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Copyright, 1916, by tho Star Company. Great Britain Rights Reserve* tADY DUFF-GORDON, the famous "Lucile" of London, and foremost creator of fashions in the world, write* each week the fashion article for this newspaper, presenting all that is newest and best in styles for well dressed women. Ledy Duff-Gordon's Paris establishment brings her inlo close touch with thai centre of fashion. Lady Duff-Gordon's American establishments are at 37 and 39 West Fifty-seventh street. New York, and 1400 Lake Shore Drive, Chicago. By Lady Duff-Gordon ("L U CI L E") O create exterior forms that invoke the persistently haunting charm of mystery defines the ages-old genius of India- In all itB art, architecture, litera ture, music, religion and in the draping of tho lithe, dark bodies of young Hindus a single governing theme is crystal ized?the haunting beauty of mystery. For a long, long while 1 have sought to grasp that elu sive secret and weave It Into drapings and adornments for our Western beauty types that should grace their natural superior advantages with the added peculiar fascination that i3 India. Now, at last, I hopefully pre sent a result that is illustrated on thlB page. The general effect is what is important. Does It breathe the spirit of India? 1 feel that It does. In detail It Is a matter of adapting characteristic forms and mate rials. The headdress is not an Indian turban. Hut with its shades of mauve and pink satin, Its garland of flowers and its surmounting spike of green, dlarnond-jewolled. certainly It suggests India at first sight. Necessarily It Is an adaptation. A new mode cannot be literally faithful to the object which Inspired it. Thus, too, the vino and fur-bordered embroidered cont suggests the long and graceful scarves worn by Hindu princesses. Observe how it is fashioned to appear as though wound about the body, leaving openings of gauze through which is revealed the close swathing of the robe about the knees?another characteristic Indian touch. The llarlng amplitude of the robe downward from the coat's fur border Is designed to accentuate that Hindu slimness of the figure at the knees. It is not reasonable to expect our women of fashion to learn to drape their bodies with unshaped fabrics. 80 here the problem for the "Western co stumer Is to apply her art so as to supply definite garments whieh appear to be simple draperleB, and indicate the inherent ability, of Hindu women to ignore the conveniences of seams ant buttons. The tea gown illustrated hero is of silver brocade ea gray chlflon. The underskirt Is of gold colored tissue edged with Oriental flowers. The collar, cuffs and edge of the coat are of brown fox. The underskirt lo a shot marquosette of green and pink, edged with heavy lead to hold down the train. This Indian style is, of course, best adapted to the girl or very slender woman- With that restriction it Is my most novol conception for the coming season. An Indian Model Tea Gown of Silver Brocade, With Underskirt of Gold Colored Tissue 1 LuQile" Models ?> The Turban in Mauve and Pink Satin, With a Jewelled Green Spike and Garland of Flowers