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EHE WASBm(3tT0'K .JSEBMjy,. Bipm.Y, FEBRTTAEB 18, 1912. . i. BY MRS. A. T. ASHMORE. "ft THE Lenten season is a most suitable time for the preparation of the summer outfit, and surely there could be no more chastening atmosphere than the one that surrounds the woman who tries to evolre a satisfactory wardrobe for Men a fair amount of money. February 15 sees the horde of dressmakers apd department bouse buyers in- Paris, one and all engaged, in selecting the only ex clusive (?) models. They are home again by the middle of March, but long before that time the models arrive and are dis played to just the favored few of the many customers, and the great turmoil and strife of spring and summer dress making is on with a rush .It is a i de lightfully exciting, the " styles are so markedly different from those that have been seen (sometimes); the materials arc quite unlike last year's (sometimes), and the extraordinarily high prices demanded and obtained give the finishing touch of excitement and ijterest But the pru dent woman, even though she be pos sessed of. a most satisfactory bank ac- count, does not wait for the floodtidc of enthusiasm to engulf her and to sweep away her judgment. She has had, if she be a person of importance socially and financially, advance sketches and infor mation from her own dressmaker and designer in Paris, and long before the general pnblic has caught on she is busy having her little gowns made up so as to have time to epend selecting carefully what she most prefers from the quan tities exhibited later. Bargains in Fabrics. This is the season of the year for the little dressmaker, the clever seamstress who can grasp an idea quickly and who is a born artist. Such a woman is inval uable, for she can be relied upon to copy any gown she sees or make a gown from a fashion illustration so that it will have some air and styie, and who only lacks experience in clothes, "knows clothes," as the saying is, to become a first class dressmaker. The shops are "full now of wonderful bargains in all sorts and descriptions of materials. Brocades, silks, satins, all thj transparent fabrics and, of .-ourse, 'the novelties, so-called, but the latter have not to do with these schemes it is the marked down fabrics of last autumn and this winter that are. selected and made up Into the most attractive and fascinat-. wg, or, as one woman says, we most g- siantnt of he elaborate and "fussy"styles gravating of Inexpensive gowns. Exactthat aw. eonUinpJated.. The -absolutely copies one-third the price asked -forfpiain siirt.wasHonga.go doomed. -Whether the original model only a few short weeksW many flounced model will take its ago ua me moaei gowns ,uiemseives,ipiace remains to be seen. marked .down to. unbelievably-low .cost,! A deslin-that Jound favor Ut,.nfm are worth Inspection,, often, requiring is-reproduced with only triflingTvariatlons merely the outlay of a few dollars to-put-in the liberty satinor-taffeta eilk one Uiem in perfect order. .piece gown that 4s- to 'be absolutely es- Unquestionably are we threatened wlthjsentlal for the spring and summer.' -The i""1'"! luiuciu uuuu.ta uuu tuwcsiaioqei nu. no.iess nan, six scalloped and without number, and the long, gracefulJbound'rufBes with,a(band of;ruching and Sines may soon be lost under the "on-Ja' beading of' the" same, scalloped ruffle. OIa ; E Lace Trimmed and Embroidered Silk and w. fnB '"';'"iB'1 N&rlF iPli ' Chiffon Gowns. and Wraps, ls!tjplfe,'" V 'JH ' "" -5sMsB &"'6ss-S?a -" ? a '"'ILjfv " &JssHnBEoi'''!KsHK& 'h&WMM l- '.v. firKiHJE2a&f si '''' iHBbbbsbsbk 4v fHSSap s9ssks9ksks9ksksksS.3IksHksbsb ' -bsfsbbbbb Is" ,iV X -b jKnUntfiJE "sbbpBbKF " V " ,SiLii: iJalSli irr "" i ll ' V ' Elaborate-Gown- of Salmon Pink Liberty, White Filet and Gold WSWmK 0 WifESkL. . " fl! TT1 " MSiSk,Evenine WP of Sbided Grcii and SilLn Green- 7 wMHlflf 1 L ls?-''7v.ssllssSBsarmB -aBaii Tniif Tinn. c.au' t? Ji ? j . ... .. i I )? v ..sssssBisBFi 1 1 4i 1? -Kw " -ra$jLjw'v'i "iyyiuiwiwiucrca wiin ouvcr x-iowers. I u.BSU ! I I I IS 'r.. . HssHiKB V 3 I -1 . -' l-wfe .H-ssssss1 ; I lit"" k7vksksksHkksB -ASSi In " I '.ijslslslslslsHl' ' J I I 1 IVv' ' . 'aBBE''ivi''-' ' I I ll '" ssssssssssUu 'ill W'iJWB'Yr t iT : : " I n 111 :4sssssssssBV 'l I n ' . isisBmm t f?l 1 Embroideries are to be as fashionable U J 1 J ?n7Hk- . vil I Iff "?"?'- y"' ssssfltSml j- ' as eTer -Qt tnere -s a decided modifi- , '.MJJP "Nji I f lTvlfS T issHssViL'is"'' "S I cation of the overdone, too conspicuous 111 I g'j ll I I 1 iS' HsssssssxlKn v "SM I work In favor of much simpler and more ' I JU'CPBB- ' S? f I 1 IciV1 rslBE"'ljirm I artistic patterns. The embroidered mus- 1 fgjJ- T4 MsB&O&.i? fik lCyf-. 'iiM-m ' ' Iins are fasc5n!lliD8,y attractive, while' UZgr-r--Z. ii1I!g I I Sfe? ' sssslKsKsMlflK l in-sol t satin, crtpe de Chine, mousselinc l'' - ffl I . -A ' v -. - Front View of :. Afternoon Gowr iff Pinsy Tp3es. or Violet, The elbow sleeves are .finished with two1 of -the same ruffles. The-belt-is placed high in, accordance with -the short 'waist and-is trimmed with. a wide fichu of 'fine white Jape. .iJown the front .of the gown is' a succession o stiff bows, much on the 'same order as are seen on slippers. As may betasily understood, this style oi. gojtn. auorns sn usexampiea oppor tunity for dressmakers to demand higher prices on account of the', high cost of sxiiied labor, -men as is necessary .tor u: making oTrufflsa-. Embroideries are to be as fashionable as ever, but there is a decided modifi cation of the overdone, too conspicuous work In favor of much simpler and more artistic patterns. The embroidered mus lins are fascinatingly attractive, while' in-soft satin, crtpe de Chine, mousselinc de tsoie and chiffon there is an endless variety. A most ponular modtl for a simple evening gown appeared late this winter and b now being copied for the summer. The gown is of liberty satin, pale pink, with overdress of white mous- seline de sole embroidered in pink silk and finished with a narrow ball fringe. - The waist is on the severe order that is mosf -becoming to a good figurvand while the waist line-is high, it is placed to give the best and longest lines to the skirt. This gown, is one of .the best models for'the, over- skirt of a different material, end theskirt can be taken as a good one to copy in darker materials for. the street, only then it must be made' short. Exaggerated simplicity .is to be a marked note in fashions for the summer. Ex pensive1 materials are. tucked and gathered so, that the beautyo the fabric la, quite lost, and the most inexpensive -of ma terials are trimmed with costly- laces, while in absurd contrast there are. the moil expensive-materials combined with imita tion laces and embroidery the so-called Hamburg, edging, a'inachhw made eyelet embroidery, is, for instance, fashionable and trims India silk and satin street gowns.' There Is a model that for some unknown reason 'has' acileved-popularityji fashion, we may soon expect to see manj striking examples with the return of tb American buyers and dressmakers fros; (Paris, for the latest models axe heavil) lace trimmed. lake the tunic of white filei lace, combined with gold lace, here showa, the under dress of salmon pink satin. veiled with malines net over the shoulders. is plainly visible only below the tunic Lace in Demand. Lace and embroidered robes, laces and embroideries in the all-over designs, were never more in demand than at the present moment. Putting white over 'color brings out the pattern of the lace mar vellously, while the unique idea of com bining white and black lace is most clev erly worked out. In these days, when, the low cut evening gown is accepted as ob ligatory for restaurant dining or for the theatre, many more evening gowns are re quired in a season's .outfit, and lace and satin gowns are most popular. The same gown copied all inr black and white is most effective with silver embroidered black lace or all silver substituted for the gold. This last makes a more sombre gown, but an even smarter one, than with the pink satin. Evening wraps are becoming more and more gorgeous. Made of rich silk, satin and tapestry weaves, with gold and metallic designs, or, like the one here pictured, of green silk so heavily interwoven with sil ver threads, its green, .transparent tis sue, embroidered with silver flowers. it becomes a shimmering mass of beautiful lights when slipped over the elab orate evening gown that takes on an added lustre from its glittering proximity. The early models were fur-trimmed, and now some of the later ones show wide velvet facing bands and deep cape-like revers. Baclc-View of Afternoon Gown in Pansy Tones; the; Foundation Is of White Silk. coat at nrst glance looks -like a. tennis or simple morning gown, but which a second glance reveals to bo a quite expensive gown. It ia made of finest pink mousse- line de sole, -trimmed with guipure face.-a wide band finished with silk fringe, that hows beneath the lace edge that ia" U deep.points.- One of those pretty French afternoon gowns composed, of several layers and tones of chiffon; and which have become so popular for wear under the fur- coats;, or elaborate afternoon carriage wraps, has1,' over the princess foundation slips "of white satin, several Tellings "hung and draped,! of pansy colorings from mauve to .violet There is-a touch of embroidery on the.'nar- row and inconspicuous-belt that .defines. rainer man accents tne waist line, which, witn an, attractive lit tie turned-about col lar jabot, completes a graceful, gowa of (well made"- elaborate ami aruUe--8iianlIatyl, The.upper part of the skirt and'the en tire waist are in' pin tucks, the narrowest posaioie. xne sleeves are long, on the order of the old fashioned shirt aleeve, finished with deep cuffs of lace, and -the sailor collar is also finished withTlaee. At the throat.it U held together with a but terfly, bow of pink satin. Delightfully in consistent, .was one comment on this model, which-can be made useful for. either a simple morning gown- oc an afternoon gown. For' 'the former- only the general Hdca of 'the tucked skirt and shirt waist is required; for the latter the materials and trimming-can be selected to suit the Indi vidual taite.' lt(is an"excelleot model for a "muslin or cotton voile, and' need not be Lat all-expensive, only .the, word-of warning Coiffures Concealing Ears Grow in Popularity. THE fashion of wearing the hair so that it entirely covers the cars is gauuug popularity in .aira tu such an extent that now hardly & woman, is to be discovered among those who make any attempt to keep up with the fashions who has so much as an ear tip showing. All sorts of devices are resorted to to make this style acceptable to the majority of women, to whom it is not naturally becoming. The girl with a low forehead and round face is best abla to wear this styie of coiffure easily and be comingly, as she has only to part her hair In the middle and bring it down over the ears, fastening it in a low knot in the back to complete a very attractive arrangement. Bnt for the woman with a high forehead and a narrow face there Is no end of diffi culty in arranging her hair to be both be coming and smart. Sometimes she parts her hair on one side, waves it and allows it to .fall over her forehead in a deep waved puff before carrying over the ears. She also resorts to the fringe' across the forehead, using it in connection with hair parted in the middle and fastened on the nape of the neck in a loose, curling knot. It is' possible to pull the long hair down around the forehead and earsaiter It has been curled and fluffed sufficiently and then fasten it down with a bandeau. The ends of the hair are then heaped on top of the head in toft puffs. So exaggerated has this fashion become that sometimes- tha hair is brougnt half way across the cheek in front of the ears, and the effect when it 1s flattened down is almost that of Xord Fauntle'roy curls, or, when Jhe hair is Of lace.-surely and steadily returning to must be: given that, all apparently simnte jfashions require to be carefully fitted andTstraighter, of side whiskers. -This exag geration, however, the woaia -f fod lasie u Doucfl jo toig tf- ..-,- -;,-.