, hut l
a. t.-w to rejoice in mote than
dogi ii destinetlve cugnomena.
historic tiullclan n of Lam
heen known at one lime or nil.
oilier b) no less till
i faranl spirals t ions
According to ihe
ancient Hut lu-n an
ware Lwoa . I, wis
llwlw I i in- i : i in in
Ijembt is- la mhurg
' Latin and paeudo
t .vi-ni y -seven dii-
offsi Until tin the
names for Lwofl
called il I ihorg.
l0a Wenliui g ; the
.. t m name" include
i UsotiSi I. n
Luiuburga, leonoH)lli .
v ia. la ... oiy a : In the thil -
teertth centurv n was kJIUWII to the
Hreeks a. Lltbon ami Ufliadat ilie pu
trlurcha of Constant Inople, Alegundrlu
iiihI Jciueulent isferred to ll as lawvloa
and la onlunolll . Hie Turk- all n
lin n hooks llll, IUmj, lllbol, llihow. Ilhi.
d ri Ihe ArnielllailS gave to It the name
m I leaf ths Russians huve lately bap
tised o i. won in.- real name or the
ity. it is asserted, i th.- en .-. i one of
I. now. which lili rally lyausletctl an"
Austrian prisoners photographed
sitting on Italian siege guns they
were rent to discover.
MISER'S WIDOW IN
FIGHT FOR FORTUNE
ti Accept Teniis of
Lravlnff Millions In
HE LIVED LIKE BEOGAH
Sgaefal rerreafMsadeaci le Tas It k.
pAgtg, Aus. is. a legend ins grown
round tin- peraon of the Bpanuih multul
m.r.iotiaire llomagos, whos- death w i"
recently reported and w ho wt the bulb I
of ins Immense fortune
00A, ,.,,r,(.n prelate
t-auiollc Church Hals
l some IIO.MO,. '
of tin- Rom in 1
popularly pretl- '
tied w.th having aflUteoed tiis wealth
by hegj.iig outs de the ohurohes of I
Madrid, where he used to tN seen .it ng
cabbage stump. and carrots
As a matter of fa.-t RomagOS .a. I i -ways
heen a rich man. Ida mother having
7,-ft him large tracts) of land n Argi -Una
atid hie wife, Condra Rabell, daua! -ter
of a well know- ( Madrid hanker,
bringing him a dowr) of li.soo, ii
was. however, a great auser and dressed, I
or rathoC covered himself, .:i a typical
miser's manner, it would not have u -i
surprising if people had given i Im
ty it. t lie alrecta although ii net
stores and aiways Went to Hi- I.i
part ment atorea ie.-ause i.e.,
slot e in fur s. prteas an- marl
plain figures and lie did not risk ii. ing
swindled, a thing he .headed.
His will, which has lust been made
public. Indicates that he wa- p..-- '. .
the rlfheat man in Madrid Nor Wera
his riches of tin- ehrlnkabls kind L'aah,
Treasury bonds ai d i lea- titles to lands
ai d buildings made up his fortune The
Hank of London, the Bank of Prance,
the- Spanish-Amci i. an Hank, the Haul
of Rio de la Plata, th.- Bank of ttpaln
ami ths aataibllshments of Prquljo, Rains
and CalgmartO w-ere his depositor es.
Ona of his bulldinga in Hans is locate I
Iti the Avenue des t'hump Rlyseeo and
." eatltggted as worth $S,S00,f The
Credit Lyon na Is pays an annual rental
of 110,000 for Its branch off..- on Hi-
meaganlne th f this building.
There Is now in prospect a leg i' con
lest for the property of tin, modem
Oaapard, the contaatani being no othet
than th.- widow, who is eredlted with
being almost as minerly ns Rismagov
him- If Mttle Is known about her. hut
it is believed thai mlaerllnaas with hei
is an acquired habit rather than an In
heritance. Romagoa'a mother, who lived
with them, wa even stingier than her
son. She i was who Insisted mi doing
! what might in- t rmad tin- marketing for
the household This consisted of taking
j a beaked and going to the market, where
ocoaalnr.ijly she spent a few cent" for
1 vegetables, bul mope often picked up
j what tin- mail tmen threw away. Ail
- tin--, wen- literally clad In rags
j Soon ait i her husband's death the
widow left Madrid for Harris, but she
hid her I races so well that tin- other
I executor, tin- Bishop of Madrid, has
1 been wholly unable to locate her sia .
I the prelate Just named and tin- Biahops
; of Barcelona ami Buenos Ayres are tho
1 heirs to the vast estate. All ihe actual
I cash and personal proper!) arc w illed to
the ll. late-'. While 10 the Widow Is left
tin use and tin- im om - of all of Ro
niauos's house. , win. h liitl.o it., o ih
1 I Church on her doattS. Much an income Is
: a fortune in Itself, Ion I in- widow- np
, pears to think it too small n "hare. The
Bishop of Madrid announivs that ha
win try to bring he o conaent to tin
will ns it stands, but thai In an) eveni
he Wishes an amicable settlement. So
far his written suggestions have I i
i. nan-were. 1 b) ll'1' widow
GAIN WEIGHT MAKING SHELLS.
Loudon "oM-ietv Women Mm ,ui
on Munitions Has This HsTecl.
laJHifJON, Attg. 1" - Sortie society
a'Olttell Alio offered their services lo tin
' o.V 'i anient and whose capin-ltv for war
work h i had some three we Its teal In
Messrs, V Inkers' far tot y ai Brltli huve
bean racouiitliiH Iheii exiierleiices
Mrs. Molr. Hie wife of tin chlel ol the
n.. Inventions bra eh of tin- Mlnlrtr)
oi Munitions, Is workim on baaes Thin
is turning tin- Iwae of the shells until
ti.cv are of the right measurement and
smooth "There were no dtffloutlea in
the work," she said, "The only thing
is thai the sh Us an hot ami heavy.
Hut.' she added. "W0 dlld tlial we are
putting on weight
Hi tin- saaie department is Lad) Cole,
i ". lowly riatacre, Mrs. Kngliinil a
-ISll'l III I.O
the wile oi
ioi is laid
It ii u,
el tl III!
f the III
1 'i a tt t'oi il, now a '
Is in Bmnaiblu for
m--e of the s'tolls
, t in- correct . it
laid) S ott,
j who no.v o.
toad in tin
Scott s, of
tile laite t.'Hpl, Scott's w alow,
upl " one of tin- apartments i
Court HtaJ n, ,
oleclticnl ilciNirtmetil laid) '
course, know ii a i a sculntor. i
and her trained it
gel - arc now empho ed I
on the s Kilts of Kit
Soon this pin t i. -i
worked entire!) hj
, will he
Work in shifts from it
l '. M . and t !l .:
Mow oi these woioi
i- .i.ii a as latent) i ion
j pia e stundlng in ffg
SO A M
a I' M. f
a' a lay t,vl
mlng old I .
dell. j I
eja1 aL'B' LwK alaw Lwk aats- i sJeiBiW steilsr - iai ffirili Tffaftiajiii
sjH-'- aaBrJllBHa-a Awm Ww-a Jfl aaHaflaVBSysUBl9sdBUhBaH
L.'ves- i eiKgst efjriTarTemaasgieV d I ICtCam Sun
ra . -.-VrHrffMgLaafc Sj -T.s B mf!t
WtKjtVKw&Bf wf '!airgrtsffids9eK LJrYo JB T-vftjHSBBH
HaaSS"'" . ' I m-r&&fv ' ZaMHeNHHet;; tffl&Bm
awawiaC-- . JSaMg,aPsMs1JawsaalgaaEfa
Upper Picture French. British and Russian officers following Italian operations.
Lower Picture Heavy artillery being hauled up a moutuam road in Tyrol.
Parts Fashion, Mobilized and Defiant,
Says Even War Can ft Steal Her Crown
v, - faf ' ei
I'm :.-.. Aug
d: i .-amakoi s ti
tin- tail of Wa
. aoi Sr se, Tin M v
t; Thi op mlng of t
- week has e obscured
'. "a w as a tolil' for spec
lativ nveraatloti The western front
has produced nothing that could w tn
i.:. 1 in- interest, of course, is a -o:u.
mart Nil rather than a purely fash on
aid. ., ,.. for a large common t c,-t
it i.i : t on- o: ..-l,-s, and the apisrur
an e of foceignem here to buy rathe?
than to aall has natural'., provoked more
than usual egcstemeul on accouisl of ths
ruinous to' .lit i f general buainesa for
the last yea i.
Ordinarll) tin- opcrUnja art not held
until after August 1.'.. the .hang.- to
August 2 result list from the almost total
dependence of the trade on Avarlcan
purchases and the slowness of sh pplng
dtt I1' war condition Moat of the
larger houses are open now. Haul Ho. ret
being tic only establishment if impor
tance Which has not kept open at ..'I
Hp-, e tin- war began M Polrel s
mobttlsad alum; w.th inos: of tie men
aim worked uader him, and since the
war t.sik I- iii .wiiv from In" work Ha
only sejce he has Imvii aide to rendei
tin- trade is in orainanf gai with tio- sup
presslon of American iggdemurk thefts
e of th.s n
Tin- Dommlltae In flhai
ter, of which M POirgt is chairman, re
ports i unwid.-ialde luogress a Ihe per
suaalon of New York bouse" to qu I
UaWll Pgrla trademarks wh.ch do not -belong
to Uitin. ami now announces that
the houses alfltintM Hi the anti-fraud
woik will 'tn.- ., lajj expualtlort of
alylee ai New VorB in November, ti
wii' -Ii lime It Is trustist that ail of th.'
traudiilenl dealers will hav, bean I
hi ought round
rforaaftaa. savs M. Poiret, tin- com.
mlttae w-ill devote most of .t- activity
to tin- pursuit of fraajds In Hie chief
HJqropaaii mark -ts, atuj mot- notably to
the aufspraaalon ol th,1 Oerman element j
in the Prenatl rnahtOn tr.tiie. ami to pro.
ventlve meaunires ugalngi a Herman In
vasion of the Paris market Immedlu-tel)
nfl"i the war
I'iit T tin- showing of moil, Is by the-lulls-
of Hallol ffetUrg i: w il In lm
pcaalbte to aenoinlie the uegii n ngs of
the new uimle and : nnty be a fortnight
la tst before tin- s lections hi buiT
stuff It lenll) "s-haki- dow ' so tliat th-.-genei
al trend of the fasha u can In- ttbeo
lutely determined. Ps the preaanl only
scatt' rill Inillculions of a loore Ol less
special character, usually merely the
personal impreaslons of buyers, can tic!
recoribal, I'hotagraiiha will be mil of the
queat'-on for another rortnlgttl at leoatil
and go groat is the SUttplOlOII of spying I
which Hie war and all the straiue tales
i. tin- lutweisjtpetg ahutit Harmati com- (
msratal stiylng iiavs gccentuiied that
I even the nm-ti c o; -', iicweiaier
. on . .por.ih nt w ould not voilturi too
mar (lie t'roul door of any bouse ot. Hu-
Hue de la lilX.
Charles c. Kursman, tin Nan Vurk
dressmaker nnd mlllMer, summarisas
(In impress. i which he h is gathered
during live days i f tireless luspectloti
tin i. Tblrli
"I should say
Winty-two gow ii
I. at houses, which
V mertcii i, n .. , ,-rs.
11 c a. gbOUl
ami as many
ii he rutinln -
t he sly le this
Si n s i oi e.
for t I.t.: minai ion of
year.' he said lo Tin.
spot Id. "Thc-e ate on
nuoul thin .
Ainiiio.tii iiuyei-.: In rr instead
normal Sit Tn- oumbar of
.-how i, j. Ii udina houses Is k'ul
muparalivrl) l - i s.v- that n is
um lUOfS than irmn a third to a lialf of
Ices for foreign buy i s
ii M . ti e model in tkers
rease, w bleb would
Seem lo he a ' i.
St Hie (I- I II Of II
hard timea, becauae there is more ma
terlal h th,- modela, on attounl of ti i
large Skirts, and OecaUSl dress good
ills so h.gh, a ',.:i llttoit due to tar war
Ta. models which are offered f no- are
tuiiy i" ins- cent higher i.i price than
tin ni l ot p i. - for Hie last few year
i no n. anticipate, however, that
thi situation w.ii affect our own prices
favoiabl) i on tin- contrar) l think that
.or prleea at Sea York will be some,
whai lower than hi previous seasons,
part1, because ot hard times and parti.
h. cause the style i itself is ra.-y to
execute duo garments, a:, clement willed
always t, mis to drive nr. t d iwu. Here
conditions .in- bo unusual, trade i" a
such a minimum ami ihe sales are of
so special a ehararter that natural eco
nomic forces haven't the same effect as
"Km the inoine : ii to,, tarl)' to
give any hut tin most general Indica
tions about what tin- final mod,- will i.e.
After I have seen Callot'a collection -m
August i'. I haii have a clearer notion
of ihe situation por the . asent I se
little rharge from to.- standards which
prevailed Imradhttel) beif re this open
lui Ha i l atlH V,. , H ea.
inn. ' one shapis which stiiited om i
the las) week of June win hold through
and dominate tin season Tin hat buy
ng i" almost llinsiii d. of course, ami
many of tn,. principal h it buyers hav
(tore home, iii gow.i i .,. no change
froip the large skin, cut vei short It
colors ami materials i tit noi lemnra
in) Interesting change a.- yet Theau I
modi!, too, appear 'o continue Ihe fir
met- riile tather than t.. depart radleall)
Asked whethet ho Ihoughl Dial an
economic crisis n Prance, due to ihe
long continuation of u., srur, might havi
an Influinci on the poeltlan of Paris in
the mi rnatlonal mod,. Mr. Kursmitn j
replied, "No, I don't think il Would, and I
f u t lis tejriu Th,. predominance of j
Paris in fashionii s due rather to u.-
cunt ami tradition than in anything
tr I ponomlc lite of the city So long
as ill. beat talent Is hen Paris will d - I
reel fashions for the whole world Per- I
i molly I do not think that the mode wm '
saved b) the battle of tin- Marne if I
tin Helm. in- uad taken lha Clt) ami had !
o. nt od it right throush up to now, i.
I no) have tH'cuplcd Rl'Usgrla, th.- -a
j perlorli) of the l-'r.-m , dreasniaket
WOUld I 110 Ml' have surre,., Aftei
Ihe evacuation of the clly and I hi con
ssquenl reeatubllahmciil ..f roinmeroia!
lommunlcatloiia ail buyers would have
come lo Paris lo serl. model.- 'I he thing
which give-. Han- her place In fasninna
Is tin- talent m' th, piople win make
"Wo make dresses, suits and hats bet.
i ter than Ho- Prcnch do, so far ns cut
ting, lewlitfi ami general workmanship
line I'jnceriicd, hut that is not the ques.
tlon. n is easy i nnugh lu measure and
SOW. It m dlftU'Ull and ran- egtc
l ew dress cnueeptlutis f enurae ther.
I are .-om, MHipl in al. IHIUIltrlOS who
have good taati ami a I'ertaltt degri of
: iiinatructive lulenl for designing elm lies
Mini in- atmosphere is lo-kiag oulslda
' Paris for dieHstuaklng, just as ,i is for
paint Ins Here they have the dnvuiiti ma.
th. ii. i, i ton. Hie feeling and the appre.
1 '-at ei ei ear) foi I he real Ion of
gowns. Just as Ihe) h ne lor I lie develop-
instil of tin- hue aits proper, Hucli a
quality cyiids in tin minds nl llie per.
lipid with tin- trade, ami it
pit i ed
Pi I'm i
u -uppo: .- H
should get Inllnll
of His war, 'I'm
qlllls siuipl, iriiiiu
ze In in 1 1
th, number of
pay v"i francs
omen in I
io is able io
s lit ii a dliss
tin- uaual Hat Pi
nr.- rail uloua ) h
defending tin- in
id r.iii from
lands it is tn
m mi,, would
a hatcv : number of
a few hundred, than
prevail In materials
iii of toe turning out
si a. let us s-.iy. at 11
evi n h as The design
iv s, and its sitpe lor
winch win. 1 1 peril
of suits and dret
hundred fi am or
would persist ma
il v w . T
at l.c c ei a e
IS t DC I. OU- W ill,
c .g '.Z,
i hat- al. eady
their mod,;. ate
trman I, Paquln.
:. i n. .1.
tiny, Laxton : I.
iplerre, Bull, .
tiult. M rib
prefers lu wait
tn. d, Is
i f thole
:.i . e i:.: g in drlermlivf w.i.it
,- tendenc) will hi
ICral it a: tv 1, How the s.j.es of
Wii.cn .-am.- afti r t he Rt still a
Iblnks. but it ..- to , carl) to be
about details His own bouse,
s. has , ,i reeled III turning Ollt
io. its A nertcan imyeis Just as
w-- no war di spit- greal d m
M. Redfcrn Is rutting soma of
-i- lo itei ,ii front ami in luck
Iii tn on t aides, which makes f.o
"falling Into points" and consequent!)
for a lets siulihy effect in what the
Preni i dressmakers call the "slthourtti
I - ode:,- will l.e very "discreet." he
esteems, and will tend rathe, in show
I the back H an tin i cast. Velvet w.li be
1 mUl US1 .1. lie t h'.llks
M Ikicuillet holds thai Ihe erg)
I changes ute In ornamental detail." ami
; in corsagi fornta, Purrters und ecu
turlers working conalderabl) In furs by
.. .;. or trimmings state that liters will
he . i... changes dt: to the lm;iossi1 ii;
i .f sscurlng it tain fur., notabl) those
w.-. I cuall) corns from ice L. psii
mirket, such as Persian I mb, far x-
I a. nt... Breiiaehwanxi notably, i-- n ; to
be nail In ail 1 lUata Hie almost total
a. ,,-li -. , f Ruaatau, Italian. ggStnlab ami
Smith American buyers is severely felt,
a. is ,'ni. .-.I the total sbsencs or derman
ami Austrian buyers.
i o Prst
Ira- -li ii-
tl a l
w Voik h
fiiiu a a
s Cil lie of
finished hai bu) ing fa r in
HOW lo aklltl a: gown models. S:i.
ports ihnt ,t tin- bouais of Lew.,
i on Tn hot. c,, orgette. Marlu
Odi He, Uadelelin ami Lucie llama she
found many Interesting, developments of
nirocioln shaiH s
M nc Ni nlle Hroull, who is pguj
I Pullet's sister, esteems I at velvet her, :.
! -n bin :,. i.iii- -od brown very much
j higher on or,s sld than on ih,- ..thrr.
; follow . , i geinmll) Charles tx and
i l.ou.- 'l shape", Will compete i iosely
in. uughoul 'h- season with Dlrectolrc
pat" of a ,o.t, i.ii resembling thai now
1 em:. hot I In men's silk hut. a: d mule
wll a'rrj high crowns and little ilma
With - Iv cr . i- sti. bUCklSS fOI de, oia
HOII sh- Hi. nks Hi, it an, the. latuls
, XVI int. resembling man) of th shapes
ilcplcted Ii; a litem. IU ned up high In
I hack, constructed In all colors ami ma,
I ISrllllH and trlmmCd With a few Howe;-'.
, may sttri iv f
Tie Inrgti shori skirl which came ,,n
or tin prai ileal inttuetice of las) Sep
lemher nugltl isjuiainl) to continue so
lung a- tin- tendency Is against drrssi.
neai and i hulrll of wcarlln far more
suits uiiil h--" n ns than bsfure should
I eon tin tic a long a" the war irakss life
Mme Hroull does nol think, however,
that it in. the nr which (trailed Ihe
large, short skirl, but rather tits tedium
j of having worn loo narrow ski.-ts t m
ling, -'ii ' in.it Hie wai nic ely Insured
'Hu- p ia nam ' ihe fashion. A great
difficulty, shs Insisted, I- tat ol ffniling
ma tcri ia I, Kvsn rilk is high, f ougli it in
not rale 'Ihe larger skirt !in called for
no enurmousl) hrger "upplj of iPess
gondii at a moinnnl when all wcollens
ke a for
-i. itiuf artui r
Hani ti. ;a- Hateelal,
Tin mnnufneturer of d iss goods
h in been unahl la secure Mi raw ma
t' rial .Mill All , , to l,,i, ,,01 ,,ew cloths
i ami uoitscquenll) diewugiksr will bo
wseefsi ' serssgasdsscs fs Tsi si v.
Last SOU, Auk. IS -Tiie edit, noil in I
fVaaSlVSS Vloio if Moscow SMtlnfl folth!
that In Mali, ia Hu-ca was pav ing the
price of the Dardanelles -an article
Which caused Intnl. Intetrst in Urr.it 1
111-. tain -Is translated hetewltii It was
written hy the editor if the Jou nai. Mi.
Hecause Ills paper ha a t iiculatloti of
soma Tun, inj t and Ig generally In Id to
reflect prett) clearl) the ihoughi of the
average olitrn In that locality, the
IhSOl) expreased In the e lltorlal is very
significant The translation follows:
'In these days of trial we must In-
strong minded, calm ami tMHirageous, r
lieflts the t , prcsc utative of a great j
tieopir, of oonqusrors and wsrriors who1
for a thousand y.ats have not only!
bHIItantli defended the.i sxistencs but
have wllrly increasi-il their frontiers alMi
, their geasjsaalona lint, above all. more
impoitaut than every thug In these day.
we must I,,- reasons ble. Lei us leave i
to the f st tils minded sad to,- wea h
kneed to give way to Hi- feel. ngs and
I Impressions, of tn,- moment Pot our
selves, let us be .aim and Judicious.
Injury Vol I rre pn ra tile.
, "I" it an insult to our pi ale to give
up i.wow Lemberg ? v,s. it i.
I we must not exaggerate the importance
of our Joes.
"When ive took l.w w it did not mean 1
that tin- town wa ilelirntely lost for
Austria Now. too. we hav, no grounds
tor supposing that he, luse th. Derma' 4
have taken I.wow hack again the town i
has been deflnltelv lost to us. Theie
are signs that the Austrians. In spits of -
the success of the Herman troops, still
count Clallcls as definitely lost Knt. ring
once mere into possosMon of the ; , -llclan
dlsttlcts, they an- plundering, i
destroying, burning, laving waste every
Vlllaga, hamlet an j town
"Only hostile ten. toi is treated llll
this way, only ten . no that belongs or I
must belong in the eiii .ny
"Take a desert.' they will say. Their
own territory, the territory they are suie i
will remain tin .rs. they do not treat in!
this way. The '.enllory Which must
remain the. is the)' do not Iny Waste and
tui 11 IfllO ll desert
"During 'he eleven months of the war. '
with all its numerous battles, waged
I with changing fortune, two moments
Stand ou; above all olheis. a Ixaxhek
ai d Elbrus stand out above tin- range I
of the Caucasian Mountain.
lien- Mersaaas Palled,
"line WSa tile Ogrman attack on
Prance in the atiinnu The other .- ihe
present attack on Hussts Tin attack of
tn- gieat Dsinwn masses n Pat is j
seemed at the lime to in- vi. to ion., t -
tie rm arts wars only seven te.is from'
Paris, They w-ie in sig-bt of the Kiffel
Towsr. in th, e suburbs where on sun'
day tin Paris people a to amuse tt.. R
"ilie 1 1, -man patrols wars riding
"V.ci remember low we said t n
allies then: Kven the taking of Paris
dm not mevin a dsclslvs victory foi
He-m, n Kvsn tin would nit gtter tha
"Tin- sttack was stopped in t io b II.
Ham victory ,,f the Marne Even allow.
ing due .redit to tie courage and lull-'
U nit bravery of their armlea, out- a'Hes
sdmlt npeniv Hni to a great , stent the)
.we. i the. i i:.to: t the drawing off of
ttei ,uin I loO.s u out
raid into Basl P uasia,
mails a : e poui ag .ill
il. llnsl ott front and a.
liar attack lu he one
Now th, ilia-
makln a situ
Ihcy made on
"Ther Is tins dilfsren a, howet .
they In ve no decisive laolnt like i
i ie and of their way. Th beast
lo.ke.a in an iron oage Hi hurls hi
salt nercel) now t . (his s!d
tnat. ft- lands ih, li,is. bul t a
hungr) beast will Hie la his i
wit-i tne noil cage, wll! die of
and ex'.tausl hlmaalf finm t ..... .,
ami Ml, ngth
Paylua for Uardanellra,
ward in : i. asms way - v, sa'crlfli ad
out selves in aluai Prussia, when w.
forced ihe enetn) lo tum back lo di al
witii us? Banish from you: minds tn.
treacherous thoughts nUoul our allies
i rvau'e our sole i ea 111 Hi. flctll
oi all t o Allien nor Hermuny,
doubt oui nCiSa i ;.i ! a t-.,:t.,i i t
I OlUinoll . ills. You la. Jet fte I',,
v ' . ii . at-, on .'..- j.i 1 1
down I ie
ft a n
Ai I while wt
rdi t - withhold t - f
"im- i a nent) nt tck In Halii-i
.tllie- a., shedding theirs in tin
'a npi 'a tu i t i.- I lar.laiii i:. .
"in ii n:.-., we in. pa) lug foi the l iu
' ': battles in Hnlirla ire n
price 'oi the strait which om alio. are
taking f" ii It Is a heavy price an I
- IM, oil; il o- u.ii -,.-
gre hilling tee rtralt f, - ua :: id
pi Ice, an I hera- mo Hie p i n,
id I Hy oui lighting .a i l a
.a. b) t hi
forced la use ore COlOl
than us US . a leutleit(') winch In '.t
is hot una, i , pi., nl. , Imh-huw of Ihe sob. .
mental lu ' the times Purine, ton,
win tie simpler, acordlni ;, Mine
Droult. There ma) ie -' :,e loni gowt
skills atid .1 faw leal tram-. ..Into ioi-
struvlid a- Wltlgllke pails o autre ,.,
ply in. the older fas ionsd llll del, bu'
ll i probultll tn it tile SllOI'l ska : w '
ill .llmilta' the I 'il. ove. Hu im,
"Suits,' .-.lid Mm, l, mil, 'Mil: ,1,, .
lass have l.ng.- ...it., cul In., the sort
of short ottt.-oai- worn b) Ritssiul sub
diet, win. man) pleats a, Hie loose
slsevss ltd tail Woollens ..f dark
i" In s Ultd SlVCls, w it i . el tu- - tie I.,,,, ..
vvdi ii the predominant matei lis 'I'm re
win piobably lie a laige tlevoloptuei ; of
the use of fur I .mi ti for the Iii ito ii
of tin long coat, in gowns (here un
lae s me use ol the crluollno I'ffi nl llgalll.
I do i it, tiiink Hi it we ahaitl I. at-.i
mllltsr) models, certglni) no m
'l-iabes Joirre , 'robe Villus
laqp ll "it" an I lu , w III ll
Interesting developments In n
w llh the Short SHlrl Tiie uss "
I ItHllg U) 1 .11 t el I s t ft -ai ate:
' lit of He in e II, ii The liarliiil .
ccyttful llllle sltjg laced boot uf Hu - m
Inffuence will doubtless be worknl in
in a rggulai varlst) of fotms and iitoi
let Mis. The old ."land. u l high ilolll
top patent lent a t Imm I st; I holds Its
own against tin- newer it ode'-, however
A few velvet Hoot in i) decrease in
Monotony L-m lioe gre . nt of tiu
gUistluii anil rne short skin), ami si en
now liters I a pronouna'sd tsudsnc) ta
gel away fa nut all MHOia Sti'Mff black."
lie of Ihe most gmUSlllg Hung abOUt
going to see collection ot niodvla ia ta
opposition w e put up against tin Herman
attack Whan we look on mn,Ue. Ih.
chief MOW of the ein-tny's Btrtngth a,.
paid foi the right to control r - siren
which out allies will take foi da,
lo llt-a-lale l-ln ait t-rii tiaac.il, ,,
"Prom the moment that Ttl iej , s.
tsrtd into ihe war the win acquired
new Importance; namely , th- I. . ,,.
tin- Rest em question vmi tn- ie. .,
will Is- lu aaur favaar. This t lie nue..
Hon Which has troubled ii fm remark
foi winch during Ihe age w. ,,
oui Id, o I
"ClOSS and dear to oui heart I ure sur
Ruthonlan brothers n i unbearable
that m any place our kin. i, . tnd .,
brother, should it- mho ing main . p.
sign yoke, that in gnj pis - Ihe we i
'Russisn' should bear s inllmsrh nf
shamsi that In an) pine to its it
should be .- rime We shall In Ii t ..
free lom and Squall!) .
"Hut a thousandfold leater ' is ..
the inters is of the Russian ne - n
Russia itself, me Interests of Hi, i; ...
flan Rmpire ami of mtr mnthii Russia
And thete interests demand free
passage into Qod's light tin- strail
di (M iiile: t from Turke.v ,iu. ft-
Power th..t through inone) ia he om
her tnlgtresa Ami for lite sirs
prh e i too high.
"If a a- have to pi, :,. ti,- . i.,t ene!
hy withholding use ,, lei -., save f: i
tope, the whole attsck of ti e cnen
us pay. Tin im lanellrs worth i
we lave to pay in blood foi the fteeiln.n
oitd Independence of our aaci.-i I; ,
and for an ex.t tn the world w ,
irady to pay The reward i w . i,
"At.i wh'n we think of w it 8 ... ;
on now in Qatlcla lit us sa! In uursslvs
only this--this is on; payment fu
1 lardanelle a ni allies ire flghtlna
there for ua just a- we gre light l u he
lo. thsm. It l. a slut. ol lo. .i I i-asoit o
think that our allies will b it, us
oaiv-ti. .ti i ne i .aril am lies 111 -.-icing
for us. They are lighting 1 I
the'r might and with all I .
a nee, Juat as we are ttghtinai rm then i
lain la by taking tile - hat ..... . ,..
BSIVSS And the holy bits 1 1 ... I: ... . J
being shed in ...ilie. a ii, payma s.
Datdanellea, In payment fm . nm
and Independence of oui moth Russia''
JAC'iUES KRAMER LNTERNF.D
Maaaatee ml ihe I arlton in i inn
t nder Ban a lierman.
LoNOOf. Aug. l.'l ,l.i .. j. . Kr.i
forme manager of tin i nit it i
was intern. ! a tiermtii t .
He is 'tie last of t .. Herman 1ml ingl
a(.a-; - to '.. tini ,, ai: wll: II a nt
confined at Alex i Ira Palm i in tin 1 1
skirt t of London.
K'.imt-i i t Idy Mionn : .
Ame l.'an visitors to lm I ii tha
other hot-I manager II i rise I
ing id wain : of the Carlton - -
tnu.'nnl to be managi ot ihe I -it
.v.. o .e of ihe I w Wig) alnl ..- ' -i
a "swelled bead ' All it. " .:
of the war he continued :n Ins I
until hs antbOerman feeling i
the directors were reluctnntl.i ; i i
ie him go.
Mis friends, and they - inutiy .
Iniiuenllal, managed to keep hin f
luternmeni far n year( nut ti,-
poli.-.v cf the i lovi rnmeni nt. rt
all Hermans caught him . ,
he wa- oblli d to give up -I- ' irrltii
rid Hot ; It li ,w and bis ,v :
method of living ..mi go with : , mis
oi his countrymen t ie hardshipi al
the . .1. a titration I amp
Kr... iit t - manager of the ll : as
similar!) treated about six wei t.
II:-: CUSS Was particular!) ai: -i
was in.,. : led to .. Preni ii on , at I
itirel) oui ot sympath) ail i ';--n,n
mi t Itodi ami ideal -
Pruger, fornierly manager ' ;
Savoy . ll,. It of thi c ,f,. , ; i ijaa - ,t n
X'a tv Voik a
Autoni bile H!ub .. Lotiduti - - free
i i - . 1
an Bngtleb woman Tin- : -t: -Auatr'n
s art less severe t n ,.f its,
mans, and unless ,on, fur tha nuthn
against aliens o cur- p.-ug will proga
bl) retain his libei ty
Tit rs at,- many anomalous .- ,i,ti vi
mult i in. il:i Tit sit v's
-. . . l
il.igln i .
married an English wlfi and wli - - i
sans a , light ing ... ti,. Engl h mi
CITY OF PARIS TO FLOAT LOAN'
Will I II I. ol Mil I i.
il Hu h lime oi litfrra'.l
" v .. , I
hose last big loan was al tin
it iter cent . being In need of mom a '
Ipinsd suthoylsa nc. iu issui I
munlcliKil I-,: di io m it
mon'lUJ io otic yew Tile St..-.
ngrei d in tit ,i i ;, loti.nt f . .. -i
the publh issue is therefore Iti
It is inten sting to noti wh.ii
of I'm Is hi, to p i t fin ts ii. on,
Ihe ile. .1 time Holds m.n- h '
130, It an tjuii ; o ?
lie lilt, li
t ' .
Interest ,- S '
1 .. iiurgtiai
: iv.'r. I -
, In noo
.1 it . drg
rer ti ,i,. in ih I- , :i,
, dt pending upon t ie in .
, i'1' designer M ne n
it h.l SU
light dresses V g.aa n w ith
(llll, He, I C : a,. gow
: ., ,
: - -
- ill' I i ' Ta o '
III' nil, il!
I i a
' i ,
r i M. ..la g
,. , , .
.i-ss. d a" " ml Hi '
l . ,
it- :, -
Idlli'k I vet H - I mill a I
. - ! ill sin
,: .: ,
SO me ltd' ha I i. . k .
it Ihi Hm ahen
fgehlnu reused a c.i .k
tlani i" idgear It ni
goldttsh standing up