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Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, August 24, 1901, Image 17

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Special Correspondence of The Evening Star.
PARIS, August 10. 1901.
Every one !s commenting upon the grood
(sense exercised by Mme. Terry in the se
lection of the trousseau of her daughter,
who has just married the brother of Count
Boni de Castellane. Following the French
fashion, only a limited number of hand
some costumes were chosen, while quanti
ties of handsome lace and webs of rare
fabrics were ordered to be made up at the
bride's pleasure. In doing this the bride's
mother followed the sensible and thrifty
? x imple of the French noblesse rather than
that of the millionaire class to which she
belongs. Most brides are in a few months
heartily weary of their gowns, which have
fallen behind the fashion long before they
have seen much service.
I am told that the young bride looked
charming in a gown of white satin, almost
hidden by the splendid veil of point d'Alen
con, and that fashionable society crowded
the church. The Castellanes, radiant and
well dressed, were the center of interest.
It was noticed that the Countess Jeanne de
Castellane was not present at the church.
K. he was the rich widow of the Prince de
Fun:tenberg when she married one of
Count Boni's brothers. The elderly Mar
quise de Castellane, mother of the bride
groom, looked particularly handsome in
ptarl gray satin trimmed with mechlin lace,
while Countess Boni de Castellane, who
?was Miss Anna Gould, the American heir
ess. was attired in a gown of rose-colored
gauze with honlton lace over white satin.
Hii&b Kaff* AKflin.
I should not be at ail surprised if we had
a revival of the Medici ruffs. Ugly as they
look in the old portraits, there is no doubt
that the artistic skill of one of the great
master dressmakers could do wonders in
adapting them to the faces and figures of
modt-rn belles. Indeed, I have recently
seen an example of this in a ruff of white
tulle which almost covered the broad coat
collar of lace. This collar, by the way,
ber of the costumes, although all the ele
gance of a full dress toilet was suggested
by many of the elegant affairs. One that
might be worn to a dance as suitably as to
the park was a black mousseline de soie
rayed with black velvet ribbons and laid
over transparent white. Incrustations of
chantilly lace trimmed the flounce upon the
skirt, and applications of the chantilly ap
peared upon the blouse, which had its little
bcltro and empiecement of white.
Pointed Waists and Short Sleeves.
The use of rayed applications of black
velvet is very popular, for, while the re
sult upon short figures is not always happy,
it is successful if used judiciously for fig
ures of moderate height. Instead of cover
ing a gown with the shaped bits of velvet,
the most tasteful effects are achieved with
the use of only a few bands.
Round waists are no more. The pointed
blci.se gives a longer line to the bodice and
is, therefore, more graceful, especially for
short figures. Girdles and belts are made
to accentuate the pointed waist front, and
even when nothing else is worn a coil of
silk or ribbon put on at the waist line ex
tends the front in appearance.
Short sleeves, such charming features of
summer frocks, have won such favor that
they will be seen even more frequently
next year. The woman with the pretty
arm is a gainer by this abbreviation of
sleeve, and as. even the blanchisseuse
fancies that she has an arm which a
sculptor might like to model it will be seen
that there are no women who have ugly
arms?in their own opinion. Most of the
sleeves are so cleverly designed that the
deficiencies of nature are not glaringly dis
played. One sleeve exhibits a fluff ?of chif
fon or lace ruffles at the elbow which falls
almost to the wrist, and other elbows are
framed in embroidery or some fanciful
trimming that keeps the arm well covered
above. Gloves either of silk or kid are
donned for outdoor service, and the grace
ful roll of the mousquetaire over the
scrawny wrist furnishes balm to the lean
woman's vanity.
Am Trtie an Ever.
A clever Frenchwoman once said to me,
"Not one woman in a hundred knows how
to put on a veil." And in recently looking
over a number of well-dressed women I
was compelled to agree with her. Veils have
been much worn this year, but how seldom
were they put on the hat in s\ich a way
as to add to its effect! There is a chic
little twist in the tying of the knot (or pin
ning, which is, I consider, better, since It
does not wrinkle the fabric so much) that
is a distinct gift. Of course, a great deal
i "
Thl? ek-gant thm^ttrirr-kngth ft%at of tan "-loth Is wadded and lined with white taffeta,
MtlcM. It 1* trlmui.Hl ?ltb stitched hands i>f the cloth and completed with collar of heavy Rus
?iau lace aud long ends and loops of black velvet ilbbon.
jjlras the main feature of a very odd turn
Eer wrap of cherry-colored cloth trimmed
1th rose-flg?ired foulard. The Jacket was |
pi the length described as "three-quarter-i"
And had little claim to symmetry since It
?apped carelessly about the figure.
One sees many charming gowns on the
Keusant d:?ys when excursionists throng
Versailles and Fontainebleau, for it is
mistake to imagine that cnly the rich
id great of Paris are well gowned. Charm
actresses and foreign ladies of fashion
iporarlly in the city spend the after
rons very often among the shady avenues
f these suburban resorts.
^ Simplicity characterizes the greater num
of the charm of a veil depends upon its
freshness. It cannot be safely worn more
than half a dozen times. I am told that
Mrs. J.angtry, who is one of the best
dres?cd wor.ca in the world, never thinks
of v. aring her veils more than once. As
this is an extravagance few persons can
afford, let me make a suggestion. A friend
whose veils are always admirable took me
into her confidence. She has half a dozen
veils in stock and wears each one two or
three times. Then she takes the soiled veil
and pins it upon a smooth board to extend
all wrinkles. When the veil is secured upon
the board and is perfectly flat, being held
along the edges by small tacks, which she
keeps for that purpose, she rinses It thor
oughly in a large vessel filled with water
in which a little ammonia has been
dropped. If she has no time for a serious
washing* the veil is held under the hot
water faucet and then under the cold be
fore being put aside to dry. When it is
taken down the material is not stretched
out of shape as it would have been had she
washed it by hand. Moreover, it has ac
quired in the cleansing all the crispness of
newness. Thick silk veils cannot, of course,
be treated in this way. It is always best
to submit them to the professional reno
Plenty- to Chooie From.
In selecting a few veils for myself I was
. Impressed with the variety of patterns.
There is the close-meshed white silk, with
its big chenille dots. This is the proper
thing for yachting wear. Then there is the
veil overlaid with clusters of golf sticks,
which no golfing girl is content to be with
out. Besides these are many odd patterns,
patches of flowers and birds with out
stretched wings being conspicuous. Cover
ed with one of these much decorated af
fairs the human face looks much like that
of a tattdoed sailor. When the veil is worn
merely over the hat it looks all right, but
when drawn over the countenance the ef
fect is indescribably ugly.
The cloak-wearing craze seems to extend
to every sort of outdoor costume. The
latest development of the fad is the yacht
ing cloak, a long affair reaching about to
the knees and supplied with a high collar
to protect the back of the head. The cloaks
are made of fine cloth, the collar faced
with velvet widening into revers. On a
model shown last week the buttons were
large and of chased silver. The cloak itself
was a double affair, the upper or cape por
tion being about three-quarters of the
length of the under section. Such a gar
ment cannot be very comfortable on ship
board, where the breeze blows everything
about in an annoying way, but it might
be approved for land use, where its length
would make it an excellent thing for
stormy winter days.
A Rainy Day Coat.
Speaking of cloaks recalls to mind the
really handsome rainy day coat which I
saw the other day. It was of dark blue
waterproof serge and covered the gown
entirely. The front was trimmed with
large buttons. Cuffs qf velvet, a deep col
lar and revers of the same and the hand
somely stitched patch pockets gave the or
namental touches to the wrap. It was
silk lined, light, pretty and serviceable.
Stylish Underwent*.
At this season we are able to pick up
wonderful examples in lingerie. Fashion
has decreed that we shall spend a fair
amount on our petticoats this year. Lawn
petticoats in white and pale shades, with
a quantity of lace or finest embroidery, are
essential to the satisfaction of the woman
who prides herself on being thoroughly
well turned out.
Of course, nothing beats the daintiness
of white cambric.
Lingerie holds the first and foremost
place in the wardrobe of every self-respect
ing woman. Good taste and an apprecia
tion of daintiness both indicate the soul of
an artist, and a woman should certainly be
an artist in all matters appertaining to
dress. Godliness and virtue are not repre
sented by slovenliness of attire, and there
is something very unlovely in the peculiar
type of woman who wears silk outer rai
ment. covering not overclean, uncompro
mising underwear. And there is no need
for it in these days, for dainty lingerie is
obtainable at very small cost, and a good
needlewoman can make her own.
Of course, on the other hand, we may
spend quite a fortune on lingerie de luxe,
which is a perfect craze with Parisians
and the really smart dresser. A night
gown in a delicate shade of silk, cut by
the master hand and showing the most ex
quisite handwork, with entre deux c.f price
less lace, represents a considerable outlay.
Parisian Fancied.
Parisians still seem to have a decided
liking for double skirts, and very smart
these are on tall, slight figures. A recent
French model was in a fine grass lawn, the
upper part of the skirt cut in a point in
front and inserted with a curious embroid
ery. The bodice was a simple one, having
a yoke and collar of the embroidery and
two insertions of the same coming round
to the front from the back, and fastening
with a tie and ends of ciel blue velvet rib
bons. Accompanying this was a toque of
white tulle veiled with black chantilly
A charming dinner gown of Brussels lace
has a skirt composed of two deep flounces
of the lace, the upper part being cut en
princesse and covered with a network of
transparent silver embroidery and lace mo
tifs. The decolletage is swathed with tulle,
caught, and tied with black velvet ribbon.
By the way, black velvet ribbon appears
to be distinctly popular on the best . French
models for both day and evening wear.
??? .
Tulle Boaa.
The reign of the ruffle has not quite fol
lowed the program laid down by the man
ufacturers, as at all smart functions, ba
zaars, church parade and the afternoon
park the huge ruffle of simple black or
white tulle is largely en evidence, and the
elaborate confections, bristling with bows,
lace and ribbon, are decidedly in the mi
Tull6 is. however, so ethereal that the
simple ruffle will inevitably oe costly in the
long run, and once soiled or its crispnesa
gone, it is a mere rag, while the expensive
ruffle may acquire new life at the hands of
the chemical cleaner. The long tails are
most awkward for carriage wear, and this
i probably accounts for so many ruffles hav
ing merely bows or ribbon ends.
Up-to-Date Collars.
It hardly Seems credible now that any
one ever wore high, stiff collars, canvas
lined and of the most unyielding descrip
I don. If a collar is used at all nowadays
It must be soft and transparent.
The tailored suits of broadcloth In pale tints ore holding tbr*ir own. The model has a postilion
back Eton jacket, braided in delicate tints, with collar, vest and bends of skirt of stitched panne,
velvet. Hat of same, with cut steel ornaments and black velvet rosettes.
Little Extra** of Great Aid to Teachers
and the C'omnifort of
Yonnit Pupil*.
Written for The Evening Star.
While America is more accustomed to
schoolmistresses than schoolmasters, none
can doubt that the lot of the former is a
hard one?underpaid and overworked, the
objects of annoyances from superiors and
their charges and victims of misunder
standing upon the part of those who should
be most their debtors and helpers?the
parents of their pupils.
Possibly no class of wage-earnirg women
is so harassed and so illy paid in propor
tion to services. Many a discouraged
teacher would forget her anxieties if now
and then pupils or parents would show
some appreciation of the work done for
Children themselves might take more in
terest in school work if at home some small
compliment was paid to the importance of
their positions as students. Flattery judi
ciously applied will lighten the child's bur
dens and mal^: the teacher's lot a more
bearable one.
For instance, oh, mothers of small boys
and girls, now that the children are start
ing to school after the summer vacation,
Interest them in the work by providing
them with all the pretty odds and ends
which you can think of as accessories to
the school outfit.
See that the child has a nice slate framed
Soft folds of blue silk and camel's hair cloth
form the foundation of this hat, which has side
trimmirgs of argus breasts and fringed ends of
Bilk falhng over the back..
in soft red wool or tired with rubber, which
will ease the crash that Inevitably comes
when Sally or Johnny cleans the surface.
Provide for each youngster a neat pencil
box. If it is a home-made one of wood
1 or pasteboard, decorate it with pretty pic
tures. These can be pasted on with muci
lage and will serve to amuse the little one
when teacher calls for the folded arms arid
absolute repose of body which Is torture
to the healthy, lively boy or girl. Inside
a small paper calendar may be pasted.
Such calendars, plain or ornamented, can
be bought at the stationer's shop. Sections
?ut from a small almanac and mounted on
white paper or linen may be substituted for
the bought calendar. If the box lid is large
enough the twelve pieces should be pasted
directly upon the inside, for then the child
cannot lose them or tear them from their
The Small Belong-inKs.
The box, if made of rtain wood, may be
decorated with designs is lijudia ink with a
coarse pen, the outlines' bolAg applied to
the box with the aid pf carbon tracing
paper. When the art fcork is completed
a coat of shellac will keep|j;he ink from i
rubbing off. As a pencil dox may be
the shops for from. 5 to 25 cents,
w *rouble Is unnecessary. The box
should be supplied w}t% lead pencils?a
hard and a soft one?a slate pencil, an ink
eraser, a rubber, a kniie for sharpening
pencils and a whetstoae for the knife. ,
The pair of small scissofB for cutting pa
per need not be particularly sharp. A small
cushion containing a dozen pins and a sheet
of court plaster will be convenient incident- J
als. '
A small bottle should be provided for the
soapy water which the child likes to use
for cleaning his slate. There should also
b ai* cotton slate rag, with the
child s initial outlined in red linen. The
sponge for washing may be attached to the
slate by & string.
It Is more convenient to the child to have
a large-sized box, for there are so many
articles which could be stowed away
withirf It when not ixrvufte. Among those
not already mentioned is the bottle of
mucilage or photographers' paste, now so
useful In school work. With the paste, of
course, goes a small brash. Rubber bands,
assorted in size, are useful for keeping
books and papers In place.
A Downright Joy.
A set of colored pencils for map drawing
is one of the Joys of the school child's
heart. With these he can achieve a more
ornamental effect than can the youngster
who has nothing but a black lead pel c
and a piece of paper. !f
The ruler will be a noiseless affair i
mounted with rubber. These rulers" cost but
little more than the wooden ones, ine
owner's name should be stamped upon tnc
ruler in such a conspicuous way tnat u.
dishonest youths covet it they may be
strained by the certainty of detection.
All school books should be neatly co^
ered with muslin or linen. Covers are cu
out and stitched to slip over the backs of
the books, the name of the youngster being
outlined on the outside with linen or silk
embroidery floss. Some design in "ld'ca
tion of the character of the book will
the cover ornamental as well as useful, l
the linen is self-colored, brown or red will
mike the neatest embroidery. Pads or
blank paper, so easily soiled, can be placed
in a little portfolio made of stiff cardboard
and covered as the text books are
A blotter book is useful to the child and
can also be prepared at home. Tt?e pieces
of blotting paper are stitched I'"to 1the
cover. A sheet of the paper can be had at
any stationery store for about six cents, a
quarter of it being enough to gi\e to the
child at a time. In the blotting book sev
eral sheets of drawing paper should be
placed. A notebook is always Part of a
school child's outfit. It is needed for mem
oranda given out from time to time by the
teaCher Boole Covers.
A handsome school bag or a school book
case should be made or bought. The case
need be nothing more than a piece of linen,
cut in such shape that when the books are
inclosed in it the cover may be buttoned
over them. The owner's monogram, a de
sign in embroidery and a stout tape bind
ing are all* the decorations needed. The
handles may be strengthened by the ^er
tion of leather between the linen. If a
lininK of waterproof material, saj of thin
black or white oilcloth similar to that used
for covering shelves or tables is used, it
will safely protect the books during wet
^Add to these articles a pad for the child s
desk and the teacher will have much for
which to bless the thoughtful parent. The
school mistress is held responsible for the
condition of the furniture in her room, and
no matter how careful youngsters mean to
be they are always dropping in* upon the
desks and scratching them with books and
boxes. A very handsome flat cover for the
desk may be made of felt, pinked at the
edge, and marked with the child's name.
A couple of sheets of dark blue biotting
paper laid over the desk will serve the same
purpose and is less expensive.
A Real Luxury.
Another useful thing for the school room
is a shoe bag. On damp days the shoes of
the pupils are either tossed oven the floor,
tripping up the unwary, or are stowed
away in the cloak room, accomplishing a
remarkable tangle, which is the cause of
numerous errors, leading to hard feeling.
The bag need be nothing more than a piece
of stout, dark linen, cretonne or denim. It
should be marked with the owner's name
and supplied with a drawing string, by
which It may be hung up.
A report case to hold the official record of
the child's progress can also be made out
of linen and cardboard, patterned on the
style of those cases sold to preserve com
muters' railroad tickets.
Of course it need not be mentioned here
that nothing delights a child so much as a
pretty penwiper. The respect which one
youngster feels for another owning a hand
some penwiper is something that words
cannot measure. A stone upon which the
pencil may be sharpened, a tiny toilet case
containing a miniature mirror, a piece of
soap, a washcloth, toothbrush and comb
and a piece of pumice stone to remove ink
stains should be provided for neat little
girls who take their lunch to school with
them. Lunch boxes lined with tin foil will
keep food fresh and nice. The napkin about
the food keeps it from coming in contact
with the foil.
Back to Pinafores.
Although the custom of wearing aprons
to school has gone out in America, it is
one that cannot be too highly commended
for little girls. English children are al
ways wearers of pinafores in the nursery
and in the school room.
Mothers should be considerate enough of
the teacher to see that the children are
sent to school with shoes neatly shod with
rubber. This will assure a saving, for the
rubber-soled shoes will wear twice as long
as the ordinary sort. The application of
rubber will save the child many a cold on
wet days when he or she is caught out
without overshoes, and will obviate that
shufHing and thumping which arise in
every school room when the children move
New Patterns in Muslins.
The muslins this year are delightful
Each season they seem to get more and
more attractive. The most popular are
still of French design or pin-spotted.
A few Japanese patterns have made their
appearance, but they are inclined to be
large, and must therefore be treated with
Care of the Baby's Hair.
Every morning after baby's hair has been
washed and well brushed do not leave it
hlce and smooth and tidy, but-with the tips
of the fingers rub the head all over very
eently with a short circular motion from
rUcht to left. This causes the roots of the
hair to twist, and curly hair will be the
Substitute for Coffee.
An excellent substitute for coffee will be
found in the following: Peel a parsnip, then
cut up in small slices and bake in a slow
oven until It is "dark brown. Then grind
up in the same way as coffee berries and
make in the usual way.
1V1 assisted by Cuticura Ointment, for preserving,
purifying, and beautifying the skin, for cleansing
the scalp of crusts, scales, and dandruff, and the stopping
of falling hair, for softening, whitening, and soothing red,
rough, and sore hands, for baby rashes, itchings, and
chafings, in the form of baths for annoying irritations and
inflammations, or too free or offensive perspiration, in the
form, of washes for ulcerative weaknesses, and many
sanative, antiseptic purposes which readily suggest them
selves to women and mothers, and for all the purposes of
the toilet, bath, and nursery. No amount of persuasion
can induce those who have once used these great skin
purifiers and beautifiers to use any others. CUTICURA
SOAP combines delicate emollient properties derived from
CUTICURA, the great skin cure, with the purest of
cleansing ingredients and the most refreshing of flower
odours. No other medicated soap ever compounded is to
be compared with it for preserving, purifying, and beauti
fying the skin, scalp, hair, and hands. No other foreign
or domestic toilet soap, however expensive, is to be com
pared with it for all the purposes of the toilet, bath, and
nursery. Thus it combines in ONE SOAP at ONE
PRICE, the BEST skin and complexion soap, and the
BEST toilet and baby soap in the world. t\
Complete External and Internal Treatment for every humour.
Consisting of CuncrRA Soap, to cleanse the skin of crust* ana
scales ana soften the thickened cuticle; Cutictra Ointment, to
instantly allay itching, inflammation, and irritation, and soothe
and heal; and CrncuRA Resolvent, to cool and cleanse the
fHP CBT blood. A Single Set is often sufficient to cure the most tortur
ing OKI disfiguring, itching, burning, and scaly skin, scalp, and blood
humours, with loss of hair, when all else fails. Sold throughout the world. British
Depot: F.Newbery & Sons, 27 and 28, Charterhouse Sq., London, E. C. Pott eh Dura
Ain> Chemical Corporation, Sole Props.. Boston, U. 8. A.
Plant Suitable ThinK* la Appropriate
Places?Give a Lawn First Place.
Written for The Evening Star.
One fine tree or shrub, growing where na
ture might have planted It, Is worth a
dozen crowded and ill-placed specimens.
The golden rule of horticulture is, "Never
plant anything without an appropriate
place for it." Never plant anything that
will attain ultimate large size where it will
not have room to expand, or where its size
will be objectionable when grown.
Vines for pillars and walls, shrubs for
screens and backgrounds, trees for needed
tween a dwelling house and the street? <
They shut off every vista or point of view
from those within and hide all beauty from ;
the passerby. Or could anything be more ;
abominable than a conspicuously artificial
rockery built in the middle of a green lawn?
It is about as appropriate there as an In
dian wigwam would be.
The first consideration is not tree or
shrub or plant, but a smooth expanse oft
green lawn. The grassy lawn is the out
side garment of our home. The trees,
shrubs, vines and flowers are the trim
mings and ornaments. Naturally, the lat
ter should not be used to excess. The lawn
is the vantage ground from which the flow-;
ers and shrubbery growth stand out in full
relief. Keep the grass therefore low,
smooth and velvety. Grow a world of flow*:
The box-plaited wai?t of this light tan nun'* Toiling to trimmed with tee* appllqtie.
With baby velvet ribbtn of black. Shirred white chiffon Teat with roaettea of white narrow
vet ribbon. Skirt Is box-plnited and stitched through the renter.
. 11
shade, beds of flowers bordering wains and
drives, ail are pleasing becau.se appropriate
and natural. On the contrary, could ary
ers If you want them, but do not scatta*!
them promiscuously here, there and every* J
where over the grass plot. In the yard, M
thing be in worse taste than thick rows of in the house, let there be a place for
evergreen, such as we sometimes see be- i thing, and everything in Its place. ./

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