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- THIS WASHINGTON HERALD. f SUNDAY, MARCH 22s 0914: r Mr H r . - . . , . ,! Ull - - I II ' ' ' ' ' r-0' BY f&AG& JfaJftfLL - - ; - ; : ; ; r I ; t. :; - ; ... jyf EtUKS'lfiKS f -tiHn IP&sft i .';; . - "V' f ' 'Ooilbes f & Planar "' tjM y V la's ?iU VSHUKfAiMH -niJWi jflflK& s I l Vvi. Kn mi vui WW H: IMP ISHPH 111 K5k vs via Wr lnW I Pills Greece gare the model for this chiffon blouse, clasped o the shoul der with cameos. Violet and green charmingly combined, and topped off with a dainty fichu suggestive of Marie Antoinette. A striped silk collar gives distinction to the tango gaberdine suit on the left On the right is a frock that makes the day of the bustle seem near at hand. V Poiret frock of red and blue that seems to ignore the tendencies at work in fashions. As the excitement and flurry always attendant on the orenfiiKs, Ixjth in the spring and In the autumn, of the new season's fashions die down, a very sat isfactory silhouette is evolved for our ap proval. The skirts are short. There are few slashes. The waistline is not sharply dciined. The hips are generally exan cerated with drapery, panniers or tunics. The bodice is still loose, but there is a tendency toward the titling basque, which may or may not develop. There is an Interesting historic aspect to the stles of the moment. The dress of the women of the court of Louis XV and Ixuls XVI Is called on; panniers and fichus and tight bodices come from that time, and perhaps the coiffure, which ex poses the forehead and part of the ears, is also reminiscent of those days. The Directolre period has given us some details the waistcoat and the lone sleeves that flare over the hand aro some of the details of that period that we have seen fit to copy. So are the striped fabrics that we make use of. Louis Philippe and the second French empire are both responsible for other de tails. Witness the bustle-like drapery and the rumors of hoops, the long. Jersey like outline of the waist and the odd mantles and dolmans that are made fur evening wraps. We still hear something of the Orient not much. But Turkish skirts, trouser llke In appearance an appearance that Is produced by the clever manipulation of gathers were seen at the recent French openings. And perhaps the Kast can be held responsible for our lavish use of beads and color. Then there -Is a decided suggestion of Greece the Greece of the ancients In the sleeTeless evening gowns. In our use of cameos and in sons of the draped bodices that are still shown. It Is to the credit of the great de signers that they have been able to make anything tangible, wearable, and attrac tive out of the many Influences that have been at work. The dissatisfaction on the part of the buyers expressed at the spring styles Is not remarkable. It is remarkable that there has been no more dissatisfaction than there has been. TTto SeniuiUons. The time has gone by when the big French dressmakers could. If they would. Ignore the American public American money Is essential to French prosperity, so far as the dressmakers are concerned. o they have begun to bid for American trade, and whether the tactics they are now using will help them or hurt them. It is too soon to.telL Taquln Is one of the designers who has startled the dressmaking world and rolrct Is the other. Taciuln for the last thrrc weeks has Iktii giving Atntricans a chance, for the prnc of a seat at the opera, to see at a fashionable hotel In several cities all the spring Paquiri models. Of course, tlilt action on I'aquln's part attrarted attention and a good deal of criticism. Many of the buyers In Paris, hearing of the turning showing of Panulu costumes in America, boycotted the house. Paquin. it seemed to thorn, had committed a breach of trade etiquette. It was the privilege of the buyer to show, through the house he represented, the models of the French dressmakers to the American public. On the other hand, the American wom an Is Interested m this chance to see all the models of a French dressmaker with out trusting to the taste and dlscrlmlna tlon of a buyer to choose from them for her. Undoubtedly the houses here that have not boycotted 1'aquin will do a big busi ness in her models. For no one could buy direct from SIme. Joire. Mme. I'aquln's sister-in-law, who engineered the "Exposition d'Art," as the Paquin clothes show was called. Paquin ex plained before the exposition began that It would be necessary to order duplicates of the models from American dealers. Paul Poiret. perhaps lamenting his popularity last autumn, when the min aret tunic spread bis fame, did the sec ond startling thing. And In France this was considered quite as startling as Paquln's innovation. Poiret had silks manufactured in America according to his designs, and he used these American-made sUks in many of the clothes he exhibited at his spring openings. He used these silks for dresses. hat, and wraps. Details of the Xerrest Frocks. One of the details of the new fashions that have been well worked out is the collar. Perhaps the reason it can be celled well worked out is that so many different sorts of collars are used at the moment. One charming French model designed by Poiret shons a collar in a rather new form. The frock is made of blue and red printed silk. There Is a collar which looks as If it had started out to be a sailor collar, but which turns out to be the back of the blouse and meets In front In a tie at tho neck and a belt at the waist A .little knot of Ihe same .silk: nnlshex the three-ouarter length sleeves. There Is a low, flaring collar of white- lower than most of the new ones, and flaring In a delightful line. The nklrt of this frock, by the way. is noticeable because of its simplicity. "Wh'Je other frocks are exhibiting the charms of tuni'-s ai'd panniers, puffs, and ruf fles, flounces, and yokcx. this skirt very openly acknowledges Itself as a plain, straight gathered s.kirt. drawn right or ten inches above the hem on the right side Into a red silk buckle. Striiwd silk collars are seen on a good many of the new pcrge ana gabardine coat mils. They flare and bend back ipm li after the manner of the organdy collars. The lichu Is used effectively now and then, one frock of changeable violet and green taffeta Is finished with a deep pur ple velvet girdle and a sheer net tichu. The frock Is quite simple. The skirt Is folded In pannier from about the hips, and the bodice Is cut on klraona lines. Cuncreii and HradKcar. It is ilimcnlt at first thought to see how Congress could havo had a hand in the making of fashions and yet that is exactly what has happened. For when last year the bill was passed which prohibited the sale of aigrettes and paradise feathers. In this country, mil liners at once began to devise substi tutes for the plumage of the protected birds. When the law first y -t Into effect ter ror must have swept through every poul try yard in the country for the impres sion seemed to be that the only sub stitute millinery manfacturers could pro duce for the taboo plumage was to be contrived of domestic fowl. Chanticleer's distress was uncalled for; his plumage is no more in demand than ever. Result number one of the search of the milliners was the invention of the pro cess of making so-called "burnt ostrich" feathers, which have been launched on the millinery market with great suc cess. The effect of these feathers Is the same as that of alsrettes; but they are In no wise an Imitation. They are a substitute. The next result probably the most far reaching result is the present vogue for artificial flowers and foliage for smart milliner- Never before have there been such exquisite roses, apple blossoms. cornflowers, forget-me-nots, heliotrope end camel las as you can And this season p.nd never before were they used with such clever effect by the milliners. The small hat Is in great favor. Tne niniche shape that tilts sharply up at the back of the head, the trlcome. the sailor and various toque shapes arc all much worn. The bandeau has met with all the popu larity that was .predicted for it. Truly after so many years wl.cn only a climpse of a woman's hair has been vouchsafed the passerby the bandeau comes as a I pleasant change. p-?f a vw-ixw-srar-ss N- JTs riis.3' Ji ?-'-S??eVr " Beads of green and blue five an Eastern splendor to this brocaded chiffoi t f- .3- rfi-.li -ifi. .. ....- s&a , fiJ&k. -"- -c?j-r.v .. t ow.yj rr. v'-'j-V. ; om, .