Newspaper Page Text
M TFU5 SALT LAKE TRIBUNE. SI NT) AY CORNING, MARCH 9, 1913. H IBfikulI-Cap Hat with the New Fountain Plume. The New Dalmatian Cuffs-and" J ijlfi Swan's Down Neck Trimming V I J ADY DUFF-GORDON, the famous "Lucile" ji c of London, and foremost creator of fashions in the world, writes each week the fashion j? S article for this newspaper, presenting all that is newest - & n ft and best in styles for well-dressed worncn. ? J i Lady Duff-Gordon's new Paris establishment brings 5 her into close touch with that centre of fashion. J , Lady Duff-Gordon's American establishment is at ip Nos. 37 and 39 West Fifty-seventh street, New York. .-r- H t By Lady DUFF-GORDON ("Lucile") ft1 t . : is refreshing to turn to the . gSprlng modes. The straw hat 5s vith us, and the hat of velvet 'M i velour is the variety, not the f1 ml. Paris is such a quaint city! ' ver will I hecome accustomed to Sain of Its phases. T have grown jj xustomed to the silent, indolent tl i'erraen, sitting day by. day on 1 ftbauks of the Seine in the heart jParis, fishing ever, but catching jj thing. Why do they do it? Ask y e. winds that blow from Mont . lytre. 1 ' have grown used to them and L understand them, but I cannot n to accusflom myself to the ail Paris goes to bed one ulght Baring Winter hats and wakes up String straw ones. Nevertheless, the whole city of kIb undergoes this transforma Hi1 every February, and this year Bf'hats are new and very chic. I K'able to Ehow you two models Be week; later I shall have more, It takes time to have the pic jjKes made, alas! ?Bb the first picture I am showing jB(. a girlish little hat that my Hglish friends would call bobbish. flH3 JUBt fi skull cup of white taf Wi8, hexagonal in shape. It is flKnd with a dark-blue corded vcl- The delightful part of this nhat Is the fact that It fits close Kjust as the Winter ones did, and IH"no one could possibly miBtako JHr an old model. B decoration is one of the foun fciplumes that will be very much H this Spring. It is white and two parts. It Is fastened di KHtly in the front, and, by the way, fctrimmlng this Spriug must be Bd in one of two ways either tHctly in the middle of the buck Inexactly iu the middle of the HkUbis picture you will also no aha very new and quaint cuffs complete the white crepe H-8e TheBo cuffs are very long fc plain In Ehape, but they are prutely embroidered with the Jertul Dalmatian needlework QHpe. brilliant colors used by the fiB$rts ot that contry. Another .toucb is given by the swans- around the neck, this fur BQg a softening effect when worn the face, and predict that it S0. widely used this season. aeoond picture I present HPJ e flat hats that are win. favor In Paris and on the Rl FBS' Aa you notice, it 1b a shape and Is a revival of J. worn many yearB ago. This or butter-color straw, and the fHR ls covered with black-eyed JRW88 Qnd dull pink roses. A dar- 1 JR00 ?ntln. perhaps, hnt a M iig.enectlve one. carmjug gown worn with , this hnt has some new points, too. The largo Bulgarian buckle is prac tically n breast-plate, and the skirt Is draped just above the right knee. As the front falls back a hint of dull rose color Is seen. The mate rial of the gown is golden brown moire, matching the hat. The cut out neck and tho narrow turn-back cuffs are new arrangements of Winter styles. The fountain plume can be worn as an evoning decoration if one wishes to be a bit unusual. In the third picture the long, slim plume stands up very like a snake, or as the lizard uprears Itself in "Alice in Wonderland." T must admit that this fashion reminds me strongly of old Father John, who was nble to bain nee a lizard on his nose, to the intense astonishment of Alice. Tho gown here shown is also novel. The drapery of the skirt in odd indeed. It looks as though it wero hitched up in the front without rhyme or reason, when, in fact, it has taken great skill to get this effect without sacrificing grace. The skirt i3 of white satin and tho over-gown "of delicate pink chiffon. The short tunic, puffed and held in place with pink roses, is quaint and unusual. ThiB effect is also given on the bodice, and the whole costume would be an ideal Spring gown for a recent debutante. But now let me tell you of one of the very newest models for the coming season, which will point the moral and the meaning of what I have jur.t said, without any further comments. Imagine first; then, please, a low-collured and long-sleeved corsago which Is just a filmy softness of flesh-colored ninon and cobwebby lace, some palo pink charmeuse being, of course, eventually introduced be neath Its transparency and con tinued from Just beneath the arms to within some five or six Inches of the 1-nees. A sailor collar of black chiffon fulls deeply down at tho back of tho bodico, -while then the V-shaped opening in front is fol lowed by a turn-over of the mellow toned lace, which Is quite clevorly combined with tho flesh - colored ninon. Tho b'.ack is used again in high points, enfolding the figure like the calyx of a flower, above a deeply folded waistband of blaok taffeta ribbon, -which Is tied in a many-looped bow at one side, tho whole of tho upper part of the skirt being then lightly veiled with the black chiffon, and all three fabrics being eventually joined together in the bondage of an encirllng band of skunk fur. This, In Hb turn, is fastened at one side with another and ovon larger ribbon bow. And then, beneath, there comes a close ly enfolding drapery of black char meuse, the soft folds so caught to gother in the centre us to be slight ly uplifted, and, in consequonco, to display a glimpse of tho wearor's inkles and, lot us hope, of worth- Lady Duff-Gordon Describes the Skirts, fiats and Head Dresses That Paris Will Favor During" the Early Spring Season t ily immaculate silken stockings and suede shoes. It is all and un doubtedly very smart; but, also, it is all rather hard, every line and detail being so clearly defined that each makes a separate and insistent demand for notice. Then another new Parisian crea tion, which Is almost an eccentric ity, brings together a Parisian tunic and a draped skirt with somewhat startling but also rather piquant effects. Over the shoulders there is carried a light veiling of white chiffon underlined with flesh color, and while cut in quite decollete fashion about the neck, continued Into very long sleeves, finished off at tho wrist with double frillinga of lace sleeves, in fact, which nro curolusly and dangerously reminis cent of an old-fnshloned nightdress. Then, banded about the bust, and un der the arms, Is a softness of snowy white swansdown, this same most fashionable trimming being used again to border the curves of the tunic about the knees. This tunic, you must know, is of white net and boldly patterned Venlian lace, and entirely underlined with flesh colored oharmeuse. Finally, from knees to ankles, the skirt Is fash ioned of black supple satin not charmeuse, pleaso note, but the more definitely bright variety all the soft folds being caught to gether low down In the centre, where the skirt thereforo takes a definitely upward ourve, the better to display tho footwear. And this . if the precedent of tho model be faithfully followed will consist of white silk stockings Inserted with cobwebby black lace nnd.whito kid shoes -whose high black heels are ablaze with an inset devico of dia monds, a paste buckle shining out In front, too, against the curve of the inntop, where It has for most effective background a fold of black velvet. Add a swathed turban toque of black velvet, with a couple of ostrich featherB sot so low at one side that they droop onto the shoulders, and you have a caBino or restaurant toilette of the latest type approved by Paris. Altogether tho tunic Is very much in evidence again, for It figures In an equally up-to-date evening gown, being, in this case, fashlouod of eau de nil chiffon, and being arranged almost in fichu fashion on the bodico, where little pleated frillings flniBh It off above short, rather wide Bloevea of white tulle edged with pearl grolottos. JuBt between the cross-over folds In front, too, the white shows again, being there ablazo with an embroid ery of pearls and diamond 'sparks," a full-blown pink rose being fast ened just beneath. Here again the tunic ends Its career at the knees in front, at any rate though at the baok it curves downwards a little, being all bordered with a little en forme flounce, which falls softly over the scanty and short under skirt of oyster whito satin, where soft pearls and shining diamonds are wrought into a bold and beau tiful dovlco of festooned flowers and foliage, caught up high ;it either side with trailing true lover knot bows. A pearl-studded band Is worn In tho hair, -with a pink rose to poop out coquettlshly bohlnd one oar, this being, ns you will hav gathered, a dreBS destined for a somewhat girlish wearer. The Odd Flat "Leaf" Hat, the A Bulgarian Buckle and the Latest Skirt Drapery, . a ' 'v , The Unusual "Lizard" Headdress, the Draped-in-Front Skirt and the New Al!-Around Pannier. V JK 1 1 Ki) Ot lytuWiy tm Wosi famousivmg Beauty. I THE cornerstone of beauty is the principle that for effects that are lasting and worth -while we must work from within outward. It Is of little use to cover the fuce with layer upon layer of chalk and its compounds, to place salve on pimples, to massage the lips up ward. But It is of tremendous, in calculable use to develop beauty from within, outward, to work, so to speak, from centre to circum ference. Cleanliness within means cleanli ness without, a clear interior a nlznr Mmc. Lina Cavalieri No. 216--Woik from Within Outward surface. A pimpled, llverspotted, black-head-dotted skin means a clogged, neglected Interior as surely as dust-atreaked window panes be speak careless housekeeping. To test the truth of this, study yourself In a mirror after you have drunk water freely for two weeka. Not two or three classes a day, but ten to twelve glasses. Your skin, should be clearer and fairer than it has been for years. 'Your eyes should be brighter. Your lips- red der. Your expression more vital. The body accumulates much ash. It burns Itself away proportionally as fast as does a cigar. That ash must be removed else the body will be clogged and Ineffective and noth ing performs this off lec .co success fully as does much water .drinking. The juice of a lemon In th,e first' and last of these dally Qlasses alda.In the work of cleansing. If it Is de sirod to reduce the weight more lemon julco may be used, say the juice of one lemon in every other glass of wuter. Personally, I do not favor a method so extreme, though ' I know eminent physicians who not only permit but proscribe it. . My own belief is that it is well touse tho juico of a lemon each morning In a half glaBS of water, following with a glassful or more of water. The lemon Juice will perform its work of cleansing the stomach better If not too much diluted. Though It Is too strong undiluted for most stomachB. The time is near when a semi annual houseoleanlng of tho body Is part of the order of beauty. There fore tablets made of equal parts of cream of tartar and sulphur, or tho mixture of equal parts of Bulphur and molasBes should be taken two or three times a day for a fortnight, or, if much needed, n month, t.o freshen, the skin by stimulating the liver and kidneys to do their allotted work. Think over this principle of "From within outward" and npply to your own bodily needs. Suit tho remedy to your Individual problems. A young French artist, whom I met sketching in Normandy, told me that to overcome her distaste for water drinking she ate salt mackerel for breakfast ami a raw onion for cup per. These. forced her-to drink wa ter plentifully-, nnd her satin, smooth and lliyclear complexion attested ihe value v of her individur.! recipe, The natural remedy of our grand mothers for flushing of the body, ,' eating 'one or. two apples at night, and drinking. a glass of wator before retiring, has-an unchangeable value. , But still more important than this principle, as the spirit Is more im- porLant than the body, is tho need of kl a right guidance of the inward ma- IH chlnery. Of little use is a smile IH that is a mere parting of painted lips over the tooth. A smllo that fl is worthy tho name is a glow, a reflection of a bright or beautiful spirit. Tho smile expresses either flJ thought or L'oeling. It is the speech Ifl of an active mine, or the sign of II a tender spirit. It may be a roguish fl reflection of some mental whimsy. MH Or it ma 3' bo the benediction of a Wk kindly wish. Thero war. never greater beauty than that which tho painters have given to the brooct- 11 Ing, -cherishing smllo of tjie Ma- K!H .donna as she watches the sleeping br.be at rest on her bosom. Rl To be beautiful, look, of course, fffH to physical cleanliness. Out look, I'l too, to warming and making tender the spirit and cultivate activity of IH the mind. It is nearly useless to IH wonc from without inward, It Is the highest wisdom to viork from within outward. Beauty Questions Answered I E. B. S. asks how to reduce tho bust, thu roll of fat over tho shoul ders and thick upper arms. Ctoth3 saturated In camphor water and worn on the bust at night, have In time reduced the elxe of the bust In some Instances 1 have known. Try household work for reducing the fat on the shoulders and upper arms. 'Sweeping, ducting and bed making should help your case. A. B. writes that she has" a few obstinate freckles that have hot yielded to any treatment thus far. "Hydrossono and glycozone, which you recommended, made them much lighter, but did not quite take them JM away," she writes. There is no sure freckle cure, as there is no certain remedy for " superfluous hair. Many freckle cures, Go-cnllcd, arc- experimental fl and dangerous. As a ' rule the ll freckles thai: resist the application of lemon juico dliuted with one-half tho quantity of water have come to jH stay, or time 'ono fadc3 them. We EometIm.es outgrow our freckles. jH S. G. 3, Asks Will . you please, jM send mo a recipo for making the hair, jH very black? . j jH There arc hair dyes at any drugj 'H store that cause that rcsultbut 1' IH do not recommend hair dyo.jf' IH