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The Salt Lake tribune. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1890-current, March 09, 1913, Magazine Section, Image 35

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Persistent link: https://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn83045396/1913-03-09/ed-1/seq-35/

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IBfikulI-Cap Hat with the New Fountain Plume. The New Dalmatian Cuffs-and" J
ijlfi Swan's Down Neck Trimming V
I J ADY DUFF-GORDON, the famous "Lucile"
ji c of London, and foremost creator of fashions
in the world, writes each week the fashion
j? S article for this newspaper, presenting all that is newest - &
n ft and best in styles for well-dressed worncn. ?
J i Lady Duff-Gordon's new Paris establishment brings
5 her into close touch with that centre of fashion.
J , Lady Duff-Gordon's American establishment is at
ip Nos. 37 and 39 West Fifty-seventh street, New York. .-r-
H t By Lady DUFF-GORDON ("Lucile")
ft1 t .
: is refreshing to turn to the
. gSprlng modes. The straw hat 5s
vith us, and the hat of velvet
'M i velour is the variety, not the
f1 ml. Paris is such a quaint city!
' ver will I hecome accustomed to
Sain of Its phases. T have grown
jj xustomed to the silent, indolent
tl i'erraen, sitting day by. day on
1 ftbauks of the Seine in the heart
jParis, fishing ever, but catching
jj thing. Why do they do it? Ask
y e. winds that blow from Mont
. lytre.
1 ' have grown used to them and
L understand them, but I cannot
n to accusflom myself to the
ail Paris goes to bed one ulght
Baring Winter hats and wakes up
String straw ones.
Nevertheless, the whole city of
kIb undergoes this transforma
Hi1 every February, and this year
Bf'hats are new and very chic. I
K'able to Ehow you two models
Be week; later I shall have more,
It takes time to have the pic
jjKes made, alas!
?Bb the first picture I am showing
jB(. a girlish little hat that my
Hglish friends would call bobbish.
flH3 JUBt fi skull cup of white taf
Wi8, hexagonal in shape. It is
flKnd with a dark-blue corded vcl-
The delightful part of this
nhat Is the fact that It fits close
Kjust as the Winter ones did, and
IH"no one could possibly miBtako
JHr an old model.
B decoration is one of the foun
fciplumes that will be very much
H this Spring. It is white and
two parts. It Is fastened di
KHtly in the front, and, by the way,
fctrimmlng this Spriug must be
Bd in one of two ways either
tHctly in the middle of the buck
Inexactly iu the middle of the
HkUbis picture you will also no
aha very new and quaint cuffs
complete the white crepe
H-8e TheBo cuffs are very long
fc plain In Ehape, but they are
prutely embroidered with the
Jertul Dalmatian needlework
QHpe. brilliant colors used by the
fiB$rts ot that contry. Another
.toucb is given by the swans-
around the neck, this fur
BQg a softening effect when worn
the face, and predict that it
S0. widely used this season.
aeoond picture I present
HPJ e flat hats that are win.
favor In Paris and on the Rl
FBS' Aa you notice, it 1b a
shape and Is a revival of
J. worn many yearB ago. This
or butter-color straw, and the
fHR ls covered with black-eyed
JRW88 Qnd dull pink roses. A dar-
1 JR00 ?ntln. perhaps, hnt a
M iig.enectlve one.
carmjug gown worn with
this hnt has some new points, too.
The largo Bulgarian buckle is prac
tically n breast-plate, and the skirt
Is draped just above the right knee.
As the front falls back a hint of
dull rose color Is seen. The mate
rial of the gown is golden brown
moire, matching the hat. The cut
out neck and tho narrow turn-back
cuffs are new arrangements of
Winter styles.
The fountain plume can be worn
as an evoning decoration if one
wishes to be a bit unusual. In the
third picture the long, slim plume
stands up very like a snake, or as
the lizard uprears Itself in "Alice
in Wonderland." T must admit that
this fashion reminds me strongly
of old Father John, who was nble
to bain nee a lizard on his nose, to
the intense astonishment of Alice.
Tho gown here shown is also
novel. The drapery of the skirt in
odd indeed. It looks as though it
wero hitched up in the front without
rhyme or reason, when, in fact, it
has taken great skill to get this
effect without sacrificing grace.
The skirt i3 of white satin and tho
over-gown "of delicate pink chiffon.
The short tunic, puffed and held
in place with pink roses, is quaint
and unusual. ThiB effect is also
given on the bodice, and the whole
costume would be an ideal Spring
gown for a recent debutante.
But now let me tell you of one of
the very newest models for the
coming season, which will point the
moral and the meaning of what
I have jur.t said, without any
further comments. Imagine first;
then, please, a low-collured and
long-sleeved corsago which Is just
a filmy softness of flesh-colored
ninon and cobwebby lace, some
palo pink charmeuse being, of
course, eventually introduced be
neath Its transparency and con
tinued from Just beneath the arms
to within some five or six Inches of
the 1-nees. A sailor collar of black
chiffon fulls deeply down at tho
back of tho bodico, -while then the
V-shaped opening in front is fol
lowed by a turn-over of the mellow
toned lace, which Is quite clevorly
combined with tho flesh - colored
ninon. Tho b'.ack is used again in
high points, enfolding the figure
like the calyx of a flower, above a
deeply folded waistband of blaok
taffeta ribbon, -which Is tied in a
many-looped bow at one side, tho
whole of tho upper part of the skirt
being then lightly veiled with the
black chiffon, and all three fabrics
being eventually joined together in
the bondage of an encirllng band of
skunk fur. This, In Hb turn, is
fastened at one side with another
and ovon larger ribbon bow. And
then, beneath, there comes a close
ly enfolding drapery of black char
meuse, the soft folds so caught to
gother in the centre us to be slight
ly uplifted, and, in consequonco, to
display a glimpse of tho wearor's
inkles and, lot us hope, of worth-
Lady Duff-Gordon Describes
the Skirts, fiats and Head
Dresses That Paris Will
Favor During" the Early
Spring Season
ily immaculate silken stockings and
suede shoes. It is all and un
doubtedly very smart; but, also, it
is all rather hard, every line and
detail being so clearly defined that
each makes a separate and insistent
demand for notice.
Then another new Parisian crea
tion, which Is almost an eccentric
ity, brings together a Parisian tunic
and a draped skirt with somewhat
startling but also rather piquant
effects. Over the shoulders there
is carried a light veiling of white
chiffon underlined with flesh color,
and while cut in quite decollete
fashion about the neck, continued
Into very long sleeves, finished off
at tho wrist with double frillinga
of lace sleeves, in fact, which nro
curolusly and dangerously reminis
cent of an old-fnshloned nightdress.
Then, banded about the bust, and un
der the arms, Is a softness of snowy
white swansdown, this same most
fashionable trimming being used
again to border the curves of the
tunic about the knees. This tunic,
you must know, is of white net and
boldly patterned Venlian lace, and
entirely underlined with flesh
colored oharmeuse. Finally, from
knees to ankles, the skirt Is fash
ioned of black supple satin not
charmeuse, pleaso note, but the
more definitely bright variety all
the soft folds being caught to
gether low down In the centre,
where the skirt thereforo takes a
definitely upward ourve, the better
to display tho footwear. And this
. if the precedent of tho model be
faithfully followed will consist of
white silk stockings Inserted with
cobwebby black lace nnd.whito kid
shoes -whose high black heels are
ablaze with an inset devico of dia
monds, a paste buckle shining out
In front, too, against the curve of
the inntop, where It has for most
effective background a fold of black
velvet. Add a swathed turban
toque of black velvet, with a couple
of ostrich featherB sot so low at
one side that they droop onto the
shoulders, and you have a caBino or
restaurant toilette of the latest
type approved by Paris.
Altogether tho tunic Is very much
in evidence again, for It figures In
an equally up-to-date evening gown,
being, in this case, fashlouod of eau
de nil chiffon, and being arranged
almost in fichu fashion on the
bodico, where little pleated frillings
flniBh It off above short, rather
wide Bloevea of white tulle edged
with pearl grolottos.
JuBt between the cross-over folds
In front, too, the white shows again,
being there ablazo with an embroid
ery of pearls and diamond 'sparks,"
a full-blown pink rose being fast
ened just beneath. Here again the
tunic ends Its career at the knees
in front, at any rate though at the
baok it curves downwards a little,
being all bordered with a little en
forme flounce, which falls softly
over the scanty and short under
skirt of oyster whito satin, where
soft pearls and shining diamonds
are wrought into a bold and beau
tiful dovlco of festooned flowers
and foliage, caught up high ;it
either side with trailing true lover
knot bows. A pearl-studded band Is
worn In tho hair, -with a pink rose
to poop out coquettlshly bohlnd one
oar, this being, ns you will hav
gathered, a dreBS destined for a
somewhat girlish wearer.
The Odd Flat "Leaf" Hat, the A
Bulgarian Buckle and the Latest
Skirt Drapery, . a ' 'v ,
The Unusual "Lizard" Headdress, the Draped-in-Front Skirt and the New
Al!-Around Pannier.
V JK 1 1 Ki) Ot lytuWiy tm Wosi famousivmg Beauty. I
THE cornerstone of beauty is the
principle that for effects that
are lasting and worth -while
we must work from within outward.
It Is of little use to cover the fuce
with layer upon layer of chalk and
its compounds, to place salve on
pimples, to massage the lips up
ward. But It is of tremendous, in
calculable use to develop beauty
from within, outward, to work, so
to speak, from centre to circum
ference. Cleanliness within means cleanli
ness without, a clear interior a nlznr
Mmc. Lina Cavalieri
No. 216--Woik from Within Outward
surface. A pimpled, llverspotted,
black-head-dotted skin means a
clogged, neglected Interior as surely
as dust-atreaked window panes be
speak careless housekeeping.
To test the truth of this, study
yourself In a mirror after you have
drunk water freely for two weeka.
Not two or three classes a day, but
ten to twelve glasses. Your skin,
should be clearer and fairer than
it has been for years. 'Your eyes
should be brighter. Your lips- red
der. Your expression more vital.
The body accumulates much ash.
It burns Itself away proportionally
as fast as does a cigar. That ash
must be removed else the body will
be clogged and Ineffective and noth
ing performs this off lec .co success
fully as does much water .drinking.
The juice of a lemon In th,e first' and
last of these dally Qlasses alda.In
the work of cleansing. If it Is de
sirod to reduce the weight more
lemon julco may be used, say the
juice of one lemon in every other
glass of wuter. Personally, I do not
favor a method so extreme, though '
I know eminent physicians who not
only permit but proscribe it. . My
own belief is that it is well touse
tho juico of a lemon each morning In
a half glaBS of water, following with
a glassful or more of water. The
lemon Juice will perform its work
of cleansing the stomach better If
not too much diluted. Though It Is
too strong undiluted for most
The time is near when a semi
annual houseoleanlng of tho body Is
part of the order of beauty. There
fore tablets made of equal parts of
cream of tartar and sulphur, or tho
mixture of equal parts of Bulphur
and molasBes should be taken two
or three times a day for a fortnight,
or, if much needed, n month, t.o
freshen, the skin by stimulating the
liver and kidneys to do their allotted
Think over this principle of
"From within outward" and npply
to your own bodily needs. Suit tho
remedy to your Individual problems.
A young French artist, whom I met
sketching in Normandy, told me that
to overcome her distaste for water
drinking she ate salt mackerel for
breakfast ami a raw onion for cup
per. These. forced her-to drink wa
ter plentifully-, nnd her satin, smooth
and lliyclear complexion attested
ihe value v of her individur.! recipe,
The natural remedy of our grand
mothers for flushing of the body,
,' eating 'one or. two apples at night,
and drinking. a glass of wator before
retiring, has-an unchangeable value.
, But still more important than this
principle, as the spirit Is more im-
porLant than the body, is tho need of kl
a right guidance of the inward ma- IH
chlnery. Of little use is a smile IH
that is a mere parting of painted
lips over the tooth. A smllo that fl
is worthy tho name is a glow, a
reflection of a bright or beautiful
spirit. Tho smile expresses either flJ
thought or L'oeling. It is the speech Ifl
of an active mine, or the sign of II
a tender spirit. It may be a roguish fl
reflection of some mental whimsy. MH
Or it ma 3' bo the benediction of a Wk
kindly wish. Thero war. never
greater beauty than that which tho
painters have given to the brooct- 11
Ing, -cherishing smllo of tjie Ma- K!H
.donna as she watches the sleeping
br.be at rest on her bosom. Rl
To be beautiful, look, of course, fffH
to physical cleanliness. Out look, I'l
too, to warming and making tender
the spirit and cultivate activity of IH
the mind. It is nearly useless to IH
wonc from without inward, It Is
the highest wisdom to viork from
within outward.
Beauty Questions Answered I
E. B. S. asks how to reduce tho
bust, thu roll of fat over tho shoul
ders and thick upper arms.
Ctoth3 saturated In camphor
water and worn on the bust at
night, have In time reduced the elxe
of the bust In some Instances 1
have known.
Try household work for reducing
the fat on the shoulders and upper
arms. 'Sweeping, ducting and bed
making should help your case.
A. B. writes that she has" a few
obstinate freckles that have hot
yielded to any treatment thus far.
"Hydrossono and glycozone, which
you recommended, made them much
lighter, but did not quite take them JM
away," she writes.
There is no sure freckle cure, as
there is no certain remedy for "
superfluous hair. Many freckle
cures, Go-cnllcd, arc- experimental fl
and dangerous. As a ' rule the ll
freckles thai: resist the application
of lemon juico dliuted with one-half
tho quantity of water have come to jH
stay, or time 'ono fadc3 them. We
EometIm.es outgrow our freckles. jH
S. G. 3, Asks Will . you please, jM
send mo a recipo for making the hair, jH
very black? . j jH
There arc hair dyes at any drugj 'H
store that cause that rcsultbut 1' IH
do not recommend hair dyo.jf' IH

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