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-bbbbbM '1 THE SALT AK13 TRIBUNE. SUNDAY MOKXJXG. JANUARY 25. 191-1. Hplue Bird" Costume, De-; j-Hped in Blue Yelours de jKe. The Straight Front Haistcoat and Cutaway jjHacket Are Most Chic. KdY DUFF-GORDON, the Bfc famous "Lucilc" of London, HEUnd foremost creator of fa jBn the world, writes each week Hpion article for this newspaper, pg all that is newest and best flp for well-dressed women. T Duff-Gordon's new Paris Himent brings her into close jHwith that centre of fashion. By Duff-Gordon's American jHhment is at Nos. 37 and 39 BKfty-seventh street, New York MjLady Duff-Gordon lttjhow far and fast the fur fad I, last la an open question, a Inclined to think that fur appear with, great sudden soon as the Riviera season This fad started last August took" so violently that, of a must "be- shortened, llnute a fad becomes popu tts death knell sounds. Fur lly used in gowns and hatB, lingerie and night gownB! his, I will tell you later in g In mind tho thought that go with the Winter winds, I ling you some first Spring and ns you will see, there ivldence of fur than in the jostumes. But the muff re f course, lue Bird costume is a favor- Inc. It is created in a dark 2Mours de laine. Tho skirt is f, the few plain models on eJL fashion deigns to cralle. It rt"r, oat which brings happiness. Clwf t? delightful? And withal, so ' j- It buttons snugly to tho -! .cross tho chest The cross ft"" etens with two buttons over ttej itcoat of bright sulphur flit .cloth. Tho whole effect is irlp? jjlt most smart. 1 r. a contrast la the "Dinard" ns s n wrap, of mustard colored Id' 'f brown skunk fur, which 5 pi Excellent model for early 5 The muff, of tho fur, may t oppressive in appearance, & necessary to complete tho J- picture there is a muff more suggestive of Spring, io of brown and green plaid ed with dyed fox. The cob- tth which It is worn Is a ftifBfllttle affair, designed for a rMj etty debutante. The fabric tbgj serviceable charmeuse and S'W e is apple green. The 8 girlish In Its design, has jjjjJ tueck decoration and a new $ wraiigenient. These buttons vBRown the skirt several mP fo-d on the left side Is to tho fur edged sllL Reu shaped hat, edged with suggestively demure and jHPretontlous lu fabric, if not tho purple plush cos Ui its white turn back col H;8tunn!ng waistcoat of wlilte Kli, 'hol costume is lined atl". The hem is turneil Bs linfn:ganCl BideB 80 aS t0 BKfrn' Tli' lad' a pur- B?Q ln osproy fantasie and. He. sne carrioa an erinine' fiaD.a b,nt of th0 sPrIng K?5. given in tho blue-grav Mostume which I have named .Hv,?.f ,SPrlDS." Tl)e abort, 'n ll client; the skirt, the back and gathered nt 18 equally excellent The sK?'6, outlining the waist veu with a queer gold and UbbB are to be very chic, in P'ua season Is Immediately to,tF11 you of the near th(1 orvceablo muslins ;rlcs of the past! And j ILbbbbbbbbbbbbbH in Paris. Dinard Wrap of Mustard Colored Cloth, Trimmed with Brown Skunk Fur. The Open Neck Effect Is Becom ing and Will Remain Chic for Many Months. naturally enough, the very shapes of our undergarments are changing to conform with the shapes of our outer clothes. The very newest nightdress Is slit up the left side from tho hem almost to tho knee, the open ing being edged or softened by a little frilling of the lnce which figures again on the very low-cut neck and the short sleeves. But really the said slit is not as noticeable as you might imagine, for the reason that the nightdress itself Is made of the faintest flesh-pink ninon and Is of such a flimsy trans parency that it is hardly visible to the naked eye! However, the fact remains that the fashion for the slit skirt has now and In the fullest and most literal sense of the word reached its limits! Then there Is another new style and sensation in the way of the robe dc null really the merely ordinary term of "nightdress" Is hardly ap plicable to such an exquisite and ethereal affair! Tiir; winior season firings a host of social duties which must bo fulfilled if one would keep up one's reputation for polite ness and keep in touch with friends and acquaintances. It may be a. duty to entertain a little In return for hospitalities. It is always a duty to bo prompt In (replying to invita tions. The rocognition of the civili ties of otlierB is one of tho funda mentals of good manners. Invitations need to be sent out well In advance in ordor to securo guests in the whirl of the season; three or four weekB in advance for formnl dinners and at least two weeks ahead even for very informal luncheons. The formal caTd of invitation is used by persons who entertain fre quently. It is engraved In script, with open spaces where tho name of a. guest, tho date, hour and tho words "at dinner" are written. For a dinner or any evening en tertainment the names of host and hostess appear on an invitation. For day occasions, except weddings, the name .of tho hostess alone is usod. An engraved card for evening bears the words: Mr. and Mrs. Robert Hall request the pleasure of . company on . at o'clock. fhe engraved address follows. There may be a lino written In a lower corner, "To go afterward to tho Assembly," or "to the play." The various dances, hitherto called "Cotillions," are now to bo And this, you must know, Is made with a fish-tail train, whose long point is edged with the lace, which is than continued in curved inser tion form rigt up the sides of the closely clinging semi transparency of palest pink ninon to be joined together eventually in the centre of the very decollete corsage in the bonds of a beautifully embroidered true lover'u knot So, altogether, the answer to the riddle of "When is a nightdress not a night dress?" will emphatically and truly be "When It is ninon for then it is nothing V And there are times when it is made of chiffon! Those other flowered ninon- trans parencies, of which you had early newfl, are having the most extraor dinary success, so much so that a new model is being Introduced to enter into friendly rivalry with thole first and absolutely plain creations which banished all trimming save Debutante Costume of Apple Green Charmeuse, Showing the New Buttoned Effect on Bodice and the Looped Display on the Left Side. just the little Hat ribbon which was used and necessary to catch to gether, In Uie centre, the slight ful ness of the folds which took becom ing and comfortable curves over the birst. This later and, some may think, lovelier shape Is .slill mnde in ninon, with a floral device patterned on the filmy white or ilesh-plnk ground. But its rather deep round at the neck Is foil wed and formed by a nar row edging and a rather broadly scalloped yoke of fine Valenciennes, the same dainty finish being given to the sleeves, which end their brief and beauti ful career just above the elbow. And then,, finally, a narrow inser tion of lace pur sues Its curved career som few inches above the ninon at tho krvx, and where tho filmy flowered fabric is slit up the right side (for only a mod est nine or ion inphrv; this case!) the lace is carried to the edge, so that Its 'Shadowy curves skew up prettily against the ankle. And as to undergarments they nb:o are arriving at rhe vanishing yoiut! For they start late and end caily. and the newest, and most elu sive fr.Lrie for their working Is fine net! A typical pair of combinations in thia particular fabric is such u light burden that only two long and nar row shoulder-straps of satin ribbon are needed for Its upholding. In fact, anything else is rarely used now, as chemises or combinations, whoso fab ric was continued over the shoulders and there finished off in the once or dinary and universal way with lace edgings and ribbon threadlngs, would be unsightly and impossible as worn with and clearly visible through the seamless, semi-transparent curves o the fashionable corsage. For the rest, this particular and pretty net garment is arranged with alternating groups of graduated tucks and tapering insertion of lace and hand-embroidered sprays of flowers, the same decoratively combined de sign being repeated on the short and yarrow legs, and the whole thing be ing so lovely that It will certainly be worn over the corsets and an inner vest, and so do the duty of camisole and petticoat or knickera as well. For three garments one of these being the corset represent the maxi mum of underwear which the woman who wants lo be fashionable and slender will consent to don this sen son. Wherefore the sale for c'icmise and knicker sets has come to a sud den and almost complete end. so far, at. any rate, as the lav n and cambric garments are concerned. Fascinating frivolities in net and ninon and crepe de chine are cer- Some Points Concerning Invitations and Answers' By Mrs. Frank Learned, Author of "The Etiquette of New York To-d: ." not courteous to say that one will designated aB "Assemblies," tho time-honored "Cotillon" having van lahed from fashion and general dancing being in favor. Although Invitations for formal " 1 dinners are usu- ally engraved, ffi it is more the fferSX custom to write invitations for L?5- : I ' semi-formal af , fairs. Certain JfcK-zy rules are ob- Afr served . Note VJiin paper of best vSs4&!& quality, with ad r fitlsAVVV dress engraved A $o at tho head, is wffs- -2Z used, wordB are laraHgjtv carefully spaced, Pv;"tV ame8 aro wrlt- EnBiiiiPrA 'en oa se)arato JKLr Dinners and jtiM'nKKm luncheonn in . m honor of debu tantes are the J order of the "There nxuut be no OF An lnvlta- dclay In nunrrer- tion to a lunch- in an invitation" eon may be: Mra. Henry Mason roquests the pleasure of Miss Robinson's company at luncheon on Friday, January the second, Rt hnlfpast ono o'clock, to meet Miss Dorothy Blank. Although the full name of a hos- tess is given by way of a distinc tive understanding, the full name of a guest is not written unless there may be some reason for making a clear Indication for whom the Invi tation is Intended. The envelope containing an Invitation should haye the full name and street ad dress. Informal invitations are notes in the first person and are briefly ex pressed. Dear Mra. JQlank: Will you and Mr. Blank dine with us informally on Friday evening, January the second, and go to the play? Your6 sincerely, MARY HALL. Care in observing tho form of an invitation should enable the recipient to reply correctly, yet many persons are In doubt what to do. It must, be borne In mind that the same for mula is used for an nnswer as that which is embodied in the invitation. If In the third person, It is answered in that form; if in tho first person, that formula is required. While the rules of etiquette govern the form and may ho learned, it must be always remembered Uiat courtesy and consideration for others are principles which underlie social cus toms. There should he no delay in replying to an invitation which re quests tho pleasure of ono's com pany. To wait to send an answer on the chance of receiving a more de sirable Invitation In tho interval ia extromoly discourteous and is a selfish disregard of the convenience of the hostess, who wishes to know whom she may expect Although the soclr.l world takes rciuaals as a mat ter of course and fills up the gaps, a hostess wishes to have time to find eligible substitutes and not be com pelled to have an ill-assorted collec tion of guests. Acceptances or re grets, therefore, should be sent with in twenty-four hours after receiving invitations to dinners, luncheons or card parties. An Invitation to a dinner suggests a greater compliment than Is con veyed by an invitation to any other social affair. An accept ance of a din- WW nbr invitation JfevHfi makes it obliga- J fl$ ' tory not to al- -j finf low any but tho .1 fjl K moat serious j l.V$fc cause to inter- j 'l''jpl fere with being ih7$F57s present. Illness ? or very uncx- y'm fj pected reasons 2foGzlyS''jj may arise. It is SafiCcr? true, and in a ?iA I case of the sort FfeZ a note of expla- 111 flint! nation or a tele yk gram must be 3 $fii sent immediate- "5 f I)' to tho IlOS- ttyMva-M tess. It is never al- . lowable to on- tfli,B not prrmlH. ter into any dls ibie for mvlfeto cusslon or pro- accent nnd u Iium vision with an hnnd fo r-rt-" invitation to dinner, even when the invitation may bo seralfonnal, It ia vwinu ik i. lis ii ii, wt .j. nan i - ered frcm iIL.ei.j; nor Is it permis sible for a wife to accept nnd for a husband to regret, or vice versa. A reply to an Invitation should be explicit and decisive. The custom Is to repeat the date and hour when the occasion requires definite punctual-it-, thus: Mr. and Mrs. accept with pleasure Mr.and Mrs. 's invitation for dinner on Tuesday evening, January the Sixth at eight o'clock. When writing, a regret it is cus tomary to say that "Mr. and Mrs. regret that a previous engagement prevents them from accepting Mr. and Mrs. N 's kind Inlvtation." The rule is to accept a first Invita tion whenever it ig possible to do so. Answors to invitations are written on note-paper, not on cards. it must bo remembered that an ac ceptance or a regret Is written in the present tense. It Is not correct to write "will accept," or "will be un able lo accept," or that "a previous engagement will prevent," etc. Answers to invitations aro ad dressed invariably to the hostess alone, Friends or acquaintances who are in mourning are not Invited to formal dinners or luncheons, but they should receive Invitationa for weddings, re ceptions, "coming-out" teas for de butantes and for all affairs of a gen eral nature when It Is proper and courteous to notify them of any Im portant social ocourrence In a family. I "Woods in Spring," a Delight fill Morning Costume of Blue-Gray Taffeta Lightly Trimmed with Sealskin. tainly secured sometimes for wear when corgeblcsa and tea-gowned ease Is to bo enjoyed ; but as the necessary completion for daytime and evening jH costumes, a very closely fitting and jH short chemise and outer knickers or eulotte of milaneso silk or orepe de chine arc the invariable and really rather sensible wear. No attempt is being made to popu larize a new "jupoii-cvlotte" of milan ese silk, which, by mean3 of a cou- pie of inner and simple fastenings, jH can either bo worn as knickers or petticoat. It is very cleverly nnd closely IH shaped, and it is all bordered with a "jjjH very slight and liat gauging, which follows its upward curve nt the sides IH and its. opening up the front. But, """"H on the whole, I think the actual "jjjjjjH knickers nre more practical ns well "jjjjjjH as smarter. H Some women, however, do not like "jjjjjjjH the coivstrlction of the elastic gath- "jjjjjjjH cring which finishes them off at the jjjjjjjjjjjjjj knees, and so a good iuanj are now "jjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjj being made to hang loosely there and jjjjjjjjjjjjjj are edged with a tiny belting of lnce jjjjjjjjjjjjjj or ribbon, their .slight opening at jjjj either of the outer side seams being jjjjjjjjjjjjjj surmounted by a true lovers' knot jjjjjjjjjjjjjj bow or a wreath of wco dowers. jjjjjjjjjjjjjj Altogether, our every item of attire "jjjjjjjjjjjjj Is so delightfully dainty this season jjjjjjjjjjjl that dressing is a special joy to say jjjjjjjjjjj nothing of an exense! jjjjjjjjjjjH But in aplte of and in strange jjjH contrast to the present vogue for jjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjj essentially feminine and fascinating jjjjjjjjjjjl garments, this present season is also "jjjjjjjjjjjjjj giving more than usual prominence "jjjjjjjjjjjjjj to the pajamas which were ouce mo- "jjjjjjjjjjjjjj nopolized by the "mere man," but "jjjjjjjjjjjjjj which now. as designed for women's "jjjjjjjjjH wear, arc being made in white, pink, H blue or black tricot and made to jjjjjjjjjjjH .mer-t.rc, too, ploa'Se note! "j"jH Others arc being modelled in crepe "jjjjjjjjjjjjjH dc chine, but. though a certain and jjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjj very youthful type of girl can rnnii- jjjjjjjjjjjjjj age to look exceedingly piquant in jjjjjjjj""H such night attire, it is hopelessly jjjjjjjjjH unbecoming to the majority of women. "jjjjjjjH And; renlly. even for travelling pur- jjjjjjjjjjjH pose?, there is no necessity for it to jjjjjjjjjjjH be adopted, as the very plain night- jjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjH dress of crept' do ch In e modelled on jjjjjjjjjjjH pajama lines, as regards its fastening jjjjjjjjjjjH nt ihe neck and its finishing with a jjjjjjjjjjjH breast pocket 1- just as practical jjjjjjjjjjjH and infinitely prettier and more suit- "jjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjH And my final word, nt the moment. jjjjjjjjjjjH on the oubject of underwear and jjjjjjjjjjjH night dresses will be to proclaim crepe jjjjjjjjjjjH do chine ns the ideal material and jjjjjjjjjjjH the simplest style of making as tho "jjjjjjjH jj"j"H I have often previously drawn at- jjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjH tent Ion to this piirtlculnr and perfect "jjjjjjjjjjjH fabric, and so I take a certain "jjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjj amount of personal pride in being "jjjjjjjjjjjH able to tell you now that it is the "jjjjjjjjjjjH success of the season, it being already "jjjjjjjjjjjH certain that it will supersede all tho ""H ordinary and once universal whlto "jjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjH lawns and so forth. "jjjjjjjjjjjH Tills fact is. indeed, being bo fully "jjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjH realized by the buyers of all the lead-' "jjjjjjjjjjjH ing outfitting departments that they "jjjjjjjjjjjH are, I hear, making their arrange- "jjjjjjjjjjjH in en Is and placing their orders ao- jjjjjjj"jjjjjj cordingly. laH Let me give you a "tip," however; HLLI which will insure some permanent ("jjjjjjjjjjjH satisfaction with every such newly jjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjH acquired crepe dc chine: garment. jjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjH Be sure (o always choose, them to jjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjH pink shadings, as the pure' white U "jjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjj apt to acquire a yellowish tinge after "jjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjj a certain amount of washing, whereas IjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjH tho pink will in course of time only jjjjjjjjjjjjjjH grow slightly and still attraotivJJ5 jjjjjjjjjjjjjjH paler. """""""""""""H