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Special Correspondence of The Evening Star.
PARIS, August 10. 1901. Every one !s commenting upon the grood (sense exercised by Mme. Terry in the se lection of the trousseau of her daughter, who has just married the brother of Count Boni de Castellane. Following the French fashion, only a limited number of hand some costumes were chosen, while quanti ties of handsome lace and webs of rare fabrics were ordered to be made up at the bride's pleasure. In doing this the bride's mother followed the sensible and thrifty ? x imple of the French noblesse rather than that of the millionaire class to which she belongs. Most brides are in a few months heartily weary of their gowns, which have fallen behind the fashion long before they have seen much service. I am told that the young bride looked charming in a gown of white satin, almost hidden by the splendid veil of point d'Alen con, and that fashionable society crowded the church. The Castellanes, radiant and well dressed, were the center of interest. It was noticed that the Countess Jeanne de Castellane was not present at the church. K. he was the rich widow of the Prince de Fun:tenberg when she married one of Count Boni's brothers. The elderly Mar quise de Castellane, mother of the bride groom, looked particularly handsome in ptarl gray satin trimmed with mechlin lace, while Countess Boni de Castellane, who ?was Miss Anna Gould, the American heir ess. was attired in a gown of rose-colored gauze with honlton lace over white satin. Hii&b Kaff* AKflin. I should not be at ail surprised if we had a revival of the Medici ruffs. Ugly as they look in the old portraits, there is no doubt that the artistic skill of one of the great master dressmakers could do wonders in adapting them to the faces and figures of modt-rn belles. Indeed, I have recently seen an example of this in a ruff of white tulle which almost covered the broad coat collar of lace. This collar, by the way, ber of the costumes, although all the ele gance of a full dress toilet was suggested by many of the elegant affairs. One that might be worn to a dance as suitably as to the park was a black mousseline de soie rayed with black velvet ribbons and laid over transparent white. Incrustations of chantilly lace trimmed the flounce upon the skirt, and applications of the chantilly ap peared upon the blouse, which had its little bcltro and empiecement of white. Pointed Waists and Short Sleeves. The use of rayed applications of black velvet is very popular, for, while the re sult upon short figures is not always happy, it is successful if used judiciously for fig ures of moderate height. Instead of cover ing a gown with the shaped bits of velvet, the most tasteful effects are achieved with the use of only a few bands. Round waists are no more. The pointed blci.se gives a longer line to the bodice and is, therefore, more graceful, especially for short figures. Girdles and belts are made to accentuate the pointed waist front, and even when nothing else is worn a coil of silk or ribbon put on at the waist line ex tends the front in appearance. Short sleeves, such charming features of summer frocks, have won such favor that they will be seen even more frequently next year. The woman with the pretty arm is a gainer by this abbreviation of sleeve, and as. even the blanchisseuse fancies that she has an arm which a sculptor might like to model it will be seen that there are no women who have ugly arms?in their own opinion. Most of the sleeves are so cleverly designed that the deficiencies of nature are not glaringly dis played. One sleeve exhibits a fluff ?of chif fon or lace ruffles at the elbow which falls LATE SIMMER TOILETS. almost to the wrist, and other elbows are framed in embroidery or some fanciful trimming that keeps the arm well covered above. Gloves either of silk or kid are donned for outdoor service, and the grace ful roll of the mousquetaire over the scrawny wrist furnishes balm to the lean woman's vanity. Am Trtie an Ever. A clever Frenchwoman once said to me, "Not one woman in a hundred knows how to put on a veil." And in recently looking over a number of well-dressed women I was compelled to agree with her. Veils have been much worn this year, but how seldom were they put on the hat in s\ich a way as to add to its effect! There is a chic little twist in the tying of the knot (or pin ning, which is, I consider, better, since It does not wrinkle the fabric so much) that is a distinct gift. Of course, a great deal i " Thl? ek-gant thm^ttrirr-kngth ft%at of tan "-loth Is wadded and lined with white taffeta, MtlcM. It 1* trlmui.Hl ?ltb stitched hands i>f the cloth and completed with collar of heavy Rus ?iau lace aud long ends and loops of black velvet ilbbon. jjlras the main feature of a very odd turn Eer wrap of cherry-colored cloth trimmed 1th rose-flg?ired foulard. The Jacket was | pi the length described as "three-quarter-i" And had little claim to symmetry since It ?apped carelessly about the figure. One sees many charming gowns on the Keusant d:?ys when excursionists throng Versailles and Fontainebleau, for it is mistake to imagine that cnly the rich id great of Paris are well gowned. Charm actresses and foreign ladies of fashion iporarlly in the city spend the after rons very often among the shady avenues f these suburban resorts. ^ Simplicity characterizes the greater num of the charm of a veil depends upon its freshness. It cannot be safely worn more than half a dozen times. I am told that Mrs. J.angtry, who is one of the best dres?cd wor.ca in the world, never thinks of v. aring her veils more than once. As this is an extravagance few persons can afford, let me make a suggestion. A friend whose veils are always admirable took me into her confidence. She has half a dozen veils in stock and wears each one two or three times. Then she takes the soiled veil and pins it upon a smooth board to extend all wrinkles. When the veil is secured upon the board and is perfectly flat, being held along the edges by small tacks, which she keeps for that purpose, she rinses It thor oughly in a large vessel filled with water in which a little ammonia has been dropped. If she has no time for a serious washing* the veil is held under the hot water faucet and then under the cold be fore being put aside to dry. When it is taken down the material is not stretched out of shape as it would have been had she washed it by hand. Moreover, it has ac quired in the cleansing all the crispness of newness. Thick silk veils cannot, of course, be treated in this way. It is always best to submit them to the professional reno vator. Plenty- to Chooie From. In selecting a few veils for myself I was . Impressed with the variety of patterns. There is the close-meshed white silk, with its big chenille dots. This is the proper thing for yachting wear. Then there is the veil overlaid with clusters of golf sticks, which no golfing girl is content to be with out. Besides these are many odd patterns, patches of flowers and birds with out stretched wings being conspicuous. Cover ed with one of these much decorated af fairs the human face looks much like that of a tattdoed sailor. When the veil is worn merely over the hat it looks all right, but when drawn over the countenance the ef fect is indescribably ugly. The cloak-wearing craze seems to extend to every sort of outdoor costume. The latest development of the fad is the yacht ing cloak, a long affair reaching about to the knees and supplied with a high collar to protect the back of the head. The cloaks are made of fine cloth, the collar faced with velvet widening into revers. On a model shown last week the buttons were large and of chased silver. The cloak itself was a double affair, the upper or cape por tion being about three-quarters of the length of the under section. Such a gar ment cannot be very comfortable on ship board, where the breeze blows everything about in an annoying way, but it might be approved for land use, where its length would make it an excellent thing for stormy winter days. A Rainy Day Coat. Speaking of cloaks recalls to mind the really handsome rainy day coat which I saw the other day. It was of dark blue waterproof serge and covered the gown entirely. The front was trimmed with large buttons. Cuffs qf velvet, a deep col lar and revers of the same and the hand somely stitched patch pockets gave the or namental touches to the wrap. It was silk lined, light, pretty and serviceable. CATHERINE TALBOT. Stylish Underwent*. At this season we are able to pick up wonderful examples in lingerie. Fashion has decreed that we shall spend a fair amount on our petticoats this year. Lawn petticoats in white and pale shades, with a quantity of lace or finest embroidery, are essential to the satisfaction of the woman who prides herself on being thoroughly well turned out. Of course, nothing beats the daintiness of white cambric. Lingerie holds the first and foremost place in the wardrobe of every self-respect ing woman. Good taste and an apprecia tion of daintiness both indicate the soul of an artist, and a woman should certainly be an artist in all matters appertaining to dress. Godliness and virtue are not repre sented by slovenliness of attire, and there is something very unlovely in the peculiar type of woman who wears silk outer rai ment. covering not overclean, uncompro mising underwear. And there is no need for it in these days, for dainty lingerie is obtainable at very small cost, and a good needlewoman can make her own. Of course, on the other hand, we may spend quite a fortune on lingerie de luxe, which is a perfect craze with Parisians and the really smart dresser. A night gown in a delicate shade of silk, cut by the master hand and showing the most ex quisite handwork, with entre deux c.f price less lace, represents a considerable outlay. Parisian Fancied. Parisians still seem to have a decided liking for double skirts, and very smart these are on tall, slight figures. A recent French model was in a fine grass lawn, the upper part of the skirt cut in a point in front and inserted with a curious embroid ery. The bodice was a simple one, having a yoke and collar of the embroidery and two insertions of the same coming round to the front from the back, and fastening with a tie and ends of ciel blue velvet rib bons. Accompanying this was a toque of white tulle veiled with black chantilly lane. A charming dinner gown of Brussels lace has a skirt composed of two deep flounces of the lace, the upper part being cut en princesse and covered with a network of transparent silver embroidery and lace mo tifs. The decolletage is swathed with tulle, caught, and tied with black velvet ribbon. By the way, black velvet ribbon appears to be distinctly popular on the best . French models for both day and evening wear. ??? . Tulle Boaa. The reign of the ruffle has not quite fol lowed the program laid down by the man ufacturers, as at all smart functions, ba zaars, church parade and the afternoon park the huge ruffle of simple black or white tulle is largely en evidence, and the elaborate confections, bristling with bows, lace and ribbon, are decidedly in the mi nority, Tull6 is. however, so ethereal that the simple ruffle will inevitably oe costly in the long run, and once soiled or its crispnesa gone, it is a mere rag, while the expensive ruffle may acquire new life at the hands of the chemical cleaner. The long tails are most awkward for carriage wear, and this i probably accounts for so many ruffles hav ing merely bows or ribbon ends. Up-to-Date Collars. It hardly Seems credible now that any one ever wore high, stiff collars, canvas lined and of the most unyielding descrip I don. If a collar is used at all nowadays It must be soft and transparent. The tailored suits of broadcloth In pale tints ore holding tbr*ir own. The model has a postilion back Eton jacket, braided in delicate tints, with collar, vest and bends of skirt of stitched panne, velvet. Hat of same, with cut steel ornaments and black velvet rosettes. FOR THE SCHOOL DAYS BOXES A\D IIAGS THAT WILL SUG GEST TIDY HABITS. Little Extra** of Great Aid to Teachers and the C'omnifort of Yonnit Pupil*. Written for The Evening Star. While America is more accustomed to schoolmistresses than schoolmasters, none can doubt that the lot of the former is a hard one?underpaid and overworked, the objects of annoyances from superiors and their charges and victims of misunder standing upon the part of those who should be most their debtors and helpers?the parents of their pupils. Possibly no class of wage-earnirg women is so harassed and so illy paid in propor tion to services. Many a discouraged teacher would forget her anxieties if now and then pupils or parents would show some appreciation of the work done for them. Children themselves might take more in terest in school work if at home some small compliment was paid to the importance of their positions as students. Flattery judi ciously applied will lighten the child's bur dens and mal^: the teacher's lot a more bearable one. For instance, oh, mothers of small boys and girls, now that the children are start ing to school after the summer vacation, Interest them in the work by providing them with all the pretty odds and ends which you can think of as accessories to the school outfit. See that the child has a nice slate framed Soft folds of blue silk and camel's hair cloth form the foundation of this hat, which has side trimmirgs of argus breasts and fringed ends of Bilk falhng over the back.. in soft red wool or tired with rubber, which will ease the crash that Inevitably comes when Sally or Johnny cleans the surface. Provide for each youngster a neat pencil box. If it is a home-made one of wood 1 or pasteboard, decorate it with pretty pic tures. These can be pasted on with muci lage and will serve to amuse the little one when teacher calls for the folded arms arid absolute repose of body which Is torture to the healthy, lively boy or girl. Inside a small paper calendar may be pasted. Such calendars, plain or ornamented, can be bought at the stationer's shop. Sections ?ut from a small almanac and mounted on white paper or linen may be substituted for the bought calendar. If the box lid is large enough the twelve pieces should be pasted directly upon the inside, for then the child cannot lose them or tear them from their position. The Small Belong-inKs. The box, if made of rtain wood, may be decorated with designs is lijudia ink with a coarse pen, the outlines' bolAg applied to the box with the aid pf carbon tracing paper. When the art fcork is completed a coat of shellac will keep|j;he ink from i rubbing off. As a pencil dox may be the shops for from. 5 to 25 cents, w *rouble Is unnecessary. The box should be supplied w}t% lead pencils?a hard and a soft one?a slate pencil, an ink eraser, a rubber, a kniie for sharpening pencils and a whetstoae for the knife. , The pair of small scissofB for cutting pa per need not be particularly sharp. A small cushion containing a dozen pins and a sheet of court plaster will be convenient incident- J als. ' A small bottle should be provided for the soapy water which the child likes to use for cleaning his slate. There should also b ai* cotton slate rag, with the child s initial outlined in red linen. The sponge for washing may be attached to the slate by & string. It Is more convenient to the child to have a large-sized box, for there are so many articles which could be stowed away withirf It when not ixrvufte. Among those not already mentioned is the bottle of mucilage or photographers' paste, now so useful In school work. With the paste, of course, goes a small brash. Rubber bands, assorted in size, are useful for keeping books and papers In place. A Downright Joy. A set of colored pencils for map drawing is one of the Joys of the school child's heart. With these he can achieve a more ornamental effect than can the youngster who has nothing but a black lead pel c and a piece of paper. !f The ruler will be a noiseless affair i mounted with rubber. These rulers" cost but little more than the wooden ones, ine owner's name should be stamped upon tnc ruler in such a conspicuous way tnat u. dishonest youths covet it they may be strained by the certainty of detection. All school books should be neatly co^ ered with muslin or linen. Covers are cu out and stitched to slip over the backs of the books, the name of the youngster being outlined on the outside with linen or silk embroidery floss. Some design in "ld'ca tion of the character of the book will the cover ornamental as well as useful, l the linen is self-colored, brown or red will mike the neatest embroidery. Pads or blank paper, so easily soiled, can be placed in a little portfolio made of stiff cardboard and covered as the text books are A blotter book is useful to the child and can also be prepared at home. Tt?e pieces of blotting paper are stitched I'"to 1the cover. A sheet of the paper can be had at any stationery store for about six cents, a quarter of it being enough to gi\e to the child at a time. In the blotting book sev eral sheets of drawing paper should be placed. A notebook is always Part of a school child's outfit. It is needed for mem oranda given out from time to time by the teaCher Boole Covers. A handsome school bag or a school book case should be made or bought. The case need be nothing more than a piece of linen, cut in such shape that when the books are inclosed in it the cover may be buttoned over them. The owner's monogram, a de sign in embroidery and a stout tape bind ing are all* the decorations needed. The handles may be strengthened by the ^er tion of leather between the linen. If a lininK of waterproof material, saj of thin black or white oilcloth similar to that used for covering shelves or tables is used, it will safely protect the books during wet ^Add to these articles a pad for the child s desk and the teacher will have much for which to bless the thoughtful parent. The school mistress is held responsible for the condition of the furniture in her room, and no matter how careful youngsters mean to be they are always dropping in* upon the desks and scratching them with books and boxes. A very handsome flat cover for the desk may be made of felt, pinked at the edge, and marked with the child's name. A couple of sheets of dark blue biotting paper laid over the desk will serve the same purpose and is less expensive. A Real Luxury. Another useful thing for the school room is a shoe bag. On damp days the shoes of the pupils are either tossed oven the floor, tripping up the unwary, or are stowed away in the cloak room, accomplishing a remarkable tangle, which is the cause of numerous errors, leading to hard feeling. The bag need be nothing more than a piece of stout, dark linen, cretonne or denim. It should be marked with the owner's name and supplied with a drawing string, by which It may be hung up. A report case to hold the official record of the child's progress can also be made out of linen and cardboard, patterned on the style of those cases sold to preserve com muters' railroad tickets. Of course it need not be mentioned here that nothing delights a child so much as a pretty penwiper. The respect which one youngster feels for another owning a hand some penwiper is something that words cannot measure. A stone upon which the pencil may be sharpened, a tiny toilet case containing a miniature mirror, a piece of soap, a washcloth, toothbrush and comb and a piece of pumice stone to remove ink stains should be provided for neat little girls who take their lunch to school with them. Lunch boxes lined with tin foil will keep food fresh and nice. The napkin about the food keeps it from coming in contact with the foil. Back to Pinafores. Although the custom of wearing aprons to school has gone out in America, it is one that cannot be too highly commended for little girls. English children are al ways wearers of pinafores in the nursery and in the school room. Mothers should be considerate enough of the teacher to see that the children are sent to school with shoes neatly shod with rubber. This will assure a saving, for the rubber-soled shoes will wear twice as long as the ordinary sort. The application of rubber will save the child many a cold on wet days when he or she is caught out without overshoes, and will obviate that shufHing and thumping which arise in every school room when the children move about. New Patterns in Muslins. The muslins this year are delightful Each season they seem to get more and more attractive. The most popular are still of French design or pin-spotted. A few Japanese patterns have made their appearance, but they are inclined to be large, and must therefore be treated with care. - Care of the Baby's Hair. Every morning after baby's hair has been washed and well brushed do not leave it hlce and smooth and tidy, but-with the tips of the fingers rub the head all over very eently with a short circular motion from rUcht to left. This causes the roots of the hair to twist, and curly hair will be the rw,ult* Substitute for Coffee. An excellent substitute for coffee will be found in the following: Peel a parsnip, then cut up in small slices and bake in a slow oven until It is "dark brown. Then grind up in the same way as coffee berries and make in the usual way. K7ITLLI0NS of Women Use CUTICURA SOAP, 1V1 assisted by Cuticura Ointment, for preserving, purifying, and beautifying the skin, for cleansing the scalp of crusts, scales, and dandruff, and the stopping of falling hair, for softening, whitening, and soothing red, rough, and sore hands, for baby rashes, itchings, and chafings, in the form of baths for annoying irritations and inflammations, or too free or offensive perspiration, in the form, of washes for ulcerative weaknesses, and many sanative, antiseptic purposes which readily suggest them selves to women and mothers, and for all the purposes of the toilet, bath, and nursery. No amount of persuasion can induce those who have once used these great skin purifiers and beautifiers to use any others. CUTICURA SOAP combines delicate emollient properties derived from CUTICURA, the great skin cure, with the purest of cleansing ingredients and the most refreshing of flower odours. No other medicated soap ever compounded is to be compared with it for preserving, purifying, and beauti fying the skin, scalp, hair, and hands. No other foreign or domestic toilet soap, however expensive, is to be com pared with it for all the purposes of the toilet, bath, and nursery. Thus it combines in ONE SOAP at ONE PRICE, the BEST skin and complexion soap, and the BEST toilet and baby soap in the world. t\ Complete External and Internal Treatment for every humour. Consisting of CuncrRA Soap, to cleanse the skin of crust* ana scales ana soften the thickened cuticle; Cutictra Ointment, to instantly allay itching, inflammation, and irritation, and soothe and heal; and CrncuRA Resolvent, to cool and cleanse the fHP CBT blood. A Single Set is often sufficient to cure the most tortur ing OKI disfiguring, itching, burning, and scaly skin, scalp, and blood humours, with loss of hair, when all else fails. Sold throughout the world. British Depot: F.Newbery & Sons, 27 and 28, Charterhouse Sq., London, E. C. Pott eh Dura Ain> Chemical Corporation, Sole Props.. Boston, U. 8. A. ?ticura GOLDEN ItlLE OK HORTICULTURE. Plant Suitable ThinK* la Appropriate Places?Give a Lawn First Place. Written for The Evening Star. One fine tree or shrub, growing where na ture might have planted It, Is worth a dozen crowded and ill-placed specimens. The golden rule of horticulture is, "Never plant anything without an appropriate place for it." Never plant anything that will attain ultimate large size where it will not have room to expand, or where its size will be objectionable when grown. Vines for pillars and walls, shrubs for screens and backgrounds, trees for needed tween a dwelling house and the street? < They shut off every vista or point of view from those within and hide all beauty from ; the passerby. Or could anything be more ; abominable than a conspicuously artificial rockery built in the middle of a green lawn? It is about as appropriate there as an In dian wigwam would be. The first consideration is not tree or shrub or plant, but a smooth expanse oft green lawn. The grassy lawn is the out side garment of our home. The trees, shrubs, vines and flowers are the trim mings and ornaments. Naturally, the lat ter should not be used to excess. The lawn is the vantage ground from which the flow-; ers and shrubbery growth stand out in full relief. Keep the grass therefore low, smooth and velvety. Grow a world of flow*: 1 The box-plaited wai?t of this light tan nun'* Toiling to trimmed with tee* appllqtie. With baby velvet ribbtn of black. Shirred white chiffon Teat with roaettea of white narrow vet ribbon. Skirt Is box-plnited and stitched through the renter. . 11 i shade, beds of flowers bordering wains and drives, ail are pleasing becau.se appropriate and natural. On the contrary, could ary ers If you want them, but do not scatta*! them promiscuously here, there and every* J where over the grass plot. In the yard, M thing be in worse taste than thick rows of in the house, let there be a place for evergreen, such as we sometimes see be- i thing, and everything in Its place. ./