The Washington herald. [volume], September 05, 1915, FEATURE SECTION, Image 30

About The Washington herald. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1906-1939

Image provided by: Library of Congress, Washington, DC

                
THE WASHINGTON HERALD, SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 5, 1915.
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Clrcnlnr skirt (.rnlloped tit the hot
loni a that og;;lii;; 11 III nit be no-ii-enble.
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The full skirt Is still with us.
The Paris openings are over and. as
In other more peaceful years, we have
taken the cue from Paris about the
clothes we shall wear through the
coming season. Paris says full skirts
The American designers w ho have
been working along their own lines,
developing made-tn-America fashions,
have also clung to the full skirt. So
whether you advocate Faris or American-made
fashions, your skirts must
be full.
There is little radically new in the
autumn styles. They are rather a
very logical development of the
styles of the past few months, with
a novelty of cut or trimming here and
there So the wide 6kirt was to be
expected
Altogether, the skirt of the autumn
is sensible, comfortable and becom
ing. It flares around the lower edge,
it fits smoothly oer .the hips. It is
short enough for comfort, yet seldom
cut to an exaggeiated shortness.
Knllnes at the Illpa.
The fullness at the hips Is one of the
problems of a skirt that must flare at
the bottom. Many gores attain the
ile.-ired result but many gores make
rather ugly lines of seaming We
have learned to like uncut widths of
material One cannot say we have
learned to like uncut lengths the
shortness of our frocks would deny
that statement before it was made.
Then there is the skirt cut on cir
cular lines th skirt modeled, it
seems, on a child's first idea for a
doll's frock, a circle with a hole in
It to slip over the head
Every woman who remembers the
circular skirt in its last revival shud
ders at the thought of another visita
tion of that atrootv. A skirt with a
straight. even lower edge when It was
first hung, it developed into a sag
ging, scalloped, uneven affair before
many days had passed. And if it was
to look even passably well, it had to
be rehung several times.
The circular skirt today has profited
by that other circular skirt. The even
lower edge was the difficult thing to
maintain in that, so today there Is
no even lower edge Instead there is
a blatantly uneven edge, cut in points
or rounded scallops or else longer
here, shorter there, to all appearances
just as the fancy of the dressmaker
suggests
There are detp hip yokes on many
of the new skirts some circular, some
with straight sections pleated to the
yoke. And there are still a few skirts
that are gathered or pleated abou
the vvalct many of them in tulle and
other thin fabrics for evening.
Fur Aealn.
Fur, If present indications hold
good, is to be more used this winter
than last perhaps than eer before.
The craze for white fox collars this
summer was lessened among the real
ly t-mart because there were so many
collars of white lamb's wool, cat and
almost any other cheap pelt at hand
and these were worn by the thou
sands who so quickly ruin, with pop
ularity, a fashion set by the few. But
there is no danger that the fur trim
ming predicted for the winter will be
come too popular. For one thing, tr
has many phases there is not Just one
fashion that all who see it may copy
Instead, there are fur hems on street
and house frocks There are standing
collars of fur. that reach quite to
the ears. There are all sorts of fur
cuffs Fur bands are u-ed on an thing
from tulle to gabardine And all sorts
of little fur noelties are used to
trim hats and frocks and coats and
blouses. Beaver, mole, marten, squir
much used
rel and ermine are
these fur trimmings.
A w ide fur hem on a short, flaring
skirt is decidedly effective, and a fur
fori wear It and they should not make the
mistake of trying to do so. For
them perhaps the purple shades will
serve for street frocks and suits, or
collar on cne of the high-necked; 'se ir.e uar. nra v..u tea uo
,.,,... f th .nn is nften the mostlnegre, which is fashionable, or the
becoming finish From this very fact
tlrtt fur is such an obvious part of
deep Bordeaux shade.
Blue is still in fashikn. Bright
shades of this color are to be worn
for evening. And navy blue Is never
really out of fashion for street wear.
the styles of the autumn there Is
every chance that its vogue will in
crease as the season goes on
Of course. Judging from the expe- It has been so much used in the last
rience of the last few seasons, the few seasons that if it were possible
fashion of wearing a wreath of flow- to put it out of fashion by popularity.
ers about the neck or carrying a muff
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of tulle may come in about Christmas.
There is something too altogether ap
propriate about the autumn styles as
they were launched in Paris in Au
gust to make them seem real or per
manent It is long since we have had
anything so obviously suited to the,
season as the full, short skirts, the 1
heavy, warm coats, with long sleeves
and high collars, closed across the
ihest. and the small, easily adjusted
hats that are the present fashion.
One noticeable thing about the fash
ions introduced at the French openings
is that many of the new skirts are
draped that is. panniers, even bustle
effects, and wide anil irregular folds
of cloth play an important part In
the new skirts' charm. These are not
new features the bus'le effect has
been struggling for recognition for a
j ear but they are combined, needless
to sav, in a novel fashion
The retv Color'.
It Is f be a season of purples. If
we are to tak our cue from Paris
At almost all of the openings, purple. !
pan'.v shades, and the shades called
nfhn'n pink lavender". really
are featured Unv, too. may se a re
vival of favor Grav, when properly
worn. I a charming color. There are
many persons, however, vv no cannot
it would long since have gone out of
fashion. It has been tested In every
way and Is still found acceptable.
.$ it -'',lVUv.
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Quaint frock with llfiht xray aklrt
nod dark kthv bodice, both of taffeta
ThP klrt I trimmed with roundabout
tuckn and band of embroidery, and the
little ni inert aero the nhouldera idd
410 the broad look of the frock.
"Wide flnuncr fastened to whirred
Toke ri lmple uhlte frock of net and
lace.
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Hip yoke effect! rely tued In frock of blue and black allk. The aklrt U all
Mir lrrralar at the lower edge, end lr. edj;ed Ith ball fringe.
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Deep -C"Hoi and a xtralcht ruffle
beneath maintain en eten loirer ede;e
no tbl mournlusr vrork or black ro
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