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The Salt Lake tribune. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1890-current, January 25, 1914, Magazine Section, Image 31

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Persistent link: https://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn83045396/1914-01-25/ed-1/seq-31/

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'1 THE SALT AK13 TRIBUNE. SUNDAY MOKXJXG. JANUARY 25. 191-1.
Hplue Bird" Costume, De-;
j-Hped in Blue Yelours de
jKe. The Straight Front
Haistcoat and Cutaway
jjHacket Are Most Chic.
KdY DUFF-GORDON, the
Bfc famous "Lucilc" of London,
HEUnd foremost creator of fa
jBn the world, writes each week
Hpion article for this newspaper,
pg all that is newest and best
flp for well-dressed women.
T Duff-Gordon's new Paris
Himent brings her into close
jHwith that centre of fashion.
By Duff-Gordon's American
jHhment is at Nos. 37 and 39
BKfty-seventh street, New York
MjLady Duff-Gordon
lttjhow far and fast the fur fad
I, last la an open question,
a Inclined to think that fur
appear with, great sudden
soon as the Riviera season
This fad started last August
took" so violently that, of a
must "be- shortened,
llnute a fad becomes popu
tts death knell sounds. Fur
lly used in gowns and hatB,
lingerie and night gownB!
his, I will tell you later in
g In mind tho thought that
go with the Winter winds, I
ling you some first Spring
and ns you will see, there
ivldence of fur than in the
jostumes. But the muff re
f course,
lue Bird costume is a favor-
Inc. It is created in a dark
2Mours de laine. Tho skirt is
f, the few plain models on
eJL fashion deigns to cralle. It
rt"r, oat which brings happiness.
Clwf t? delightful? And withal, so
' j- It buttons snugly to tho
-! .cross tho chest The cross
ft"" etens with two buttons over
ttej itcoat of bright sulphur
flit .cloth. Tho whole effect is
irlp? jjlt most smart.
1 r. a contrast la the "Dinard"
ns s n wrap, of mustard colored
Id' 'f brown skunk fur, which
5 pi Excellent model for early
5 The muff, of tho fur, may
t oppressive in appearance,
& necessary to complete tho
J- picture there is a muff
more suggestive of Spring,
io of brown and green plaid
ed with dyed fox. The cob-
tth which It is worn Is a
ftifBfllttle affair, designed for a
rMj etty debutante. The fabric
tbgj serviceable charmeuse and
S'W e is apple green. The
8 girlish In Its design, has
jjjjJ tueck decoration and a new
$ wraiigenient. These buttons
vBRown the skirt several
mP fo-d on the left side Is
to tho fur edged sllL
Reu shaped hat, edged with
suggestively demure and
jHPretontlous lu fabric, if not
tho purple plush cos
Ui its white turn back col
H;8tunn!ng waistcoat of wlilte
Kli, 'hol costume is lined
atl". The hem is turneil
Bs linfn:ganCl BideB 80 aS t0
BKfrn' Tli' lad' a pur-
B?Q ln osproy fantasie and.
He. sne carrioa an erinine'
fiaD.a b,nt of th0 sPrIng
K?5. given in tho blue-grav
Mostume which I have named
.Hv,?.f ,SPrlDS." Tl)e abort,
'n ll client; the skirt,
the back and gathered nt
18 equally excellent The
sK?'6, outlining the waist
veu with a queer gold and
UbbB are to be very chic, in
P'ua season Is Immediately
to,tF11 you of the near
th(1 orvceablo muslins
;rlcs of the past! And
j
ILbbbbbbbbbbbbbH
in Paris.
Dinard Wrap of Mustard Colored Cloth, Trimmed with
Brown Skunk Fur. The Open Neck Effect Is Becom
ing and Will Remain Chic for Many Months.
naturally enough, the very shapes of
our undergarments are changing to
conform with the shapes of our outer
clothes.
The very newest nightdress Is
slit up the left side from tho hem
almost to tho knee, the open
ing being edged or softened by a little
frilling of the lnce which figures
again on the very low-cut neck and
the short sleeves.
But really the said slit is not as
noticeable as you might imagine, for
the reason that the nightdress itself
Is made of the faintest flesh-pink
ninon and Is of such a flimsy trans
parency that it is hardly visible to
the naked eye!
However, the fact remains that the
fashion for the slit skirt has now
and In the fullest and most literal
sense of the word reached its limits!
Then there Is another new style
and sensation in the way of the robe
dc null really the merely ordinary
term of "nightdress" Is hardly ap
plicable to such an exquisite and
ethereal affair!
Tiir; winior season firings a
host of social duties which
must bo fulfilled if one would
keep up one's reputation for polite
ness and keep in touch with friends
and acquaintances. It may be a. duty
to entertain a little In return for
hospitalities. It is always a duty to
bo prompt In (replying to invita
tions. The rocognition of the civili
ties of otlierB is one of tho funda
mentals of good manners.
Invitations need to be sent out
well In advance in ordor to securo
guests in the whirl of the season;
three or four weekB in advance for
formnl dinners and at least two
weeks ahead even for very informal
luncheons.
The formal caTd of invitation is
used by persons who entertain fre
quently. It is engraved In script,
with open spaces where tho name of
a. guest, tho date, hour and tho
words "at dinner" are written.
For a dinner or any evening en
tertainment the names of host and
hostess appear on an invitation. For
day occasions, except weddings, the
name .of tho hostess alone is usod.
An engraved card for evening bears
the words:
Mr. and Mrs. Robert Hall
request the pleasure of
. company
on .
at o'clock.
fhe engraved address follows.
There may be a lino written In a
lower corner, "To go afterward to
tho Assembly," or "to the
play." The various dances, hitherto
called "Cotillions," are now to bo
And this, you must know,
Is made with a fish-tail train,
whose long point is edged
with the lace, which is than
continued in curved inser
tion form rigt up the sides
of the closely clinging semi
transparency of palest pink
ninon to be joined together
eventually in the centre of
the very decollete corsage in
the bonds of a beautifully
embroidered true lover'u
knot
So, altogether, the answer
to the riddle of "When is a
nightdress not a night
dress?" will emphatically and
truly be "When It is ninon for then
it is nothing V And there are times
when it is made of chiffon!
Those other flowered ninon- trans
parencies, of which you had early
newfl, are having the most extraor
dinary success, so much so that a
new model is being Introduced to
enter into friendly rivalry with thole
first and absolutely plain creations
which banished all trimming save
Debutante Costume of Apple Green Charmeuse,
Showing the New Buttoned Effect on Bodice
and the Looped Display on the Left Side.
just the little Hat ribbon which was
used and necessary to catch to
gether, In Uie centre, the slight ful
ness of the folds which took becom
ing and comfortable curves over the
birst.
This later and, some may think,
lovelier shape Is .slill mnde in ninon,
with a floral device patterned on the
filmy white or ilesh-plnk ground. But
its rather deep round at the neck Is
foil wed and
formed by a nar
row edging and
a rather broadly
scalloped yoke of
fine Valenciennes,
the same dainty
finish being given
to the sleeves,
which end their
brief and beauti
ful career just
above the elbow.
And then,, finally,
a narrow inser
tion of lace pur
sues Its curved
career som few
inches above the
ninon at tho krvx,
and where tho
filmy flowered
fabric is slit up
the right side
(for only a mod
est nine or
ion inphrv;
this case!) the lace is carried to
the edge, so that Its 'Shadowy curves
skew up prettily against the ankle.
And as to undergarments they
nb:o are arriving at rhe vanishing
yoiut! For they start late and end
caily. and the newest, and most elu
sive fr.Lrie for their working Is fine
net!
A typical pair of combinations in
thia particular fabric is such u light
burden that only two long and nar
row shoulder-straps of satin ribbon
are needed for Its upholding. In fact,
anything else is rarely used now, as
chemises or combinations, whoso fab
ric was continued over the shoulders
and there finished off in the once or
dinary and universal way with lace
edgings and ribbon threadlngs, would
be unsightly and impossible as worn
with and clearly visible through the
seamless, semi-transparent curves o
the fashionable corsage.
For the rest, this particular and
pretty net garment is arranged with
alternating groups of graduated tucks
and tapering insertion of lace and
hand-embroidered sprays of flowers,
the same decoratively combined de
sign being repeated on the short and
yarrow legs, and the whole thing be
ing so lovely that It will certainly be
worn over the corsets and an inner
vest, and so do the duty of camisole
and petticoat or knickera as well.
For three garments one of these
being the corset represent the maxi
mum of underwear which the woman
who wants lo be fashionable and
slender will consent to don this sen
son. Wherefore the sale for c'icmise
and knicker sets has come to a sud
den and almost complete end. so far,
at. any rate, as the lav n and cambric
garments are concerned.
Fascinating frivolities in net and
ninon and crepe de chine are cer-
Some Points Concerning Invitations and Answers'
By Mrs. Frank Learned, Author of "The Etiquette of New York To-d: ." not courteous to say that one will
designated aB "Assemblies," tho
time-honored "Cotillon" having van
lahed from fashion and general
dancing being in favor.
Although Invitations for formal
" 1 dinners are usu-
ally engraved,
ffi it is more the
fferSX custom to write
invitations for
L?5- : I ' semi-formal af
, fairs. Certain
JfcK-zy rules are ob-
Afr served . Note
VJiin paper of best
vSs4&!& quality, with ad
r fitlsAVVV dress engraved
A $o at tho head, is
wffs- -2Z used, wordB are
laraHgjtv carefully spaced,
Pv;"tV ame8 aro wrlt-
EnBiiiiPrA 'en oa se)arato
JKLr Dinners and
jtiM'nKKm luncheonn in
. m honor of debu
tantes are the
J order of the
"There nxuut be no OF An lnvlta-
dclay In nunrrer- tion to a lunch-
in an invitation" eon may be:
Mra. Henry Mason
roquests the pleasure of
Miss Robinson's
company at luncheon
on Friday, January the second,
Rt hnlfpast ono o'clock,
to meet
Miss Dorothy Blank.
Although the full name of a hos-
tess is given by way of a distinc
tive understanding, the full name of
a guest is not written unless there
may be some reason for making a
clear Indication for whom the Invi
tation is Intended. The envelope
containing an Invitation should
haye the full name and street ad
dress. Informal invitations are notes in
the first person and are briefly ex
pressed. Dear Mra. JQlank:
Will you and Mr. Blank dine
with us informally on Friday
evening, January the second, and
go to the play?
Your6 sincerely,
MARY HALL.
Care in observing tho form of an
invitation should enable the recipient
to reply correctly, yet many persons
are In doubt what to do. It must, be
borne In mind that the same for
mula is used for an nnswer as that
which is embodied in the invitation.
If In the third person, It is answered
in that form; if in tho first person,
that formula is required.
While the rules of etiquette govern
the form and may ho learned, it must
be always remembered Uiat courtesy
and consideration for others are
principles which underlie social cus
toms. There should he no delay in
replying to an invitation which re
quests tho pleasure of ono's com
pany. To wait to send an answer on
the chance of receiving a more de
sirable Invitation In tho interval ia
extromoly discourteous and is a
selfish disregard of the convenience
of the hostess, who wishes to know
whom she may expect Although the
soclr.l world takes rciuaals as a mat
ter of course and fills up the gaps,
a hostess wishes to have time to find
eligible substitutes and not be com
pelled to have an ill-assorted collec
tion of guests. Acceptances or re
grets, therefore, should be sent with
in twenty-four hours after receiving
invitations to dinners, luncheons or
card parties.
An Invitation to a dinner suggests
a greater compliment than Is con
veyed by an invitation to any other
social affair.
An accept
ance of a din- WW
nbr invitation JfevHfi
makes it obliga- J fl$ '
tory not to al- -j finf
low any but tho .1 fjl K
moat serious j l.V$fc
cause to inter- j 'l''jpl
fere with being ih7$F57s
present. Illness ?
or very uncx- y'm fj
pected reasons 2foGzlyS''jj
may arise. It is SafiCcr?
true, and in a ?iA I
case of the sort FfeZ
a note of expla- 111 flint!
nation or a tele yk
gram must be 3 $fii
sent immediate- "5 f
I)' to tho IlOS- ttyMva-M
tess.
It is never al- .
lowable to on- tfli,B not prrmlH.
ter into any dls ibie for mvlfeto
cusslon or pro- accent nnd u Iium
vision with an hnnd fo r-rt-"
invitation to dinner, even when the
invitation may bo seralfonnal, It ia
vwinu ik i. lis ii ii, wt .j. nan i -
ered frcm iIL.ei.j; nor Is it permis
sible for a wife to accept nnd for a
husband to regret, or vice versa.
A reply to an Invitation should be
explicit and decisive. The custom Is
to repeat the date and hour when the
occasion requires definite punctual-it-,
thus:
Mr. and Mrs.
accept with pleasure
Mr.and Mrs. 's
invitation for dinner
on Tuesday evening,
January the Sixth
at eight o'clock.
When writing, a regret it is cus
tomary to say that "Mr. and Mrs.
regret that a previous engagement
prevents them from accepting Mr.
and Mrs. N 's kind Inlvtation."
The rule is to accept a first Invita
tion whenever it ig possible to do so.
Answors to invitations are written
on note-paper, not on cards.
it must bo remembered that an ac
ceptance or a regret Is written in the
present tense. It Is not correct to
write "will accept," or "will be un
able lo accept," or that "a previous
engagement will prevent," etc.
Answers to invitations aro ad
dressed invariably to the hostess
alone,
Friends or acquaintances who are
in mourning are not Invited to formal
dinners or luncheons, but they should
receive Invitationa for weddings, re
ceptions, "coming-out" teas for de
butantes and for all affairs of a gen
eral nature when It Is proper and
courteous to notify them of any Im
portant social ocourrence In a family.
I
"Woods in Spring," a Delight
fill Morning Costume of
Blue-Gray Taffeta Lightly
Trimmed with Sealskin.
tainly secured sometimes for wear
when corgeblcsa and tea-gowned ease
Is to bo enjoyed ; but as the necessary
completion for daytime and evening jH
costumes, a very closely fitting and jH
short chemise and outer knickers or
eulotte of milaneso silk or orepe de
chine arc the invariable and really
rather sensible wear.
No attempt is being made to popu
larize a new "jupoii-cvlotte" of milan
ese silk, which, by mean3 of a cou-
pie of inner and simple fastenings, jH
can either bo worn as knickers or
petticoat.
It is very cleverly nnd closely IH
shaped, and it is all bordered with a "jjjH
very slight and liat gauging, which
follows its upward curve nt the sides IH
and its. opening up the front. But, """"H
on the whole, I think the actual "jjjjjjH
knickers nre more practical ns well "jjjjjjH
as smarter. H
Some women, however, do not like "jjjjjjjH
the coivstrlction of the elastic gath- "jjjjjjjH
cring which finishes them off at the jjjjjjjjjjjjjj
knees, and so a good iuanj are now "jjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjj
being made to hang loosely there and jjjjjjjjjjjjjj
are edged with a tiny belting of lnce jjjjjjjjjjjjjj
or ribbon, their .slight opening at jjjj
either of the outer side seams being jjjjjjjjjjjjjj
surmounted by a true lovers' knot jjjjjjjjjjjjjj
bow or a wreath of wco dowers. jjjjjjjjjjjjjj
Altogether, our every item of attire "jjjjjjjjjjjjj
Is so delightfully dainty this season jjjjjjjjjjjl
that dressing is a special joy to say jjjjjjjjjjj
nothing of an exense! jjjjjjjjjjjH
But in aplte of and in strange jjjH
contrast to the present vogue for jjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjj
essentially feminine and fascinating jjjjjjjjjjjl
garments, this present season is also "jjjjjjjjjjjjjj
giving more than usual prominence "jjjjjjjjjjjjjj
to the pajamas which were ouce mo- "jjjjjjjjjjjjjj
nopolized by the "mere man," but "jjjjjjjjjjjjjj
which now. as designed for women's "jjjjjjjjjH
wear, arc being made in white, pink, H
blue or black tricot and made to jjjjjjjjjjjH
.mer-t.rc, too, ploa'Se note! "j"jH
Others arc being modelled in crepe "jjjjjjjjjjjjjH
dc chine, but. though a certain and jjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjj
very youthful type of girl can rnnii- jjjjjjjjjjjjjj
age to look exceedingly piquant in jjjjjjjj""H
such night attire, it is hopelessly jjjjjjjjjH
unbecoming to the majority of women. "jjjjjjjH
And; renlly. even for travelling pur- jjjjjjjjjjjH
pose?, there is no necessity for it to jjjjjjjjjjjH
be adopted, as the very plain night- jjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjH
dress of crept' do ch In e modelled on jjjjjjjjjjjH
pajama lines, as regards its fastening jjjjjjjjjjjH
nt ihe neck and its finishing with a jjjjjjjjjjjH
breast pocket 1- just as practical jjjjjjjjjjjH
and infinitely prettier and more suit- "jjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjH
And my final word, nt the moment. jjjjjjjjjjjH
on the oubject of underwear and jjjjjjjjjjjH
night dresses will be to proclaim crepe jjjjjjjjjjjH
do chine ns the ideal material and jjjjjjjjjjjH
the simplest style of making as tho "jjjjjjjH
jj"j"H
I have often previously drawn at- jjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjH
tent Ion to this piirtlculnr and perfect "jjjjjjjjjjjH
fabric, and so I take a certain "jjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjj
amount of personal pride in being "jjjjjjjjjjjH
able to tell you now that it is the "jjjjjjjjjjjH
success of the season, it being already "jjjjjjjjjjjH
certain that it will supersede all tho ""H
ordinary and once universal whlto "jjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjH
lawns and so forth. "jjjjjjjjjjjH
Tills fact is. indeed, being bo fully "jjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjH
realized by the buyers of all the lead-' "jjjjjjjjjjjH
ing outfitting departments that they "jjjjjjjjjjjH
are, I hear, making their arrange- "jjjjjjjjjjjH
in en Is and placing their orders ao- jjjjjjj"jjjjjj
cordingly. laH
Let me give you a "tip," however; HLLI
which will insure some permanent ("jjjjjjjjjjjH
satisfaction with every such newly jjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjH
acquired crepe dc chine: garment. jjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjH
Be sure (o always choose, them to jjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjH
pink shadings, as the pure' white U "jjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjj
apt to acquire a yellowish tinge after "jjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjj
a certain amount of washing, whereas IjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjH
tho pink will in course of time only jjjjjjjjjjjjjjH
grow slightly and still attraotivJJ5 jjjjjjjjjjjjjjH
paler. """""""""""""H

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