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The Washington herald. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1906-1939, February 18, 1912, Magazine Section, Image 27

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Persistent link: https://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn83045433/1912-02-18/ed-1/seq-27/

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EHE WASBm(3tT0'K .JSEBMjy,. Bipm.Y, FEBRTTAEB 18, 1912. . i.
BY MRS. A. T. ASHMORE. "ft
THE Lenten season is a most
suitable time for the preparation
of the summer outfit, and surely
there could be no more chastening
atmosphere than the one that
surrounds the woman who tries
to evolre a satisfactory wardrobe for
Men a fair amount of money. February
15 sees the horde of dressmakers apd
department bouse buyers in- Paris, one
and all engaged, in selecting the only ex
clusive (?) models. They are home again
by the middle of March, but long before
that time the models arrive and are dis
played to just the favored few of the
many customers, and the great turmoil
and strife of spring and summer dress
making is on with a rush .It is a i de
lightfully exciting, the " styles are so
markedly different from those that have
been seen (sometimes); the materials arc
quite unlike last year's (sometimes), and
the extraordinarily high prices demanded
and obtained give the finishing touch of
excitement and ijterest But the pru
dent woman, even though she be pos
sessed of. a most satisfactory bank ac-
count, does not wait for the floodtidc of
enthusiasm to engulf her and to sweep
away her judgment. She has had, if she
be a person of importance socially and
financially, advance sketches and infor
mation from her own dressmaker and
designer in Paris, and long before the
general pnblic has caught on she is busy
having her little gowns made up so as to
have time to epend selecting carefully
what she most prefers from the quan
tities exhibited later.
Bargains in Fabrics.
This is the season of the year for the
little dressmaker, the clever seamstress
who can grasp an idea quickly and who
is a born artist. Such a woman is inval
uable, for she can be relied upon to copy
any gown she sees or make a gown from
a fashion illustration so that it will have
some air and styie, and who only lacks
experience in clothes, "knows clothes," as
the saying is, to become a first class
dressmaker.
The shops are "full now of wonderful
bargains in all sorts and descriptions of
materials. Brocades, silks, satins, all thj
transparent fabrics and, of .-ourse, 'the
novelties, so-called, but the latter have
not to do with these schemes it is the
marked down fabrics of last autumn and
this winter that are. selected and made
up Into the most attractive and fascinat-.
wg, or, as one woman says, we most g- siantnt of he elaborate and "fussy"styles
gravating of Inexpensive gowns. Exactthat aw. eonUinpJated.. The -absolutely
copies one-third the price asked -forfpiain siirt.wasHonga.go doomed. -Whether
the original model only a few short weeksW many flounced model will take its
ago ua me moaei gowns ,uiemseives,ipiace remains to be seen.
marked .down to. unbelievably-low .cost,! A deslin-that Jound favor Ut,.nfm
are worth Inspection,, often, requiring is-reproduced with only triflingTvariatlons
merely the outlay of a few dollars to-put-in the liberty satinor-taffeta eilk one
Uiem in perfect order. .piece gown that 4s- to 'be absolutely es-
Unquestionably are we threatened wlthjsentlal for the spring and summer.' -The
i""1'"! luiuciu uuuu.ta uuu tuwcsiaioqei nu. no.iess nan, six scalloped and
without number, and the long, gracefulJbound'rufBes with,a(band of;ruching and
Sines may soon be lost under the "on-Ja' beading of' the" same, scalloped ruffle.
OIa ; E Lace Trimmed and Embroidered Silk and w. fnB '"';'"iB'1
N&rlF iPli ' Chiffon Gowns. and Wraps, ls!tjplfe,'" V 'JH '
"" -5sMsB &"'6ss-S?a -" ? a '"'ILjfv " &JssHnBEoi'''!KsHK& 'h&WMM l- '.v. firKiHJE2a&f si '''' iHBbbbsbsbk 4v fHSSap
s9ssks9ksks9ksksksS.3IksHksbsb ' -bsfsbbbbb Is" ,iV X -b jKnUntfiJE "sbbpBbKF " V " ,SiLii: iJalSli irr "" i ll ' V '
Elaborate-Gown- of Salmon Pink Liberty, White Filet and Gold WSWmK 0 WifESkL. . " fl!
TT1 " MSiSk,Evenine WP of Sbided Grcii and SilLn Green- 7 wMHlflf 1
L ls?-''7v.ssllssSBsarmB -aBaii Tniif Tinn. c.au' t? Ji ? j . ... .. i I )? v ..sssssBisBFi 1 1 4i
1? -Kw " -ra$jLjw'v'i "iyyiuiwiwiucrca wiin ouvcr x-iowers. I u.BSU ! I I
I IS 'r.. . HssHiKB V 3 I -1 . -' l-wfe .H-ssssss1 ;
I lit"" k7vksksksHkksB -ASSi In " I '.ijslslslslslsHl' ' J I I
1 IVv' ' . 'aBBE''ivi''-' ' I I ll '" ssssssssssUu 'ill
W'iJWB'Yr t iT : : " I n 111 :4sssssssssBV 'l
I n ' . isisBmm t f?l 1 Embroideries are to be as fashionable U J 1 J ?n7Hk- . vil
I Iff "?"?'- y"' ssssfltSml j- ' as eTer -Qt tnere -s a decided modifi- , '.MJJP "Nji I f
lTvlfS T issHssViL'is"'' "S I cation of the overdone, too conspicuous 111 I g'j ll I I
1 iS' HsssssssxlKn v "SM I work In favor of much simpler and more ' I JU'CPBB- ' S? f I
1 IciV1 rslBE"'ljirm I artistic patterns. The embroidered mus- 1 fgjJ- T4 MsB&O&.i?
fik lCyf-. 'iiM-m ' ' Iins are fasc5n!lliD8,y attractive, while' UZgr-r--Z. ii1I!g I I
Sfe? ' sssslKsKsMlflK l in-sol t satin, crtpe de Chine, mousselinc l'' - ffl I .
-A ' v -. -
Front View of :. Afternoon Gowr iff Pinsy Tp3es. or Violet,
The elbow sleeves are .finished with two1
of -the same ruffles. The-belt-is placed
high in, accordance with -the short 'waist
and-is trimmed with. a wide fichu of 'fine
white Jape. .iJown the front .of the gown
is' a succession o stiff bows, much on
the 'same order as are seen on slippers.
As may betasily understood, this style
oi. gojtn. auorns sn usexampiea oppor
tunity for dressmakers to demand higher
prices on account of the', high cost of
sxiiied labor, -men as is necessary .tor u:
making oTrufflsa-.
Embroideries are to be as fashionable
as ever, but there is a decided modifi
cation of the overdone, too conspicuous
work In favor of much simpler and more
artistic patterns. The embroidered mus
lins are fascinatingly attractive, while'
in-soft satin, crtpe de Chine, mousselinc
de tsoie and chiffon there is an endless
variety. A most ponular modtl for a
simple evening gown appeared late this
winter and b now being copied for the
summer. The gown is of liberty satin,
pale pink, with overdress of white mous-
seline de sole embroidered in pink silk
and finished with a narrow ball fringe.
- The waist is on the severe order that is
mosf -becoming to a good figurvand while
the waist line-is high, it is placed to give
the best and longest lines to the skirt. This
gown, is one of .the best models for'the, over-
skirt of a different material, end theskirt
can be taken as a good one to copy in
darker materials for. the street, only then
it must be made' short.
Exaggerated simplicity .is to be a marked
note in fashions for the summer. Ex
pensive1 materials are. tucked and gathered
so, that the beautyo the fabric la, quite
lost, and the most inexpensive -of ma
terials are trimmed with costly- laces,
while in absurd contrast there are. the moil
expensive-materials combined with imita
tion laces and embroidery the so-called
Hamburg, edging, a'inachhw made eyelet
embroidery, is, for instance, fashionable
and trims India silk and satin street
gowns.' There Is a model that for some
unknown reason 'has' acileved-popularityji
fashion, we may soon expect to see manj
striking examples with the return of tb
American buyers and dressmakers fros;
(Paris, for the latest models axe heavil)
lace trimmed. lake the tunic of white filei
lace, combined with gold lace, here showa,
the under dress of salmon pink satin.
veiled with malines net over the shoulders.
is plainly visible only below the tunic
Lace in Demand.
Lace and embroidered robes, laces and
embroideries in the all-over designs, were
never more in demand than at the present
moment. Putting white over 'color
brings out the pattern of the lace mar
vellously, while the unique idea of com
bining white and black lace is most clev
erly worked out. In these days, when, the
low cut evening gown is accepted as ob
ligatory for restaurant dining or for the
theatre, many more evening gowns are re
quired in a season's .outfit, and lace and
satin gowns are most popular. The same
gown copied all inr black and white is
most effective with silver embroidered
black lace or all silver substituted for
the gold. This last makes a more sombre
gown, but an even smarter one, than
with the pink satin.
Evening wraps are becoming more and
more gorgeous. Made of rich silk, satin and
tapestry weaves, with gold and metallic
designs, or, like the one here pictured, of
green silk so heavily interwoven with sil
ver threads, its green, .transparent tis
sue, embroidered with silver flowers.
it becomes a shimmering mass of
beautiful lights when slipped over the elab
orate evening gown that takes on an added
lustre from its glittering proximity. The
early models were fur-trimmed, and now
some of the later ones show wide velvet
facing bands and deep cape-like revers.
Baclc-View of Afternoon Gown in Pansy Tones; the;
Foundation Is of White Silk.
coat at nrst glance looks -like a. tennis or
simple morning gown, but which a second
glance reveals to bo a quite expensive
gown. It ia made of finest pink mousse-
line de sole, -trimmed with guipure face.-a
wide band finished with silk fringe, that
hows beneath the lace edge that ia" U
deep.points.-
One of those pretty French afternoon
gowns composed, of several layers and
tones of chiffon; and which have become so
popular for wear under the fur- coats;, or
elaborate afternoon carriage wraps, has1,'
over the princess foundation slips "of white
satin, several Tellings "hung and draped,! of
pansy colorings from mauve to .violet
There is-a touch of embroidery on the.'nar-
row and inconspicuous-belt that .defines.
rainer man accents tne waist line, which,
witn an, attractive lit tie turned-about col
lar jabot, completes a graceful, gowa of (well made"-
elaborate ami aruUe--8iianlIatyl,
The.upper part of the skirt and'the en
tire waist are in' pin tucks, the narrowest
posaioie. xne sleeves are long, on the
order of the old fashioned shirt aleeve,
finished with deep cuffs of lace, and -the
sailor collar is also finished withTlaee. At
the throat.it U held together with a but
terfly, bow of pink satin. Delightfully in
consistent, .was one comment on this
model, which-can be made useful for. either
a simple morning gown- oc an afternoon
gown. For' 'the former- only the general
Hdca of 'the tucked skirt and shirt waist is
required; for the latter the materials and
trimming-can be selected to suit the Indi
vidual taite.' lt(is an"excelleot model for
a "muslin or cotton voile, and' need not be
Lat all-expensive, only .the, word-of warning
Coiffures Concealing Ears Grow in
Popularity.
THE fashion of wearing the hair
so that it entirely covers the cars
is gauuug popularity in .aira tu
such an extent that now hardly &
woman, is to be discovered among
those who make any attempt to keep up
with the fashions who has so much as an
ear tip showing. All sorts of devices are
resorted to to make this style acceptable
to the majority of women, to whom it is
not naturally becoming. The girl with a
low forehead and round face is best abla
to wear this styie of coiffure easily and be
comingly, as she has only to part her hair
In the middle and bring it down over the
ears, fastening it in a low knot in the back
to complete a very attractive arrangement.
Bnt for the woman with a high forehead
and a narrow face there Is no end of diffi
culty in arranging her hair to be both be
coming and smart. Sometimes she parts
her hair on one side, waves it and allows
it to .fall over her forehead in a deep
waved puff before carrying over the ears.
She also resorts to the fringe' across the
forehead, using it in connection with hair
parted in the middle and fastened on the
nape of the neck in a loose, curling knot.
It is' possible to pull the long hair down
around the forehead and earsaiter It has
been curled and fluffed sufficiently and then
fasten it down with a bandeau. The ends
of the hair are then heaped on top of the
head in toft puffs. So exaggerated has
this fashion become that sometimes- tha
hair is brougnt half way across the cheek
in front of the ears, and the effect when it
1s flattened down is almost that of Xord
Fauntle'roy curls, or, when Jhe hair is
Of lace.-surely and steadily returning to
must be: given that, all apparently simnte
jfashions require to be carefully fitted andTstraighter, of side whiskers. -This exag
geration, however, the woaia -f fod
lasie u Doucfl jo toig
tf- ..-,- -;,-.

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