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THE SALT LAKE TRIBUNE, SUN DAY MORNING, OCTOBER 5, 1913. j
I Cossack C . "r S and Black Satin . mmWW0 4Mf 1 M 7t Designed by Lucik ANMlpPM lilfe I -v- Luci,e Ein 1 CJ Costume imim I B,ue uvtyn' A Avs Trouserette -- MBf ' M 11 Paris, September 20. 'i 4 Mf 'tall1"1 ParIs wls on the alort awalt Rr' IMA ml lng th6 Autumu openings, vi 1 1 Pi Kill I an(3, as usual tlie eves o a11 (LMLJ tQQ wori(j are on ,thjg cIty of T A modes and models. From all tokens r-, Wri this will be a record-breaking Winter. J J Wo will, I think, reach, the height of the . picturesque in fashions during this sea- v Bon. We already have before 'us glimpses o Gainsborough at his .best and the days of the Empire at their worst. Hj Afternoon and evening costumes are becoming more costly and exquisitely beautiful, If such a thing Is possible, but the beauty lies j In the lines and draping, and the sumptuousness Is all In the -fabric i rather than In ornate design and decoration. I aiay have made this statement before, but really it does seem as though never before had I observed 'such, glorious, glorified mate rials. Impossible to paint-the lily, I am told, but how foolish! Here I find that we are brocading chiffons, and if that Is not painting tho lily, H, what is? H. Yesj.broeaded chiffon is with us, and It -will-be one of:the-vory Quelle Model of Blue Charmcusc modish fabrics this Winter for reception and opera cos tumes. It is so supple, so luxurious, so delightfully l yielding when draped even on ungraceful figures. But wait very soon I hope to send you photographs of 'wim some of my latest designs created in this delightful pl$p 'Frankly, the newer fabrics are nearly all for even- mMm ing wear. There is, of course, that joyous duvtyn, which S in Its heavier moments makes such adorable sport coats, but in its lighter moments makes superb tailored cos- w- tumes of a beauty that makes the feminine soul groan with anguish flW'KP when denied their possession. Wm I do not think that duvtyn will ever become popularized, it is very kP expensive, and if cheapened would lose the very quality that makes it SSStM so desirable. Some time I will show a costume developed in this be- PIJ witching fabric that will please even the most captious critic I know, SH Just at present I am deeply interested in morning, or trot-about, mM clothes for the debutante, the dear, w delightful jeune fille, who In Paris yWPRf wears the simplest kind of. clothes, " M$MMW but who in America Is allowed a little Lucilc Tango Wrap of PBS more latitude, although I am glad to Blue Charmcusc Worn mMM&W say that even tho girls brought up in Over the Tango Gown, f.SmSPfW the greatest luxury In New York are Showing Twin Train PB dressing more simply each, year, Unlooped. Im But I have before me the most fMw blithosome kind of a blue cponge trot- "ggjSg3B about costume, just suited to a pretty SWk blonde bud or her older sister. It is ever so plain. The -broad belt just t & J&0 Luale Uo I Showing i Nev I TrotAbout m in Green Epongej ' m f Topped by J Smart Bjue Veloui f K "PecoraM W5 Wines I .v I It dfc :i!M : - ! I )lV fe-.'t;feSft I f: i HiiMi 1 1 I ' I LADY DUFF-GORDON.-the famous "Ludle" of I f London, and foremosr " creator o fashions in the -world. : "writes eacK week the fashion article for, ' 1 :,' this newspaper, presenting all that is newest and best in a styles for well-dressed women. a ; Lady Duff-Gordon's Paris establishment brings her M s into close touch with that centre of fashion. ' '- Lady Duff-Gordon's American establishment is ,at W t Nos. 37. and 39 West Fifty-seventh streeL-New York M j sian coat -has splendidly youthful lines. The tumed'down collar" th 1 slits for the wide belt and the long, banded sleeves are new touchea 1 that appeal to tbe young girl. The small hat framing the face so be comlngly is blue velour decorated at the baok. with black and.blna w J mercury wings. J As you will see from all these plotures, hats are small this -.Win ( ter, but not infinitessimal. 1 I am always happy -when my clients approve of corduroy for then & trot-about costumes. It Is so workable and so becoming to every one,' 3 g but I can see that duvtyn will give corduroy and even velvet a close ij run before the Winter closes that is, in the world whioh.careai.not J how much it spends. q This blue duvtyn costume has the newest Eton jaoketwttii s po- ttllion. back. The skirt is decidedly . peg-top and has.the.outlinejoj j the trouserette skirt. The girdle Is sumptuous. It came from an antique shop," and was at'one time used at Versailles. Just between ourselves, it was at one I time part of the splendid hangings of the palace. In great contrast to the gorgeousness of the; girdle and the daring of the skirt Is Che prim J little cap of baby lamb. The stock collar is also of the Iamb. - f And now. for my brave and bonny Cossack Costume, a perfect de light to me, for of course you remember my fondness for blue serge. And this serge is of a quality that is supple, but silkily heavyth kind that will "wear forever." if that be an advantage in these days of. the quick change. i There is very little In fact, no drapery on the skirt.' for-can' ' I not dignify the slight fold at the left knee by calling it drapery. f The cap of black satin, with its impressively fierce quills, jifl'aa iM Cossack as Cossack can be. There Is a purple girdle that gives the iA, needed color note. The sleeves in the severelyplain.bodIce?are ol fm black satin. ait Plero is another tango costume that has moat' excellent pointa; &l The robe, with its fish-tail train looped up, is a dull blue charmeuse, fit: lined with dull green. An odd touch is tho fur boa slanted about the fife hips. The lamp-shade tunic of blue tulle is not wired, as the.fur gives jlii it the necessary bouifant effect. The bodice is cut low in front and UK filled in with tulle, but the back is high. glty The fetching tango cap Is made of the blue tulle. The girdle nag, effective tassels, and is the making of the otherwise simple bodice. &) And last but not least is the tango wrap of the green JIned bluej charmeuse. The twin tails are the fish-taU. train unlooped.' The fur. boa Is brown fox. S w$ These costumes this week are practically all for the young gW Later I .will show you some stunning models for the matron of fashion Jjlf, I am interested just now in the black and white revival, for' the wbeel J!. of fashion has come full circle and brought the all-black and the black Jl and-white gown to the topmost point of popularity again, though Juat( the other day it was right at the bottom crushed to the vearfli fl' by the multi-colored forces, .which flashed , their rainbow" hues in;oui m(, eyes with such dazzling effect that really we wore blinded tobat.wft jj happening. f Ijl And so the faot that the said and smart black govmhaslieonij out on top" again has provided quite a, surprise, not to say .a sensation JX But it is wonderful how quickly we can get used to changed conditions fifc and costumes, and in no longer time than it takes to order and secure Jm a new gown every smart woman seems to have garbed berself in.tko fifc black attire, which can only be one of two .things dowdyjtor-idaat A( And as no-woman Is dowdy nowadays the,meniolkftare-ffoin.tOJ, S; 'lose their hearts more frequently: than aver jy IB''