The Washington herald. [volume], March 22, 1914, MAGAZINE SECTION, Image 37

About The Washington herald. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1906-1939

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Greece gare the model for this chiffon blouse, clasped o the shoul
der with cameos.
Violet and green charmingly combined, and topped off with a dainty
fichu suggestive of Marie Antoinette.
A striped silk collar gives distinction to the tango gaberdine suit on the left On the right is a frock that makes the
day of the bustle seem near at hand.
V Poiret frock of red and blue
that seems to ignore the tendencies at work in
fashions.
As the excitement and flurry always
attendant on the orenfiiKs, Ixjth in the
spring and In the autumn, of the new
season's fashions die down, a very sat
isfactory silhouette is evolved for our ap
proval. The skirts are short. There are few
slashes. The waistline is not sharply
dciined. The hips are generally exan
cerated with drapery, panniers or tunics.
The bodice is still loose, but there is a
tendency toward the titling basque, which
may or may not develop.
There is an Interesting historic aspect
to the stles of the moment. The dress
of the women of the court of Louis XV
and Ixuls XVI Is called on; panniers and
fichus and tight bodices come from that
time, and perhaps the coiffure, which ex
poses the forehead and part of the ears,
is also reminiscent of those days.
The Directolre period has given us
some details the waistcoat and the lone
sleeves that flare over the hand aro
some of the details of that period that
we have seen fit to copy. So are the
striped fabrics that we make use of.
Louis Philippe and the second French
empire are both responsible for other de
tails. Witness the bustle-like drapery
and the rumors of hoops, the long. Jersey
like outline of the waist and the odd
mantles and dolmans that are made fur
evening wraps.
We still hear something of the Orient
not much. But Turkish skirts, trouser
llke In appearance an appearance that
Is produced by the clever manipulation
of gathers were seen at the recent
French openings. And perhaps the Kast
can be held responsible for our lavish
use of beads and color.
Then there -Is a decided suggestion of
Greece the Greece of the ancients In
the sleeTeless evening gowns. In our use
of cameos and in sons of the draped
bodices that are still shown.
It Is to the credit of the great de
signers that they have been able to make
anything tangible, wearable, and attrac
tive out of the many Influences that have
been at work. The dissatisfaction on the
part of the buyers expressed at the
spring styles Is not remarkable. It is
remarkable that there has been no more
dissatisfaction than there has been.
TTto SeniuiUons.
The time has gone by when the big
French dressmakers could. If they would.
Ignore the American public American
money Is essential to French prosperity,
so far as the dressmakers are concerned.
o they have begun to bid for American
trade, and whether the tactics they are
now using will help them or hurt them.
It is too soon to.telL
Taquln Is one of the designers who has
startled the dressmaking world and
rolrct Is the other.
Taciuln for the last thrrc weeks has
Iktii giving Atntricans a chance, for the
prnc of a seat at the opera, to see at
a fashionable hotel In several cities all
the spring Paquiri models.
Of course, tlilt action on I'aquln's part
attrarted attention and a good deal of
criticism. Many of the buyers In Paris,
hearing of the turning showing of Panulu
costumes in America, boycotted the
house. Paquin. it seemed to thorn, had
committed a breach of trade etiquette.
It was the privilege of the buyer to show,
through the house he represented, the
models of the French dressmakers to the
American public.
On the other hand, the American wom
an Is Interested m this chance to see all
the models of a French dressmaker with
out trusting to the taste and dlscrlmlna
tlon of a buyer to choose from them for
her.
Undoubtedly the houses here that have
not boycotted 1'aquin will do a big busi
ness in her models. For no one could
buy direct from SIme. Joire. Mme.
I'aquln's sister-in-law, who engineered
the "Exposition d'Art," as the Paquin
clothes show was called. Paquin ex
plained before the exposition began that
It would be necessary to order duplicates
of the models from American dealers.
Paul Poiret. perhaps lamenting his
popularity last autumn, when the min
aret tunic spread bis fame, did the sec
ond startling thing. And In France this
was considered quite as startling as
Paquln's innovation.
Poiret had silks manufactured in
America according to his designs, and
he used these American-made sUks in
many of the clothes he exhibited at his
spring openings. He used these silks
for dresses. hat, and wraps.
Details of the Xerrest Frocks.
One of the details of the new fashions
that have been well worked out is the
collar. Perhaps the reason it can be
celled well worked out is that so many
different sorts of collars are used at
the moment.
One charming French model designed
by Poiret shons a collar in a rather new
form. The frock is made of blue and
red printed silk. There Is a collar which
looks as If it had started out to be a
sailor collar, but which turns out to be
the back of the blouse and meets In front
In a tie at tho neck and a belt at the
waist A .little knot of Ihe same .silk:
nnlshex the three-ouarter length sleeves.
There Is a low, flaring collar of white-
lower than most of the new ones, and
flaring In a delightful line.
The nklrt of this frock, by the way. is
noticeable because of its simplicity. "Wh'Je
other frocks are exhibiting the charms
of tuni'-s ai'd panniers, puffs, and ruf
fles, flounces, and yokcx. this skirt very
openly acknowledges Itself as a plain,
straight gathered s.kirt. drawn right or
ten inches above the hem on the right
side Into a red silk buckle.
Striiwd silk collars are seen on a good
many of the new pcrge ana gabardine
coat mils. They flare and bend back
ipm li after the manner of the organdy
collars.
The lichu Is used effectively now and
then, one frock of changeable violet and
green taffeta Is finished with a deep pur
ple velvet girdle and a sheer net tichu.
The frock Is quite simple. The skirt Is
folded In pannier from about the hips, and
the bodice Is cut on klraona lines.
Cuncreii and HradKcar.
It is ilimcnlt at first thought to see
how Congress could havo had a hand
in the making of fashions and yet that
is exactly what has happened.
For when last year the bill was passed
which prohibited the sale of aigrettes and
paradise feathers. In this country, mil
liners at once began to devise substi
tutes for the plumage of the protected
birds.
When the law first y -t Into effect ter
ror must have swept through every poul
try yard in the country for the impres
sion seemed to be that the only sub
stitute millinery manfacturers could pro
duce for the taboo plumage was to be
contrived of domestic fowl.
Chanticleer's distress was uncalled for;
his plumage is no more in demand than
ever.
Result number one of the search of the
milliners was the invention of the pro
cess of making so-called "burnt ostrich"
feathers, which have been launched on
the millinery market with great suc
cess. The effect of these feathers Is the
same as that of alsrettes; but they are
In no wise an Imitation. They are a
substitute.
The next result probably the most far
reaching result is the present vogue for
artificial flowers and foliage for smart
milliner- Never before have there been
such exquisite roses, apple blossoms.
cornflowers, forget-me-nots, heliotrope
end camel las as you can And this season
p.nd never before were they used with
such clever effect by the milliners.
The small hat Is in great favor. Tne
niniche shape that tilts sharply up at the
back of the head, the trlcome. the sailor
and various toque shapes arc all much
worn.
The bandeau has met with all the popu
larity that was .predicted for it. Truly
after so many years wl.cn only a climpse
of a woman's hair has been vouchsafed
the passerby the bandeau comes as a I
pleasant change.
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Beads of green and blue five an Eastern splendor to this brocaded chiffoi
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