The Minneapolis journal. [volume], December 16, 1906, Part VI, Woman's Section, Page 2, Image 43

About The Minneapolis journal. [volume] (Minneapolis, Minn.) 1888-1939

Image provided by: Minnesota Historical Society; Saint Paul, MN

                
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A BROWtf BROADCLOTH.
MISS LEE: I will inciose samples. I
feet 2 inches tall, waist measure, 23 dark
hair and eyes, slender face, between dark and
light Complexion not much color. Will 7012 please
tell ma how to make brown broadcloth suit suitable
for all occasions? I do not want coat fashion, but
sqme dressy waist. Would cream allover lace be suit
able for trimming? Please tell the most dressy way
to make it that will be in style the longest Also
._ sample of plaid for shirtwaist and how to make it.
Also sample of eorded silk dress, suitable for a little
girl 5 years old, brown hair and eyes. Would Valen
ciennes lace and insertion be suitable for trimming
Do, please, tell me the prettiest way to make the
brown broadcloth dress, as I am going east for the
winter. I have gained so much information from you
and appreciated it. J. H. E.
Yelva, N. D.
Unfortunately you forgot to Inclose samples. How
ever, I will do the best I can for you from the de
scriptions you give of the different materials. Taking
the brown broadcloth first, I think you will find a box
pleated skirt meet your needs, as it will become you
and is a model not likely to go out of fashion quickly.
You can have the conventional box pleats all arounrd
ion can nav tn conventional DO pieat ail around
til 111' ZU^,^ I
the
widtht, twor
8e
vertefront box plea ove each hip Th bottodoublel wil be
finished with a hem, and, if any trimming is desired, it
should be simply self strappings above the hem and
sot crossing the front width.
I should make the lower portion of waist to match
the skirt pleating at the top, and have a collar and
small neck empiocement of very rich allover ecru lace,
or cream, if you prefer it, lined with pale blue ot
ivory. This to be outlined with golden brown velvet
laid on flat, forming a deep round yoke, and the full
ness of the waist taken into a velvet belt The sleeves
will be full puffs to elbow, brought into deep velvet
cuffs, ending in lace bands, the latter lined with blue.
A hat in keeping with this dress may be in white or
mushroom felt, trimmed with brown velvet and blue
and brown winga the veil brown and the gloves tan.
A plaid waist will become you if the body part is
cut on the bias, and a deep yoke is laid in one-inch
box pleats, the fullness confined by a smart kid belt
The sleeves will be on the straight and pleated to
form deep cuffB. The closing will be under a box pleat
down center front.
In regard to combining the lac,e you mention with
the corded silk, if the latter is on the bengaline
order, that is, a very heavy kind, then I should say
the combination would not be a happy one. If, how
ever, the silk is of the Japanese order, thin, with a
cord running thru, the lace will look well as a trim-
4T, A it~ 4. 4.-U i
will be the better choicetfor the little hat
will he the hettflr fthni fnr th l,ttl fl,,cri,tr'
CHRISTMAS GIFTS.
Dear Miss Lee: Please tell me how to make an
evening dress fronV material like inclosed sample. I
am 17 years old, 5 feet 9 inches tall, 44 inches bust,
waist 33 inches and hips 49 inches. I have dark brown
hair, gray eyes, great deal of color in my face and full
face What colors can I wearf How long shall I
wear my dresses? How shall I wear my hair? Please
tell me how to make a few simple but'pretty Christ
mas presents. Anxious Constance.
What a pretty piece of goods. I should feel in
clined to make it up over a lining of old rose, a deep,
but not dark shade, just bright old rose Make the
skirt in double, effect, a fairly full skirt gathered
Blightly in the waist line, reaching the knees, and
hemmed on the bottom, the skirt completed by a deep
flounce arranged as the upper skirt and added under
its hem. Trim above the hem of both skirts with
three TOWS of half inch old rose ribbon Make collar
and small yoke of white lace over old rose outlined
with a flat shaped piece of the goods trimmed with
rows of the ribbon forming a deep flat yoke, fact,
you must keep the effect as flfct as possible all thru.
The lower portion will be Blightly full, and be brought
into a narrow belt of the old rose, just a twisted
strand of Bilk tied in the back in girlish fashion The
sleeves should be just fairly full, end at three quar
ter length in cuffs of the goodB trimmed with rows of
the ribbon.
This will be a very pretty gown, and if you do not
care for old rose, use green instead, because the ma
terial needs Something to give it character, but in this
case, line with white rather than green.
Tou are evidently a fair brunette, and so can wear
all the blues, also grey, yellow, brown, tan, fawn, dark
red, coral and salmon pink, green, old rose, cream and
black. Tour skirts should reach your shoetops,
A very dainty gift is a handkerchief sachet made
from two embroidered handkerchiefs A piece of card
board should be cut of a size that When folded into a
handkerchief, envelope fashion, it will be entirely
covered on both sides. Uover the cardboard first with
perfumed padded silk, then the handkerchief. The
second piece of cardboard is treatedexactly the same
way, with an initial handkerchief, then both are con
nected with straps of inch wide ribbon, four inches
long, two being placed on each of the three sides, the
handkerchiefs slipping between the open fourth sides
This is easily and cheaply made and is an exceedingly
convenient case for traveling, lying flat, as it does, any
amount of crushing will not harm it in the least.
Another gift, equally dainty, is a pincushion made
exactly like a doll's bolster. A roll of lining is cut
first and filled, small rounds being sewed into tha
ends, making it look like a real bolster. This is cov
ered with silk in a delicate color, cut six inches longer
than the bolster so as to allow of a three inch ruffle
at the ends The outer cover is dainty lawn and lace,
groups of tiny tucks and lace alternating around the
soils, or perhaps threaded lace beading. The ends are
finished with narrow lace frills and the whole is tied
down to the 'roll with ribbons matching the lining
This is both pretty and practical, as the Cover can bo
washed time and again, something that cannot be said
for the over elaborate satin affairs that cost so much
and give so little service.
FOR A STOUT WOMAN.
Dear Miss Lee- Will you please tell me how to
dress and what to wear, as I am overloaded with
flesh? I wish to get me two dresses, one for evening
and afternoon reception, and oneo for street wear. I
Should like a princesse, but suppose I am too stout'for
anything pretty. I am 5 feet 2 inches tall, bust 44
i jinches,
hipscomplexion,and
0
r0have S
a
lT
ii
no
3
ld
4
0
year
4aceinches, 9
waistchin,inches,
a
fa
Ki
bloflomS
an ge
wa
mmg. A large white ha trimmed withdaughter's white ribbon. t,_if v-w ,o^
hflf,
32 weight 180
grayf How would inclosed sample be for a princesse?
Anxious Header,
A well-fltting princesses gown is a possibility, but I
am sorry to say the shade of sample inclosed is impos
sible. All light fawns, modes and grays are fatal to
stout figures. Your very best colors are black, re
lieved about the face, navy blue and dark green. Tou
have a wide choice in regard to delicate colors reliev
ing those of somber hue, green, pink, blue and mauve
all being becoming as accessories, but must not be
worn as a Whole gown. White will be moroe becoming
rrr/i-u i
v..
SSt^SSS^tf ton Zh Th^W
wear^my^hairt What colors can I wear? Can I wear lack of daintiness or becoming line's in the construc
tion of your garments. You must avoid heavy mate
rials, or too much trimming. For street wear, a navy
blue or dark green broadcloth suit would be nice, made
with a plain flaring skirt taken into the belt with
quite a little fullness,pleats that can be released as
found necessary aie good,and an empire coat cut on
flaring box lines, the shoulders trimmed wjth braid and
a little velvet, suggesting an empire model. The
sleeves will be full and cuffs matching the yoke will be
the finish. Tou see, if you have a plain coat model,
thennthe sleevesnmust the conventionals coat style,
which will fill your
needswhole
Becomin
mur
4
7A
1
EE Bed Bride is the rage of Paris.
The Countess de Benzeny, one of the pret
tiest and most popular of the young royalist set
in the French capital, was married in redin a bridal
gown of red, with red veil, red gloves, red shoes, red
lingerie, red stocking. Bed, red, red, everything red,
and the daring of the countess and her four bride
maids, who also wore startling red costumes, has
started a fashion which mat drive white satia and
white veils forever from the altar and substitute
Americas Beauty roses for orange blossoms.
Perhaps never before has a revolutionary movement
in fashion created such a sensation or caused such a
stir. Redthe color of revolutionwas successful in
this revolt against the seemingly absolute reign of
white. Society gasped when it was announced that
the countess would wear red at the altar yet came,
saw, and was converted, and red has become the rage.
Already in England, conservative England, brides
andf bridemaids have compromised with the French
nidlL
thi i winter tie holly berry has replaced
wea rf
re
ar i and
the back and a in- the orange wreath. Perhaps next year the English
lnstea
will surrender to the French fashion, and the makers
of fashion the world over declare that red has come
to stay and will supersede white entirely as the color
for bridal gowns.
4, 4.
Red Bride Is Strong Brunette.
The daring countess who started the revolt is one
of the prettiest women in Paris. She is wealthy and a
leader in her set. She is a brunette, extremely dark,
extremely tall for a Frenchwoman, with a mass of jet
black hair, with black eyes. Her rivals declare that
the only reason she dared break all precedents and
adopt red for her wedding color was that she cannot
wear white. She is glorious in red.
However that may be, it is declared by the
brunettes of Parisand they are the majority
that never was there a more beauti
ful wedding or a more striking looking
bride than the countess who became
the bride of Hugo dea Bacqueral.
The bridal gown was made of the
richest satin, and in color it Was red
that bordered on flaming scarlet The
gown was made en princesse, with a
borthe of old lace of deep, rich wine
red The berthe was deep in front and
narrodwa behind, and winee red
lac-e
perfectlythe
TOe,
MATERNITY GOWNS.
Dear Miss Liee: I am going to try my luck at your
hands. Tou have helped so many I am sure you can
help me. I want some suitable maternity gowns. I
have absolutely nothing in that line and want to make
the clothes before I really need them. I am 5 feet 4
inches tall, bust 84, waist 24, hips 40. Have light
brown hair, light blue eyes. 1 cannot afford anything
elaborate, but would like to appear well-dressed and
do not want to stay at home closely. -Diana.
Kenmare, N. D.
I hope I
mayissucceed
adopt that entirely if you Wish. The best advice that ,than the plain as Well as being equally appropriate for "Hard to CO1OT VON oS-n
orang
year the JSngliL
over th shoulder,
A-^^A i revealing the more
vivid re,dgof the elbown sleeves. Th
gloves were of the wine red and the
lace of the elbow sleeves was of the
same color.
The gown, fitted perfectly by one of
the greatest modistes of Paris, followed
the lines of the figure far down, and
the flaring effect of the lower part of
the skirt was achieved by a facing of
hundreds of little frills that caused it
to stand out from the feet. The entire
gown proper was of cardinal red, but
the triumph of the bridal costume was
the court train, which was worn at
tached to the shoulders. The satin for
this train was manufactured especially for the occasion in
the loom of a miH controlled by the groom. In this
loom the most expert Workers were employed for weeks,
making the material under the direction of the bride.
The court train was of the heaviest of etabroidered
satin, the body color being the same as that of the
""e
mentioned colors, made in princesse form, fitting by
means of seams, a seam coming from each shoulder
down the front Instead of darts'and the center front
lining well fitted at the waist line, the outer material
being left free for the present. A yoke of lace or
some light material should be laid on flat, and then
when the gown is on the figure, that fullness at the
waist line should be laid little pm tucks vertically
until it fits neatly there. The yoke should be out
lined with something flat, passementerie, braid or rows
of narrow ribbon, while bands of the same could be
brought from the lower edge of yoke Over bust, taper
ing to the waist line and spreading a little to the very
full, in three quarter length, ending i
The only skirt trimming allowable will be flat bands or
little tiny frills, covering the hem. The latter will
be pretty for white or any thin frocksV.
In regard to the street gown, a dark color should be
chosen. A navy blue or a black with a narrow self
or white piri Stripe is a good choice if a plain material
is not desired, and a model suggested, is a seven
gored skirt, fitting the hips with an inverted box
pleat springing from each seam at about knee length.
A grottp of small buttons of the goods might head
these pleats, otherwise the skirt will be untrimmed.
The coat fitting the figure the back and semi fitting
in the front will be becoming, made with seams from
the shoulders, trimmed with braid the neck finished
with a flat collar of velvet, and narrow vest of velvet
or other pretty material. The sleeves, full coat, end
ing in narrow cuffs matching the collar.
Tour hats should be Smart and stylish looking, not
too dark, and high rather than flat, the trimming
always high. Wear yotir naif pompadour, dressing it
as high as possible.
i helping you. I
Ho should I taste still there no reason why there should any
you have forgotten the rule of "one side of the paper
only," and as I have said before, unless this is con
formed to the answer will surely be delayed. As you
are a slight figure, you advantage ofinbeing double short fleshy, but Anything very elaboratehave will,thef course, be bad
pounds lots of dark brown wavy hair, dark gray able to wear both the princesse and the empire styles
&
as well
as*
I can give you would be a gown of one of the before-^day and evening wear, quite S consxdLSn STtSJ taTo? WM!T2, &**%*, i S
Deai4
ameafraid
the' more
wme win not yoube neea as well a the more full,s givince a more becoming effect. i%
"ft*! ^empir enot and again the coat dressie YJUT proportions are Sdngry gooi? and in*rt
4&
bossed upon it were of the wine red to match the lace
of the berthe. Every inch of the scores of yards of
satin used in the tram was embossed with the wine
red fleur de lis.
The bridal veil was of lace matching the lace of the
satin, tne body color being the same as that of the berthe. and instead of orange blossoms the wreath that When the countess returns from her honeymoon
satin of the gown proper, while the fleur de lis em- held the veil in place on the wonderful black coiffure she will find herself the most noted woman in Paris.
when it is unwise to invest in a large wardrobe. Tour
hat could be black in a light weight, and trimmed with
plumes or any other preferred garniture. For house
wear mornings, neat wrappers will be the best thing,
changing in the afternoon for a pretty empire tea
gown or house gown in cashmere -or any inexpensive
light weight woolen material. For more formal wear
a gown half princess, half empire, made from any of
the soft black silks may be worn. This will fit the
form at back andv Sides snugly, and be topped by a
lace yoke, a full narrdw front of the silk falling from
the lower edge of yoke in empire fashion. Have full
fanciful sleeves ending in lace cuffs. Another sugges-
edge of skirt, giving a panel effect. Sleeves fairly tion is 6tt the Same Jines, but in two pieces, both bod- hips, all the seams strapped with the goods and the
in pretty cuffs, ice and Skirt being gathered at the waistline, the
front of the skirt arranged in two box pleats with ex
tensions at the waist line which, when the skirt is on
the person, will extend to the lower edge of yoke and
be secured, there by invisible hooks and eyes. The
belt will pass under these pleats and Close there.
Rosettes may be placed on the pleats where they meet
yoke at waist line, at knee and at flounce depth* if a
trimming is deemed necessary. Pretty fussy sleeves
will always be correct, and really much kinder than
close fitting', skimpy ones. Dainty neck arrangements
also should be aimed at, while your hate may be as
stylish as you please. Petticoats should be warm, but
not heavy, black woolen tights and a Wool jersey-top
petticoat will be all that is necessary under the skirt,
and will be found most comfortable, too.
A PERPLEXED LASSIE.
Misa Lee Will you come to the aid of a
poor, perplexed lassie? I am going to get some light
weight material for a suit and want your advice on
the color and style. I like the black and white plaids
of small design. Are they still fashionable? I need
a nobby suit for traveling, but do not want coat made
long. Am 19 years old, of erect carriage, 6 feet
inches height and weigh 125 pounds. My measure
ments are: Bust 35 inches waist, 24, and hips 38
inches, and my skirt length is 42 inches. Do you think
I am of good proportion? Can you tell me a nice way
to dress my hair? Also the color of it? I inclose a
sample. It is over three feet long, but is go soft that
I cannot fix it as nicely as I wish. I have dark grey
eyes, dark eyebrows and lashes, a fair complexion,
with little or no color, quite regular features, but my
face is a trifle too thin to be called oval my forehead
is rather narrow and high. I part my hair now and
Coil it in the back. Would like to try coronet style of
hairdressing. Will you tell me, please, just how it is
done? What colors would be best for me to wear?
Also what type would I be called? Bosebud,
Danvera, Minn.
I gladly come to your aid, and your questions are
by no means too many. The sample of hair is golden,
and I fancy the shade close to the head will be light
golden brown? as it is always darker there than at
the ends. It is very pretty, I am sure, and as it is so
long, the coronet Btyle could be accomplished. Tou
must part it in the middle, then roll in back from the
face, in your case^ keeping it as full about the face as
possible, on account of the latter being rather thin.
Now braid it two strands, cross them in the back,
and then wind them around the head, arranging thenf
so that they only show abdve the forehead when
viewed from the front. In pftning them down at the
side of th face you can manage to pull the roll out
fullj_ giving a more
becomini
effect.
on
"re-
als
W ^Lwl
all shades of gray, white, cream, pale pink, mauve,
i!o
was of perfect American Beauty rosebuds, each bttd
set in a jeweled stem, forming a coronet to which the
lace was draped.
The slippers, the stockings, and the lingerie wert
all of the wine red.
&
ne
Bridesmaids Carry Out Scheme*
The costume created a sensation the like of which
Paris has not known for years, and when the bride
maids appeared in gowns of satin that followed the
color schemo adopted by the bride there was, it is re
corded, a flutter of applause in the church of St. Se
bastian, where the ceremony was performed.
At the reception that followed the red wedding, as
Patis-now calls it. the bride wore an empire gown of
red, the body of the gown being of the same startling
shade of red as the bridal gown, while wine red flow
ers were embroidered upon the lower part of the skirt,
and the little puffs' of lace which passed as sleeves were
of the wine red.
Instead of the glorious family diamonds of the
countess she wore a magnificent tiara of bloodstones,
alternating with diamonds, the gift of the groom, ana
a ruby chain that circled her neck four times, forming
a collar effect.
Her going-away gown was of the same red shades,
and after she Btarted on her honeymoon cruise in the
Mediterranean Paris awakened and the red wedding
become an epoch mak%r in the fashions of the world.
Already it is said preparations are being made in
Pans for almost a score of red weddings during the
winter. Some of the trousseaus that are being made
at the great Paris shops are being changed from the
conventional white to the reddest and most brilliant
red that can be obtained. Most of the brides who
thus dare to follow the fashion set by the countess are
brunettes. But one wedding which is expected to be
bizarre beyond measure is that of a beautiful blond
whose creamy skin and red bronze hair will form a
strange harmony with the general color scheme.
delicate shades of peach color, pale yellow, rich
brown, wine red and, in fact, almost any color except
dark green, dark purple and black, as these will have
a tendency to make you appear paler. Tou are, I
fancy, a very pretty type of the colorless blonde.
Black and white checks will become you extremely well
and few materials are smarter-lpokmg when worn by
the right figure. Besides, they never go out of style,
but are always in good taste. As you are so tall, the
check should be in medium siae. not too small. Have
a box or side pleated Bkirt, trimmed on the bottom
with rows of bias, self-strapping, and a smart-look
ing, tight fitting, straight-front coat, just covering the
ck finished with a man's collar and small revers
faced with black silk, black silk buttons for the clos
ing. Coat sleeves ending in narrow silk cuffs will
complete an exceedingly stylish suit. Sare a large,1
girlish-looking black hat trimmed with handsome
black ribbon and quills, black or bright green your
gloves to be tan. Unfortunately, n6 sample was in
closed, but, if can be of further assistance to you, I
hope yon will write again, inclosing it.
A "GIGANTIC" READER.
Dear Miss Lee: Will you give advice to very
undecided, disgusted person I am 18, S feet 8
Inches tall waist* 27 inches, hips 40, and bust 86
yellow-brown hair and blue-gfay eyes, also oval face
good complexion. Am trying to make myself not ap
pear so gigantic, but how shall I dress to do it? The
blue sample is for a serviceable dress and can have
any trimming that you suggest, the ted and black
plaid is a riding habit. I am asking a great deal, but
what colors could this pleasing combination weatf
Gardner, N. D. B, M. H.
There is certainly no reason why you should be a
disgusted young person. Indecision is apt to attack
us all at some time or other, and so is excusable. Yon
are just tall and well-grown, and how many of the
short ajyi stout type are there who would not gladly
change places with you? Instead of being disgusted
you should be grateful to natufe. Make your skirt in
full box pleat style, trimming nine or ten inches above
the hem with several rows of black braid in graduated
/Widths. On the waist a deep yoke of pretty gay plaid
cut on the bias Weill become you, the lower portion of
waist box pleated to yoke and taken into the waist
line, with a'Corsage of the silk. Bows of braid will
conceal the join of yoke to waist. The sleeves may be
large puffs of silk with capsslashedand trimmed
with the braid falling over, dr they may be full
sleeves of the material, taken into silk cuffs Tou
would find, this a stylish gown, and the plaid colorings
may be red and blue or green, blue and black com
bined. Try and dress to appear broad, that is, always
trim 'horizontally, never vertically choose full, baggy
sleeves, styrts in double or triple effects, and wear
broad belts. Fluffy waists wijl be better than full
ones, and fot general wear your skirts may be as short?
as can be conventionally worn. Plaids and checks
will become you better than plain materials. Striped
goodsverticalshould not be adopted at any time.
Large, flat hats will apparently decrease your height,
especially if they ate black. The riding habit I should
make in a side-pleated Skirt, With a hem on the bottom,
and a fairly loose pony coat, the seams and lower edge
trimmed with black braid, coat sleeves, with collar
and cuffs of black silk. Tho simple, as a riding habit
should be, it will be extremely stylish.
The really pleasing "combination" can wear all
shades of blue, *purple, light and dark green, black,
white, mauve, heliotrope, dark brown, blpe-gray, pale"
pink and crimson. Avoid fawn, yellow browns and
the mode shades.
I rtheane
1
COLORS FOR REDHEADS
By Elizabeth Lee.
ONOE heard a man remark, "Why is it that red
6t auburn-haired women invariably display such
bad taste in dressing? As a class, I have found
them most capable, possessing common sense and in
telligence in a marked degree, bright and quick to
see different subjects from'all points of view, yet
when it omes to garbing themselves nineteen out of
every twenty is either a dowdy or a fright, according
as they have chosen their toilet. JIow, as a rule,
brunettes have good taste their gowns, if not what
might be termed artistic, do not set one's teeth on
edge, while the genuine blonde tho she may appear
a nonentity sometimes, seldom dons such antagonistic
colors as are seen on the blonde ardente. True, when
one does meet a red haired woman really becomingly
garbed, she is a glorious creature, and neither the
stunning blonde1
nor the brilliant brunette can ap
proach ner in style, or possibly, it is thought so 0*
the reason that she is so rare."
Now this statement is not entirely true. The
brunette may be absolutely without any knowledge
at all as to what will become her. Her tasteful ap
pearance may be more a matter of chance than any
thing else, as there are so few colors that she cannot
wear successfully, while the genuine blondes, or be
tween type, lacking any particularly strong coloring,
naturally will not have to fight other colors that may
approach it in the way of gowning consequently, if
her toilet is not exactly harmonious, the fact is at
least inconspicuous. Here, too, not because her taste
is her guide, but simply because she cannot be differ
ent. So it is rather hard on the red-haired woman
*oJy that her taste is always at fault, for she has
difficulties to meet and overcome that are entirely
unknown, to any other type.
It is, I know, the generally accepted opinion that
blondes of the auburn tresses should wear golden
brown and pale blue in preference to any other colors.
I beg to differ. Certain browns, notably golden, will
surely kill every trace of gold in the hair, and abso
lutely lighten the eyes, eyebrows and lashes. JLr the
eyes are blue, then a faded washed-out hue steals into
them, while the lashes shading them and the brows
above appear actually straw color, and how insipid
the complexion! In my opinion, yellowish browns
and fawn shades are really the very worst colors that
could be chosen by this type, tho the genuine pale
baby blues are very little better, except that they
act in an opposite direction, and instead of reducing
the red tints in the hair, dulling the owner into in
significance, aj will the yellow browns, they simply
intensify the red a hundred fold, bringing out all the
fiery redness rather than the gold in the hair.
A rich, deep dark brown as seen in sealskin and
handsome velvets, looks well on them. By contrast
the golden tints will eleam thru the hair, the com
plexion will become clear and delicate, while eye
brows and eyelashes will actually appear dark, so
after all it is only a matter of choosing the right
shade of brown. One has only to imagine a red-haired
woman wearing a tan covert coat and another one of
the same type wearing a sealskin coat to be convinced
that the yellow browns are simply impossible.
To my thinking, milk white, black and pearl gray,
the latter relieved with a little creamy lace about
the throat, are the most successful colors this type
can choose, and, if one can trust one's judgment, just
a suspicion of pale lemon may be added to the gray
frock, altho personally I do not favor the yellow, as
do some authorities, as it is a most difficult color to
attempt, Dark greens are good and certain soft
shades of pale green. Dull cadet blues I like for
suits with a darker shade of velvet about the face,
or for house gowns, trimmed with lace and velvet,
mauve and amethyst shades. She can wear also deep
rich navy blue. Dove color will be especially becom
ing, and, in ckoosing black, the silky semi-transparent
materials will be lovely. Creamy serge, trimmed with
silky braid, will be a happy choice, and so will cash
mere in amethyst shades. Beds and pinks will, of
course, be strictly taboo, altho I have seen a ehestnut
haired woman, by no means a beauty, look her very
best in a dark crimson broadcloth suit rebeved with
white broadcloth, and a natty toque of broadcloth
and dark crimson velvet. To this She added a creamy
long-haired boa and muff, and being a tall, slender,
but not thin, figure, she looked superb, tho it is only
fair to say every woman of this type could not suc
cessfully carry this toilet. Elizabeth Lee.
THE BEAUTY SPECIALIST
TALKS ABOUT SMILES
"Ton would be surprised," said the beauty spe
cialist, "could you but know how large a part the
smile plays in real life. In these days it is the Woman
who smiles. 4
"Once upon a time it was the woman who frowned
and there were periods, in the Jane Eyre days, when to
wear an imperious expression was the real thing. But
that was long ago. In these days it is the girl with a
laugh.
"Even queens laugh In the latest picture of Queen
Amelia of Portugal that royal lady wears a smile so
deep that it will not come off, while Queen Alexandra
has been caught by the camera smiling.
"It is the thing to smile. It is strange, but true,
that woman has come off her regal pedestal and be
come anxious to please.
"It may be due to competition in the feminine
ranks. But, whatever may be the cause, true it is that
all of the reigning belles are smiling these days. They
wear expression sweet as honey.
"Th prettiest smile in England is that of the
ncess of Pless. The lady, who is a perfect blonde,
owner of a set of very white teeth, and these
teeth look at their best when the lips are parted in
just half laugh. It is a deep smile, and the princess
cultivates it assiduously. She has taken lessons in it.
"The Julia Marlowe smile is a set one, and it is
good for beginners to practice upon. In Miss Mar
lowe's case itis perfectly natural and is very becom
ing. She has, you know, a deep dimple in her chin
and a couple in each cheek. Her face is a study In
natural dimples, for there are dimples around mouth,
chin and in cheeks. At the slightest hint of merriment
these dimples break forth afresh. The Julia Marlowe
smile is becoming to all who have dimples.
Dimples, by the way, are very easily acquired. In
these days of cosmetic surgery the making of a cleft
in the Chin is not a difficult matter.
"The way to Smile is not to open your mouth and
show your back teeth, but to smile with the lips' only
slightly parted. When you smile, make the experiment
of parting your lips ever so little. Then smile as
broadly as you please.
Tdu will show your teeth by this process and your
lips will redden. Lillian Bussell knows how to do it,"
Idea for Using Cold Fish.
The Sauce.Boil a pint of milk in a double kettle.
'Drop in a Sprig of parsley. Let boil ten or fifteen
minutes, so that the milk will be well flavored. Blend
a tablespoottful of flour with a tablespoOnful of butter.
Add these to the milk. Remove the milk from tha
stove and stir into it the well-beaten yolks of tw*
eggs. Salt and pepper to taste. The sauce should b
of the thickness of cream.
The Fish.Take two forks and break the fish apart.'
Spread a layer of fish in a baking or pudding dish and
strain the sauce over it. On top sprinkle bread crumbs
that have been rolled in melted butter.. Put in hot
oven for fifteen or twenty minutes.
These* directions must be very carefully followed.
4
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