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THE SALT LcAPnu TRIBUNE, SUNDAY MOB-NTXG. OCTOBER 13, 1912.
j j ' ' '"' ' SSI 1 iH ,B" ' .fife... .Wimfe&Wlt4HiW' ri tev sssf m Mi I Mir- ?SS By LADY DUFF GORDON ("Lucile") bwiS v13 o tho mont c1111111"2 act" : is ; v J rc3SC3 or hom 1 fur' iDjfi'S - nlshed wardrobes is Mius . eflfc'S BUlIo Burko, the little coBiiiopolituu looks ln ii8hiona of any cUme or tIrae- ! i cWF, ' uibb BuftQ im3 the cliic most de- B 8lrei by Pariaiennes and all well- W1 dreEEed women. She bus Titian hair, bIuB eyes and fair, rony skin that 15 ,ead themselves to nearly any color. , id tkjj j She is, Indeed, a most satisfactory' H 1 llLtle Person to dress, knowing as J 1XQ dileB what Hbe wants' aud belng '3 amiabillty and gratitude theniBelvos rLd . lfc waa a pleaauro to supply her a,Bd : ?1Ul the uiarL costumes she wears P14 it" : in her latest Guceeos "The 'Mind the ereC U . iaf Girl," Her entrance gown, the caU5'1 ' filrIiBn afteraoon costume which Bho V1 ti f been wearing ivbile Bho posed id i tor ber luieaL portrait, is one of the itf"1 J?03t attractive o her robes. Its i Iz-B are of the alralgbt, shoulder ifli fjl u 0 honi Bort. tbat give added girl ttdt, f iBhneus to a girlish figure, and sub ,j tract yearB from a matronly one. m i W,B9 Burke tnakeu hor entrance up- te the BtaE0 in her now play, in 111 la ' tb!3 Bown of straight lines and lPlL Vd - E,rtisbess and tho audience notes . a PleaBed mood that it is of "all id vor laco" of 3lmple, conventional in' rfJ p Pattern. It conformo to the mode by giving a flounced effect In BtraiSttC lines without added breadth to the flgure. The flounce is scant and set upon another, each being about olghteen inches deep and no fuller than the skirt where it la gathered upon tho hips. Whilo two and a half yards wide, It is so soft and clings ho closely to the flguro that the skirt Eeems scarcely wider than the hobble of the paBt two seasons. It is made over a slip of the same froBtlikc whiteness. A charming llttlo white satin peasant bonnet, adorned with a garland of rosebuds, completes the costume. When she returns to her home, after the birthday dinnor given on the stage in her honor, eho wcacs over her white evening gown of chiffon and crystal embroidery a cloak of white cblfton Unod with the eame materJal and bordered with satin and fringe. The neck, front and large, flowing sleeves of the evening cloak are bordered wlp Hitiu fringe. Croaa rows of tlio fringe are arranged m geometric do eign across the skirt of the coat, meeting tho border of satin In front. The gown and cloak give excellont hints to the young girl for her afteruoo- and evoning attire, Uils Autumn. . it,o Keeping In mind the fact that this Is to be largely a whit and LADY DUFF-GORDON, the famous "Lucile" of London, ano foremost creator of fashions in the world, -writes each week the fashion arlicle for this newspaper, presenting all that is newest and best in styles for wcll-drcsscd women. Lady Duff-Gordon's new Paris establishment bring3 her into close touch with that centre of fasluon. Lady Duff-Gordon's American establishment is at Nos. 37 and 39 West Fifty-seventh street, New York City pink season Miss Burke's costumes are in those colors. Th9 gownB are of white and the garniture almost wholly of pink. This 1b true even to the negligee which Bho wears in the mornin-, white chiffon over a foundation of palo pink, like the in ner part. of a shell or the softly tinted heart of a blush rose. Though so early in the new Autumn season certnin notes have been definitely Bounded and certain lines drawn as to the modes that will prevail. The dircctolre influence is, per haps, tho dominant one, while the Louis XV inspiration is also still evidenced in the much modified pan nier skirt draperies, though nowa days (and nights) the said draper ies arc only permitted to suggest, in the most stub tie and therefore most becoming way, those puffs about the hips that once distorted the most graceful figure. SometimeB It Is true yon will see ' and there iB Just the chance that you yourself will be induced to wear an evening dress whoso tunic folds of net will be of quite billowy fullness, but this because they are also quite transparent. The slender and straight outline of the fituire and the underskirt will never be lost sight of for a moment. By tho way, too, some of these iitenhanous panniers are being made -ith long, fur-bordered slits at lar side which have something of the quaint effect of huge and un- ex?tethenLwetaro destined to see -m0BiucU more, In fact-of the pleated skirt which came to ub singly and somewhat nervously in the late Spring and early Autumn, but is now arriving boldly and in positive and pretty battalions! When well-made, these skirts can be very attractive, but real and speoial Bklll is demanded for their making if they are to give the new freedom of movement and, withal, retain the old narrow silhouette. As to our waist line it is undoubt edly to move down a little and pos sibly also to decrease In circumfer ence by an inch or so if, that is, we are to accept the guidance of an impressive number of the new mod els, where the waist is encircled and accentuated by deep belts and closely swathed sashes. But also, and because fashion is so wise now, that she manages to be all things to all women, there are many rather hlgh-waisted and other almost waistless gowus, while certain of the more extreme evening models are designed to be worn without any corsets at all. I note too and deplore a ten dency in some quarters to restrict our prized and pretty neck-freedom by the bondage of hlgh-folded collar-bands and cravats, but still I have sufficient confidence In the all conquering and charming low collar to believe that no such attempts will be able to diminish the number,, and the enthusiasm, of lis wearers Very long sleeves (glove, fitting from the exceedingly low shouldar line to the wrist or the knuckles) SSm? a fGatUre of Aut"Sn eownst yjgj White Satin. Cava- ' ts.?J ' ? 03 ir" COPYRIGHT A. DJ?o.- L THE MOST FAMOUS ZlVMGBMmY No 195Do You Know.? I 3y Mma. LINA CAVALIERI COME, girls, whatever your age, for it is pleasaut to keep up the illusions of girlhood, though hair be white and skin tend ing to the formation of hundreds of fine point lines, draw your chairs here on the hotol piazza and let us chat of newest things in biiy cul ture. - Do you know lliat ftiv wrist talk no more of facial massage? No, that is quite obsolete, really far out of date, you know. Now it is face manipulation, or feature building. Some term it face llfiiug. What is it? It is massage Improved, amend ed, rendered far more bcieutiflc than before. You didn't know that your face is Inclined to slip, did you? It is. and It is as aerious for your face to slip far on 'he toboggan slide of time as it is for the leet to slip on an Icy pavement in midwinter. And face manipulation or feature build ing work hard and successfully against th'- tendency. Tho cheek muscles are the chlof sinners In this matter of muscle slipping. The heavy, flat musclcB of the cheeks begin tc slide downward, and unless their course -J arrested the lower part of the face grows heavy. Th chin sinks with Its own weight and the fine, clear cut line of the lower jaw is" lost. In sagging muscles aud in unwelcorno and unbecoming fat. The face that iB falling must be lifted up. Therefore muEt there be strong, heavy, upward strokes from chin to ears, strokes so strong that the muscles tingle and the blood rushes In a flood to the face. If the linos about your Hps are growing deep and gaahllke it is because the cheek muscles are slipping down the sides of the face toward the chin. Strengthen them by strong, heavy, upward strokes. Have your eyes begun to look Biinken in n lake of dark, unhealthy looking skin? That 1b because the cheok muscles are drawing away from them and not giving them their needed support. Strong, slrapllke movements of all the fingers from the inner part of the nose along the upper cheekbones will stimulate tho muscles and make thorn firm. So for the perpendicular lines between the brows that show eyestrain, or worry, brush these away by deep, strong, quick strokes of tho fingers. Thie, raj' friends, ia the face build log, or hoisting, for which a great deal that Is favorable may be said. Do you know that tho large, loose, lazy muscles of the abdomen that sag and give the tigure a vulgar, un lovMy aspect, can be made firm aud hard In a most commonplace way? Doctors have noticed that the washer woman never shows these sagging muscles that so detract from the beauty and elegance of the figure. Why? Because she bloopB over the washtub hour after hour and day after day, and this stooping hardens tho muscles. Musclos In a woman's body that are seldom used and so very weak are those of the back. Gardening develops them. Tho chest is cx panded and the lungs enlarged, the blood purified, by gardeniag. It were well for us all to take to th.9 garden. The morning is the time when we aro most liable to be lazy and to shirk our exercises. Yet they should be taken beforu our bath. Did you know that there aro running ma chines that cm be folded up and hung on your bathroom wall, that jH taken down, take little space on the floor, and yet 'jy hlch you can have a vigorous run. equal to a couple of miles before your plun$ and breakfast? Beauty Questions Answered A. B. C. sends this apparently characteristic letter; "I don't know whether you will regard me as an intruder or not, as I belong to the opposite sox. But if you will answer this question I will never consider myeelf capable of thank ing you. I f.m six feot one, medium build, but with a voice like a baby, which embarrasses me very much. I have taken two years' singing lessons, practicing the low notes, without benefit. I wish I could kill the voice, stamp it out of ex istence." I suspect that your trouble Is in large par' timidity. The voice re flects the oharacter. Cultivate cour age. Practice deep breathing. Be encouraged by the example of Demoithenes. He had a weak voice, an Impediment of speech; yet he used to fill his mouth with pebbles and go out to the seashore and talk agalnBt the thunder of the waves. F-xerclBe determination and cour age will eventually encourage a weak voice. Go Into the woodB or beside the seashore and rehearse that voice. F. AL writes nie: "I have read your beauty hints in tho Sunday newspaper for a long time and havo greatly profited by them. Now I am asking you to please nelp me. yk "I am a young girl of nineteen IH and for about two years have been jurling my hair. Lately I have noticed that my hair is lifting In front and is getting very thin. Please advise me what to do." I take it for granted that you mean you have been curling your hair with hot Irons. First atop that practice, which sooner or later ruins the hair. If you have been using curl papers stop that , No matter if your hair does look die rvderly while adjusting Itself to new conditions, don't touch your hair with Irons again. Be resigned to straight hair, which so many pra.'sr. Massage the wholo scalp dally with fingers that have been dipped Into lanollne, but massags longest and most vigorously with larjullne. After a time let this treat ment alternate with any good quinine tonic jH