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The Salt Lake tribune. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1890-current, December 07, 1913, Magazine Section, Image 47

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Persistent link: https://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn83045396/1913-12-07/ed-1/seq-47/

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IK THE SALT LAKE TRIBUNE, SUNDAY. MORNING, DEOEMBBR 7, 1913, -,r ...... II
f heLoAic of Drerx-EyfulFoiret In. H
il -i -4 -4t$
illc Crepe with All the Radiant
aloring of the Orient Has Been
ted by Poiret in This Gown. Note
e New Muff Sleeve Which Like
e Edges of the Garment Are
nthed with Rn! Wli5f SIcunfc
f Pur.
J) By PAUL POIRET,
jl lithe Current December Num
$ ber of HARPER'S BAZAR.
I FASHION That appalling word!
K J. At least to me it is appalling
m ' because ifc stands for that
7, 'ch 1 have rebelled agalust ever
rtj ice I began designing, years ago. I
6r 00111(1 undel'3tflnd hy fashion
i Supposed to convey the Idea of
m topicality and amusement. To ray
8 Qd, Jt means uniformity and
58 Uousness. Fashion to mo implies
i C tasle' 1jecnusc a thing arbi
3 trfly sot up as a model for cvery
jl Jy to follow i-3 an insult to one's
J ilgcnco and individuality. Ever
v5j ?e 1 can remember I have hated
Jjg dine, and I have been opposed to
3 8 nrllnclul nnd absurd general iza-
a which has reigned Jn women's
vKf' urse ere was a reason for it
olden times when sovereigns of a
Slf17 SCt 010 faBblonG and th0
ffll Sin or Weavn6 textiles was
HBj'tect. It was then logical that
SBnen should follow tho fashion, for
a'Iady in waiting copied the dress
J Vcr Queen, as the most delicate of
SKPlimeniH. In turn, the lady in
BIl 2 W8s conicd and 80 ifc spread
iM"1 De Jrt,1 to auotllor- At tho
time, the manufacturers pro-
MKu niaorals required for 3uch a
BE111116, And as Ifc took a long time
PdjuBt a loom for a different de
lta or fabric, tho fashion prevailed
M. Poiret ArranglnEr a Jot NecWaco So That It Fall Juot Within the Line He Wiahoi, It Ib In Theto
Little Touches That M. Poirot Excolls. The Gown Is the Mourning Dreao Shown on the Right.
I.1...V1.
for a considerable
period.
Individuality Is
the Essential.
A woman is free
nowadays to dress as
she chooses, yet nine
times out of ten she
does not avail her
self of the privilege.
Why does she lack
the couraee to make
i herself attractive,
when on the othe;
hand she is quite
willing to make her
self ridiculous "by
following unbecoming styles in dress?
That Is the curious thing. A woman
considers herself clever if she Imi
tates other women, even to the point
of absurdity, and is fenrful of at
tracting too much attention If she
dares to be originaL
I dislike fashions- They make all
women look alike, and they reduce
to one standard something which
should be infinitely varied, distinctive
and attractive. Routine is never
agreeable. Individuality is charming.
I would liave a woman dye her hair
purple, if purple hair was becoming
to her. At least, I should admire her
courage.
PAUL POIRET, one of the most original and certainly the
most talked about of the famous French dressmakers,
is writing a series of exclusive articles in HARPER'S
BAZAR. The articles are illustrated by photographs of his
own charming and odd creations.
, In the current number of HARPER'S BAZAR Mr. Poiret
has a novel and interesting little essay upon the logic of dress.
So unusual is the viewpoint that by permission of HARPER'S
BAZAR the article and some of the fascinating photographs
that illustrate it are reproduced on this page.
I would have women wear what
ever to suitable to them, consistent
with their social position and with
the occasion. Those three things are
the only ones that should be con
sidered In the choice of a dress, and
they Should be adhered to rigorously.
For example, I consider it a crime '
for a woman to wear consplcuou?
jewels in tho morning.
Build a Gown After
a Logical Design.
Dress is fin art an nrfc to ba
studied as conscientiously as any
other art; and I would have the
adept in it exemplify her art by
dressing consistently with conditions
and with her own state of mind. In
other words, sad colors typify grief
and brilliant hues indicate joy.
Olothes should be chosen according
Co their suitability the old principle
of the Romans decorum. But they
should be worn and made according
to one other principle logic.
In my work I have always tried to
be logical. I conceive an idea, or get
a suggestion which I think will work
out well, and I carry It out to a
logical conclusion. People tell me
that the gowns I create are entirely
different from the designs of other
makers. If they are different It Is
because they are logical. Tbey are
designed and executed without com
promise with any fad or fashion.
That is one reason why my dresses
are unusual and in advance of the
prevailing mode. The so-called harem
skirt, for example, was developed to
its logical conclusion. It provefi
somev.'hat of a revolution when first
presented, but it is now approved.
The logic in a design should ba
completed. A ' dress showing the
panier effect is illogical with a
Grecian border of a divided skirt If
you want a panier, then see to it that
the rest of the dress Is carried out
accordingly.
If your gown is to be built on
Oriental lines, then have no stiff
laces or Medici collars to upset tho
fundamental scheme. If the Tanajra
is your model, then see that your
draperies are exactly like those of the
original statuettes. Do not start out
with straight lines in your design
and permit them to develop into bulgy
curves. Build a gown as logically as
an architect plans a church. Every
garment, in fact, should be architec
turally designed. - ,
Draperies, Too,. Should
Have Meaning.
I abhor on a dress buttons that are
not meant to button. A button is not
an ornament it is an object of
utility. If it does not serve any pur
pose then do not put It on. A button
:?hould button, or be placed so that it
might button, but placed haphazard
on a dress it spoils the logic and
consequently the ensemble.
Draperies are beautiful when logic
ally handled: otherwise thov are
The Etiquette of Cards and Cans-S
CUSTOM regulates the matter of
cards and callH. Social visit
ing has an established code,
and the rules should be understood
which regulate visiting cards and
their use.
These bits of pasteboard are re
quired to do duty on many occa
sions. For centuries they have boon
the accredited representatives of
their owners. They are the moans
of discharging soolal obligations, and
the endless interchange of cards be
tween friends and acquaintances
may be truly said to keep society
united. Without those useful little
bits of pasteboard social debts
could not ho paid. Cards are very
often reminders to acquaintances of
our very existence as well as a step
toward renewing friendships or en
larging a circle of friends.
Cards are often expressions of
kindliness, sympathy, condolence or
congratulation. In fact, there are
few things more important than the
etiquette of cards and calls.
Card-leaving is necoasary after
having received invitations to a
wedding breakfast, b. dinner, lunch
eon, card party or theatre party.
The reason Is that invitations of this
sort are personal. They are not In
vitations of a general nature to gen
eral affairs, but are an especial
mark of courtesy or compliment.
Church weddings, teas or large re
coptlons may be classified as gen
eral affairs. A church, for Instance,
is supposed to bo ample enough to
hold a very largo number of per
sons and general acquaintances bid
den to a wedding. They may( be
present or not, as they ploaso.
The proper acknowledgment of
tho Invitation Is to send cards on or
after the day of the event to those
in whose name the invitation wa3
issued and to the newly-married
pair. If In doubt as to what may
he the new address of the bride,
cards are sent to the home of her
parents. These obvious points are
explained herein because they are
frequently a problem to the inex
perienced. The same rule appllos
to sending cards in acknowlodgmont
of marriage announcements.
On tho occasion of a tea a hostess
sends cards to her general list of
friends. Thus she notifies them that
she will be at home on n certain aft
ernoon. They are not obliged to go.
If they go, they loave cards so that
the hostoss may be reminded of
their presence and may give them
credit for coming. If they cannot
go, cards are sent on the day of the
tea, and duty has been fulfilled. It
is not expected that a call should
be made afterward.
If a lady has a day for being at
home, her friends should try to call
at that time.
A card 1b a reminder of one's call
and address, and It la left whether
the hostoss is at home or not. It
may bo laid down on the hall table,
when entering or leaving a house
or may be laid down unobtrusively
on any convenient table.
Women attend to the duties of
card-leavJng, men being considered
exempt from making calls when
they have wives or mothers to leave
their cards, but of course a young
man must call on his hostess after a
dinner invitation. It Is to be re
gretted that Bomo young men are
not sufficiently punctilious In mak
ing prompt acknowledgment of
courtesies and hospitalities.
Tho general rule to remember Is
that a married woman loaves her
husband's cards with her own when
making a formal call, whether it be
the first call of the season or a call
as an indebtedness after an Invita
tion. Sho leaves one of her cards
for each lady In a family and ono
each of her hU3band's cards for each
lady and one for the man of the
household. If she haB a son sho
may leavo two of his cards. If tho
lady on whom sho Is calling is at
home sho places the cards of her
husband and son on tho hall table
and sends her own card by the
servant. In future calls during the
year It Is not required that she
should leavo her husband's cards,
unless, as has been stated. In ac
knowiedgment of Invitations. Her
.son assumes his own obligations In
future.
Tho eld custom has been revived
of having a card "Mr. and Mrs."
This simplifies matters generally,
as a woman leaves one of these
cards and one of her husband's
cards when making a call.
During the first year or two of a
girl's entrance in society her name
Is beneath the mother's nnmo on a
card:
Mrs. Henry Mason.
Miss Mason.
If there are two or more grown
daughters, the cuBtom Is to have
"The Misses Mason" under the
mother's name. If a younger
daughter is making her entrance to
society her name may bo beneath
the others, "Miss Winifred Mason.'"
i
Young girls have their cards sepa
rately after a year or two in socioty
and are expected to assume their
obligations about' making calls, al
" though a daughter should accom
pany her mother In making first
calls or ceremonious calls. A girl
who has been in society for a few
years may relieve her mother of a
certain amount of formal card-leaving.
Tho rule Is that first call3 should
be returned within a week, although
some persons claim that within a
fortnight is allowable. When you
have accepted an Invitation from a
new acquaintance a call must be
mado within a week after the enter
tainment. The hours for calling arc between
3 and 6' o'clock In the afternoon. A
formal call does not exceed fifteen
or twenty minutes.
Cards of compliment or courtesy
save time and express a kindly re
membrance. For instance, a card
is sent with flowers, hooks, bonbons,
fruit, or any of the small gifts of
fered among friends. In acknowl
edging these attentions it Is not
proper to send a card in return. A
note should be written.
Nothing may ever be written on a
visiting card but an informal mes
sage or invitation. It i3 not proper
to write an acceptance or a regret
on a card.
Cards of condolence or sympathy
aro sent to friends In hareavement,
with tho words "With deep syinpa
thy" written across the top. Of
course, one, should, If possible, call
and leave cards without asking to
see auy one, but If this cannot be
done cards are sent by post.
-r a Copyright, 1913, by. th Star Company. Groat Britain nights TleBerved.
Tno Back View oF the Black
and White Mourning Con
tinue Showing the Skilful
Drapnff of tho Chiffon Into
the Black Velvet Panel of tho j
Wrap. The Arrangement of J
the Drapinjj Carries Out the 1
Rules Laid Down by M. g
Poirot in His Argument on J
the Logic of Dreis. Jk
An Original .
Poiret ft
Model Mado
for tho fc
Russian ik
Ballet.
It Is
Developed
in Mahogany 8
Faille 1
with Yoke
oleeves and
Belt of
Black Velvet. Draping Are
Gathered in a Fitted Band of
Black Velvet Embroidered in
Coral nnd Gold and Edged
' with Skunk to Match
Scarf and Cuffs.
quite tho opposite. They are ex
tremely difficult to handle unless
logic Is kepi, in mind. A drapery
must come from somewhere and end
somewhere. I mean it must start,
logically, at the shoulder or the waist
line, and It must be caught, at the
other 'extremity by a buckle, a bit of
passementerie, or an ornament of
some kind. But tho flow of the ma
terial must be In accordance with tho
lines of the gown, and thcro must bo
an apparent reason for Its use. Some
times you seo draperies that come
from ono knows not where, caught
here and there, everywhere, ono
knows not how; and instead of ad
miring tho dress or feeling the pleas
ing effect of the ensemble, you won
der how the dress is made, how it
Was possible to make It hang together.
And when tho woman who wears 16
takes a step you tremble lest she dis
arrange a fold and ruin the garment.
To bo able to move about In a dress
Is logical. Nothing about drapery
should givo the impression that it
hnmpers the wearer. Drapery should
fall naturally, and if walking dis
arranges the pleats, tho materlnl
ought to fall back .Into the logical
folds as soon as the wearer Is In rS Hl
pose, leaving the impression that no 11
harm had been done. Vl
Loglo in a dress, to my mind, ll
stands for beauty. Decorum and
logic these are the two things which I jH
should govern a woman in the choice
of her dress. Fashions should ba m
ignored. A prevailing mode may; B
guide a woman but nothing more B
for the really well-dressed wpmog B
never follows It blindly. H

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