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Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, March 22, 1902, Image 20

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Bmn-UI Corresponded* of The Kvenln* Star.
PARIS, March 8, l'?2.
N,,t i^ss Interesting than spring gowns
Is the subject of spring lingerie; one of
theso influences the character of the
other. Until a woman knows just how
fc-r new skirt is to hang she cannot be
assured of what to select in the way of
petticoats.
Happily the spring anJ summer skirt has
been authoritatively defined, and the inspec
tion of ??jupes." as the French call petti
coats. may go merrily on.
A large and handsome assortment of such
lingeries w ill he imperative during the com
ing season for any woman who aspires to
be well dressed. Tills is partly due to the
projected p >pularity of diaphanous stuffs
and partly to the great vogue of wash ma
terials for underskirts. Silk and moreen
are practically relegated to obscurity. In
place of them white lawn and cambric
bkirts elaborately trimmed with lace are
shown in all the great shops.
Ttie st\le of a gown is so greatlj influ
enced bv the lingerie that at least one of
the great modistes during the present de
mand f<>r eel-like garments endeavored to
promote the success of a princess under
garment. including a petticoat and a cornet
cover or a camisole in one piece.
1 was shown a model of this the other
dav when 1 dropped into a shop to look over
the latest spring fabrics, the petticoat
was what ma-lame called the princess, and
there was nothing about the waist to de
tract its smoothness. A dart anu -
era! narrow plaits mold the waist to
shape. Cut low about the neck and edged
with a ruching of lace, the shoulder straps
of ribbon give a touch of daintiness to the
bodice. The flounce of the skirt, shaped in
graduated length from front to back, is
also headed with a lace ruching. 1* me
white lawn batiste was the material se
lected for the model.
Divided Skirts Again.
Another modiste, a maker of tailored t,>n
tnents, recommends the modified divided
petticoat because it permits a graceful car
riage since its folds will not impede the
|iB.ire In walking. One of the models of
th\s skirt was of the new pompadour silk
plentifully flowered with pale blue and
trimmed below with two deep flounces of
frosty lace. The skirt was cut in eight
pieces two for the front, two for the sides,
two f-.r the back and two small circular
sections t.. form the yoke in front. Nain
sook surah, lawn or batiste appear to ex
celleut advantage in this divided sk.rt, al
though it is only fair to warn those who
think of adopting it that it IIs V?
cause manv difficulties for the laundress
who is compelled to iron it. White si k.
which requires no ironing, is the most ae
siraMe stuff for a petticoat of this type.
cambric skirts trimmed with \andyked
flounces headed with bands of insertion anil
orn imental boniers wrought from the same
insertion are pretty. Cambric trimmed with
a deep tucked flounce garnished with lace
Miiil insertion is another variety <>t the wash
skirt The handsomest of the cambric pet
ti, oais shows a flounce comprising half its
depth and composed of vertical insettings
Uaped Insertions alternated with tucked
sections of cambric Another design shows
a skirt ornamented with a narrow \ an
dvked flounce of cambric and lace headed
bv a wide band consisting of diagonal strips
of lace and cambric tuckings. Lace flounces
are exploited on high-priced lingerie. Nar
row. deep and medium-sized flounces are
utilized on the same skirt. A novelty in
troduced is the use of a band of Insertion
bet ween each flounce, a marked space being
allowed to intervene.
Laces and Ribbons.
Swiss embroideries and Valenciennes and
torchon laces are* the most admired trim
mings for underskirts. When ribbons are
applied in any shape the washable satin
quality is preferred.
The camisoles combined with these white
petticoats match in pattern the trimming
upon the skirts R.ichings applied to the
bust give a flare to flat-chested figures,
while a bolero edged with a frill and cov
ered with an inserted pattern in lace is re
garded as the most effective finish for a
thin figure. , , .
Petticoats of the non-washable type are
made of taffetas, surah, brocades, glace
K.lk moreen, mercerized sateen and black
mohair The silk and cotton skirts are
trimmed according to taste, the simpler
trades b<-ing adorned only with three or
four narrow flounces or a deep, plaited
flounce finished off with a narrow, ruffled
one A stiff cording about the knees pre
serves the shape of the cheaper skirts.
Kvery well-dressed woman should own at
least one silk skirt. Resides this, she ought
to have a moreen one for ordinary wear,
and several of the washable sort for ?>est
towns and wash frocks are advisable. It
is better to economize In some other way
than to endeavor to do so with petticoats.
The bcautv of the French woman's toilet is
that it is Just as dainty and complete un
derneath as it is outside.
The Open Mesh Weaves.
Open mesh fabrics are among the pret
tiest of the season's offerings. A wool
canvas in silver gray made up over gray
taffeta is one of the handsomest of the
spring model gowns. It is very simple in
construction, the waist with the dip in
The Shepherdess Style for Easter.
front, which is characteristic of the season,
having no other decorations than those af
forded by some appliques of gray silk and
smartly stitched seams. The skirt is com
pleted with a circular graduated flounce
finished above and below with half a dozen
narrow plaits. The seams of the skirt are
stitched, and a girdle consisting of plaited
silk is shaped to the figure Just below the
waist line. A short, round yoke of lace
over silk falls from the lace and the silk
Collar at the throat. The sleeves are quite
plain except for the appliqued design of
silk which matches the pattern upon the
bodice. A narrow, pointed cuff affords the
finish at the wrist.
The popularity of ruffles has Ud dress
makers to devise new "ways of using them.
One of the innovations is the placing of
them upon the skirt as far apart as space
and good taste will allow. On a recently
designed evening frock of fine meshed
brussels net three narrow frills occupied
two-thirds of the depth of the skirt, owing
to the manner in which they were applied?
one and a half times the depth of each frill
being allowed between them. The skirt
was made with a yoke of Italian laCe em
broidered in silver, the lace being set into
the bodice above the waist line to suggest
AN EASTER LACE GOWN.
a ceinture. while a draped fichu of mous
seliue ?le soie was'arranged above a shoul
der ruffle of the net. The sleeves, reaching
not quite to the elbow, were completed by
narrow frills embroidered in sliver.
Stitched Scrolls.
The sameness of effect imparted by lace
trimmings is varied by the use of stitch
ings put on spring gowns in scrolled or
straight lines. These may be adopted even
with filmy evening dresses, as they impart
a fetching aspect to almost any frock at
the slightest expense for trimmings. With
the new pompadour silks this decoration is
seeu to particular advantage, the bands be
ing of a shade to match some touch of
color in the flowers.
White cloth gowns are to be among the
spring's most cherished types. For sev
eral seasons the white cloth frock has
been favored, but for the spring and sum
mer of lt>02 it will have a more decided
following. White may be renovated so
thoroughly and so easily?a little benzine
applied with a sponge will remove finger
marks and the lighter stains?and looks so
much better than a colored dress when it
is returned from the cleaner's hands that
many women who have hitherto rejected
white cloth costumes on the score of
economy are discovering their mistake.
Dull other tints of lace and cloth are
utilized in decorating some of the most up
to-date white frocks. One of broadcloth
made with a long, deep Louis XV coat was
| strapped with stitched bands of ocher
' cloth, which covered darts and seams, al
; lowing the white fabric to form loose box
! plaits below the waist. A crossed girdle
; >>f velvet was drawn from underneath the
j impression of a short waistcoat. Over the
shoulders fell a Vandyke collar of chjth
edged with lace motifs.
Vandyke Lace Cuffs.
The sleeves were very full ones of the
bishop order, and were covered a.1 the
wrists by pointed Vandyke cuffs of lace.
A lace scarf knotted about the throat
dropped daintily over the coat and formed
two lines ot flowing white reaching almost
to the skirt. The large carved ivory but
tons gave a touch of color to the jacket;
otherwise, save for the lines of ocher
stitching, the costume was of spotless
white.
White cloth indoor gowj^s as well as
gowns for street wear are made as simply
as art can devise. White silks, lawns and
mulls also follow this rule, making a
striking contrast to the richly decorated
white frocks of last year. Plaitings, foils
and st'tchings have taken the place of lace.
CATHERINE TALBOT.
Pure Air at Home.
Home-made pine air, equally as benefi
cial for persons with lung or throat
trouble as the genuine product, has been
introduced by an Ingenious inventor. His
object was to bring the balm exhaling pine
woods to the patient when It was Impossi
ble to take the patient to the woods. In
this lie seems to have succeeded. He has
Invented an apparatus that acts on the
principle of a heating furnace. Inside the
furnace layers of pine wood are alternated
with layers of a slow-burning material.
When the fire is introduced and the furnace
closed, the mass smolders for weeks.
The vapors emanating from the burning
pine are caught in a tank, cleansed thor
oughly. and the purified vapor is conducted
through pipes to rooms all over the build
ing.
The vapor is said to have an invigorating
effect on those who inhale it and seems to
have all the qualities of the air from the
pine forest.
In purifying the vapor a liquid is ob
tained which is said to have a very heal
ing effect when applied to bruises and sores.
Novel Methods of Cooking Eggs.
It is only the stupid cook who Imagines
that boiled, baked, poached, scrambled and
fried eggs, together with an occasional
omelet, represent the entire culinary possi
bilities of this nutritious food. There are a
hundred novel and delicious ways of serv- .
ing eggs. Here are several suggestions suf
ficiently unique to be interesting:
Egg Flip?Take hillt a cup of milk, half
a cup of barley water (made from prepared
barley and strained), two or three pieces of
loaf sugar. Boll and pour on a well-beaten
new-laid egg, beating all the time. Put a
tablespoonful of brandy into a basin and
peur the mixture on It, still beating it. This
will be found a ifiost nutritious meal for a
delicate invalid.
Eggs a la Sultane?Beat together th?
olive oil and a full dessert spoonful of any
good chutney to taste and pour this when
well mixed on to a fireproof dish. Break
four eggs, on^ at a time,.very carefully on
to the sauce and place the dish in a moder
ate oven till the eggs are set. Serve Very
hot. ,
Egg rissoles and tomato sauce are ex
ceedingly good.?-Boil six eggs tlll'very hard.
Then throw theip into cold water and re
move the shells. Takeout the yolks and place
them in a mortar. Add to them two ounces
of breadcrumbs which have been previously
soaked in milk, a teasponnful of fine minced
onion, a teaspoonfu! of minced parsley, pep
per and salt to taste and one ounce of but
ter. Pound all together until they be
come a stiff paste. Then add the whites of
the eggs chopped small and mix thorough
ly. Bind with the yolk of a well-beaten
egg. Shape into rissoles, dip in egg and
breadcrumbs and fry in boiling fat till of a
light golden brown hue. Take out quickly.
Drain carefully on clean kitchen paper,
dish up on squares of crisply fried bread
or buttered toast, pour a little tomato sauce
round the base and serve at once. Do not
attempt to fry too many at once, or the
i fat will be chilled and the rissoles spoiled
in consequence. Time for cooking and
preparation is from thirty-five to forty
minutes.
Modes in Coats.
The Russian bolero is happily still with
| us and lik?>ly to remain for the present;
| but, contrary to last se;ison's decree, it is
being supplemented in many instances with
little basques, the smartest of which are
those starting from the hips to the back,
and even short coattails, thus bringing it
nearer to the original garment from which
it takes its name, at the same time reveal
ing the trend of Dame Fashion's affections
I toward a longer coat.
In spite of the dead set which women of
short stature are making against it the
advent of the tight-fitting three-quarter
coat is perceptible on all sides. Whether its
reign will be a long one or whether popular
prejudice will evict it early in its career
is still in "the lap of the gods," but at
present it threatens to reign supreme.
In some instances a deep basque is seam
ed on to the waist line and put in in full
English Amazon and Easter Black Hat.
plaits stitched securely down half way,
but in spite of the undeniable smartness
of this style it is one which requires an
exceptionally good figure to carry it off.
Velvet, of a deeper shade than the ma
terial, and braid are both much used as
trimmings, and there is a tendency with
some dressmakers to outline the coat with
a band of one or the other in place of pip
ing. Other welcome innovations ate the
silk cords twisted or knotted and the em
broidered silk buttons of the late seventies.
New Tints of the Moment. ?
Red tones are conspicuous in the win
dows, but comparatively few smart women
affect this color, and it is more generally
worn by young girls and children. Every
effort is made to revive green as a fashionr
able color, but very little will be worn in
cloth and woolen fabrics, although it is
accepted to some extent for evening gowns.
A delicate tint of lettuce green or lily leaf,
as it is also termed, is too attractive to be
overlooked, and it is extremely smart in
combination with a bright dahlia or psmna
violet tint. Both the pink and the red coral
tones are fashionable, and a very greenish
turquoise is employed as a relief coloring
to violet and mulberry hues.
A Word on Oloves.
It you have not a small hand, do not
wear white gloves, however fashionable
they may be. Pale gray or cream kid gloves
are more becoming and are equally well
worn in thg evening. With black you may
even wear black for an evening, and noth
ing is more becoming than a plain black
Swedish kid glove. It may also be worn on
even the most dressy occasions.
A millinery novelty Is a wreath of mag
nolia blossoms in alternate black and white,
with slightly decayed leaves.
Fixing Up Furniture and
China Fractures.
?ft U
I EASY WAY FOR IT
A
RECIPES FOR MAKING GLASS
ADHERE.
V
How Two Women Tried and Succeeded
With Household Break
downs.
I
Writto'i for The Evening Star.
Preparatory to beginning the spring
cleaning the housekeeper surveyed the
year's breakages with despair. The china
and glass ware had been hustled away
into the hall closet, where It stood on
shelves drearily overlooking an array of
damaged chairs and tables.
"I suppose," said she, "all these will
have to be sent to the attic, although it
does seem a shame that they should be
thrown away; some of them only slightly
injured, too, and all of them so useful! I
Can't think how we can afford to replace
them just at present."
"Yes'm," assented Mary Jane, the maiu
Of all work, exhibiting only a stolid inter
est in this wreckage, which she knew she
had been largely instrumental In accumu
lating.
"Mend It," suggested a lady living next
door who happened to be coming In the hall
door with the neighborly object of request
ing a loan of the last month's magazines.
"Do you suppose," the troubled house
wife queried~-"do you suppose it's worth
while?''
"Dear me. yes; anything Is worth while
if you will only look at it in the proper
light," the caller declared. "Why, I've
fixed up china that was smashed into frag
ments. And perhaps," peeping into the
junk closet, "It may make Mary Jane more
careful If she has to help put this Into
shape agnin. It was an excellent idea to
store it away here. I always have my
pantry reserved for such flotsam and jet
sam."
Mary Jane tossed her head haugfitilv and
murmured something hinting that she ever
exercised a tireless vigilance in preserving
all that passed through her hands. No
body paid any attention to her, while the
neighbor went on:
"I'll tell you what to do: Carry this stuff
down to the la.undry this afternoon, and if
you will lend men the last number of The
Bon Ton magazine I'll come in later and
give you the benefit of my advice. I can't
rest, though, until I finish the last install
ment of that lovely psychological serlaJ,
"To Spank or Not to S[>auk; the Dilemma
of the Duchess Jane."
A Forlorn Looking Row.
That afterhoon, when the next door
neighbor had whetted her curiosity with
the assurance that the Duchess Jane, care
ful mother, advocated spanking by proxy,
*he came in to look over the furniture
and china. The former stood along the
wall in a pitiful row, and the latter was
forlornly ranged on the top of the station
ary washtub covers.
"We'd better begin with the china." the
neighbor advised, assuming at once the
attitude of a great general directing while
others do the work. "Mary Jane must
faithfully wksh the china, taking the
greatest caro that she scales off none of
the broken edges. I think shed better let
the pieces soak for awhile in warm water
and afterward place them in soapy water
which contains a strong solution of soda;
then brush the sharp, broken edg?s with a
stiff, soapy brush. After that she must
rinse them in clear water and allow them
to dry thoroughly near the fire or in the
. sun."
While the broken ware was drying the
cement was made.
"If we mix it ourselves it will cost so
much less," the thrifty neighbor advised.
The recipe called for two drams of isin- J
glass to be left in water until it was soft.
It was then placed In a pot, which was put
in a saucepan of water and held over the
fire till the isinglass was quite melted.
One dram of powdered gum mastic was
dissolved in a little alcohol; the latter was
added in small quantities until the gum
was of the consistency of cream. A dram
of powdered gum ammoniacum was added
to the mastic, and the whole was strained
through muslin. This was to be added in
drops to the isinglass, stirring well all the
time, until it became thin, like mtlk and
water.
Mends China and Glass.
This mixture served for mending both
china and glass. It was applied to the
edges of the broken ware while the pieces
were still warm from the fire. Only enough
cement was put on the china to secure It
in place, and when the plate or vase was
mended it was supported so that the frag
ment could not fall off. Elastic bands,
bandages of twine or linen or supports con
sisting of several books laid to hold them
in place were devices for securing the
broken sections until they had dried. The
rehabilitation of china broken into several
pieces was the work of several days, for
only one bit could be added to the main
portion at a time. Each day another piece
would be put on, until all had dried in
place.
Broken furniture received attention after
the china and glass. To put it together a
glue pot was improvised. It was only an
empty jam pot placed in a pan of boiling
water. Glue, be It known, may not be sub
jected to the direct heat from a fire for
fear of burning. The glue was a delicate,
amber colored substance of the best qual
ity, for the supervisor of the mending said
that the poorer and cheaper kinds were too
evil smelling to be tolerated. Each cake of
the glue was wrapped in a cake of muslin
and then powdered with a hammer before
it was sifted Into the inner pot. It waa
then covered with water and the inner pot
filled with boiling water to dissolve It. The
glue was kept at an even temperature over
a gas fire until the mending was done. The
surfaces of the wood to be united were first
cleaned, and when the glue was sufficiently
dissolved and the experienced eye of the
lady from next door had discovered that
the mixture was neither too thick nor too
thin the broken parts of the furniture were
brushed over with glue and pressed togeth
er. In order that they might not come
apart while drying they were held firmly In
place by supports or bandages.
Different Touch for These.
Broken chair back's and broken chair and
table legs requjred different treatment. The
chair leg was bandaged or chair was laid
on its back so that the floor would sup
port the broken part.
? The mending experiment was a success
because the neighbor had learned by experi
ence some of Ihe difficulties that beset the
inexperienced^' Among these is the tise of
glue which is too thin or too old. Every
layer of old Tglue' vsas carefully scraped
away so that.'the OfW coating might be put
on n*xt to the grain. Small splinters were
removed with a sharp knife. With a saw,
a plane, a clawhtunmer, a quarter inch
chisel and a glue pot, the mending outfit
was complete.*1 >s
In a day or two, when the furniture had
dried, the pieces were gone over with pol
> ish or touched up with varnish or stains,
according to needs.
Even the Old Tins.
Some pieces of leaky tin and granite ware
had been stowed away, and the sugges
tion was made that with a piece of solder
these could be once more made serviceable.
A cheap soldering Iron, & file, an old knife
and some emery paper comprised the out
fit for this work. Each piece to be soldered
was washed and allowed to become perfect
ly dry. The space about the leak was then
rubbed with emery paper and the knife
until it waa^right. The solder waa then
applied, and when the hole was filled the
rough parts were smoothed away.
When the menders had spent two or three
afternoons at their work, they possessed a
collection of mended china, furniture and
glass and tinware that represented many
dollars of value.
POISE Ofc HIGH HEELS.
How to Minimize Injury Arising From
Fashion's Decree.
From the Philadelphia Times.
Muscles well developed and vitality at its
best are needed td sustain the fashionable
poise of today with the easy grace that
conn's the accomplishment without effort.
Fashion decrees high heels and a forward
bend at the hips in walking. If you must
bow to fashion, do so with every precaution
for health and comfort. I do not advocate
high heels; yet there are exercises to
strengthen the ankles and muscles of the
feet and legs, thereby, alleviating the gen
eral injury of high heels. The first requi
site is a shoe of such shape that you may
walk or stand on the balls of your feet
without pressure on the heels; for to walk
gracefully on high heels, you must be inde
pendent of the heel. The exercises necessary
to attain these results are: In the house
practice walking on the toes, barefoot,
dance, jump, run?but keep the heels high
off the floor. Relax the muscles frequently,
and if too weak to sustain you any length
of time you will have to practice raising
the heels, with the knees unbent, anil let
ting them down at two-second intervals,
until you have strengthened the muscles on
the back and lower part of the legs and the
muscle's of the feet.
When able to stand on the ball and toes
of either foot, extend the other straight out
in front of you, to the side, and behind
you, without losing your balance. You may
be sure of your ability to handle gracefully
anything in the way of heels. I^et the heels
touch the ground in walking, but do not
bear you weight on them. To get the right
poise and sustain it easily you should have
good control of the abdominal muscles. A
simple exercise for that purpose is to inhale
deeply, then draw the abdomen in strongly,
forcing the chest up and out. Practice this
movement until you finally are able to
sustain the chest in proper position continu
ously. and to keep the stomach from pro
truding even while breathing easily and
walking briskly. In practicing the move
ment do not retain the breath too long. If
the chest does not come up easily place the
thumbs under the arms and inhale strongly
as you circle the elbows up, back and down.
Exhale as you finish, but do not drop the
chest. If the muscles are well developed,
with vitality at its best, Fashion's decrees
can have no terrors.
Tea Gowns. .
There is one garment which all women
are feeling strongly about at the moment,
and that is the really ideal tea or lounge
gown. There is nothing so delicious after
a day's hard exercise as to get quickly in
to a garment in whieh one feels one's best.
The contrast between the hard lines of
a tailor-made and the beautiful lights and
shades of a tea gown appeals to every wo
man with the true sense of beauty.
Velveteen is an excellent material for a
tea gown for the economical. Liberty vel
veteen in soft shades really hangs better
than velvet, and remember, a tea gown to
be successful must "hang." Nothing is
more lovely than the new tones of cerise
and tomato, purples and grajs and pale
greens.
Very effective are the Japanese siiks
turned back with revers of contrasting
colors. For extra warmth a quilt lining
can be added. Another inexpensive fabric
is white cashmere, interlined with nun's
veiling and prettily trimmed with lace and
hanging stoles of the .silk and a girdle of
gold or embroidery.
The tea gown admits of many possibili
ties, but it must always be draped by a
master hand. Altogether it can he a mys
terious picture evening frock of glorious
crepe de chine, oriental lace, chiffon and
everything that the luxury-loving nature of
the woman of fashion desires.
For the Economical Woman.
Many women who dress smartly and go
out a good deal have very little use for
actual evening gowns pf the ordinary de
collete type, but manage with blouses of
the elaborate transparent kind and skirts
of similar coloring. These are smart enough
for dinners at restaurants and for the
average invitation dinner or for theaters
and concerts, and even with moderate pin
money one or two garments of this descrip
tion cannot be termed extravagant, as they
are quite suitable for smart summer wear.
The old time contemptuous allusions to
"ready-made" skirts no longer have weight,
since our best houses have produced skirts
made in their own work rooms from the
newest models. When of net. lace, crepe de
chine and other soft textures and the cor
rect length and waist measures are ob
tained, the skirt is generally a good tit when
worn over a well-cut slip, and every smart
woman is certain to have two or three of
these in her wardrobe.
The very inexpensive skirts are not ad
visable either In black or white, but a good
black skirt can be bought for from $10 to
$20, and this will bear daylijrht. The
amount allowed for the bodiee is usually
sufficient for long sleeves as well as thu
low bodice, and if made with tiny sleeves
and a low neck long sleeves can be put in
for the summer and the neck filled in with
a lace yoke.
The long sleeves can be put into a silk
slip quite tight fitting and the material
cut away from the low bodice will form
vest fronts, with a high yoke and collar
band of lace a jour, and over all a smart
finish could be obtained with a bolero of
lace or embroidered net. Where there is
not much use for the real evening gown
it Is wise to plan out the summer bodice
when buying the skirt and avoid such as
will give the impression of a renovated
evening gown.
Made a Difference. 4
From titm.
She?"I can't possibly get my gown for
less than 9175, dear."
He?"But there's Mrs. Rounder. I'll bet
she doesn't pay any such price."
"But her social position Is so much more
secure than ours."
STYLESJ_ VOGUE
Hair Will Be Worn Low on
the Neck.
SUITS NEW HATS
GAINSBOROUGH RINGLETS AND
LADY TEAZEL CURLS.
Jeweled and Chenille Nets Are Reviv
ed for the Ad
vanced.
Written for Tin* Krenlng Star.
The fashion of dressing the hair well at
the back and evt-n low on the nape has
come in to stay, and in consequence nine
tenths of the women are studying as to
how much false hair is needed to achieve
the prevailing mode.
A couple of lessons at the hairdresser's
will serve to teach any ordinarily intelli
gent woman how to do unaided at least
two or three of the new twists, and with
this arrangement how to give the head the
air of compact neatness upon which every
American woman insists. The importance
of knowing how to comb your hair in a
I good rtar coil or height is made impressive
by the spring hats. All the shapes are cut.
bent and trimmed to harmonize with the
hair when dressed low. and the woman who
says she won't put her hair down is grand
ly disciplined when she finds that her new
hat won't sit on so long as her hair la
pinned up.
Gainsborough Ringlets.
A big, three roll, or a big winged eight is
the most satisfactory arrangement the coif
feurs have yet arrived at. For the morn
MUSCAT AIBE HAS CHOICEST OF EASTEB, IDEAS.
T the roll is unadorned, save for occa
s nal adornm?nt pins; with afternoon dress
clusters cf little corkscrew curls are tucked
in behind the ears, to make way, in the
evening, before long Gainsborough ringlets
that hang upon the bare shoulders.
When two extremely long curls are drawn
forward on either side of the neck they are
appropriately ealitd I^ady Teazels, and not
infrequently the hair is given a dash of
powder to accentuate the eighteenth cen
tury quality of tti's style.
It was almost inevitable, with the low ar
rangement of the hair and the waterfalls
of curls, that the nets of 184JO and there
abouts should come back to favor. Women
first began to wear them as a joke, but
now they have accepted them In earnest,
and invisible nets, nets of silk, with chen
ille spots, and nets of beads, are multiply
ing with a mas In g rapidity. A net, for two
sound reasons, is almost necessary with
the new coiffure. It is required to keep the
bulky mass of back hair taut and neat,
and when ? paucity of natural cheveture
Mnp a quantity of fslse braids and
switches Into requisition the net assists in
holding these securely in place.
The virtues or a net were well illustrat
A
NEW STYLES FOR DRESSING THE HAIR LOW ON THE NECK.
i 9nly the other day in a street car,
which was crowded with well-drcsstvl w >
men, nearly all of whom were coiffured
and netted in the latest fashion. Wh.-n
one smart damsel left her corner seat and
tripped out. nobody noticed in the hustie
that she had on no net, and that tier back
hair looked curiously blank and uniinishcd.
No sooner had she left than a strap hold
er hurried to secure the cozy corner, but
with a cry of horror she drew back; there
in the vacant seat lay what seemed to b?- .1
dusky serpent coiled r? ady to strike. Tim
other women shrieked in sympathy, then
the conduetor looked in and courageously
investigated the trouble. With a brutal
masculine grin he plu< k? d from the scat,
not a serpent, hut a very expensive, very
long and very silky switch of dark brown
hair, which had slipped its moorings in thn
head of the late occupant of that seat, and
gliding down her ha< k had fallen Into ser
pentine coils behind her.
The moral of this harrowing st,>ry is,
wear a net when you are obliged to us.?
false hair, and then no such accidents can
happen.
Hair Scarfs.
Some women, who don't wear jeweled or
chenille nets in the evening, have found
almost as much comfort in the use ()f fm
ciful hair scarfs. These are made of chif
fon. silk muslin, liberty tissue, oriental
gauze, etc., twisted with ropes of pearls,
or caught to the hair behind with jewel, d
clasps, and then brought forward and the
ends fastened just above either tempi*
with begemmed brooches. The effect is
decidedly coquettish, and the scarf is al
ways so arranged that it serves as a rein
forcement to any superimposed puffs or
braids.
Some of the most prominent hairdressers
are actively pushing the use of pearl Juliet
nets. These are round or diamond shaped.
They tit on the crown of the head. and. i 11
some cases, a point of the net will come
forward to the forehead and there branch
up In the form of pearl butterfly wings.
A great many women have looked askance
at the tiny, three-cornered bead and che
nille nets that are to be pinned directly on
the top of the head. They are to be worn
by day. and their utility is not far to seek.
Since all the bulk of the hair has been
drawn down to the back of the head th re
is literally nothing to which the hat crown
can be pinned, in order to hold It tlrm. If,
however, a tiny net is first made fast t >
the top of the head and the hatpins th? n
caught through its meshes a gale of wind
will be required to unseat the pretty pl< ?
of millinery or knock it even askew. If
one's hat Is removed after a breezy walk
no unsightly device for holding it on th- n
appears, for the little pearl or bead-strung
caps are distinctly ornamental and in som?*
cases most becoming.
MIL.LIOENT ARROW PC) I NT.
At the Literary Reunion.
From the Chicago Tribune.
"Miss Flyppe," said the hostess, "permit
me to present Mr. Ilogg, author of those
clever lines on 'An Arctic Courtship,' whicii
appeared In the Gulf Stream Magazine last
month."
"1 am glad to meet you, Mr. Hogg." said
the young woman. "Pardon the question,
but is that your real name?"
"Certainly," he teplied, bristling up. "Did
you think it was niy pen name?"
A NEW DISCOVERY
MADE BY A MAN IN ALLEGHENY,
PENNSYLVANIA
George C. Eldridge Finds Something Which
Many Consider to Be Ketter Titan
Gold?His Statement.
There is much talk In the town "f Allegheny,
Pa., over the discovery made l>y Mr. George ?'.
Eldridge of fhnt place. After a long search to*
has found something better than gold. In a recent
Interview he says:
"Yes, I have made what I consider to lie an im
portant discovery. To tell you alnnit it 1 mu.st
start at the beginning.
"That was a number of years ago," he eon tinned.
"The nature of my work forced me to very
Irregular with my meals, and that, together with
a general misuse of my stomach, brought on ncr
I ?us dyspepsia. My trouble commenced with Moat
ing, constipation, and this was accompanied with
j pain in the hack and stomach. I suffered with
shortness of breath and palpitation of the heart,
sleeplessness and an absolutely miserable feeling
at all times. About three years ago I had an at
tack which confined me to my bed for three weeks
and times without number after that I was obliged
to give up. My kidneys also became affected and
caused me considerable trouble.
"Four different doctors attempted to cure me,
but they gave me only temporary relief. I became
utterly discouraged. Then I tried I?r. Williams'
I 'ink Pills for I'ale People. Relief came in about
a week, and at the end of four ui<>nths I was
entirely well.
"I can only say that I l?elleve I owe my life to
Dr. Williams' Pink 1111s, and can And no words
to express my thanks for what they have doue for
me. Better than gold Is but mild praise far tbem.
Everybody who knows me remarks the wonderful
change. I can eat anything now, sleep like a child
and do my work with ease. I do not need medicine
any more, although I always keep Dr. Williams'
Pink Pills for Pale People on hand."
Mr. Eldridge lives at No. 235 Carroll street, and
is but one of thousands who Always speak of Dr.
Williams' Pink Pills in the highest terms of praise.
They know whst this remedy will do. for they have
used ft. It acta directly on the blood and nerves.
This makea these pills invaluable not only for
stomach trouble, bat also for such diseases as
locomotor ataxia, partial paralysis. 8t. Titos*
dance, sciatica, neuralgia, rheumatism, nervous
headache, the after-effects of the grip, palpitation
of the heart, pals awl sallow complexions and ail
forms of weakneas either in male or femala. Or.
Williams' Pink Pills for Pale People are sold by
?11 dealers, or wUl be seat poet pa id on receipt of
price, fifty cents a bo*, or six boxes for two dollars
and flfty cents (they are never aold la bulk or by
the hundred), by addreaalag Dr. WUlUaaa Medicine
Co.. Schenectady, X. T. Be ear* to get the gen
uine; substitutes sever cared anybody.
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