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I g ' 4 THE SUN, SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER' 21, 1919..
. ' ' FRENCH GIRLS' ; COSTUMES MATCH MADNESS IN' DANCING Extreme- Types Range From Bathing Suits- to Chain Mail Frocks While All Paris Goes in for Jazzing New Skirts Are Longer and Wider Than Those of Last Winter arid Have Immense Bulges Over the Hips Paws, September 11. A MAN has wrltton a book called "When Paris Laughed." Some ono ought to write a book, "When Parle Dances." Sho dances from 3 o'clock In the afternoon until after midnight She woars her best clothes while she does it. And In that dancing, the phases of It, the philosophy and psychology of it, there are features that are historical and' sentimental. Ono might sayf It was a safety device, this dancing. It Is not merely a fashionable whim. It Is not an extravaganco that Is linked up with, clothes and supper parties. It has nothing to do with the drinking of champagne- It Is not a device of pleasure arranged by professionals who want to make money. Ah, no. It goes far deeper than that Into the very soul and spirit of Franco. It Is the opinion of eminent medical men that It is a substitute for hysteria; Paris might cry and wring her hands, mtscht arguo and quarrel and rebel, if the nation had been kept entirely quiet, without any vivid form of actlvo amusement after peace was signed. Four years of a strain thaf has rarely been put upon numon people left Its mark on tho nervous system. AH Europe, the women as well as the men. bore the strain with' out flinching, without IctUng go, but jt took every vital power that was in them to keen them from going into somo form of national hysteria or mnlnncholla. The strain was ' suddenly released when tho armistice was signed. It found Its vent in dancing. As an ln dividual who hears a pleco of good for tune, who knows that a great trlbu latlon has ended, wants to Jump up and shout, so a nation acts when an intolerable burden has been lifted from the shoulders. There aro many forms of amuse mcnt In which Paris might have in dulsred when the guns ceased to roar and the wounded ceased to arrive. But they were expensive forms ot pleasure, And mnnv of them required passivity; thi.v did not call for activity. Paris hnf. te 1umo ud and shout, so what did she do? By common accord, with nut anv nrearranged plan, she took up the American dance called the "Jazz," and through this leaping, twisting, turning, savage dancing she found re lief ta her overstrained nerves. The tnr.gb did not suit her. It was too stately, too sinuous, too quiet The American army had been entertained by Jazz dancers for over a year, and tho French considered it the American national dance, and they took to it like a balloon to tho air. They exag gerated It. They saw in it a form of activity almost as violent as running, swimming and playing tennis. They Danced In the Street. The common peoplo started this tidal wave of dancing the night the armistice was announced. For months i after tho streets were the free and easy place In which to dance. From the Place de la Republlque to the further roost stretches of the Latin Quarter and upward to the terraces of Montmartre couples swirled to tho music of ac cordions, of little trumpets, of fiddles. Girls danced with girls, old couples Joined in the gayety, whllo tho young ones applauded. All through tho color ful groups, like a streak of rust, were the brown khaki clad American dough boys. Not only the private, mind you. Everything less than a General takes part and one need not be too sure that in some secluded shadow In a tree filled boulevard a General does not take his chance with wimo French or American girl. The smart women of Paris do not dnnco In the streets, but they would like to do It It is whispered that sev eral of tho gay set, that leads what Is known as smart society over hero, copy Mario Antoinette In putting on the disguise 'of quiet, shabby clothes and going to the Boulovard St Oer maln and the Boulevard Montparnosse to dance with their Intimate friends. They like the glitter and color of the streets, the long line of little cafes With the green tables, blue elphons, and non-Intoxicating drinks. The American boys dp ntt coro to dance as much with the American girls, as they thread their way Into the groups at each corner, as with the little French girls, who have the spirit of mischief and vivacity. The tango and tho Jazz have no popularity In the street dancing. The polka and the schottlsche rule. The rasn with the accordion stands on a bench and plays that wild mad muslo that ono hears in the mountains of Kentucky, where John Fox's people dance the whole flight Strolling fiddlers go through tho streets, fol lowed by men nnd women who sud denly surround them and break loose into capricious dancing, laughing and singing as they dance. Every one sings. The spectators on the pave ments, seated in the little green chu'rs under tho trees, sing in or out of harmony with the dances. "Women lean out from the windows above and shout approval or personalities down to tho shifting kaleidoscopic crowd and Join in the singing. Up on the Butto of Montmartre where one can get a delicious dinner for one-third tho prlco asked In tho Bals, that Montmartre which is domi nated by the church of the Sacred ttaur, where Louise is supposed to have sung to Julian from her.wlndow, whefe the children, play around th6 tables. In, th-treVthor. comes the fiddler, sometimes old nnd weird, sing ing folk song or a troubadour bal lad, and up Jump tho people from the tables, students, Journalists, tourists, and dance. Far below lies tho city of Paris, with Its myriad lights glitter ing through the mass of dark green trees that look like a cloud, Us blaz ing bridges and church spires outlin ing tho drift of the Seine. It's a fairyland place to danco. There is thrill in it. too. for one has a feel ing that a falso step might send one rolling to tho bottom of tho Martyr's Mountain. Sradylnir the People. Tho people who danco on these streets, especially those in tho Latin Quarter, are worth study. They came from all parts of France. They have little in common with Paris, some times speaking a patois that cannot ill III i I ! Taffeta frock; the bodice is tight fitting1 and skirt has out standing folds faced with contrasting color. bo understood by the Parisians. They dance the dances of their country. There is one cafe with a stretch of tree shadowed street in front of it where the dancers are from Limou sine, that province of France where they still believe that the werewolf steals nuns and these nuns return to tear their sisters apart These people from Limousine dance and cry out like wolves in the street before their cafe and shout aloud their odd patois while their muslo whines through bagpipes, punctuated by the staccato notes of a fiddle, a muslo that sounds sinister and mountain bred. There are other long stretches of pavement, where the dancers are from Alsace. Tho women wear their national costume, the bows on their heads a large as windmills. They pranco and minuet and bow to each other .and swirl round and round like spinning tops. Drifting an through the streets and dancing in their own way are the Tunisians, the Algerians, the Arabs, who came for the Victory Parade. Their odd costumes make them conspicuous far down the street, and immediately they begin to dance the crowd rushes toward the men, who wear the graceful white burnous over the Roman gold cloth skirt and thrust their feet into gold slippers without heels; Jthese are, tho Arabians and Moroccans who rode gayly capar isoned white horses with manes and tails that fell to the ground and who when they came into the visions of the millions that lined the boulevards on the fourteenth of July received a tremendous ovation. Dnnclnlr In the Humes. Tho dancing that has persisted In Paris is not as picturesque in the houses as in tho streets. It is quite as violent The most subdued Coun tess and demure Duchess does not find herself undignified In Jazzing from one end of a ballroom to the other, .keeping time with wild music. She dresses for the part. Sho and all hei followers in smart society eliminate clothing. much as the law permits, although there may be nr law on thU point in France. 'Corsetless, with ltnoo length skirts and partial' bodices, they seem to have been got up for the part of Doraldlna, the Hawaiian dancer. The bare legs that have appeared at the smart restaurants have not ap peared in smart houses, but the stock ings aro so transparent that it is dif ficult to say whether tho leg is cov ered or uncovered. The degroe of dif ference is so slight that one Is sure modesty did not suggest the stock ings. When the tango is danced it Is no longer tho pre-war tango that was vividly stamped on the world's mind by the opening chapters of tho "Four Horsemen ot the Apocalypse." No longer do slim young Argentln lans dominate tho danco. Returned young French officers, gay in their blue uniforms and with the colorful fourragcres around their shoulders, their breasts covered with ribbons and medals, are the men who give added significance to the dancing. They have left the guns to tread a measure, and they swing themselves violently Into the American Jazz as though they were going over the top and into tho Prus sian Guard. Socially speaking, there has been nothing else but dancing in the way of amusement since tho first of Janu ary. XJne danced at teas, at weddings, at chYistejiiiijs, between the courses of dinner, before and after uupper and then a "bit more for lagnlappe, "I ex pect," said a General in Paris, "at any big dinner party to see ihi footmen suddenly start dancing and serve tho dishes as they Jazz about tho table." "It would be rather a good idea." re sponded a young Duchess; ''It would .at loast creato a sensation. I will begin to have my footman give Jazz lessons at once and spring tho surprlso on Paris." It Is said that Marshal Foch has never danced at any of tho cartles where he was a guest of honor, but he Is one of the few famous officers who has not entered into the gayety. Gen. Pershing dances' at all parties. He dances well and only selects t5o young, the slim, and-the expert daneers, after he has finished his duty dan'ces. The young officers regard him with terror and a trace of Irritation. He does not hesitate, they say, to break in on their dances, and If a Lieutenant and a Gen eral both ask the same girl to danc the Lieutenant becomes a wallflower. Many are the stories told of the ounger officers' sly attempt to outwit Gen. Pershing. They have found to their sorrow, however, that when Gon. Pershing takes his partner on tho bal cony between dances tho girl does not always have the courage to remind tho Commander of tho A. K. F. that the music is starting for the next dance and sho 1ms it taken by a young Lieu tenant The dancing of Paris Is not confined to the streets, even though tho for eigner finds In It the most interesting Ermine wrap worn over gown of green velvet which is caught under at the hem, giving of green tulle flares out at each long ends. phase of Paris life this first peace sum mer. The restaurants are not espe cially attractive for dancing If one ex cepts the Apollo, the Hotel MacMahon and Clarldges. Here ono sees good gowns, extreme costumes and all the fantastic accessories and caprices of the hour. Chu-Chln-Chow is the name of a restaurant run by Mile. Gabanel, to which French girls come chape- roned In the afternoon. They often "Whisper to good looking young Amer ican officers to say to their chaperons that they were introduced at such and A fold of gold tissue forms posed gold and black aigrettes. such a house, then spend the rest of the afternoon foxtrotting and one stepping with the members of the A. E. F. Tho most exclusive place opened in Paris after peace ' Is a garden for dancing on the Avenue Victor Emmanuel III., which once was Hhe Avenuo d'Anttu. Here is a wonderful garden, owned by Paul Polret, which haa been for four years a playground, for convalescent soldiers. The transi tion from pain to pleasure Is signifi cant Hero Is veritable excluslveness. It should be, as the price of 20 franca entrance fee per person and wine at 10 a bottle keeps out a crowd. The members ot the leading smart set In Paris may not go to this garden to dance, for they do not adopt the American and English custom of dancing in public, but thoso who will not go to any public place to dance as a rule will go to L'Oasls, which is the name of tho new danco. garden. Here there are trees, brilliant tables In red, purple and yellow, grass walks and a platform enclosed by a stone wall, trees and trelllsed sides. Tho dancing on the platform Is dimly lit by incandescent moons that hang from the trees and to amuse the guests there is a barrage of sliver fire thrown over the garden as one throws colored confetti. Hero one sees smartly put up French soldiers and extravagantly dressed French' women. Americans apd English are conspicuously nbsent; this Is why the French go to it and oven permit their young girls to go with chaperons. Not only do u nnuple have to pay 15 to 'enter, but a liveried sentry who stands at the small garden e . . gats kIvm every one the searching trouser effect. A large bow side of the waist and falls in glance of a sentry, and a Mile, leans out of a sentry box as one enters to request that the name and address be signed in a book which Is placed on a reading stand, Nobody In New York has been able to achieve this type of distinction; the nearest approach to It Is the Club de VIngt in New York. There are club f members to L'Oasls who pay 400 francs a month, which Is about $60. And yet even at this price, which would be an Impossibility In America, the land of tho multimillionaire, tho the bandeau, and in front are new place Is crowded every night with the French. There seems to Im plenty of money in this city for pleas. ure. Our American boys rebel at pay ing the price, even If they choose to go, but no French officer seems to find It excessive. It 'a theso curious con ditions in Franco to-day that make this summer the most interesting season In the memory of the oldest tourist. Ametflcnna nnZ French Glrla. Anent tho question of the popu larity of a place where tho A. E. F. dr 4 not go Is the fact that the French women prefei' to danco with the American men. This Is a cause of minor friction between tho allied forces. They fraternize better In the trenches than they do at dances. Ono night we motored over to a French town for a dance. A number of Amer ican officers were there. They arrived at the dance without a girl. Each of the Frenchmen brought a girl with a chaperon. Half nn hour after thq dance began each American had a French girl. The French soldiers sat In a row against the wall, looking ns glum as though they were In dugouts. An American jvoman dubbed them "the wall flowers of France," and tho name sticks. , Tho French soldier never peases to talk about tho manner in which tho American soldier takes nil the girls In the place. They quarrel with tho French women on tho subject, only to 1 answered by the retort that tho American men are moro attractive. Tho sad1 truth must bo met, however, by tho American woman tjiat the Frenchman does not find her attrac tive, docs not ask her to danca and pays slight attention to her. There fore the American women Insist that they aro between tho devil and tho deep bluo sea. Tho newest form of dancing reminds tho American of that successful play "Upstairs and Down," for beach danc ing has been started at Trouvlllo and Deauville. An American girl Is cred ited with tho idea. - Sho gavo a party to which tho guests came in bathing suits with warm peignoirs to protect them. It was on tho sands, tho music an accordion band. Supper was served around fires. Since then thero have been Im promptu parties which slip out of tho hotels and villas to go to secluded spots on tho beach, where a vlctrola or a few accordions provide tho music. The French women wear sandals with their bathing suits, without stockings, so thero Is no difficulty in dancing. It is a- wonder somo one did not In vent this method of amusing one's self at midnight in the historic period that followed tho" ending of "the Ter ror." It Is strange, or perhaps normal, that tho peace summer In Paris Is nearly a repetition of the peace sea son that followed tho downfall of Robespierre. Then, as now, the wo men dlscaruea domes until they reached tho Irreducible minimum, and they danced madly for a year at all hours after midday. Thero was street dancing, riotous oigles in tho old palaces, and tho famous balls of tho guillotine. To theso only those were invited whose families had been executed; they wore their hair, cut after tho manner called the "victims' coiffure," and they tied a thin scarlet ribbon about their necks to suggest the severing of the head from tho body by the knife. Mme. Talllen, who was the hostess of the Luxembourg under tho Ulrectolre, led tho dancing and the fashion for half nudity, but thero Is no leader to-day. There is no leader In I I I Furs-thus establish! fl SI JHIfiillll I harmony of line between I I all the phases of costume. I jH iHH Illustrative of this achieve- I ffl W 111 111! tnentour current Exhibit is I H In IS 111 PI P -1W. V" f the beautiful L peace, as thero was. no one person who dominated Paris Just before the war. It is tho day of mass movement In society as In other things. It is shown in clothes. For Instance, at all these dances there Is no ono uniform stylo of dressing. Tho ono originality brought to tho situation Is the bathing suit, wltlr Its splendid Arabian wrap and sandalled feet which is worn at tho beach dances. It. would not be surprising If something would come out of this new pastime. At the other dances there is a ten dency toward chain mall frocks or those of brilliant silver tissue. , Tho change in the skirt is not a novelty to Americans, for It shows the immenso bulges on each side, over the hips, with flat back and front This is ac cepted by all tho French women as the best stylo for dance frocks. The new skirts aro longer and wider than those worn last'wlnter, but they will r.ot get appreciably longer until the French women relinquish tho high heeled sandal slipper, with Its ribbons or bracelets that go around the leg half way to tho knee. Bright green satin made ono of tho new frocks featured at a garden dance. It has a tight bodice, immense pan niers mado like umbrella folds, and a hem that Is wide enough for free movement This frock is untouched by tulle, embroidery or any kind of ornament except a tiny dash of scarlet which gives It distinction. Another interesting feature, of these danco gewns, especially those worn by tho smart French woman, although she may not be In society, Is the odd cape that han.;s from the back of tho neck to tho waist": It is of metallic tissue or oxydlzcd silver, tarnished gold or bright steel. It Is gathered to a tight necklace at the back or suspended from a chain that goes straight across tho back of the shoulders, ending- at each shoulder strap. This cape does not cover the JK3 entlro oxpanao of bare nock at th. back, for It is gathered Into a stralsfif panel that hangs from the nape of the neck, botween tho shoulder blades, to tho waist. Young girls wear this cap In exceedingly thin silver net with an open mesh and tho hem weighted with" silver or pink roses. Tho Idea is one of protection as weJW as of beauty, for when a Fronoh woman stops dancing sho pulls It out over tho shoulder and arms. It is a good Idea, don't you think? FUIlS AND FEATHERS. From the dawn or human hlstorr' furs and feathers have been used to satisfy our taste and need for clothing, and adornment Our most prlmltlvV ancestors were connoisseurs in the plumage of birds and the pelts of. animals and admired them for their possibilities In furnishing himself and his family with raiment and adorn" ment, and so do we. This season, more than for many seasons, feathers aro to be used with lavlshness for hat trimmings, and per haps because of tho Increased prlco ofr good furs feathers aro to be used som- times where otherwise fur would.have been used. Sometimes we' And a row of fluffty ostrich tips forming thecollir' of a capo or cosey lounging robe, an there are bands of ostrich or swans down on evening gowns and capes where otherwise we would have found fur. -n In spite of the increased price of fur coats there is every reason to btllevt that they will be sold In as large num" bers as ever, and surely those that are now ready for the autumn monthi are very tempting. A luscious coat, of seal shows by way of a new touch, a belt of colorful ribbon. Other models have ribbon belts, and if you aro having your old fur coat mad over you. might likewise have a ribbon belt