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Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, September 15, 1900, Image 17

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AI TIMS GOWNS FOR ALL HOI RS OF THE DAY.
LATE PARIS MODES
Lighter Court Mourning Demands
Mauve and Violet.
STYLISH MODELS IN BLACK SERGE
Gold and Metallic Effects in New
Embroideries.
1SHO SKIRTS ARE TIIE THING
8peelal Correspondence of Kvening Star.
PARIS, September 1, 1900.
The deaths of the Grand Duke of Saxe
Coburg-Gotha and of King Humbert of
Italy, plunging, as they have, most of the
royal houses of Europe into mourning, will
have a depressing effect on fall and winter
fashion?. More somber colors are being
called for. and mauve and violet are again
much in demand.
The Princess of wSles has just had com- j
pit ted a very handsome gown, which is the
criterion of smartness in that line for the
season. The material used is black silk,
while the trimming consists of lace and vel
vet bows. The sleeves are made with upper
and under sections, are tight-fittlngabove and
trimmed with lace and insertion. The skirt
Is made to appear of the five gored cut. but
In reality has only three. One of the seams
runs d< wn the center of the back, and a
lace flounce, shaped shorter in the back
than the front, trims the skirt. The blouse
front opens over a plaited fullness of the
silk, and a graduated cascade of black crape
trims the bodice from shoulder to waist.
The blouse is plaited at the waist to a close
fltted lining.
For black ties, feathers and flowers there
has sprung up the greatest demand among
the fashionables; likewise for all goods in
black and white and the purple shades of
half mourning. Tailored gowns, both blacks
and grays, are being made in large num
bers. while trimmings of lilac, heliotrope, j
lavender and mauve are suddenly elevated
Into popularity.
Black serge gowns are regarded as espe
cially smart for mourning wear of the more
serviceable sort. For more dressy effects
one model commended itself both on ac
count of it-* daintiness and its chic. It was
of white silk crepe de chine over black,
veiled with white chiffon. The long, slightly
trained skirt was trimmed with lace, above
which came a little group of narrow tuc ks,
and then a narrow band of insertion, the
skirt being shaped above with a rounded
yoke. The bodice of lace was made with a
transparent yoke, encircled on the shoulders
by folds of draped crepe de chine fashioned
into a chou at one side, under which long
sashl'ke ends of the crepe de chine fell like
doles almost to the hem of the skirt. This
sash was embroidered and trimmed at inter
vals with lace, which gave it a very rich
appearance.
Small Hut* for Fnll.
The hats for fall wear are scarcely pic
turesque. T o many of them are on the
?!yle of the Ladysmith hat. a shape suited
to few fa ?es. There are a vast number of
hats of plain f* It. simply ornamented, with
band* or with a wing or a quill as the sole
trimming. Such hats are serviceable for
rough weather or walking, but are seldom
seen < n fashionable women after the hour
of noon, and in the city are scarcely worn
at all Madame ? r mad* moiselle at her
chateau delight* in hats of this sort. T.n< y
are just the thing for murning ramb:<-s
atmiit the grounds or for a spin over the
beautiful roads in her newest automobile.
1 am told that one of the fads of the win- I
ter will l>e th" lavishness of gold embroi
deries and metallic < ffc-cts in ribbons in em
broideries. For some time we have been
treated to anticipatory hints to this effect,
but now it is auth ritatively stated. The
use of gold threads in outlining or embroi
dering patterns on chiffon and m< usseline
s ? m- to be one of the chief decorative ef
fects for the winter evening gowns. The
metallic threads are sometimes shaded to
pr> !; ? e really fine eff Dull coppers
and silver are used with advantage, too.
All this richness has a semi-oriental sug
g st von harmonizing well with the ten
d. i.ey to use orient.'!'; fabrics and oriental
eff' cts. Some of th new silks are reul im
p irtations ef Arabian, Hindoo and Egyp
t!on patterns. Thes ? have been imitated
by the French looms s successfully that
tl . y can scarcely be distinguish* d from the
antique oriental hand loom work.
TrimmiiiK I'lllirlr*.
Panic, changeable silks, leather-treated
fabri s. crepe de chine, crepe crystaie and
brocaded metallic efTects are to be much
u.-e'i in fashioning the richer garments of
the coming season. They will, in fact, oc
cupy positions par excellence of popularity,
Satin delaine and fabric* of that sort are
likely to have a good deal of vogue for
autumn wear, and they are very pretty
trin.m. 1 w:*h lace of the deep ecru shade.
Velvet is being used a great deal as a
trimming or. cloth gowns, the material
being applied In narrow bands, in shade.4
from the color of the cloth to one either
much darker or much lighter. When the
(own is quite plain, the applications of
bands border it: when it has an overskirt
or flounce, the trimming borders the over
skirt or flounce.
The bolero is still to be used, a new
adaptation being a waistcoat with long
pointed front pieces, which is to be worn
With tailor-made gowns. With tailor-made
For HURRY"UP COOKING
Is there anything to equal
LIEBIG
COMPANY'S EXTRACT
OP BEEF.
CHORUS OF HOUSEWIVES
ANSWERS "|^Q
gnwns the colored, fancy gilet is about the
only touch of color possible, and on it
dressmakers look for many of th? lr finest
effects this year. I,ace fronts are not like
ly to be so much used with the tailored
gowns. Revers and collars are lower in
the front, but cut higher in the back.
Sepnrntc- KIoiihch.
Even the separate blouses are being made
with the bolero effects, as was illustra'ed
by one which I noticed yesterday in the
Rue de la Paix. It was of silk, the bolero
bordered with a narrow gold braid, which
was also outlined on the rounded revers.
The underbodice was of plaited silk, the
This jren-.s'.r ly cap.lvsUnir outturn hat. called
"the Lady Hand iij.h." is of black velvet, the
wide lirini faced with folds of white chiffon and
dressed elaborately with peaeock-eoiored quills
and satin rilibon.
sleeves being plain except for a group of
tucking just below the shoulder. A row of
round buttons closed the front of the
blouse and were sprinkled in groups of two
on revers and collar. The latter was a
plaited affair, very high, as are many of
the new collars, arid was supplied with Fide
turned over pieces, trimmed with braid and
buttons.
There is no question but laces will be
much worn both during the fall and the
winter. Those who have laid in a giod
supply of these beautiful trimmings from
the bargain sales should therefore be hap- j
py. Luxeuil. Irish and Oluny are expected '
to hold leading places, but nothing which
is pretty will be at all amiss. The shops, i
pretty actress. Voile, lace and chiffon are
the fabrics used in its making- The wide
Algerian sleeves, with wide, turned-over
cuff, like that upon a kimono, fall back
over a deep puffed undersleeve of white
chiffon gathered upon a lace band. The
blouse effect given by the upper part of the
gown is cleverly effected by the Insertion
from the shoulders to the waist of a point
ed application of lace. When the sash is
tied around the gown at the waist line the
lace falls over the girdle in fyll folds that
give it the appearance of being a separate
blouse and skirt. In the back the watteau
plait from shoulder to skirt suggests the
remark that a good deal of use will be
made this winter of watteau dress effects.
Short Jiticketn Again.
Jackets will be short, with the mere sug
gestion of a basque for antumn use. The
long coats have not yet seen the end of
their career. A softening touch is given to
some of the light cloth three-quarter coats
by the use of a chou and sash ends of chif
fon applied at one or both sides of the
coat. In cases where the trimming is used
on both sides of the jacket a chiffon band
gracefully outlines the waist in the back,
where it is sometimes clasped by a buckle
of cut steel or pearl.
CATHERINE TALBOT.
. ?-? ?
HOUSEHOLD HINTS
The cucumber juice or cream is one of
nature's own cosmetics, cooling, healirg and
softening. Unlike some other lotions, it
does not cover up defects, but restores the
skin to healthy action. It has been scien
tifically demonstrated that the cucumber is
considerably cooler than the surrounding
atmosphere, so that "cool as a cucumber"
Is a most apropos comparison. Its efficacy
in cases of sunburn and affections of the
skin is doubtless due to this cool quality.
In making this balm at home?and it can
he made at a tenth of its cost at the drug
gist's?procure the best almond oil for its
foundation. For two large, almost ripe
cucumbers use four ounces of almond oil
and half an ounce each, of spermaceti and
white wax. Put these ingredients into a
cup and set in a basin of boiling water. As
soon as the wax and sp rr.iaceti blend with
?the almond oil to form a uniform mass place
the cup on the back of the range. Peel the
cucumbers, which should not be too yel
low, but just on the verge of turning. Chop
them tine, squeeze out the juice with a
towel and mix with the other ingredients.
To add to its dainty appearance color with
a few drops of spinach juice to just a pale
sea. green. Pour the cream while still warm
into emptied egK shells or little porcelain
jars of fine material and set in a pan of
cold water to harden. Wash the skin thor
oughly a;t nigtst before applying the cream.
Dry off ail the moisture with a soft towel
and then rub the cream gently into the
skin. In the morning wash off with warm
water, follow.ng with a dash of cold water
to make the tissues firm.
While the small pickle cucumbers are
These are inu superb examples of tbe new Persian lamb acuta recently Imported. As will ba
no till, they extend not more than two Inches below the hips, have high flaring collar* and revers,
fit rnugly and thow a very slight fulluess over the armhole. Muffs are of medium slxe and elabo
rately dtvorated.
too, are showing woven luce collars anil
Jackets, as well as all-over pieces, so that
it looks as though, with a little alteration,
last season's lace gowns may be creditably
made to do service for another year.
Skirt Shape* IncliuiiKed.
There seems to be little prospect of a
radical change in the shape of skirts until
spring. It is authoritatively stated that the
round skirt, just touching the ground, will
be introduced. The skirt of 183U style seems
to be favored by Americans. It is quite
long and shaped to the figure, with a plait
ing or scarcely noticeable drapery over the
hips and the suggestion of a box plait in
the back. It has the seam down the front
and on most figures looks very well.
For Indoor wear nothing could be more
charming than the tea gown Just completed
by one of tbe great dressmakers for a very
still at their best try this method of put
ting thera up for winter, and you will never
try any other. Crtep delicate, mellow, these
relishes are the very anthithesis of the
giant "cowcumber plckies" beloved of 8airy
Gamp or the corner grocer, where size and
acidity carry the day. TV) 200 medium-sized
cucumbers?none over two and a half inches
in length?allow one coffee cup of salt.
Wash the cucumbers thoroughly and pack
in a stone Jar with salt between the layers.
Have ready a teakettle of boil-ing water and
cover the pickles. Let them stand twenty
four hours, pour ofT the water and wtpe
the plckies dry. Put in a porcelain kettle a
scant gallon of good cider vinegar, a full
ooffee cup of sugar, two small red peppers
chopped fine but omitting all the seeds ex
cepting two or three; a teaspoonful of alum
and tJhree table spoonfuls of whtte mustard
seed. Bring to a good scald and pour over
tbe pickles. Pack in glass cans or ecu-then
jars, lay grape ot horseradteh leave* over
the top and close. The ?ugar gives the
pickles a mellow taste and preserves the
vinegar, hut It la not enough to make them
sweet.
The majority of people cook mushrooms
too much, forgetting that to be In perfec
tion they should be cooked simply and
served quickly. They should not be cooked
over six minutes at the outside, and then
served at "white heat." It is for this rea
son that the little silver rkmequlns or the
picturesque little French dishes of pale
red earthenware are so popular for cook
ing and serving mushrooms in.
Most delicious in flavor of all the mush
room family are those that grow wild In
the meadows this time of the year. For
broiling the large flaps are necessary, but
for preparing "en cocotte" or stewing, they
are better gathered before; the cap has ex
panded to its full size.
A simple and delicious way to cook them
In the chafing dish is this: Peel and take
half the stem off a pound of fresh mush
rooms; put into the pan two tablespoonfuls
of fresh butter. As soon as melted, add
mushrooms, cover the dish and allow them
to simmer five minutes. Add one teaspoon
ful of salt and cook three minutes longer.
Again, add two tablespoonfuls of thick
cream, a quarter of a teaspoonful of pap
rika and, if preferred, a tablespoonful of
cherry or madeira. Toast six small thin
slices of bread and pour the mushrooms
over them. Lemon juice and a speck of
minced parsley may be used in place of the
wine.
When fresh mushrooms are not obtain
able, 5 cents' worth of dried ones pur
chased at any of the Italian stores will
make a number of delicious sauces. They
are best bought in small quantities, as they
become infested with worms on exposure
to air.
"It is a mistaken idea," declares a mem
ber of the New York Mycological Society,
"that the effect of the poison varieties of
the mushroom family is almost immedi
ately felt On the contrary, those produc
ing nausea only take effect in an hour or
so, while the njost deadly species take from
eight to twelve hours, and sometimes twen
ty hours to produce a perceptible effect.
The best way to determine the character of
the mushroom is to learn the danger marks
which distinguish the most deadly speci
mens. The Amanitas has instead of the
purple o- pinkish gills, peculiar to the edi
ble kind, pure while gills, while the base of
the stalk Is swollen into a bulbous state."
An iced peach charlotte which is both
delicious and decorative is made in this
wise. Peel a half dozen large ripe peaches,
cut in halves, remove the stones and chop
in small pieces. Sprinkle with a few drops
of vanlla and a wine glass of rum. Cut
thin slices of sponge cake into strips or use
lady fingers, lining a charlotte mold with
them, and allowing them to overlap. Put
the mold in a pan, and surround with
chipped ice. As soon as chilled, put a
layer of peaches at the bottom of the mold,
whip a little unset Jelly (gelatine) with a
wineglass of Maraschino?the Eagle liquor
preferred?and pour sufficient into the mold
to cover the peaches. Let It stand sur
rounded by ice until the jelly is set, then
add more peaches and jelly, until the mold
is full, in each case allowing the jelly to
set before another layer is added. Cover
the mold and keen on the ice for an hour.
Turn the charlotte out of the mold onto a
flat dish, garnish the base with quarters
of peach and leaves of angelica, pour a lit
tle Maraschino over all and serve.
Another variation in peach pies is made
by combining a little apple marmalade
with the peaches. Spread the bottom of
the unbaked crust of the pie with a thin
layer of the marmalade. Slice ripe peaches
over it, dredging thickly .with granulated
sugar. Bake three-quarters of an hour,
dredge again with sugar and set back in
the oven to melt. Then pour over it a
quarter cupful melted apple or ppach Jelly
and serve with a whipped cream or me
ringue piled over it.
It frequently happens in preserving that
the syrup begins to rise so rapidly that
there is no time to lift the heavy kettle
aside. In this emergency a tablespoonful J
of cold water thrown over the syrup will
cause it to subside.
An open peach pie served with wn.pped
cream may be a novelty to many house
keepers. It is certainly one of the most de
lightful of all pies. Line a deep plate with i
tender crust and bake as for lemon pies.
Then fill with fresh or even canned peaches,
sweetened to taste, and cover thickly with
sweetened whipped cream.
Maraschino cordial, which has for its
basis the Marasco or wild cherry. Is about
the only flavor that o^ibines perfectly with
peach.
Angelica cut into thin strips and these
into triangular pieces without waste makes
a good imitation of leaves.
Kanhloii Frill*.
Many wraps are made in guipure over a
color. Some fit the shoulders and reach to
the elbow, where the edges turn up all
round, showing a contrasting colored lin
ing, the velvet edges bordered with a dou
ble ruching of silk muslin, a high collar
completing the effect. Then some of the
velvet mantels are longer In the back than
In the front and are bordered with shaped
flounces strapped with cloth, the turn-down
collar being edged with velvet, which shows
the newest form of bolero. It Is furnished
with a hood. Some of the cloth coats are
stitched all over and display straps and
buttons down the front.
In Paris the accordion plaited skirts hold
sway for young people, and soft woolen
materials of all sorts are employed, such
as veiling, cashmere and crape fabrics.
The bodices are made with deep belts and
plaited yokes and epaulets, a lace beading
outlining the yokes. Even children are
wearing boleros and fancy jackets, very
often in contrast to the dress. Light col
ored silks for evening wear for young girls
are often trimmed with black mousseline.
The newest lingerie from Paris gives
stout iigures the aspect of slender hips, the
petticoat clinging from the waist to below
the knees. The princess gowns specially
need skirts of this nature, and, indeed,
these new sets of lingerie In one piece are
invaluable for present fashions. Chemises,
drawers and petticoats combined have been
brought out in several designs, and morn
ing gowns in plain silks, in cashmere pat
terned panne, are nearly all trimmed with
Inserted bands of lace. Swan's down is
coming in again as a trimming for morn
ing gowns made in soft wool.
Nothing is prettier than the silk slips
hand worked and of English make, the
stitching of the finest, the elaborate pat
terns carried out by means of tuckings and
lace Insertions.
The popularity of lace does not In the
least wane, though its spell Is already so
long. The sequin Is still surviving, though
this season mainly in embroidery on !ace
and always of the smaller sort, veering al
most to the size of the bead.. Finely se
qulned lace frocks will reappear this win
ter and possibly in those pale colors we
have already admired, as well as in white
and black. Sashes will certainly continue'
to form a feature over the simple gathered
backs of the incoming skirt. A simple
skirt with the material Jyin* crosswise
over the hips and settlngwitoiillght gath
ers Into the band will proPfcbl>':$?- the form
of skirt adopted, and. In', fac^that is al
ready being adopted by tho?e% the van.
It is very graceful and really be worn
by almost any figure. The makes a
charming finish for a slight fifpnre. Paquin
gives such sweet decorative ends to his
sashes, and often these are spoon shaped,
In which guise they have a quaint lappet
sort of look. Embroideries will be just as
general on all kinds of ertsrtumds, from the
veriest web of an evening gown to the
novelties of the tailor and the furrier.
Autumn .Novelties.'
From Harper's Baisar. } (if
Wide, folded belts of satin ori panne vel
vet are still fashionable, ^nd ate on many
of the gowns now being designed for the
autumn. They are not erfsy to-;make, and
require to be carefully fitted. The only
time when they are possible for a short
walsted person is when they are worn un
der a bolero Jacket. A smart gown In light
blue cloth that has Just been made up (for
tunately for a long-waisted, slender wo
man) has one of these belts In black satin
that Is nearly a quarter of a yard wide.
Small watch charms or bracelet charms
are now quite a fad with smartly gowned
women, quite a cluster of them being seen
on bracelets or watch chains. Some of
th^se charms are of stones, like topazes
and. amethysts, and there are many set In
heart shape or points, with a thread of gold
around them, or with what looks like a
shank of closely set brilliants.
To keep meat fresh In hot weather cover
It over with bran and hang it In a current
of air.
Moses' annual September Bale.?Advt.
CROFTER PLAID AND A DRESS OP PERSIAN BLUE CLOTH.
FOR SCHOOL GIRLS
Fashions for Every Day and Sunday
Best Costumes,
SCOTCH CROFTER CLOTHS IN PAYOR
The Fichu Does Not Mean a Re
vival of the Shawl.
THE OCTOBER PLAIDS
Spccial Correspondence of The Evening Stnr.
NEW YORK, September 13, 1900.
It is a case of the old love forgotten for
th<- sake of the newest charmer, who comes
In the guise of most interesting autumn
fabrics and fashions. Bewitchingly pretty
shirt waists of lawn, bolts of the finest
organdie and bargains gaiore in white
pique petticoats, go a begging at counters
where lately their admirers swarmed in
ilnes three deep. Everybody is struggling
to be waited on in aisles where woolen
goods and new felt shapes and October
Ideas in gloves prevail, and the mothers of
daughters predominate in the rush of early
shoppers.
The demands of the school girl must be
first looked to, and kindergarten six and
sweet sixteen are such modish creatures
these days, so thoroughly au courrant with
the fashion that the mothers are obliged to
look alive, or like as not the short-skirted
autocrats will turn the purchases back on
the parental hands. Most of the discreet
mammas Invite their small daughters out
on these shopping excursions and permit
the precocious feminine eye and taste to
aevelop all its native born talent for co.'or
and form.
Sweet Sixteen Liken Plaidn.
This autumn the school girls, to use their
own expression, are "rather gone on"
plaids, and they like the richly tinted
Scotch cloths in no more than three colors
at most. The girls whose skirts reach their
shoe tops have adopted skirts of plaid wool
with waists of solid color, and in juvenile
circles there is a demand for boleros and
Eton waists.
What the smart Junior class students arc
wearing is pretty clearly demonstrated In
the group'of slim young ladies carrying
shining faces to the opening exercises. The
one to the left wears a skirt of Crofter's
cloth, rmoke gray in tone, striped in lines
of brown, but a brown of so warm a tone
that it is nearly red, and is supposed to re
eemhle the dry.bracken or fern of a Scotch
moor. The waist is gray, with cuffs and
collar and belt of brown, edged with bands
of gray stitched in brown. The front of
the waist is a vest of gray corded silk,
repeatedly stitched in brown, and the hat
is a felt of dry bracken color, adorned with
a big gilt buckle, a .crown baud of brown
velvet and two artificial long plumes made
of short, curly gray ibis feathers fixed to
spines, like those of ostrich plumes.
This girl wears gray gaiters over her
black enamel leather walking shoes, a
fashion that seems confined Just now to
school girls, but none the less does it prom
ise to become a widespread habit among
their elders during this autumn and next
winter.
The companion to this pretty student
is a young iady in French broadcloth of
rich Persian blue, a color that has had a
great popularity and promises to be none
the less worn in the new season. Here
the severely plain skirt is relieved by tail
ored bands of gray blue cloth, stitched with
=W
silk of the shade that matches the skirt.
The upper half of this little suit is an ex
tremely short-waisted bolero slipped upon
a skirt of grayish blue silk, prettily stitch
ed to accord with the treatment of the
skirt. Atop of it all goes a hat of stitched
blue cloth, crowned with masses of vel
vet dahlias, ranging in color from the pal
est ash-gray to the deepest purplish-blue.
Artfully made velvet dahlias, chrysanthe
mums and rusty red, deep violet and gray
green roses are, in Paris, sprouting in lib
eral wreaths ar*d bouquets on every new
hat, and the school girls are merely a few
weeks ahead of their elders in wearing
them, that is all.
A Pretty and I'aefnl Model.
A pretty and typical figure is that of
the miss in plaids and a bolero, who, with
her books and her busy air, her short skirt
and braided hair, plainly indicates that get
ting an education is just now her one ob
ject in life. Her suit is an admirable text
in green from which to preach a forcible
sermon on the virtues and importance of
this color for winter gowns. Green with a
bright note of red in it is, we hear, echoed
from the dressmaking establishments, the
very nicest idea for a very modern winter
suit. Clear dark green crossed on gray
green bands upon a gray groundwork is
the combination in this girl's suit. Her
flannel skirt matches the gray-green stripes
of her skirt, her coat accords in tone with
the broad dark green bands, and upon her
shoulders a collar of green silk turns back,
edged with a frill of clear crimson silk
and prettily embroidered in knots and
wheels of the same bright color.
The French Length Skirt.
Smaller girls, as is befitting, lean to more
independent and strictly juvenile ideas in
ditss than their longer-skirted sisters, but
plaid wools and full skirts have with them
almost as far-reaching an influence. Thero
is a sensible tendency to cut little girl's
skirts to the French length for juveniles:
that is, just below the knee, and in cold
Green and Red Cloth.
weather to protect the shapely legs with
extra heavy hose. The very young women
in the accompanying sketch give an excel
lent impression of the simplicity that is
sure to prevail in the wan!robes of six and
nine-year-olds. The child in the blue and
red plaid suit boasts only a few dark red
velvet bands and a frill of blue silk on her
collar by way of decoration, and her com
TWO RBV MODELS FOR SCHOOL WEAK.
panlon. In green, shows stitchings In black
on her little skirt that Is picked out In wee
rings of the same, while a vest and frill
of cherry red si'ik ornaments her bodice.
Very shaggy and satin-finished cloths
promise to struggle for the supremacy
later on. The needles are flying Just now
about mid-season suits 6f handsome Eng
lish etamlne woven In heavier quality than
we have ever seen before. This particular
cloth is set ofT to perfection by narrow
bands of stitched smooth-faced goods and
stitched folds of silk, of which women have
not yet tired. I?ark blue and green and
bronze" brown etamines. on which hand
s< me black silk passamenterie Is appllqued
in panels is the most modish idea the
autumn has yet brought forth for calling
and house gowns, and. prophetic forecast
itigs of styles to the contrary, we evidently
will continue to .wear skirts cut for nc
fullness about the hips and belt, but an ex
travagant spread of goods about the feet.
The Fichu Effect*.
Over and over again in the models that
dressmakers are receiving from the other
side do we see the flchu effect repeated.
This has led not a few prescient souls into
false conclusions and assertions anent the
revival of shawl wearing. Indeed, the fu
ture holds no such trial in store for us, but
the gowns are exceedingly pretty with their
various shoulder draperies that cross the
back with deftly placed folds and flow
over the,shoulders, to cast a discreet and
necessary cap upon the sleeves, while the
ends of the flchu are capable of an infinite
number of charming and valuable arrange
ments in front. Plainly, this shawl-like
drapery is the resuscitation of a contem
porary of the under sleeve, which, by the
way, like the star spangled banner, will
long and triumphantly continue to -vave ita
luxuriant folds about the tapering fore
arms of well-dressed womenkind.
Among those etamine gowns referred tp
this feature is most conspicuously In evi
dence. The cloth sleeve opens out at the
elbow in a ealla Illy shape, or fastens firm
ly with a turn-back cuff, and from this
point down to the wrist extends a lawn un
dersleeve of white swiss, crimped with
countless overlapping frills of cream Val
enciennes lace. Another popular arrange
ment, with handsome reception gowns of
dark cloth are sleeves made wholly o(
cream white silk muslin, closely accordion
p'eated to fit the arm. The lining for these
Is one thin skin of chiffon, fitting the arm
snugly, and this covering extends from
shoulder to wrist. Upon this fragile and
lovely dressing goes the large dress sleeve
of cloth that is not closed on the Inside
seam, save with a few tiny Jeweled links,
so that at every motion of the arm the
feathery lining shows to great advantage.
MARY DEAN.
The Latest In Blouse*.
In spite of rumors of the early part of
the season, blouses of every kind are more
popular than ever. During the earlier part
of the day they are of the simplest char?
acter, but for afternoon or evening wear
it is just the contrary, as the materials em?
I
A bewitching little house dress of heavy straw
berry red ijrass cloth, trimmed with white I > raid
ami white linen. It U a must satisfactory school
frock, and can be worn until December.
ployed in their construction are very ex
pensive, and, if ordered to be made in the
usual way, cost a great deal of money on
account of the high prices that have to bd
paid by the dressmakers for skilled ma
chinists and embroideresses.
The demand for fine needlework and ar
tistic silk embroidery for decorating the
fronts and collars of blouse bodices Is un
precedented. Real lace forms the upper
half of some of the most expensive blouses,
and the yokes are worn next to the skin,
namely, without a foundation of any kind.
The effect is very beautiful and more suit
able than leaving the throat and shoulders
exposed. Belo-y the fullness of the figure
the silk or crepe de chine is gathered up
into narrow tucks, and some of them are
so fine that it makes one wonder how hands
and eyesight could be so accurate as to
turn out such stitching and so regularly
gauge the space between each tiny fold.
Satin merv and china silks can now be
purchased already plaited and tucked, of"
the material might be bought in the usual
way and the plaiting or the embroidery
could be done for a small outlay at almost
any sewing machine shop. By this means
a stylish-looking blouse can be acquired
by any one who has the time to spare and
the inclination to make it herself, as the
construction of the blouse Is a very simple
matter.
The Elaborate Sleeve.
The Louis XV sleeves are not popular
with the average person. They leap to the
eye, as the saying goes, too quickly, and
consequently become an aggressive item.
Furthermore, they tend to cut up the en
tire figure in the strangest and most unac
countable way. None but the tall and slim
are in any sort justified in considering
them.
Nor Is the sleeve pagode conducting itself
by any means as well as one could wish.
Familiarity, strangely enough, has not in
this case bred perfection. There is an io
finity of variations, and yet nine out of
ten lack the requisite touch of excellence.
Some women are essaying quite a long and
bell-shaj>ed sleeve that comes quite to the
wrist and only reveals by some chance
movement the existence of a band sleeve
let beneath?a daring departure enough.
There is great need for new designs, as
the sleeve is the making or marring of a
gown.
The Popular Rolero.
Boleros In all materials will be the height
of fashion throughout the winter. The new*
est fasten in front with long scarfs tied In
loose bows.
GOLD MEDAL, PARIS, 1900
The Judges at the Paris Exposition
have awarded a
COLD MEDAL
to
Walter Baker & Co. ^
the largest manufacturers of cocoa and
chocolate in the world. This is the third
award from a Paris Exposition.
BAKER'S
COCOAS AND CHOCOLATES
are always uniform in qual
ity, absolutely pure, deli
cious, and nutritious. The
genuine goods bear our
trade-mark on every pack
age, and are made only by
Waiter Baker & Co. L*,
DORCHESTER MASS.,
TRADE-MARK ESTABLISHED .780.

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