Newspaper Page Text
AI TIMS GOWNS FOR ALL HOI RS OF THE DAY.
LATE PARIS MODES Lighter Court Mourning Demands Mauve and Violet. STYLISH MODELS IN BLACK SERGE Gold and Metallic Effects in New Embroideries. 1SHO SKIRTS ARE TIIE THING 8peelal Correspondence of Kvening Star. PARIS, September 1, 1900. The deaths of the Grand Duke of Saxe Coburg-Gotha and of King Humbert of Italy, plunging, as they have, most of the royal houses of Europe into mourning, will have a depressing effect on fall and winter fashion?. More somber colors are being called for. and mauve and violet are again much in demand. The Princess of wSles has just had com- j pit ted a very handsome gown, which is the criterion of smartness in that line for the season. The material used is black silk, while the trimming consists of lace and vel vet bows. The sleeves are made with upper and under sections, are tight-fittlngabove and trimmed with lace and insertion. The skirt Is made to appear of the five gored cut. but In reality has only three. One of the seams runs d< wn the center of the back, and a lace flounce, shaped shorter in the back than the front, trims the skirt. The blouse front opens over a plaited fullness of the silk, and a graduated cascade of black crape trims the bodice from shoulder to waist. The blouse is plaited at the waist to a close fltted lining. For black ties, feathers and flowers there has sprung up the greatest demand among the fashionables; likewise for all goods in black and white and the purple shades of half mourning. Tailored gowns, both blacks and grays, are being made in large num bers. while trimmings of lilac, heliotrope, j lavender and mauve are suddenly elevated Into popularity. Black serge gowns are regarded as espe cially smart for mourning wear of the more serviceable sort. For more dressy effects one model commended itself both on ac count of it-* daintiness and its chic. It was of white silk crepe de chine over black, veiled with white chiffon. The long, slightly trained skirt was trimmed with lace, above which came a little group of narrow tuc ks, and then a narrow band of insertion, the skirt being shaped above with a rounded yoke. The bodice of lace was made with a transparent yoke, encircled on the shoulders by folds of draped crepe de chine fashioned into a chou at one side, under which long sashl'ke ends of the crepe de chine fell like doles almost to the hem of the skirt. This sash was embroidered and trimmed at inter vals with lace, which gave it a very rich appearance. Small Hut* for Fnll. The hats for fall wear are scarcely pic turesque. T o many of them are on the ?!yle of the Ladysmith hat. a shape suited to few fa ?es. There are a vast number of hats of plain f* It. simply ornamented, with band* or with a wing or a quill as the sole trimming. Such hats are serviceable for rough weather or walking, but are seldom seen < n fashionable women after the hour of noon, and in the city are scarcely worn at all Madame ? r mad* moiselle at her chateau delight* in hats of this sort. T.n< y are just the thing for murning ramb:<-s atmiit the grounds or for a spin over the beautiful roads in her newest automobile. 1 am told that one of the fads of the win- I ter will l>e th" lavishness of gold embroi deries and metallic < ffc-cts in ribbons in em broideries. For some time we have been treated to anticipatory hints to this effect, but now it is auth ritatively stated. The use of gold threads in outlining or embroi dering patterns on chiffon and m< usseline s ? m- to be one of the chief decorative ef fects for the winter evening gowns. The metallic threads are sometimes shaded to pr> !; ? e really fine eff Dull coppers and silver are used with advantage, too. All this richness has a semi-oriental sug g st von harmonizing well with the ten d. i.ey to use orient.'!'; fabrics and oriental eff' cts. Some of th new silks are reul im p irtations ef Arabian, Hindoo and Egyp t!on patterns. Thes ? have been imitated by the French looms s successfully that tl . y can scarcely be distinguish* d from the antique oriental hand loom work. TrimmiiiK I'lllirlr*. Panic, changeable silks, leather-treated fabri s. crepe de chine, crepe crystaie and brocaded metallic efTects are to be much u.-e'i in fashioning the richer garments of the coming season. They will, in fact, oc cupy positions par excellence of popularity, Satin delaine and fabric* of that sort are likely to have a good deal of vogue for autumn wear, and they are very pretty trin.m. 1 w:*h lace of the deep ecru shade. Velvet is being used a great deal as a trimming or. cloth gowns, the material being applied In narrow bands, in shade.4 from the color of the cloth to one either much darker or much lighter. When the (own is quite plain, the applications of bands border it: when it has an overskirt or flounce, the trimming borders the over skirt or flounce. The bolero is still to be used, a new adaptation being a waistcoat with long pointed front pieces, which is to be worn With tailor-made gowns. With tailor-made For HURRY"UP COOKING Is there anything to equal LIEBIG COMPANY'S EXTRACT OP BEEF. CHORUS OF HOUSEWIVES ANSWERS "|^Q gnwns the colored, fancy gilet is about the only touch of color possible, and on it dressmakers look for many of th? lr finest effects this year. I,ace fronts are not like ly to be so much used with the tailored gowns. Revers and collars are lower in the front, but cut higher in the back. Sepnrntc- KIoiihch. Even the separate blouses are being made with the bolero effects, as was illustra'ed by one which I noticed yesterday in the Rue de la Paix. It was of silk, the bolero bordered with a narrow gold braid, which was also outlined on the rounded revers. The underbodice was of plaited silk, the This jren-.s'.r ly cap.lvsUnir outturn hat. called "the Lady Hand iij.h." is of black velvet, the wide lirini faced with folds of white chiffon and dressed elaborately with peaeock-eoiored quills and satin rilibon. sleeves being plain except for a group of tucking just below the shoulder. A row of round buttons closed the front of the blouse and were sprinkled in groups of two on revers and collar. The latter was a plaited affair, very high, as are many of the new collars, arid was supplied with Fide turned over pieces, trimmed with braid and buttons. There is no question but laces will be much worn both during the fall and the winter. Those who have laid in a giod supply of these beautiful trimmings from the bargain sales should therefore be hap- j py. Luxeuil. Irish and Oluny are expected ' to hold leading places, but nothing which is pretty will be at all amiss. The shops, i pretty actress. Voile, lace and chiffon are the fabrics used in its making- The wide Algerian sleeves, with wide, turned-over cuff, like that upon a kimono, fall back over a deep puffed undersleeve of white chiffon gathered upon a lace band. The blouse effect given by the upper part of the gown is cleverly effected by the Insertion from the shoulders to the waist of a point ed application of lace. When the sash is tied around the gown at the waist line the lace falls over the girdle in fyll folds that give it the appearance of being a separate blouse and skirt. In the back the watteau plait from shoulder to skirt suggests the remark that a good deal of use will be made this winter of watteau dress effects. Short Jiticketn Again. Jackets will be short, with the mere sug gestion of a basque for antumn use. The long coats have not yet seen the end of their career. A softening touch is given to some of the light cloth three-quarter coats by the use of a chou and sash ends of chif fon applied at one or both sides of the coat. In cases where the trimming is used on both sides of the jacket a chiffon band gracefully outlines the waist in the back, where it is sometimes clasped by a buckle of cut steel or pearl. CATHERINE TALBOT. . ?-? ? HOUSEHOLD HINTS The cucumber juice or cream is one of nature's own cosmetics, cooling, healirg and softening. Unlike some other lotions, it does not cover up defects, but restores the skin to healthy action. It has been scien tifically demonstrated that the cucumber is considerably cooler than the surrounding atmosphere, so that "cool as a cucumber" Is a most apropos comparison. Its efficacy in cases of sunburn and affections of the skin is doubtless due to this cool quality. In making this balm at home?and it can he made at a tenth of its cost at the drug gist's?procure the best almond oil for its foundation. For two large, almost ripe cucumbers use four ounces of almond oil and half an ounce each, of spermaceti and white wax. Put these ingredients into a cup and set in a basin of boiling water. As soon as the wax and sp rr.iaceti blend with ?the almond oil to form a uniform mass place the cup on the back of the range. Peel the cucumbers, which should not be too yel low, but just on the verge of turning. Chop them tine, squeeze out the juice with a towel and mix with the other ingredients. To add to its dainty appearance color with a few drops of spinach juice to just a pale sea. green. Pour the cream while still warm into emptied egK shells or little porcelain jars of fine material and set in a pan of cold water to harden. Wash the skin thor oughly a;t nigtst before applying the cream. Dry off ail the moisture with a soft towel and then rub the cream gently into the skin. In the morning wash off with warm water, follow.ng with a dash of cold water to make the tissues firm. While the small pickle cucumbers are These are inu superb examples of tbe new Persian lamb acuta recently Imported. As will ba no till, they extend not more than two Inches below the hips, have high flaring collar* and revers, fit rnugly and thow a very slight fulluess over the armhole. Muffs are of medium slxe and elabo rately dtvorated. too, are showing woven luce collars anil Jackets, as well as all-over pieces, so that it looks as though, with a little alteration, last season's lace gowns may be creditably made to do service for another year. Skirt Shape* IncliuiiKed. There seems to be little prospect of a radical change in the shape of skirts until spring. It is authoritatively stated that the round skirt, just touching the ground, will be introduced. The skirt of 183U style seems to be favored by Americans. It is quite long and shaped to the figure, with a plait ing or scarcely noticeable drapery over the hips and the suggestion of a box plait in the back. It has the seam down the front and on most figures looks very well. For Indoor wear nothing could be more charming than the tea gown Just completed by one of tbe great dressmakers for a very still at their best try this method of put ting thera up for winter, and you will never try any other. Crtep delicate, mellow, these relishes are the very anthithesis of the giant "cowcumber plckies" beloved of 8airy Gamp or the corner grocer, where size and acidity carry the day. TV) 200 medium-sized cucumbers?none over two and a half inches in length?allow one coffee cup of salt. Wash the cucumbers thoroughly and pack in a stone Jar with salt between the layers. Have ready a teakettle of boil-ing water and cover the pickles. Let them stand twenty four hours, pour ofT the water and wtpe the plckies dry. Put in a porcelain kettle a scant gallon of good cider vinegar, a full ooffee cup of sugar, two small red peppers chopped fine but omitting all the seeds ex cepting two or three; a teaspoonful of alum and tJhree table spoonfuls of whtte mustard seed. Bring to a good scald and pour over tbe pickles. Pack in glass cans or ecu-then jars, lay grape ot horseradteh leave* over the top and close. The ?ugar gives the pickles a mellow taste and preserves the vinegar, hut It la not enough to make them sweet. The majority of people cook mushrooms too much, forgetting that to be In perfec tion they should be cooked simply and served quickly. They should not be cooked over six minutes at the outside, and then served at "white heat." It is for this rea son that the little silver rkmequlns or the picturesque little French dishes of pale red earthenware are so popular for cook ing and serving mushrooms in. Most delicious in flavor of all the mush room family are those that grow wild In the meadows this time of the year. For broiling the large flaps are necessary, but for preparing "en cocotte" or stewing, they are better gathered before; the cap has ex panded to its full size. A simple and delicious way to cook them In the chafing dish is this: Peel and take half the stem off a pound of fresh mush rooms; put into the pan two tablespoonfuls of fresh butter. As soon as melted, add mushrooms, cover the dish and allow them to simmer five minutes. Add one teaspoon ful of salt and cook three minutes longer. Again, add two tablespoonfuls of thick cream, a quarter of a teaspoonful of pap rika and, if preferred, a tablespoonful of cherry or madeira. Toast six small thin slices of bread and pour the mushrooms over them. Lemon juice and a speck of minced parsley may be used in place of the wine. When fresh mushrooms are not obtain able, 5 cents' worth of dried ones pur chased at any of the Italian stores will make a number of delicious sauces. They are best bought in small quantities, as they become infested with worms on exposure to air. "It is a mistaken idea," declares a mem ber of the New York Mycological Society, "that the effect of the poison varieties of the mushroom family is almost immedi ately felt On the contrary, those produc ing nausea only take effect in an hour or so, while the njost deadly species take from eight to twelve hours, and sometimes twen ty hours to produce a perceptible effect. The best way to determine the character of the mushroom is to learn the danger marks which distinguish the most deadly speci mens. The Amanitas has instead of the purple o- pinkish gills, peculiar to the edi ble kind, pure while gills, while the base of the stalk Is swollen into a bulbous state." An iced peach charlotte which is both delicious and decorative is made in this wise. Peel a half dozen large ripe peaches, cut in halves, remove the stones and chop in small pieces. Sprinkle with a few drops of vanlla and a wine glass of rum. Cut thin slices of sponge cake into strips or use lady fingers, lining a charlotte mold with them, and allowing them to overlap. Put the mold in a pan, and surround with chipped ice. As soon as chilled, put a layer of peaches at the bottom of the mold, whip a little unset Jelly (gelatine) with a wineglass of Maraschino?the Eagle liquor preferred?and pour sufficient into the mold to cover the peaches. Let It stand sur rounded by ice until the jelly is set, then add more peaches and jelly, until the mold is full, in each case allowing the jelly to set before another layer is added. Cover the mold and keen on the ice for an hour. Turn the charlotte out of the mold onto a flat dish, garnish the base with quarters of peach and leaves of angelica, pour a lit tle Maraschino over all and serve. Another variation in peach pies is made by combining a little apple marmalade with the peaches. Spread the bottom of the unbaked crust of the pie with a thin layer of the marmalade. Slice ripe peaches over it, dredging thickly .with granulated sugar. Bake three-quarters of an hour, dredge again with sugar and set back in the oven to melt. Then pour over it a quarter cupful melted apple or ppach Jelly and serve with a whipped cream or me ringue piled over it. It frequently happens in preserving that the syrup begins to rise so rapidly that there is no time to lift the heavy kettle aside. In this emergency a tablespoonful J of cold water thrown over the syrup will cause it to subside. An open peach pie served with wn.pped cream may be a novelty to many house keepers. It is certainly one of the most de lightful of all pies. Line a deep plate with i tender crust and bake as for lemon pies. Then fill with fresh or even canned peaches, sweetened to taste, and cover thickly with sweetened whipped cream. Maraschino cordial, which has for its basis the Marasco or wild cherry. Is about the only flavor that o^ibines perfectly with peach. Angelica cut into thin strips and these into triangular pieces without waste makes a good imitation of leaves. Kanhloii Frill*. Many wraps are made in guipure over a color. Some fit the shoulders and reach to the elbow, where the edges turn up all round, showing a contrasting colored lin ing, the velvet edges bordered with a dou ble ruching of silk muslin, a high collar completing the effect. Then some of the velvet mantels are longer In the back than In the front and are bordered with shaped flounces strapped with cloth, the turn-down collar being edged with velvet, which shows the newest form of bolero. It Is furnished with a hood. Some of the cloth coats are stitched all over and display straps and buttons down the front. In Paris the accordion plaited skirts hold sway for young people, and soft woolen materials of all sorts are employed, such as veiling, cashmere and crape fabrics. The bodices are made with deep belts and plaited yokes and epaulets, a lace beading outlining the yokes. Even children are wearing boleros and fancy jackets, very often in contrast to the dress. Light col ored silks for evening wear for young girls are often trimmed with black mousseline. The newest lingerie from Paris gives stout iigures the aspect of slender hips, the petticoat clinging from the waist to below the knees. The princess gowns specially need skirts of this nature, and, indeed, these new sets of lingerie In one piece are invaluable for present fashions. Chemises, drawers and petticoats combined have been brought out in several designs, and morn ing gowns in plain silks, in cashmere pat terned panne, are nearly all trimmed with Inserted bands of lace. Swan's down is coming in again as a trimming for morn ing gowns made in soft wool. Nothing is prettier than the silk slips hand worked and of English make, the stitching of the finest, the elaborate pat terns carried out by means of tuckings and lace Insertions. The popularity of lace does not In the least wane, though its spell Is already so long. The sequin Is still surviving, though this season mainly in embroidery on !ace and always of the smaller sort, veering al most to the size of the bead.. Finely se qulned lace frocks will reappear this win ter and possibly in those pale colors we have already admired, as well as in white and black. Sashes will certainly continue' to form a feature over the simple gathered backs of the incoming skirt. A simple skirt with the material Jyin* crosswise over the hips and settlngwitoiillght gath ers Into the band will proPfcbl>':$?- the form of skirt adopted, and. In', fac^that is al ready being adopted by tho?e% the van. It is very graceful and really be worn by almost any figure. The makes a charming finish for a slight fifpnre. Paquin gives such sweet decorative ends to his sashes, and often these are spoon shaped, In which guise they have a quaint lappet sort of look. Embroideries will be just as general on all kinds of ertsrtumds, from the veriest web of an evening gown to the novelties of the tailor and the furrier. Autumn .Novelties.' From Harper's Baisar. } (if Wide, folded belts of satin ori panne vel vet are still fashionable, ^nd ate on many of the gowns now being designed for the autumn. They are not erfsy to-;make, and require to be carefully fitted. The only time when they are possible for a short walsted person is when they are worn un der a bolero Jacket. A smart gown In light blue cloth that has Just been made up (for tunately for a long-waisted, slender wo man) has one of these belts In black satin that Is nearly a quarter of a yard wide. Small watch charms or bracelet charms are now quite a fad with smartly gowned women, quite a cluster of them being seen on bracelets or watch chains. Some of th^se charms are of stones, like topazes and. amethysts, and there are many set In heart shape or points, with a thread of gold around them, or with what looks like a shank of closely set brilliants. To keep meat fresh In hot weather cover It over with bran and hang it In a current of air. Moses' annual September Bale.?Advt. CROFTER PLAID AND A DRESS OP PERSIAN BLUE CLOTH. FOR SCHOOL GIRLS Fashions for Every Day and Sunday Best Costumes, SCOTCH CROFTER CLOTHS IN PAYOR The Fichu Does Not Mean a Re vival of the Shawl. THE OCTOBER PLAIDS Spccial Correspondence of The Evening Stnr. NEW YORK, September 13, 1900. It is a case of the old love forgotten for th<- sake of the newest charmer, who comes In the guise of most interesting autumn fabrics and fashions. Bewitchingly pretty shirt waists of lawn, bolts of the finest organdie and bargains gaiore in white pique petticoats, go a begging at counters where lately their admirers swarmed in ilnes three deep. Everybody is struggling to be waited on in aisles where woolen goods and new felt shapes and October Ideas in gloves prevail, and the mothers of daughters predominate in the rush of early shoppers. The demands of the school girl must be first looked to, and kindergarten six and sweet sixteen are such modish creatures these days, so thoroughly au courrant with the fashion that the mothers are obliged to look alive, or like as not the short-skirted autocrats will turn the purchases back on the parental hands. Most of the discreet mammas Invite their small daughters out on these shopping excursions and permit the precocious feminine eye and taste to aevelop all its native born talent for co.'or and form. Sweet Sixteen Liken Plaidn. This autumn the school girls, to use their own expression, are "rather gone on" plaids, and they like the richly tinted Scotch cloths in no more than three colors at most. The girls whose skirts reach their shoe tops have adopted skirts of plaid wool with waists of solid color, and in juvenile circles there is a demand for boleros and Eton waists. What the smart Junior class students arc wearing is pretty clearly demonstrated In the group'of slim young ladies carrying shining faces to the opening exercises. The one to the left wears a skirt of Crofter's cloth, rmoke gray in tone, striped in lines of brown, but a brown of so warm a tone that it is nearly red, and is supposed to re eemhle the dry.bracken or fern of a Scotch moor. The waist is gray, with cuffs and collar and belt of brown, edged with bands of gray stitched in brown. The front of the waist is a vest of gray corded silk, repeatedly stitched in brown, and the hat is a felt of dry bracken color, adorned with a big gilt buckle, a .crown baud of brown velvet and two artificial long plumes made of short, curly gray ibis feathers fixed to spines, like those of ostrich plumes. This girl wears gray gaiters over her black enamel leather walking shoes, a fashion that seems confined Just now to school girls, but none the less does it prom ise to become a widespread habit among their elders during this autumn and next winter. The companion to this pretty student is a young iady in French broadcloth of rich Persian blue, a color that has had a great popularity and promises to be none the less worn in the new season. Here the severely plain skirt is relieved by tail ored bands of gray blue cloth, stitched with =W silk of the shade that matches the skirt. The upper half of this little suit is an ex tremely short-waisted bolero slipped upon a skirt of grayish blue silk, prettily stitch ed to accord with the treatment of the skirt. Atop of it all goes a hat of stitched blue cloth, crowned with masses of vel vet dahlias, ranging in color from the pal est ash-gray to the deepest purplish-blue. Artfully made velvet dahlias, chrysanthe mums and rusty red, deep violet and gray green roses are, in Paris, sprouting in lib eral wreaths ar*d bouquets on every new hat, and the school girls are merely a few weeks ahead of their elders in wearing them, that is all. A Pretty and I'aefnl Model. A pretty and typical figure is that of the miss in plaids and a bolero, who, with her books and her busy air, her short skirt and braided hair, plainly indicates that get ting an education is just now her one ob ject in life. Her suit is an admirable text in green from which to preach a forcible sermon on the virtues and importance of this color for winter gowns. Green with a bright note of red in it is, we hear, echoed from the dressmaking establishments, the very nicest idea for a very modern winter suit. Clear dark green crossed on gray green bands upon a gray groundwork is the combination in this girl's suit. Her flannel skirt matches the gray-green stripes of her skirt, her coat accords in tone with the broad dark green bands, and upon her shoulders a collar of green silk turns back, edged with a frill of clear crimson silk and prettily embroidered in knots and wheels of the same bright color. The French Length Skirt. Smaller girls, as is befitting, lean to more independent and strictly juvenile ideas in ditss than their longer-skirted sisters, but plaid wools and full skirts have with them almost as far-reaching an influence. Thero is a sensible tendency to cut little girl's skirts to the French length for juveniles: that is, just below the knee, and in cold Green and Red Cloth. weather to protect the shapely legs with extra heavy hose. The very young women in the accompanying sketch give an excel lent impression of the simplicity that is sure to prevail in the wan!robes of six and nine-year-olds. The child in the blue and red plaid suit boasts only a few dark red velvet bands and a frill of blue silk on her collar by way of decoration, and her com TWO RBV MODELS FOR SCHOOL WEAK. panlon. In green, shows stitchings In black on her little skirt that Is picked out In wee rings of the same, while a vest and frill of cherry red si'ik ornaments her bodice. Very shaggy and satin-finished cloths promise to struggle for the supremacy later on. The needles are flying Just now about mid-season suits 6f handsome Eng lish etamlne woven In heavier quality than we have ever seen before. This particular cloth is set ofT to perfection by narrow bands of stitched smooth-faced goods and stitched folds of silk, of which women have not yet tired. I?ark blue and green and bronze" brown etamines. on which hand s< me black silk passamenterie Is appllqued in panels is the most modish idea the autumn has yet brought forth for calling and house gowns, and. prophetic forecast itigs of styles to the contrary, we evidently will continue to .wear skirts cut for nc fullness about the hips and belt, but an ex travagant spread of goods about the feet. The Fichu Effect*. Over and over again in the models that dressmakers are receiving from the other side do we see the flchu effect repeated. This has led not a few prescient souls into false conclusions and assertions anent the revival of shawl wearing. Indeed, the fu ture holds no such trial in store for us, but the gowns are exceedingly pretty with their various shoulder draperies that cross the back with deftly placed folds and flow over the,shoulders, to cast a discreet and necessary cap upon the sleeves, while the ends of the flchu are capable of an infinite number of charming and valuable arrange ments in front. Plainly, this shawl-like drapery is the resuscitation of a contem porary of the under sleeve, which, by the way, like the star spangled banner, will long and triumphantly continue to -vave ita luxuriant folds about the tapering fore arms of well-dressed womenkind. Among those etamine gowns referred tp this feature is most conspicuously In evi dence. The cloth sleeve opens out at the elbow in a ealla Illy shape, or fastens firm ly with a turn-back cuff, and from this point down to the wrist extends a lawn un dersleeve of white swiss, crimped with countless overlapping frills of cream Val enciennes lace. Another popular arrange ment, with handsome reception gowns of dark cloth are sleeves made wholly o( cream white silk muslin, closely accordion p'eated to fit the arm. The lining for these Is one thin skin of chiffon, fitting the arm snugly, and this covering extends from shoulder to wrist. Upon this fragile and lovely dressing goes the large dress sleeve of cloth that is not closed on the Inside seam, save with a few tiny Jeweled links, so that at every motion of the arm the feathery lining shows to great advantage. MARY DEAN. The Latest In Blouse*. In spite of rumors of the early part of the season, blouses of every kind are more popular than ever. During the earlier part of the day they are of the simplest char? acter, but for afternoon or evening wear it is just the contrary, as the materials em? I A bewitching little house dress of heavy straw berry red ijrass cloth, trimmed with white I > raid ami white linen. It U a must satisfactory school frock, and can be worn until December. ployed in their construction are very ex pensive, and, if ordered to be made in the usual way, cost a great deal of money on account of the high prices that have to bd paid by the dressmakers for skilled ma chinists and embroideresses. The demand for fine needlework and ar tistic silk embroidery for decorating the fronts and collars of blouse bodices Is un precedented. Real lace forms the upper half of some of the most expensive blouses, and the yokes are worn next to the skin, namely, without a foundation of any kind. The effect is very beautiful and more suit able than leaving the throat and shoulders exposed. Belo-y the fullness of the figure the silk or crepe de chine is gathered up into narrow tucks, and some of them are so fine that it makes one wonder how hands and eyesight could be so accurate as to turn out such stitching and so regularly gauge the space between each tiny fold. Satin merv and china silks can now be purchased already plaited and tucked, of" the material might be bought in the usual way and the plaiting or the embroidery could be done for a small outlay at almost any sewing machine shop. By this means a stylish-looking blouse can be acquired by any one who has the time to spare and the inclination to make it herself, as the construction of the blouse Is a very simple matter. The Elaborate Sleeve. The Louis XV sleeves are not popular with the average person. They leap to the eye, as the saying goes, too quickly, and consequently become an aggressive item. Furthermore, they tend to cut up the en tire figure in the strangest and most unac countable way. None but the tall and slim are in any sort justified in considering them. Nor Is the sleeve pagode conducting itself by any means as well as one could wish. Familiarity, strangely enough, has not in this case bred perfection. There is an io finity of variations, and yet nine out of ten lack the requisite touch of excellence. Some women are essaying quite a long and bell-shaj>ed sleeve that comes quite to the wrist and only reveals by some chance movement the existence of a band sleeve let beneath?a daring departure enough. There is great need for new designs, as the sleeve is the making or marring of a gown. The Popular Rolero. Boleros In all materials will be the height of fashion throughout the winter. The new* est fasten in front with long scarfs tied In loose bows. GOLD MEDAL, PARIS, 1900 The Judges at the Paris Exposition have awarded a COLD MEDAL to Walter Baker & Co. ^ the largest manufacturers of cocoa and chocolate in the world. This is the third award from a Paris Exposition. BAKER'S COCOAS AND CHOCOLATES are always uniform in qual ity, absolutely pure, deli cious, and nutritious. The genuine goods bear our trade-mark on every pack age, and are made only by Waiter Baker & Co. L*, DORCHESTER MASS., TRADE-MARK ESTABLISHED .780.