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The Origin of the Odd Figures on Playing Car da. THEY REPRESENTED REAL PERSONAGES History is Written in the Varying Costumes. THE EA8TERN ORIGIN |Trt'ti?n for Tfc? Creelag Star. THE AS8I8TANT secretary of t b ? Smithsonian Institu tion, Prof. O. Brown Goode, la preparing a monograph on play ing cards and their history, which will Include a description of many Interesting packs and parts of packs preserved from ancient times, and now kept in the Na tional Museum, in cluding specimens with designs executed on gold and silver, tortoise shell, ivory, mother of-pearl, parchment, leather, thin tablets of Wood, small tiles and even large leavea. The costumes of the pictured playing cards of the every-day pack are a fasclnat lrg study In themselves. They are so quaint and have become so highly conven tionalized that one would hardly suppose them to have been copied originally from real people; Yet such is the fact. The king, for example, is Henry VIII, as is proved by existing portraits of that mon arch, though on the card only a few sugges tions remain of the fashion and ermiue trimming of his garments, which were once covered with correct heraldic devices. In French and German packs the kings generally bear scepters or globes as em blems of authority, but the monarchs of Early French Playing; Cards, Repre sent! nc Justice. eard-lr.nd In England and America are war riors, tho.<*? of hearts, clubs and diamonds holding double-edged ? swords. Ths king of hearts is the most warlike In appearance, with his sword uplifted as If to strike a blow. The king of spades alone is armed with a battle ax. though why nobody knows. ? [ When Henry III ruled in France the cards became the reflectors of the extravagant fashions of the day. The card kings wore pointed beards, like the effeminate monarch, with collars stlifly starched, hats with long plumes, breeches puffed out at the hips, and, to make thtm look as womanly as possible, doublets pinched In at the waist. No sooner bad Henry IV mounted the throne than the pasteboard kings altered their costumes. At one time cards were Influenced by the Ital ian fashions and customs Imported by Marie dt Medici. During the French revo lution not only was the royal family de posed and beheaded, but the same fate fol lowed their majesties of spades, clubs, dia ir.on Is and hearts. Their places were sup plied by the figures of sages and philosoph ers. But the kinjrs and queens of the pack returned when the monarchy was restored in 181.1. Since then they have not been dis turbed. and they still reign In republican ft-ance as they do In the United States. Thr Queen and Her Costume. The queen of the cards Is Elizabeth of York, wife of Henry VII, and mother of Henry VIII. Various reasons may be Imagined for her rele-tlon and elevation to the paper throne. Her marriage Joined the houses of York and I.aneaster, rival claim ants for the English throne^ and termin ated forever the wars of the roses. In her portrait is seen, at a glance, the source of the cardmaker's Inspiration for the card Sieen. In the odd-looking head-dressis of ? four royal dames may easily be traced the resemblance to the straight lappets, richly embroidered with jewels, forming a cap. and hanging on either side of the face. pooxxxxx~yy:yoooo Comic ??Tarol," ItrprMrBiluf Two As tronomers. which make part of the dress in the picture it Elizabeth. In It her hair, which was of a pale golden hue. Is bande.l plainly on her forehead, and she has long, flowing, ermine edged sleeves. The color of the hair is re tained to this day. It will be observed that the queen holds the rose of York In her hand, this emblem having always been copied and retained. These matters of costume are described !n detail In a work by Mrs. J. K. Van Rens selaer. entitled 'The Devil's Picture Books," from which the writer has obtained a great part of his information. Ths authoress, nerself. possesses a fine collection of play o?g cards from all over the world. Ths Greatest private collection of playing cards i existence Is the property of an English woman, T,afly Charlotte 8chrelber, who Is now publishing a series of folio volumes. In which the most notable specimens are re produced. The history of England may be read on the cards of her first volume, which presents a series of pictures Illustrating the manners and customs of successive epochs. The cards of Germany, France and Spain will appear In subsequent folios. Origin of the Knaves. Mrs. Van Rensselaer refers to the fact that the grotesque dress of the knaves of the English packs has remained almost un changed during several centuries. It Is copied from the ordinary costume of the lower classes in the days of Chaucer. American cardmakers have cut the knavee In two, giving to each one two heads and leaving off the legs. The dress, as shown In the English cards, appears to consist of a short Jacket with flowing sleeves, the body being crossed by a sush. The knave of hearts has a battle-ax, and In his other hand a laurel leaf. The knave of diamonds holds a pike with a hook below the point. The queer-looking staff of the knave of clubs Is supposed to have been an arrow. The peculiar attribute of the knave of spades Is a twisted ribbon, which may have been a fool's staff once, with gay ribbons twined around it. The knaves of hearts and spades are in profile, while the others show their full faces. Why this Is so no body knows; they have had these positions as far back as the middle of the iifteenth century. The knave Is frequently called the Jack from his buffoon's dress, a slang name for Jester being Jack. In German packs the knaves are represented as worklngmen or peasants. The word for peasant being Bauer, hence the bowers right and left of euchre. The English term Jack-a-napes Is probably derived from Jack-a-Xalpes, or Jack-of-the-cards, Nalpes being the Span ish name for the pack. Cards la Early Days. Playing cards were brought to Europe from the east about the time of the cru sade, very likely by home-returning war riors. The gypsies, who at that period be gan to wander over Europe, are said to have Introduced them, using them as they do now for telling fortunes. The first packs contained seventy-eight cards, in cluding four suits of numbered cards and twenty-two emblematic picture cards, which served as trumps. The numbered cards were marked with swords, cups, ?ticks and money. Each of these suits con sists of fourteen cards, four of which were king, queen, knight and knave. The em blem cards had such pictures on them as an emperor, Cupid, a chariot, a hermit, the gallows, death, the pope, fortune, the sun and the moon. These early packs were called tarots or tarocchl. They differed a good deal In various localities. Pucks closely resem bling them are found today In parts of Germany and Switzerland which are not much frequented by travelers. In cards of this kind the emblem of death Is numbered 13. The notion of bad luck attached to Chat number is of oriental origin. A tradi tion relates that a Venetian?perhaps Marco Polo or his father, Nlccolo?first brought cards from China to his native city, which was the first place in Europe where they were known. In China playing cards are called "paper tickets." They used to be called ''bone tickets," from the material formerly em ployed. Several kinds of cards are used in that country. One pack has thirty-two covered with small circular dots in red and black, with court cards of one man and ?cne woman. Chinese cards are printed in black usually, on thin cardboard, one inch broad by three and a half Inches long. In some packs the cards have animals, such as horses or deer, printed on them. Whist Is of Chinese origin, and other European games are more than suspected of being derived from the same source. The playing cards of Corea are strips of thick unpalnted paper half an Inch wide and six to eight Inches long. The cards of India proper are circular. Persian can is are beautifully painted and lacquered. The quaintest cards are those of Japan. They differ entirely from any others in the world, the symbols on them having been invented on the islands. They are of the same shape as our cards, of pasteboard, with black backs, but only about two Inches long. The designs are stencilled on them, usually representing the months of the year by flowers and other emblems. There are twelve suits of four cards each, with one plain white card for a Joker. The Japanese children play with cards that have songs and proverbs on them. The modern cards are copies of the French packs of the fifteenth century, with modifications. But in Germany the old fashioned playing cards of that country are still manufactured, with suits of bells, hearts, leaves and acorns. Even these, however, have been so far changed that the hearts are surrounded by champagne bottles, the acorns have a loving cup, the bells are accompanied by a punch bowl and with the leaves are hour glasses and goblets as parts of the designs. There are no queons, the places of these royal ladles being taken by the knights on horseback in . beautiful uniforms. A German friar, Thomas Murer, first conceived the notion of adapting cards to the lnstruotlon of children. This idea has been developed un til now It Is possible to study history, geog raphy and many sciences with playing cards. Babies In the nursery learn to spell and to read from their games. Hnngary'i Thousandth Year. From the London Dally News. The Hungarians are making preparations on a grand scale for a millennial exhibition, and the governmant addressed a prayer to the emperor that he might lend them all the historic relics In his possession which have any connection with Hungarian his tory. The emperor, our Vler na correspond ent says, granted the request, and a num ber of Hungarian historians and antiquar ians have come to Vienna to study the im perial collections and make a list of the ob jects In question. They have selected a great number, which represent a value of 2,000,000 florins?if the value of unique historical relics can be ex pressed In figures. Among these objets are copies of the portraits in relief of King Mathlas, Corvlnua, and Queen Beatrix, a brorze bust of Mary, Queen of Hungary; broDie reliefs of Adrien Fries, Illustrating the Hungarian wars; the remnants of the crown of King Andreas and the Imperial globe, dating from the fourteenth century; the double cross that belonged to Lewis the Great, with relics of Christ's cross;.a map of Hungary engraved in a metal plate, a nautilus-shaped cup, with the arms of the Batthjants. It Is easy to Imagine what efforts will be made In Hungary to prevent these objects from returning to Vienna when once they have been in'the Hungarian capital; and if they are left there, surely Prague would ask for all that referred to Bohemia in the Imperial collections, and Cracow for all that referred to Poland. Winter Exile In the South. Prom th? Academy. O alien flowers 1 unseasonable blooms, Tl.at In this new translucent temperate air Bide the sad truth, ilk* garland* bung from tomla! Winter within la winter erarywhere; And nothing me your heartlma splendors stead. Your aloes scarlet, your magnolia's snow; That, strange to that tar clime irliers I was bred, 8ue*k not of boue and friends and long aco. -GKOitOS noSSjrjua. THE PARIS BALLET The Music, Rhythm and Beauty of It Gone, THE FRENCH IDEA OF BALLET The Effect of the Conventional Teaching in Grand Opera. VIENNA'S SUPERIORITY Correspondence of Tht Evening Star* PARIS, September 19, 18M. NB NATURALLY | Imagines Paris to be the center of the w^orld for ballet. The Parisians themselves think so. Yet I con fess that on the eve of the commence ment of the Paris autumn season in amusements m y thoughts go back re gretfully to the grand opera of Yien _ na. and that what I most look forward to In Paris for the coin ing winter is the advent to the New Olym pla of a flne ballet troupe from London. Shall I ever forget my first impressions of the ballet at Vienna? I had come fresh from the anatomical displays of half trained and completely willful pretty gh Is in the scratch companies of our own dear land, as unruly and as fleshly as the heifers In the meadows, whom no ballet master could drill into shape, without a spark of sentiment or understanding or imagination; fresh from the comic opera and extravaganza choruses, all swaying rhythmically. Idiotically, in three long rows to an interpolated waltz song, executed by a prima donna by the footlights. It was a change to sit In the Vienna Opera House of a serious ballet night. It was an education to watch the unfolding scenes of the "Tanzmarchen." This one piece lasted three hours, exclu sive of the introduction, on Mount Par nassus, where pretty Marie Kohler tripped J alone upon her toes, then taught an amla [ ble but clumsy goat-legged Pan to dance. He played his pipes while going through his steps. It was the birth of dancing. Scene after scene succeeded, religious I dances by the holy Nile and on the helgh'.s of Glbea, the feast of Mars In Rome, with nothing lacking, for it is the Story of the Dance, until its modern apotheosis In the Hof-Operntheater?very naturally?with all the pretty modern ballerinas of Vienna going up to glory in a blaze of gold and I pink and white. Throughout the piece an extra human in terest was kept up in the sentimental his tory of a nyinph. On Pama&sus she was given her choice, either as a reward or punishment; the Genius of Time was called upon to pass her through the future; and she chose to know the future of the dance. In every scene there was this sweet girl changed?by the altar of the dog-faced An nubis,In the holy mysteries of David's danc ing worship, in the oak forests of Britain and of France, where silver-bearded Druids worked themselves to fury. There was one scene by a castle of the middle ages, where some yokels came to danoe beneath an elm. Attracted by the sound of flutes, two ras cally young pages from the castle slip upon the scene to lead away the dazzled country beauties from their hayseed lovers. Again it was a dance school In the middle of the present century, where opportunity was given to see measures trod whose names are scarcely known now?the courant, the pavane, the Sarabande, the minuet and the I gavotte. In another of their classic pieces?the "Wlener-waltzer"? it was the history of the Vienna waits, from Its conception in the I brain of an old dancing master a century ago down to the dainty fancies of th* modern ballerinas, shown to him, by es pecial favor, in a prophetic dream. He had I fallen asleep after the chagrin of fruitless lessons In graceful steps, which he had been giving to a party of pretentious country | gentlefolks. The room begins to darken, and a great mirror seems to change into a door, as Alms of gauzo rise one by ona. Out step a dozen delicate and pretty dano lng girls In modern ballet costume. They nod knowingly to each other as they tip toe about the somber little room, holding their fingers to their lips for silence. Then one sits at the rickety, tinkling, little spinet of the time, commences gently one of Strauss' waltzes, while the orchestra gives a discreet and gently modulated accom paniment to the noiseless steps of the kind hearted dancing girls of 1893?who are dream shadows, not of the past, but of the \ future. The French Way. Now I respectfully submit that this is | different from the skips and turns of bold eyed Frnch girls at?well, say the Paris opera, if you ever get a chance to see I them?for these dancing ladles seldom con [ descend to dance; the bold-eyed girls who leave you no illusion, their armpits black ened with burnt cork, even when they are blondes; their mouths obscenely painted out of shape, dancing of love and only love and ; always love. You will not see the "Pup peafee" In Paris, the children's story of the fairy doll who animates the dolls at mid night in the doll fair. The French would I laugh at Its simplicity and childishness. Yet when you have a set of dancers who can act, aud when you have a German poet to conceive th? plot?but these you have not got in Paris. The Paris opera scarcely gives ten hallet nights throughout the season. There are dance interludes in operas, but even these | are cut down or cut out outrageously. In Thais the composer, Massenet, pU.~sd a great deal of very pretty ballet music. As I originally produced there was a long and I pleasing ballet in the second act, with [ demons and good angels and trials and en chantments. in the good old style. Scarcely five nights passed when it was all cut out. Perhaps Miss Sanderson, who Is extremely influential, thought that the public ought to be content with what she showed so? generously. Perhaps the dancing girls of the grand opera?who all hold government positions?tired of dancing. Perhaps the | Paris public?that is to say. the publlo of the opera?does not care for ballet. This latter has been often given as the explanation of the actual decline of serious | ballet In the gay French capital, where oil things seem to be upon a reckless gallop straight to a vulgar anarchy, where what la gross and mean and low will rule. The | great restaurants have disappeared before the triumphant advance of the beer and sauerkraut brasserie and taverne; the great cafes have disappeared, because the publlo prefers to sit between, before and after meals In the same brasseries. The vulgar musio halls are emptying the theaters. For eight years past the gay French cap ital has been more celebrated for the danc ing horrors of the Moulin Rouge and the | Casino than for the classic or even the | spectacular ballet. The chahut, the "eccen tric quadrille," with its "split" and "carrv arms," has been well termed the "phyl loxera of choreography." And after it, the specialties in all the music halls. The state ment of the bare fact that Otero, with her | diamonds, with her crow's voice and her stamping heels and silly movements, was the real dancing celebrity of the last win ter season, and that ihe Sisters Barrison (from America) ran her a hot second in the popular estimation, Is to sum up the whole situation. It Is very different from the times one reads of when the Eden Theater was doing Sieba, Messallna, Vlvi ( ane and DJemmah. There are six places in the Paris of today where ballet continues to hold on as some thing of a specialty. They are the Grand Opera, the Gaiete Theater, the Chatelet Theater, the Folies Bergere (variety thea ter), the Olympla Music Hall and the Nou veau Theater (attached to the dance hall of the Casino de Paris). It Is true that they talk of reopening the Eden Theater, to revive the ballet glories of 18?3, but every one predicts that the venture will end in failure. Add to the places already named the Porte Saint-Martin, which now and then gives comic opera on a large scale, with a dance, and the Boutfes, which some times made a specialty of the new panto mime, of which L'Enfant prodigue and Scaramouche are the best known examqlar and you will have the tale of the ballet told. The Grntd Opera Ballet. I AjB to grand opera ballet. It la sufficient to say that It Is an ^expensive troupe to keep up (there are latf In It), although the In dividual salaries, except to stars, are mod erate. The opera baUet school Is, like the opera, a state Institution. Any parent may place his child in it, and have her education go on free, on signing a five years' engage ment for her after graduation. After graduation, as an actual fact, only a per centage of the pupUs are received Into the opera ballet troupe. The others find places outside. The fortunate girl first goes Into the quadrilles, at a salary of $180 a year, then becomes a coryphee at 130*), and then a "subject" at $400, and often finishes among the stars. If she has not stopped on the way in a "petit hotel." There is an other side, however, to the money qustion, from the danseuse's point of view. Between it and the creaking of the bureaucratic wheels an explanation may be found of why one seldom sees anything but vague and transitory dance interludes at the Grand Opera, in spite of its much boasted ballet troupe. All the best seats at the Parts Grand Opera are sold beforehand, for the season, to subscribers. Each subscriber has his seat one night each week. An orchestra chair costs 2,000 francs, a box 10.000. To be a subscriber to the opera gives the right to enter the foyer of the dance and pay court to the ladles. As the French say. voila tout. After a girl has passed her ex aminations and Is received into the quad rilles, her great preoccupation is. not to dis tinguish herself in her profession, but to find a serious friend. It is an understood thing. Mothers count upon it when they place their daughters in the classes. The little girls themselves count on it as they do their painful exercises. To have one's horses, and one's house, to have a villa and to play the races?that is the ambition of the dancer of the opera. Beside the regular subscribers, who are pleased enough to chat with the danseuses, the transient public of the opera goes to see the house, admire and be admired. The great public does not require much dancing?or much singing either. If the truth be told?so there la little dancing. Pass the Grand Opera. I, for one, have never had a moment's pleasure In It. At all the other theaters where the dance still survives, the great majority of all the more Important "subjects" are girls trained in the Grand Opera ballet school. Now, there is something cut and dried about French teaching which Is paiftful to the foreigner wherever he encounters it, in dentistry, in medicine, in social usages, and even In religion. The girls who graduate from the Grand Opera ballet school have all their steps and turns; they do them just so. as they have been taught. And, m a single word, they dance like trained dogs, Laat winter the Empire Music Hall, in London, sent over to the new Olympla a company to play the ballot "Brighton." It had a great success. The star. Miss Love day (I think that was her name), had move ments full of flowing grace, a sentimental face, and pretty pantomimic ways, that seemed both honest and spontaneous. But when the ballet of "Brighton" had got well going, the Olympla manager, following French custom, began to weed out, one by one, the "foreign" dancers and to substitute French girls. At last the star went also. The Wooden nei?a of It. It is a woodenness which characterizes all F-ench ballet of the present hour. I think It comjs directly from the ballet school of the Grand Opera. And It, perhaps, has had no small eftect in weaning the great public from the classic ballet, to wan der in the free and easy meadows of the Moulin Rouge. The wooden girl spins, steps and bounds, with her fixed smile of Invita tion. her bold eyes, her painted arm-pits and her mispalnted mouth. To finish with the new Olympla, the latest news !s that it has been sold, tog*ther with the Moulin Kougo and the Jurdln de Paris, en bloc to the Empire Music Hall Company of London. This winter the OlyrnpU will be run as a lirst-class London music hall, with ballets from the empire, which will have at least the virtue of great novelty and life and ac tion. At the Galete Theater It Is the habit to give long ballet pieces, often of considerable merit, between the acts of some light opera, like the "Chimes of Normandy." They pay such dancers as Lltini?who, to be correct, is not a dancer, but a "mime." The ballet of the "Chimes of Normandy"?"The Gath ering of the Apples"?which is now on at the Galete, Is long, and makes a very pret ty picture. But it is not great ballet. They are also always on the lookout for novelties at the Galete. Not long ago they had a ballet Interrupt Itself to let a girl do the "serpentine dance" in a cage of lions. When Loie Fuller was dancing at the Folles Ber gere she had a young American girl stay ing with her, waiting tor a London engage ment. Her specialty was wing dancing. If that Is what they call It. a kind of negro dance, and very entertaining. The ballet mistress of the Galete was present at one of her impromptu rehearsals one rainy win ter afternoon, on the stage of the Folles Bergere. She liked the wing dance, and she offered the American girl a good sum week ly to Interpolate it into a ballet of Breton fisher girls, in the piece then running. The offer was accepted; but when Miss went down to the first rehearsals, the mis tress of the ballet and the ballet also were all scandalized because she said she must black up and wear the costume of a south ern negro girl. "You can't dance blacked up! We canrot allow It!" "How shall I do, then?" "You must wear a premiere's cos tume?white gauze, whtto tights?you must make yourself convenable and pretty." The girl explained It was Impossible to do a wing dance that way?that It would be ridiculous. But they were obdurate. At last they told her that she might dress like a Breton fisher girl. She refused. She said it would be too ridiculous. So the engage ment was canceled on the spot. The French girls, who were Interested and not at all Jealous, told her she was foolish. "What difference does It make to you, If you get your salary?" they would ask her. At the Chatelet Theater they run to fairy pieces and spectacular representations, like the ever-youthful Michael StrogolT. The ballet company Is recruited from all over; though regularly the stars are even better than the Galete affords Itself. But the great majority of the coryphees and lesser lights are distressing in their personal ap pearance. It Is not alone that they are often well along In years; both Subra and Mauri, the two stars of the Grand Opera, are fat and middle-aged, each having the appearance of being somebody's aunt or mother rather than a fairy of the dance. But the dancers of the Chatelet are also very plain faced. Here, at least, America has Its own advantage. Most of our girls are pretty, to say the least At the Folles Bergere there Is a very special company. All the girls are gradu ates of the Grand Opera school, and some of them have left the Opera troupe to make more money in the less aristocratic theater, Campana. the chief dancer, is a beautiful young woman and a really good dancer. There are scarcely more than thirty In the company. Most all have pretty faces and do well. The Folles Bergere has long been known for its ballets. Now and then such men as Armand Sllvestre and Catulle Men des write scenarios for this company. Do ing so, they go in for the beautiful as the French understand it?love pieces, which are, nevertheless, utterly uAsentlmental. What they amount to Is scarcely more than a series of animated tableaux. Loie Ful ler's long engagement at the Folles Ber gere raised the tone of the establishment very much indeed. And departing she has left behind her footprints which perhaps another?but there Is no perhaps about It. There will certainly be some other serpen tine dancer at the Folles Bergere during the coming seson, for Miss Fuller herself has made other arrangements for Paris. But the higher tone which she gave to the establishment of the Kue Kichter has had an elevating effect even on its ballet. Without knowing anything about the clas sic ballet herself, she persuaded the young ladies who had graduated from the Opera school to loosen up a bit, to give themselves more swing, to be lass wooden than their teachers had trained them up to be. At the Nouveau Theater the new panto mime, which was going to astonish the world a few years ago. Is varied by bal let pieces scarcely different from 'the Folles Bergere. As to the new pantomime (l'En fant Prodlgue, Scaramouche, etc.). will It have the brilliant future which enthusiasts were only a short time ago predicting fur It? Will It become, as some have said, the sole and only theater of the future? "That is not flattering to the dramatic authors who still know how to write dialogue. There Is little danger of It." This Is what tho staid and settled Parts critics say of a very beautiful attempt to give to Paris something more like the story ballets which "very one who knows Vienna has learned to love so well. Tiie attempt Is already a failure so far as ^he Immediate future la concerned. The pantomimes were pretty, but there was not enough real dancing In them to have suited the Vienna taste. Meanwhile Parisians who wish to see true ballet In Its highest form?uniting beauty, youth, sentiment, story, scene and merito rious music?must take Vie Orient express for the Hof-opern theater. STERLING HEILXQ. VISITING CARDS A Glimpse Into the Workshop Where They Are Made. THE TRAISED HOD AND EYE Preparing the Pasteboard for Its Advent Into Society. CRESTS AND MONOGRAMS A! Written Exclusively for The Evening 8t*r. T THIS TIME OR ders for engraved vls (ltlng cards are being left In the shops by those who have de pleted the contents of their card cases dur ing the summer out ing. How few.though. even among those well Informed In mat ters of greater mo ment, understand the difference between an engraved vli ltlng card and one printed from type. A very general expression heard at the engravers" shops from customers la "to strike off" such a number of cards, and they are surprised to learn when they have bought no plate that such a thing Is necessary. In many respects the printing of an en graved card Is a process very similar to the printing of etchings, st.?el engravings and other pictorial subjects made on plates of metal. The pictures or Impressions from these latter are In minute relief. That 1s, the Ink lays on the paper like sand on sand paper, and this relief Is the cause of much of the softness and beauty of the pictorial subject, for notwithstanding the minuteness j of the relief of the lines and dots of ink above the surface of the paper they each cast a shadow, and the blending of the real lines and dots with the shadows creates an effect that cannot be attained In any other process. This same effect adds, also, to the artistic value of an engraved visiting card or Invitation, and coupled with this is the advantage of originality, since a per- J sonal card can, of course, b.i only Imitated In the general style of the lettering. So one's card cane Is filled with what may be considered not Improperly proof engrav ings. Ia the Ilanda of the ^ngratrr. If one des^-es to use engraved cards and has no pUte, a plate will have to be en graved. After an order for such has been left at a shop.lt Is sent.with Instructions as to the style of lettering and such other de tails, to the engraver. This artisan sits, usu ally.at an adjustable sloping table placed be fore a window?one that opens to the north. If possible. In order to secure that subdued light which Is best for all graphic purposes. He also has before him. frequently, a screen of white tissue paper, which further softens the light and prevents redactions on the bright metal surface upon | which he engraves. The implement most I used Is a graver, which Is a little bar of h?rd steel, generally of a triangular shape, fitted in a handle and sharpened at the end. ICngrnvtr at Work. I obliquely, to a point of requisite filncness. Then there are a number of subordinate tools, such as tiny double-pronged forks of different widths, for marking parallel space lines on the plate. T squares, burnishers and scrapers, ull used either to prepare the plate for the work of the graver or finish it up after that tool has been used. Copper and steel plates are used, the former about a sixteenth of an Inch In thickness and the latter about double that thickness, and these are procured from the manufacturers In a nearly finished condition, and are fur nished In certain sizes. When an engraver Is given an order to execute, say for a visiting card, he first takes a copper plate that will suit the size ' of card selected, rubs down the surface with charcoal and oil and then buffs It bright with a felt buffer. Upon the now highly ! polished surface he slightly scratches, with a quill or pointed stick of wood, a sketch of the required name backward, as all such work must be In reverse on the plate. With the little forks he scratches next guide lines for the width and slant. Aided by a magnifying glass supported In a frame he proceeds to cut Into the plate, with a graver, the name he has previously sketched In This is vt-ry delicate work and easily shows the skill of an expert In the beauty and firmness of the lines and curves and In the formation and Joints of the let term. It is obvious that large plate? require more time, and, whan the subject is an elab orate design or picture, the adoption of a combination of mechanical and chemical means is often necessary to accomplish the final result. The ruling machine is a deli cately adjusted piece of mechanism for pro ducing tints to Imitate the flat wash ittects In drawings. The fine, close parallel lines that most often make up the skies in an en graved picture, the background of a por trait or the shading of lettering and fancy work in a letter heading, are done with a ruling machine. Nearly all fine engravings have some ruled tints upon them, and others are almost entirely of these ruled lines, as, for example, the steel engraved pictorial calendars, so frequently seen of late on efflce desks. Bitten by Acid. These tints are made by a diamond point drawn over the plate by the machine, moved by hand. The plate has been first coated on I both surfaces with an acid resisting wax. ' and the diamond cuts through this coating and exposes the surface of the plate in many fine lines. In order that the latter may have depth enough in the plate to hold It k, chemistry is resorts^ to- -that Is, the plate is subjected to a bath of diluted acid, which eats into the parts of the waxed plate exposed by the diamond. This whole opera tion of coating with wax, ruling and biting with acid, may bo several times repeated, with resulting effects of cross hatching, deeper tints and the like. In most Instances before this ruling has been done the greater part of the hand work has been either en graved or etched with the aid of acid Into the plate. After the final retouching by the engraver with his Instruments the finished plate goes from his hands to the printer. I.Ike the engraver, the printer may be ao cording to his abilities and ambition either an expert or merely a skilled workman, but In any cas? he Is one who must exercise ex treme care In his occupation, or the easily damaged plates he handles will quickly be tell-tales of his bungling. For printing from engraved plates a platen press is used. It is made un of. first, a bed or slab of Iron, upon whlcn the en graved plate rests, and this bed 1s supported between two Iron rollers or cylinders?a large one on the under side and a smaller polished surfaced one at the top. The roll ers are supported Ln Iron tr<upe, at on* bI4? of which Is a large wh?cl or set of radiating arms, worked by hand, for turn ing the small roller, the revolution of which moves the press bed with Its engraved plate under tne roller and by pre.isure against the plate makes the Impression. The frame Is supplied with screws for regulating the pressure of the small roller against the bed. Platen presses differ In some respects ac cording to make and Improvement In pat tern. but the foregoing description Is sub stantially true of all. For ordinary com mercial printing none of the presses Is large. The bed reaches about to the prin ter's waist, and the press doee not exceed a couple of feet In width. Having received the plate, the printer de cides, from the nature of the design or subject of the engraving, and from the quality of the paper or card to be used, whether he will require a hard or soft "backer," By this Is meant that to make sure of bringing all the Ink from out of the plate, the printer will either tightly wrap the upper roller of the press In several thicknesses of paper, or In soft blanket*. Plate Printer at His Press. He sometimes underlays the plate with thin paper In places where heavy shadows appear In the engraving, and thts Insures, by the differently distributed pressure, a good rendition of the lights and shales In the printed Impression, or If the subject be merely lettering. It brings out the Una IHes strongly. Hut this proceeding requires the greatest caiefulnesa and judgment on the part of the printer. The pressure necessary to bring all the Ink out of the lines of the plates on to the paper having been exactly determined, the printer begins making the impressions. On more modern makes of presses the plate, with Its underlay*. Is kept In a stationary position on the press bed. without being lifted from the inking slab to the bed, as in the old way. The plate is "filled in" either with a roller made of soft textile materia) thoroughly coated with an Ink composed of a mixture of dry color, oils and dryers, or the Ink Is daubed on with a dauber of simi lar material to that of the rolltr. In either way, the plate Is quite coated over with the Ink. With a soft roll of cheese cloth the printer dexterously wipes off the Ink from the surface of the plate, so that none Is re moved from out of the lines, and then, with the hand alone and a little whiting, quickly polishes away the stains left by the oily Ink. The paper Is then laid upon the plate. Girls usually do this, and are called feed ers. The wheel at the slle is then revolved by the printer, sending the press iwd. with the plate and paper, under the roller. Mod erated by the "backer" on the roller, the lessure. to a certain extent, drives the ber of the paper down Into the engraved lines containing the Ink, ahich adheres to the paper after It Is removed from the plate. Engraved Letter Paper. This whole operation of filling in. wiping and polishing the plate and printing each Impression separately Is continued until the onler Is completed. Expedition Is gained on modern presses by * quicker movement ot the bed In going under the roller and In Its being brought back to Its former position automatically. The Impressions being In re lief, are easily smirched, and have to be carefully laid aside In rows to permit the oily ink to dry. Etchings and the like, which require artistic development previous to the pulling of the Impression. such as the mak ing of tints and high lights on the surface of the plate by the printer himself, are best done on the old-fashioned presses of slow movement. The monograms, crests and address lines that are so much used on correspondence papers nowadays are also usually made In shops where plate printing Is done, as the two arts are closely allied. Combinations of letters making the personal monograms, or the address lines as they appear on let ter paper, are engraved most usually on little blocks of steel, called dies. In a way similar to engraving on a plate. Crtsts and coats of arms are best when sunk Into the die. That Is, the engraver, after first cutting or etching the ruliraents of the design in the metal, sinks It de< per by beating into it with a hard steel punch, and afterward retouching the design with the graver. This method In the resulting Im pression presents a very high relief and ber.utlful finish. Some engravers make a specialty of slnHng dies and do no other kind of engraving. Stamping from dies is an operation quite dissimilar to plate printing. The press used for the purpose Is small, but massive, and rest* on a stoutly built bench. The die It held engraved race downward, fastened In a little movable steel case that lit* In a groove at the lower end of a vertically supported short steel bar, which transmits to the die a stamping movement, received by the bar being struck on Its upper surface by the downward revo lution of an upright steel screw, operated by hand. The die is drawn upward away from the paper, after the impression Is made, by a set of powerful springs. Like plate printing this process necessi tates an abundant use of Ink. a very small quantity of which appears In the impression on the paper. The die ts removed from the press, but while still In the small case is Girl Stamping. "filled In" by the stamper, with a small brush full of a thick Ink of the necessary color and mixed with a brilliant varnish. This Ink or color, as It is better termed, fills the engraved depths of the die, while a great deal more Is left by the brush on the surface, which has to be wiped off by passing the die quickly over a pad of Smooth, thin pr.per. kept for the purpose on the bench at the right-hand side of the ? tamper. Perfect relief In a stamped Impression Is attained by using a counter die, made by gluing bits of straw board or canl on the flat surface of an iron slot Immediately under the die. which, when struck by the die, becomes a permanent relief Ir.ipies ?ion, which presses the thin sheet of corre spondence paper up Into the die, whenever an Impression ts made The pressure la thus exerted In two directions. The paper counters require to be trimmed with a band knife to ault the exact proportions of the design on the die, otherwise the paper be comes bruised around the Impression when ?tamped. W. 8. O. RAILROADS. PENNSYLVANIA RAILROAD Station corner of 6th nod h streeta. Id effc-t Jiilit- 24, IKiK. 10:80 A.M. PENNSYLVANIA LIM ITED.- Pullmaa CVini]?rtiu?ut, Kleeiiluir. Dining. Sniuking and Ot>ser ion Car* Hnrrlsburg to Chicago, Cincinnati. In dlana|>oita, Clevelrod and Toledo. llufiet Tartar Car to Harrlsl-urg. 10:30 A.M. FAST LINE.-Pullman Buffet Pertsr Oar to Harrlaburg. I'arlor and Dlulng Can Uu> rlsburg to Plttaburg. 8:1ft T.M. CHICAGO AND W. IXXT8 EXPRM. ?Pullman Buffet Parlor Car to Harrl?l>urg. Sleep ln( and Dining Cara Harrlstmrg to ?1. Lou la, Cincinnati, Loolsrtlle and CTilcago. 7:10 P.M. WEKTKUN EXPRESS. -Pullman Bleep ing Oar to Chicago, and Uarrlsburg to Cleveland. Dining Ckr to Chicago, 7:10 P.M. 801THWB<TERN EXPRESS?Pnllmaa Rl^iilng and Dining Oara to St Louis, and Sleep ing <Ar Harrlkliurc to Cincinnati. 10:40 P.M. PACfrlO EXPRESS.-Pullman Beep ing Oar to Pittsburg. 7:6t? a.m. for Kane, Oaaandalgna, lodmtai Ul ?ViT* Falls dallr. except Baals y. 10.Su a.m. for tfllmlra and Reoovo, dally, i ^or Wllllamsport dally. 8 IB pm. TjlO p.m. for Wllllamsport. Roch?wt*r, huamm S. . "fS1* Falls dally, except Saturday, erlth t?p!s* yaahlnfton to Rochester. 10:40 p.m. for Erie. Canandalgua, Koch eater ant Buffalo dally, and Niagara Falla dally, except Sat ^11 Sl.ej.lng Car Washington to fcmlra, and Saturdays only Washington to Rochester. For Philadelphia, New Tort and the Best. 4 p.m. t*?NGKESSIONAL LIMITED," all Par l?r rV Dlnlrg Oar from Baltimore, foe New York dally, for Philadelphia week days. 7 ?. 7.:S5? <?"nl,? " 00, *40 (Inning Oar). and 1 .a0kr> ??1- 12 *?. ? ift. 4 90. lOKW and 11:88 p m On Sunday, 7:20, 7 6.1 (Dlnltw Oarl, 8:00 11:00 mining Cart am . IS 18. 8 lT 4:30, 10:00 and 11:38 p.m. For Philadelphia only. Faat Expreaa, 7:60 a.m. weak day*. Kxpreae, 2:0i and 6:40 p m. dally. For Boston without change, 7 JO a.m. weak day* and 8:1ft p.m. dally. For Baltimore. 8:46. 7:20. 7*0. 7*5. 8 40. 10:30, 11:00 and 11:60 am.. 12 16. 2:01, 8:ll I4:<si Limited), 4:20. 4:88. 8:40. 8:14. 7:10, MM 10:40, 11:16 find 11:85 D m On Saaday, t:S 7:ftft, 9:00, 8-06. 10:30. 11HI0 am.. 12 16. l:l? 2:01, 8:18 (4:00 Limited). 4.30. #:4t. 4:14, T:10c 10:?0. 10 40 and 11:88 p.m. Fur Pope'a Creek Una. 7:*0 a.m. and 4:88 p.m. da%, except Rncdar. For Annapolla. 7:20, 8-00 and 11 *0 a.m., an* 4:20 p.m. daily, except Sund-ij. Suutlaya, W 00 a. m. ?rd 4:20 p.m. Atlantic Ones" Line Kiprna for Richmond. Jack ornvin, and Tampa, 4:80 a.m.. 8 30 p.m. dally. Rl' liinond and Atlanta. 8:80 p.m. dally. Richmond or.ly, 10:87 a.m. week daya. Accommodation for Quantlco, 7:48 a.m. telly. And 4:26 p.m. week data. For Alexandria. 4:80, 8:8ft, 7:46 8:4<h 8 46. 10:57, H:50 a.m.. 13:&>. 1:40, 8:2ft. 4:25, 6 00, 8:37, ?:15, 8:02. 10:06 and ll:t?J>.m. On Sundu at 4:10. 7:46. 8:48 A.B.. 2:46. 8:16, 6:02 and 10:? p.m. Irfaee Alexandria for Waahlngtna. 8*6. 8:48. 7:06, 8:00, #10, 10:16, 10:28 a.?., 1:00. *18. 8:00, 8 23, 6:00. 6:80, 8:18, 7:00, 7:?. 8:16. 10:81 and 11:0S p.m. On Sunday at I'd, HI" 10:28 a. ?>..2:15. 6:10. 7:00. 7:10. 8:18 and 10:62 p.m. Tl<-ket offloea, northeaat corner of 13th afreet and Pennsylvania avenue. and at the atatlon. 8th and B streeta. where ordera can be left far tka cbecfc lng^ol^bacgag* to duetlnaUoe from holala and r?al d. tL PREYOST, I. R. WOOD. Qeneral Macager. Gen'l Paaa. Agt nell SOVTHKBN RAIT.WAT. _ (PIEDMONT AIR UNI). Schedule la effect July I, 1884. All tralna arrive and leer* at Pennsylvania Pae aenger Station. WaaUlngtun. D. C 8:00 a-m. dally?Loeal for DanHIl* and Inter m4-<llate atatlone. and contMx-ta at Lyocbhorf wttk tbe Norfolk and Weatern railroad westward, dally, and at klanaaaaa for Straaburg, dally, except bun <y 11:01 a m., TTTTI GREAT BOTTHKRt FAST MA1I -Dally, mx-ratea Pullman Buffet Sleetiera, New York and Waablngton rla Charlotte and 0a luinl>la to Karannnh and JackaonTllla, uniting at Charlotte with Sleeper for Aiiguata, alao cairlaa tbnHigh Pullman Buffet 8ke*ier New York to Mont gomery, with cMu<r(km for New Orleana. Oow necta at AtUnU tor Bl.mlngbam, Ala., Culnmbak and Orrenrllle, Miaa. 4:46 pm.?Dallr Ibe Orange and Intermediate ?tatlona and throogb train for Front Royal and 8tra?!-nrg. dally, except Sunday. 10:48 p.m ?WASHINGTON AND SOI I H W KJT EKN \E?TIBCI.FD LIMITED, compoacd of Pull man Veatlbuled Sl?op?ra and D'nlng Oara. rnna rl? C*h .rlotte and OoluinMa fn Augneta. Savannah, a<tne t .-iva. carrying Pullman Sleeper New Yctk to Tauipa. A 1m operatea Pullman cle> <ee New York to New Orleana via Atlanta ant Montgomery, New York to Aoherllle via Salisbury, Wnahlivrtoo to Mempbla Tin Blrmlngbam. and Washing on to Amr?:a via Columbia. LHiilag oar Crven?'.K>ro' to Montgonxry. TRAINS OX WASlIINGTON AND OHIO DIVI SION leave Waahlnston at 9:10 a.m., dxlly, 4:88 p.m., dally, except Sunday, and 8:31 p.m. Sunday only for Rwud Hill, and 4:12 p m.. dally. ?xi-?t Sunday, for Leeal urg. nnd 8:38 p.m., dally, for Herndo*. Returning, arrive Waablwton 6:28 a.a~ 8 00 p.m., dally, from Koond Hill. 8:14 am., dally, except Sunday, from Leeahnrg. and 8:88 a. m^, dally, except Sunday, from Herndon only. Tb ouch trains from tbe eoctfc arrive Waahlna> tea 7:18 a.m., 1:20 p.m. and 8 30 p.m. Manaa aaa Dlvlaton 8:40 a.m., dally, except Sunday, ant 8:4? a.m. dully from Orange. Tlcketa. Sleeping Car ri eerratlons and Infill am Hon fLrrlabed at offl.-ea, 611 and 1800 Peonaylev nla avcuue, and at Piw-nter Station, PennaylvA nla Railroad. XYaablngton. D. C W. H. GREEN, Gen. Man. W. A. TTRK. Oen. Paaa. Agt. L. S. Br.OWN. Oen. Agt. Paaa. Dept. )d BALTIMORE AND OHIO RAIIJtOAD. Schedule In efllHt Jane 8, 18M. Lear* Washington from atatloo, corner of New lereey avenue and C afreet. For Chicago and Northwaat, Veatltraled Limited rxpreaa tralna. 11:16 A.B.. 8 00 p.m. For Cincinnati St. Lou la nnd Indlanapolla. YegtV buled Limited Yto p.m.. exjriaa, 12 lo night. For Plttabnrg and Ueralut. iiym dally 11:18 s m. ard 8 36 p.m. For Islington and Staunton. 11:18 a.m. Foe Wiccheater and way atatlona. 8:80 e m. For Loray. Natural Bridge, Roanokr. Knorvin% Oiattanooga. Memphla and New Orliraaa, 12M p.m., tally, alecplng eara throngh. For 141 ray, 3:30 li.m. dally. For Baltlmoie. week daya, *4 16, 8-06. ? TO, *7:10. <7:30, (8K? 46 mlnutart, 8:10. ID 80 no^ot 46 minute*) a.m.. xl2:00. 12:?1, 12 16, x2 M <8:00 46 mlnu'ea), 8 25, *4:28. 4:81. *S OR. xft lK *5:30. 6:36. X6.2U, 8:80. *S.-<)0, S16, r?:00J xll.M and 11:86 p.m. Sundaya, *4 20. i7:S0 (*^<1 48 Bilnute*), 8.30, x0.80 a.m.. *12:00. (12:06, lflU *2:20 (3 00 4.1 minute*) 8:2ft. 4:31. xfi 06. 6:1ft 6:30. x(>:00. x9:00. lOKllfl. xll 8?1. 11:38 r tn. For Annar^illa. 7:10 and 8:30 a.m.. 1* 18 ant 4:2t> p.m. Sundaya, ? So a m., 4:81 p.m. Fur Fredeilck. all .13 Am., d:16. a4.3Q, a." .38 p.m. For Hacrtoirn. all :18 a.m. and aft:S0 p.m. For Bcrd and way potata bl):4<? p.m. For Onlthiral urg and way p>1nta. a?*0. a?-68 a.m.. al.,50, rl:00, *4:33. W 3ft. b*A)ft. bll 88 p m. For Washlncton Junction and way point*, ca oo. an rm a.m., cl-18 p.m. Expreaa tralna. rtofplng at crlncl|ial atatlona only, a4 So. aft 80 p m. ROYAL bLVE LINE F< >R NEW YORK AND nilLADELPHIA. For Philadelphia. New York. Bo?ton and thn raat, dslly. 4 2<\ 8-00 (10:00 a.m ex. Snn Dlnla| Oarl. (12:00 Dining Oarl. 8KW (6:06 Dining tiart, 6:00 (11:80 p.m. 61ecp!n( Oar, opes at 10:08 o'clocki. Buffet Parlor Oars on all day tralna. For Atlantic City, Cap* May. Sea I?1e C"tty ant Brlgnntlne Bea h, weak taya, 4:10 10:00 a.m, 12.-O0 noon: Sumlayii, 4:2o a.m. and 12,-oo noo?. a Except Sunday, b Dally, e Sunday only. < Ii|'i in tralna. Bncirage called for and checked from hotels ant naldencea l>y t'nton Tranafer r- wpany on order* left at ticket office* 4U aat 1361 Pa. bt*^ aal at depot. R B. CAMTBEI.K CHAS a SCTLU aal Gee. Manager. Om Paaa. Agt. CHESAPEAKE AND OHIO RATT.WAI. Schedule la effect May U. 18?4. Tralna leave dally from L'aka atatlon (B. aat PI, 8th and B sta. Trirourh the grandeet eeenery la America, with the bandsom>*t and meet complete ao.id train Bar ?Ice weet from Washington. 2:28 P.M. DAILY. ? ?Cincinnati and St. LooM 8pe<lal"?Solid Vee'lbuled. newly Equ1pt?ed. Ele<? trlc-llchted. Steam heeted Train. Pullman'a ftoeet ale, jilna rare Watblnrton to Olndnnetl, Indlanana 1U and St. Loula without change. Dining Oar from Waehlngtun. Arrlvca Cincinnati 6 00 a m i IndHnanolls. 11 : 4ft Am., and Chicago. 5 30 p m ! St. l/xit?. 8'ftft p.m. 11:10 P.M. DAH.Y.-Tbe famoea T- 9. T. lim ited " A aolld veetlbnled train, with dining ear and Pullman alcepcie for Cincinnati. Lexlngtna aat I^ulevllle, wlthoJt change. Pullman Sleeper to Virginia Hot Springs, w.-ek days, arriving 7 IB a m. Ot-eerratlon car from ninton. Arrive* Ol*. clnnatl. 6:60 p.m.: Lealnc'oa 8:00 p.m.; I>Hile Tllle, 8:40 p m : Ind1snapofla. il :1ft p.m.: Chicago, 7:30 a.m., and St Loots, 7:30 a.m.; connects la Fnlon depot for all polnta. 10:67 LM-. EX<?T 8CVDAT ?For Old POM Comfort and Norfolk Only rail line. 2:2ft P.M. DAILY.?Expreaa for Gordon* cl tie. Charlottesville. Wayne-itwro", Stannton atnl prlen pal Virginia points: dally, except Sunday, tor Rich mond. Pullman locations and tlcketa at company's of ?ess, 618 and 1421 Pranayleanls aretne h. w. rru-m. my26 Oeneral Pea*.-nger Agent. . LADIES' GOODS. MADAME OENESTE. ?10 A ST. SE 'ONE SQ. from F at. cersi ?Curtains and lace* done na equal to new: curtalne a *t>eclalty: goods fmndlet with care, called for and delivered. selft lm* Ladths- sealskin GARMENTS rxnvrn av6 altered Into Ut-wt stvle*. Furs of sll klnda re paired. TIIE MIOSES rrNMNGHAM. Se4 Sm 1808 8th at n w.. near N St. F1\B BLACK AND WHITE LACES DONE IT1S first-< las* Parisian style: white and eatln dreaaet, |?<ea and lace urtalos a sne Islty; prioee rea eonable. Call MME. VJBOTDf, saenww ts Mne. Yslmoot, old stand, <11 11th at. a.w. eel-lm* ANTON AND CAROI.TVP l FRCTI. *28 CTH ABB 12"0 1208 I t. n w. French dyeing and deanli* ef every dce<rtptlon: evening and party dressaa msde a specialty. Our patronage extends lots tbe most fashionable circles All STEAM CARPET CLEAN I NO. AMMoM.imi fa 11. AM GAIU'ET CLEANING Works ?Catyeu cleaned la the best munnsr. Osrpets msds asoth proof free of etiam. Mat treesee mads to orler. Office, 1720 PA are. llorks, 170t and 1710 E n w. Teleplioee 90s ?b2-tt M. VEWMYER, Ma UNDERTAKERS. W. R. S pea re, Undertaker & Embalmer, 840 F Street Northwest. Even thing strictly first-class aat en the moat leaeonabis terms. Telephone call, 840. )al tr APOUSTPt tctobojtr " rORNlSHINQ UNDERTAKER AND _ . . 1834 VEW YORK A I'M. WW.