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BiBSCiSa'syiffiAB&? flWMi1!lKi fxei?) HV3Ti r W(ffl aawtra9.,,-;ivMKBr.wv.,.'?rwi rjY,5CM,.'rjviA'rj7ir.i?! S$fmMS wmwmmsw mm- - - . n'ri" i "w ' .! iii(s'rU"j.(?rf ni"f'.'r -,-.- w'tiryinii.' v.-u - i ' r.f": i - ' VbIi'. . . . - - ' a iVW rO i? 77iT tfOP&S1 TO MAKE DAME FASH 10 0 TO COMMON SENSE, NOT FADS AND FANCIE, wm n'jCi'A '"O; J&g Frank Alvah Parsons Braves jVeman 's Demain by Caustic Philippic Against Custom pED clothes 6n a wemanhavc the same effect as a brass band in a small room. ' , A Jeweled buckle and a wad of cloth applied te the left hip adorn a blifnk space en the human body that does net cry out for need of decoration. Hats are for protection, net obstruction! Street, shopping and church .clothes should be seen, but they certainly shouldn't be heard. ' One of the reasons for clothes is the instinct for privacy. Eve con ceived the idea. At different times in history it has been apparent in the concept of clothe. But at present? ? ? 7 ? Pausing for breath, it is time te say a mere man, dm! a bachelor at that, has had the courage te gather up all these words and hurl them in a boir.bsneii unniram ai mere wuiu Just new the bombshell is relling: down Fifth avenue and causing per turbation in many quarters, but Frank Alvah Parsons, artist, writer and art professor, doesn't mind. He isn't afraid. He just leans forward In his Leuis XV chair, acquires' another geed-humored glimmer in his keen gray eyes and fires this elie: " "And a woman, "mind yeuj weul i rather take a chance en the here-j after than being called old- fashioned." Decidedly, he isn't afraid. Prof, Parsons, who has been busier than I the President of the United States i turning away interviewers since that recent afternoon when ha mounted a lecture platform and said what h- thought about women's clothes, has the courage of his convictions. He can tell you why, when and hew. If he tears down with one hand, he builds up with the ether. He has a clothes creed. It isn't piffle. It might be called p?yche-analyz-ing clothes. Finding the why in them is' a plainer way of saying it. Has Clethes Creed and Isn't Afraid If he were that nert of a chap, he might go te the housetops and shout' out a message and the mes sage would sound like this: First. Thcenust be a crying need for decoration before any decoration should he Ufcd. It would seem pos sible te have certain blank spaces en the human body unadorned, with out any noticeable cry of pain en the pait of the spot. Second. Decoration should never interfere with use. Shoes in which one cannot walk, dresses in which one cannot step, clothes in which one cannot breathe and hats that nobody can see past would seem te come under this law. Third. Decoration should fellow structure. The human figure ap pears te be bounded by curved lines. Inasmuch as it is possible te fellow theie lines without overdoing the matter, we shall be within this. law. Any fashion that distorts human proportion is anti-artistic. But in every man's English and In the straightaway style Prof. Parsons likes best te put it, he says in the last essence women's clothes are hound up in three things, sim plicity, consistency and common Ml. Who hns schooled Prof. Parsons for Ms courageous calling? Ne one knows. One inspects a pnlr of twinkling but B gray eyes. SuspectB them of peer w out the windows of a meter by y as It advances slowly through the trafflc of Fifth nrenue: by night as It whirls mere swiftly past the lighted shop windows or pnues for the Inpntir lug of fnshlen herself into the thentres Of the "Rnnring Portion." lie Is exec uHre in chief of nn nrt school In Pnrli. He Is president of the New Yerk Scheel of Fine nml Applied Art. Ten years' nge he wrote u bonk en the psychology of dress, in the meantime he has hud classes innumerable lit Columbia Uni versity. At present he lins it class lit New Yerk University, with 11)7 pupils for only 1113 chairs. 8eekl.i nn interview with the much talked. of Prof. Parsons wns an adven ture of no mem; proportions. At 71!) I'lfih avenue Mr. Par-en was net in home. William M. Oilum, who shires the tantalizing apartment, with It: vistas of lovely yellows nml soft urn, ,iih wlm U active lieail of the "flioel in pris, wi,H. . butler moved bark in the well-proportioned shadow. It was the next day before it was Wlble te take the next step in the luecem of seeing a niiicli-seught-uficr BMifcuiiiii. H s, if jeu will, ten thirty In the morning. The hunsbl.ic 11,1,1 'i''1'"" Hrimilwn streams m and ''amen about a bit In a waltinic mum f the tut school One sits en a bench tuuiile a fateful deer. A kmdi rattle. .Mcmeile.s of the artistic apartment persist. Would the MMluuail weui a flowing tie? He did net. Critic of Weman's Mede h Sternly Masculine I'runk Alvah Parsons, nnlst, writer d tt-ut'her of note. Imue.l ,..n...i.. 'rem . threshold of hl office, but the weriifki feminine eje, retaliating in the name 0f her M L,M,K1 ,u,,t W(J flirt fault wllh. The figure that Meed 'Mn doorway was tall, bread of build let hUlliellflvu lln. .... I . if fttrenciiH, Thn suit w .u.b . rTT.tH'. ,"u.J1w,M 'k itemed te me that of "":"rfn that it'waa.kartuBhJth.ntheaMatTrtal.; flj that U'wm hard u, tu. What Mr. Parsons Says About Seme Fashions QLOTHKS are for privacy. Eve thought of it. Seme peo ple de new. A pcail expanse of bitik'e en tlie left hip' could ithrhik without being vihncd. away Red en a woman ii like a brass band. A waist line four inches above the knee, emphasized with a chain, may be fashionable, but it's net artistic. Decoration should be applied at point of particular interest where attention is te be directed. Thus brlght-hued stocking with chicks en 'em. A four-feet three-inch woman can get away with lets vege tables, fruits, plumes, rhincstenc buckles, earrings and laces than a six-feet woman, but net with much less. A woman would rather take a chance en. the hereafter than en being out of fashion. Fans ought te show where the gray ma'ter is stored. Hence hair mattresres at the back of the head and wads ever the cars te decrease the size of the fore head. color; the shirt and cellar te match were b'ue and white pinstripe. Shoes somberly blnek. Hnir gray and closely trimmed. 1lere thnn nnythina eNe In the world he looked like u banker a successful bnnkcr. New. one usually expects Interviews en the subject of wivneii's clothes te start, run and finish en these flowing robes the (Ireek ladies used te wear. The mind roved te laurel In the hair, tnndnls en the feet and girdles loosely fettered. I'ref. Pnrsens .smashed tradition squarely in the eye In the beginning by snylng : "Of course, they were lovely nnd graceful, but we're net Greeks. What women want in clothes Is fitness, suit ability for the nge In which they live. Ilring It down nearer than that. They want te wear the right thing nt the right time each day they de live. Tit ness is as much a matter of nrt us beauty, and In clothes wrll, goodness knows we need it. They nut evening dresses en the shop girl nnd plumes ei. the buslncsc girl. We bring tlie tkatlug rink into the drawing room and the drawing room into the skutlng rink. "Short people wenr bread things and tall ones weur long things. Where's the fitness or reiisen In that? Horizontal lines Increase width nnd decrease height nt the same time. Conversely, vertical ones should, increase height nnd decrease width. "De you knew what? A short, wide person wearing n bread, lint hut. with a joke dress and a co'ered belt and skir stepping at the kuees. re minds one of nothing less than u closed concertina. Say Women Will Put Rules Inte Effect "Ah seen as you get this law of the i .i. f..... ti.t.. u iiiimii hi nnflflu ' U'llV niKl WHITI'MiTt- "" -. ; tlievVe wiliie te applv It te them-elve.s. Women are wonderful these days. Yeu , iVmxv it's enlv thete last few jeurs I hev've eve,' had .'iu.nee. It wi.sn't . fnshlouable for tnem ,e win mint," um for themselves before. They were tee busv warming slippers and tending babies. New I repeat, they re won derful. Yeu can't beat em. Ihey corner you. They won't let you get bj. They want te knew why. Always why. . .. . ... , "I suppose one reason is that It 8 nn nge of psjcholegy nnd psycho analysis. Psychology means the work ing of the mind In regiud te iinj thing. And psychoanalysis '11,1"' out what t lie ciitise is and treating the cause, .lust as seen as some one puts It into tlie beads of women te upply cause and effei't te their clothes they re going te de it. .,,., i , "Once u woman gels it Inte her head te de something, no one can get it out again. Once teach her the relationship of art unil nn evening drew, and she'll KMr Parsons leaned ferwurd a little eagerly in his chair. "Let's get te the bottom of this thing. De you realize there never was a time in the history nf our Natien where the esthetic sense was reused as It li reused new. Art used te bit u fad, a frill, a drawing lewxni or a pic lure ten years age. New It s being sought eh a universal possession in evervthing. Take tlm movies, take mi mi mi toinebiles, 'take liauses, hotels, clothes. The answer N that art itself Is an answer In umterittls-te what the public needs. The ail of tin' teiniilii In the hiuh (ireek period reached Its highest state because temples were what people needed and what they thought about. The nrt of the salon reached its great state in tlm eighteenth century hecniibe that's what the peepln wanted then, "New It's our present-day interests that cry out for attention, Ami; it K U' J t' & - -il ' ' rfVFangrZ8t&tK. 'i ! v,. Hair ornaments and wndH ever the ear decrease the width of the forehead, and that'fi where the brain is supposed te be! LK SiE jry. fcT, m l'e.ipi-.titic I tint orchard:, au.p one's head and rope chains dangling from the neck are anathema in Prof. Parson's cede are the most personal and through in-1 lerest in tiiem the people ale mere easily reached. Applies Basic Art te Rules for Dress "New let's net buck te the ueiieral i purposes of nit. Prof, l'arvuis settled feriablj In his cliuir himself mere mmferiablj In his .hnir and drew nh."i.t -minded designs en u blotter s be lulked. Theie are two, fitness and be,,,,.,. I'im,- is .eally , ne toiinitiiijeu et taste nml taste is what America is licenced of net hav ing." He looked up. "Isn't It true. though? If taste is Illness, where is the tnste of furs worn in the heat e1 summer, of lace stockings worn in the blast of wlnterV" be dlgiesseil, "Ami where is the tusle of the jeiiiig woman who stands en n corner and powders her nose or rouges her lips In public': Or where is the taste of the jeiiiig woman wlie holds hands with her 'steady' in front of the public library? "Hut te return te the subject, the second part of art Is bcautj and we nri) accused of net knowing this when we see It. What we ought te de is' knew the laws that govern the ex-1 pressien of beauty Just as we de these . that govern music or ailllimelic." Summing up, Prof. Parsons then briefly but tellingly made this Indict ment against Fashion. He made n sweeping gesture with his well -shaped hiiliil. "Fighting against art with its. fitness mil its beiiutj is llutt old enemy nf mankind, piuticul.irly womankind, called 'Fiuhliiii.' "The gii'iitc-l enui.y of common sense, judgment and art Is called Fiibli Fiibli ien. It is nn enemy because It seeks te impose en the Individual will th will of u inferior person or Idea. It nlse rccegiiUcti that everjbedy is.gev. erned morn or less hj fear. Whj, n woman would intlicr take a chniice en the hereafter than en being called old fashioned. If some one says, 'Loek at her, they did that last jenr,' slm Is crushed for life. "The ether ally nf fashion is van ity. There Isn't really a human woman who doesn't roll in glory when she hears. 'Isn't she chic, or she lias the yery latest' thing in a coat.' " The UepHtaaed a bit and tbeufht and' tapped tl t&l WKrmi AT I RJ5I1 n n M' Decoration should be applied at the point of particular intereat where the attention in te be directed. "Therefore the buckled?" queries the critic desk with his pencil. "I'lishlen knows all this ami a let mere." He spoke Impulsively. "Why. Fash ion ought te be the hand-mniden of woman and net woman the cutspaw of Fnshlen!" Pre!'. Parsons' teice s New Knir amlen;. "Who's Who in America" lists his birthplace ns Chesterfield. Mass. Ills tones were pleasant te listen te, even when feeling for his subjett uiiiili' them till the small office, ihere was then no discomfort in this interview only a vague fear that kept rising iu the threat. One wuh u woman. One were clothe. ) Qua had XJ. w.'jySES" J?.V?I3ntFt: Om Mt Hint feet awt i f,r,,, DUm. ivlw- vX.i.. t 'Z ipffnt ii u ft i ij A " - "fKMvTMmu ill t-2ai gm w 'T '" ' Toe man: clothes are nv bad as tee few, is the xcrdict here ,p.. ''fH""Z; S2 :fyM is ' 1 '&7Jmf' V- ' tien fellow slructuie? Oh, timught net te be downed. Was decoration in terfering with use A wdce Intel riipted. It was an nn swer le a question that had been put a few minutes before. Asks 'Why Are Clethes?' and Has Own Answer "Whj are clothes'.' Well, there are three legitimate teasens for clothes only. First the instinct for shelter." The voice paused Its posxesser looked at the ceiling, "That's why peepln put en sur cuius, eipu m Ind up their whale fuee 4 bedlei wktn It la Junatry It and go out njpm awMaf ajit -trick A short, wide person with a bread, flat hut and a skirt stepping at the knees resembles a closed concertina, nays the professor i'ref. Parsons, .'lie has ideas of his own en clothes, id the woman . EK!i &&' & "; An oval fate with hair neatly but net I'unmIv dressed is a thing of beauty and joy forcer shoes. active. The instinct theie. but net 'A second reason is found m the instinct for privacy. llw. niucelved the idea. At different times i hNterj It has been nppaicnt in the uuicept of clothes. But at pi ut- -"Theie were mi words najwheie around te describe what Prof. Pa, -oils thought et the pi cent. There wns an Interiuptieu jnt lieie. lhe telephunu raii- It w.is Mi, , "lioed meritlng, Mj,s w ," dis-, appeared into the black mouthpiece et tie teiepm e ."I'm perlV.t .' He p.med. "Theie is :1 feunh law. n ?! i Ii""1 , w","l " te Ih.H.r.uiiui should I ppllcl a tl, disturb them us long as we lhe it ,. p.iiiicular niteiel wh e the lour humlred and lilt) women:" attention ,e be .luce. ed.' T nt 1 bellee it. He laughed. "I knew it." white shoes wlth black clothes ..," The rerciwr did net s,...u. te be i,iiiilkn,llngs with dark blue iicsc-. Imgi' down when the telephone ranir hlmIh. pendants steiiplng en the iibdoiinei nml nine ii'iiiii-r weie walling iiowu iiewu stalls e see Prof. Parsons. "Veu uiuv sty I uui out of town tuilellnitelv," lie iiistritcicd. ' ' ............. ... . . "What a life. hack in bis cliai he sighed ns he sank lie gave us a third reason for .1 unliei'iil desire for beiiiilv, lethcs "Nrange as it may seem, thai is what people think they hi,e nchleved." lie aiuplilicil. "(,'lethcs exist n.i mil te enhance personality,. strengthen ll', iimKe.H mere atiraetlve and effective. .,.. Iiji nut manm k. -. i ' : ut they also it,4, a huaua ant," bmW ' ' hai tL (Z ".i1 j 'SSt tin. a. n.artrnT.VTJeH.lTtJd uress as ieu Comfortable and Loek Well,. Net te "Bern Style, "He Says is possible under the circumstances Any fashion that distorts human pro portion is Inartistic. When jeu move the waistline four Inches above the knees and eiiiplinsl.e It with n chain se that from the waistline is one and n hnlf times as long ns from there te the gteund, It tnny be fashionable, but It certainly Isn't urtistlc. ".Lines, that's the story. That's learning the why of the beauty in clothes. That's getting nt the science of them. Horizontal lines for tall peo ple who wish te decrease height and increase width. Vertical lines for short ones who want te work It the ether way nreiind." Knows Technical Terms of the Dressmaker One marveled ut a mere man who could de what Prof. Parsons did next. Hut we nre u witness. Clearly nnd seeming te knew exnetly what they meant, he sat there nnd ticked off en his fingers these terms, plaits, Inser tion, hems. , "These are lines." lie said, "that rnn be made valuable In resteting th human proportion. This is decoration, but perhaps there is nothing in art that Is less understood thnn that word dei oration." Then he summed up the Inws of dec dec dec oratien ns laid down centuries nge by Leonarde da Vine! nnd said they had never been Improved en. K-aw"" I. ";v"W , nn fPHBMw Hips de net cry out for ornamentation, se why decorate them queries the critic. Hats were made te bW b and past, he adds "The first law is 'There must be a stibii-et nf tl... ,..,i.i. . ctying need of il-oeratioti before air. I, , ,M "Mdeltatnm by women diceriitiiin should be used.' It weul'l ' "' ""'" ,m'-v wear. s.,.m pessihl,. te have lertnln blank, "Ne weniun ought." he said, "care te tlMlls. Ikll till! Illllllflll lL..jlt 1 I . . . ' " l .' ' in-M Willi l 1 1 111', u f unit urn nnti. ...iM.. i.i.t ... ...i . ,. .. v r. 1.:;.'.; .... :. ...v.. rr ..viiXiirni 'i..ii, ' ! -. ' iiiiiii if en piled te the left hip in wn.U f elethes. tin liiicKles or oilier iii. iti rials would seem tit be applied te n spot that it is net altogether essential te dieerate, 'Wie prevailing mode of sinking en jewcli d pins, huiid-emhieidi nil panels, tin ii ornament-, iimieii.ils en h.its inUlil he Juihisl bj tills inle without pi'iu te the siilinct iieateil "The second 'iw is 'I tei oration should never iiueifm. with u-e.' "And the thud, 'l ration .should fellow stnict . 'Pli,. Iiiininii figure appears te he hounded l' curved lines. IMiigeiml lines fi one shoulder te the ether, ng :u- tnseiicd innteriiils like laces or insertions or applie I tniu llllllg, whose lines seem te be sint.nling te find where tlie liu t the hum. in iieilj me gi iug, uii iiUii luhaiuioiiteus. Decoration Important te Teut Ensemble such like "Decoratien: lie mused almost te himself. "A four-feet Ihieclnch weui.in wcighiii'j llll pouieN can uct IIWIIJ successfully with less vegetables, fiuils. plitiues, rhlucsteue buckles, cur lings, Mlrii'tlus of haves ihaii a sis lint woman weighing 1MI, hut there is n liuuentiiltle chance for either (u get iiwiij with mere than they can." Having done with Hie properllou of ni the face. Hie body, I'rel. PaiHeiiH tinned in ibe.se "A race mlit te be mere liupeit- . .. T ":r, ,. , its" oneuia w net Then pcepltVi'j h n innnnef $fi widest part nt the top. .'iriau?i their hnir In such that the face seems like u circle, an ellipse or nn oblong nnd the proportion of the ideal human fnce hns beMl ruined. It is inartistic te nrrnnge th hnir in nny manner which doesn't giw the best proportioned oval face n cluinct te express Itself. "Hnir mattresses back of the head or wads ever the ear decrease thi width of tlie forehead In nppenranee, nnd that's the part of tlie head when the gray matter is supposed te be le cnted." Celer came net in discussion. "Kvery tone of color." Prof. I'nr- , sons pointed out, "hns something te say for itself. People de net think of fire, mi August sun or nn athlete's bleed M being baby blue or pink or mauve. Xfi are se constituted that red excites) Irritates nr-d it should be used te ex-pres- that idea. Toe Much Celer Like Toe Large a Band "A brass band of 100 pieces In a 12x14 room Is net essential te tht knowledge that musle is going en," waa this artist's way of putting it. "Neither is a red sweater, a red hat, or a red dress of fullest Intensity in the same small room unless there is n color deaf ness en the part of these present. In summing up his clothes creed for women. Prof. Parsons dwelt en tht "y WSm a z. s w mm tWHBi ' j IH'I' JJ (I Sltl Ml ,,,,. tit t ... ... I" ' "l fiUJtHT of ttv telcst In.. Sireii. hopping inn i rni rui. .i,.i... i. ..ii , l... ,, ,.;.".'" H "V l'"r. I, i ". '"" l "'".unij net l erhaps the tiK.st B,bl,. point Iieani. hats , tien n " l,1,,"1,,"l,1". net an ehstruc- Lr"",,, '' '"i"81" '" l" !1 -n-i-t.'iit ag- t 7. !' '.""' "!! '"' ."M-ressoe, of the I ; , ''-'iiei(. nun iiiineini ""in th" sinmlpeini ,.t,,., milegj or allliieiici. " 'lllKiieill beiany, Mr. Parson, believes ( s ,,.,. ,)mt women ,, ess most , ,Hllril(, !, ' "J 'I Het IIIVV tlie l,l.. I... I ..' ."' i liens ... ." , '. "' ee "'"I me II1K IllhCIISSi tne mm- I' I "llll IUOISllls of hi own sex. that ii is ii iiilst.iKi. or 'tllllt clothes wbl, I, women I,, believe e liti.lt ....ll.. .1- Httinet Men. he finds. , '... i e et i..l., i. .. . - '""' "'l'- - ,,l'i e.ii i iir want with mil as,nin,e.' Here Is Platform Put in Few Words In its last llll.llws ,s idalferm this (leihes ,,. iM )ht personal of nil tlltliwdlllil ipiessien. Tbeic ,X be no ih.iuge fei better or wei.e In mnt- til's el external expiesslen of clethfN unless (hcie is a .hiiugn in meiilii) at titude. Sinn. l(. begirililng of t,, slinplhltv, censistenej and coutineii sense have h, en geed guiding pilmlplcs III life. I nil., these xxltl, the piesent universal democratic intellieiuiil re h use. ami mi should appear nut. .mall, cully In women s elethis us it ,iih i. wiijs appear' d lu eiher ihlngs when net crowihileiil bj iilitlairj for fashion nnd show. I'veij peiied can be expressed inpiiiiij. consistency ami riwlrnliir. Ii te express coo. I !... v sheubi i, J te express giwd tilHlt - mid fitness, In (lie epoch in whlck w-' f ' l ! -1 11 1 i. ' I &$&&$& iwi-ii 've ls s.y atiavEKftsj Sli y .j 'tli ifii -5" .