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The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1916-1920, November 05, 1916, SECTION 3, Image 29

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Much Fur on the
lanv Shades
Coats With
rr-slll'. long "ait r:il utiil the-tot
I tfi.it are- very itni ti.int mi the
A n :nt"f "chcilne. ,
Som-uin' t!t-y '.imc m much In
fommoi) tliit th unit coat ciin b
nviiW to s"rve Ixit'.i purpose, litit . it
f! fashnm makers scorn tho tit III -urUn.
and it Is not to tlit- Interest of
my o..e wtc the woman concerned
t5.it 'lie "liotild be iibUs t make one
jtrmont do duty for two. So n in.ij.it'
;y of the coats tliat arc made as Id
tesral iii tr. of two piece or tlyce i'i-c-costumes
(..my their purpose rlonvly
tamped upon tltem. They; ni.iy make
their I")"' to the straight sllhuuo;tc.
hut thfy til i less ample th.in the top
coats, and very often they make slight
toncc'-'On-f to waist curve", reserving
thur extreme fulness for n tiolnt le
th .ilp!1.
Many of tiif suit coats ate helled.'
fcut the belt Is not so general n. It was
!Mt s.ion. and quantities of the good
looking Ions coats of costumes, in
velours lie l.iine, Rlovealtln. Bolivia tnul
the otli'r popular velvety wonllejis. nte
very cleverly out to Indicate the waist'
curve J.tst :i little nnd fall full below
tt hlpJ on the "Id"., though retain
ing h cci tain flatness In front and
Lick. The wearer looks wide ttnd com
paratively straight from front or rear
Tien', '.'lit more slender In ptollle
It l! till? solt of tailored suit that
the conservative woman" I" likely to
order; bat the coat of thrcr-quarter
length r more u trying to home fig
ures, and In its senil-rltted phase often
tice a matronly air that youth r.nc
ten modern mAtroiiliucM will not
Tr.r alternative)" are the Ion? litis
l!jn cost, the long, fully flaring eoat
tr.i the shorter coitn, which range all
the way from tlnserlip length the
ienstii marked by the llngcrtfp" when
tfcr f.rm.s ban? straightto the short
bolero and Uton which. In straight or'
florin: IInr, me seen on onic very
hi.- fur trimmed costumes.
Lativlu bus one Rood. very short.
A blouse of embroidered silk
'tr.Iit coat, with scarf collar, which
! ti'.ng much copied for yfuithfu'
"i.ers; and little fur boleros- nnd
ajiele. fur sacks thnt look more
i&e capes than coats, aie inci easing In
aumbtr, but. on the whole, the cos
t'lme coat inclines to length and ofien
lie even to eMiemes in that dlrcc- '
Amusing exaniplus of the very full,
'cr.t enstume coat appear occasionally,
n tae case of a skating costume,
We soft vdveiy wiKillen coat of .sil
very sr.iy was shirred full to a ahoul-'1
Ier jglie and lined with gray and white
V Ti.s big collar and culfs were of,
the wri ts fur picked out with gray, s
s fii fur cap with its strap of cloth.
t- mm
M' i.vi i itiier thingf the war has
f- nisi, -til new phrases. I do
.. i-i fer to "itch ii ttilogy of
-'ing .s lt!...'ii .Mark."." ".It'ck .lohn-
.ni' "tiott "trafe.'' but to term"
5ii' i ii.ive some icitl solemnity of cx
Urts'Jon, w ich In uddltlon to being
lat ' and in'niitc'il to thn leaulre-
enis uf tin- hour luvc depth und pre-v-"lon
it mulling.
TV w . has tnught natlonn to tlilnk
bnii- ot iiiciianlc.", and so we have
'I'l" P irif.s "man power," 'Moinan
poivt Htid unhui)illy too "child
Mr. io .sum u;i thoso litunnn fiv
''t'sin tin strife thnt nre now tegiu'ibtd
hard y ra, impurtciit ihnn th" moI
'''r .n the Held. These new phrnse.i
w- this nituiied to harmonize , with
the tr.uie r.tmosiihcro of tho iitji.
Tile key unto to tho w ur'n ulm and,
""tiiwl in m ,c. fnund In tho dedication
".' wutnt-ii ami chlklttm to the work .of
lPPlyuig a oatloii with reservcH of
Unsightly Hair
uuilif. ii, nur tKMUsuie br Mun.
Coats Yellows, in
Popular Top
Huge Collars
and on the front of the eoat- attached
to the eoat. mind jou- was a flat fur
nuiiT. Into vhlch the hand could be I
dipped. Convenient, of course, till
muff that could Dot be diopped nor
lot but rubor plnsterllke n crfect
when not in use.
The nkht, showing hut little. W,l
full and short nnd the entire model
vwi more than a little bunchy and ab
mud, yet u piquant little mannequin
suci ceded In looking dtolly dellirhtful
in It.
-Mml mote weaiable In Hue, but
wry xtrlMntf In both color and detail.
! n Milt of yellow wool, a beautiful,
old el!ow. trimmed In white fur, th,c
close hlsii collar of fur wntlnuInK
down the trout in a .sweoplmr curve, to
mere Into a deep bund around the
coat bottom. The llne.i Mid 'detail of
thl coat in-. dltlnetly ordinal, and
lopled In lexK strlklns co'.or n the cos
tume would be admirable. '
VellowM iir apiHirently to e popular
with tbr c.-owd, and the urecilh mus
tard and 'chartreuse toncn ute very
contdderabl' In evidence, partlcularlv
in motor coit., thuiiKh one ees many
street Milt In there tonen. The e
ciuhvne. that dltlnulbed these
elloW8 last reason has. however, d
parted, and. tliouuh fur trlmmltn; can
tone down the trylne colors and rescue
the complexions of the wearers, th'so
cllois are noticeable anions the
cheaper suits rather more often than
atnonc'the very IiIkIi class models this
I.xt-eptbms to the r.ule nre uwny nriU
uiiii' of tht' models, In the Jovely.
browiilNh yellow 'for which'" Cherult
"and. ceven.l - other I'rencli liottse
showed a liking at their opeplnss' nr
belntr ' corderl mVr hrtn" In' thn 'iA..
Acriuit yellows, decidedly to the dlsnd
1 Mintage of the nicOll. y
' Tho.'c wmie warm yet soft brownish
yellows and light Turouiiiv licipe -nnd
Xind tones. cni the lfefit' hony
sha .ci., are jilouile Into motllh ul
lorrd ,coMuiTiesfllnnrt lnvi.rla'l'y fil
' ttlmiued. the fur Khinu an nir of
warmth where the tone of the ma
terial In perhaps a trifle cold. ,
The i;rnyK also nrje in 'demand, ana i
the 1 'ii are robbei .if imv eiilitnet in
lavish lH'fmrlns. liven a gray s;itln
and one of chiffon and satin
whose long co.it falls in rippling Iu
tious folds utmost .to the'hem'of tho
slilrt bent nth looks cosily i-omfortahle
for wintry weather whop fortified by
i'. i crp caK' collar of chinchilla-squirrel
and linde-i n fo.it doep arolfiidithe
bottom 1n tin s.itiic'fur. "
They are very hatiiso-,ie. those satin
Mistumcs. made of raini in wonderful
quality, rich and uitber heavy, yet
very supple and with- a high lustre.
One sect, uncommonly good looking
modelH of this class In blue!;, with
brown fur, such as kolinsky., with- er
mine, with rabbit, Ac., a flock of the
black satin accompanying tbe coat.atid
completing a very piacttcal afternoon
Dark green in the new shades, and
particularly the Russian green, is liked
for thee satl i nlts. and is liked, too,
In the tine woollen. : but for (thetWe
human nfaterlal. No doubt the' two
elements of Hfi When'-wai; Is titK'
."(i-'vi'il itiiii't always b; cunruireiif an
illsi pullilOe, for It would be, llicohci Iv-
ai'iet.iat women nan iniiniui in.ii is nait'eneiii -nnit Dolliltig more i nerr
to say tin1 (iitivo of poiulr.tioti and are but few' American' wiio know the
population Itself -could ever be neg- Trench foyer or bono, thoroughly i
le'clul in the icoiiotny of strife. I'hll-' wel, who have a long If mipertlclal ac- J
dien, or recrultB In germ, nnd ivotneli.'l'inial.itance with tlie cotintiyl while '
i r Ihe. mcaiiti of i.roduchiK'jthoHe re- thos.i AmerlcnnH who take up their I
criiltH, cuti be mcdu to cover n miiltl- .dwelling In I'arls rarely get into print )
tilde 'of losses, social, Industrial and 'or Into the Intimacy of Trench house-j
' mllltitry. under the idea of serving-1 holds'. Tlicy knlivv the history of the
truth and the fatherland. war an well as 'the wnr correpondentH
An in llcle. oti .this subject if rwohcMt can teach It anil have sruspod the i
vvorkei'M lu Trance nnd Cleriijany, writ- , spirit of the soldiers, the ivunirccs of
ten by Mt Tlerrc Hump, npriMled the shopn and munition factories, the,
lale'ly In' l.a Grande llei'ttr,' M. lfahip";) 'high ciialltles of the ' workers, the
observation .qomo nt un opiiortune mo; liglits-and bhdovrs, the panorama of
nlent, now that the jdiortngo of men Is war. ' .Votwlthstnndlng this knowledge
rtallzcd un an curly forthcoming ovnt they riirely lmvo-the time or dlf posl-.
in the war. Ho wriltii an actor who,' Hon to master the 'went and prosaic I
lifts taken tin m:tivcpartln tno (level-
opnientH iintl vicissitudes of tho pilst
. war lu Trance: in fact. If onn accfpt?
the view of hU nrllclo the exclusion i
must he nr'liveil at that without th(i la-
tlioi- of women, i.ndjiptlrlny labor too,
11)01' Will IH) UO rL-DUUiin iui nmmr
bui 4hJi eirn)raent of Afrlcllt -and.
AnIiiIIo rnceH, tlie uncivilised Kubjiea
and tho dlHtlnctly nmvelcomo Chinese.
"Wi must chooKf,',' h nays, tn'd'
Kubyfo or the l'refidh womnn."
Ho Ignorcji'tno hrutullty of thin de
presslug remark. The ultuhtlon wirliSh
it reveals 1 noniewhat Htrnngu to
Amofienn. . mi'- ncea iiliHa week
nnuiVmni Veuf Vork t o -Cherbourii
j'liardry n liour' fer 'A tite to' travel
from New xorK to mrn, jw me pv
tik TAwirlai know lew pf the indm-
II W'r mfr M M LHHB .... " 1
i H r v m w m ' r i m w l
-3 .A suit of yellow vclotirs'de laino with brown fur. a coat of Bordeaux chenille cloth with seal
. . and trimmed with squirrel.
i being i.te wine(ie(ls .nnj tin vciy
Ime'y toimulu I'j'ie, which hi" n tlnC
' of gr,iy ,li. It( ,ie perhlp the il.uk
Co!i tiiot iftjeil for -tin't weal'.
I Until the reds and the blue are very
I often relieved by gray gray ein'iiold-
er, gray fur, gray cloth, and the
I'rrneh makers like u touch of old hluu
ori'wlnc red", though the combination
does out .seem to be appealing to Amer
ican raste.
lnleskliv Is rf-nutlful on both tin
red's and the bine, but, for that m.ft
ter, mole Is used on practically evciy-
Ihltjg save ceitain browns, and m.ui-
agevi to liarnionl.e with ai:.
Senl'U less popular than mole, yet
t L" effective, and ill its usual forms Is
ntodei-atc In price, tienulno Alaska
'l--iea Ih In the fur i-l.iss wlieic priie"
are prohibitive to all s-ive tin- fe"-, inn
i tjie pelt Is Imitated so elo-ely tl.,i! the
Imitation answers trimming purpose
':ts"well a-i the real t-hlng. thouirh it wlli
not near ilke the (mI thing.
' The Trench designers like i:i on
the red" and some one Paipiiu, wasn't
Ii? sent over a top coal It- Cotilc.ius
cloth, nenl trimmed, that haa bee a
much udnii id and copieil. '"In; Ii regu
lar line at Isittimi, so dear to Paris, is
' ronton d in this coat in i -lu fashion.
The main body of the' r v ! tn '
sllglitly at the waist line by a oft
i scarf, liett of the cloth imd It; i.iuply
banded In fur ncross the bottom arid
collared high in fur. Side sections fall
straight from shoulder to a point sev
Ynl Inches below the rest of the coat
and nre broken in line only 1.' big
pockets. They give . the approved
straight slihoueite, and there Is no sug-Kt-atiou
of banchlness or woodenuess
,a!oiit the mo lei n there Is about some
of the top coats.
tr.n) iondltlon' of France to-day than'
tU"y illd before the war.
i i probably cornet to eny that in '
die lllllld of 'most people I'ralicc I- ,1
"operations of War by the qiilcpliuantry
of women and children' In the dally
rbaltle oMndimtrlal llfo.
m. lump ! well qunlllled to dealt
with these delicate questions from
mnnysinndpdlnta. Ho Is an economist,
und, llko-nwuy culflvftted I'rfnchmen,
itn expert lu 'Hiioh vnrlouH, things uh
Hoclolosry; , buslrreps syndicalism und
eugenics. ' Ills rlewH nro thiw Intro-
iluced: Uemoi-racy Is trylnif to gain i
on Jnilustrlal . victory . with foreign i
lnhw'. velU'o VdibwJt. thnt tlio. war lias
maM IT necessary to import Uhlpesc
and Kftliyk'o. He fully recognizes tho'1
perilp of a ttytitein .of lalior- which has ,
ulreofly ln-o many plnces supplanted
tlie out CKinea arurann.oi ivrai)cer. n,
U a foreign legion tn the ranks of the
Confederation Oenerle du Travail.
l I' - ta'.ile gatmcivts al tiiir best,
the lop (Mils of r.iii-IT' They are
very. ample and wirm. yet surpiiMmJy
light, thanks to the cblit.ict"-risiu-s of
th vehel bulsb woollens which .-in-iisutilly
chosen tor th" most desirable
.iioi.fl". Itloutis, iliiik g.ceti. w.ne
lists, dark blue., and yellows arc the
colorings most otten .elei'tel. and fur
trims n large prieuiage of ti.e smart
est ciKits. ye there are superlatively
inodU'i 1'iencb models, luiliiied only in
the .loth, bat collared hugely its n tub-,
tile bl.- sott cloth colla: being I'taped
,iU .1: tnioiit and shniilitc i . and sii"-ceptilib-
of adjustment lu vailous ways.
liiei ks anil plaiiti. still in the satin
ty p.- of woolliu "turfs, aie sometimes
made ,nto elite tup coats, but arc hatd
! so son', for ai around wear us tile
plain colo.s. ti oilg'l e. -ellent for
motor and sports- puipoes. i:iellent
s.i far as I inks go: but there's no de
iivlng C'-- f.e t lb ll these beautiful and
limtr'mo- woollen iii.iterials will rot
.-tan. r-.iily rough wear without grow
ing shabby s dllj :'nnd If ohc wants
"oUli-tllillg for lllird s(lice the
tweeds, holliespUlls alio Mini. I'll stllfis
are as always the wise choices. I sti
lell.i cloth belongs to this gtillp, but
lliouga lAtreuniy niodl"h It Is hardly
m ooU cuit material as other, lesd
e:.plol(eil inaieii.ilH of the homespun,
tweed and ciievlot, group.
Tile soft, rough surface cheviot"
make op well for utility top coats, and
ihe Trench houses show many model
in these niati rli.ls. most of them fur
trimmed, though ultra modish effects
it ty be obtained without fur, and pro.
vlded there actual originality of line
and detail the lack of fur trimming
begins tn ! almost a murk of dlstlnc-tlm.
1 1 r Is equally Impartial .n discussing
the differences beiweiti the chatacter-Ista-s
of men mid women worm is. The
war has olfered ,111 opening, perhaps,
an undesirable ,uin . t" women wh
propose to take ip uiechiink' ii wotk.
(Jn the other hand it has not been
eticourugltig to educated women who
cannot secure the uec.est.ary training
for chemical, textile and munition em
ployments, since the employer il v
no; like uhskllle'd work.
Women are engaged In ngiieulluie,
In forestry, tree felllitg und cutting
bee: roots for the hvut sugar Industry.
Hut hitherto the educated woman has
hardly had" the chance she deserves,
and th" employment of women In
Franco has burn mo.stty on Jobs which
require no sieclal Intelligence. The
war Jms- changed thl", and the "dis
tribution of womnn power," to use ihe
technical phrase. Is now going on Im
part, illy in the chemical, cloth, sins."
am' met liiirgicl Indnsliiei,
M. Ilanip'fl' llienti It; 'the light ex
pftiditttro of this power. He, like
other econe I"ts, has to Iind rot in'
In the tt'itloaal dispensations for es
petiso u)iou the family and In some
Hort the luxury of Having children. A
patiiotlo und purely .KOlenlltlo .writer,
I in has to consent to the use .if the
labor cf women lu the faetoile.s 'and
munition works. Hut, though he toler
ates, this c.xpitidlturi'i in ti patriotic
cause, he lnslt;M that all labor of
'iimrrUd woiiieu outsido tho fcyer Is s
much loss und dostrtictlon of infant
Womi, he soy, cannot unite the.
l'o, ret b,i sent over a in.nt.ai ook
lug Out estraui-illuai lly chic lop . oat in
suede cloth thnt ha" nut a tri.ee of fur.
but drapc.s J ti -1 a bit around tile liqis
and -.uist. though n-tnlnlng It" straight
I. ics. buttons up tin- side tiont and lias
i scarf collar mullUig the throit and
brought forward uv.-r the light sliou!
iter, w-iere the fluttering end shows
-.iiiupses of a very gay printed silk
There ale ul-o good Imported models
of mie inne woul whose enormous col
li.! s and trimmings are, of tin tun plaid
wool i :teml of fur. and other cleverly
designed coats are all In plaid of al
most invisible design and softly bieiiiK-d
coloring, but when all 1" said and done
there at" among tho high class it"
four models fur trimmed to one with
out fur.
I'rituet is i sponsible fur a .sti.k.ng
cheviot co-it of very l.ght blown or
blowtilsh b"Ige, the entire body section
of 'which . of brow u rabbit, w bile from
the dropped wjht Hue down the .-hev.
lot falls In full straight folds am! the
big fur trimmed sits-ve." aie of the
j cheviot, lly way of brightening the
collar is lined with coral red and there
is r. buckle of the raine led on the nat
row cheviot int.
The low waist line ptevalls In co.it-
I un, whether Indicated by a low placed
belt or by u seam; and whether the
belt Is very broad or very narrow, It
lines not draw the waist In, though It
may con line full folds loo.ely. A wide
cloth In It edged narrowly at top and
outturn is sumi-tlmes s-.i u, ami a wide
belt eiitltely of fur Is not unusual, the
li'tttr running all the way around the
I waist or limited to either back or front.
I Coat of soft, light weight stuns,
I hnnglng In straight plaits from a
two tuitetlons of motherhood and husl
ness and do the work of rearing chil
dren. And this I" why it Is Irritating
to hear men spend of tho "depopula
tion of Trance." The calculators of a
nation's wealth In womnn power are
"Imply to Mule their cahtilatliiusi that
done they should be the lltst to And
ethic il and physiological reasons why
the Industrial employment of women
is a los." in the birth rate and a gain
In tiitant mortality.
in France the districts where wom
en woik in the factories are mortal to
childten, M. Hani)) gives some tlgures
to support his view. At the munition
works of Creusot, for example, women
were lormerly not employed al all. At
present 7 per cent, of the workvts bete
tire women, or, In a word, there are
I.huu Women engaged in making guns
ami shells at the greatest of French
munition fattoiies, Now the Infant
mortality rate I" the highest In France,
being fi per lent, above that of the
Hep.irtnient du Nurd, which Is the
"puyn dindustrle feminine" and where
ftom IIS to 33 per cent, of the babies
die annually,
Again, at Lille the mortality sof the
chlhlien of women who go dally to tho
factory Is 67 per cent, greater than
the mortality of the-children of the
women at the foyir. III these two
facts ho hopes his countrymen will
plan some order in that strictly un
productive expenditure of human lite
whirl) civilization In ordinary clrciim-Mant-os
could hardly etuiuro,
The remedy Is, It need be. the labor
of foreigners, even Kabyles and
Asiatics, and he has much to snynf
and a gray skating coat lined
I 'Ppl ll W.ll-I ' I'l'. l iHl ., I I'l'l
.-i'.ii-bi i h . . ,n,. ni. nl w.tn a ell or
With oniy .i coiilt-d or -ttlclnil s',iin to
I'ea.l tin- plaits, .mil I'leiint and
linrult do not hesitate in soli- a long
coat skirl f .ill v to a straight, long
wai-ted lop. boti.ig a little upstanding
frill bend the skii t section.
.leisey or tricot must not Ik forgot
ten in tall, of top coats, for it is popu
lar not merely for spurts coats but
also tor the long tup coat designed fur
general wear, and like everything else
l. otten livislily fur ttlmiued. With
IV as with fatln. the fur is i rally
nenl'-d. fm- thl wiMilleii material
though thicker than the tricot of Minium-
and very soft ami pretty, lias not
the air of Insurious warmth that cli.u
nctn l.cH the woollens of velvety or
:r.osy Hf-.-h- does no; even tool, so
warm as the cheviot" and hume-pnns,
It do.-s. hourvrr fall In graeetul foid"
aril with tut Kindlug. collar and -'ulfs
1." chat tiling.
The new Tlbir velvit has t'-on taken
up by coal makers, and tile l.-si of the
velveteens are lll.nle Into good looking
fur trimmed top coats, while for the
long coal dedicated to afternoon wear
ve.vei shares honors with velvet sur--faced
woollen- and satins.
All these materials aie made up on (
the same Hue." and In the same color
ings, am) the cloth and satin coats at
their best arc usually u.s epcnslve as
the velvet models and, thanks to the
li.g lur collaie, almost as 1 coming,
Stli their is a tidiness t.- velvet of
the finest quality that llu other plain
tone iu.iteii.il attains, and there are
velvet after loon coats, p.nilculiu ly lu
the uu'ilMi reds, toiv-d down by much
fur. that sprak the last word In rich- ,
the honur und power of work by men
and the disgrace ot imported work,
while be gives his solemn assurance
that lorthe country which makes
inothi i s and children ,o the work of
'its lliell their Is no safety llllbss It
shall dispose isc to I rcome poof. Ill
i the use of woman power for the tos.
lei lug of war the nation and the man
ate warned alike that the spending
which would be lawful In a society
where none were lighting or starving
lor lack of men ought 114 be foregone
or deli'ircii where children have no
cats- and no proper food,
lie contrasts I'lunco ami (leiiuany.
In ticim.inv, the wink of women I"
! organlij'd In characteristic Teutonli!
fashion on u charitable und temporary
plan. In !eriliany there Is the-Miipe
need, but not the same employment of
woman power. Thus tioiu .lauuiiry
I. tl'l'.. to Angus; I, ifi.V tiie authori
ties, have arranged for so much em
ployment of women in woik that
properly belongs to tin 11. The Uttciuii
tions lu the supply ami ileniand of the
two kinds of labor uie put down in the
table." of tlie chatltable treasurers:
41.;: 1
.. 1
.I111111 in
' .Miuel
. .1 II lie ,
1.1. s!IV
III -i3S
!. ..'I'
It thus appeals that the usual ml
iiiitibtriitinu of the nilliiniy service
laws in both countiii-s has not pin-
Vl.led a sutllclent number of men to
make the uiltbolitles easy about tho
1 future, ami 1 he need of women work
ers l advertised1 In different ways In
Peplum Models Among Blouses Tempt,
but Are Not Always Wearable
e Exquisite Imported Designs
J.OL'PIOS are more InterestlnR
than they have liecn in many
a day. That they are more
becomlnif one would hesitate to "ay,
for the loose, peplum model that
add Jo much to the variety ami charm
of the blouse colleclloiiH arc Hot to In;
worn by every woman nnd do not,
lo..k well over every skirt.
Many ,i woman who loses her heart
to one of them and sends her money
after her heart will end by wearlnp
the blouse tucke,! Inside her sklr :
mil ll a o ouse om inc. .lie rnui
IIIV.UIIIIIIK 11 lll in' II l L'lWirillif i liuimt'
from the Inevitable tucked In model.
The ilcs-lcucr are workliiif the new
Idea for nil thuL It Is worth. Not that
the Idea really Is new. 1'cplum blouses
were worn l ist whiter and there were
ph-iity of them among the summer
mums; oni so many new vaiianons .
aie being rung upon the theme that i
the models do take on an air of
Among the lniple.t and smallest
moilels for tailored wear nte those
entirely of satin. One very uccess
fill model In this clas buttons slt.iluht
up the front riid on tip through a
high, cbwe collar, with buttons of the
satin, but l- left without miltons or
other closing device for four or five
lnche below the base of the throat
and so cut that It opens Jui a trifle
there, breaking the stiffness of a but
toned line over the chest.
The blouse has a shoulder oke. Is
loosely and narrowly belted with a
satin Kind, and the collar Is faced
with white satin and roll." over Just
n trifle to show the becoming line of
while. This "iiine model h made up In
ICililully, tailored In air but open
necked 'Is a -chiffon and -satin blouse,
a model that liaf proved wonderfully
succ-essful. IVIlar, button, button
holes and la-It are of satin, Hie rest
of the bloii-e' ill cbitfoii of the satin:
color.. The siinaie neck Hue Is good
and new, and the irregular ni range
meat of the button trimming on the
front gives an original note.
tloth of these Mouses arc compara
tively fboil, but thulo ate othcri ih.1t
fall much turtber over the shut, smite
of Ktis.-lan allure dropping to line
length nnd below. Thl.s e.strenie U ncth I
Is. of course, practical oni; under a
long coal or for In i.-e wear .I'd s not
Invariably becoming, but the hiipoiler--bow
suiiie exipils to th.ngs of tbl
soil .11 brocade tissue.-, chifloll Ve.Vet
biocaded. brocade s.itlr of very
A blouse of sand colored silk
supple weave. ,n.d Intticateiy em'.irold
eted plain ufToiis, (ieorgette cepe,
,c. Tl'e brocades aie very often fur
tr.nminl. but embroidery pliys a very
Import. nit part lu 'be' fashioning of
many m the new blouses. It is usually
embroidery of ,i delicate kind, shadowy
traceries wills pi'i-hap a glint of metal
inning th' spidery threads-, but it sue- I
ceed" lu being very effective.
A biscuit blouse of (Ieorgette crepe,
very simple lu line, with a Hat low
collar, fii. I sleeves with narrow wrist-li-imls.
a moilcr.iti'ly long peplum be
low a n.iirow bep. gains illsf.aciioii
through well designed eini'l oldery lu
black a deep aid ,.f th'.c tracery
around the l.ttoiii. nan iw binds or
hell, wrl"tb.inil. and collar Datk blue
embroidered 'n giny. wine and gray.1
green ,,nd beige, gray and dull silver, i
geranium and gray- all of these color-1
Untried, anxious nrtliii s In l'tane.
ni nunc oiiieriy i.is'ii.oi 111 iieini.mv.
In .iildilioil. inie is no menace ot
foreign -iboi in 1 ic 1 ninny 11 11 I no
such livigle.il nnd ill-ipiletiii- blo.nl
lav on ratlc youth as .11 Fratio.
Tlll-I Illuminating I'.ugitieering
siocb'ty consists of more than
l.nnii members intetesHd In
lighting trotii various standpoints- -engineering.
economic. hygienic,
.esthetic--hut which has no alllllatlon
with any onum rclal 01 ganlzatlon.
These men a gulze th. Importance
of spi'i aduiR knowledge i.eniit the use
uid mUiisc nt light, beeause Igmiranco
Is aid to injure one of man's most
preclou" po-si slops good eyesight.
And In older to iireserw' cyrsuiit fur
tin- I'uturc it litis iiioiiuht togi ther c.x
liert lilnls which may well be consul
ered by the average mail ami woman.
io nut think that because a lamp
looks glaring mid brilliant it Is
giving good light, it may be merely
giving yiui too much light lu the
vvtoiig place un the other baud a well
shaded table lamp iiiny appear to lie
dim becius" p Is well Hii.nlcd. aid yet
be giving th'st class light for Woik
lllg. See that your light l" ste.nly If
the light flickers your eyes endeavor
to adjust thcnisives to the wavering;
motion, with the r'sult that the flick
I erlng light Iteeps the eye ""ee-sawlnc"
Ittits and tiiuiiy others nit made up
In this, mime model,
, The bell, b the way, has a loose
elastic run tlirniiiflt It. mi that It may
be adjusted over any skirt and stay in
place without drawing In the whilst.
Somo of the exclusive. Imported
mndrti lire il.uliii...t ..lit .A.. ...
wllUll.0l, ...j
t,lrown u ,f ,. , ,Mrl(.li;;,r ..,
t.ver,y deslcned with a suKeMlon of
,.,. xv f , , , ,
un Uwn nco. , , , ,
jtlM u W1.e ,,. T ln!lU.Ha , rIc,,
wr.lln. The buttons are of thn aatln.
Theie Is a hluh standing collar
lightly embroldeied Along t edge.
Kittle low set pocket on each sldo of
the from are embroidered too, ami
there Is h line of embroidery along
each shoulder seam and on the satin
cuff that ttnlshc'i einii chiffon sleeve.
nt ,, riPXf.,.,,fl tmMIj Hl,out ,)(.
m.i0 .1,,. ....... wi,i,.h .i.u r,.n,.,.
formal long Walstnl front Is Joined to
11 loose Mralght Imck falling ipiltc full
below a high walsted belt that Is cut
lu one with the front, , very distin
guished blouse and ery wcarablo in
spite of its unusual lines, but an ama
teur maker would be fairly sure to
bungle it
Another nitiiei die.s imported
blouse of silk Is in wiirni Ivory with
louche of old blue eiet and of em
broidery In self color iiinl blue and gold
Hosts of peplum blouses In white
nnd llesh color embroidered m self
color or sllverim shown, nnd there are
many gray models rinluoldered In sil
r and color 111 s inn one iolor
such as dark bUie or wine evidently
with thought of Miaptidillity to ijar'k
tailored costiiiiiei.
Many women piclci a very light
lined blouse white or tlcsii or lot
With II tollCil of ellltiloldel 111 colol
matching a suit - to a dark blouse In
the odor of the iut. and while a light
blouse and a daili -lilit do cut llgitti
length and me disastrous .to any save
the simid 1 long H-.iiste.i. the light
b!oue Is ordinarily moi ljconilng to
the face than a dark one.
The necks of tin smaitesl lilou-.es
nte prone to shallow oval and sipiare
llnrs. with occasional -tratgbi shoulder
to saoiilder or t!ie si.iinl awa,
r:lng collar :Ii.ir so pi'-tnirque
but o dilllcuit of adjustment ,111. 1 mi
Imtl.islllle to He.-il mile) .1 ial With
out nui&.sin:. I'o: tiios' wlm cling to
the V lieeli opening however, theie
ale -till lliuiliuei'.ilile pretty blouses.
.Models buttoning ill Hie back and
models sii,mt; on over the head, the
with blue velvet and one of white
with red.
l itter iiioii, - ,sii,i.;y ot tin iieplum
or unbelted .leikiii onlei. ate shown
"Verywhei e. nnd. by tin- w i.v mir mast
tot pass river the sctin-.oo-e. softly
wrinkled .leikin bloiisi with. ait a word
of aplireciatloii. It ipunl.v close"
down the shniiider and under arm, Is
embiMlilei id a little along lis edge",
and mi the light woman Is a very pic
turesque affair, but it calls for willowy
lictlll esqurlv lovely to... and like
the jerkin somewhat hard to we
well, are p.-i fe. llv stia.ght tunic
blouses of 1 b HlM'St .Hid sotti s v'clvi'
nt -quale i tin neck einiu'oaleii a
alol. ml eilues og s, g,ll,.,l
high b a vi iv unriow bam) of tip
Velvet thnt diss Pot diaw the blouse in
at all The uiodel his a tliedl.i v. 1 1 all
and in some colorings is very stun
ning. und the niti.-e;e,s ih.u govern the ry
get tired, reacting mi t'ie iici-m s ninl
causing discomfort u well 11- pa 11
Itew iicot lette. 'tions tun conn 'mm
polislie.l gin-- metal aright v , ci ne
.surfaces . or 11 Ii.hii g.os.. bu
paper on ivbe' . ;. powirln t 1
shining. From 'iim- uiuin 11101 1 I .11,11
hind bus 11 . Ive.l light iii..-t,v f.-oiii
till sky. atlil .i-, occolne a ll.stonitil
to t. j'or t'ni. reason it is i.est to hnvi
artlflclul iigln come iroin nbovi i.n
head and soim what stdewisi as It di
from the Mill
It is a mistake, continues tin. 1
lumlliatlng Kngltiei 1 ing Society '..
Use a bright tight against a dark b.n. -gloutnl,
and whiie an aitis'io llvtip.e
ii- well enough as n deioratloti. yet
lamp" which in theuiselvis .11 good
and suitable will not In satistactory
from a ay gii tile standpoint uincss tin
tlx turn-, ate ri the rlulrt po-itum lii
lil.inulng fn i'bimuiai mi of a -00m
It Is only camnion s, ,.e to ieeimn
.lust what jo'i ate going to i-i t,n'
room for, and then to iri.mg. tin
:gbtliic lly 'io tin this 0 saiaild
posslbi. fr ,,ople of niiild.i age (o
mill veal'., of .xi client evesight which
ol',ienvl-e wo. id s,,oii dtmiiiisii When
children of various ages are 111 a fam
ily tho matter of artillriat Hunt Is of
great hnpni'iiinct The general health
ot a glowing buy m- gill may be -tioitsly
alfected by careless lighting
espeiially In loom., wline tliey read
or study tin .r lessons.
In r nt v nrs 'hkhus .f n. a tb ,dl
ovi r the 1 ittitry I.1V1 coiiie so nun h
imprcss.-il wit t 1 mpoiianec of
ptopir tig. din 1 veil 1..1111.11 sunliglit,
that ws at) euloiieit strictly n.s to
the placing of windows n public
? eh""'"
r.'-fi s -t -

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